2008 Tamayo Familly Vineyards J. Jaden Red Dessert Wine Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: From California’s Contra Costa County, the J. Jaden CANA is made from classic Portuguese Tinta Cão, plus Alicante Bouschet and Petite Sirah grown in Contra Costa County, California. Intensely aromatic with suggestions of dried dark fruits wrapped in malted milk balls, this is a full-bodied sweet red dessert wine with 16% alcohol. Smooth yet not cloying, it shows flavors of red and black raspberry with suggestions of brown baking spices. Long finished and frankly tasty, the wine offers sweet tannins and good acidity. Serve fairly cold, about 50F/10C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Lovely after-dinner sipper. Suggested Food Pairings: Chocolate pecan coconut pie (oh my!); flourless chocolate torte; dark chocolate truffles; chocolate macaroons; chocolate biscotti; spiced pecans with firm but mild blue cheese; dark fruit cake. Distributors: Gusto Brands $25.00 2005 J Vineyards Vintage Brut Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: When one thinks of American sparkling wines, one of the producers at the top of the pile is J, founded by Judy Jordan of the famed Jordan Winery family. The foundation of J’s sparkling wines is cool-climate Russian River Valley fruit. Medium-bodied with a pale straw color and fine, pinpoint bubbles, the wine shows yeasty aromas suggesting toasted brioche, with hints of toasted almonds and butterscotch. Fine citrus and Fuji/Braeburn apple characters with lemon-lime accents shape the mouthwatering palate, which concludes with a long, acid-structured finish. Serve at about 50F/10C in medium-sized white-wine glasses (preferably) or flutes. Suggested Food Pairings: Well-salted boiled peanuts; pork and mustard greens dumplings, soy or ponzo dipping sauce; veal or turkey meatballs with mustard tarragon sauce; shrimp salad with lemongrass; Washington State oysters with lemon (raw, roasted or steamed); taramosalata on unsalted cracker or potato chip; small chicken pot pies, Jamaican chicken patties with just a bit of curry heat, or empanadas; grilled scallops and shrimp; crab cakes; crab-stuffed flounder rolls; crab cakes with lemon aïoli. Lagniappe: To be ordered from the winery only, the J Late-Disgorged 2003. Very pale straw; full-bodied; aromas show lime notes, rich and crisp. Needs to open. Elegant, refined, long finish, great acidity. Actually better the second day. $90. Foods: French onion dip and unsalted potato chips; cream soups (she-crab soup, for instance, and even beer cheese soup); shrimp salad with lemongrass; king crab with drawn butter and lemon; steamed Chinese dumplings with soy or ponzu sauce; chicken liver mousse on plain crackers or toasts; raw, steamed or roasted oysters with lemon; chicken wings with ginger and sesame; crab cakes; crab-stuffed flounder rolls. Distributors: National Distributing Co. $50.00 2012 Haak Vineyards & Winery Dry Blanc du Bois Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: This wine represents your New Year’s resolution for 2013: To explore new varieties and new regions. Developed by the University of Florida for that state’s viticulture and released in 1987, Blanc du Bois is named for Emile du Bois, a Frenchman involved in viticulture in the Tallahassee area in the late 19th century (for more on all this see an upcoming blog post on the subject). Located in Santa Fe, Texas, near Galveston and the Gulf of Mexico, Haak Vineyards & Winery produces a stellar example. A medium-bodied dry white wine with a medium greenish yellow straw color, the wine presents aromatics that recall Sauvignon Blanc, especially New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, with a perfume of white grapefruit (although not as aggressive as some NZ examples and lacking the classic tomato vine notes they often present). The palate picks up the white grapefruit character and adds accents of lemongrass and lime. With good acidity, moderate ph, and moderate alcohol, this is an excellent aperitif wine as it will awaken and refresh the palate. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/12C in medium-sided tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Miniature crab cakes with lemon fresh herb aïoli, herbed goat cheese; Asian dishes with seafood or chicken (but not hot); shrimp pot stickers or shumai with shrimp; cocktail potatoes stuffed with sour cream and chive; seafood-stuffed pasta with butter and herbs or salsa verde (olive oil, a little garlic and herbs); three-year-old Manchego cheese (flat awesome!). The winery also suggests honeydew melon and green salad. Distributors: From the winery (Haak Vineyards & Winery has a Georgia shipping license). $15.00 2003 Churchill Estates LBV Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Founded in 1981, this family-owned Port estate is one of the first new ones founded in 50 years. Spouses John Graham and Caroline Churchill, owners, select grapes only from Grade A vineyards in Oporto. Churchill ports are neither filtered nor refrigerated, so may require decanting as they will continue to develop in the bottle and may as a result throw off sediment. Made from traditional grapes Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca, this LBV (meaning Late Bottled Vintage) from the 2003 vintage is a full-bodied port that offers a deep, dark, purple garnet color. Aromas suggest fresh dark wild fruits, black- and elderberries, with lots of brown spices, all of which inform the flavor profile as well. Decant and serve at cool temperatures, about 55F/12-13C in small tulip-shaped glasses. The wine will keep about two weeks once opened, but don’t discard it once it begins to dim, and instead use any remaining wine to marinate dried dark fruits. Then cook them and serve them chilled with whipped vanilla cream. (Tasted open.) Suggested Food Pairings: All dark chocolate-based desserts; cocoa-dusted truffles; spiced pecans; fruit cake; pound cake; fruit bars; and perhaps my favorite: walnuts and Stilton cheese (and get a good one--it’s worth it). Distributors: Georgia Crown $25.00 2007 Huguet Cava Gran Reserva Brut Nature Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: From a bodega founded in the 18th century, this winery sits on 400 acres of rocky, chalk-laden clay soils on the hillside slopes (1400 feet) of the Alt Penedès. A blend of two classic Spanish varieties--Montonec (a/k/a Parellada), Macabeo (a/k/a Viura)--and Pinot Noir--the wine receives no dosage, and bottles are hand-riddled and dated when they are disgorged as ordered. A singularly elegant sparkling wine with tiny bubbles, it shows a very pale straw color. Aromas hit on citrus notes, from lemon to lime to some grapefruit zest, while on the palate the wine is very dry, thanks to no dosage, and with good acidity and moderate alcohol, it’s a perfect aperitif wine. In Span, often cavas are enjoyed after dinner as well as palate cleansers, and this one would work especially well in that vein. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/12C in white wine glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled or sautéed shrimp with rémoulade sauce; classic Spanish tapas, such as ensaladilla rusa (vegetables and baby shrimp bound with mayonnaise), chicken or bacalao croquetas; ikura (salmon caviar) on unsalted potato chips; sushi or sashimi; grilled scallops with tartar sauce; steamed pork and mustard greens dumplings with soy or ponzu sauce; sushi; chicken liver mousse; taramosalata on unsalted potato chips; chicken pot pie. Distributors: Specialty Wines $28.00 2009 Mont Marcal Brut Rosado Cava Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Made from a probably unfamiliar grape called Trepat, this brut rosado (rosé) presents a medium-deep fuchsia with blue tints. The aromas fairly burst with red fruits-- raspberry, red cherry and strawberry--that follow through on the palate, which picks up steam with some red plum and . Deep and complex, with brown spice notes added in the mid-palate, this is a cava for many purposes, from aperitif with appetizers throughout the meal. Fresh, with good fruit but not a fruit bombe, this is a wine for many palates. Serve at about 50F/10C in medium-tall tulip-shaped glasses (I like to use the Ridel rosé glass) or flutes. The 2010 vintage also has been released. Foods: Sliders; roasted sweet potato soup (Local 3), serve in demi-tasse cups for a cocktail party); cocktail-size ham biscuits; cured meats; ham salad; ham croquetas; Chinese chicken on a stick; teriyaki; salt-and-pepper chicken or shrimp; buffalo shrimp (but not wicked hot); cocktail-size Jamaican meat patties (especially curried chicken)--I get them at The Original Jamaican Restaurant on Edgewood Ave., requires 2-days‘ notice, but worth it,; Chinese peanut chicken; Chinese or Southern barbecued ribs; wings. See also the Montes Marçal Brut 2009 or 2010, composed of Xarel.lo, Macabeo and Chardonnay As one taster said: Long trumpets!! Terrific all-purpose wine, and great value. Suggested Food Pairings: Boiled, well-salted peanuts; French onion dip with unsalted potato chips; grilled shrimp with lemon; veal or turkey meatballs with mustard tarragon sauce; mashed potatoes; ginger sesame chicken wings; sushi. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $17.00 Quartz Reef Traditional Method Sparkling Wine NV (L2009) Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Austrian-born winemaker Rudi Bauer made his way around the winemaking world, including the American West Coast, before hitting on Central Otago, New Zealand, as his permanent home. He established Quartz Reef in 1996. This wine is a blend of Pinot Noir (61%) and Chardonnay (39%) from the Bendigo Estate in Central Otago (South Island). Medium-bodied with a fine, pale yellow color and nice mousse, the wine shows aromas of lime and other citrus characters. On the palate, the wine exhibits silky texture, with nice yeastiness and flavors of apple and citrus. Mouthwatering and long-finished, thanks to really good acidity, this is a classic study in balance and finesse. Pure Gold Air New Zealand Wine Awards 2012 (awarded Nov. 14, 2012). Serve at 50F/12-13C in white wine glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Cream soups with a slight hit of spice; taramosalata on unsalted potato chip or plain water cracker; veal or turkey meatballs with mustard cream tarragon sauce; chicken wings with ginger and sesame from Buford Hwy. Farmers Market (humdinger!); ikura (salmon caviar) on unsalted cracker, potato chip or blini; chicken pot pies or cocktail-size chicken-filled empanadas; grilled shrimp. Distributors: Avant Partir $29.00 2010 Adega Vale d'Algares Selection Branco Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Alvarinho and Viognier from the Tejo region of Portugal join forces to craft a full-bodied wine that exhibits a lovely greenish straw color and a good hit of oak. Beneath that oak lies substantial stone fruit character (peach, apricot) in both aromas and flavors. Each varietal contributes its portion, with Alvarinho adding its racy acidity and minerality as well as punching up the peach/apricot character while Viognier chimes in with fleshy, tropical yellow fruits (mango, papaya). Mostly aged in French oak, with 10% in stainless steel. Up front: This is not my style, but it is a good choice for people who like the substantial presence of oak in their wines, and I found this more oaky than I personally prefer. Still, it’s a good way of introducing folks with oak-favoring palates to something other than Chardonnay for the aperitif wine. Good acidity keeps the palate refreshed. Serve around 55F/12C in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Potential for near-term cellaring (4-5 years) if well stored. The oak tends to drop back a bit after the wine opens, so consider decanting about 20 minutes before serving. Suggested Food Pairings: Roasted sweet potato soup (Local 3); steamed Chinese dumplings with soy sauce; veal or turkey meatballs with mustard tarragon sauce (from Whole Foods); unsalted potato chips with French onion dip (no kidding!); chicken pot pie; chicken empanadas; chicken liver mousse on plain crackers or toasts; creamy bloomy rind cheeses (Fromager d‘Affinois, cow‘s milk, for instance). Note: The back label is mistranslated and suggests the wine with “stuffed red meat, game meat stews and ratatouille.” Ignore that and do what the Portuguese version advises: grilled fish and white meats, but I didn’t think it paired well with shellfish because of the oak. Distributors: Artisan Vines $22.00 Champagne Jacques Copinet Blanc de Blancs NV Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Family-owned and operated, this Champagne house is a relative newcomer, having been founded in 1975. Composed entirely of Chardonnay (thus, Blanc de Blancs), this “grower” Champagne assembles reserve wines from three different vintages, 1999, 2001 and 2002. Full-bodied, the wine shows an impressive greenish-gold color. Aromas evolve as the wine opens, beginning with floral characters and finally butterscotch. On the palate, striking acidity lends structure to pear/apple flavors, with yeasty/brioche accents. Minerality throughout lends additional complexity. Rich, with intense flavors, this wine defines power for Champagne. Yet, the wine also shows balance along with intensity. Very important not to serve this wine too chilled, about 55F/13C, and definitely best in white wine glasses that are tulip shaped. Suggested Food Pairings: Handles richness and assertive flavors. Rich, full-bodied creamy soups, such as lobster or crab bisque; all sorts of Asian dishes, such as salt-and-pepper squid; peanut chicken; Peking duck; crab beignets, crab cakes or crab casserole; creamy chicken dishes (classic French poulet à la crème); mild curried chicken or seafood; creamy mild cheeses (Fromager d’Affinois). Distributors: Artisan Vines $55/750 ml./$30/375 ml. $30.00 Champagne Claude Genet Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: The real deal, this Champagne Grand Cru from Chouilly is a full-bodied dry sparkling wine made entirely from Chardonnay (thus Blanc de Blancs). Showing a medium pale, slightly greenish straw color, the wine is aromatic, with citrus accents and the slightest nuance of toasted almond, the wine offers an elegant palate of restrained fruit (apple) and delicate impact. Don’t look for power in this one; it’s much more refined than it is powerful. The finish is crisp, tight and clean, and the good acidity will help it pair well with a wide variety of foods. As one fellow taster said: “It’s in the big leagues.” This is a “grower” Champagne (see above). You may pay the same money for a “big name” Champagne, but you’re better invested with one of these as the producer has more control over the grapes. Serve at 50-55F/12-13C in white wine glasses or flutes. Suggested Food Pairings: Taramosalata on unsalted potato chip; raw, steamed or roasted oysters with lemon; French onion dip and unsalted potato chips (wow!); grilled shrimp with rémoulade sauce; chicken pot pie (superior); cocktail-sized crab cakes; sesame-garlic chicken wings; creamy triple cream cheeses. Distributors: Specialty Wines $110 magnums (limited availability) $50.00 2011 Chateau Les Arroucats Cuvee Virginie Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Love Sauternes but can’t deal with their high prices? Look on the other side of the Garonne River for your answer: Ste.-Croix-du-Mont. This appellation sits nearly exactly opposite Sauternes, and grows the same grapes that make the great Château d’Yquem, namely Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Nearby appellations Barsac, Loupiac and Cadillac also produce worthy sweet wines, and are similarly hard to find in this market. While lighter bodied than many Sauternes, this example shows similar if less intense aromas of apricot and light pineapple. On the palate, clean, fresh yellow stone fruit flavors (apricot, peach, nectarine) are sweet but not syrupy. Vineyards are planted close to the river, ensuring the development of the noble rot that produces these characters. Serve chilled, about 55F/13C in small tulip-shaped glasses. These wines may be used both as aperitif wines and as dessert wines. (Tasted open.) Suggested Food Pairings: Aperitif: Foie gras sautéed and served with plain toast; chicken liver mousse; liver pâté; Desserts: simple cookie, such as langue de chat; almond or hazelnut biscotti; almond tart; creamy blue cheeses (Cambozola or Gorgonzola dolce); pound cake; lemon tart; chilled lemon soufflé. Distributors: Atlanta Beverage $13.00 Bodegas César Florido Moscatel Dorado NV Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Full-bodied and fortified, with a golden amber color, this Moscatel Dorado is from Chipiona, near Sanlúcar de Barrameda in the heart of Spain’s sherry country (southwest). The D.O. is Jerez, and this subzone is dedicated to the Moscatel grape. Grapes for this wine come from vines that are 15-50 years old. Aromatic, with a burnt sugar (caramel) character in the nose, the wine offers a complex palate of dried yellow fruits--apricot--orange peel, and brown baking spices. Sweet, with an alcohol level of 17.5%, it’s well balanced with acidity against fruit and sweetness. Easy to sip despite its alcohol level, the wine almost acts as a digestif. Lovely stuff. Serve cold, about 45-50F/8-10C in small tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Spiced pecans; rich, hard, aged cheeses; mince meat tarts; pound cake; pumpkin-based desserts, simple cookies; creamy toasted almond desserts; carrot cake; apple stack cake; Dutch apple pie. Distributors: Avant Partir $15.00 2010 Cantine Francesco Montagna Sangue di Giuda dell Oltrepo Pavese D. O. C. Review Date - 12/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Familiar and unfamiliar grapes compose this medium-bodied, low alcohol (ABV 7.5%) sparkling sweet red wine: Croatina (45%); Barbera (45%); Ughetta (5%); Uva Rara (5%). Showing a deep cherry red color and aromas of red fruits (strawberries and red currants) with a whiff of chocolate malted milk balls, the wine offers on the palate flavors of sweet red fruits and dark cherry, but also good acidity to balance the sweetness. While most will enjoy this with dessert, don’t hesitate to share it with friends who prefer sweet wines to pair with savory dishes. Store at about 45F/8C, and enjoy at 50F/10C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Savory dishes with some heat, such as Indian dishes with red meat that are not wickedly spicy hot but with some heat; Korean barbecue; deep-fried Cajun turkey. With desserts: Dark chocolate with any red fruit; chocolate pecan pie with coconut; fruit cake; pound cake; spiced pecans and creamy mild cheeses. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $13.00 2010 HandCraft Chardonnay Review Date - 11/1/2012 Score - 86 Tasting Note: This all-around crowd-pleaser is a California Chardonnay that performs well as an aperitif wine and goes well with food. Blended 86% Chardonnay, with 7% Viognier, 5% Chenin Blanc and 2% Malvasia Bianca, the wine at first blush seems to have a fair hit of oak. While most of the oak is French, 10% is American, yet it doesn’t overwhelm the fruit. The wine shows a definite medium-deep yellow golden color, and the aromas tell the story, showing both good fruit (baked apple) and some oak, along with the scent of crème brûlée. Oak and fruit (apple, pear, some citrus) are well integrated, and the fruit characters aren’t intimidated by it. Decent acidity helps add balance. More food accommodating than I initially thought would be the case. Very fine value for serving a crowd. The series also has a Pinot Noir, a Petite Sirah and a Cabernet Sauvignon, but I thought the Chardonnay showed the best. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Shrimp in garlic and unsalted butter/olive oil; crab cakes; baked crab-stuffed flounder; King crab with lemon butter for dipping; creamy; grilled, poached or sautéed scallops; shrimp and grits, grits cakes with creamed chicken; chicken salad; chicken pot pie; chicken croquetas (Spanish style). Don’t do it with oysters, however. Distributors: Georgia Crown $12.00 2009 Antoine Mouiex La Fleur Renaissance Sauternes Review Date - 11/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: What luck: A Sauternes from the highly regarded 2009 vintage. This example is just delicious, and what a value!. A blend of Semillon (70%) and Sauvignon Blanc (30%), the wine starts off in stainless steel tanks before being finished in French oak. Full-bodied, it shows a lovely greenish lemon yellow color. The aromas convey scents of dried apricots and honey, while on the palate, flavors focus on dried apricot, with notes of cardamom, honey, and nectarine. Serve at 55F/13C in small, tulip-shaped glasses. This one is new to the Atlanta market. An amazing value for this genre. Serve in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: As an aperitif with foie gras, chicken liver mousse or soufflé of roquefort. For dessert, a simple cookie, creamy blue cheese (Fourme d’Ambert), Cambozola melted with sautéed pear and cream, sweet potato tart; classic panna cotta; Dutch apple pie; dessert with toasted hazelnuts; apple stack cake, lemon tart. Distributors: Gusto Brands $30.00 2009 Domaine Pierre Sourdais Les Rosiers Chinon Review Date - 11/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Chinon is one of the appellations of the Loire Valley, that super long (1000 miles) river that runs between Nantes on the west coast and Orleans. These vines are what the French call “young vines,“ but they’re about 15 years old! As with any Chinon, this one is 100% Cabernet Franc. This medium-bodied dry red wine exhibits aromas of red and black fruits--raspberry and black currant--with notes of herb and black tea. On the palate, look for supple tannins enfolding ample fruit and brown baking spice notes. The long finish is enhanced by good fruit-acid balance. This is a wine to be drunk young, so enjoy it now, and don’t cellar. This was a great vintage in France, and elsewhere. Serve cool to emphasize the fruit, about a 58-60F/14-15C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked fresh liverwurst (Patak); sautéed chicken livers splashed with some of the wine, on toast; roast turkey, chicken or duck; roast pork loin; smoked chicken; Asian dishes especially Chinese with red meats (not too hot); barbecue; turkey thighs cooked with prunes and tomato; grilled sausages. Distributors: Gusto Brands $14.00 2007 Michalakis Estate Mantilari Review Date - 11/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: From Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek islands and the fifth largest island in the Mediterranean, Mantilari is one of the Crete’s native red wine grapes. It produces a deeply colored, inky dark, full-boded red wine whose aromas lean toward juicy black fruits, along plum and black currant characters. The same traits come into focus on the palate, adding a trace of blueberry to the big, juicy sweet fruit profile. Moderate alcohol is just 12.5%. The tannins are big but not aggressive, and indeed present a succulent juiciness that’s truly delectable. Rich, concentrated and intense, it’s a wine for lots of occasions, not just Greek Christmas (January 7, 2013). Serve at cool room temperature, about 65F/17C, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Pátés and terrines; roast turkey stuffed with ground lamb; roast duck,, pork, goose or pheasant; wild boar; furred game; stuffing with chestnuts and dried dark fruits in any bird. Distributors: Empire Distributing $20.00 2009 Ernesto Catena Siesta en el Tahuantinsuyu Malbec Review Date - 11/1/2012 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Ernesto Catena is the son of renowned winemaker Nicolás Catena. Striking out on his own, he digs deeply into the Quechua (Inca) culture of the Andes, so the word “Tahuantinsuyu” references a Quechua attempt to unify the Andean peoples. Catena has about 116 planted acres n the Uco Valley (Mendoza) at his organic Vistaflores Vineyard., sitting at 3576 feet above sea level. The grapes for this Malbec are fermented then aged in American and French oak. Aromas of coffee and vanilla with some herbal notes leap from the glass in this intense, dark, full-bodied wine with a purple/red color. On the palate, the wine exhibits solid black fruit characters, tilting toward Damson plum, and soft tannins lend support to the ample, voluptuous fruit. Good acidity enhances the super long finish. This Malbec will take your understanding of the grape to a whole new level. Yum! Cool room temperature is the best serving circumstance, and decanting the wine perhaps 20-30 minutes before serving might be a good plan. Keep the temperature around 60F/15C. This is just delicious, and if well cellared, should last another half dozen years at least. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked foods; terrines; beef-filled empanadas; grilled sweetbreads and kidneys; roast turkey with bread stuffing; grilled duck breast, lamb; grilled beef (get an Argentnian short rib, called “asado” at any carnicería) with chimichurri (minced parsley, oregano, garlic, olive oil, red wine vinegar, lime and salt); prime rib; grilled lamb steak; legumes; mild blue cheese (Cambozola, Fourme d’Ambert); dark chocolate. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $25.00 2009 Capture Wines Fleuron Cabernet Sauvignon Review Date - 11/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Alexander Valley has long been a favorite source for me for Cabernet Sauvignon. This example comes from fruit organically grown at high elevations on hillsides above the valley, elements that contribute substantially to quality, intensity, extraction, color and flavor--all the things we look for in a good, sturdy red wine. But we also want balance, and that’s what you get in this full-bodied wine, which is 77% Cabernet Sauvignon (just above the 75% limit t hat allows it still to be so called), 21% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. The aromas concentrate on red and dark fruits, from cherry to black currant, all well knit, and with a hint of oak on the nose. Oak and fruit are well balanced on the palate, along with notes of brown baking spices, and the tannins are sweet and soft. The long finish ends with a slightly oak-influenced and dried herb note, but the fruit never loses its voice. The 2010 (not tasted) now is in release and available on the winery‘s web site (capturewines.com), but 2009 is what’s in this market. Limited production: 254 cases. Serve cool, about 60F/15C, in wide, round Bordeaux glasses or large tulip-shaped Bordeaux glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst (Patak); smooth-textured liver pâtés; assorted cured meats (Pine Street Market or The Spotted Trotter); prime rib; stout-braised beef shanks over mashed potatoes; grilled duck breast seasoned with cinnamon; roast duck, goose or other feathered game; furred game (buffalo, elk); mild, creamy blue cheeses; dark chocolate. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/National Distributing Co. $40.00 2010 Quartz Reef Pinot Noir Review Date - 11/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Austrian-born Rudi Bauer did his academic work at home, but then worked harvests and with wineries all over the world before settling on New Zealand’s South Island, where he has even planted Austria’s icon grape Grüner Veltliner. Devoted to sparkling wine (see next month) and the Pinots (both Gris and Noir), Bauer produces a limited range of wines that garner international admiration. This example, from the Bendigo estate in Central Otago, shows a deep garnet red color. Initially closed, it took very little time for the wine to open, showing the classic dried herb (thyme) aromas one looks for in New Zealand Pinot Noir. You’ll never mistake this for an Oregon Pinot Noir, with its upfront cherry fruit. Instead, restrained fruit and herb are its hallmarks. The palate continues the herb character, and adds dark berries and brown spices to the profile. Tannins are soft, and although the alcohol is a relatively high 14%, the wine is smooth and the finish silky and long, ending in an explosion of spice. Serve cool, about 65F/17C, in round Burgundy glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Silky, smooth chicken liver mousse; roast and smoked chicken (especially the latter); grilled lamb, duck breast or quail; feathered and furred game; roast turkey (both white and dark meat) with sage cornbread dressing; crown roast of veal or pork; rabbit or chicken with mushrooms (ideally wild mushrooms); ragoût of mushrooms over polenta or grits; New Zealand cheddar (Whole Foods or Trader Joe’s) or brie de Meaux; dark chocolate. Distributors: Avant Partir $35.00 2009 Dominique Piron Domaine de la Chainaise Beaujolais-Villages Review Date - 11/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Beaujolais (pronounced bow-jho-lay) may well be the ideal Thanksgiving wine. It should be served cool, giving emphasis to the fruit, so it tends to please a wide range of palates. And it goes well with a wide variety of foods, including that turkey. The 2009 vintage is one of the best in France, as well as elsewhere. This Beaujolais-Villages is 100% Gamay noir but it tastes much deeper and more full-bodied than most. In fact, it nearly tastes like a cru. Oh, there’s a reason for that. A touch of two crus is blended in: Morgon, lending structure, and Régnié for roundness. This example shows a deep ruby red color, with a violet edge. Aromas focus on vibrant dark plums and brown spices. The palate presents dark fruit flavors--plums and black cherries--with round, soft tannins wrapping the whole business in a delectable experience. Please be sure to serve this slightly chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst (Patak); liver mousse; saucisson de Lyon (dried is usually available here); blackened seafood salad (Whole Foods); coq au vin made with Beaujolais; roast turkey, chicken, duck or goose; lamb cooked in Beaujolais; confit of duck; veal sweetbreads with country ham; roast ham; brie de Meaux (at room temperature); dark chocolate. Distributors: Prime $19.00 2011 Hogue Late Harvest Riesling Review Date - 11/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: This well-balanced late-harvest Riesling from Washington’s Columba Valley is a classic, and Hogue has captured the essence of the genre in its version vintage after vintage. While it will be too sweet for anyone totally devoted to dry wines, wine enthusiasts with a broader palate will find it delightful. What makes this work and not strike one like a liquefied lollipop is the acidity, which hits .75g/100ml. Then, the ph is low, 3.18, which adds to the sensation of acidity against fruit. Showing a medium pale yellow color, the wine offers aromas of quince, Asian pear apple and aromas of honey. On the palate, the fruit is crisp and clean, and the sweetness is integral to the fruit characters: apricot; lemon-lime; honey and apple. Complex, showing a hint of minerality, the wine is a fine contribution to the genre. Excellent value. Serve at 55F/13C. Could be cellared for a further 3-5 years. Suggested Food Pairings: As an aperitif with foie gras; chicken liver mousse; grilled skewered chicken livers. Also spicy Asian fare; creamy blue cheeses, such as Cambozola with pear or apple; mild curried dishes; Dutch apple pie; baked apples with cream; apple fritters. Distributors: National Distributing Co. $12.00 2011 Foris Gewurztraminer Review Date - 11/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Located in Oregon’s Illinois Valley, Foris tends some of the state’s oldest (1974) Gewürztraminer (pronounced gah-VURTS-trah-mee-ner, although you will also hear geh-vurts-TRAH-me-ner, but that’s a bit precious). The grape comes from Tramin, in northern Italy, which was originally Austria but ceded to Italy after World War I. Although most examples are off-dry, Foris prefers a dry style. Showing a medium pale yellow color, the wine offers the classic lychee nut aromas (lychee nuts and Gewürztraminer share some aroma compounds). Orange zest with some suggestion of floral notes (more orange blossom in this case than the classic rose petal), exotic spices such as nutmeg and cardamom are all shaping the aromas. On the palate, Asian pear apple, nectarine and kumquat contribute to the flavors along with some exotic spices, again cardamom. The fleshy texture, crisp, dry, long finish and mouthwatering acidity are all part of the delight. Serve in tall tulip-shaped glasses at about 50-55F/10-13C. Suggested Food Pairings: All manner of exotic flavors, but begin with roast turkey and cornbread dressing (no sage); lightly curried potato salad; for leftovers, curried turkey with toasted almonds, dried apricots and currants on brown rice; roast pork loin with apple-bread stuffing (no sage); Indian dishes with poultry and seafood, but not too hot; curried turkey or chicken salad with raisins, almonds and green pepper; rich, assertively flavored (downright stinky) cheeses, such as French Münster. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $16.00 2009 RustRidge Racehorse White Review Date - 11/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: For anyone who enjoys a serious California-style Chardonnay, this is a good selection. Although only 20% of the barrels are new French oak, the wine shows a good bit of oak influence, having been kept in barrel for 22 months. The grapes were grown in Chiles Valley, an AVA located within Napa Valley. It was bottled in late 2011, yet the oak has still not diminished. High (relatively) in alcohol at 15.4%, the wine has a definite preference for being enjoyed on its own rather than with food. Full-bodied and with a bright greenish gold color, the wine offers an oak-influenced aroma that also lets through hints of crème brûlée and pineapple. The palate shows a creamy character, with oak, citrus and pineapple. Brisk acidity supplies a clean, crisp finish. Serve in large tulip-shaped glasses at about 55F/13C. Suggested Food Pairings: Although the winery likes this wine with seafood, I didn’t think that worked very well, particularly not with oysters, although it might do well with a creamy shrimp and grits. But what did work especially well was chicken pot pie, so turkey pot pie would too. Also turkey tettrazini; creamed chicken over polenta; poulet à la crème. The winery also recommends chicken picatta, which makes sense with a good bit of lemon. Distributors: Global Wines $25.00 2011 Marqués de Cáceres Rosado Review Date - 11/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Tempranillo (80%) and Garnacha (20%) from Rioja Alta join forces to produce this dry, crisp rosado (rosé). An ideal choice (hang the weather!) for parties and festive occasions, rosé has a fine ability to pair with food, making it perfect for a holiday buffet. This example shows a brilliant reddish pink color, thanks to brief maceration of the fruit with the juice. On the aromas, cotton candy, watermelon and candied apple introduce flavors that evoke red fruit notes, from watermelon to red raspberry. The fruit is fresh and sweet, but fruit sweet, not residual sugar sweet, and the finish is crisp and dry, so banish any thoughts you may have had of pink being necessarily sweet. This is a great introduction to the genre for anyone convinced otherwise about pink wines, yet it will please those who muddle rosés and blush wines. Excellent value. Serve at 55F/13C, in tall, medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Blackened seafood salad; turkey picadillo; grilled chicken salad with chipotle peppers (but not too hot); mild curried potato salad and other mild curried dishes; rosemary ham; speck; sorpressata (and other cured meats); baked ham; ham croquetas (Spanish style); wings; paella; Cajun deep-fried turkey; baked beans (if not too sweet), roast pork tenderloin; fajitas. Distributors: Empire Distributing $9.00 2011 Jean Perrier et Fils Chignin Bergeron Cuvee Gastronomie Review Date - 10/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: There’s a lot here that needs explaining. First, the wine is from Savoie, an appellation in eastern France close to Switzerland. Remember the 1992 Winter Olympic Games in Albertville? Well, voilà. Savoie also abuts Italy. As in Switzerland, crisp, clean white wines are a big deal here. This also is dairy country (Tomme). So rich cheeses and white wine go hand in hand. Chignin Bergeron is a cru of vin de Savoie, the basic appellation. The village is Chignin, and Bergeron is the local name for Roussanne, the Rhône varietal that entirely composes this wine. It’s medium greenish yellow color, aromas of fresh yellow stone fruits (apricot especially), with a slight hint of almond that continues through the palate. Fleshy, ripe, and rich with good acidity, the wine delivers flavors of fresh apricot and a long, crisp finish. Serve fairly cool, about 45-50F/8-10C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses.. Suggested Food Pairings: Rich fare: Crumbed veal sweetbreads with sautéed pear; roast chicken with fresh garlic stuffed under the skin; fish with a saffron cream sauce; grilled (but still slightly rare) scallops with mustard sauce; coquilles Saint Jacques with piped mashed potatoes and cheese crumbs; mussels with garlic butter; cheese fondue; some mild Asian dishes (egg fu yung; Chinese minced chicken balls); mild chicken curry salad; veal in cream sauce with saffron and mushrooms (really good). Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $23.00 2011 Fratelli di Zeni Bardolino Classico Review Date - 10/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: If you want a fabulous lunchtme wine, or a wine with light meals, Bardolino, usually moderate in alcohol, is the choice of choice. Named for a charming town east of Lake Garda, the wine is produced in the province of Verona. Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara are the classic grapes, although other specific ones (among them Sangiovese and Barbera) now may be included but can’t exceed 20% in the aggregate The Classico zone surrounds the town of Bardolino, as well as Garda and several others. As with most wines in the genre, this is a light-bodied dry red wine, although this example shows a fairly deep purple red color, deeper than most. Corvina probably leads the pack, therefore. Aromas present candied red cherries, while the palate shows soft tannin and juicy red fruit flavors--red cherrry and red plum--and the finish brings out a note of almond/marzipan. Best served cool, about 55F/13C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Terrific value. Suggested Food Pairings: Best with light- to medium-bodied foods. Black olives; sandwiches or wraps with smoked or cured meats; grilled sausages; roast Cornish hen or sautéed quail; barbecued or fried chicken; wings; smoked pork belly or chicken; grilled duck breast with fig jam/balsamic glaze; young (not aged) Taleggio cheese or mild creamy cheeses. This is rather an odd intersection of cuisine and culture, but it’s terrific with South African bobotie (a sort of lamb meat loaf with dried fruits, curry and a custardy topping). Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $15.00 2008 Barmes Buecher Rosenberg Riesling Review Date - 10/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Alsace, France, once part of Germany, is home to lots of good wines, but especially to Riesling. François and Geneviève Barmès--Buecher is her maiden name--joined vineyards that have been in their respective families for hundreds of years. A very contemporary couple attuned to modern methods, the pair has converted the vineyards to biodynamic methods. The payoff is a dry, full-boded white wine of finesse and character, with a fine acid backbone and a super long finish. Even wine enthusiasts who are skeptical about Riesling would find this one hard to resist. A medium-deep golden straw color with greenish tones and aromas of yellow fruits with hints of lemon zest set the stage. Luscious fruit defines the palate, which provides plenty of minerality balanced with soft rich fruit. I prefer this one not so cold, about 60F/15C, because too much cold completely masks its richness and complexity. Good candidate for cellaring at cool temperatures. Suggested Food Pairings: Asian dishes such as Thai curry shrimp or chicken dishes; Chinese peanut chicken; black-and-white calamari; Caribbean-influenced dishes, such as coconut shrimp with apricot-mustard sauce, curry chicken meat patties. Smoked pork belly or pork chop with whole-grain mustard, roasted cabbage and mashed potatoes; fried or roast chicken. Winery suggests veal sweetbreads, and we’d love to try that with this wine. Distributors: Georgia Crown $35.00 2010 Domaine de la Croix Senaillet Saint-Veran Review Date - 10/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: If you dislike Chardonnay because of its frequently over-oaked California character, have a look at how it’s done in France. Specifically, in Burgundy. This example, showing a medum greenish-gold color, is made from grapes coming off 40-year-old vines (average), so that’s one thing that makes a difference. Aging on the lees in stainless steel tanks also makes a difference. Indigenous yeast, tricky to handle, is another part of the story. This wine sees no oak, so that keeps the freshness of the fruit intact. The aromas offer spirited citrus and floral characters. On the palate, the texture is silky and sensuous. Flavors continue the citrus notes that shape the aromas, with good acid backbone and plenty of minerality. The finish is long and ends with a clean, crisp wrap-up. The wine is certified “biologique,” which goes beyond organic. Serve moderately chilled, about 50-55F/10-12C n medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses or medium Burgundy glasses.(slightly oval). Suggested Food Pairings: Nothing over-spiced or over-seasoned. Gratin of scallops with Gruyère crumbs and piped mashed potatoes; creamy seafood casseroles; veal chops Dijonnaise (Dijon mustard cream sauce); rabbit or chicken in mustard sauce with wide noodles; shrimp and grits with a creamy garlic sauce (but go easy on the garlic); baked mild white fish with butter, crumbs and fresh herbs; crab meaet-stuffed flounder, baked; crab cakes; poached chicken breast with cream sauce. Distributors: Georgia Crown $24.00 2011 Domaine Jean Bousquet Malbec Review Date - 10/1/2012 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Never mind how French this looks; the wines are from Mendoza, Argentina! But the owner/winemaker is French, originally from Carcassonne, southeast of Toulouse. Jean Bousquet went to Argentina in 1997, and planted in a remote area (no water, no roads, no electricity) in 1998. His first harvest was in 2002. And it’s organic. The entire line has come into the Atlanta market, and you’ll find it floor stacked at Fresh Market, although apart from the wine department, so you may have to ask (as I did) where to find it. This full-bodied dry red wine comes with a garnet red color and smoky, meaty aromas that have a floral hint, somewhere between violet and lilac along with sweet, dark fruit characters. On the palate, that dark fruit character takes control, and fairly bursts through with delicious, juicy fruit flavors. Tannins are soft, and the wine leaves the palate wanting another sip. Acidity is on target, and well balanced with the fruit. Only the alcohol seems just a little out of kilter, and dominates the finish. To tame it, a cool temperature is most important, about 65F/18C. Choose a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Great value. Suggested Food Pairings: Argentina = beef, right? Barbecued beef brisket with a mild tomato-based, spicy but not hot barbecue sauce; steak; standing rib roast; cold roast beef sandwich; matahambre (rolled, stuffed flank steak--a classic Argentine dish); grilled sweetbreads, kidneys and (if you’re adventurous and/or Southern) chinchulines--or chitterlings. But don’t stop there: smoked pork belly; barbecued chicken; empanadas stuffed with beef or black beans; vegetarian legume dishes. Distributors: Empire Distributing $11.00 2009 Chateau de Campuget Costieres de Nimes Review Date - 10/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Costières de Nîmes never lets me down. Once considered part of Languedoc, it’s been enfolded into the Rhône since 2004. Exquisitely historic, Nîmes is a former Roman city called Nemausus where Roman soldiers who served for 15 years in the army were gifted parcels of land in the region, perhaps laying the foundation for its viticulture. The cháteau dates to the 17th century. Syrah leads the composition of this sturdy dry red wine (65%), with Grenache (30%) and Mourvèdre (5%) filling in the rest. Its deep ruby red color with bluish hints and meaty aromas (a sure sign of Syrah) lead to a rewarding palate experience that presents plenty of fresh black fruits--especially black currants. Syrah’s black pepper graces the finish, along with hints of brown baking spices. Round, with supple tannins and good acidity, this is a wine for many meals and occasions. Potential for cellaring a further 2-3 years. Just excellent, and a very fine value. Serve at about 65F/18F in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured meat terrines; roasted pink leg of lamb; South African bobotie, so probably any aromatic lamb stew or ground lamb casserole; mild curries with meat; duck rubbed with aromatic spices and a fig/balsamic glaze; smoked pork belly or other smoked meats or poultry, firm, aged cheeses. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $16.00 2007 Trione Block 21 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Review Date - 10/1/2012 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Alexander Valley n Sonoma County, Ca, does it again. This f ull-bodied dry red wine shows a medum-deep cherry red color. Aromas suggest dark fruits--plums and black currants--while the palate embraces fresh dark fruits and soft tannins. The balance, elegance and integraton of fruit, acid and tannin are just spot on. Alexander Valley shows its stuff here, with superb dark berry fruit. The alcohol is fairly high (14.5%), yet the wne doesn’t “read” hot. Just lovely. Able to be cellared for another decade or so, depending on the condition of the bottle being stored, if kept at cool temperatures. Serve at cellar temperature, about 55-60F/13-15C, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured terrines, pâté forestière (wth mushrooms) cider-brined pork chop (Pine Street Market, Avondale Estates); grilled duck breast rubbed with nutmet, cinnamon, cardamom, salt and pepper, balsamc glaze; grilled bone-in rib-eye; sautéed portobello mushrooms, grilled lamb steak, mild cheeses, especially creamy blues. Distributors: Global Wines $75.00 2011 Venge Spettro Proprietary Blend Review Date - 10/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: This Napa Valley limited-production (925 cases) dry white wine is a veritable fruit salad: Sauvignon Blanc (48%); Chardonnay (26%); Viognier (13%); Vermentino (8%); and Albariño (5%), a blend that’s completely different from the 2010, which also contained some Chenn Blanc. Production is just 925 cases, so there’s not much of this quite refined, interesting medium-to-full-bodied wine. Dry, with an aroma of exotic, tropical yellow fruits--especially pineapple--the wine shows a slight canned green pea note offered probably by the Sauvignon Blanc. Of all the varieties, the Sauvignon Blanc is the only one fermented in neutral (old) oak. The rest are done in stainless steel, providing a clean, vibrant, fresh yellow fruit character, backed up by good acidity and minerality. The palate is nearly seamless, so you can’t really distinguish one fruit component from another. Suffice it to say, the experience focuses on fresh, yellow stone fruits with a bit of pineapple and other tropical tones. Rich and exotic, it seems to work well as a cocktail wine or with a full meal. Suggested Food Pairings: Mousse of foie gras; white pizza (try buffalo milk mozzarella, thinly sliced Yukon Gold potatoes, pesto, thinly sliced Vidalia onion and arugula, one of my favorites); roast chicken; chicken pot pie or empanada (Galician style); coconut shrimp; Thai curry shrimp salad; ginger-garlic wings; cottage pie made with chicken; roast Cornish game hen; simple grilled or roasted mild fish (swordfish). I’d like to try it with cream of asparagus soup. Maybe a chilled one, rather than hot. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $30.00 2011 Ela Vinho Verde Review Date - 10/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: From northwestern Portugal comes a new entry into the Vinho Verde (vee-nyu vair-d’) category. While most people associate this wine with summer enjoyment, I say if you’re having scallops, why choose something else? Nonetheless, all Vinho Verde must be enjoyed in its youth; it is not a wine for cellaring. That said, sit back and relax and enjoy a mediu-bodied, slightly off-dry, slightly spritzy whte wine with a pale straw color. The grapes are Loureiro 85%, Trajadura 7.5%, Arinto 7.5%, all traditional in the region, Portugal’s largest winegrowing region, lying between the Minho and the Duoro rivers. Lemon-lime aromas set the benchmark for this refreshing, moderate alcohol (10.5%) wine. Brisk acidity runs through the palate, which again presents lemon-lime characters. The slight pétillance (fizzy) character adds to the fresh sensation. Serve cold, about 45F/7C in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: All shellfish and seafood; baked or grilled sheepshead (a great, mild inexpensive fish, at Buford Hwy. Farmers Market) with tartar sauce; grilled fresh sardines (also at BHFM) with lemon, very Portuguese; Thai curry shrimp salad and similar composed seafood salads; sautéed soft-shell crab with almonds; coconut shrimp with apricot-mustard sauce; bacalao fritters; deviled crab; fresh goat cheese with fresh herbs. Distributors: Georgia Crown $10.00 2010 Chozas Carrascal 2es Review Date - 10/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Pronounce that “doe-ceys,” referencing the fact that there are two grapes represented in this wine: Macabeo (a/k/a Viura) and Sauvignon Blanc. There also a 2es red. Chozas Carrascal sits just about 40 minutes outside of Valencia on Spain’s eastern coast in San Antonio de Requena. Tall cypress trees introduce the property just where the vines begin to trail up the slope to meet the horizon. A medium-bodied dry white wine, 2es shows a medium deep golden straw color. Aromas focus on tropical fruit, with hints of lemon flowers, mango and papaya. The palate shows good integration of the two grape types, with melded flavors that still suggest tropical fruits. Good acidity for balanc also helps the wine pair well with food. We tasted this with a variety of seafood dishes in Spain, but now I’m seeing how it will do outside its comfort zone. And the results are good! Excellent value. Serve chilled, about 55F/12C, and use a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Fried calamari with lemon aïoli; salt-and-pepper squid; Chinese peanut chicken; coconut shrimp with apricot mustard dipping sauce; butternut squash ravioli with sautéed apple and sage; egg fu yung and sauce; Thai curry shrimp salad. Distributors: Eagle Rock $10.00 2005 John Anthony Vineyards Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 10/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Jean Marie Truchard, John Anthony’s great grandfather, attempted to grow grapes and make wine in Texas, despite the humidity. His grandson and great grandson (John Anthony) bought land in Napa, restoring winemaking to the family heritage, as Truchard Vineyards. John Anthony now makes wine under his own label. The late-harvest Sauvignon Blanc we’re getting is the 2005 vintage, giving us the wonderful opportunity to taste one of these with a bit of age on it. Full-bodied, with a deep greenish golden hue, the wine emits sweet aromas of pineapple and lemon drop. The key to any sweet wine is acidity, and this one has plenty of it, giving the substantial sugar a terrific kick and taking it well out of the range of the liquified lollipop. On the palate, the flavors are lemon drop and candied pineapple, and the acidity pushes the finish into significant length. Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C in small tulip-shaped glasses. Could cellar further if held at 55F/13C. It’s fun to watch these evolve. Suggested Food Pairings: Foie gras, just sautéed--no crazy fruit embellishments, please; mousse of foie gras or other poultry liver; creamy blue cheeses (Fourme d‘Ambert; Gorgonzola dolce); lemon desserts (not too sweet); simple cookie (Madeleine or langue de chat). Distributors: Georgia Crown $54.00 2008 La Bellanotte Cabernet Franc Review Date - 10/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: From northeast Italy n the Venezia-Giulia comes this full-bodied dry red wine produced from vines that average 40 years. Showing a medium-deep ruby color, it’s made entirely from Cabernet Franc. Aromas of aromatic spce and dark fruit prepare the palate for the wine’s mouthwatering luscous dark fruit and spice. Soft tannins, a lingering finish and finely tuned acid-fruit balance compose an elegant experience. Stainless steel fermentation and aging along with bottle aging ensure fruit quality. Cool to about 65F/15C and decant about 30 minutes ahead of serving. Potential for cellaring a further 4-5 years at a constant temperature. Suggested Food Pairings: Pàté forestière (with mushrooms), black olives; duck breast rubbed with nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, salt and pepper, balsamic glaze; fajitas with beef; sautéed portobello mushrooms; grilled lamb steak or shoulder chop; meat-filled ravioli with reduced meat stock sauce; mild creamy cheeses. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $30.00 2010 Castello Monaci Liante Salice Salentino Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 86 Tasting Note: The “heel” on the “boot” of Italy, the Salentino peninsula in Puglia on Italy’s Adriatic coast is the home of this robust, full-bodied dry red wine. The blend is classic for the region: Negroamaro (80%) and Malvasia nera (20%), thus the wine is D.O.C. Its barely translucent cherry red color lies nicely on the eye. Red fruits and brown baking spices shape the aromas. The palate shows easy, fairly uncomplicated fruit with a fair finish. Supple tannins. The “Liante” is the wind of the Levant that blows icy cold in winter and hot in summer as it comes across the Adriatic. A very good value. Suggested Food Pairings: A bit finicky with food--great with some things; ok with others and not real good with a lot of dishes. Pâté forestière (splendid); grilled cider-brined pork chop (Pine Street Market); caponata (a winner); eggplant dishes with tomato; grilled chicken with pimientos; meat ravioli with tomato sauce; cannelini beans either as a salad or cooked with a piece of ham or not-too-spicy sausage; grilled mild Italian sausage; Mediterranean chicken pie with tomato; chicken cacciatore. Distributors: Georgia Crown $14.00 2009 Picchierri Gaetano & Sons Vermiglio Primitivo del Tarantino Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Primitivo, once thought to be Zinfandel’s parent and now considered its cousin, is typically associated with the Salento Peninsula in southeast Italy. But this example was produced from grapes grown in the Tarantino, so it’s an I.G.T. A barely translucent purple red color introduces the wine, which presents aromas of dried dark fruits (a slight whiff of raisin) and a palate that engages with supple tannins and clean pure dark fruit, with a slight hint of raisin and spice. Easy to drink, this Primitivo is not as is jaw-breaking as its Zinfandel cousin tends to be, nor, at 12.5%, as alcoholic. Very fine everyday wine. Suggested Food Pairings: Pâté forestière (coarse-textured with mushrooms, more like a terrine); cacciatore salami (hunter-style) from The Spotted Trotter; caponata, roasted olives with lemon (E. 48th St. Market), grilled chicken with peppers (cold as a salad); sorpressata and other cured meats; Italian sausage and peppers; cannelini bean salad; Greek-style lamb sausage; lentil salad; curried chick peas (not hot) and rice; Mediterranean chicken pot pie with tomato (Whole Foods); pizza with spinach and feta (Whole Foods); chicken cacciatore; Parmigiano Reggiano. Distributors: Empire Distributing $16.00 2006 Cantina Val di Neto Mutro Melissa Rosso Superiore Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Each region of Italy has grapes that are classic to that zone. In Calabria, the “toe” of Italy’s “boot,” Galioppo (75%) and Greco nero (25%) grow to make this wine, a D.O.C. wine for this region. Medium-bodied with a deep, dark, opaque ruby red color, the wine emits a rich, ripe red fruit character, strawberries and cherries, with hints of tar. Sweet red fruit shapes the palate, which presents soft tannins, well integrated with the fruit. Suggested Food Pairings: Loves spice: paprika-rich cacciatore; pâté forestière; peppered bresaola; roasted black olives with lemon (E. 48th Street Market); Mediterranean chicken pie with tomato (Whole Foods); meat-filled ravioli or simple lasagna with tomato sauce; Greek-style lamb sausage; cider-brined pork chop (Pine Street Market); legume-based dishes; crumbed baked chicken breast; barbecue-sauced wings. Distributors: Artisan Wines $23.00 2010 Lovatti Brolo Valsorda Rosso del Veneto Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Merlot blends 50-50 with Sangiovese to produce a medium-bodied dry red wine from the Veneto (thus Indicazione Geografica Tipica or I.G.T.) that shows a translucent garnet red color. The fruity aroma, enhanced by serving the wine at cool room temperatures, leans into red fruits and spice. The palate offers well-integrated red fruits, with plenty of mid palate, and a long clean finish. Suggested Food Pairings: Happy with a wide variety of foods. Pork terrine forestière (with mushrooms); black olives, grilled chicken breast strips with peppers; eggplant and tomato (caponata); muffaletta; cured meats--bresaola, sorproessata; shredded beef with peppers and cheese (the E. 48th-St. Market’s “East Sider” sandwich); roast chicken or Cornish game hen; Greek-style lamb sausage; pizza with veggies or with feta cheese and spinach; chicken cacciatore; stromboli with meat and cheese; grilled sausages. Distributors: Allgood Distributing $13.00 2009 Brancatelli Val del Sogno Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Here is a true Super Tuscan, blending Cabernet Sauvignon 80% and Cabernet Franc 20% from Tuscany, so it bears the I.G.T. designation. Not a drop of classic Italian grapes. Full-bodied with a deep inky-black red color, the wine launches with a magnificent aroma of myriad black fruits, from plum to cassis. On the palate, the substantial tannins are quite supple for a wine this young supple, making a tasting experience that is well integrated and balanced from start to finish. And speaking of the finish, it’s long and full of rich fruit. Overall, if one word comes to mind with this wine, it’s exactly that: rich. But not over the top, the wine retains a great measure of elegance. The 2007 is still on the shelves and delivers a similar taste profile. Decant for about an hour ahead of serving. Worth its cost. Suggested Food Pairings: Elegant but full-flavored fare: Pâté of black olives; terrines of game or other rich meats; roast leg of lamb, rack of lamb or grilled lamb steak, Wagyu prime rib or steak; roast duck, game, chicken cacciatore; meat-filled ravioli with tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese; simple lasagna, Parmigiano Reggiano. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $75.00 2007 Perazzeta Maestro Sanguineti Caruso Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Talk about your basic fruit salad!!! These grapes come from from multiple locations all over Italy. The composition is Sangiovese (50%--the grape of Tuscany), Nero d’Avola (20%--representing Sicilia); Corvina (14%--normally found in Valpolicella); Syrah (10%) and Rondiinella (6%--also one of the grapes of Valpolicella). Although technically not able to be vintage dated as the wine is sourced from multiple locations, making it a vino da tavola, it is in fact from the 2007 vintage (see the back label). One might think of this wine as a “Super Italian.“ Moreover, four different winemakers collaborated on this project. Medium-bodied with an opaque purple red color, the wine opens with aromas of dried and cooked dark fruit and sun-baked tar. Fresh dark fruits grip the palate, and tannins are soft and supple. The alcohol isn’t very high by the numbers (13.9%) but there is heat in the finish. Cool temperatures will temper this somewhat, as will the presence of rich food. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured terrines with mushrooms (pâté forestière); sorpressata; roasted black olives with lemon; Parmigiano Reggiano; simple tomato meat lasagna; cider-brined pork chop (Pine Street Market); chicken cacciatore; meat ravioli with tomato sauce; meat pies. Winery suggests fillet mignon, grilled portobello mushrooms with balsamic and veal scallopini. Distributors: Con Vinum/Eagle Rock $19.00 2008 Musella Amarone della Valpolicella D.O.C.G. Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Amarone--a word that embraces the word “amaro,” meaning “bitter”-is one of the classic red wines of the Veneto. The grapes are the usual ones that compose a Valpolicella, namely: Molinara, Corvina and Rondinella, For Amarone, however, they are dried (passito). This example doesn’t provide the often raisened character associated with the genre, but instead is an elegant, refined interpretation of Amarone. When first opened, it seems shy and introspective. About 30 minutes later, it explodes with fine aromatics, embracing spice and black fruits. On the palate, silky tannins frame well-integrated black fruits, yielding an overall elegant impression despite high alcohol (16%), making it very important to cool the temperature down. Decanting about 15-30 minutes before serving is a wise plan. Worth cellaring if proper temperatures and conditions can be maintained. Suggested Food Pairings: Awesome with so many foods: Black olives; pork terrine forestière (amazing) bresaola (perhaps the best pairing with this air-dried peppered beef); grilled lamb steak, roast rack of lamb; shredded beef with tomato; salt-crusted beef roast cooked rare; barley risotto with braised lamb; game; rabbit braised with prunes, roast turkey, duck or goose. End the meal with a plate of cubed Parmigiano Reggiano. To die for with this wine. Distributors: Ultimate Distributing $45.00 2008 Conti degli Azzoni Rosso Cantalupo Marche Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 94 Tasting Note: In central Italy, the Marche (or Marshes) is a hilly region that faces the Adriatic Sea, and these grapes come from vineyards there, so we‘d have to call it a “Super Marche.” Composed of Merlot (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) and Sangiovese (20%), this I.G.T. dry red wine shows a nearly opaque dark red color. Aromas settle on red and dark fruits, with raspberry characters in the lead. The palate shows rich, ripe dark fruits, very firm tannins derived from fruit and a long, fruit-filled finish. Just about perfect balance. For this big a wine, with alcohol at 14%, it’s surprising to get no sense of heat from alcohol at all. Lovely stuff. Suggested Food Pairings: Italian hunter-style salami (cacciatore); pâté forestière (more like a terrine in texture) with mushrooms--perhaps the best pairing with this dish; caponata; peppered bresaola; Italian shredded beef with tomato, peppers and cheese; lightly curried garbanzo beans and tomato over rice; Greek-style lamb sausage; lasagna with meat tomato sauce; Mediterranean chicken pie (Whole Foods); chicken cacciatore; grilled steak with morel stew; mushroom ravioli with Marsala sauce; cannelini bean salad with tomatoes and a light vinaigrette. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $30.00 2008 Veglio Barbera d Alba Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Grown not only in Italy’s Piedmont (or Piemonte) but also in California’s Shenandoah Valley, in North Carolina, now in North Georgia and even in Argentina, Barbera makes a dry red wine with soft tannins and good fruit. Grown both in Alba, like this example, and in Asti, also located in the Piemonte, and it‘s D.O.C. for both, Barbera is one of Italy’s classic grape types. Medium-bodied with a medium-deep purple red color, this example shows aromas and flavors that portray black plums and black currants, and tannins are soft and easy. Moderate alcohol, 13%, helps it to go with food or to work as an aperitif wine. Best served cool, at about 62-65F/16-17C, in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Pâté forestière; bresaola, sorpressata and other cured meats; cold grilled chicken and roasted red peppers; caponata (eggplant, tomato, olives and peppers, served room temperature); muffaletta; roast chicken; chicken livers sautéed with prosciutto and red wine; grilled mild Italian sausage; Sicilian-style lasagna (just meat and tomato). Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $15.00 2008 Provenza Negresco D.O.C. Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Designated by the producer a “Classico Rosso,” this full-bodied dry red is a bowl of fruit from classic grapes grown near Lake Garda in the Lugana region in northern Italy (Lombardy, capital Milano): Groppello, 40%; Marzemino, 20%; Sangiovese, 20%, and Barbera 20%. The wine is D.O.C. Garda. All grapes are co-fermented on the skins for a long period, then aged in medium and large barriques (250-500 ml). The producer considers this a “New World” style of wine. It shows an inky deep dark, almost black purple color. A fine perfume of dark fruits with some floral notes shapes the aromas, while on the palate, dark fruits and brown spices intermingle. Soft tannins make this a wine for all sorts of palate preferences. Fantastic aperitif wine. The wine has a definite preference for delicately flavored foods: Suggested Food Pairings: Sorpressata, roast chicken with buttermilk mashed potatoes and natural jus; tortellini salad diced salami and a light vinaigrette; mushroom-filled ravioli with olive oil and minced fresh Italian parsley; roast beef; stuffed flank steak or top round, vegetable-topped pizza. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $33.00 2010 Sensi Celliere Chianti Colli Senesi Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Forget what you’ve ever thought about Chianti if all you know is the one that comes in basket bottles. The real deal is a whole different experience altogether. This one, a D.O.C.G., is entirely composed of Sangiovese, with nothing else blended in as has been historically traditional. Aromas of red cherries with spice notes shape the first impression; while on the palate spice, red fruits and black tea notes harmonize. Tannins are firm but not aggressive, and lend ample weight and structure to the wine, yet the mouthfeel is silky. The finish is remarkably long and keeps the tannins in perspective. Likely a good choice for cellaring at cool temperatures for long keeping. An all-purpose wine, this Chianti will pair well with a wide variety of foods. Extraordinary value--so good I triple-checked the price. Suggested Food Pairings: Robustly flavored chicken liver terrine; vegetable-topped pizza; black olives; sorpressata; bresaola with black pepper; sausage and peppers; muffaletta; meat-filled ravioli with tomato sauce and freshly grated Parmesan cheese; roasted red meats; furred game. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $12.00 2008 Piazzo Barbaresco Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Is there any grape more classic to Italy than Nebbiolo? This is the classic grape of Barbaresco, a grape of ultimate refinement and elegance. Also grown in California (Shenandoah Valley), where it makes more robust wines, in Italy it promises and delivers restrained good taste. This medium-bodied dry red wine presents a translucent garnet red color and aromas that blend red fruit with floral notes. On the palate elegant red fruit flavors present a refined, well-integrated, balanced taste framed by supple tannins. This wine has good potential for cellaring at cool temperatures over the next half dozen years or so. Suggested Food Pairings: Refined flavors: Creamy liver mousse; roast chicken; simple tomato lasagna; roasted veal with mushrooms; crumbed sweetbreads; snail ragout (but not with a lot of garlic); roast pork tenderloin. Distributors: Ultimate Distributing $30.00 2007 Apollonio Rocca dei Mori Copertino Rosso Review Date - 9/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Two classic Italian grape types compose this medium-bodied, aromatic wine from Apulia (Puglia): Nero Amaro (70%) and Montepulciano (30%). A nearly opaque dark purple color leads to aromatic black fruits and spice, hinting of black plums and black pepper, with a gratifying, warm earthiness to boot. On the palate, the black fruits continue to dominate, adding suggestions of black cherry and other spices. Tannins are round and fruit-derived. The fruit-filled character of the wine is enhanced by serving it at cool temperatures. Well-integrated and -balanced, the wine is a good food companion but also pleases as an aperitif. This label carries the designation “Denominazione Origine Protetta.“ Suggest decanting 30 minutes or so before serving. Suggested Food Pairings: Pâté forestière; peppered bresaola; meat-and-tomato sauce lasagna; chicken cacciatore; hunter-style salami (cacciatore); cannelini bean stew or salad; Mediterranean chicken pie with tomato; grilled chicken with roasted red peppers; caponata; stromboli; lasagna with meat and tomato sauce; Parmigiano Reggiano. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $17.00 2011 Altos Las Hormigas Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Bonarda, whatever it is, used to be the most widely planted red wine grape in Argentina because of its propensity for big yields if heavily watered. As Malbec surged, Bonarda’s light began to dim because tt wound up so often in bulk wines along with Criolla. But now it’s beginning to get its day in the sun, as growing techniques and vinification methods bring out its bountiful flavors. This example is a medium-bodied dry red wine that sees no oak. Nor does it need any. The grapes are from 30-year-old vines, so their small berries deliver great intensity. Because it’s still undiscovered by the public, wines made from Bonarda deliver excellent value, especially as prices rise for Malbec. This example presents a medium-bodied dry red wine that offers a deep, intensely colored purple red color and loads of fresh dark fruit aromas touched with vanilla. Forward fruit is balanced by good acidity so while you get flavors of rich, dark fruit marmalades, your palate doesn’t feel ambushed by an overdose of fruit. Solid work, the wine sees no time in oak. Serve at cool temperatures, about 65F/17C or lower in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Burgers with cheese and all the trimmngs, ribs with a spicy dry rub and Kansas City-style sauce (Burnt Fork BBQ, Decatur), duck leg rubbed with five spice powder, roasted over hardwood (use indirect method) and brushed with a melted dark fruit jam; chili; mole poblano; any red meat cooked over a fire, dark chocolate. Distributors: Empire Distributing $10.00 2011 Alois Lageder Rose of Lagrein Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: The northernmost part of Italy used to be part of Austria, and still today one finds there lots of German influences in the food, the names and the approach to winemaking. Known as the Südatirol or Alto Adige, this region produces some of Italy’s most interesting wines. Lagrein is a grape that we see little of in this country, but it is a mainstay grape in this region, and is related to more familiar Syrah and Pinot Noir. It makes deeply colored red wines, so the rosé comes across as a light decidedly ruby red, rather than pink, wine. Aromas hit on red berry/sour cherry characters, with some floral notes. Fresh red fruit flavors define the palate, which gets added interest from a slightly bitter note in the finish. This grape is tannic, so the rosé has a good bit of grip, great for pairing with food. The ample mid-palate picks up some spice notes. Serve this wine young, within two years of harvest, and chill it to about 55-60F/13-15C. Use a medium-sized tu lip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Well-seasoned fare, such as barbecued chicken wings; pâtés and terrines, cured meats; grilled sausages; kabobs with chicken or lamb, smoked meats, including chicken, ribs glazed with dark cherry barbecue sauce. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $20.00 2010 Canyon Road Winery Moscato Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Some wine geeks would have you think it’s an assault on their intellect to be caught drinking a sweet wine, They’re missing out. For summer, a chilled Moscato, whether sparkling or still, can be so refreshing and uplifting when the heat is oppressive. This example, showing a California appellation so the grapes come from multiple AVAs, is delightful and very easy on the wallet as well. Light-bodied and showing a pale yellow color, this moderate alcohol (8.5%) wine is sweet but balanced, not at all cloying. Aromas and flavors present a grab bag of fresh fruit characters, especially white melon and pears, plus a hint of honeysuckle. Fresh and lively on the palate, this wine is 100% muscat blanc à petits grains. Serve moderately chilled, about 50F/10C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Mostly sold in restaurants, this Moscato limited in availability, but it is on both the wine list (by the glass and bottle) and the shelf at Three Blind Mice in Lilburn. TBM is a restaurant, wine and tapas bar and retail store. Superb with TBM’s strawberry shortcake. Suggested Food Pairings: More flexible than one might think. Spicy Asian appetizers; spicy chicken or seafood kabobs; grilled chicken and fruit salad; summer fruit-based desserts, such as strawberry or peach shortcake (if not too sweet); poached peaches chilled and served with crème anglaise; strawberries and cream; cheese plate with soft room-temperature cheeses and assorted fruit (perhaps its best pairing). Distributors: Empire Distributing $8.00 2010 Alexander Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: While many California Pinot Noirs come across as fruit bombs, some with quite high alcohol and darker color than Pinot Noir usually shows when left to its own devices. (That’s because they’ve been tinkered with by adding Petit Sirah or other red wine grapes that shouldn’t be there.) But this example, from the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, shows an elegance and pedigree well beyond its price. The fruit comes from vines that are a selection of chiefly Dijon and Pommard clones. This vintage was a cool one, allowing for more hang time, which generates good acidity and complexity. More savory than sweet in style (and thus more the style I prefer personally), this Pinot Noir shows a soft violet color and aromas of black and red fruits with touches of earthiness and dried herb. The palate shows good fruit intensity, but isn’t a bottle of cherry quaff. The acid backbone that stitches together the cherry/black plum flavors creates a savory environment for food and supplies the wine structure and potential longevity if cellared properly. One of the better values in American Pinot Noir, this wine needs to be served lightly cooled, about 65F/17C in Burgundy glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken or duck liver mousse (rather than terrine--textural considerations); duck legs rubbed with five spice powder and roasted, then brushed with a melted seedless, dark fruit jam; beer-can chicken (spice rubbed and cooked over a can of beer, indirect heat); wood-grilled wild salmon (sock-eye especially); wild mushroom ravioli with brown butter and fresh herbs Maybe heresy, but great lightly chilled with sausage and pepperoni pizza (Mo’s on Briarcliff Rd.). Distributors: Empire Distributing $26.00 2009 Domaine Dupeuble Pere et Fils Beaujolais Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Among red wines for summer enjoyment, Beaujolais ranks among my top five choices. Amenable to light chilling--in fact, it demands it no matter the weather--Beaujolais is pronounced bow --like hair bow not like bending from the waist--jho-lay, NOT bu-jho-lay. Both the region and the wine merit more serious attention from American wine consumers than they typically get. This is one of my three tests if someone tells me he or she is a "connoisseur.” Don’t like a good Beaujolais? Then your “connoisseur” credentials are suspect. (The other two are Riesling and rosé.) Moreover, the landscape, the food and the charm of the region are superb. This example comes from a producer who has been dong Beaujolais for generations, and the vines range from 50 to 100 years old. Right there, that makes a difference. Light-medium bodied, this dry red wine shows a medium deep purple color, and floral and fruit aromas, with flavors that present a wide range of fruit characters, from blueberry to blackberry to boystenberry, loganberry, huckleberry, perhaps a touch of red currant?, and aromatic brown baking spices. Fine acidity gives this one structure, and although most sources tell you not to cellar Beaujolais, I would bet on this one for near term cellaring if well stored. (I’ve just tasted a six-year-old Beaujolais Nouveau that knocked my socks off--swore it was a cru.) Serve slightly chilled (including in winter), about 60F/15C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken or duck liver mousse; roast or grilled duck brushed with melted seedless red raspberry jam (thin it with some of the wine if too thick); beer-can roast chicken rubbed with five spice powder and cooked over indirect heat; ribs with a black cherry barbecue sauce (Whole Foods); teriyaki; grilled chicken on a bed of greens, red wine vinaigrette with olive oil (go easy on the vinegar); and don't laugh sausage and pepperoni pizza from Mo's Pizza (Briarcliff Rd.)--especially important to chill lightly, dark chocolate. Distributors: Northeast Wholesale $16.00 2010 Gaia 14-18h Rose Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: A native Greek red wine grape, Agiorgitiko, grown in the mountains zones near Nemea in the Peloponnisos, provides this full-bodied dry (very little residual sugar) rosé. Wines from this region were known in classical times. The 14-18h part of its name references the fact that the juice is macerated on the skins between 14 and 18 hours. The light red color of this wine shows hints of blue tones, typical of this grape, and the aromas present aromas of red fruits, especially red cherries. Red fruits dominate the flavors, which add some spice notes to the mix. The long finish is rewardingly refreshing. Moderate alcohol at about 13.5%. Good acidity lends balance with the bit of residual sugar, leaving the palate with a sensation of dryness. Handsomely done. The winery recommends 45F/7C, but I would prefer it a bit warmer. Do not cellar. Suggested Food Pairings: Splendid with roasted red snapper and grilled tomato halves, eggplant rounds and zucchini (tasted at Kyma); moderately spicy salamis, including the uncured dry chorizo from Colameco’s Primo Naturale at Whole Foods, pizza with tomato sauce, cheese, pepperoni and Italian sausage; grilled chicken, fish and vegetables; blended milk cheeses (cow, sheep and goat); wraps with turkey and/or ham; grilled ham steak; muffaletta (E. 48th Street Italian Market); ham croquettes; ribs with a spicy Memphis-style rub or thick Kansas City-style barbecue sauce; fajitas with shrimp, chicken, beef or pork; legume-based salads. Distributors: United Distributors $16.00 2009 Peregrine Mohua Riesling Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 89 Tasting Note: New Zealand Rieslings can be absolutely awesome, often reminding one of German Rieslings, just with not quite the minerality of the latter. But you’ll find plenty of the other characters we look for in a Riesling--beginning with the slight petrol character that does take some getting used to but that the Riesling fanatic finds essential. This example, made from Central Otago fruit on New Zealand’s South Island, exhibits a bright medium golden straw color. Get past that fusil oil character in the aromas, which I love by the w ay, and you’ll find fleshy yellow stone fruit and citrus flavors with great acidity and a really peachy conclusion. That’s all classic for Riesling. Good Riesling. Brisk acidity, and moderate alcohol, which all good Riesling should have, make food pairing easy. Serve moderately chilled, about 60F/15C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Likes assertively flavored foods; spice but not heat. Chilled, poached sockeye salmon with saffron mayonnaise; grilled bratwurst with caramelized onions and Düsseldorf or Dijon mustard; salad of grilled chicken breast and peaches with a citrus vinaigrette; poached, chilled chicken breast with curried yogurt dressing, almonds, celery and apples; smoked white fish, tandoori chicken, butternut squash ravioli with brown butter and toasted pine nuts, tacos filled with carnitas and mild green salsa. Distributors: Empire Distributing $17.00 2010 Scott Harvey Wines Zinfandel Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Not your big, chewy, raisiny style of Zinfandel, this mostly Amador County Zin (12% is from Napa Valley) still has big alcohol (14.5%) typical of Zinfandels, but doesn’t drown the palate in numbing sensations nor feed it excessive upfront fruit. The Zinfandel is blended with 23% Barbera, a grape that does especially well in Amador. The back label shows it tilting more toward an Old World style, and indeed this approach to Zinfandel does just that. A study in balance, the wine offers a medium-deep garnet color with aromas of aromatic spices and red fruits. On the palate, supple aggressive tannins lend structure to the red fruit characters, a blend of red raspberry, red currant and red cherry. More aromatic spices dot the palate profile, allspice especially. The wine spends 17 months n French oak, another winemaking feature that sets it apart from the crowd. If Zinfandel can be elegant, this one gets as close to that marker as it can. Still, the alcohol will show if the wine is served too warm, so aim for 60-65F/15-17C, and use a medum-s9zed tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured terrines with game; Cakes & Ale’s pork and rabbit terrine; beef or pork fajitas; muffaletta (E. 38th St. Market); grilled panino wth onions and beef (Alpine Bakery & Trattoria); burgers; grilled or roasted duck legs with raspberry jam glaze; cured meats; dark chocolate (the Barbera in this wine helps with this paring). Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $22.00 Mary Elke Brut Sparkling Wine NV Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: The winery is based in Anderson Valley, in western Mendocino County, northern California. The county lies along the Pacific Ocean, and gets cooling breezes from that source. The Elke family has grown fruit in Anderson Valley for such classic California sparklers as Mumm Napa and Roederer Estate. The grapes for this wine--60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir--come from select vineyards in Mendocino County. The wine’s pale yellow color offers lovely eye appeal, while the aromas suggest apple, pear and the scent of honey, which also is picked up on the palate. Fuji apple and pear shape the flavor profile, which concludes with a clean, crisp streak of acidity. Alcohol is just 12.5%. Delectable and very food friendly, the wine should be served at about 55F/13C, and we like it best in white wine glasses, but you can use flutes if you wish. This small winery only turns out about 2000 cases a year total. Suggested Food Pairings: Great with our cured salmon above; smoked trout; Asian fare that’s not too spicy; cocktail-size crab cakes; creamy chilled soups; ceviche, chilled raw or lightly roasted oysters with a minced apple mignionette, cold peach soup and other cold soups. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. (Note: Order in advance) $25.00 2011 Tiziano Pinot Grigio Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Named for one of Italy’s greatest painters, Tiziano Vicellio, this outfit produces both a Pinot Grigio and a Chianti, either one excellent values. The Pinot Grigio is grown in the Veneto, the zone around Verona and Treviso. I don’t typically care for many of the Pinot Grigio wines from this area, as I find them flabby, lacking acidity and character. Might as well drink water. Not this one. It has good acidity, so the finish is crisp and the slight fruit sweetness it shows is not cloying. And it represents good value, making it delightful for a summer pool party. Light-to-medium-bodied, the wine shows a greenish yellow color and aromas of ripe banana and summer flowers. On the palate, pear and apricot/peach intersect with a touch of Fuji apple in the long, clean finish. Quite a lot of wine for the money. Winery recommends serving at 50F/10C, but I find that a mite too cold for my preferences. So I drink this wine at about 55-60F/13-15C in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Shrimp ceviche with fresh herbs, minced scallion; cured salmon with fresh dill, dill/yogurt sauce; wraps with chicken salad, fresh slivered carrots, lettuce and sprouts; carpaccio of scallop with lemon and olive oil, white pepper, arugula; white bean salad (cannelini beans) with fresh herbs, minced bell peppers, celery, scallion, lemon, olive oil, Russian salad (fresh peas, minced radishes, crisply cooked carrots cut into small cubes; green beans cut into small pieces, tiny shrimp, corn, minced scallions, minced celery, bell pepper, mayonnaise/sour cream). Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $9.00 2010 Vigna Treviso Ribolla Gialla Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: From Italy’s far northeast, the Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, comes this unusual grape that we don’t see very often in this part of the world. Ribolla Gialla (yellow). It comes from Greece through Slovenia, which is immediately adjacent to Italy’s northeast border, and while it had diminished substantially through the 1990s, now is being replanted again with enthusiasm. And rightly so. Although most are light bodied, this example, showing a greenish yellow color, veers toward medium-bodied but shows the grape’s classic floral aromas and citrus notes. A good bit of white melon fills out the palate, and the acidity provides a cleansing, bracing aspect of the wine. This example also sees no oak, which is appropriate for a hot summer’s day wine. I don’t think it would be fun oaked even in the dead of winter, though. Serve it chilled, about 50F/10C in medium tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Elote callejero (Mexican-style grilled ears of corn with queso cotijo, mayonnaise, chili and lime); fried fish tacos with jícama slaw; grilled chicken salad with grilled corn, avocado chunks and mild chili mayonnaise dressing; fried chicken wings or strips with honey mayonnaise. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $24.00 2010 Beachball Vinho Verde Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Located in northern Portugal, Vinho Verde is that country’s largest wine-growing region. Made typically from alvarinho (called albariño in Spain’s Galicia), these wines are light and refreshing, moderate in alcohol--this example is 9.5%--and usually show a light pétillance or sparkle, as this one also does. Light-bodied and showing a pale yellow color, the wine opens with a vigorous pétillance as soon as it splashes into the glass. Aromatic, with hints of lemon drop and stone fruits, the wine presents a palate that continues the stone fruit characters (white stone fruit chiefly) and finishes with a touch of guava. Some nuttiness--almond--adds interest to both the aromas and the flavors. Clean, crisp and dry in the finish, this is a stellar example of the genre. Serve well chilled, about 45F/7C, and use a medium-sized tulip-shaped white wine glass. Do not cellar. Suggested Food Pairings: Cured salmon with yogurt/dll sauce; cold white bean salad with red onion, Italian parsley, lemon-oil vinaigrette; shrimp ceviche with Key lime juice; calamari ceviche with cilantro, lime juice and just a hint of hot pepper, bacalao croquetas with cream sauce (Three Blind Mice in Lilburn); pasta salad with crunchy vegetables, creamy dressing and black olives; grilled or poached chlled scallops with remoulade sauce; couscous salad with feta and black olives, Many Folds Farm (South Fulton County) sheep’s milk Brebis, mild plain goat cheese (Mussgenug, CalyRoad Creamery, Decimal.Point or CapraGia--all from Georgia. Avoid herbed or flavored cheeses--comes off unpleasantly bitter with this wine. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $11.00 2010 Castillo de Montseran Garnacha Review Date - 8/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: From Cariñena, a Denominación de Origen located in Zaragoza in the ancient kingdom of Aragón, this wine is entirely made from the Garnacha grape, which is the most widely planted in this region. An intense, deeply colored purple red medium-bodied wine, this Garnacha is designed to be drunk young and fresh, and may be served lightly chilled--iin other words, an ideal wine for a hot weather red. The wine emphasizes fruit, especially black plums, with a hint of dried herb in both the aromas and the finish. Vineyards are located at high mountain altitudes, a cool climate factor that helps preserve acidity and intensify fruit. Moderate alcohol: 12.5%. Serve moderately chilled, about 65F/17C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Great value. The 2009 vintage, most worthy, is still on shelves in Atlanta. The 2009 currently is still in wide distribution in the Atlanta area, and is excellent as well. Not for cellaring. Suggested Food Pairings: Platters of well-flavored cured meats, such as sorpressata, chorizo (the dried, uncured chorizo from Colameco’s Primo Naturale is excellent with this); serrano ham; lomo, grilled mild Italian sausage with fennel; tomato-based dishes; caponata (eggplant, tomato--served cold); legume-based dishes; grilled medium-rare lamb shoulder chop; ribs and other barbecue; grilled duck legs brushed with melted black plum jam thinned with some of the wine; ribs with a spicy Memphis-style rub and either Kansas City-sytle or Memphis-style barbecue sauce (burnt Fork BBQ, Decatur); pasta salads with black olives, feta cheese and creamy dressing; assorted Spanish cheeses (sheep’s milk cheeses such as Manchego, Córdoba; goat-milk based cheeses); dark chocolate torte. Distributors: National Distributing $10.00 2011 Mirror Sauvignon Blanc Musque Clone Review Date - 7/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Sauvignon Blanc is one of California’s icon grape types, especially associated with Napa Valley, home to this example. Not the usual grassy/herbaceous style of the grape, this one is aromatic and fragrant, showing aromas of white melon with touches of pineapple. Its medium yellow straw exhibits greenish highlights. The wine (100 Musqué clone) takes that melon character into the palate. The mid palate is deep, complex and full of flavor, and that pineapple note appears again. The finish is long and rich, with a hint of white grapefruit zest. Acid is moderate, so I wouldn’t pair this wine with a dish that had a lot of butter/cream richness. Cold stainless steel fermentation keeps the fruit characters fresh, and neutral French oak barrels supplied the appropriate vessels for rounding it off. Lees stirring adds complexity and a slight creaminess to the texture. Former Oakland Raiders quarterback Rick Mirer is the owner. His college career was at Notre Dame, but he seems to hold no grudges about that 1980 national championship game against UGA. Of course, he was only 10 years old that year. Serve moderately cool, about 60F/15C. I actually like it a notch warmer than that. Suggested Food Pairings: Spring vegetable stews and salads; grilled chicken and mild white fish (trout) with fresh herbs; Greek lemon potatoes with feta cheese; pasta with herbed Boursin; flounder baked with crab stuffing; crab cakes; fried Chinese lemon chicken. Distributors: Hemispheres $25.00 2011 Long Shadows Poets Leap Riesling Review Date - 7/1/2012 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Long Shadows works with highly regarded winemaker partners to produce its wines. This wine, made in partnership with Amin Diel of Schlossgut Diel in the Nahe, Germany, is a longtime personal favorite, and I think one of the best Rieslings the U.S. produces. Me.dium pale yellow straw with slight greenish lights offers eye appeal, while aromas present peach, quince and floral qualities. On the palate, the wine presents fruit sweetness, rather than straight ahead sugar, and mouthwatering lime and minerality join forces to craft a long, delectable finish. The high acidity (.8) and low ph (3.05) suggest the likelihood of reasonable cellerability. Serve chilled to about 50F/10C, although it gets even more interesting as it warms up and opens up in the glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken baked on sliced onions and potatoes; grilled chicken apple sausage (Bruce Aidells); smoked fish or meats, grilled smoked pork chop with grainy mustard, roasted cabbage and mashed buttermilk garlic potatoes; grilled bratwurst with caramelized onion and whole-grain mustard; grilled smoked pork chop (The Butcher’s Market/Woodstock) with mashed garlic buttermilk potatoes, roasted cabbage and mustard, roast turkey, Asian dumplings, noodles, seafood and chicken dishes, provided they’re not too spicy hot. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $22.00 2007 Left Coast Wine Cellars Calis Cuvee Pinot Noir Review Date - 7/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: So much Pinot Noir these days is beginning to remind me of childhood drinks, with fruit bomb in-your-face cherry characters and no complexity, along with alsohol sometimes so high, I think I’m drinking a liquid lit match. Well, enough. This one departs substantially from that, and indeed reminds me of the savory character of Central Otago Pinot Noir yet without that wild herb character you find in those. Medium-bodied with a fine, limpid cherry red color, the wine presents aromas of dried fruits, cried currants, and some spice. There’s a hint of that lovely earthiness so desirable in Pinot Noir. On the palate, the texture is clean and lies nicely on the tongue, with soft, supple tannins and a savory approach to fruit and finish. Throughout there‘s a hint of vanilla. Serve this wine in a classic Pinot Noir/Burgundy glass (round bowl) and get it to about 67F/17C. Cool serving temperatures really enhance the experience in this case, a good thing given how hot it’s been. Suggested Food Pairings: Silky chicken liver mousse, roast chicken, duck or Cornish game hen; guinea fowl, grilled meaty fish or loup de mer, roasted sea bass, teriyaki, grilled lamb chop. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $22.00 2010 Lovingston Josies Knoll Cabernet Franc Review Date - 7/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: A parent to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc holds much promise for East Coast winemaking, and here’s the proof: This full-bodied dry red wine exhibits an inky dark purple red color. On the nose aromas of dried dark fruits--plums, currants--hints of black tea and spice lead to a palate that offers big fruit flavors, repeating the dark fruits and spice. The finish is supremely long and fruit packed, leaving spice as a lasting memory. Silky tannins embrace these flavors with firm elegance, so decanting for at least an hour before enjoying is a good thought. Store any remains in a refrigerator and let the wine warm up a bit after it‘s poured; it keeps magnificently. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65F/17C in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst (Patak in Austell); smoked chicken; Country Captain (chicken in a curried tomato sauce with almonds and currants); fajitas with beef or chicken; lamb steak; roast duck; legume dishes; pasta with Bolognese sauce (include ham and chicken livers in the sauce); Gouda from Flat Creek Lodge in Swainsboro or similar mild firm cheese. Distributors: Artisan Vines $19.00 2009 Quintessential Wines Two Angels Cabernet Sauvignon Review Date - 7/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: The Mayacamas Mountain range separates Sonoma Valley from Napa Valley. From the Sonoma side of the range comes this full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, packing a deep garnet color and aromas that express dark fruit (black currant, blackberries), vanilla and dark chocolate. On the palate, silky tannins enfold a palate of well-evolved fruit, yet black cherry and black currant flavors stand out, with brown baking spice notes adding depth and interest. A long, clean finish concludes. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (87%) and Merlot (13%), this is a wine that shows beset a cool room temperatures, about 65F/16-17C, and use a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. “Two Angels” Cabernet Savignon is due soon in the Atlanta market. Suggested Food Pairings: Wild boar sausage from Pine Street Market, Avondale Estates; coarse-textured terrines; meatloaf; chicken hunter style (with tomato and mushrooms); roast turkey; Memphis-style ribs; smoked chicken; grilled beef or lamb steak, slow-smoked beef ribs. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $27.00 2011 La Grande Cote Mon Blanc Review Date - 7/1/2012 Score - 93 Tasting Note: We think of Zinfandel when we think of Paso Robles, CA, and that’s warranted (see red wines below). But Paso Robles also has developed Rhône-based wines among its icon inventory. This white wine is just one example. Made of Grenache blanc (95%) and Roussanne (5%), both Rhône grapes, this is an excellent example of where California, and Paso Robles particularly, has taken Rhône grape varieties. This medium-bodied dry white wine shows a slight coppery straw color. It was fermented and aged (on the lees) in stainless steel. No oak. Yeah! Fresh fruit aromas focus on pear, white melon and Fuji apple, and the flavors follow in lockstep with these characters. Good acidity gives this delectable flavor profile some serious backbone, and there’s a little stony minerality there as well. Serve moderately chilled, about 60F/15C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken terrine with herbed mayonnaise; poulet à la crème; Chinese peanut chicken; baked, creamy fish dishes; chicken pot pie; baked whole flounder with crab and bread crumb stuffing; creamy chicken salads; scallops baked with piped puréed potatoes; crumbed sweetbreads with sautéed pear, spinach and cream; baked sea bass, fresh cod, or halibut with butter and fresh herbs. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $25.00 2010 Lachini Pinot Gris Review Date - 7/1/2012 Score - 93 Tasting Note: We all know Pinot Noir is intimately associated with Oregon, but so is Pinot Gris, a mutation of Pinot Noir. When this grape is vinified in Oregon, it must be called Pinot Gris by state regulation. So Oregon Pinot Gris veers closer to the Alsace style than it does to Italian Pinot Grigio, and shows a full-bodied often rich character. This full-bodied example presents a medium yellow color with aromas of exotic spice and citrus (lemon). Ripe, rich and complex, the palate presents layers of flavor that emphasize tropical fruits, some quince, refined minerality, and good acidity enhancing a long, clean finish. This is a wine for a lot of foods and seasons. Balanced fruit and acidity make a gratifying wine experience. Done in stainless steel. Serve moderately cool, about 55-60F, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Stone crab claws with mustard mayonnaise; soft-shell crab in brown butter with slivered almonds; oysters with lemon (raw or roasted); king crab legs with drawn butter and lemon; poulet à la crème; baked or steamed salmon with hollandaise sauce; chicken pot pie; oysters with lemon; Asian fish or chicken dishes with not too much spice heat; creamy mild cheeses. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $20.00 Roederer Estate Brut NV Review Date - 7/1/2012 Score - 93 Tasting Note: California’s Anderson Valley is home to several sparkling wine makers, including this French opreaetion, which has been in Anderson Valley since 1982, producing its first brut NV in 1988. Its first vintage of L’Ermitage, which is fabulous with Brennan’s reamy Creole French onion soup, was the 1993. This sparkling wine is an exceptional value. One might almost take it for a French Champagne. Its greenish yellow color reveals that it’s front loaded with Chardonnay (60%), with Pinot Noir making up the balance. From the moment your pour this chilled until the last drop that has warmed up in the glass, you have your palate singing like a choir. Aromas of toasted nuts, pear and ripe (Fuji) apple prepare lead to complex flavors (pear, spice, apple) backed up by zingy acidity. Pour the wine into a regular white wine glass, and the aroma of honey emerges. Serve slightly chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C, in either flutes or white wine glasses, the latter preferred. Suggested Food Pairings: Likes robust foods, such as sushi rolls with spicy mayo; steak fajitas; smoked or roasted chicken; Memphis-style ribs (probably any kind of ribs); chicken salad with a yogurt/curry paste dressing, apples and toasted almonds; roasted whole fish; roasted mixed vegetables; Asian fare; garlic sautéed shrimp (head-on); crab cakes; sautéed soft-shell crab with brown butter and toasted slivered almonds, chicken pot pie. Skip the caviar; this one’s too rich for it. Distributors: Empire Distributing $20.00 2010 Ferrari-Carano Tre Terre Chardonnay Review Date - 7/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Thanks to its cool climate, derived largely from its proximity to the Pacific Ocean, California’s Russian River Valley is perhaps best known for its Pinot Noir and its Chardonnay, although other grapes do well there, too. This Chardonnay shows the classic lemon-drop character and fine acidity that one finds in most Russian River Valley Chardonnays. The 2010 vintage in Russian River Valley was one of the coolest--if not the coolest--in 50 years, assuring high acidity levels and thus some measure of longevity. Full-bodied, the wine was aged in French oak (more than 50% used) after stainless-steel fermentation. Medium yellow in color, it shows a fine balance between oak and fruit, and oak does not mask the lemon-drop character that shapes both the aromas and the palate profile. Although the wine underwent 95% malolactic fermentation, substantial acidity remains, and the wine is not turned into a bowl of butter. Although the oak is almost at my personal edge, this wine will appeal to a wide spectrum of experienced consumers. Serve cool, about 55-60F/13-15C in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Best acquired by ordering from your favorite retailer, as most of it is on restaurant wine lists. Suggested Food Pairings: Veal stew, such as blanquette de veau; chicken pot pie; creamy chicken al Alfredo; pork tenderloin served pink with mashed potatoes and cream-enriched butter beans; creamy cheeses. Ok with oysters and crab, but not exciting. Distributors: Georgia Crown $34.00 2011 Standing Stone Vineyards Riesling Review Date - 7/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Grapes from a vineyard planted in 1972 craft this Riesling, a grape variety that is among those iconic to New York State viticulture. Most of New York State’s Riesling is planted in the Finger Lakes, as is this one. Vineyards lying along those narrow yet deep glacier-carved bodies of water need to be planted to grape types that take to cool climates. \Showing a medium golden color, this off-dry example has high acidity and low ph, a combination of factors that enhances a sense of dryness. Aromas display delicate ripe fruit characters, focused on citrus (kumquat) and exotic fruits, while the palate brings to bear fleshy tropical fruits (pineapple; papaya). Definitely Riesling, but also definitely a distinctive Riesling, with touches of minerality. Mid palate is fleshy and texturally rich. The good acidity keeps the finish crisp and clean. Moderate alcohol: 11.7%. Moderately chilled is the best temperature, about 55F/13C, and use a tulip-shaped tapered glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken or pork tenderloin with peanut sauce; swordfish crusted in toasted cashews and crushed peppercorns; salt-and-pepper Chinese seafood (squid, shrimp, etc.); Chinese dumplings with ponzu dipping sauce; mild vegetable dishes with chicken or seafood; roast turkey breast; grilled bratwurst with caramelized onions and whole-grain mustard; grilled chicken-apple sausage with caramelized onions and home-style fried potatoes; creamy cheeses. Distributors: Artisan Vines $14.00 2009 Louis Martini Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Review Date - 7/1/2012 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Few names are more iconic of California winemaking than Louis M. Martini. Pater familias Louis M left his native Genoa in 1899 to join his father, already in San Francisco. This was one of the first wineries established in 1993, the year Prohibition was repealed, in St. Helena, Napa Valley. Louis P. took over from his father, and now Michael Martini, who also studied with the great Russian oenologist André Tchelistcheff, makes the wine. This example, from Alexander Valley sources, is a full-bodied dry red wine with an inky-deep purple black color. The complex aromas capture the scent of a tobacco barn, vanilla, cocoa and dark fruit. On the palate, cocoa, black currant (cassis), vanilla (from oak), and silky tannins are most rewarding. The finish just won’t quit. This one could easily be cellared for a good decade, and perhaps longer. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65F/17C, in a medium to large tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Meat terrines; cured meats, such as the sorghum and black pepper salami from The Spotted Trotter, Kirkwood, Atlanta; smoked liverwurst from Patak in Austell; mole poblano; barbecued (smoked) ribs; smoked chicken; prime rib; grilled steak. Killer with dark chocolate flourless tort. Winery suggests risotto with wild mushrooms and wild game. Distributors: Empire Distributing $35.00 2009 Oak Ridge Vineyards Robert Reynolds Zinfandel Review Date - 7/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Lodi, CA, used to be grape grower to the famous, from Robert Mondavi to Jess Jackson. But in recent years the region has developed its own renowned wineries and stepped out from beneath the shadows of the famous among them. Zinfandel is on comfortable turf in this region, which is very warm, and produces big, intense, often jammy wines. This example is a mite more restrained, with, for a Zin, moderate alcohol at 13.5%. Zinfandel’s uneven ripening is part of the reason why its alcohol is often very high. Deeply colored with a purple red hue, this full-bodied red wine is a classic, with aromas of fresh black fruits--plums--and whiffs of dark chocolate. Tannins are amazingly supple for a wine this big, and they nicely frame flavors of spice, plum and cocoa. This is an ideal grilled foods wine for summer, and a fine value into the bargain. Serve at cool room temperature, about 68F/18C, in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst (Patak, Austell); fajitas with steak; refried black bean with melted white American cheese; grilled sausages; smoked chicken; Memphis-style dry-rub ribs; Santa Maria-style barbecue (well-seasoned beef); legume-based dishes. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $13.00 2008 Starry Night Zinfandel Review Date - 6/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Lying about an hour south of California’s capital, Sacramento, Lodi isn’t one of the state’s “glamor” wine growing regions. For decades, though, It grew grapes for the stars, among them Robert Mondavi. In recent times, the region has stepped out on its own, producing some very good wines, but still best known for Zinfandel. Zinfandel tends to be an over-the-top wine, often quite alcoholic with levels rivaling the alcoholic strength of fortified wines. This example, however, comes in around 14%, moderate for most Zinfandels. Vinified in French and American oak barrrels, it shows little of the “boubonish” character one finds in so many, and none of the artificial vanilla extract or heavy caramel character imposed by American oak. Deeply colored, with an opaque purple red color, the wine offers a fresh fruit character that is not often found in Zinfandel, which instead often tends toward dried or cooked fruit flavors. Black fruit characters abound in both aromas and flavors. Tannins are well resolved and silky, and the wine is pretty well balanced, with sweet dark fruits closing the deal. Cool room temperature works best for this one, about 65-65F/13-17C, in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Rough-textured terrines or meat pies; grilled meats (especially lamb, duck, game, steak); Southern barbecue (ribs; pulled pork; barbecued chicken); tamales filled with mole poblano or tacos with pork pibil; black bean cakes; burgers; dark chocolate-covered espresso beans. The winery suggest chocolate-flavored breakfast cereal, but somehow there’s a timing factor to that one that just doesn’t square. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $19.00 2009 Girardet Cellars Riesling Review Date - 6/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: A few white wines can be cellared, among them Riesling. (Chenin blanc is another.) This is an excellent opportunity to taste a Riesling that has aged a bit and developed its profile. From Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, this 2009 Riesling, currently in the Atlanta market, shows a bright greenish straw color, and presents aromas that are classic Riesling, with lots of pear and spiced apple notes. The palate adds hints of quince, with mouthwatering acidity and good minerality. The petrol notes that typically emerge after some aging in Riesling aren’t yet evident here, but that’s ok for some consumers who don’t find that aspect of Riesling appealing. The rest of us will enjoy it now and wait for them to develop. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Cellar at 55F/13C for many more years, perhaps at least another decade. Suggested Food Pairings: Anything with mustard: Grilled bratwurst with caramelized onions and brown mustard; fish poached in beer and served with a mustard Béchamel; chicken thighs or breasts baked on top of Vidalia onions, garlic and sliced potatoes (a great dish for a party); sautéed ocean perch dusted in cornmeal and flour with tartar sauce; fish tacos; Persian chicken dishes on rice; avocado filled with poached chicken or shrimp salad; Thai fish dishes (if not too hot). Distributors: Artisan Vines $20.00 M. Lapierre Raisins Gaulois Beaujolais X Review Date - 6/1/2012 Score - 87 Tasting Note: I confess: I love Beaujolais--the place, the people, the wine, the landscape, the food, the air you breathe--you name it. The irreverent figure on the label of this example belies the seriousness of the winemaking philosophy at this house, and really almost everywhere you go in Beaujolais. Mostly made from Morgon, a cru of Beaujolais, and from vines that average 15 years, this is a light/medium bodied wine showing a bright garnet red color and offering aromas of fresh red fruit. Clean, sweet (not from sugar) fruit defines the palate. It’s simple, not complex, easy on the tannin. Alcohol is moderate, 12.5%. The wine is from the 2010 harvest--founder Marcel Lapierre’s last as he passed away thereafter, leaving duties to his son Mathieu--but it can’t be vintage dated as it’s a Vin de France (sort of like a Vin de Pay, but Beaujolais did away with that designation). So each year’s wine has a Roman numeral on the label to indicate the year in which the grapes were grown. Clever, huh? Serve cool, about 60F/15C in a medium-large tulip-shaped glass. And don’t wax intellectual over it either. Sit by the pool or on a park bench somewhere with a picnic lunch when you drink this, and don’t cellar it either. Suggested Food Pairings: Brunswick stew and barbecue; grilled or roasted chicken; hangar steak; lamb salad; pasta with black olives, feta cheese and sun-dried tomatoes; sandwiches and wraps; tamales; wings; turkey picadillo; meatballs in tomato sauce. Distributors: Northeast Wholesale $13.00 2008 Provenza Rosso Review Date - 6/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: This medium-bodied dry red wine (D.O.C. Garda) is made in a region of Lombardy whose winemaking history goes back to the Etruscans--in other words, it’s pre-Roman. Vineyards and olive trees throw a cover over the hills of this region, and both are important for the region’s agriculture. The grape varieties in this wine are traditional and native: Groppello (40%); Marzemino (20%), Sangiovese (20%) and Barbera (20%). You’ve likely heard of the latter two, but not the first two. Each contributes its own distinctive contribution to the whole. The blend composes a deeply colored, dark red wine (the Marzemino and Barbera grape types) with aromas of spice (the Groippello). The good acidity (Sangiovese and Barbera) and high-profile fruit character (Sangiovese) contribute to the wine’s food companionability. All the dark fruits--plums, black berries--benefit from the acidity. Serve moderately cool, about 65F/17C, in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Silky-textured liver mousse; tacos filled with pork pibil or mole poblano; grilled meats; fried or barbecued chicken; grilled vegetables; vegetable lasagna (eggplant; zucchini; mushrooms; tomato); salami, pasta dishes with tomato, garlic and oilve oil. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $15.00 2010 Monchiero Langhe Arneis Review Date - 6/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Arneis is a white wine grape that in times past was blended with Nebbiolo in the Piemonte, and after that practice was discarded, the grape nearly disappeared. But since the early 1990s, it’s been on a comeback, and now thrives in both the Roero and the Langhe, zones lying on opposite sides of the Tanaro River in the Piemontese province of Cuneo. Langhe is southeast of the river. Ready soon after being fermented in stainless steel, this dry, medium- to full-bodied white wine exhibits a lovely, bright greenish gold color. The aromas offer floral notes, while the palate savors well-evolved white fruit, chalky minerals and a long finish. Chilled to about 55-60F/13-15C, the wine does best in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken pot pie; chicken liver mousse; turkey meatballs with mustard tarragon sauce; fettuccine al Alfredo with chicken; chickpea salad with feta cheese and sun-dried tomatoes; Vidalia onion quesadilla; onion pie; fried mac ‘n’ cheese; baked flounder stuffed with crab meat. Distributors: Artisan Vines $17.00 2010 Falset-Marca Etim Review Date - 6/1/2012 Score - 89 Tasting Note: From Monsant, a D.O in the region of Tarragona, Cataluña, Spain, comes this full-bodied dry white wine made entirely from Garnatxa blanca (as they say in that part of the Iberian Peninsula in the Catalan language). Although the grape is important in selected wite Rhône wines, it’s likely to have originated in northeastern Spain. A mutation of Grenache noir, it then crossed the Pyrenees along with its darker sibling and took root especially in Roussillon, where nearly half of its plantings are to be found today. This full-bodied example is typically high in alcohol (14%), and presents a medium greenish cast overlooking a medium golden color. Aromas focus on citrus zest and fresh green herbs, while on the palate, the wine seems silky--even unctuous--and delivers some heat in the rather long finish Flavors pick up notes of chalky minerality. Even though its alcohol is high, this is a wine that can work well with more substantial summer dishes. For most people, serving it at 50F/10C will be good, but I prefer it a little closer to room temperature. Suggested Food Pairings: Pork rilletes with whole-grain mustard; fried chicken fingers and honey mustard sauce; fried or baked fish with tartar sauce; creamy Vidalia onion casserole; salmon cake with tartar sauce; grilled scallops with lemon aïoli, chicken pot pie. Distributors: Artisan Vines $20.00 2011 Chateau Roustan Rose Review Date - 6/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: If I’ve ever met a wine from Costière de Nîmes that I didn’t like, I’m in solid senior moment territory, because I don’t remember it. Wines from this ancient producing region were enjoyed by the Greeks, and the region is among the world’s oldest for viticulture. Once considered part of Languedoc-Roussillon, it was shifted to the Rhône in 2004 because it lies on the western side of that river and because the wines more closely resemble those of that AOC. Composed of Syrah (40%), Grenache (40%) and Mourvèdre (20%), this example shows a beautiful medium salmon pink color. Aromas hint at red fruits with brown baking spices, a profile that continues on the palate. Clean, crisp and long finished, the wine offers ample opportunities for pairings with food. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled shrimp with mildly spicy (not searing hot) Cajun rémoulade sauce; jambalaya; turkey pico de gallo; tacos and tamales; wraps; grilled wild-caught salmon (Copper River, now in season); pizza with mild sausage; pasta with sun-dried tomatoes, fresh herbs and feta cheese; barbecued chicken or shrimp; wings; grilled ham steak; Brunswick stew; smoked beef brisket. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $14.00 2009 Chateau de Laulerie Comtesse de Segur Montravel Review Date - 6/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Montravel is a sub-appellation of Bergerac, which lies immediately east of Bordeaux. The blend is typically a 50-50 union of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc fermented and aged in barrel., yet the wine is not overcome by the taste of wood.The medium-bodied dry white wine, with a delicate, floral nose, shows a medium yellow gold color. Melon and freshly cut herbs dominate the delicate scent, while fleshy, mouth-filling fruit defines what the palate will experience. The entire experience from start to finish, which is considerable, is clen and crisp. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Pasta with fresh herbs, mild cheese or olive oil and fresh herbs; fresh fish sautéed in butter and olive oil, with capers and lemon; CalyRoadCreamery’s (Sandy Springs) “Big Bloomy,” a white-rind goat cheese; grilled or baked shellfish with lemon; especially scallops. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $22.00 2010 Slowine Rose Review Date - 6/1/2012 Score - 89 Tasting Note: From South Africa’s Western Cape (Overberg specifically), this rosé is made entirely from Shiraz, a grape that’s as important to South Africa as it is to Australia. The bright pink salmon color of the wine appeals to the eye, while the aromas hint at spice--even a bit of white pepper, a classic marker for Shiraz (Syrah)--accompanied by red fruits, especially strawberry and cherry. The palate follows suit, supplying a long and crisp strawberry experience, but reminiscent especially of wild strawberries. This is a dry rosé, and the Shiraz even leaves the sensation of tannin along the front teeth--just like a full-throated red wine. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C or maybe even a notch warmer. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled shrimp with Creole rémoulade sauce, turkey picadillo; meatballs with tomato mushroom glaze; grilled ham steak; barbecue chicken; red beans and rice; Savannah red rice; chick pea salad with sun-dried tomatoes; tandoori chicken; barbecue beef or pork sliders with mild tomato-based sauce; fried or barbecued chicken; wings (not too hot), Korean and Chinese fare that’s not too spicy. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $14.00 2010 Le Cirque Rouge Review Date - 6/1/2012 Score - 89 Tasting Note: This stalwart red wine from the Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes in southeastern France has what it takes for grilling meats and vegetables outdoors. Made from Carignan (50%), Mourvèdre (25%) and Syrah (25%) grown on vines averaging a half century in age, this full-bodied dry red wine is bold but not choked with oak--it’s unoaked in fact--and only free-run juice is used. The wine shows an opaque garnet red color. Alcohol is substantial (14.5%), and the wine comes off a little hot, but the fruit isn’t impaired. Aromas suggest that herbal character that in this region is called “garrigue,” along with plenty of black fruit (black currant and black cherry). Tannins are soft. Cool the wine to about 65F/17C, and serve it in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Chunky, smoky Brunswick stew; barbecued chicken; smoked beef brisket (pulled and served on sliders); tacos filled with pork pibil (cooked in a banana leaf--specialty of the Yucatán); grilled meats of all kinds, but especially lamb, burgers and steak; grilled vegetables. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $17.00 2011 Cavender Creek Vineyards & Winery Petit Manseng Review Date - 6/1/2012 Score - 89 Tasting Note: A white wine grape, Petit Manseng comes chiefly from southwest France, where it produces the best white wine of any Manseng grape (there is also a Gros Manseng, for example). But it also is grown all the way across to the Languedoc The small, thick-skinned grapes it produces don’t yield a lot of juice, so the flavors tend to be intense. Late harvest versions are great for dessert. Basque immigrants took the grape to Uruguay, along with Tannat. Introduced into Virginia viticulture, it’s working its way south, and now has a new home at a duo of north Georgia wineries, including Cavender Creek. This example is a medium-bodied dry white wine showing a deep golden color. The aromas suggest spice and quince, and introduce intense golden fruit flavors, bringing back the quince and adding some brown spices to the profile. Serve it chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C, and use a medium tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Exotic fare, such as curried chicken salad with green and red peppers; curried seafood (not too much heat, please); tandoori chicken; sweet potato or butternut squash ravioli with brown butter and toasted pine nuts. Distributors: Cavender Creek Vineyards $26.00 2010 Grandi & Gabana Pinot Grigio D. O. C. Latisana Review Date - 6/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Although Pinot Grigio from other regions is very popular, the best of the lot come from those zones that are in colder areas so the wines develop acidity. That’s the case with this example, which comes from the Friuli in northeastern Italy, specifically a zone called Latisana, which dates at least to the 11th century. The vineyard sits just 30 feet above sea level, the sea in this instance being the Adriatic. One almost has a foot in Slovenia. Pinot Grigio, a/k/a Pinot Grigio or Grauburgunder, is a mutation of Pinot Noir, so some grapes (and the resulting wines, may come off coppery in color or even light pink. Not this one, which exhibit’s a medium deep greenish gold color. Aromas present well evolved white fruits, while the palate enjoys a refined mature fruit profile, good minerality and good acidity along with moderate alcohol (12.5%). Serve chilled, but not frosty, at about 55F/13C, and you’ll taste all the grape does it for you. Suggested Food Pairings: Taramosalata on unsalted potato ships; crab cakes, fried oysters, scallolps or calamari with lemon aïoli; sautéed mild white fish or fish & chips, with homemade tartar sauce; pasta salad with goat feta, sun-dried tomatoes and herbs; mild grilled, baked or sautéed fish with fresh herbs and lemon;; poached, chilled chicken breast with lemon aïoli or lighty curried mayonnaise; turkey meatballs with mustard tarragon sauce; creamy shrimp salad; smoked salmon salad; mild white rind cheeses (such as CalyRoad Creamery’s WayPointe, a cow’s milk camembert-style cheese made in Georgia). Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $15.00 2010 Vignerons du Sommierois Bastille Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 5/1/2012 Score - 85 Tasting Note: This wine is an I.G.P. (Indication Geographique Protégée) Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays d”Oc (the land of Yes in the [pro-van-sal] language pronounced van d pay-ee dawk). The grape gets a gentle treatment here, so there’s little of the grapefruit or the “pipi du chat” character that you’ll find in Sauvignon Blanc wines from other regions of France. Instead, this is a sort of “one size fits all” Sauvignon Blanc, with the merest hints of the grape’s typical character in a clean, well made wine that’s fine for broad market purposes. Greenish highlights brighten a medium pale yellow color. Aromas are rather shy, but the palate supplies a pleasant, clean fruit character, with the slightest whiff of white grapefruit. Moderate acidity and alcohol make it a good choice for gatherings. While it’s not going to set the wine world on fire any time, it’s well made and a good value. Serve moderately chilled, about 50F/10C. Suggested Food Pairings: Oysters with lemon; seafood-stuffed ravioli with olive oil and garlic, fresh herbs; fresh cod or other mild fish in “salsa verde” Spanish style (garlic, green herbs, minced); head-on shrimp in garlic, olive oil, butter and white wine; grilled, chilled Vidalia onion (whole) with grilled fish or chicken; shrimp salad with lemongrass; cocktail crab cakes; grilled calamari salad with bell peppers and onions, lemon juice vinaigrette. Distributors: Ultimate Distributors $10.00 2010 Laurent Miquel Pere et Fils Chardonnay Review Date - 5/1/2012 Score - 87 Tasting Note: The greenish medium gold color marks this as a Chardonnay, and indeed it is 100% of that grape fermented in stainless steel, no oak at all. The wine is an I.G.P. Vin de Pays d’Oc. Clean, pure fruit aromas and flavors mark this great value wine as a well done example of what the region can produce. Pear and white melon are the hallmarks of both aromas and flavors, and the finish is long and crisp, with good acidity keeping the palate clean. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Terrific value; great for pool parties. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled shrimp or scallops, tartar sauce or lemon aïoli; grilled calamari salad with julienned bell peppers and sweet onion, lemon vinaigrette; grilled or fried chicken; shrimp salad with lemongrass; sautéed mild fish with lightly curried panko crumbs; goat Gouda. Distributors: Empire Distributing $10.00 2010 Les Vignerons du Val d’Orbieu Les Deux Rives Corbieres Blanc 2010 Review Date - 5/1/2012 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Grenache Blanc (60%) lays the foundation for this medium-bodied white wine, with Marsanne (20%) and Roussanne (20%) making up the balance. From Corbières, an AOC, the wine shows a pale greenish yellow color, and presents aromas of fresh stone fruit with a definite peach character--tilting to white peach. Beautiful freshness attends the fruit flavors on the palate, and the finish is long and attractive. Fruit and acidity find good equilibrium. This cooperative enterprise makes not only a white, but also a rosé and a red. The two rivers referenced in the name are the two banks of the 17th-century Canal du Midi, which, with the Canal de Garonne, connected the Mediterranean to the Atlanta, an important route for shipping goods (including wine). Beginning in the city of Toulouse, today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Serve moderately chilled, about 50F/10C to best capture the fruit flavors. Quite good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled chicken and peach salad on greens; mussels in white wine sauce and garlic; smoked trout spread on crackers; roast pork tenderloin with peach chutney and baked sweet potatoes or with baked Vidalia onions stuffed with sweet potato purée; baked, breadcrumb-stuffed sea trout; fried chicken; sautéed crab cakes; head-on shrimp sautéed with garlic and white wine. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $11.00 2010 Les Vignerons de Tautavel Vingrau Le Cirque Grenache Gris Review Date - 5/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: This large cooperative is dedicated to this, as they say, “rare rediscovered variety” called Grenache Gris (gre-nash gree). Medium bodied, the wine shows a greenish yellow straw color, with aromas that present fresh fruit and fresh herbs. This is another Vin de Pays, but from the Côtes Catalanes. On the palate, acidity and fruit--white melon and citrus zest (white grapefruit)--operate in harmony, and the finish is long and clean. Simple and unpretentious, the wine is perfect for warm summers around the pool. Don’t overchill--a huge mistake as the wine is too delicate for this sort of abuse. Stick with about 55F/13C. Perfect for around the pool. Fine value. Suggested Food Pairings: Old-fashioned French onion dip and unsalted or low salt potato chips (Kettle brand); smoked trout dip; chicken croquettes; chick peas with herbs and feta cheese in a light vinaigrette (excellent pairing); creamy goat cheese blended with fresh herbs and vegetables (crudités) for dipping; oysters; mussels (cooked in white wine, garlic and herbs, then chilled and dabbed with freshly made mayonnaise); tiny crab cakes; seafood-stuffed ravioli with oil, butter and fresh herbs; scallop carpaccio with extra virgin olive oil, Meyer lemon, sea salt; gnocchi with butter and herbs. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $16.00 2011 Villa des Anges Old Vines Rose Review Date - 5/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Rosé isn’t necessarily a wine you pump prose about; it’s a wine you sit back and enjoy. Take a load off. Traditionally associated with warmer weather enjoyment, rosé is kicking off the chains of convention, so feel good about enjoying it any time of the year. Most should be drunk young, and not too chilled. This example, made entirely of stainless steel-fermented Cinsault, comes from vines that average 35-40 years of age. It is a Vin de Pays d’Oc. The pretty pink color begins the appeal, picked up by the red fruit aromas--strawberry, red currant==that also inform the palate. A bit of brown spice lifts the finish. An excellent expression of the genre, this wine will obliterate any memory you may have of “blush” wines, which are a completely different beast. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C. Don’t overchill this one so you capture all the fruit nuances. Great value. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked chicken; creamy chicken liver mousse; bacon-wrapped grilled chicken livers; bacon-wrapped large shrimp or scallops, black bean stew with corn and tomatoes; potato, tomato, kale stew; fajitas. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $14.00 2009 Domaine de la Ferrandiere Cabernet Sauvignon Review Date - 5/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: This Vin de Pays d‘Oc, from an estate that lies between Corbières and Minervois, two of the region’s best known AOCs, and just 25 miles from the Mediterranean, is a deeply extracted, inky dark ruby red wine with a purple edge that’s made entirely from Cabern et Sauvignon. The aromas focus on dark fruits, with subtle hints of their having been baked. Easy, intense, deep fruit with supple tannins tell the tale of the grapes’ having been macerated for 12 days at cold temperatures. Juicy but not jammy, the wine delivers on the palate with tempered alcohol, direct and easy-to-quaff fruit and a moderately long finish with notes of cured tobacco. Serve coolk about 60F/15C in large tulip-shaped red wine glasses. Excellent value. Keeps well once opened. The 2010 vintage should be available shortly. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled sausages; cured meats (black pepper sorghum salami from The Spotted Trotter; prosciutto from the Pine Street Market); roast duck or Chinese duck; lamb strew; grilled lamb shoulder chop; mild cheeses; chocolate. Distributors: Specialty Wines $12.00 2009 Cuvee de Pena Rouge Review Date - 5/1/2012 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Part of the Languedoc-Roussillon,, the Department known as Pyrenées-Orientales (peer-en-aee or-eee-en-tahl) was part of Catalan-speaking Spain until the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659. Its capital is Perpignan. Wine growing is a significant part of the agriculture, with red wines being dominant. This medium-bodied example, from a cooperative, shows the classic varieties in the blend: Grenache (40%); Syrah (40%); and Carignan (20%). Aromas and flavors show dark fruits--black cherry--with scattered smoky characters, some black olive--and a reasonably long finish. Very soft tannins. This is not wine to be discussed or dissected, but to be drunk with friends with simple but full-flavored foods. You won’t see angels in the glass, but you will have a nice time sharing this with friends and a pizza. Very fine value. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured terrines with mushrooms and game; Korean beef dishes; barbecued rips, smoked brisket; legume-based dishes; grilled sausage; portobello mushroom pizza; winery suggests ratatouille among other fare, and I’d bet on it with Catalan escalivada, a layered dish of tomatoes, eggplants and garlic, not unlike ratatouille. I didn’t think it did much for steak, but the winery says it’s good with burgers. Distributors: Empire Distributing $15.00 2009 Mas des Dames La Dame Review Date - 5/1/2012 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Coteaux de Languedoc (co-tow-d lang-eh-dock) assembles a collection of regions from Pic-Saint-Loup (peek-san-loo) extending north of Montpellier to Quatorze just east of Perpignan and close to “The Med.” This example, from an estate (“Mas”) that dates to the mid 18th century, is deeply extracted with a lovely violet-edged purple color, and blends the usual varieties: Grenache (40%); Carignan (40%); Syrah (20%). Aromas project dark fruits, with a slight hint of dried savory herb. Well balanced with silky tannins and a boatload of flavor--a nice hit of brown spice adds complexity--it’s the kind of great value red wine that brings you back time and again to this region. Smooth and silky, the tannins promise some ability to keep this wine vibrant if it’s well cellared, so think about storing some for the near term,, say over the next 5-7 years or so. Right now, it has a solid core of dark, sweet French fruit. The word “Mas” in this instance means “estate“. Suggested Food Pairings: Terrines and similar rough-textured classic french; steak (was great with my rib-eye); ribs; mole; Korean beef; Vietnamese “Shaking” beef; prime rib; smoked brisket; grilled sausage; sweet Ivan. A good range of meats on the grill. Distributors: Ultimate Distributors $19.00 2009 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Chateau d' Aussieres Corbieres Review Date - 5/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Located near Narbonne in Corbières, this estate goes back to the Roman era and has been part of the Rothschild (Lafite) portfolio since 1999. A blend of several classic varieties, Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre, this full-bodied dry red wine provides balance, depth and grace, with black fruits unhampered by any aggressive oak. In fact, oak, fruit and tannin, plus acidity, are in perfect lockstep. See if you can find any of the aromas of classic “garrigue” a wild herbal character that perfumes the air there. Needs decanting about 30 minutes before being served slightly cool (about 65F/17C) in large tulip-shaped glasses. Able to be cellared for another few years if stored properly (on its side in cool circumstances). Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured terrines with wild mushrooms; potted meats (rilletes); roast duck; all grilled red meats; legume-based dishes; casserole of rabbit, hunter style (tomatoes and mushrooms); game (would love to try this with wild boar); firm, aged cheeses. Distributors: Georgia Crown $35.00 2008 Chateau du Donjon Grande Tradition Review Date - 5/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Minervois (mee-nair-vwah) is one of the most well known of the AOCs in Languedoc-Roussillon with a wine-growing history that’s among the region’s oldest. Composed of Syrah (40%), Grenache (40%) and Carignan (20%), this full-bodied dry red wine is unoaked. From the aromas through the palate, primary black fruits dominate, and the wine is well structured with ripe, silky tannins and a fine richness that isn’t over the top. The substantial alcohol (14.5%) manages to stay well in check, with just a bit of heat getting through. Decant about 30 minutes before serving at cool room temperatures, about 65-68F/17-19C, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Very fine value. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured terrines with wild mushrooms; wild mushroom ragoût; fricassee of duck; grilled red meats; ground lamb casserole with mashed potatoes on top; rilletes; confit; legume-based dishes; lamb tagines; grilled lamb sausage (mergez); mild, well-aged cheeses. Distributors: Empire Distributing $14.00 2010 Chateau Puydeval Rouge Review Date - 5/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: A blend of Cabernet Franc (58%), Syrah (28%) and Merlot (14%) shapes a medium-bodied deeply extracted red wine with an inky purple red color. This is an I.G.P vin de pays d’Oc. Aromas and flavors focus on black fruits with touches of spice. Fermentation was carried out with indigenous yeasts, and barrel aging was done in both American (the Merlot) and French oak, but the oak doesn’t overwhelm fruit. Tannins are soft, and the rich fruit keeps its mind on the finish. Big but not jammy, the wine handles its 14% alcohol quite capably. Vines average about 25 years, and the wine is unfiltered--a move that protects flavors. Serve moderately cool, about 65F/17C, in a large tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured terrines with meat and mushrooms, called forrestière (this was an excellent pairing); grilled sausages, steak and lamb chops, Moroccan lamb dishes (tagines); pasta with meat sauces; roast duck; goat Gouda or other semi-firm mild aged cheese, dark chocolate. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $19.00 2010 Mont Tauch Le Dog de Roselyne Rose Review Date - 5/1/2012 Score - 85 Tasting Note: A cooperative based in Tuchan, in Languedoc, Mont Tauch produces wines from both Corbières and Fitou AOCs, plus Vin de Pays and Vin Doux Naturel This is a 100% Syrah Vin de Pays d’Oc rosé, and it exhibits a lovely deep fuchsia color, while the aromas hint at red fruits--strawberry predominately. Soft and not particularly intense, the wine is a likely to enjoy a wide following especially among young wine enthusiasts. The cooperative is dedicated to sustainably produced wines, and the wines in this “Le Dog” series help the Greg Biffle (NASCAR driver) Foundation in its efforts to control canine populations and shift animals to non-euthenising shelters. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C. Suggested Food Pairings: Nothing too spicy, Grilled shrimp with Creole rémoulade (hold the heat); Creole barbecued shrimp; shrimp salad stuffed into tomatoes; grilled calamari salad; sautéed mild fish (halibut; cod); ham salad; ham croquetas; smoked pulled pork; grilled pimento cheese sandwich. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $12.00 2009 La Scolca Gavi White Label DOCG Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 93 Tasting Note: The grape for Gavi is Cortese, chiefly grown in the Piemonte in Alessandria and Asti, although it also appears in Lombardy and in the DOC white wines of the Veneto from Bianco di Custoza, a personal favorite that I haven’t seen in this market in many a moon. Well documented, Cortese goes back to at least the mid 17th century. The vines range in age from 20 to 30 years old. This example, like most, exhibit’s a pale straw color and aromas and flavors of white melon and pear with fine minerality. The finish presents a stoniness that enhances the complexity. Delicate and dry, it shows crisp acidity and is happily sipped by itself or goes with food. Vinified in stainless steel and aged on the lees, it shows its breeding in both aromas and flavors. Suggested Food Pairings: Oysters whether raw, roasted or steamed with lemon or fried with a lemon aïoli; fried onion rings with a spring garlic and pea tendril tartar sauce (tasted at Sprig Restaurant & Bar/Decatur); smoked trout dip with unsalted potato chips; grilled and chilled scallops or grilled head-on shrimp with Meyer lemon aïoli; soft-shell crabs (now in season) sautéed or fried; grilled sardines (get fresh ones at Buford Highway Farmers Market) with fresh lemon; grilled trout stuffed with herbs and pancetta. Distributors: Georgia Crown $22.00 2010 S. Michael-Eppan Pinot Bianco Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: This large cooperative with 350 members was founded in June 1907 in the Alto Adige, or South Tyrol, Italy‘s most northern region that until the end of World War I was part of Austria. Although a cooperative, it was selected as the 2000 Winery of the Year by Gambero Rosso. Among the many varieties vinified is Pinot Bianco, done in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fresh fruit character the wine exhibits. This is a medium- full-bodied, dry white wine with a bright green-hued yellow color. Lively fresh fruit aromas and flavors are focused on white fruits (pear, apple and white melon) with some citrus notes. The smooth, silky texture is balanced by striking minerality and fine acidity, contributing to its utility with food. Tasted at Cucina Asellina in Midtown. Suggested Food Pairings: Fried or grilled calamari with tartar sauce or lemon aïoli; pizza bianca; poached, chilled chicken breast with a trace of homemade mayonnaise across a bed of greens; grilled whole fish (fresh sardines, trout) with fresh herbs and lemon; mild cheeses. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $18.00 2008 Sant Elena Traminer Aromatico delle Venezie Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Traminer or Gewürztraminer is as much a wine of northern Italy as it is of Alsace or Germany. Showing a deep medium gold in color, this full-bodied dry white wine emits all the classic characters of Gewürztraminer--from lichi nut to rose petal to spice. On the palate, your first impression is one of fleshy texture followed by juicy, spicy Golden Delicious apple and pear fruit. Blessed with good acidity and a long finish, this is a classic of the genre and no less appropriate for being Italian. Gewürztramner with good acidity can age, and this one is a fresh today, almost four years after harvest, as it was the day it was made. The 2008 is the current vintage. Suggested Food Pairings: Light curry chicken or seafood salad; pork tenderloin with mustard cream sauce; grilled apple sausage with whole-grain mustard, roasted cabbage and mashed potatoes; roast turkey with bread stuffing or cornbread dressing and gravy; wild sock-eye salmon with Thai curry coconut panko crumbs; sweet-potato-stuffed baked Vidalia onion; Reblechon or other well-aged, ripe cheese--try it with Georgia’s Nature’s Harmony “Harmony Encore” from Elberton. Distributors: Vinifera $21.00 2009 Valdinera Bricco della Quaglia Favorita Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: From the Piemonte, this is likely a grape you’ve not heard of: Favorita, which may have originated in Spain and might be a cousin of Vermentino. Chiefly planted in the Roero near Alba on the left bank of the Tanaro River, some vines, including those that produced this example, are planted on the right bank of the river in the Langhe hills. Like Arneis, it was used until the 20th century to soften the tannins in Nebbiolo, but no longer, so it has become endangered. Done in stainless steel, this is a medium-bodied wine with a medium yellow color. Quite aromatic, the wine conveys the scent of lemon and lemon blossoms, and lemon continues to shape the palate, with emerging lemon zest as the wine finishes, enhanced by a fine thread of acidity. This wine may be cellared for a short while thanks to its acidity and low ph. Enjoy it at cool room temperatures, about 60F/15C in a medium tulip-shaped glass. Producer claims is organically grown. Suggested Food Pairings: Lobster; crisp breaded flounder with tartar sauce; pan-sautéed head-on shrimp with garlic; crab legs; scallop carpaccio with Meyer lemon, sea salt, olive oil and arugula; oysters (raw or steamed) with lemon; pasta with fresh herbs and lemon zest or with spinach and feta cheese; onion rings; unsalted potato chips with taramosalata; chicken wings with sesame seeds and ginger; roast herbed turkey breast. Distributors: Artisan Vines $19.00 2010 Bigi Orvieto Classico Amabile DOC Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Tasted at the High Museum of Art Wine Auction trade show, the wine is a medium sweet white wine--the term “amabile” denotes some sweetness--made near Orvieto in Umbria, Italy, the only landlocked region in central Italy. It’s made from a blend of native white Italian grapes: Trebbiano; Grechetto; Drupeggio; Malvasia Bianca and Verdello. Trebbiano and Grechetto must, in fact, form 60% of the blend at least, while the balance may draw from other white wine grapes so long as they are able to be planted within the Classico zone. Orvieto DOC is only white wine, and may be either dry or sweet; the sweet version may well be the older of the two. Showing a bright pale yellow color, the wine emits heady aromas suggesting white tree fruits (pear) and a well-defined note of bitter almond that’s so often found in white Italian wines. Moderate acidity and alcohol. Fermentation is in stainless steel, so the fruit character is untouched by oak. Terrific value. Serve cool, about 50F/10C. First one I’ve seen in this market in a long time. Suggested Food Pairings: As soon as I tasted this, I ran for the cheeses: triple creams or gorgonzola dolce with fruit (low acid fruit as the acidity isn’t very high in the wine, so pears, also spicy dishes with shellfish (shrimp, scallops) or chicken; for dessert with a simple cookie or a fruit or custard tart, but not too sweet. Distributors: General Wholesale $11.00 2010 Demarie Langhe Arneis Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Arneis is an ancient grape, one that nearly vanished once Piemonte winemakers were no longer using it to blend with Nebbiolo. Most typically grown in the Roero region of the Piemonte northwest of Alba, the grape began a resurgence in the 1980s, and from only two producers in the 1970s, now there are some 1500 acres as of 2006 planted to the grape. It’s also found in California (Seghesio) and Oregon. (Ponzi). Difficult to grow, it’s name means “little rascal.” This medium- full-bodied example shows a medium pale yellow with slight greenish tones. Beautifully fragrant, with aromas of yellow stone fruits, the wine presents a complex fruit-rich palate, with ripe pears and white stone fruit flavors. The characteristic toasted almond note that so many white Italian wines offer Is here in abundance. Pleasing, too, is the wine’s texture, silky and soft, and its long finish positively mouthwatering. Suggested Food Pairings: Raw, steamed or roasted oysters with lemon; grilled whole fish with lemon, baked white fish, especially flounder stuffed with crab meat; sautéed fresh cod in salsa verde (fresh herbs, lemon and butter/olive oil); sautéed soft-shell crab with brown butter and almonds; seafood salads; pasta with herbs and cream or tossed with rcreamy herbed cheese (Boursin). Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $17.00 2009 Feudi della Medusa Albithia Vermentino di Sardegna Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: The limestone soils of this vineyard in Sardinia (Sardegna), an island province of Italy in the Mediterranean and the second largest island in the Mediterranean, grow this Vermentino grape. Vermentino, also grown in North Carolina at Raffaldini in the Swan Creek AVA, goes by many different names, including Pigato (Liguria and Corsica), and in Piemonte as Favorita (see above). Increasingly, it’s grown in Languedoc-Roussillon, where it’s called Rolle. This example, a medium-bodied dry wine, presents aromas that suggest wet, warm mineral-rich stones and chalk. Complex with fresh fruit characters that are well evolved, a substantial and broad mid-palate, and a super long finish that doesn’t let up on the chalky minerality, this is a wine of broad appeal. All done in stainless steel, the wine one could be cellared under top-inotch circujmstances for 6-8 years following the vintage. Don’t overchill. Suggested Food Pairings: Taramosalata or smoked trout dip/pâté on unsalted potato chips; hummus; raw, roasted or steamed oysters with lemon; oyster casserole; chicken pot pie. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $26.00 2010 Conti degli Azzoni Avogadro Carradori Grechetto I.G.T. Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Sounds like Greek? That’s because it IS Greek, in origin. Central Italy is where you’ll find Grechetto most widely planted, especially in Umbria, where it is used in DOC Orvieto. Chiefly it’s a blending grape, especially with Trebbiano and Verdello, but some varietal wine is produced. Resistant to downy mildew, it can endure until late in the season, so winds up in a good bit of vin santo. It plays a major role in Orvieto. This medium-bodied example, a dry white wine from the Marche (Marshes), shows a deep golden color with greenish hints. While the aromas are fairly shy, hinting at chalky minerals, the palate offers intriguing chalky minerality, stylish, well-evolved fruit, good acidity and a medium-long finish. Mouthwatering, this is a wine for heftier dishes. Don’t get it too cold, about 60F/15C will do it nicely. Suggested Food Pairings: Heftier fare: whole veal shank roasted then braised or roast chicken with mashed potatoes and natural jus; layered onion/potato casserole; roast turkey with scalloped potatoes; chicken pot pie; baked fish and mashed potatoes. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $16.00 Valdo Prosecco Brut DOC NV Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: The grape we always called Prosecco since 2009, when the DOCG for the region was approved, has been renamed Glera. It‘s an old grape, perhaps going back to Roman times, that may have originated in a village named Prosecco in the province of Trieste. Although still versions do exist, the grape is typically used to make the sparkling wine we continue to call Prosecco. Made entirely from the Glera grape, the wine offers moderate alcohol (12%) and 12 grams per liter of residual sugar, which puts just a notch below the 15 g/l threshold for brut. In this example, which shows a pale yellow color, the quite tiny bubbles maintain a persistent thread or bead. As the wine opens in the glass, the soft fruity fragrance becomes more intense, and the clean, pure fruit flavors show alluring Golden Delicious apple and pear notes. The acid/fruit balance seems perfect. The winery recommends serving at 45F/6-8C, but I find that way too cold, and prefer 55F/13C. Use a flute if you prefer, although a white wine glass is perhaps even better. Superior value. On the wine list at 246 in Decatur. Suggested Food Pairings: Cocktail fare, such as bruschetta with seafood; sushi (but not with oily fish such as mackerel); tempura; shrimp salad with dill and capers; scallop carpaccio with lemon and olive oil, sea salt; grilled squid salad with marinated onion strips and thin strips of green pepper; Asian dumplings (shumai) with Ponzu dipping sauce and other dim sum; Not good with pungent cheeses, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano. Distributors: Georgia Crown $11.00 2010 Altadonna Grillo I.G.T. Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: From Sicily, Grillo is a white grape that handles well the heat of its home turf and is among the white wine grapes used to make Marsala (along with Inzolia and Catarratto). Cool breezes temper the heat, and Mt. Etna lends volcanic elements (and thus minerality) to the soil and thus to the wine. This is a medium-bodied dry white wine with moderate alcohol (12.5%) and a lovely light lemon yellow color. Aromas hit on notes of fresh herbs, citrus (especially lemon) and white stone fruits, while on the palate fresh fruit characters and an intriguing sea salty tang in the finish lift the entire tasting experience with a refreshing zing. The wine is vinified and aged briefly in stainless steel plus a month in bottle, so it’s fresh and lively. If you want a white wine that fairly sings of spring and summer, this is it. Let the good times roll!! Tasted at the High Museum of Art Wine Auction. Repeatedly. This will be in my summer stash. The 2011 vintage will roll into the market in June. Suggested Food Pairings: Simple grilled seafood and fish; composed salads; fried calamari with lemon aïoli; sushi and sashimi; Spanish ensaladilla rusa (vegetables with a mayonnaise-based dressing and sometimes tiny shrimp); scallop carpaccio with olive oil, Meyer lemon and sea salt. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $15.00 2010 Corte del Sole Soave Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Soave is a white Italian wine that many consumers disdain as we were accustomed to cheap plonk sold under that name, and that frankly did damage to the genre. But there are good examples to be found in many places, and this is one of them. Made entirely from Garganega, the wine is fermented in stainless steel. Medium-bodied with a bright greenish gold color, the wine exhibits clean, mineral-rich aromas with hints of almonds that carry through to the palate. Expect bright, lime-kissed fruit flavors with good acidity that prolongs the finish. Mouthwatering. A good food wine, this is one that you’ll want to keep handy for the hot summer days that almost surely are in our immediate future. A great value, too. Serving temps: Winery recommends 50-54F/10-14C, but I think that’s a little too cold. The almond characters emerge when the wine warms up to about 55-60F/10-15C. Suggested Food Pairings: Shrimp or crab cakes; calamari with lemon aïoli; pan-grilled shrimp in the shell with white wine and garlic (use this one); grilled, medium-rare scallops; scallop salad with fresh herbs; any seafood salad; pistachio-crusted flounder; grilled rainbow trout stuffed with fresh herbs, with grilled lemon halves; goat cheese with minced fresh herbs; poached seafood sausages with beurre blanc; fried oysters. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $11.00 2010 Ciavolich Pecorino I.G.T. Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 93 Tasting Note: In this instance, Pecorino isn’t a cheese; it’s an ancient and nearly vanished grape type grown in Abruzzo (as is this example) and the Marche, chiefly. Thought to have disappeared, the grape was found growing wild in the latter region, where sheep liked to nibble on it--perhaps thus the cheese? Who knows? Anyway, we’re after the grape, and the wine made from it by this 150-year-old family-owned winery. Even though young, it shows a bright deep greenish gold color. Medium- to full-bodied, it exhibits aromas and flavors that capture tropical fruit characters with some herbal characters in the aromas. Pineapple, melon, toasted hazelnuts, citrus and a sort of salty element in the finish get tangled with a good bit of acidity. This is a unique experience, so savor it in a large tulip-shaped glass with a slightly closed top to capture aromas. This is one white wine that definitely should NOT be served cold; cool room temperature is just right, about 60F/15C. Suggested Food Pairings: Shrimp cakes; lightly curried chicken or seafood salad; pasta with goat cheese and toasted hazelnuts and breadcrumbs, olive oil; chicken pot pie; chicken fritters/croquettes with honey mustard dipping sauce; Winery suggests mushroom-based dishes, then if letting a bottle age then having it with foie gras, pâté; blue-veined cheeses; liver mousse. Apparently when aged, the wine adds honey notes, apricots and hazelnuts. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $30.00 2010 Grandi & Gabana Bianco dello Stella Review Date - 4/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: From the Venezia Giulia region in northeast Italy, almost to the Slovenian border, this dry white wine is 60% Friulano (the new name for former Tocai Friulano) and 40% Malvasia Istriana. The latter grape may come from Turkey originally, but Istria is that peninsula that hangs down from Trieste and forms art of Slovenia and Croatia as it extends into the Adriatic. Malvasia Istriana is one of the oldest grapes in the Friuli, and contributes the bright greenish yellow color to the wine, along with a fair share of apricot and almond. The Friulano grape contributes the lemon/pear characters and the acidity. There’s a touch of dried herb in the palate as well. The long, clean finish is quite appealing. Overchilling this wine is a huge mistake. At about 60F/15C, the almond character becomes quite prominent, and as it’s very delightful, it shouldn’t be missed. Use a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass with a slightly inward closing opening. Really good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Sautéed soft-shell crab with brown butter and toasted slivered almonds; smoked trout; grilled trout stuffed with herbs; creamy chicken salad; roast chicken; fried calamari with aïoli. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $15.00 2010 Dornier Wines Cocoa Hill Chenin Blanc Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: When the French Huguenots fled France for other corners of the planet, South Africa was one of their destinations. And as we all know, whither the French, thither the vine. Among the vines that made it to South Africa was Chenin Blanc, today that country’s most widely planted grape variety of all types, red or white. A few years ago, vintners were ripping it out, but now, wisely, they’re beginning to claim it and to make it better. This is a fine example, a medium- full-bodied dry white wine (a touch of residual sugar--.25--notwithstanding) showing a medium gold color with greenish highlights. Intense aromas of tropical fruits assemble carambola (star fruit), guava and exotic melon while on the palate those fruit characters join a custard note. Balanced and showing adequate acidity against the fruit, this wine will keep for another year or two if well cellared. Serve at cool temperatures, about 55F/13C in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Nice value and good food wine. Suggested Food Pairings: Fried oysters or calamari with lemon aïoli; raw or roasted oysters with fresh lemon; Asian preparations with seafood, chicken or pork; pollock or similar mild fish rolled in cornmeal or fine polenta and fried, tartar sauce; grilled scallops with rémoulade; Thai salmon with mild red curry; Vidalia onion stuffed with greens and baked; leek or onion tart; mild creamy cheeses (not goat). I rather liked it with baba ganoush from Mediterranean Bakery in Chamblee and smoked trout pâté. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Company $14.00 2010 Alma de los Andes Torrontes Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Torrontés is Argentina’s iconic white wine grape, possibly the result of Muscat de Alejandría mixing it up with the Criolla grape brought by Spanish missionaries. This example is the Torrontés Riojano, one of three clones of the grape and the one most often found in Argentina. As of 2008, it was that country’s most widely planted white variety, mostly in La Rioja and Salta provinces in the north. In fact, in La Rioja, it’s the single most widely planted variety of all grapes, whether red or white. This example shows a medium-deep yellow color, and presents aromas that remind one both of Muscat and of Gewürztraminer, with deep floral characters, lichi nut and spice. On the palate, ripe exoptic fruit characters capture touches of pineapple, fleshy stone fruit; lichi nut and quince. A portion of the wine underwent malolacatic fermentation to take the acidity down a bit and soften the wine; but there’s plenty left for balance. No oak. Voluptuous and exotic are two words that come to mind. Serve lightly chilled to cool, about 55F/13C. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled fish with mango salsa; Thai dishes (Thai eggplant, smoked trout pâté; fried catfish and galangal root slivers; Thai curries with seafood--but not oily fish--or chicken, and not too hot; pork with subtle ginger; pumpkin or butternut squash ravioli with brown butter and toasted pine nuts; Thai chicken with peanuts; green papaya/green mango salad; creamy, rich cheeses. Distributors: Global Wines Georgia $18.00 2009 Man O War Pinot Gris Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: The viticulturally rich islands that lie offshore of Auckland, NZ, (North Island) include Waiheke Island, which lies at the mouth of Waitemata Harbour, one of Auckland’s two harbors. This is a rolling hilly landscape with plenty of vineyards (and bed-and-breakfast inns, restaurants, art and antiques emporia, and miles of beaches dotted with contemporary sculpture). On the island’s eastern end is Man o” War Vineyards, where they have planted grapes for the past 20 years. But other islands nearby also hold their vineyards. This example is grown in Ponui Island, which lies in the Hauraki Gulf, a wide inlet of water east of Auckland and southeast of Waiheke Island. The medium-bodied white wine shows a medium yellow color and aromas that suggest fleshy stone fruit, toasted nuts, and stony minerals. On the palate, fresh clean pure fruit flavors are supported by a bit of residual sugar and good acidity. A slight hint of pink grapefruit closes the experience. Although part of the wine was fermented in new oak, the wine doesn’t show excessive oak characters. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C,and use a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: New Zealand Pinot Gris will handle some spice but not mouth-searing examples. Chinese cold sesame noodles; Chinese fish dishes such as fish and greens; Thai catfish with Thai eggplant and glangal root; vegetable moo shu; curried seafood salad; crabmeat filled Korean pancake. Not good with oily fish, such as salmon. Distributors: Northeast Wholesale $19.00 2010 Tora Bay Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Sauvignon Blanc has much to say all across the Southern Hemisphere, but especially in South Africa (Mulderbosch), Australia and New Zealand. Although New Zealand does many wines very well, among white wines, its icon grape is certainly Sauvignon Blanc. Some consumers will screw up their noses recalling the overt grapefruit character that defined many of them. But more balanced approaches to the grape are coming up these days, such as this Tora Bay Sauvignon Blanc from Martinborough, on the southeastern tip of New Zealand’s North Island. Instead of grapefruit, this full-bodied dry white wine with a bright, medium pale yellow color exhibits aromas of passion fruit and white melon. This gathers steam and a touch of grapefruit as it presents the palate with excellent fruit and a fine acid core. Alcohol is 13.5%, but there’s no heat in the finish, especially if carefully served chilled, about 5-55F/10-13C. Suggested Food Pairings: Shumai with Oriental dipping sauce; vegetable sushi roll (particularly good); Korean seafood pancake; baked flounder stuffed with crabmeat; baked oyster gratin; grilled scallops with tartar sauce; raw or steamed oysters with lemon; Caesar salad with grilled chicken; grilled sardines (Buford Hwy. Farmers Market) with lemon and salt; goat cheese (CalyRoad Creamery in Sandy Springs). Distributors: ConVinum/Eagle Rock $19.00 2008 Durigutti Bonarda Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Argentina’s Bonarda used to be its most widely planted grape before being eclipsed by Malbec, but it’s still solidly in the number two spot. And while many consumers are just now getting their arms--and palates--around Malbec, Bonarda trails in familiarity. Yet there are several producers’ versions in this market. This example is one of the tastiest I’ve come across. From Pablo and Hector Durigutti, the wine is 100% Bonarda. Controversy still surrounds exactly what that grape is, but it almost surely isn’t the Bonarda of the Italian Piedmont. Like this example, Bonarda shows a dark, deep purple red color. Lifted aromas of blueberry and fresh dark fruits greet the nose along with a hint of brown spices. The palate shows rich, complex fresh dark fruits, with a suggestion of blueberry and plum, some firm but not aggressive tannins, and a long, clean finish. Flavors are lush and deep, and there’s a fair acid backbone as well. These vines date to 1955, a fact that at least partially accounts for the wine’s intense flavors. Serve at about 63F/16C. Use a large-bowled tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Game; smoked beef ribs; empanadas filled with beef; roast duck; grilled Cornish hen; grilled lamb steak; dark chocolate-covered fruit. Distributors: Artisan Vines $15.00 2007 Vina Falernia Carmenere Reserva Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Chile’s Elqui Valley lies 323 miles north of Santiago, the country’s capital, and is home to Chile’s northernmost wine estate, Viña Falernia. But the grapes for this wine come from the Limarí Valley, the next region south of Elqui. The fog coming off the Pacific Ocean at night blankets the valley, then withdraws as the sun rises. Semi-arid, with less than four inches of rainfall per year, the valley has seen grape planting since the 16th century. Typical of Carmenere, the wine is full-bodied and very deeply colored, showing an opaque purple red. The grapes were picked late--June--and partially dried, a process that reveals itself in the sweet fruit characters showing in the aromas and in the dark, well-extracted color. On the palate, dark chocolate and spice dominate. Silky tannins evoke ripe fruit. The alcohol is high, 15%, and there is a sensation of heat at the back of the throat. Serve at cool low-to-mid 60sF/16C temperatures. Suggested Food Pairings: Casseroles or pies with meat; dishes with corn (Chile’s pastel de choclo--a corn-based meat pie); curried lamb (but not hot); mole poblano (the chocolate-based mole); smoked beef or lamb; dark chocolate. This sounds crazy, but it’s wicked wonderful with homemade style chocolate chip cookies. Distributors: Unique World Wines $16.00 2008 Bodegas Antigal Uno Malbec Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Once a popular Bordeaux variety, Malbec is important in Cahors, east of Bordeaux, where it’s called Côt, and in Argentina. It’s beginning to be grown in the U.S. as well, from Idaho to Virginia and north Georgia. But Argentine is it’s home away from home. Aged in French and American oak, this big full-bodied red wine, produced in Mendoza in Argentina’s wild west, shows an inky dark rose-rimmed purple color. Aromas present ripe berries with a touch of blueberry, while the palate offers dark berry fruit, plums and cocoa notes. Big but not bruising, the wine offers supple tannins that supply structure, and decent acidity (about .55) helps carry the finish. Alcohol is a mite high, so the wine does show some heat in the close, but rich foods will temper this. Serve cool, about 62-65F/16-17C, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Cured meats and fresh, grilled sausages; pâtés and terrines; meat pies; game; roast duck; roast pork loin with black olives and capers; grilled lamb steak; barbecued pork; meat or vegetable stews; aged cheeses; dark chocolate. Distributors: Georgia Crown $15.00 2007 Vina Koyle Royale Syrah Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Syrah is important all across the Southern Hemisphere, but we often forget to think about it in South America. Chile’s Undurraga family is known for its long history in Chilean winemaking. This associated brand from the Colchagua Valley focuses on red wines, including besides Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chile’s icon Carménère. This Syrah (there also is a Reserva) is a big red wine (14.5% alcohol), and it‘s a blend of 85% Syrah, with Malbec (11%) and Carménère (4%). The winery has also released 2008 and 2009 vintages, but 2007 is in the Atlanta market. That gives us the opportunity to taste a wine that has a bit of maturity, but that still needs decanting to achieve maximum enjoyment. Opaque, black purple red in color, the wine exhibits aromas of cured meats, dried herb and spiice, especially black pepper Silky fruit-derived tannins frame a panoply of flavors, from dark fruits to dried herb and a touch of cocoa powder. The finish is long and satisfying. The high alcohol barely shows, just a trace. Aged in oak for 18 months, the wine is unfiltered (which I like). Serve in a large glass that’s wide at the bottom and tapered at the top. Cellaring at cool temperatures should extend its life another half dozen years. Decanting many hours prior to serving is critical. Due in this market in mid March. Temperature 63-65F/16-17C. Suggested Food Pairings: The Spotted Trotter sorghum and black pepper salami; French-style pepper steak; steak Diane; grilled lamb sirloin steak (cut from the leg at about 1 ½ to 2 inches thick); furred (wild boar; venison) and feathered game (duck); lamb stews; medium dark chocolate. Distributors: National Distributing Company $30.00 2009 Glaetzer Wallace Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Australia has been famous for big, bold, high alcohol, colossal wines that were tough to pair with food. Perhaps that’s part of what has damaged the genre with the American consumer. So distributors have been reluctant to take on much from Australia as it just hasn’t been selling. But this wine shows that perhaps Australian winemakers are beginning to turn their backs on those over-the-toppers in favor of making more elegant, more refined wines. Composed of Shiraz (75%) and Grenache (25%), all coming from the Ebenezer region of Barossa Valley, north of Adelaide. Vines range in age from 60-80 years old, so what little fruit you get is most intense. The wine is full-bodied and deeply colored, showing opaque dark red tones. Initial aromas of meat signal the presence of Shiraz. But the aromas evolve, soon developiong hints of herb that serve as grace notes alongside ample, rich dark fruit. Plum, blackberry and black currant contrive a rich, mouth-filling experience. Fine tannins and good acidity provide the needed framework for the rich fruit. Aromatic baking spices add to the complexity. This is one of the most enjoyable red wines I’ve come across in Australia in a long time. Just delicious. Keep it cool, about 62-64F/16-17C for maximum pleasure. Suggested Food Pairings: All types of grilled and smoked meats; stews; braised beef dishes; meat pies; mild curries with meat; game; roasted meats; duck with figs; dark chocolate. Distributors: Prestige Wine Wholesale $15.00 2009 Rooiberg Pinotage Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Rooiberg, South Africa’s first cooperative winery, is located in Robertson, along the Breede River. Pinotage, a crossing of Cinsault and Pinot Noir, is South Africa’s icon red wine grape, buit it had acquired a negative reputation for a medicinal character that today’s winemaking has sought assiduously to ovoid. While some winemakers today still refuse to work with it, others have embraced it. In this example, there’s not a trace of that medicinal or “band-aid” character. Instead, this medium-bodied red wine shows a dark garnet red color with aromas of dark cherries and flavors that embrace mulberry, dark cherry and brown spices. Very tame tannins lend a tasty frame to these flavors, and the finish is clean, long and full of fruit. Best served cool, about 60F/15C. Due in Atlanta in mid March. Suggested Food Pairings: Salamis, grilled sausages (boerewors); grilled meats; aromatic beef or lamb stews; butter chicken; roasted or grilled Cornish hen or quail; mild curries; roti (Malaysian pancakes filled with curried meats); roasted vegetables; mild blue cheeses (Nature’s Harmony, “Elberton Blue,” from Georgia). Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $30.00 2009 Logan Apple Tree Flat Rose Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Apple Tree Flat is a wine district in Australia that lies southeast of Mudgee, a region in south New South Wales (itself in northern Australia). Think of Sydney on the country’s eastern coast and go north and west Grapes for this wine come from vines that are relatively young, 6-10 years of age, and include Merlot, Shiraz and Cabernet Franc. This wine is all about fruit, and the aromas showcase crisp red apple, red fruits (cherry, raspberry) and red fruit candy. On the palate, a hint of rhubarb accompanies the wine. A brown spice note finishes the experience. The texture is silky and the finish dry, although the fruit sweetness never leaves the palate. Serve moderately chilled about 55F/13C. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled shrimp with tomato dipping sauce; barbecued shrimp or chicken; grilled, smoked or roast chicken, grilled quail or Cornish hen; grilled ham steak brushed with muscadine jam; slightly spicy wings. Distributors: ConVinum/Eagle Rock $22.00 2010 Cousino-Macul Sauvignon Gris Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: On a visit some years back to Cousiño Macul near downtown Santiago, Chile, this then mysterious-to-me varietal was introduced to the assembled writers. I immediately said: When do we get this wine? It took a while, but I’m delighted it’s been in this market a while. Originating in Graves in Bordeaux and arriving in Chile in the 19th century, this white wine grape could easily become Chile’s icon white wine. Medium-bodied with a greenish yellow color, the wine is less aromatic than its sister Sauvignon Blanc but no less appealing nonetheless. You’ll sense aromas of citrus, flowers, pear, white peach, and enjoy those as much as you will the flavors that follow: Citrus zest (grapefruit); a bit of sweet white peach, a good acid backbone, and delicious tropical fruit (banana) at the end. What a long, clean finish!. Even New Zealand is getting into the act. Don’t let it get too cold; 55F/13C is plenty cold enough. Then you get all the flavors. Suggested Food Pairings: Fish, fish and more fish. Fin or shell, doesn’t matter, although I don’t care for it with oily fish. Grilled scallops; crab cakes with tartar sauce; fresh cod with olive oil and fresh minced herbs; pollock or similar mild white fish dredged in crushed pistachios and pan-sautéed; calamari with lemon aïoli; roasted root vegetables daubed with goat cheese; pasta with basil and lemon; Vidalia onion stuffed with sweet potato purée and baked (really yummy); baked chicken breast with lemon and fresh herbs; mild cheeses (Sweet Grass Dairy’s Thomasville Tome). Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $15.00 2010 Felton Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir Review Date - 3/1/2012 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Ok, I confess to being a real fan of Central Otago Pinot Noir. This region of New Zealand’s South Island has become synonymous with the Burgundian grape. Yet many consuem3ers, indeed some folks in the business, don’t associate Pinot Noir with New Zealand. Well, now’s the time. What’s singularly happy about New Zealand Pinot Noir and what makes it distinctive is its savory character, its restrained yet clear, clean fruit. The wine is still a little tight, so it should be decanted about 30 minutes before being served. Aromas are hinting at crushed dried herbs while red fruit characters struggle to emerge, notably raspberry. On the palate, one savors the same dried herb character while fruit takes a background role. The finish is long, long and longer, with hints of pepper. After a while a bit of vanilla joins the pack. There’s none of the earthy composty character one would hope for in a Burgundy. This is a different, distinctive and quite remarkable other animal. Yet clearly Pinot Noir. Felton Road’s winemaker, Blair Walter, also does beautiful Riesling, also from Central Otago, which I wish heartily we might have just once in this market. It’s a long way to Felton Road. Serve cool, about 62-65F;17-18C in a balloon-shaped Burgundy glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Mushroom pastries; wood-smoked beef ribs or pork tenderloin; roasted duck, including Chinese duck; dim sum; lamb; roast chicken; grilled quail or Cornish hen; grilled fish (swordfish; salmon; tuna and even roasted sea bass); firm aged cheeses; dark chocolate. What a wine! Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Foods/National Distributing $50.00 2006 Henrys Drive Reserve Shiraz Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Want a big, bold, breathtaking Shiraz? At almost 16% alcohol, here it is. From Padthaway (meaning “good water” in an Aboriginal language) in South Australia, this Shiraz represents the most widely planted varietal in that coastal region, with about 3000 acres producing that grape alone. Aromas open with black currant, which becomes more prominent as the wine engages with subtle initial hints of mint. Sweet black currant flavors form the foundation of the bold palate experience. The fruit carries the substantial alcohol very well, leaving only a bit of heat in the back of the palate. The wine is barrel fermented in mostly new American oak, with some French and some (20%) one-year-old barrels. Also surprising is the fact that the vines at this point were just 13 years old. Nothing frail about this one, yet the tannins are sweet and the wine well balanced. Use a glass with a wide bottom and a tapered top. Suggested Food Pairings: Spotted Trotter (in Kirkwood) sorghum and black pepper salami; terrines (rough textured); grilled chorizo with figs; duck roasted with mild barbecue sauce and sweet potato-stuffed baked sweet onion or apple; grilled venison or lamb chop; oxtails cooked in Shiraz with bold seasonings (but not hot spices); steak with blue cheese sauce; grilled sausages; dark chocolate slightly melted with gray salt (Hershey’s 60% cacao--OMG). Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $45.00 2010 Grayson Cabernet Sauvignon Lot 10 Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: California is the source of this full-bodied, value-priced Cabernet Sauvignon. Weighing in at about 14% alcohol, the wine exhibits a deep, inky dark color and aromas of black currants and black plums. Silky, juicy, tasty tannins and a long fruit-focused finish add a stylish aspect to this youthful wine. Done entirely in French oak, it is tight and unyielding when first tasted, it opened nicely over the course of several days. If dinner’s tonight, definitely decant for several hours beforehand, or use a Vinituri to aerate the wine to full measure. Very good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Patak’s liverwurst; roast chicken with black bean salsa; Chinese barbecued spareribs; white navy beans with tomato and sage; grilled pork chop; barbecued meat loaf (very good); smoked brisket with tomato-based barbecue sauce; Hershey’s 60% cacao chocolate squares. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $13.00 2009 Klinker Brick Farráh Syrah Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Located in Lodi, CA, Klinker Brick Winery is most widely known for its powerhouse Zinfandels. But there’s nothing puny about this Syrah, either, from vines whose average age is 85 years. Nearly 15% alcohol puts this into the big red wine category. Caramel aromas, the influence of oak, dominate the dark fruit. On the palate, however, the fruit gains the upper hand, revealing plum and brown baking spices vying with oak for attention. Big, dark jam flavors with some residual sugar (.36) supported by good tannins are indeed weighty but don’t suffocate the wine’s ability to pair with food. Suggested Food Pairings: Meat-filled empanadas; pan-grilled spice-rubbed chicken breast (keep the salt and the heat down); meat pies, including pastitsio or moussaka; maybe bobootie?; grilled lamb or duck with five spice powder; Moroccan beef stew; grilled Kielbasa or other spicy sausage; well-seasoned salamis (The Spotted Trotter sorghum and black pepper salami); Hershey’s 60% cacao. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $18.00 2008 Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Touriga Nacional Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 94 Tasting Note: What a wine!!! Big, with 15% alcohol, this Touriga Nacional (a classic Portuguese variety) presents a deep, youthful magenta-edged purple color. Aromatic with an intense, eager perfume that evokes intense fresh black fruits. Lingering ripe, intense, extracted black cherry/blackberry flavors are wrapped in solid but friendly tannins. Over-the-top words come to mind: super ripe; lush; explosive; gripping. Fine depth of flavor. The wine just won’t let go of the palate. Balanced, the wine falls just short of jammy. Downright elegant for a wine this huge. Suggested Food Pairings: Prime rib; spiced brasked oxtails; roast duck; roasted feathered or furred game; coarse-textured terrine with dried dark fruits; big meat pies, such as tourtière especially in the Montreal style with cinnamon and cloves; grilled kielbasa (Pine Street Market, Avondale Estates). Distributors: Artisan Vines $90.00 2006 Gibbons Lane Winery Donedei Merlot Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Washington State does some of America’s best Merlot. Period. While one may think of Merlot as soft and feminine, this example, from a boutique winery near Puget Sound, shows how Merlot can be made in a big and bold style. This one, from grapes grown in the Columbia Valley, is 78% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Cabernet Franc from three important vineyards: Arts; Ciel du Cheval and Kestrel. Production is very small, topping out at about 1000 cases in total annually. A good candidate for long-term cellaring, this is a wine that must be decanted before being enjoyed. Deep, dark garnet-edged purple in color, the wine was aged in both French and American oak. Aromas offer fresh and dried black fruit characters, with the palate picking up suggestions of vanilla, then licorice and iodine emerge. Intense, highly extracted and with layers of flavor, the wine is framed by supple tannins and good acidity. Some heat in the finish does not mar the experience. Suggested Food Pairings: Patak’s liverwurst (the regular surprisingly better than the smoked); roasted vegetables and butternut squash; slow-cooked butter beans (fabulous); oxtails perfumed with allspice; grilled steak (beef or lamb); Chinese roast pork or duck; elk chops; dark chocolate-covered espresso beans and Hershey’s 60% cacao. Distributors: Artisan Vines $38.00 2010 Red Rock Winery Reserve Winemaker's Blend Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Blending Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and a bit of Petitr Sirah, this full-bodied, robust California red wine is made chiefly from grapes grown in Sonoma County. Showing alcohol levels just under 14%, the wine shows a deep, inky dark purple red that predicts the intense dark fruit aromas and flavors to come. Think intensely flavored black fruit jam, and you get a sense of what these aromas are like. The palate engages sweet dark fruit (residual sugar is .75t/l), focused on blackberries and black currants (cassis). Vanilla follows from the aromas through the mid palate to the finish. Suggested Food Pairings: Bresaoloa (air-dried beef); barbecued meat loaf; smoked liverwurst; braised oxtails seasoned with allspice (Jamaican style, from Whole Foods/Johns Creek); Jamaican meat pies; grilled kielbasa (from Pine Street Market in Avondale Estates); steak au poivre; mild cheeses; Hershey’s 60% cacao chocolate. Distributors: Empire Distributing $13.00 2009 Robert Foley Vineyards The Griffin Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: A classic big California red, the wine is composed of power player Petite Sirah (50$), Cabernet Sauvignon (37%) and lush Merlot (13$). Closed and tight when first opened, the wine needs to be decanted well in advance of being served (48 hours was optimal) or use the Vinturi to bring into focus its powerful fruit and spice. Deep, opaque, dark magenta-edged in color, “The Griffin” hits an alcohol evel north of 15%. The wine projects powerful aromas of multiple cocoa-dusted fresh black fruits. On the palate, its texture suggest it’s not been filtered--the less meddling, the better--the dark fruit, cocoa and brown baking spices linger substantially. Tannins are firm, ripe and juicy, perfect framework for the rich fruit. Oak, tannin and acidity are all in harmony. Consider laying this down for a half decade or so if cellaring conditions are good. Suggested Food Pairings: Simple fare: rabbit terrine (Star Provisions); smoked Gouda pasta salad; legume-based dishes (would love this with fabada); prime rib or grilled steak; Hershey’s 60% cacao dark chocolate. Let the wine run the show. Distributors: Hemispheres $50.00 2007 Kuleto Estate Family Vineyards Syrah Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Syrah shows its power in this huge (15% alcohol), full-bodied example from Napa Valley. Dark purple red with a magenta edge, the wine offers heady, intense, well-extracted fruit focused on black plums and black cherry, characters that shape both the aromas and the palate. The wine seems not to have been filtered, so the impression it leaves is a bit of graininess in the texture. Tannins are sweet and fruit derived. Layered, with suggestions of espresso bean and dried fruits, the wine is explosive and lush. There’s 2% Sangiovese blended in. Big but still balanced, this is a wine that will appeal to a girl’s heart, as well as complement her favorite terrine. Suggested Food Pairings: Patak’s liverwurst (regular); rabbit terrine (Star Provisions); crepinettes from the Spotted Trotter; pasta with smoked mozzarella and garlic; barbecued meatloaf (ok, but it’s great with this wine); grilled lamb steak; duck with dried cherries or dried plums; black bean chili with cumin; semi-hard cheeses (Nature’s Harmony Georgia Gold); Hershey’s 60% cacao. Distributors: Empire Distributors $45.00 2009 J Lohr Winery Tower Road Petite Sirah Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 87 Tasting Note: At nearly 15% alcohol, this big boy exhibit’s a nearly opaque purple red color with a well-defined magenta rim. The aromas reveal the use of American oak (coconut) with a hint of rosemary. The American oak settles on the palate, bringing that characteristic coconut extract character into focus. Dried dark fruits (blackberry) and firm but juicy tannins complete the palate experience, with the American oak character running throughout. The finish is long and the tannins tend to dominate. High alcohol shows a bit, but rich foods take care of that. Open and decant vigorously (splashing) if planning this for dinner tonight. Use a large-bowled glass that flares at the bottom and tapers at the top. Only 1,090 cases made, and ordering it from your retailer is the best way to get it. Suggested Food Pairings: The Spotted Trotter dried cherry terrine; The Spotted Trotter black pepper/ sorghum salami; grilled lamb chop; moussaka; barbecued meatloaf; shredded smoked brisket; casserole of ground lamb and yellow squash, seasonings of nutmeg and allspice; grilled pork chop. Distributors: Empire Distributing Co. $15.00 2007 Two Angels Petite Sirah Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: It took this one forever to wake up. Don’t even think about decanting it a couple of hours ahead for dinner. Make it a couple of DAYS. Seriously. And then you might have to run it through the Vinturi. After the bottle I tasted decided to rouse itself and make itself known to my nose and palate, however, I had a right good time with it. The grapes for this inky dark Petite Sirah come from the High Valley AVA in Lake County, northern California. Aptly named, the valley, which runs east-west for nine miles, has elevations ranging from 1600 to 3000 feet. Grapes benefit from marine breezes that slow down ripening and preserve acidity. Full bodied with a wide range of dark fruits in the aromas, this is a wine that transmits to the palate sweet dark fruit characters framed by firm but friendly tannins. Good acidity propels the finish. By comparison with other big reds, this one exhibits relatively moderate alcohol, 13.6%. Suggested Food Pairings: Rough-textured terrines, The Spotted Trotter’s sorghum/black pepper salami, crepinettes; legumes with sun-dried tomatoes; Moroccan beef stew; grilled lamb chop or roasted duck with five-spice powder; pasta with game sauce (pappardelle with oxtail meat sauce); feathered and furred game; chicken with a spicy (but not too salty or hot) rub; Flat Creek Lodge’s Stilton-style blue cheese (and similar rich, flavorful cheeses); dark chocolate-covered espresso beans. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wines/NDC $25.00 2008 Shane Cellars The Unknown Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Only 500 cases of this full-bodied Syrah from California’s North Coast made their way into the market, with a few coming to Atlanta. Hefty (and hefty in alcohol--14.3%) this isn’t a timid wine. Especially appealing aromas convey an important sensation of black fruits, with intriguing layers of floral and fruit characters, plus a good hit of black pepper. The palate performs similarly, supported by juicy, fine tannins that lend heft to rich, black fruit characters, and a finish that just won’t quit. No alcoholic whatever mars this one, and there’s not even a blush of oak to misguide the overall impression. The strength of the fruit and the tannins all suggest this is a potential keeper if properly cellared. But even now, it’s a wine worth knowing, so I say “Know ‘the Unknown’.” Use a glass that is made for Syrah for maximum enjoyment, wide at the bottom and tapered to a slight close at the top. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured peppered terrine; peppered cured salami; steak au poivre; smoked pork chop (The Butcher’s Market in Woodstock) with blue cheese grits; grilled lamb shoulder chop or lamb stew; furred game (especially venison); peppered roast duck with five spice powder; barbecued meatloaf; Memphis-style ribs; cassoulet. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $40.00 2009 Oveja Negra Carignane Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 89 Tasting Note: This single-varietal Carignane from Chile’s Maule Valley has got to be a rarity. Dry farmed, these 40-year-old vines yield a singularly intense wine with an opaque, deep purple color edging to garnet on the rim. The aromas show the influence of French oak, exhibited in the initial chocolate tones that eventually yield to the vanilla notes that become increasingly prominent as the wine opens in the glass. Beneath lie flavors of fresh and dried dark fruits. On the palate, dark fruits and brown spices get vttal support from silky, juicy, quite gracious tannins. Bold yet balanced, the wine presents a fruit-filled delicious,, long finish. Enjoy at cool temperatures in a generous round-bowled glass with a flared opening. Suggested Food Pairings: Rough-textured aterrines and meat pies (would love to try this with French Canadian tourtière); furred game with brown sauces; peppered roast duck; legume-based dishes (fabada); Moroccan spiced (but not hot) lamb stew; mole poblano, oven-roasted spice-rubbed beef rib with caramelized onions, dark chocolate. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $25.00 2009 Alexandria Nicole Cellars Quarry Butte Review Date - 2/1/2012 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Washington State’s 2011 “WInery of the Year” produces a stellar line-up of wines. Its estate vineyard, Destiny Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, is the source of this selection. Its 263 acres are plnnted with 23 varieties, so selecting grapes to make fine blends is a cake walk. The blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 17% Syrah, 6% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot. The wine is aged 20 months in French & American oak. Alcohol is 14.5%, but the grapes carry it well. The aromas reveal the American oak, with prominent caramel notes taking over the black fruit component. Full bodied with an inky dark purple red color and ripe tannins, the wine tantalizes the palate with plenty of dark fruit and spice, and finishes with a burst of cola notes. Open about one to 1 ½ hours before serving. Use a glass that offers a large bowl and a wide, open top. Suggested Food Pairings: Robustly flavored fare, such as well-spiced salamis and other cured meats; stews with Moroccan spices (cumin yes but no harissa); oxtails seasoned with allspice, ava beans; cannelini beans with feta cheese and onion; pasta with smoked mozzarella, garlic and basil; barbecued meatloaf (a real winner); lamb and venison; game (I can just see this with wild boar); grilled mild Italian sausage; fine grits or polenta with blue cheese. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $25.00 2010 Alexandria Nicole Cellars Shepherds Mark White Rhone Blend Review Date - 1/1/2012 Score - 94 Tasting Note: This is one heckuva wine. I had decided that already before learning that the winery was declared Washington State Winery of the Year 2011 by Wine Press Northwest. Composed of classic white Rhône varieties (62% Roussanne; 22% Viognier; 16% Marsanne) from Destiny Ridge Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA (Washington State), this is a full-bodied dry white wine with great depth of flavor. Rich and layered with exotic fruit characters, the wine exudes banana, pineapple, Meyer lemon; and stone fruit. Particularly pleasant is the silky, viscous mouth feel, nicely balanced by brisk acidity. Fermented in stainless steel, the wine is a food companion classic, but especially for heftier fare. Very limited release: 488 cases made. Great value. Suggested Food Pairings: Pan-seared pork chops with brown gravy, garlic mashed potatoes and steamed cabbage (just spectacular); braised veal short ribs or roasted breast of veal stuffed with chicken-apple sausage; sautéed veal sweetbreads dusted with curry-powder accented flour, toasted, slivered almonds; bread-stuffed roast chicken; roasted Vidalia or other sweet onions stuffed with collard greens and pancetta; chicken tarragon; chicken thighs roasted atop sliced onions, garlic and sliced fennel. Also with rich, full-cream cheeses. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $25.00 2010 Clos St. Jean Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Review Date - 1/1/2012 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Sometimes it pays to pay the money, and this is one of those times. While there are less expensive white Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines to be found, the complexity and richness of this example, from one of the most highly regarded estates in the AOC, warrants the cost. Nearly equal parts Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Roussanne compose this full-bodied white wine. Aromatic, becoming more so as it opens in the glass, the wine could justifiably be decanted perhaps 20 minutes before being served. As new taste sensations emerge with every sip, however, it also works to experience the wine as it unfolds. Layers of citrus and apricot notes, lemon, and fruit blossoms waft through the aromas, while the rich, full palate brings citrus fruit and marmalade into the picture. Wine enthusiasts who abjure white wine have been known to gush when introduced to the genre, and yet many still express surprise to learn that there are white versions of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Not for long-term cellaring. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled scallops with mandarin orange or Meyer lemon gastrique, whipped potatoes or risotto; osso buco or any other veal shank preparation, braised veal short ribs with roasted cipolini and fingerling potatoes; seafood stew with fish and shellfish, garlic and fennel; roasted fennel bulbs, onions and potatoes for a vegetarian dish. Assertively flavored cheeses are good with this wine. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $50.00 2009 Naravan Cava Brut Review Date - 1/1/2012 Score - 93 Tasting Note: You have grower Champagnes, so why not a grower Cava? Big difference in the price though. The classic varietals are included: 50% Xarel.lo; 30% Macabeo and 20% Parellada, which just happens also to be the name of the estate owner, Swiss-born Michel Gilleron Parellada. Medium- full-bodied with a fine greenish yellow color, this wine exhibit’s a delicate mousse and fine, persistent bead. Aromas showcase lightly toasted bread and fruit flowers, while the zesty, tangy acid-rich white stone fruit fruit intrigues the palate. Acidity was too powerful for two tasters, so if you prefer a lower acidity level, bear that in mind. But mouthwatering, palate cleansing, crisp and clean is what you get, making it a fine food wine. Serve it as an aperitif or as a dinner wine: Great value. Suggested Food Pairings: Savory crab custard; crab/corn chowder; creamy crab-filled puffs; eggs Benedict on crab cakes crab hash with poached eggs; chicken in cream sauce; and I’d take a bet on it with a pink veal filet mignon with Béarnaise sauce; buttery gratin of panko-covered oysters with applewood smoked bacon and shallots; breakfast egg strata (perfect brunch wine); shrimp and scallops on grits with a garlic cream sauce. Mild creamy cheeses, too, such as Délice de Bourgogne. Distributors: Ultimate Distributors $17.00 2010 Jules J Berta Sylvaner Review Date - 1/1/2012 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Jules J Berta, Hungarian born, emigrated to this country in 1959, after the Hungarian Revolution. Planting his first vines on Sand Mountain (1100 ft. above sea level) near Albertville, AL, Berta unknowingly followed a long story of 200 Hungarian winemaking families in the 1880s in east Alabama and west Georgia. Jules Berta Sr. passed away in 2005, but his son, Jules Jr., and wife Becky (Alabama born) have developed the winery as a thriving business. On their 22-acre farm, some seven acres are devoted to wine grapes, including vinifera. Among these is Sylvaner, a grape that can produce age-worthy white wines. I recall a 10-year-old Alsace Sylvaner I enjoyed back in the 90s, and was stunned at its freshness and vitality. European versions today tend to be dry in style, although traditionally the grape was made in an off-dry to semi-sweet style. This example taps into that latter tradition, with moderate residual sugar but with good acidity to keep the wine from becoming cloying. The medium-yellow straw color is bright and clear, and aromas suggest white melon and pear. The fleshy mouth feel, thanks to residual sugar, backs up flavors of pear, white melon and guava. Just delightful. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken liver mousse with truffles; foie gras; chicken curry pot pie; slow-cooked oven-braised pork butt; Southern-style pork chop with brown gravy and garlic mashed potatoes; knockwurst with kraut and strong mustard; hefty Asian dishes with some spice and with pork, poultry or seafood, smoked chicken with Alabama white sauce. Distributors: At the Winery (shipping to Georgia in process) $14.00 2008 Anaba Coriol White Rhone Blend Review Date - 1/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Full-bodied with substantial alcohol (about 14%), this golden-colored Sonoma white Rhône blend is composed of Roussanne (48%), Viognier (30%); Marsanne (12%) and Grenache Blanc (10%). Aromas are substantially influenced by the French oak barrels in which a portion of the wine was aged. Beneath the oak one discerns the white peach and citrus (lemon) characters that define the genre. The palate is rich and full, with oak lending a substantial amount of power to the blend. Those who enjoy wines showing prominent oak will favor this one; however, the oak makes it difficult to pair this wine with food. Suggested Food Pairings: Dishes with spice, such as cumin, saffron or curry to balance against the oak. Curried chicken pie; Jamaican meat patties with chicken and curry; tandoori chicken and basmati rice; shepherds pie with turkey and a little curry; perhaps paella; arroz con pollo; white bean, bell pepper and zucchini medley with cumin; herbed or garlic-scented goat cheese. Distributors: Artisan Vines $28.00 2009 Crane Creek Vineyards Enotah White Review Date - 1/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Crane Creek Vineyards in North Georgia produces this wine from estate-grown Chardonel, a grape that’s a hybrid of Seyval (itself a French-American hybrid) and Chardonnay. The wine exhibits only a slightly foxy-grapey note revealing its hybrid character. When first bottled, this cold-hardy variety can be strikingly high in acid, but after it’s had a chance to bottle age a bit, the result can be very rewarding. Released in New York, the grape is grown there and in the Midwest, notably in Missouri, but only occasionally in the South (some is planted in Tennessee). At this point in its life, this wine is a right nice drop, to borrow and modify an Aussie term. Crane Creek elects to ferment 25% stainless steel and the rest in Virginia oak, which is evident but relatively restrained. The slightly greenish yellow color attests to the Chardonnay parentage. Aromas exhibit oak characters, along with citrus (lemon), which carries through to the palate. The acidity prolongs the finish, leading to a crisp, clean close. Suggested Food Pairings: Winery chef David Sanford likes to pair this with creamy dishes, such as creamy soups (any bisque or cream-based soup); coq au vin blanc (made with this wine, he says); fettucine al Alfredo and similar fare. I just tried it with roast pork loin on cornbread dressing, and Mary Mac’s tomato pie (outstanding!); chicken and dumplings; blanquette de veau; seafood lasagna with Béchamel sauce (not tomato); gnocchi or späzle with cream and shellfish or ham and mushrooms. Distributors: At the winery $20.00 2010 Habersham Vineyards Creekstone Chardonnay Review Date - 1/1/2012 Score - 88 Tasting Note: For anyone eager to enjoy a rich style of Chardonnay that retains good measures of fruit, this Georgia example will fill the bill. Aging for just 4 ½ months in new 350 liter Hungarian oak barrels (a bit larger than normal) with lees (dead yeast cells) stirring are the keys to this style. The wine shows amble fruit focused on pear and citrus, lemon drops and lemon curd, with oak and acidity well integrated into the fruit. No one would guess, having tasted it blind and not knowing about Georgia‘s viticultural scene, that this wine was produced from Georgia-grown fruit, but it is. Suggested Food Pairings: Roast pork loin with cornbread dressing (quite awesome); Mary Mac’s tomato pie (made from Ritz crackers, canned diced tomatoes and grated cheese); roast chicken or Cornish hen with bread stuffing and pan sauce, whipped potatoes; glazed grilled ham and sweet potato soufflé; chicken tarragon with home fries or noodles; chickpea stewed with chicken; white bean cassoulet (Viande Rouge). Distributors: Prestige Wine Wholesale and At the Winery $20.00 2009 J Vineyards Chardonnay Russian River Valley Review Date - 1/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: This California classic brings to bear all the elements that one presumes with the genre: a deep greenish-gold color; high alcohol (14.5%); big, ripe, rich fruit, and plenty of oak. Aromas of toasted nuts and Meyer lemon carry forward to the palate, which picks up notes of vanilla, custard (crème brûlée), and brown baking spices (nutmeg especially). Wines like these are tough to pair with food, as they have so much going on they prefer to stand on their own. Oddly, the best thing to pair with them is a dish that has some considerable exotic but mild (not hot) spice, such as cumin or saffron. The lingering finish brings all the wine’s nuances to a final delicious close. For a wine from a genre that I don’t normally care for, this one is impressive. But I still would not reach for one of these most of the time, as with food, it’s possibilities are narrow. But it’s terrific if big wines are what you value above all else, and now’s the time to have them. Suggested Food Pairings: White bean cassoulet (from Viande Rouge in Johns Creek); white bean vegetable ragoût with cumin; chicken pot pie; curried fried chicken; roast chicken or roast pork tenderloin with saffron rice; roast pork tenderloin with Vidalia or other sweet onion, whole-grain mustard cream sauce and mashed potatoes; mildly spicy chicken sausages and creamed potatoes; corn soufflé. Skip the seafood as the wine shows too much oak. Distributors: National Distributing $25.00 2009 Betts & Scholl Riesling Review Date - 1/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Australia can turn out some amazing Riesling, and in fact has the second largest planting in the world of the grape after Germany at about 10,000 acres. This example, produced by Trevor Jones with input from Richard Betts, MS, and art collector investor Dennis Scholl, is from 50-year-old vines grown in Eden Valley, one of three superior Riesling-producing regions in Australia. The pair, who sold their brand in 2009 to Castle Brands, has crafted a collection of wines that reflect their personal tastes in a wide variety of genres, among them Australian Riesling. This example exhibits the classic petrol aromas that often appear in Riesling when it’s aged a bit. Some people like that; others don’t. Your call. On the palate, melon and citrus notes blend, and the ample acidity and minerality back up the fruit character. At this point in its life, this Riesling is spot on, dry, crisp and rich all in the same complex mouthful. Power and elegance achieve balance. Great food wine. Suggested Food Pairings: Sautéed chicken breasts or pork steaks with mustard cream sauce; roast pork loin with creamy pan sauce, macaroni and cheese; tandoori chicken; fish fillets or steaks steamed in beer with mustard Béchamel; chicken and dumplings or späzle and ham in cream sauce; roast glazed ham and sweet potato casserole; veal sweetbreads with spinach and sautéed pear, whipped potatoes; gratin of oysters or scallops. Distributors: Empire Distributing $27.00 2008 Hugel Gewurztraminer Review Date - 1/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Gewürztraminer may be the most difficult grape to explain to the Americans. Like this example, from Alsace, France, where perhaps the best are made (although New Zealand Gewürztraminer is splendid), the wine is highly aromatic--perfumed with lychee nut and spice. Usually at least somewhat off-dry, Gewürztraminer is the wine of choice with Asian food, especially Indian fare. This good value example is delightful on its own thanks to its classic character. Close to dry, the wine shows a medium deep straw color and aromas of lychee nut (which shares some of the same aroma compounds with the grape) and the merest hints of rose petal, another classic marker for the grape. Rich fruit, a fleshy texture, and good acidity take the palate down an interesting road. Great value. Suggested Food Pairings: Tandoori chicken; lamb Rogan Josh (if not too hot); curried chicken pie; shepherds pie with turkey and some curry in the seasoning; roast turkey with bread stuffing (skip the sage); Muenster cheese (awesome). Distributors: Georgia Crown $16.00 2010 Praxis Cellars Viognier Review Date - 1/1/2012 Score - 91 Tasting Note: A good example of the genre allows one to get to know this fabulous grape for its purity of fruit and its food flexibility. Uncluttered with oak, this example was done in stainless steel (the preferred treatment for this grape in my view). Viognier will likely emerge as the star of East Coast white wines, but this example comes from the Russian River Valley. (Sonoma County, CA). Its medium straw color shows Viognier’s classic greenish tones. Aromas yield the honeysuckle marker for Viognier, along with some guava, pneapple and other tropical nuances. The palate is even more fruit expressive, with touches of vanilla, tropical fruit and lychee nut--all characteristics of Viognier. The finish is crisp and dry. Just delicious. Limited production: 500 cases. Absent oak, Viognier has a wide range of food-pairing abilities. Suggested Food Pairings: Scallop gratin with mandarin orange and toasted almonds; mild curries with seafood and chicken (not hot); chicken pie; butter-sautéed soft-shell crab with toasted almonds and a touch of curry powder in the seasoning; roast pork tenderloin with peach chutney; roasted crab-stuffed Cornish game hen; fish-and-seafood pie. Distributors: Artisan Vines $20.00 2010 Cass Cellars Roussanne Review Date - 1/1/2012 Score - 90 Tasting Note: From Paso Robles, CA, this full-bodied white wine is made from one of the major Rhône varieties: Roussanne. This is a good way to get to know this variety. Offering classic aromas of yellow stone fruit, the wine shows a medium deep greenish gold color. Lush in texture yet balanced by good acidity, the wine offers the palate acid-backed yellow stone fruit flavors, with notes of lime and dried yellow fruits. The lingering finish stays true to the variety’s peachy character. Complex and rich, the wine is f ermented and aged in stainless steel, allowing the magnificent fruit to come through. Suggested Food Pairings: Blanquette of white meat turkey or chicken; sautéed veal sweetbreads with sweet potato puffs; sweet potato-stuffed roasted Vidalia or other sweet onion; roast chicken stuffed with cous cous and dried apricots/pistachios or almonds; braised whole veal shank with garlic mashed potatoes; chicken tarragon; pad Thai and other Thai dishes that aren’t wicked hot. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $25.00 Jean-Luc Joillot Cremant de Bourgogne NV Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: The sparkling wines of Burgundy are designated “Cremant de Bourgogne.” This example, made from Pinot Noir (70%) and a blend of Chardonnay and Aligote (30%), shows a medium golden straw color. Full-bodied, the wine exhibits a firmly yeasty aroma, like warm buttered brioche, compelling and downright seductive if you enjoy that sort of character in a sparkling wine or Champagne. And why wouldn’t you? Complex, with a yeasty character, evolved (not upfront, in-your-face) fruit, and substantial minerality, the wine offers good acidity, and remains rich and appealing through its very long finish. Personally, I prefer this one not dramatically chilled, more like around 60F/15C. A great value. Suggested Food Pairings: Rich, full-bodied, full-flavored foods: Pistachios; terrines or pates; roast chicken; panko-crusted scallops or fresh cod with either tartar or remoulade sauce; crab cakes; mild fish Wellington (fresh cod, halibut, etc.), creamy fish casseroles or a fish pie; chicken pie; roast beef. Distributors: Con Vinum $32.00 2010 Weingut Dr. Loosen Riesling Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Riesling is one of those grapes (like Chenin Blanc) that can be called upon to do anything from making a sweet, still dinner wine to a crisp, dry white sparkling wine. This off-dry all-Riesling sparkler, called a “sekt” in German, (pronounced zekt) shows a medium straw color, and a delicate aroma that suggests quince and ginger with a touch of exotic spices. The spices become prominent on the palate, and the pear and baked apple characters lean into a long and satisfying finish. More than 20 grams per liter of residual sugar adorns this wine, but the acidity is high and balances the sweetness, so the finish is clean and crisp. Not at all cloying. This is an ideal companion for Asian food, but also should address dishes with exotic spicing. Suggested Food Pairings: Steamed Asian dumplings with ponzu dipping sauce; spicy chicken wings (but not wicked hot); Malaysian dishes (roti); curried chicken salad; curried fish; Moroccan fare (tagines, but hold the harissa); cornmeal fried oysters; parchment-cooked seafood with julienned vegetables, ginger and mirin. Distributors: National Distributing $15.00 Laetitia Brut Cuvee NV Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Located in Arroyo Seco, CA, Laetitia Vineyards & Winery produces a wide range of sparkling wines. Formerly, the California operation of the Champagne Deutz house, Laettita produces a variety of sparkling wines. This one is a full-bodied blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc, and shows a pretty greenish straw color and lively, persistent bubbles. Aromas suggest yellow stone fruits--apricot especially--while rich white fruit flavors shape the palate experience. Abundant acidity provides a mouthwatering sensation. The finish is crisp, clean and dry. Suggested Food Pairings: Raw oysters with lemon; fried oysters with tartar sauce or lemon aïoli; calamari or a seafood frito mixto with lemon aïoli; poached eggs on grits, cornbread or a split biscuit with sausage cream gravy and chives; chicken pot pie; chicken empanadas; chicken salad; grilled head-oj shrimp with garlic; grilled scallop with tartar sauce; roast chicken; wings; creamy, mild cheeses (Delices de Bourgogne; Sweet Grass Dairy’s Green Hill). Distributors: Empire Distributing $25.00 2007 Argyle Brut Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: A blend of Chardonnay (63%) and Pinot Noir (37%) fromWillamette Valley, OR, this has long bee one of my favorite American sparklers, one that I find consistently pleasing vintage after vintage. And it’s a terrific value. The pleasure principle here starts off with a fine straw color, while the lovely mousse and the fine, tiny bead make a good prelude to the lively fruit and yeasty aromas. Pear graced with a hint of vanilla comes to mind. Good acidity gives the palate a firm backbone, and the fresh, ripe fruit characters expand as the wine opens in the glass. The wide range of flavors, from Meyer lemon to pear to brioche dough, culminates in a long finish that just keeps unfolding after the wine has departed the mouth. Mouth-filling and mouthwatering, this is a wine for many seasons (not just the holidays) and one that will work with a variety of foods, from cocktail fare to meals. Its reasonable price allows one to rope it into celebrations as mundane as T.G.I.F or as important as a graduation. Suggested Food Pairings: Pistachios (awesome); boiled peanuts (I swear); French onion dip, salmon caviar, or taramosalata and unsalted potato chips (Kettle Brand at Whole Foods); steamed Asian dumplings and ponzu sauce; Chinese peanut chicken; smoked salmon; chicken pot pie; creamy mild cheeses (CalyRoad Creamery camembert). Distributors: National Distributing $27.00 J Vineyards Brut Rose NV Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: From California’s Russian River Valley comes this beautiful sparkler, boasting a bright orange-pink color. Made from Pinot Noir (64%); Chardonnay (34%); and the Pinot Meunier (25%), this is a wine for a lot of seasons, not just the holidays. Wednesday will do, in fact, birthday or no birthday. Its intriguing aromas suggest coconut and red berries, the latter coming from the two red grapes in this classic blend. Good acidity (.7) is made to seem even more brisk by the wine’s low ph (3.14), all adding up to a good food-pairing wine, as does the modest alcohol (12.5). On the palate, red berry characters offer a subtle fresh character, while the good acidity gives length and spine to the mid palate. The crisp, dry finish is easy to enjoy. Suggested Food Pairings: Taramosalata on thin cucumber slices; coppa-wrapped scallops, sauteed and served with slightly spicy aioli; olive-oil sauteed head-on shrimp with rémoulade sauce; shrimp cakes; sushi or sashimi; teriyaki; dim sum; crawfish salad. Distributors: National Distributing $30.00 Wolf Mountain Vineyards Blanc de Syrah Brut NV Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Try this one blind on your friends, and see if they can guess where it’s from. They can’t, of course. It’s from Dahlonega, GA, and is made from estate-grown Syrah grapes. It’s beautiful. The lovely pale pink color attests to its red-grape origins, and the dosage incorporates some of the winery‘s Howling Wolf Red (a blend of estate-grown Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon). I’ve been watching a glass of it for at least an hour, and the bubbles just keep coming, as persistent as any you could imagine. The aromas hint at red fruit and a touch of banana (red banana, if you’ve ever tried one). On the palate, the wine presents a lovely red fruit character, and the good acidity lets it linger a fair amount of time. Let it open in the glass and warm up from the big chill so it reveals its good fruit. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken liver pate; mild curries; rock shrimp; salt-and-pepper shrimp; ham salad; grilled salmon; rumaki; bacon-wrapped scallops; shrimp and grits with tasso ham; teriyaki; skewered filet mignon grilled and brushed with teriyaki sauce; grilled quail and Cornish hen; tiny meatballs in light tomato sauce; crawfish salad. Distributors: Empire Distributing and at the winery $30.00 2008 De Chanceny Brut Excellence Tete de Cuvee Vouvray 2008 Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Vouvray is an appellation that lies along the Loire Valley east of Tours. The vineyard soils hold stony limestone, chalk), and flint and chalk mixed with clay, imparting a distinctive mineral character to the wine, which is 100% Chenin Blanc. Like Riesling, Chenin Blanc is capable of making both still and sparkling wines, which have some ageability. This full-bodied example exhibits a fine gold color, and persistent small bead. The aromas show a blend of nuttiness and stone fruit characters, while the palate provides lime, quince and chalky-mineral characters. An excellent value, as a tete de cuvee Champagne would be many times this price, this sparkling Vouvray offers fine bottom-line bang for the buck. Suggested Food Pairings: Boy, is this ever good with your basic chicken pie! Also Malay chicken pie from South Africa or Moravian chicken pie from North Carolina. Other full-bodied foods would include seafood Wellington; blanquette de veau; crab casserole; chicken with vegetables topped with mashed potato; potato cakes as a vegetarian center-of-plate dish. Not a good choice with caviar. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $20.00 De Chanceny Cremant de Loire Brut Rose NV Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: A lovely medium-pale pink introduces this sparkler, which holds onto its effervescence with persistent, very tiny pinpoint bubbles. Made entirely from 20- 30-year-old Cabernet Franc vines, a grape that is one of the mainstay red wine grapes of the Loire Valley, Aromas yield fragrant red fruit characters, --cherry, strawberry--while the palate presents a fine balance of juicy red fruit flavors and acidity. Fresh, lively, mouthwatering, and finishing long and dry, this is a terrific value that goes with a wide variety of foods. The wine undergoes a minimum of 12 months of aging before being disgorged. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked salmon cream cheese roll-ups; pan-grilled coppa-wrapped scallops or shrimp with Creole remoulade sauce; Thai or Vietnamese spring rolls with spicy-sweet dipping sauce; sushi rolls with spicy mayonnaise; salmon caviar on unsalted potato chip with creme fraiche; head-on shrimp sauteed in olive oil and garlic; shrimp-lemongrass salad; barbecued baby back ribs; Patak’s liverwurst on toast or water crackers; wings (but not too spicy); teriyaki; shrimp and grits; fried chicken livers. The winery suggests desserts with red fruits, but be careful that the dessert is not too sweet. Try simple cheesecake with raspberry coulis. Distributors: Big Boat $13.00 Villa Donna Lambrusco I.G.T. Emilia NV Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Misunderstood in this land thanks to very commercial renditions of the grape, Lambrusco is the pride of Emiglia Romagna, a province abutting Italy’s central Adriatic coast. Blended with about 15% Ancellotto, the wine is made in the Charmat method, and is only slightly fizzzy. It’s also low in alcohol, 7%, as not all the sugars are converted to alcohol. A lovely dark purple red color introduces the wine, along with aromas the speak loudly of dark berries and dark fruits. Hints of blueberry and blackberry frame the aromas, while the palate shows similar dark berry characters. Good acidity lends balance to the wine’s slight sweetness, yet the finish is dry. The interplay of very light tannins, acidity, sugar and fruit is pitch perfect. Very tasty work, and a very good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Chinese barbecue; Korean gal-bi; Chinese duck; Mexican barbacoa; teriyaki; baby back ribs with a mildly spicy tomat0-based sauce; fried chicken; mole poblano; grilled lamb lollipops; Italian charcuterie (salami, coppa; bresaola); creamy blue cheese (Cambozola or Gorgonzola Dolce). Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $13.00 Piccolo Tesoro Moscato Rose NV Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Sweet, with aroma notes of cherry blossoms, this refreshing Moscato spumante exhibits a lovely salmon orange-pink color and quickly dissipating mousse. On the palate, spiced cherry pie flavors rule this medium-bodied sparkler. Don’t expect cloying sweetness here, as the refreshing character of the wine doesn’t play nice with over-wrought sweetness. So make sure your food pairings aren’t sweeter than the wine, too. A lingering finish leaves the palate cleansed and ready for the next sip. If you’ve tried Moscato before and thought you didn’t like it, give this one a look. It’s not build like many of the well-known commercial brands that give the genre a bad name. Not at all cloying, the wine remains intriguing and compelling from sip to sip. Very fine value. Do not cellar as this wine should be consumed fresh. Produce using the Charmat method. Suggested Food Pairings: Plain cheesecake (my favorite pairing, and not too sweet) either New York style or Italian ricotta cheesecake; creamy blue cheeses (Gorgonzola Dolce; Cambozola); poached, chilled fruit (pear or peach); custards with fruit; pound cake with raspberries. Distributors: Savannah Distributing $15.00 LaMarca Prosecco Extra Dry NV Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Made from the Glera grape (the Prosecco grape newly renamed) grown in the Prosecco region around the hills of the Veneto, this light-bodied sparkling wine is made in the Charmat method, as is all Prosecco. In 2007 it registered well enough with the “Wine Spectator” to rank on its Top 100 list for the year. What gets it this kind of rave review? Although an extra dry, meaning it has more residual sugar at 1.7 gr/100 ml than a brut, the wine also shows a low ph. (3.2), which enhances the impression of dryness. Low in alcohol (11%), it shows a lovely pale yellow straw color. Delicate floral aromas suggest white peach, while the complex palate sends out a well-layered experience, with citrus (lemon and grapefruit) and green apple flavors attesting to the complexity. Thanks to good acidity, the finish is crisp and fresh. Do not cellar, as this should be enjoyed soon after being bottled. Suggested Food Pairings: As an aperitif with simple seafood, such as scallop carpaccio; creamy mild cheeses (such as Delice de Bourgogne; creamy Camembert). Distributors: Empire Distributing $14.00 Henri Giraud Hommage a Francois Hemart Grand Cru Champagne NV Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Producers in Ay, Champagne Henri Giraud honors its 17th-century pater familias with this Grand Cru Champagne. Composed of Pinot Noir (70%) and Chardonnay (30%), the wine shows a medium-deep amber gold color. Aromas capture the biscuit scent of brioche, apricots and toasted nuts. The palate offers richness and complexity, suggesting dried yellow fruits, fresh fruit and a distinctive minerality. Fine acidity allows the flavors to linger. The house shows its Champagnes not in flutes but in white wine glasses to better enable the appreciation of aromas and prefers a serving temperature of around 55F/12C. From this point in the Giraud line-up and above, the wines are grower Champagnes. Suggested Food Pairings: Roasted, salted pistachios; creamy lobster bisque or other seafood bisque or chowder; creamy seafood spreads on unsalted crackers; creamy veal stew; meaty but not oily fish (cod; sea bass; fresh cod stuffed with crab meat); prime rib; sea bass, fresh cod or halibut with creamy sauces. Caviar is not suggested: This Champagne is too rich for it, and caviar needs a leaner style. Distributors: Con Vinum $65.00 Mas de Monistrol Estate Masia L Hereu Brut 1882 Seleccion Especial NV Review Date - 12/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: A classic cava from Sant Sadurni D‘Anoia in the Penedes (one of six D.O.s or wine-producing regions that may produce cava), this full-bodied sparkler is made from the classic cava grapes, namely Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel.lo. The medium slightly greenish straw color attests to its classicism, as do the apple-pear aroma, which follow hrough on the palate. The flavors are enhanced by the suggestion of minerality, and good acidity propels them through to a long, rewarding finish. Mouthwatering and palate pleasing, the wine is clean, crisp and brisk all the way to the close. Alcohol is just 11.5%. Terrific value. Suggested Food Pairings: Taramosalata or French onion dip on unsalted potato chips; Spanish croquetas (chicken, ham, etc.); chicken wings (mild); mild curried chicken salad; Bourbon-braised quail on a sauteed grits cake; fish tacos with mildly spicy tartar sauce; crab cakes. I would love to try this one with the shrimp fried in grits on a stick or with the corn dog on a stick at HD!. Distributors: Big Boat $12.00 Weingut Ewald Gruber Punkt Genau Sparkling Gruner Veltliner Trocken NV Review Date - 11/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: An ideal brunch sparkler, this delicately sparkling dry (trocken) white wine is made entirely from Gruner Veltliner, and comes from the Weinviertal region of Austria. Low in alcohol (11%) and with good acidity (.63), the wine shows a delicate sparkle, more like frizzante, and a lovely, bright pale yellow color with a slight greenish tones. On the aromas, the scent of apples and flowers appeals and introduces clean, tingly fruit flavors that suggest yellow apples and Asian pear-apples, with hints of citrus (lime), spice and some minerality boosting complexity and structure. Serve it cool, about 50F/10C, and use a flute if you wish, although you’ll get much more aroma impact if you use a medium tulip-shaped white wine glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Brunch fare, including smoked salmon; crab Benedict; poached eggs on stone-ground grits with chive-flecked cream sauce; mascarpone-stuffed French toast; mild, triple cream cheeses, such as St. Andre or Delice de Bourgogne. Also dim sum; assorted hors d’oeuvres (sour cream-stuffed tiny potatoes with smoked salmon and chives; finger sandwiches; lemon-pepper chicken wings; crostini made with creamy, mild cheeses. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $20.00 2010 Chateau Moulin Favre Beaujolais-Villages Review Date - 11/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Beaujolais has its own raison d’etre, its own character and cuisine; landscape and charm. Its own culinary capital, Lyon. It lies partly in the Rhone and partly in Burgundy, and along the Saone River. Its history is amazing. And so is its grape: Gamay noir. Winemaking has a long history here, having been brought by the Romans who occupied a trading route along the Saone River valley. Easy to drink, Beaujolais reds (the white is made from Chardonnay) undergo carbonic maceration (a/k/a whole berry fermentation), a process that enhances fruitiness and softens tannins. And that describes this example: The rich, aromatic fruitiness that greets the nose signals the grape and the methodology that produce it. A dark purple red color and soft tannins are part of the attractive package. On the palate, ripe red and black berry fruit create a pleasing tasting experience for a wide range of preferences. Serve Beaujolais lightly chilled, about 55F/13C, in medium tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Creamy-textured liver pate; roast turkey, chicken or duck; sausage dressing; grilled or roasted Cornish hen; poussin; sweet potato or grated carrot gratin; dark chocolate-covered espresso coffee beans. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $17.00 2009 Habersham Vineyards Viognier Review Date - 11/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: One of Georgia’s first wineries to open in the post-Prohibition era, Habersham has an upper tier label, Creekstone, that adorns this Georgia-grown Viognier. Not as blousy, and thus more balanced, than many American Viogniers, this example shows restraint while still presenting rich aromas and flavors that suggest grapefruit, white melon, some banana and tropical fruits. Elegant and restrained, the wine is fermented in neutral French oak, and this vintage shows none of the overpowering oak influence that previous vintages exhibited. Shows a bit of heat in the finish. Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses, so chilling is important. Suggested Food Pairings: Pumpkin- or butternut squash-stuffed ravioli; sweet potato-stuffed Vidalia onion; sweet potato salad; mildly flavored curried turkey or chicken salad; Thai salads (papaya salad with shrimp; Thai shrimp salad with lemongrass and curry; yum yai salad); pork loin stuffed with bread crumbs and dried apricots; poached fish dumplings (quenelles) with butter sauce (beurre blanc); seafood sausages with beurre blanc; sauteed soft-shell crab with some curry powder in the dusting flour, toasted almonds; crab-stuffed roast Cornish hen. Distributors: Prestige Wine Wholesale $18.00 2008 Crane Creek Vineyards Hellbender Review Date - 11/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: In north Georgia’s Towns County, Eric Seifarth, a retired Army officer, and his wife (also a former Army officer) and two sons live the life of the winemaker/farmer (although wife Deanne is a veterinarian in Blue Ridge). The wine is named for a salamander, the largest in the Western hemisphere, that inhabits the mountains and foothills of the eastern United States. The wine that bears its name is a full-bodied, deeply colored, bold red wine made from Norton, a native American variety grown from Virginia to Missouri. Aromas of dark fruits with the suggestion of malted milk balls lead to bold flavors of more dark fruits with a distinctive acid thread throughout. Medals from San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition and International Eastern Wine Competition. Mouth-filling and rich, the wine benefits from being served slightly cool, about 65F/17C, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst (Patak); The Spotted Trotter’s chicken liver pate; chili with moderate spice; baked beans (not sweet); barbecued ribs; pulled pork with a tomato-based Georgia-style barbecue sauce; pork tenderloin with Asian peanut sauce; chicken, rabbit or turkey with mole poblano (perhaps the best pairing and a great way to use up turkey leftovers); firm, aged cheeses; dark chocolate. Distributors: At the winery $24.00 2008 Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County Review Date - 11/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: When it comes to Pinot Noir, I prefer a style that is more savory than fruit-driven, one that reminds me of my grandfather’s mushroom bed or a hike in the woods after it’s rained and gotten warm. Such as this good-value example from Santa Barbara County, CA. While the alcohol is a mite high (14.5%), there is only a smidgen of heat in the finish. Some Pinots at this alcohol are like drinking a lit liquid match. Not fun. The aromas supply plenty of red cherry characters, enough for me in any event, but behind them comes this complex of sundry dried herbs--ahhhh. Now we’re talkin’. The dried herb character becomes more prominent on the palate, and the good acidity propels the long finish. The alcoholic heat mars the finish, but some richness in the dishes with which it’s served will also temper that. Serve cool, about 65-68F/16-17C, in round-bowled Burgundy glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Anything with mushrooms, mushroom ravioli with butter, black pepper and fresh herbs especially; mushroom caps stuffed with crumbs, bits of crumbled good bacon, and fresh herbs, EVOO; roast duck or Cornish game hen; roast pork tenderloin stuffed with ham and coppo; game (especially feathered); rabbit chasseur (with mushrooms, tomato); mild creamy cheeses (nice with Sweet Grass Dairy’s Green Hill); dark chocolate. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $20.00 2009 Vina Robles Winery Verdelho Huerhuero Estate Review Date - 11/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Verdelho is a traditional Portuguese grape variety that sees expanded territory in Australia and to some extent in California. It makes just delicious wines, including a type of Madeira, but that‘s fortified. As a still table wine, verdelho’s fresh, zingy fruit emerges in the wines this grape makes, no matter where the vines are grown. With its heat, Paso Robles would seem to be counter indicated for this grape, and indeed the alcohol is high at 14.7% and the acidity a modest 5.5%. But the numbers don’t matter, because the result is just so satisfying, including for plain old-fashioned sipping. I first tasted this Verdelho at Vina Robles on a visit, and was dismayed to learn it might never make it into this market; so you can imagine how delighted I was to learn it had just arrived in time for holiday feasting. Graced with a medium gold color, this wine offers aromas of pineapple and citrus. The palate suggests a melange of ripe golden fruits, with hints of pineapple and golden melon, all wrapped in a delectable juiciness. Done in stainless steel with several months of lees stirring (lees are the dead yeast cells left after sugars are converted to alcohol) to enhance the texture. Serve at 50-55F/10-13C in medium-dized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Fried cornmeal-dipped oysters with tartar sauce; fried fish; grilled scallops with white beans; crab cakes and crab legs; pasta tossed with pesto and goat cheese (no tomato sauces); creamy goat cheeses. Distributors: Ultimate Distributors $15.00 2008 Girardet Cellars Frostbite Gewurztraminer Review Date - 11/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Every holiday meal needs a dessert and a wine to go with it. This example, coming from southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, is an ideal choice for those flavors we look for at holiday time and the seasonings that enhance them. The grapes undergo a freezing process that enhances the sugar. You get all the classic characters of the grape: spices; lichee nut; dried yellow fruits. The mouthfeel is rich and medium- to full-bodied. Modest alcohol (12.5%) means it won’t lay you low after diner. Serve small pours in small tulip-shaped glasses at about 60F/15C. Suggested Food Pairings: Sweet potato pie or tart; pumpkin-focused desserts; pumpkin roulade with ginger cream; apple or pear tarts; creamy blue cheeses (Cambozola); triple cream cheeses (Delice de Bourgogne; St. Andre); well-aged creamy cheeses (French Muenster). Distributors: Artisan Vines $25.00 2009 Dolan Vineyards Zinfandel Review Date - 11/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Produced from CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) grapes grown in Mendocino County north of Napa, this Zinfandel has about 1% Syrah blended in. This isn’t one of those big, over-the-top jammy Zinfandels, but instead shows a more restrained style, even though its alcohol is typical of most Zins (14.5%). Aromas present suggestions of brown baking spices and plums and a hint of sweet cured tobacco, while the palate savors well-integrated dark fruit characters and soft tannins. The finish shows a bit of heat, but serving the wine at cool temperatures will temper that sensation. Use a large tulip-shaped glass. It’s a good idea to decant this wine a few hours before serving. Suggested Food Pairings: All sorts of cold-weather fare--Spanish-style chorizo (The Spotted Trotter); penne pasta with garlic, smoked mozzarella and ricotta cheese; baked beans (not sweet); other legume-based stews such as fabada or cassoulet; smoked beef ribs with a mild rub; well-seasoned (but not hot) vegetable stews; deep-fried Cajun turkey; grilled well-seasoned sausages, such as boerewors (South African pork and beef sausage--from Greendale Farm/Madison, GA); Korean barbecued short ribs (gal-bi). Distributors: National Distributing Co. $20.00 2010 Bodega Augusto Pulenta La Flor Rose Review Date - 11/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Some consumers resist the idea of a rose evenm when it might be in their own best interest--I mean when it would likely make the best choice for a meal, no matter the weather. Now that it’s turned cool, should we stop drinking roses? Nah. I sure won’t anyway. From Alto Agrelo, Lujan de Cuyo, in Argentina’s Mendoza province, the estate-grown grapes (Malbec) for this wine were grown at more than 3000 feet above sea level. Equipped for both visual as well as taste appeal, the wine exhibits a handsome rose aroma, focused on fresh wild strawberries and spice. On the palate, the wine bursts with fruit--a touch of wild strawberry, some apricot, plenty of spice. Clean, dry, and fresh in the finish. and moderate in alcohol, this is a rose for many palates. And a wine that begs to be enjoyed throughout the meal. Don’t bother with the weather report before deciding on this one. Serve in tall tulip-shaped glasses at moderately cool temperatures, around 55-57F;13-17C. Suggested Food Pairings: Salmon croquettes; shrimp cakes; grilled salmon with a spicy rub; roast; grilled chorizo sausages; roast turkey with cranberry sauce; stuffing with cranberries; some time for cranberry-studded stuffing; roast pork loin. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $14.00 2009 Provenza Lugana D.O.C. Review Date - 11/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Lake Garda, a long oddly shaped lake in northern Italy, lies partly in Lombardy and extends east to the Veneto. It’s long, thin snout--it always looks like a long-snouted wolf to me in shape--extends into the Trentino-Alto Adige toward the Dolomite Mountains. About a half mile from its southeastern shore in Lombardy lies Lugana, a wine-growing region where the grape Trebbiano is the viticultural mainstay. This example is from a highly regarded producer in the region. Showing a medium pale greenish yellow color, the wine presents in its aromas the kind of classic almond characters that signal a white Italian wine. On the palate, citrus--lemon/lemon curd--joins the almond notes, yielding a complex and singularly mouthwatering wine. Brisk acidity complements the fresh fruit. Done in stainless steel, this is a wine worthy of any festivity. Serve chilled, but not too cold. I actually like it at cool room temperature, but for most consumers around 55F/13C is probably ideal. Suggested Food Pairings: All manner of seafood, both fish and shellfish. Fried cornmeal-crusted oysters with tartar sauce (although I did not care for it with raw oysters and lemon); calamai with lemon aioli; grilled head-on shrimp; shrimp cakes (Sweet Savannah/Dubberly Shrimp Co.), crab cakes; grilled scallops; baked o grilled mild fish (such as cod or halibut). Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $13.00 2010 Paul Cluver Close Encounter Riesling Review Date - 11/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Some years ago I attended a seminar in South Africa in which a viticulture professor from Stellenbosch University asserted that South Africa shouldn’t bother with Riesling because it couldn’t compete with France or Germany. Oh yeah? If I thought, as I did, that this was a nonsense comment, it seems even more nonsensical in light of this example, which shows a lovely pale greenish yellow color. Aromas hit on all the Riesling keys: lime; floral; and just the slightest suggestion emerging of classic Riesling petrol. that will develop with cellaring. Tilting toward a Spatlese in style, thanks to residual sugar, the wine shows a palate that combines crisp apple with lime, a lively mingling of sweet and acidity, and a creamy texture. Versatile with so many foods, this is a terrific choice with roast turkey. Served moderately chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C, in tall, tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Asian fare, especially anything with some spice and pork, seafood or poultry; roast turkey with cornbread stuffing (skip the sage); squash souffle; roast pork with apple stuffing; grilled bacon-wrapped scallops with corn sauce; creamy, mild cheeses such as Delice de Bourgogne or St. Andre. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $18.00 2007 Chateau St.-Sulpice Bordeaux Review Date - 11/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: With 100 acres chiefly planted to Merlot (70%) , Chateau Saint-Sulpice is located in Entre-Deux-Mers. The balance is Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and Cabernet Franc (10%). Fermentation is carried out in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks before the wine is aged in vats for several months prior to being bottled. The Merlot supplies the red fruit characters that one finds in the aromas (some cranberry) and on the palate, along with some spice and red plum. Tannins are silky and require no adjustment or aeration to tame them. The long fruit finish thins a bit at the close, but all in all, the wine shows its origins with decent typicity. A smokin’ great value. Serve cool, about 65F/17C, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Smooth-textured liver pate or grilled chicken livers on a rosemary skewer; roast turkey, pork loin; duck; pheasant; grilled duck breast with fig sauce; leftovers such as turkey/mushroom pie; well-aged cheeses; dark chocolate-covered espresso beans. Distributors: Georgia Crown $15.00 2009 Steele Shooting Star Blue Franc Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Lemberger is an Austrian grape--Blaufrankisch, a/k/a The French Blue”--that has a small, but passionate, following in Washington State. Although he’s located in Lake County in northern California, winemaker/owner Jed Steele reaches to that far northwest state for these grapes. At Muss & Turner, a Vinings restaurant, it’s poured by the glass, and I tasted both an open bottle that had enjoyed some time to breathe and a newly opened bottle. Delicious work. In both cases, aromas suggested cherry cola and baking spices, while the palate presents ample, rich, delectable dark fruits with soft tannins. There’s little or no oak to interfere with the fruit flavors. Serve it cooled to about 65F/17C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses to handle the little bit of heat in the finish. Decant about 30 minutes before serving. Very fine value. Suggested Food Pairings: Course-textured terrines made from game; grilled duck breast brushed lightly with blackberry jam (seedless) thinned with some of the wine; smoked beef ribs (Community BBQ--utter meat candy) and a tomato-based barbecue sauce; Santa Maria style barbecue (tri-tip seasoned with garlic salt, cooked over red oak, with pinquito beans, salsa and French bread); chili and other well-seasoned legume-based dishes; pulled pork with tomato-based barbecue sauce; grilled well-seasoned sausages; chorizo (Spanish style); picadillo; meat-filled empanadas. Distributors: National Distributing $14.00 2010 Ferrari-Carano Bella Luce Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Talk about a fruit salad! This frisky multi-layered white wine is blended from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Canelli, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Semillon and Muscat Giallo. Wow. I’ve seen candy stores with fewer offerings. From Sonoma County, the grapes were pressed as individual lots into stainless steel for 48 hours, then racked again into stainless stseel for cold fermentation. No malolactic fermentation, so the bright flavors and acidity remain out in front. Aromas and flavors are layered in a wild panoply of characters, including lovely melon, stone fruit, apple, spize, lichee nut (from the Gewurztraminer). Full-flavored in mid palate, silky, and long-finished, this medium-bodied white wine is sure to be a crowd-pleaser. Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Asian fare, including mildly spiced tandoori chicken; curried chicken Jamaican meat patties (not wicked hot, please); smoked chicken and turkey (wonderful with smoked chicken salad); teriyaki chicken; chicken pie; shellfish with garlic and white wine; Chinese peanut chicken; calamari with aioli; moo shu vegetables; egg rolls; spring rolls. Distributors: Georgia Crown $19.00 2009 Tagaris Winery Boar Doe Red Wine Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: From the Waluke Slope and Columbia Valley in Washington State come the grapes for this sturdy but silky textured red wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60^), Malbec (20%) Merlot (10%) and Petit Verdot (10%). The Wahluke Slope, declared an AVA in 2006, is one of the state’s warmest regions, and produces 20% of its grape harvest every year. The Columbia River forms its southern boundary. All the black fruits you can imagine take over the aromas of this dark purple red dry wine. On the palate, layers of flavor address black cherry, chocolate, and black currant. Little hints here and there of vanilla come from oak, but oak does not dominate this wine. Tannins are there but soft, and the overall impression is juicy and comforting. An ideal wine with spice-rich foods, this also is a terrific value. Serve cool, at about 65F/17C, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked lamb; beef; chicken; grilled costilla de res; Korean gal-bi; smoked beef ribs (Community BBQ); meat-filled empanadas; chili (not wicked hot); legume dishes; grilled sausages; salamis; muffaletta; smoked beef brisket; burnt ends; creamy but assertive blue cheese. Distributors: Artisan Vines $20.00 2007 Bodegas Ramon Bilbao, S.A. Cruz de Alba Crianza Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Made entirely from Tempranillo, or, Tinto Fino/Tinto del pais as it is known in Ribera del Duero, Spain, where it originates, this is a wine for many seasons and many foods. Medium-bodied with an inky dark, almost black, red-rimmed cherry color, the wine offres aromas of a perfume of ample, ripe dark fruits and notes of soy and balsamic. Hints of roasted coffee and cocoa powder permeate the aromas. On the palate, rich, lush, dark fruits are framed by firm tannins and lifted by well-integrated oak. Within moments of being poured, the wine begins to grapple with the firm tannins, and they soften somewhat while keeping an eye on their structural duties. The wine was fermented at controlled temperatures, preserving fruit, and aged initially in new French and American oak, then aged in the bottle another 10 months. Best serving temperatures is about 65F/17C, in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Asian eggplant, spicy beef and pork and crispy duck dishes; textured country-style terrines; Patak’s smoked liverwurst; grilled beef, lamb or pork steaks; roast duck; legume-based dishes; Community BBQ’s black beans (and other legume-based fare); smoked beef ribs (also Community BBQ--absolute meat candy); robustly flavored pasta dishes; casseroles; stews; meat pies; shepherd’s pie or cottage pie (made with either beef or lamb); well-aged firm cheeses; dark chocolate with roasted coffee beans (either enrobed coffee beans or coffee tracing throughout--as in Graffiti Zoo’s “Espresso Geckos, from Conyers, GA). Distributors: Georgia Crown $18.00 Engine Room Red NV Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: A sparkling Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec Blend (50/25/25), this aromatic, moderately sweet red wine comes from Australia’s McLaren Vale, just south of Adelaide. The grape were fermented on the skins for seven days, then were pressed and spent 10-15 months in older (therefore neutral) French and American oak barrels. Yet oak does not run the fruit out of the pictures. The dark red cherry color is almost opaque, and the aroms exhibit fresh dark fruit characters, such as plum, dark cherry, blackberry, and black currant with a touch of vanilla and the reminiscence of cherry cola. The same black fruits inform the palate, which also picks up a sensation of dark chocolate. Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60F/13/15C, and use a medium white wine glass (not a Champagne flute). Suggested Food Pairings: Asian beef, pork and chicken dishes; Vietnamese shaking beef; Mongolian beef; honey barbecued pork ribs; teriyaki; Korean gal-bi; crispy Chinese duck with plum sauce, moo shu pork; Peking duck; deep-fried Cajun turkey; mole poblano; dark chocolate covered espresso coffee beans; Confetti Zoo “Espresso Geckos” (Conyers, GA). Distributors: Unique World Wines $15.00 BlackStock Vineyard and Winery NV Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: From Georgia’s winegrowing northern region, this estate-grown Touriga Nacional blended with estate-grown Mataro (a/k/a Mourvedre) is a full-bodied deeply colored port-like (but not fortified) dessert wine. Tauriga Nacional is one of the prominent grapes in Port. Not wicked sweet, the wine exhibits aromas and moderately sweet flavors that suggest fresh and dried dark fruits (figs) with some hints of brown spices in the flavors. The finish captures a clean but sweet ending that is disarmingly silky--but with 17 % alcohol, better make sure the pours are small or the sleeping arrangements close at hand. Serve at about 60F/15C in small- to medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Firm, aged, well-ripened cheeses or aromatic semi-soft cheeses (Georgia‘s Udderly Cool Cheddar/Carroll County; well-aged Decimal Place/Conley goat cheddar); chocolate or toffee (Let them eat Toffee/Newnan); or chocolate with roasted coffee (Graffiti Zoo‘s “Espresso Geckos,”/Conyers), fruit cake or simple pound cake. Distributors: At the winery $18.00 2010 Eradus Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: No one has ever accused a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc of being puny. Altogether the opposite, as these wines feature heady tropical aromas and flavors that recall everything from tomato vine to grapefruit to passion fruit and more. Some consumers find New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc a bit too aggressive for their tastes, but if you like zingy flavors in your wine, this is it. This example, from Marlborough’s Awatere Valley (South Island), presents a lovely medium yellow color with greenish tints. Green bell pepper stamps the aromas, while passion fruit governs the palate. A fine acid backbone marches throughout, making this a good food wine. Power and balance all assembled in a well-made wine that yearns to be paired with assertive flavors. This is a big award winner in New Zealand. Serve at cool temperatures, about 55-60F/13-15C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Raw, roasted or steamed oysters with lemon; shrimp salad with dill and capers; chicken salad with green pepper and mild curry; ceviche with cilantro; tandoori chicken; dishes with lemongrass and seafood; baked halibut with olive oil, garlic and fresh herbs; grilled asparagus with olive oil, garlic and fresh herbs; pasta with baby peas and fresh herbs; potato pancakes with chive cream; dishes with green olives; roasted Brussels’ sprouts. I’m tempted to try this with classically done fried green tomatoes, as it has the acidity to stay ahead of the acidity in the tomatoes. Distributors: Con Vinum $20.00 2010 Marchetti Verdicchio dei Casteli di Jesi D.O.C. Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Verdicchio has been grown for centuries, chiefly in the Marche in central Italy. The derivation is from the word “verde,” or green, no doubt referring to the greenish tints that appear in the medium-deep yellow color that characterizes the wine. It makes still, sparkling and straw wines. From the province of Ancona comes this medium/full-bodied dry white wine. (The other one, Verdicchio di Matelica, comes from Macerata.) Well-evolved fruit graces the aromas, which also hint of wet, warm stone. Minerality infuses the flavors, giving the wine solid backbone and complexity. The same minerality guides the finish to a long and satisfying slightly bitter almond close. This is a sophisticated wine, for a practiced palate, because it’s not a fruit-flashy wine, and that glorious, stony minerality and bitter almond finish may not be for all consumers. Don’t serve this too cold, but instead keep it at about 55-60F/13-15C. Alcohol is a moderate 12%. This is the kind of wine that leads me to answer “Italian” when ever someone asks me what I wine I would take with me to a dessert Island. Suggested Food Pairings: Can handle assertive flavors but not spice heat. Chickpea (garbanzo) salad with fresh tomato, feta cheese and fresh basil (in fact, anything with basil or pesto and anything with feta cheese); pasta with smoked mozzarella, garlic and grated Parmesan; roasted sweet potato with chipotle (not too powerful); smoked chicken salad with cashews; shrimp salad with dill and capers. Distributors: Con Vinum $14.00 2009 Namaste Vineyards Harmony Vineyards Gewurztraminer Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Some wine enthusiasts insist that no wine goes with any dish containing ginger. Rubbish. Get Gewurztraminer. Gewurztraminer is not a wine for wimps. Any one you pick up will have bold flavors, with dramatic aromas of lichee nut and rose petals, as does this example, from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. On the palate, this dry, medium-bodied white wine presents flavors that while exotic (again lichee nut) with some hints of brown spices, integrates all into a pleasing wine experience, with good acidity to advance the finish. Tilting to dry rather than to sweet, this example is less successful with Indian food than would be a more voluptuous Gewurztraminer with more residual sugar. Instead, this one handles smoke and spice (but not heat) very well. Serve slightly chilled, about 55F/13C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Curried chicken or shrimp salad; sliced poached chicken with a trace of curry mayonnaise on top of lettuce; ginger-garlic chicken wings; chicken with whole-grain mustard cream sauce; pasta with smoked mozzarella and a creamy dressing; smoked chicken salad (Green Market in Gainesville); grilled bratwurst with sauerkraut and whole-grain mustard; roast turkey; Clawson’s White Stilton® with mango and ginger. Distributors: Allgood Wine & Spirits $20.00 2009 Sauska Cuvee 113 Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Hungarian born, Christian Sauska did well in business in the United States. Believing in his native land’s potential for producing unique wines, he invested heavily in this project. The estate is located in Tokaj, Hungary, and released its first vintage in 2006. Both native grapes (Furmint and Harslevelu) and so-called “international” grapes (Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc) are planted and have a stake in this wine. Percentages respectively are 61%; 5%; 27%; 7%. Medium gold with greenish glints, the color addresses the predominance of Chardonnay. Aromas attest to the blend of varieties, and offer lively fresh fruit characters--yellow Golden Delicious apple; touch of pineapple. Flavors capture a range of impressions, from yellow apple to white melon, some pear. Mos was done in stainless steel, with just a bit aged in oak for six months. This is a dry wine with substantial aromatic and full-flavored appeal, strong mid palate, and a strong, fruit-filled, rich finish. Serve moderately chilled, about 60F/15C, in medium-large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Anything Asian assertively seasoned but not spicy hot with fish or chicken, peanut chicken; teriyaki; honey barbecued pork; grilled corn and Vidalia onoin salad; fried fish and seafood with tartar sauce; salt-and-pepper calamari or shrimp; calamari with aioli; grilled chicken sausages; roast chicken with apple/bread stuffing. Distributors: Hemispheres $24.00 2010 Goats do Roam Rose Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Enter the drive at Goats do Roam in Paarl, South Africa, and on the left you’ll see a white tower with little windows from which emerge the heads of goats. They seem sculpturally still for a moment--but then they move. They’re real!!! The rif on the name “Cotes du Rhone” actually has life. Under this label three wines, a white blend, a rose, and a red blend are made. The rose also is a blend: Syrah (40%); Grenache (31%); Gamay noir (17%); and Mourvedre (12%). In the glass, the wine exhibits a bright reddish pink color. Aromas offer scents of myriad red fruits, from red berries to watermelon to red apples. Red berries on the palate add a touch of brown spices and apricot. The wine is made in the siagnee method, with free run juice, except for the Gamay noir, which was whole bunch pressed. Each variety was drawn and fermented separately, then blended. Complex and delicious, the wine is very slightly off-dry, but too dry to enable it to pair with dishes that show spice heat.. Serve at cool temperatures, about 55-60F/13-15C, in medium tulip-shaped glasses. Very good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Pizza; stromboli; wings; teriyaki, salt-and-pepper calamari or shrimp; egg rolls; moo shu vegetables; smoked chicken salad; pulled pork with mild tomato-based sauce; barbecued turkey meatballs; picadillo; grilled good hot dogs with chili; grilled prosciutto-wrapped shrimp; grilled ham steak; fried chicken with a bit of spice in the coating flour. Distributors: Empire Distributing $12.00 2008 Haraszthy Family Cellars Zinfandel Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: No name is more associated with the history of California viticulture than is that of Agoston Haraszthy, a Hungarian pioneer who came west Unless, of course, it’s that of Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, the superbly educated last Mexican commander of California before the Bear Republic in 1846. The two families united when two Vallejo daughters married two Haraszthy sons on the same day. Vallejo Haraszthy, founder of Haraszthy Family Cellars, descends from one of these unions (Arpad Haraszthy and Jovita Vallejo).. (Interestingly, in 1998 a not related Haraszthy Vallejo Vineyards, owned by a Chilean, was established in Hungary.) Although disputed, Agoston was long credited with having brought Zinfandel to California. Notwithstanding the controversy, Haraszthy Family Cellars, with Vallejo (known as “Val”) Haraszthy as winemaker, only produces Zinfandel. This example, from Amador County (Sierra Foothills), is a full-bodied dry red wine with an inky dark purple red color. Aromas present substantial dark fruit characters, focused on black plums. The new American oak barrels in which the wine ferments for some 14 months don’t overwhelm these dynamic fruit flavors at all. Flavors, instead, stay true to type, without the interference of oak. Tannins are ripe and slightly “dusty,” firm without being aggressive. The delectable juiciness makes this wine, despite its 15.6% alcohol, a delight to sip all by itself. Serve at 60F/15C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured terrines; chorizo (Spanish style); meatloaf with a spicy tomato sauce; barbecue (smoked beef ribs with tomato-based barbecue sauce); pulled pork with good bark; grilled, well-seasoned Spanish-style short ribs (costillas de res); Santa Maria-style barbecue (well-seasoned tri-tip cooked over red oak), with all the trimmings (pinquito beans, salsa, French bread, salad); grilled South African boerwores sausage (Greendale Farm, Madison, GA) with caramelized onions and tomato; well-spiced smoked chicken or turkey; mole poblano; chocolate-covered coffee beans. Distributors: Empire Distributing $22.00 2009 Cavender Creek Vineyards & Winery Norton Review Date - 10/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Located in Lumpkin County, this newcomer to the Georgia wine scene produces some of the state’s best Norton wines. Start with this one to get a sense of the flavors and the texture of a well-made Norton, which is a native American grape. While Cavender Creek grows Norton, the grapes for this wine come from the vineyard of Bill and Leckie Stack, former partners in Tiger Mountain Winery. So much about this wine impresses: the deep purple red color; the dark berry/spice aromas; the engaging dark fresh fruits on the palate; the long, clean finish; a refined richness that has power but also grace. The fruit-derived tannins are easy and generous. If you’ve been skeptical about Norton, this one should give you a new perspective. Serve it cool, about 65F/17C, in large, tulip-shaped glasses. Good value, too. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst (Patak); barbecue, including barbecued chicken; spice-rubbed smoked beef ribs; baked beans (not sweet) and other legume-based stews; not-too-spicy chili; pork tenderloin with ginger-and-spice peanut sauce; roast leg of lamb; pork belly roasted in sorghum, apple juice and seasoned with five-spice powder; game; dark chocolate-covered espresso-roasted coffee beans. Distributors: At the winery $14.00 2007 Adega Vale d'Algares Late Harvest Viognier Review Date - 9/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: From Portugal‘s Ribateijo, this medium-bodied late harvest Viognier/Viosinho (a native Portuguese variety) blend racks up points for its extraordinary balance combined with modest alcohol (11%). Its medium deep greenish straw color provides substantial eye appeal, while the aromas convey Meyer lemon, orange zest, and the scent of honey (from some botrytis). On the palate, lemon curd and zest are sweet but not at all cloying, thanks to terrific acidity (contribution of the Viosinho as Viogner doesn‘t show great acidity), so the mouth waters as it finishes the wine. Long in the finish, this isn’t one of those viscous dessert wines, so while it works well as a dessert wine, it also can accompany savory dishes. I found 60F/15C to be the temperature sweet spot. Use a small-to-medium white wine glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken liver pate from The Spotted Trotter on American Gra-Frutti almond sesame crackers (gluten free); creamy triple cream cheeses or soft, room temperature Camembert-style cheese, such as CalyRoad Creamery’s cow’s milk Camembert--from Sandy Springs--Delice de Bourgogne, Clawson’s White Stilton® (not a blue) with mango and ginger (at Buford Highway Farmers Market). Nice with slightly spicy Asian dishes, salt-and-pepper shrimp or squid, for instance. Distributors: Artisan Vines $30.00 2010 Le Rocche Malatestiane Adesso Carignano di Romagna D.O.C. Review Date - 9/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: A deep purple red color introduces this Refosco-based wine from Italya’s Emiglia-Romagna region (in the east) is a well-balanced easy-to-drink wine that shows deep dark berry aromas and flavors. Think a melange of dark cherry, blackberry, black currant and some blueberry. Tannins provide structure and weight to the wine, while the substantial residual sugar (about 7%) is balanced against good acidity (.6). Thanks to the tannins and the acidity, the finish is long and gripping. Not a dessert wine, this full-bodied sweet red has enough power despite low alcohol (9%) to allow it to pair with many savory dishes. Serve it cool, about 55-60F/13-17C in large-bowl tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Hangar steak with a dab of Jamaican jerk seasoning (but go easy); or just plain steak with plenty of black pepper; grilled duck breast with green peppercorns; five-spice powder-seasoned Korean beef; smoked chicken with a spicy rub. Distributors: Artisan Vines $13.00 2009 Clos de Nouys Demi-Sec Vouvray Review Date - 9/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: In France’s Loire Valley Vouvray is white wine country, with Chenin Blanc as the grape that makes all wine types from dry to sweet and still to sparking. Not only are these wines of extraordinary flexibility when it comes to food pairing, they are white wines for cellaring. Demi-sec, or “half dry,” designates a wine that has some residual sugar but typically also had great acidity, creating a wine experience of great balance and harmony. This example--pronounce it “cloh duh new-ee,” holds vineyards on sites that were well regarded as far back as 1907. Delicious just starts the pleasure descriptors. In this medium-bodied wine, first enjoy its color, a pale lemon yellow with green highlights. The aromas express ripe golden fruits and fresh flowers, and there’s the slightest whiff of almond. On the palate, sweet fruit flavors--fleshy pear and golden apple and a hint of Meyer lemon--are balanced by good acidity, leaving a mouthwatering, long finish. Chill just to 50$/10C. Potential for cellaring if kept cool, and a really good value to boot. Suggested Food Pairings: As an aperitif with liver pate; sautéed chicken livers on toast; salt-and-pepper shrimp; creamy cheeses and cheese-based spreads; sesame-and-ginger chicken wings; Asian dumplings with Ponzu dipping sauce; assorted dim sum. Also chilled poached chicken with curry mayonnaise; baked mild fish with a creamy sauce; roast chicken with a dried yellow fruit-studded stuffing; crab cakes or King crab legs with drawn lemon butter. Distributors: Savannah Distributing $17.00 Il Conte d’Alba Stella Rosa Rosso NV Review Date - 9/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Somewhat reminiscent of a Brachetto, and coming from Santo Stefano Belbo in Italy’s Piemonte, this partially fermented grape must quaff is low in alcohol (5.5%) and pours slightly fizzy and frothy Simple, not complicated, and not something to elicit wondrous words, it’s about easy enjoyment. The medium deep cherry red color points the way to a refreshing light-bodied wine that’s got summer written all over it. The aromas and flavors hit on red notes (red raspberries, red currants) and the finish is clean as the sweetness is not over-the-top. Serve slightly chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Do not cellar. Suggested Food Pairings: The winery says fruit and cheese, but blue was a bit much for it. Very good was the Udderly Cool “Dry Jack” (aged 120 days) from Roopville, GA, a cow’s milk cheese; so semi-soft, mild but slightly agead cheeses do best. A plate of red apple slices, fresh figs (singularly yummy with this) and red grapes would make a great companion. But don’t stop there: It was also good with mole poblano, spice-rubbed smoked chicken; smoked chicken salad with red grapes. Distributors: Georgia Crown $13.00 2008 Murfatlar Legacy Special Reserve Late Harvest Pinot Noir Review Date - 9/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: From Romania comes this late harvest Pinot Noir, a medium-bodied slightly sweet but not cloying red wine with a medium-deep garnet red color. From the glass spill aromas of black fruits, black plum and black berries, while the palate enjoys a bowlful of similar ripe dark fruits, some notes of dried fruits. Soft tannins and sweet fruit converge to strike a pleasing balance. The finish is long and gracefu, and as the wine opens the plum character gains momentum. There’s not great complexity here, but overall the wine is rewarding. Despite residual sugar, the wine maintains its balance. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65-68F/17-18C in round-bowl glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Rich, smoky liverwurst (Patak); slightly spicy chorizo (The Spotted Trotter’s is perfect); five-spice powder-seasoned pork belly roasted in sorghum and apple juice, with sweet potatoes; barbecue with mildly spice sauces or rubs; Korean barbecued beef (galbi), mole poblano made with chicken, rabbit or turkey; soft ripe bleu cheese (Gorgonzoa dolce). Distributors: Artisan Vines $12.00 Veglio Bacco Sweet Red Wine NV Review Date - 9/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: From the Piemonte (Piedmont) in Italy, this sweet red wine is a blend of Dolcetto (70%) and Barbera (30%). The aromas offer dark fruit plus notes of chocolate and vanilla, the well-balanced palate is geared to savory dishes, especially those with spice, as it offers a moderately sweet dark berry character. Moderate alcohol (8.5%) helps make this an ideal wine for dishes with spice and even a little heat. Soft tannins and a decided core of rich fruit take it to an unexpected pleasure level. Serve at about 65F/17C in large-bowled glasses. No one will kick this out of the ranch. Terrific value into the bargain. Can cellar for five years. Suggested Food Pairings: Cajun smoked chicken; deeep-fried Cajun turkey; smoked liverwurst, blackened pork chop; mole poblano with chicken, turkey or rabbit; grilled spicy sausage; not-too-sweet dark chocolate, creamy blue cheeses (Gorgonzola dolce). Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $12.00 2010 Bodegas Eguren Reinares Rosado Review Date - 9/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: From Castilla, this blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha from vines planted in 1993. A very pretty red cherry pink color pleases the eye while the aromas capture red fruits galore--raspberries, strawberries and a hint of banana. On the palate fresh ripe red fruits supply an easy-drinking pleasing wine experience. The long finish is yet another expression of the basic fruit flavors. Serve chilled, but while it may start off on ice, you will find it tasting best a bit warmer--perhaps around 50F/10C. At that temperature, you’ll pick up some complexity. Despite the residual sugar, it doesn’t deal real well with heat. Spice yes, but not heat. Do not cellar. Smashing value. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked chicken rubbed with GG’s Fine Foods rub (well balanced--not real salty and not too hot); eggplant Parmesan; grilled shrimp with sauce remoulade; pulled pork barbecue with mildly spicy tomato-based sauce; wood-roasted fish (red snapper; wild-caught sea bass); roasted or fried chicken (well seasoned flour with a hit of spice but not heat); roasted bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin; salumi that are well seasoned; grilled ham steak blackened salmon; fajitas with chicken, shrimp or pork. Distributors: Allgood Distributing $8.00 Bodegas y Vinedos Crotta Strip Tease NV Review Date - 9/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: My goodness, what a label!! What will those Argentines do next? This Tempranillo-based red wine from Mendoza, Argentina, presents an appealing frothy-bubbly deep dark red color. Red fruits dominate the aromas and the palate, providing flavors of mature raspberries, red cherries and strawberries Sweet but complex and palate-cleansingthanks tothe effervescence. The wine can refreshing the palate especially after any spice or heat. Serve this one cooler than the other reds: about 50-55F/1013C. This one is just plain fun. Suggested Food Pairings: Creamy chicken liver pate with peppercorns; chicken in red mole; roast duck with green peppercorns; Korean beef gal-bi ; pork pibil (Yucatecan barbecue cooked in banana leaf/Burnt Fork BBQ); Asian beef and lamb dishes with some spice; pork belly with five spice powder; seared hangar steak with crushed black peppercorns.or with melted blue cheese. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $14.00 Adler Fels Totally Random Sweet Red Wine NV Review Date - 9/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: From California, this full-bodied sweet red wine is a blend of varietaies: 38% Zinfandel;34% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon; 5% Petite Sirah; 2% other red varietals. Dark, nearly opaque purple red, the wine presents bold red raspberry aroms that foreshadow the flavors. Brown baking spices and hints of red currant and cranberry crate a complex and rewarding flavor profile. The long finish and some tannic structure add weight and dimension to what might otherwise be just a bunch of jam. Serve either chilled or at cool room temperature, about 68F/17C,and I prefer the latter for this wine. The reasonable alcohol (12%) is another plus. Excellent value. Suggested Food Pairings: Mole poblano with chicken, turkey or rabbit; spice-rubbed smoked beef ribs; peppered hangar steak; roast duck; spice-rubbed smoked chicken; picy stews (peccadillo); chili; Korean beef such as gal-bi; pibil (Yucatecan barbacoa cooked in banana leaf)’ blue cheeses. Distributors: Georgia Crowm $9.00 Crown Valley Sweet Bird Red NV Review Date - 9/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Finally, a Missouri wine!!! From near Ste. Genevieve, MO, comes this blend of estate-grown Chambourcin (a French-American hybrid grape) from the Ozark Highlands. Showing a deep red-edged purple color, the wine presents aromas sweet dark fruit aromas that introduce fresh dark berry fruit flavors on the palate. Residual sugar is high--6.5%--yet the wine is balanced and refreshing. While perhaps too sweet for anyone who insists on drinking dry, it is easy on the tannins and the sweetness is not cloying, making it apt for savory dishes. Moderate alcohol, 12.5%. Important to serve this chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken liver pate from The Spotted Trotter on American Gra-Frutti almond sesame crackers (gluten free); well-seasoned steak; chicken or turkey in red mole or mole poblano; smoked or grilled Cajun-seasoned chicken; grilled duck breast with five-spice powder; grilled lamb. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $15.00 2010 Paul Cluver Cederberg Boukettraube Review Date - 9/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: “Boukettraube? Say what,” you ask? Well first of all, pronounce it “buck-et troi-beh” to get started. Originally from Italy and associated with Alsace, Boukettraube is a crossing of Sylvaner and Schiava Grossa (/a/k/a Trollinger, a red variety in southern Germany). Boukettraube has found a home in South Africa, although it’s not widely planted even there. The first wine-appropriate vines were planted on this former fruit and tobacco operation in 1973. Medium-bodied with a medium pale greenish-yellow color, the wine offers aromas of that suggest honey and white stone fruits. The palate presents a luxurious character, with sweet stone fruit flavors (peach), citrus and brown spice notes, all backed up by great acidity that leaves the mouth refreshed and enjoying the long finish. Cool but not chilled seems best, about 55F/13C. This is an extraordinary piece of work. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken liver pate from The Spotted Trotter on American Gra-Frutti almond sesame crackers (gluten free); sesame garlic ginger wings; spicy Asian fare and mild curries with seafood or chicken; Cape Malay dishes (Cape Malay chicken pie; fish or chicken curries); General Hsu‘s chicken; sosaties (skewered grilled meats); Fabulous on its own as well. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $18.00 2009 Selbach Riesling Auslese Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay Review Date - 9/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: From the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, this Auslese is a classic, showing a lovely medium gold color and presents aromas of cirus (lime) and yellow stone fruit( (apricot). The aromas already are showing the promise of kerosene with time in the bottle. Orange, nectarine and apple interweave to shape the flavors. A good acid backbone balances the moderate sweetness, making this a quite good food wine. A fine textural fleshiness adds to the pleasure. Take a moment to let it open in the glass and warm up if you’ve had it chilled, because it shows best after about an hour and reveals its complexity most vividly at about 50F/10C. Excellent value. Potential for cellaring at low temperatures. Bernkastel is in the Middle Mosel on the right bank. Suggested Food Pairings: With aperitifs such as Patak’s smoked liverwurst or chicken liver pate (The Spotted Trotter, soon to open I Kirkwood); chicken breast with whole-grain mustard cream sauce; smoked pork chop; grilled bratwurst with whole-grain mustard; venison cutlets in classic brown sauce with root vegetables; moderately spicy Indian chicken and seafood dishes, such as chicken Dhansak; rich blue-veined cheeses (Cambozola, Gorgonzola dolce) and creamy rich cheeses (Sweet Grass Dairy’s Green Hill, a Camembert-style cheese). Distributors: Northwest Wholesale $14.00 2010 La Vieille Ferme Rose Review Date - 8/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: A kissin’ cousin to Chateau de Beaucastel--they have the same parents, i.e., the Perrin brothers--La Vieille Ferme (la vee-ay fairm) represents excellent value in white, pink and red wines. Moreover, these are available in 1.5 liter bottles, and you’ll be hard-pressed to drink better for the money. Cinsault 50%, Grenache 40%, and Syrah 10% from the Cotes du Ventoux, France, in the Rhone Valley contribute their bounty to this wine. Exhibiting a lovely medium deep reddish pink tone, the wine shows an intense, ripe red fruit and brown spice character in the aromas; while the palate develops more spice and rich, deep red fruit characters. Good acidity propels the finish, which is long and juicy. Although there is a touch of heat from alcohol, the texture is singularly voluptuous. Good acidity provides appropriate counterweight. to the ample fruit. Full-bodied and rich, this is a wine for a lot of dishes of the sort we love in the South. Serve chilled at 50-55F/10-13C,and use a tapered tulip-shaped glass. It does like to be well chilled. Not a keeper, so drink before the year is out. Suggested Food Pairings: New Orleans barbecued shrimp; fried chicken; fajitas; teriyaki chicken; barbecue (dry rub Memphis style); grilled ham steak; sauteed chicken livers rubbed with slightly spicy seasoning, moussaka; wings; babecued chicken; Patak’s smoked liverwurst; barbecued pork belly; wraps; muffaletta; pulled pork sandwich with mild tomato-based spicy sauce; Asian beef and pork dishes. Cuban sandwiches (medianoche, for instance). Distributors: Empire Distributing $12.00 2009 Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling Review Date - 8/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Located in Hammondsport, NY, Dr. Konstantin Frank is a winery founded by the other great Russian oenologist working in America. An advocate for cold climate vinifera grape growing, Frank proved the worth of his theories with his own winery, now managed by his descendents. The Finger Lakes in New York State offer the kind of cold climate that Riesling needs to be at the top of its game. Those deep, cold lakes further enhance the chill in the air, so the grapes ripen slowly and maintain good acidity, essential if the wine is to achieve classic status. This example, from a vineyard overlooking Keuka Lake, shows a typical Riesling pale straw color, and the aromas exhibit lime-accented pear/melon characters and a whiff of wet stone hinting at the minerality that is to come. The palate offers delectable melon/pear/apple flavors encased in a silky texture, thanks to about .9 residual sugar (just slightly over the dry threshold), balanced by good acidity (.79). Complex and well-structured, this wine is a benchmark for Finger Lakes Riesling. This Riesling reveals its layers of flavor at about 60F/15C. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled wild salmon with herbed aïoli (try Diana‘s Specialties); smoked salmon and smoked salmon/cream cheese pinwheels; small potatoes with smoked salmon, chives and sour cream; crab cakes; steamed crab legs with lemon butter; chicken salad with apples and walnuts; Chinese dumplings with Ponzu dipping sauce; shrimp salad with capers and dill; baked flounder with crabmeat stuffing; moo shu pork or vegetables; creamy mild cheeses (CalyRoad Creamery--Sandy Springs--camembert, for example). Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $16.00 2010 Domaine Sorin Terra Amata Cotes de Provence Rose Review Date - 8/1/2011 Score - 95 Tasting Note: A veritable fruit salad composes this wine: Grenache 40%; Cinsault 15%; Mourvedre 15%, Syrah 10%; Carignan 10%; Rolle (a/k/a Vermentino) 8%; Ugni Blanc 2%. Taking its name from the factd that it was the first Roman province outside of Italy, Provence (from Latin nostra provincia--our province), lies just south of the Alps. Cotes de Provence is its largest appellation, with around 50,000 planted acres as of 2005. Nothing is more definitive about that A.O.C. than is its rose’, and this wine is a beautiful representative of the genre. The delicate pale pink doesn’t even commence to hint at the rich red fruit characters in both the aromas and flavors. Beautifully balanced and slightly spicy, the wine is a refreshing, lightly strawberry, expressive wine that presents a surprising intensity in light of its delicate pink color. Do we catch a hint of Provencal garrigue? Slight herbal notes--think chive--emerge here and there. Fresh, zingy acidity keeps the flavors lingering on the palate. Modest 12.5% alc. Chill it to about 55F/13C, but watch in amazement as it warms and opens in the glass. Great value. “Terra Amata” means “beloved land” in Latin; it also references an archeological site near Nice. Suggested Food Pairings: Assorted tapas, such as jamon serrano, bacalao-stuffed baked red peppers; pisto manchego (vegetables, ham and eggs); salamis; also paella; vegetable pizza; ratatouille; grilled wild-caught salmon; shrimp or scallops with remoulade sauce; mild curried chicken salad; crawfish salad; orzo pasta salad with sun-dried tomatoes; turkey meatloaf; moussaka, Persian cuisine--and that’s not the end of it. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $18.00 Aragonesas Fuendejalon Pour Favor Rose NV Review Date - 8/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Spain’s Campo de Borja (the latter pronounced BOR-ha) is the appellation for this inexpensive and delicious rosado (or rose’). Made from old vine Garnacha (a/k/a Grenache), the wine is exactly the sort of wine you’ll see in many a Spanish tapas bar. The lovely pink red color introduces a medium-bodied rose’ that offers fresh red fruit aromas and flavors. Brisk acidity keeps this dry rose’ fresh and zingy, and despite its reasonable price, it offers a wine you can share proudly with friends without having to duck your head or make sxcuses. The fruit is forward but not blasting, and the finish is clean and long. Terrific value. Don’t serve it too cold, 55-60F/13-15C will do just fine.. Suggested Food Pairings: Patak’s smoked liverwurst (at The Butcher’s Market/Woodstock); smoked pork butt or shoulder rubbed with GG’s seasoning (GG’s Fine Foods/Alpharetta--nice balance, with a little kick but not too hot, at Buford Hwy. Farmers Market); grilled shrimp with remoulade sauce; muffaletta; barbecue; Brunswick stew; paella; grilled fish and light meats (chicken); turkey meatloaf; wings; wraps; pinwheel sandwiches; tacos; tapas of all sorts; jamon serrano; small pinchos (skewers of grilled meat). Distributors: Ultimate Distributing $9.00 2009 Chateau Ste Michelle Dr. Loosen Eroica Review Date - 8/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: As Washington State emerges as the cradle of America’s best Rieslings, Columbia Valley takes its rightful place in the pantheon of superior Riesling AVAs. The watchword for Riesling is cool--cool climate for growing; cool picking (at night); cool fermentation to preserve fresh fruit flavors. Focused on fleshy, prominent fruit, and good acidity (.79) balancing against the residual sugar (1.63%), the wine shows a very pale straw color. Exhibits exuberant aromas of flowers and white fruits with hints of lime zest make its aromas stellar, while fleshy citrus fruits--orange and lime--fill the mouth. Good acidity pushes the finish and keeps that citrus character lingering on the palate. Mouthwatering, with moderate alcohol (12%), the wine leaves the palate refreshed and ready for the next bite of food/sip of wine. Spend time savoring the zesty layers of flavor. A truly fine piece of work. Serve in tulip-shaped glasses at 55F/13C. Suggested Food Pairings: Baked almond chicken casserole (Simply Fresh, Marietta); hot crab dip with pita points; crab legs with lemon butter for dipping; Korean seafood pancake; pork or shrimp dumplings with Ponzu dipping sauce; Korean gal-bi (barbecued short ribs of beef); butter-baked mild fish (fresh cod), scallops or shrimp; potato cakes; creamy mild cheeses (CalyRoad Creamery camembert). Winery suggestions: grilled oysters; warm scallop salad; smoked sea bass on potato pancakes; roasted chicken with lemon couscous; corn and sea scallop chowder--recipes at the web site. Distributors: United Distributors $19.00 2007 Brandborg Riesling Review Date - 8/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Although Oregon doesn’t have nearly the acreage dedicated to Riesling found in Washington State, it’s still an important Riesling producer in this country. A little age adds major complexity to Riesling, and this example shows the diesel-y character that Riesling will acquire with time in the bottle. Just a whiff, though. Then it’s all about fruit with a slight hint of pine in this close-to-dry white wine (low ph and good acidity enhance the sensation of dryness). On the palate, peach and apricot compose the flavors with a good dose of minerality, and the flavors linger on the palate, leaving a mouthwatering sensation. Crisp and dry, the finish is half the fun of this wine, a contrast to the expressive fruit. Really well done. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C, and look for it to open in the glass as it warms up. A good candidate for cellaring a few more years, and an excellent value. Suggested Food Pairings: Baked fish with a creamy whole-grain mustard sauce; fried chicken with a little curry powder in the dusting flour; baked wild salmon with herbed aïoli; bratwurst or Greek louganika with sauerkraut and mustard; Korean seafood pancakes; gal-bi; moo shu pork or vegetables; roast pork loin with apple bread stuffing; schnitzel, venison cutlets in brown gravy with mashed potatoes. Distributors: Artisan Vines $15.00 2007 Sterling Vintners Collection Riesling Review Date - 8/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: While 2008 is the vintage available at the winery, Atlanta’s stash appears to be the previous year’s release. What an opportunity to taste a Riesling with touches of age on it!! This example, from Central Coast, shows how a Riesling can age and yield excellent fruit while developing complexity. While I don’t know how this wine performed when first released, I can tell you that at this point, effusive honeysuckle and apricot/peach aromas make a great introduction to the wine--and to the genre. On the palate, its silky texture holds a bowlful of fruit, from pears and baked apples to apricots. Minerality and good acidity keep the wine lingering on the palate, and promise its age worthy character. Although it tastes best chilled to about 50F/10C, it still delivers as it warms in the glass. Superior value. Another advantage: Keeps well in the fridge after being opened, so you can enjoy it by the glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Aperitif wine with dim sum. Also fried chicken with a hint of spice or curry powder in the coating; Chinese dumplings with ponzu dipping sauce; chicken or pork tenderloin in cream sauce with whole grain mustard; pulled chicken or pork with a light mildly spicy tomato-based barbecue sauce; assorted chicken salads; grilled chicken apple sausages; chicken enchiladas; black pepper shrimp; mussels with Thai curry and coconut milk; gal-bi (Korean short rib barbecue). Winery suggests scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and chives, and for sure it will handle smoked salmon. Distributors: National Distributing Company $10.00 2008 Weingut Dr. Andreas Schreiber Riesling Spatlese Dry Review Date - 8/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: The Rheinhessen is the largest of Germany’s 13 wine regions for quality wines, with more than 65,000 acres under vines as of 2008. Lying on th eleft bank of the Rhine River, the region produces mostly white wine and is home to famous Liebraumilch. Emerging recently are full-bodied dry style wines, such as this example, which is a Pradikat, the highest designation German winemaking laws bestow. Picked later, grapes at the Spatlese level are typically higher in sugar and the resulting wines sweeter than, say, a Kabinett. But Spatlese trocken (or dry) wines exhibit a voluptuous fruitiness while being dry, such as this wine. Its aromas embrace a wide range of characters: quince; tangerine/lime zest; minerality (a decided stony sensation at the outset). Flavors exhibit voluptuous fruit, a definite textural fleshiness, with ripe melon/pear/citrus characters. Good acidity propels the finish. Suggested Food Pairings: Herring; herring-potato salad; smoked salmon; baked chicken on Vidalia onions; grilled bratwurst or smoked pork chops (known as Kaesseler Ripchen/The Butcher‘s Market, Woodstock), or roasted smoked pork (a/k/a/ Schaufele) and roasted cabbage, mashed potatoes, whole-grain mustard; crab legs with drawn butter; crab cakes; hot crab dip with pita chips; butter baked seafood with cream meat; spatzle with cream and ham; venison cutlets with brown sauce, mushrooms and mashed potatoes; schnitzels; creamy cheeses. Distributors: Artisan Vines $28.00 2009 Nelson Bay Riesling Review Date - 8/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: New Zealand produces some delicious Rieslings, with plantings from Marlborough on the South Island south toward Central Otago, although there are plantings along the coast of the North Island. Cooler is better where Riesling is concerned, so the southward tilt is to be understood. Nelson sits on Tasman Bay, on the north cost of New Zealand’s South Island. Showing a bright pale greenish straw color, this Riesling exhibits aromas of delicate flowers, while white and yellow stone fruit characters continue on the palate. As the wine opens in the glass, a hint of white grapefruit zest emerges. The residual sugar is about 1.1%, but the brisk acidity (.75) keeps the palate refreshed and the finish long. The sweetness is not at all cloying. Quite low ph (3.11) helps enhance the sense of dryness despite the residual sugar, and helps contribute to the wine’s potential for cellaring near term. Holds up well for several days after being opened if left in the fridge. I really like this wine best quite close to cool room temperature, about 60F/15C. Suggested Food Pairings: Seafood of all kinds, including grilled scallops with herbed aioli; delicately smoked salmon; baked fresh cod or crab-stuffed flounder; crab cakes; lobster or crab legs with drawn butter; Asian fare: Korean seafood pancakes; mild curried chicken salad; parchment baked scallops (or really any mild white fish from sea bass to halibut to fresh cod) with julienned vegetables, mirin, sesame oil, garlic and ginger; Thai seafood dishes if not too hot; salmon sashimi. Distributors: Ultimate Distributors $14.00 2010 Via Wines Oveja Negra Rosado Review Date - 8/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Lying south of Curico, Chile’s Maule (MOW-lay) Valley is especially home to red wines, although it also grews Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but in lesser amounts. Cabernet Sauvignon leads the pack, with almost 10,000 acres of vines, nearly 1/3 of all viens planted. Head-pruned or bush vines (“en vaso” in Spanish) tend to rule in these dry-farmed vineyards. Part of the Reserva range, this rose is made of Syrah (55%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (45%). Fresh, tingling aromas suggest red raspberries and red plums, while the palate delivers a basket of red fruits and brown baking spices. The depth, complexity and intensity of this wine marks it as a wine for all seasons and for many foods. Good acidity keeps the finish on track for a long time. Mouthwatering. Suggested Food Pairings: Beef or chicken empanadas; spice-rubbed slow-smoked pork; fajitas; tacos with barbacoa, al pastor or carne asada; blackened chicken; spicy wings; grilled sausages; moussaka; teriyaki; Vietnamese shaking beef; Korean gal-bi; Chinese barbecue; Persian lamb dishes with tomato and aromatic spices. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $13.00 2010 La Grande Cote L Estate Review Date - 8/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: What looks like a delicate wine, with its bright, light pink color, turns out to be a full-flavored, deep, complex exciting wine. Another example of a pink wine that has nothing to do with “blush” or “white” Zinfandels. This full-bodied dry pink wine presents aromas of red fruits and spices, reflecting its composition of Mourvedre (49%), Syrah (32%) and Grenache (19%). A joint project of Gauillaume Fabre, owner of Clos Solene and assistant winemaker at L’Aventure, both in Paso Robles, and Erich Russell, of Rabbit Ridge fame, the wine is designed to harness the values of two viticultural traditions, Old World and New. Flavors are deep and appealing, with more spice and red fruit, and while alcohol is high (14.5%) as is typical of Paso Robles wines, and leaves a definite sense of heat, the rich flavors are so compelling and attractive, one doesn’t mind. Long finished and rewarding, it’s simply delicious. Keep the temperature around 55F/13C and serve it in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. This is a wine for many meals, and could be kept for a year or two at good cellar temperatures (55F/13C), also a good serving temperature to keep a handle on the alcohol. I wouldn’t let a little blizzard stop me from enjoying this wine. Suggested Food Pairings: Crawfish empanadas; sausage and peppers; vegetable pizza; mild curried chicken salad; Chinese barbecue; wings; Korean seafood pancakes; gal-bi (Korean barbecued short ribs of beef); Vietnamese shaking beef; teriyaki; smoked pork (really good with GG’s rub); Memphis-style dry rub ribs; fajitas with beef, pork or chicken. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $25.00 2010 Camille Cayran Le Pas de la Beaume Cotes du Rhone Review Date - 8/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Grenache (76%); Carignan (8%), Syrah (8%), and Cinsault (8%) compose this delicate rose wine from Cotes du Rhone A.O.C. Classically made, with 90% derived from a saignee direct of the grapes the wine also is composed of 10% pressed juice. This rose’ shows a delicate reddish pink color with fresh, ripe red fruits informing the delicate aromas. Although the winery recommends a service temperature of about 52F/12C, I found more complexity after it had warmed up in the glass. Then, spice and a measure of citrus zest (blood orange) and finally a hint of candied apple (the taste, not the sweetness) added delightfully to the sensations. The finish is dry, clean and persistent. Very fine value. Suggested Food Pairings: Crab-stuffed tomato; vegetable terrine; spice-rubbed slow-smoked pork butt or shoulder; grilled scallops with remoulade sauce; dishes based on eggplant and tomato served at room temperature (such as escalivada); grilled seafood with salsa romesco; pasta with sun-dried tomato and fresh herbs; fish baked in light tomato sauce. Distributors: Continental Beverage $15.00 2010 Colores del Sol Malbec Review Date - 7/1/2011 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Vineyards at high elevations in Lujan de Cuyo (loo-HAN day KOO-yo) in Argentina’s Mendoza province are the source of the grapes for this good-value Malbec. This is meat wine, no doubt. The deep purple red color and aromas of dark fruits--including black cherry and blueberry--also offer notes of spice (I get black pepper), leading to a palate that presents good fruit and ripe tannins with hints of American oak (the faux vanilla character), although the wine program is a mix of French and American oak. Serving the wine at cool temperatures will blunt this (to my palate) less appealing aspect, and so will serving it with rich foods. It becomes stronger as the wine opens up and warms up. The berry characters are quite lush, though, making the wine ideal for grilled foods. Nice value. Widely available, it’s sold not only in grocery stores but also appears on some rather decent restaurant wine lists. Serve cool, about 65F/17C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Meat-filled empanadas; grilled hangar, skirt or flat-iron steak with chimichurri; grilled sweetbreads or kidneys (thinking Argentine asado here); barbecue (pork, beef or chicken) with a mildly spicy rub; grilled or barbecued lamb; firm, aged cheeses. Distributors: National Distributing Company $12.00 Pour Favor Red Wine NV Review Date - 7/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Oh puleez. Anything for marketing. Having once taught Spanish, I felt this one go right up my neck. But, the wines (there also is a white wine blended from Viura and Chardonnay and a rose’--both very good) are gangbuster values. This full-bodied red wine, made from 70% Garnacha (a/k/a Grenache) and 30% Syrah, comes from Campo de Borja (BORE-ha), one of the D.O.s of Aragon, in northeast/central Spain, province of Zaragoza. This well-extracted, full-bodied red wine shows a deep, dark purple red color. Intense aromas are floral and suggest dark fruits (blackberries/black raspberries) and spice. On the palate, silky textured yet distinctive tannins frame the intense, deep fruit. This is an amazing value. Serve cool, about 60-65F/15-17C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. The entire line-up are great wines for a gang of friends at a party. Screw-cap closure, too. Suggested Food Pairings: Memphis-style dry rub barbecue (Burnt Fork in Decatur or Smokejack in Alpharetta & Cumming); pulled pork with a medium-bodied tomato-based sauce; pizza with pepperoni or Italian sausage; grilled sausages; salamis; terrines; baked beans (savory not sweet); baked pasta dishes with tomato and ground meat; grilled lamb; salamis and other cured meats; firm, aged cheeses; dark chocolate with a few grains of sea salt. Distributors: Ultimate Distributors $8.00 2009 Emma Pearl Merlot Review Date - 7/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: A Southern hand crafts this medium-bodied, singularly juicy Merlot. No, her name is NOT Emma Pearl, but Nova Cadamatre, who hails from Greer, SC. The grapes for this wine come from California’s Central Coast, a region that embraces Paso Robles, which lies within San Luis Obispo County. The Merlot grapes come from Paso Robles. Some Carignan (8%) and Syrah (4%) from elsewhere in Central Coast are blended in. Medium-bodied with elegant tannins and a medium deep ruby red color, the wine shows a lovely red fruit aroma, then the palate indulges in everything in the red fruit zone from strawberries to pomegranates. Soft tannins and good acidity give it framework. Serve cool, about 65F/17C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked pulled pork; fried, grilled or roasted chicken; bourbon-marinated butterflied leg of lamb on the grill; roast or grilled duck; grilled pork chops or pork tenderloin; roasted vegetables. Distributors: United Distributors $15.00 2010 Bosca Anna Chiarle Piemonte Moscato Review Date - 7/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: With this summer’s oppressive heat, wines with low alcohol are a blessing. Moscato provides the opportunity to enjoy a refreshing summer-saving wine, and the fact that this is spumante, or semi-sparkling, adds to its appropriateness for the summer. This is a sweet, straw colored white wine, with a classic Moscato perfume suggesting orange blossoms and other exotic flowers. The palate enjoys a light, sweet but not cloying fruit component that suggests grapes, pears and delicate fruit characters. Good acidity makes the wine mouthwatering, so the palate can anticipate the next sip. The long finish and persistent bubbles add to the pleasure. Serve this wine chilled, about 50F/10C, in tulip-shaped Champagne glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Sparkling Moscato typically gets classified as dessert wine, and it’s good there, of course. But it can do more: Serve it as an aperitif with skewers of fruit and soft cheeses. For the main meal, it’s nice with crumbed, sauteed bay scallops or other seafood and lightly spicy remoulade sauce; ham with buttered baked sweet potato slices; grilled chicken salad with grilled, chilled fruit (peaches, nectarines) on a bed of greens, and a lemon vinaigrette; dessert, poached, chilled fruit with crème anglaise; strawberries Romanoff; cream-filled pastries, custards, and especially panna cotta with crushed fresh fruit. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $15.00 2009 Brigaldara Valpolicella Classico Review Date - 7/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied Valpolicella (val-pole-ee-CHEL-lah), like medium-bodied Pinot Noir, has the grace and agility to pair with a wide variety of foods. Another advantage for summer is that it needs to be served cool, making it a refreshing red. Produced north of Verona, this example blends classical grapes Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella with Corvinone (perhaps a relative of Corvina) and Sangiovese. Medium garnet red in color, this Valpolicella presents lively, bright cherry aromas accented by brown spice notes. On the palate fine tannins support solid red fruit flavors, with a spice-caressed finish propelled by good acidity. Capable of pleasing a wide audience, thanks to good fruit and soft tannins, this is a superior example of what modern Valpolicella is all about. Serve cool, about 60-65F/15-17C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Pasta with bacon, tomato and garlic; stinco di maiale or vitello (braised pork or veal shank) with mashed potatoes and pan juices; grilled meats on salad, red wine vinaigrette; grilled duck; creamy liver spread on toast or plain crackers; barbecue with moderately spicy rubs; smoked turkey breast or roast turkey. Distributors: Vinifera $16.00 2008 Shannon Ridge Wrangler Red Review Date - 7/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: A veritable fruit salad, blending Zinfandel, Syrah, Petit Sirah, Barbera, Mourvedre and Tempranillo, all from Lake County in northern California, this is an ideal summer red for casual fare. Dark purple red in color, the wine exhibits aromas of dark fruits and dark cherry, while the palate yields dark berry characters (blackberries, boysenberries, loganberries) aided and abetted by spice and a hint of vanilla from oak. Soft tannins bolster its broad appeal. Slightly off-dry, this is a red wine for spice-focused barbecue rubs, as the sweetness enfolds any heat from the spices. French and American oak for 14 months leaves the wine with some of the American oak character, but not it’s not overwhelming and serving the wine at cool temperatures tames it. Ideal temperatures for this wine are in the mid 60sF/15-17C. Use a large tulip-shaped glass. This is a red wine for a broad audience. Suggested Food Pairings: Slow-smoked ribs with a somewhat spicy rub, full-bodied tomato-based brown-sugar barbecue sauce or medium-bodied tomato-based barbecue sauce with good acidity (The Butcher’s Market/Woodstock); pulled pork or chicken; chicken wings; burgers; grilled steak (beef or lamb); savory baked beans (not with a lot of sugar). Distributors: Empire Distributors $17.00 2009 Adegas Morgadio Legado del Conde Albarino Review Date - 7/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: From northwestern Spain’s Rias Baixas (REE-ahs BI-jhas) region, Albarino (al bar-EE-nyo) provides the kind of palate-refreshing experience we need in this blistering heat. A friend and I both thought this example hit on all fours and for a very reasonable price ($35 at One Eared Stag in Inman Park). Pale yellow in color, this medium-bodied dry white wine offers aromas that initially suggest peach blossoms and honeysuckle, but soon evolve emphasizing citrus characters that continue on the palate. Minerality and bright acidity bring a serious measure of balance to the vivacious citrus fruit. While this is an albarino for all seasons, it works especially well for combating this summer’s fatiguing heat. The grape is an expensive one to grow, being very labor intensive, so this is an excellent value for the genre. Serve chilled, about 55F/13C in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Head-on shrimp cooked in white wine and garlic; crab legs with drawn lemon butter; grilled fresh sardines or any grilled fresh white fish (not oily types such as salmon) with Meyer lemon; grilled lemon chicken; grilled vegetables; pasta with vegetables and fresh herbs; salads with poached shellfish. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $18.00 Three Sisters Vineyards Fat Boy White NV Review Date - 7/1/2011 Score - 87 Tasting Note: This medium-bodied slightly off-dry wine is produced in north Georgia (Lumpkin County). Barrel-fermented Chardonnay joins Vidal Blanc and Pinot Blanc. It shows a pale yellow color, a slightly butterscotch note in the floral aromas, and oak-caressed white fruit flavors. Light aromatic spices pick up the pace. The finish is long and spice-packed, rather like a bit of pumpkin custard. Fruit characters assemble pear and white melon with a hint of pineapple. As the wine opens and warms in the glass, the oak becomes more prominent, so I prefer to keep the wine chilled enough to keep that element toned down. Serve cool, about 55F/13C in tall tulip-shaped white wine glasses. The wine’s companion red, Fat Boy Red, also is great with barbecue. Suggested Food Pairings: Pulled pork with Carolina vinegar-pepper sauce; South Carolina mustard sauce or chicken with Alabama white sauce; sweet potato-stuffed baked Vidalia onion; rich, semi-soft cheeses; dishes with prominent aromatic spice such as cumin and saffron, e.g., paella with seafood, chicken and rabbit. Winery recommends bacon-wrapped scallops or a shrimp po’boy. Distributors: At the winery $15.00 Habersham Vineyards Scarlett NV Review Date - 7/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: A soft, very slightly off-dry red with easy tannins, this medium-bodied blend of Chambourcin, Cabernet Sauvignon and some white wine is 50% aged in oak. Long popular in the Habersham line-up, Georgia-grown Scarlett always is a non-vintage wine. Aromas deal in blackberry and blueberry characters, with hints of toasted oak. On the palate, lush, rich ripe red and black fruit flavors with good acidity mark this as a good edition of this wine. For the first time, it occurs to me that Scarlett might be a great base wine for sangría. Serve this wine cool, about 63-65F/16-17C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Very fine value. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled small sausages with barbecue sauce for dipping; fried or grilled chicken with a little spice; barbecue, i.e., baby back ribs with a medium spicy rub and a tomato-based, medium-bodied barbecue sauce (The Butcher’s Market/Woodstock); Memphis style dry rub ribs; pulled pork; brisket; baked beans; chunky tomato-and-meat Brunswick stew; thick-cut grilled ham steak on stone-ground grits, caramelized Vidalia onions; pizza with salami, mozzarella and cherry tomatoes; grilled or roasted vegetables; burgers with blue cheese. Distributors: Prestige Wine Wholesale $13.00 2009 Chateau Bonnet Bordeaux Rose Review Date - 7/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Does it come as a surprise to you that Bordeaux does pink wine? Well, believe it. This rose’ comes from a winery founded in the late 19th century in Entre deux Mers, a chunk of land lying between the two principal bodies of water in Bordeaux: The Garonne and the Dordogne. So although they are not by any stretch seas, their substantial width has caused them to be thought of as such in times past. This rose’ is a lively version of the genre, with a lovely pale red color. Aromas gather all the known red fruits, it seems, with suggestions of some of the candied forms, especially cherry. Made of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a classic, offering flavors that hit on all the red grape perspectives, from cherry to strawberries and raspberries. Serve at cool temperatures, about 60F/15C, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. A lovely value. Suggested Food Pairings: Bring it on!!! Grilled ham steak (tasted at Rosebud) with roasted Vidalia onion; shrimp and grits with tasso ham or pancetta; barbecue with medium-bodied tomato-based sauce (The Butcher’s Market/Woodstock); smoked pulled pork; Thai fare; Chinese barbecue; composed salads with legumes, sandwiches with salamis (muffaletta), sliced ham, ham salad, pizza. Distributors: Georgia Crown $13.00 2009 Mont Tauch Le Dog d'Anais Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 7/1/2011 Score - 87 Tasting Note: A Sauvignon Blanc with broad appeal is what you get in this Sauvignon Blanc from Tuchan, in the pay d’Oc, southern France, between Perpignan and Carcassonne. Showing a medium pale golden straw color, this dry white wine does best after having been open a little while and served not too cold. Then the aromas reveal a bit of the grape’s herbaceous character, while on the palate, a pleasing stony mineralty adds interest to the fruit. The finish is long, crisp and clean. A very decent value. Serve at about 55F/13C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. I even like it a little warmer than that, but most folks probably wouldn’t. Suggested Food Pairings: Oysters with lemon, either raw, slightly steamed or baked; steamed clams with fresh herbs and garlic; shrimp in the shell sauteed in olive oil, garlic and some of this wine; chicken salad; potato puffs or fritters with herbs; grilled chicken sausage; goat feta cheese in olive oil, garlic and fresh herbs;fried catfish with tartar sauce; baked crumbed bay scallops; baked mild fresh fish with a Spanish salsa verde (olive oil, garlic and minced fresh herbs); grilled whole trout stuffed with fresh oregano, parsley and marjoram plus a bit of minced pancetta. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $13.00 Scharffenberger Brut Rose NV Review Date - 7/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: What better way to start off a party than with something sparkling? Or something pink? Put them together and you’ve got a guaranteed success formula. This sparkling brut rose’ comes from vineyards in Anderson Valley and Mendocino County; from its color (a lovely salmon pink) to its aromas (red fruits galore) to its complex flavors (red fruits with touches of spice), this is a palate-perking dry sparkling wine produced using the traditional method, with secondary fermentation in the bottle. Good acidity (.65), moderately low pH (3.33); and moderate alcohol (12%) are indicators of its classicism. The crisp, dry finish is most palate refreshing. Ok, you could sink a big strawberry into it, but personally I’d rather let the wine itself talk the strawberry talk. This is just delicious, and perfect on a raving warm day for any of a number of purposes. Serve it cool, about 50F/10C in either Champagne flutes or (better so the aromas are captured) in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Brut rose’ and spice-rubbed baby back ribs (Sam‘s BBQ1 or Bub-Ba-Q in Woodstock are good choices) ; you gotta try it. Appetizers, including ham croquetas; empanadas; cured chorizo slices; grilled shrimp; bacon-wrapped scallops with remoulade sauce. Grilled thick ham steak with sweet-potato-stuffed baked Vidalia onions; pulled pork and a mild tomato-based barbecue sauce (see The Butcher’s Market in Woodstock); roasted, fried or barbecued chicken. Distributors: Empire Distributing $24.00 2008 Sant Elena Sauvignon I.G.T. Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Italy tends to use the word “Sauvignon” to designate this varietal, not Sauvignon Bianco, as one might expect. This example comes from the northeastern region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, abutting Slovenia and the Adriatic Sea. Sporting a medium gold color, this full-bodied wine tilts toward the white melon/fig style of Sauvignon Blanc in the aromas, while the palate experiences pineapple, custard and citrus. Alcohol is surprisingly high (14%) and the wine shows a bit of heat in the finish, although the final taste of fresh fruit counters it to some extent. The extremes of the varietal’s character are downplayed--especially absent is the grassy/herbaceous element--and fruit is emphasized. Suggested Food Pairings: Give it richness to counter the alcohol/heat. Seafood in creamy sauces over pasta; seafood lasagna; seafood terrine; seafood sausage in beurre blanc; vegetable terrine; vegetable timbale with lemon butter/herbs; vegetable quesadilla; chicken in a creamy sauce; pasta salad with smoked mozzarella, creamy dressing, garlic (Whole Foods). Distributors: Vinifera $22.00 2009 Domaine Gayda Three Winds Indication Geographique Protegee Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: In 2009 French label law governing wines created the designation Indication Geographique Protegee, which replaces such terms as “vin de pays“ (VDP), and will be Europe-wide. The label also carries a specific geographic region of origin, in this case pays d’Oc. This good-value wine is made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc, and is fermented and aged on its lees in stainless steel, a dimension that enhances complexity. The wine’s medium gold color has good visual appeal, while the aromas hint at tropical fruit (a suggestion of pineapple and banana) and white melon. The palate enjoys a tumble of tropical fruits, again suggesting pineapple and banana. The finish is crisp and clean. Let this one breathe a bit before pouring as it definitely develops in the glass. Domaine Gayda is located southeast of Carcassone, an ancient walled city. Suggested Food Pairings: Green olive tapanade; herbed goat cheese; smoked mozzarella; pasta salad with spinach, garlic and creamy dressing (Whole Foods) ; fish tacos made with tilapia or other mild white fish; crab-stuffed flounder with butter; gently smoked white fish; hummus; potato salad with herbs and mayonnaise/sour cream; potato croquettes or fritters; grilled eggplant and zucchini with goat cheese and fresh herbs; composed salads with chicken or seafood. Distributors: Continental Beverage $13.00 2010 Mapema Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: High altitude (almost 4000 feet above sea level) plays a role in the purity of flavors found in this Sauvignon Blanc from Tupungato, Argentina. Medium- full-bodied, this example shows a medium greenish straw color. Classic Sauvignon Blanc characters compose the aromas of grapefruit and fresh herbs, which extend to the palate. Think red grapefruit particularly. Mostly done in stainless steel, the wine’s 10% subjected to brief oak doesn’t at all run the flavor profile. Instead, it’s job is to impart a slight roundness to the texture. The wine retains lively acidity for a firm, fresh finish that shows substance and persistence. A real pleasure on the palate. Best if not too cold. Very fine value. Suggested Food Pairings: Green olive tapanade or green olives stuffed with almonds or garlic; pasta salad with spinach and smoked mozzarella cheese; stir fries with pea pods and broccoli; broccolini salad; mild white fish with herbed butter/olive oil; grilled scallops or shrimp. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $13.00 2010 Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: New Zealand cut its viticultural teeth on Sauvignon Blanc, which reigns as its most important grape type. And Marlborough, on the country’s South Island (northeastern tip) holds its preeminent position as the nation’s largest wine producer, with 62% of the country’s total vineyard area. This full-bodied example, one of the Foley Family Wines portfolio from Sonoma, CA, comes from two main sub-regions: Awatere Valley (61%) and Wairau Valley (39%). The former gets credit for the wine’s minerality, while the latter gets raves for its aromatics. The aromas go to the green bell pepper character one often finds in the variety, while the palate courses in the direction of New Zealand’s classic grapefruit/melon/passion fruit profile. Good acidity and a low ph mean the finish is brisk and vivacious. Total lip-smacker, and a really great value. Suggested Food Pairings: Green olive tapanade; Vietnamese, Thai and other Asian seafood, vegetable and chicken dishes with some spice (but not heat); bay scallops and small shrimp in sour cream and dill (chilled); green papaya salad; cheese-stuffed ravioli with herb butter and lemon; roasted whole fish with lemon/herb butter; green salad with a crumbed, fried round of goat cheese, lemon/olive oil/garlic dressing; sushi; mussels with lemongrass, garlic and white wine or with soy sauce and ginger; Asian noodle dishes with seafood or chicken (e.g., pad Thai) with some spice but not heat. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $11.00 2010 Bradgate Sauvignon Blanc - Chenin Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: With backgrounds in geology and economics respectively, Gary and Kathy Jordan are South Africa’s first husband-and-wife winemaking duo. The pair uses either Jardin or Bradgate labels for their wines in the U.S., as they clearly cannot use their Jordan label here. This wine, 77% Sauvignon Blanc/23% Chenin Blanc, seems to say Loire Valley all in one wine, yet it’s from South Africa. The slightly golden straw color suggests 2richness, while the aromas reveal the classic bell pepper character that is a marker for South African Sauvignon Blanc. On the palate, bell pepper that might by itself be too aggressive is softened by the addition of Chenin Blanc, South Africa’s most widely planted grape and workhorse white wine grape. It lends touches of pear to the mix, yet Sauvignon Blanc clearly dominates. As the wine finishes, a suggestion of canned asparagus (another marker for South African Sauvignon Blanc) attends the final flourish. Suggested Food Pairings: Mild curries with chicken or seafood; she-crab bisque; fried fish or seafood with garlic/lemon aïoli; crisply fried potato cubes with minced cilantro; composed salads with fresh vegetables. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $13.00 2009 Emmolo Wine Company Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Napa Valley isn’t exactly known for Sauvignon Blanc, but here and there a few examples are to be found in the land of Cabernet Sauvignon. After all, Sauvignon Blanc is one of its parents. Winemaker Charlie Wagner used unlined cement tanks to ferment this wine after whole cluster pressing, a method that enhances fruit characters. Lacking lining, the tanks allow the wine to breathe, thus creating a circumstance fostering microxygenation. Fermentation in this vessel is slow, ensuring greater depth than would otherwise have been possible. An intriguing if elusive rose petal aroma emerges from the glass after the wine has been open for a short while and had a chance to warm up in the glass. On the palate, white melon and citrus craft a delicate flavor profile. This wine’s texture is one of its most appealing aspects, it’s round, silky and soft, yet good acidity shows up in the finish to close the book with grace and charm. Suggested Food Pairings: Delicate fare: softly smoked halibut or other white fish (Mr. Fish at Buford Hwy. Farmers Market); scallop carpaccio; sashimi of mild white fish; cocktail potatoes stuffed with cream cheese and herbs; creamy goat cheese; pecan-crusted catfish; fresh cod with butter and herbs. Winery suggests a salad of arugula with goat cheese and a soft dressing. Distributors: Ultimate Distributors $17.00 2009 Parducci Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: With a commitment to sustainability and green practices, Parducci today is owned by winemaker Paul Dolan, along with Tim, Thomas and Tommy Thornhill as partners. Still located in Mendocino County, a part of California I especially enjoy, the enterprise was founded there in the 1920s by Adolph and Elizabeth Parducci, who produced sacramental wine through Prohibition. Its 340 farmed acres are all biodynamic. The facility produces 125,000 cases of Parducci wine. But a large section is wetlands designed to recover the water that is used in the winery. The medium straw color shows some greenish lights, and the aromas convey a classic melon/fig profile with an underpinning of fresh herbs. On the palate, rich white melon-focused flavors with a firm acid backbone are refreshing and crisp. A great summer wine, this full-bodied Sauvignon Blanc likes food, but also makes a great solo sipper. Terrific value. Suggested Food Pairings: Gently smoked halibut (Mr. Fish at Buford Hwy. Farmers Market); crab legs with lemon drawn butter; pecan-crusted sauteed catfish; garlic shrimp; seafood-stuffed egg rolls; seafood terrine or seafood lasagna; classic chicken salad; poached chilled chicken with a tracing of aïoli; potato fritters; hummus; grilled vegetables with olive oil and garlic. Distributors: National Distributing Co. $12.00 2009 Chateau Souverain Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Sauvignon Blanc that sees too much oak can lose its character quickly under a blanket of wood. A winemaker has to be very careful to balance the blend, including some stainless steel-fermented juice. The advantage to the oak is the ability to craft richness, but to do that, neutral oak should be used, not new. And the aging period has to be brief. That’s what you get in this Sauvignon Blanc. Souverain’s estate in Alexander Valley is 120 years old, and the winery goes back to 1944. With a medium greenish gold color, the wine presents an almost floral (honeysuckle? Citrus blossoms?) character, with notes of freshly cut herbs and citrus zest. On the palate, layers of flavors range from citrus zest and passion fruit to melon, and good acidity helps the flavors linger on the palate I really like this one close to room temperature. Suggested Food Pairings: Dishes with some richness: Creamy goat cheese; creamy chicken or seafood salad with mild curry; baked Vidalia onions stuffed with greens; baked goat cheese-stuffed chicken breast; fried green tomatoes with ranch dressing. The winery suggests herb-crusted salmon and roast chicken with tarragon. Distributors: United Distributors $14.00 2009 Shannon Ridge Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Farmed in a variety of sites in Lake County, the grapes for this Sauvignon Blanc capture a wide range of flavors, resulting in a complex, interesting flavor profile. The wine’s clean bright straw color has good eye appeal. .Aromas present citrus and gooseberry characters, with flavors that continue those traits and pick up touches of ripe passion fruit and other tropicals. The suggestion of citrus zest (grapefruit) adds yet another note to the complexity of this wine. A bit of residual sugar (just .25%) is detectable only in the texture, as it rounds out the substantial acidity (.71). A long finish is the final reward. Suggested Food Pairings: Crab cakes; goat cheese with fresh herbs and garlic; shrimp and bay scallops in creamy herb dressing; potato fritters or Greek potatoes with tsasiki sauce; fried fish with tartar sauce or lemon/garlic aïoli; King crab legs with lemon drawn butter; baked white fish with salsa verde (butter/olive oil/garlic and lots of fresh herbs); pasta with parsley pesto; white pizza; baked crab-stuffed flounder with butter and garlic; Vidalia onion tart; baked Vidalia onions stuffed with sweet potato puree. Distributors: Empire Distributors $16.00 2009 Henri Bourgeois Le MD de Bourgeois Sancerre Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: For many of the appellations of the Loire Valley, Sauvignon Blanc is the dominant white wine grape, among them Sancerre in the Upper Loire. Quincy, Pouilly-Fume and, at the easatern end, Menetou-Salon also are among the Sauvignon Blanc appellations of the Loire Valley. Henri Bourgeois, who also has an operation in New Zealand (Clos-Henri), produces several Sancerre wines. This one comes from vines that are 35-45 years old as of the 2009 vintage, and are planted on Kimmeridgian marl--in other words a soil of fossilized seashells and clay. The sea shells account for the wine’s fine minerality, while the clay holds vine-sustaining moisture. Full bodied and showing a medium golden straw color, the wine reveals evolved fruit aromas that suggest very gentle white grapefruit zest, some herb and a hint of aromatic spice (caraway seed?). Flavors repeat the grapefruit zest theme, and the good acidity follows up to seal the deal. While the winery recommends a serving temperature of 50-55F/10-12C, I find that’s too cold, and think 55-60F/13-15C a better idea. The winery suggests 3-5 years of bottle aging, so there are a few left on that estimate, but proper cellaring is required to enhance the probability of success. Suggested Food Pairings: Baked or sauteed white fish (catfish; fresh cod; flounder) in an herbed, garlicky butter sauce; green olive tapanade; potato salad; potato croquettes or fritters, such as homemade Tater Tots, with an aioli dipping sauce; grilled chicken salad on greens with vegetables and a Dijon mustard-influenced dressing; soft-shell crabs sauteed in butter; sundry creamy or medium soft cheeses with rich, full flavors (the winery suggests Muenster, but that may be a bit much for this wine). Winery also suggests veal scallops stuffed with prawns and marjoram. Distributors: Unique World Wines $30.00 2009 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Reserve Speciale Bordeaux Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: In Bordeaux, on both banks, white grapes grown lead with Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon (on the left bank) will play a secondary role. Muscadelle sometimes figures in as well. In this case, Sémillon leads (60%) and Sauvignon Blanc (40%) is secondary, but still makes its presence keenly felt in aromas that display hints of grapefruit zest and pineapple; That grapefruit zest character is thanks to Sauvignon Blanc. On the palate, this full-bodied wine delivers a round textural mouthfeel, thanks partly to a bit of residual sugar--not enough for the wine to taste sweet but enough to deliver the sense of roundness. Moderate acidity, just 3.6 g/l, and ph (3.50) make this a good cocktail wine, as it’s soft and delivers a good bit of fruit. Alcohol is moderate--12%. A good introduction to the genre (white Bordeaux), especially for wine lovers not familiar with the genre, whose grassy grapefruit character sometimes can be quite aggressive. Suggested Food Pairings: Fried calamari with lemon/garlic aïoli; goat camembert; bay scallops sautéed with cream and herbs; baked mild fish; crab cakes (cocktail size for an aperitif is nice). Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $17.00 2008 Surazo Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: From Chile’s Rapel valley (Region VI), comes this classic Southern hemisphere Sauvignon Blanc. The name Surazo references a cooling breeze that wafts across the land. This example shows a pale greenish straw color, while the delicate aromas suggest citrus, melon and pear. On the palate, the pear/melon profile dominates, suggesting the grapes saw good exposure to sunlight. Despite relatively high alcohol (14%), this is a fairly easy sipping wine, so a good introduction to the genre, although as the wine warms, a bit of heat begins to generate. Keep it fairly cold to temper the alcohol. Good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Makes a good sipping wine as a cocktail. Vidalia onion tarts (cocktail size); seafood in creamy sauces; shrimp/scallops in a garlic cream sauce on grits or mashed potatoes; poached chilled fish or chicken with a creamy dressing; creamy goat camembert (CalyRoad Creamery, Sandy Springs). Distributors: Allgood Distributing $10.00 2009 Domaine de Ballade Cotes de Gascogne Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Basque-related, Gascony (Gascogne in French) is the land of D’Artagnan, for all you Muskateers fans, foie gras and Armagnac. Both white and red wines are produced in this region, with whites often blending varieties, as in this example, composed of Sauvignon Blanc (70%) and Colombard (30%), the latter rarely seen in this country but still grown in South Africa. Medium greenish golden straw in color, the wine shows a lovely citrus-tinged aroma that hints at a whiff of spice (cardamom?); grapefruit nuances in the aromas reappear in the flavors, with excellent acidity picking up the pace throughout the finish. The creamy texture is a highlight. What a value! This one really does not like to be served wicked cold. Now at cool room temperature, it’s showing so much more character, complexity and depth of flavor. Suggested Food Pairings: Delicately smoked white fish; crab-stuffed avocado with light lime-scented dressing; seared sea scallop on arugula, lemongrass vinaigrette; fresh cod with lemon butter, herbs and capers; roasted striped bass (wild caught); baked Vidalia onions stuffed with greens (collard greens or Swiss chard). Distributors: Ultimate Distributors $12.00 2008 Vinos de Arganza La Mano Mencia Roble Review Date - 5/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: I know what you’re thinking. What the hell is Mencia (men-THEE-ya)?. It’s a grape type that’s the specialty of Bierzo (bee-AIR-tho) in northwestern central Spain. Wines from this region may not be familiar, but once you’ve tasted one, you’ll seek them out. They represent great values and offer widely appealing flavors and food companionability. Thankfully, they’re becoming more commonly available in this market and around the South. Thought to be related to Cabernet Franc, Mencia wines, like this one, exhibit a deeply colored, inky, opaque crimson color. The aromas deliver an upfront earthy note, followed by with a touch of dried herb and dark fruit scents. Complex, layered and concentrated, the wine delivers warm spice-accented dark fruit flavors on the palate along with silky tannins. The wine ages briefly (3 months) in American oak, but is not at all overpowered by the typically more aggressive American oak. Superior value. Serve at cool room temperatures, around 60-65F/15-17C. Use large-bowled tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured country-style terrines; grilled steak; barbecue (Memphis-style dry-rubbed ribs); grilled sausages; grilled butterflied boneless leg of lamb; smoked meats; firm, well-aged cheeses. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $12.00 2008 Demarie Nebbiolo D. O. C. Review Date - 5/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Nebbiolo is the grape of Barbaresco and Barolo, the great wines of the Italian Piedmont. But this example is not the heavily tannic sort of wine those are, requiring long bottle aging to be approachable. Instead, this wine, from the Langhe in Piedmont, is fermented in stainless steel vats and aged a mere four months in oak barrels. The translucent darkcherry color heralds a medium-bodied dry red wine with soft tannins, making it most approachable for many audiences. Appealing delicate aromas focus on cherry with ample brown spice notes. On the palate, the flavors bloom, with baked cherry and red fruit confit characters, along with more spice notes. The tannins are just plain tasty, fruit derived, and not at all harsh. They will be further softened by some richness and fat in food. This is a wine that is impossible to dislike, even for folks skittish about red wines. Mouth-filling and alluring, the wine also is a fine cocktail sipper with small bites of food. Serve at 60-65F/15-17C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Roasted assorted vegetables; bruschetta topped with minced roasted or grilled vegetables; cannelini beans cooked slowly to the creamy stage with ham and herbs; vegetable lasagna; grilled vegetable panini; roast chicken; roast pork tenderloin; smoked pork; grilled sausages. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $20.00 2009 Montaluce Winery & Estates Primoro Review Date - 5/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: In Georgia’s northern Appalachian foothills, winemakers are busy proving they can make terrific wine in “them thar hills.” At Montaluce, just outside of Dahlonega, the work is on! For Primoro, Montaluce uses estate-grown Vidal Blanc and Seyval Blanc, both French-American hybrids. This medium-bodied dry white wine is a perfect summer sipper, with traces of pineapple and yellow stone fruit lifting the citrus-rich aromas. On the palate, more pineapple and yellow stone fruit, with good acidity (about .6) and a long finish that shows fruit and acid in balance. The intense fruit may lead you to think the wine is sweet, but in fact what you’re sensing is fruit sweetness. Residual sugar is a low 5 grams per liter, below the sweetness threshold for most tasters. As the wine opens in the glass, it becomes more complex and finds food a more kindred spirit than when it’s frosty cold. Serve in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses at around 55F/13C. Suggested Food Pairings: Flat Creek Lodge Gouda; salmon patties or croquettes; baked chicken breast stuffed with herbed goat cheese (but no rosemary!); smoked fish; paella; chicken pot pie; grilled chicken salad with assorted yellow fruits. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $16.00 2010 Robert Oatley Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 5/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: There are times when the aggressive characters of Sauvignon Blanc can be off-putting: too much green bell pepper; an overrun of grapefruit; cut grass to make you sneeze canned peas and asparagus. Then there’s that old cat’s pee thing, a real turn-off for a lot of consumers. Nuances of these characters are fine, but often Sauvignon Blanc can express them to excess, and that’s not fun for most folk. Finding a Sauvignon Blanc that presents a balance of clear varietal characters is a real treat, and results in a wine that will please a wide variety of palate preferences. Such is the case with this example. Very pale greenish straw introduces a medium-bodied wine that presents aromas of gooseberry with flavors that capture white grapefruit and gooseberry. Good acidity leaves the palate refreshed, and the finish is crisp, long and clean. Serve at cool temperatures, about 55F/13C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Serviceable with a wide range of foods, and a very fine value. Suggested Food Pairings: Crab cakes; raw oysters with lemon; cornmeal-crusted deep-fried oysters or fish with tartar sauce or aïoli; fresh corn soufflé or timbale with beurre blanc; crumbed, herbed goat cheese lightly sautéed on a lightly dressed salad; roasted chicken breast on a bed of fennel, onion and potato slices; smoked white fish salad spread on cucumber rounds; spanikopita. Distributors: National Distributing $12.00 2010 Domaine de Triennes Rose Review Date - 5/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: A project emerging from the collective smarts of Burgundy geniuses Jacques Seysses (Domaine Dujac), along with Aubert de Villaine (co-owner Domaine de la Romanee-Conti) and Michel Macaux, Trienne Provence rose is the product of their shared belief in the potential greatness of wines from Provence. Made mostly from Cinsault (with some Syrah, Merlot and Grfenache), this wine shows a lovely light pink color, the result of very brief skin/juice contact (just two to three hours). Fresh, delicate and elegant, this is a wine for many seasons and a wide range of foods. Delicate and shy at first, it gains depth and fruit with just about a half hour in the glass. At an hour, it was just bursting with delicious red fruit character. Juicy, with a hint of banana and a good hit of acidity, this is a subtle wine with lively fruit and a refreshing finish. This pink is dry, but has good fruit sweetness. While the temptation is to serve it really cold, I think it shows its mettle at about 55F/13C. Use a tulip-shaped medium-tall white-wine glass. A perfect bridesmaids’ luncheon wine. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled shrimp; bacon-wrapped scallops (remoulade sauce); barbecued chicken wings; teriyaki chicken; smoked pork tenderloin; shrimp or chicken fajitas; ham salad; roast ham. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $15.00 2010 Kim Crawford Wines Unoaked Chardonnay Review Date - 5/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: A definite all-around crowd pleaser, this Chardonnay won’t horrify folks who enjoy a lot of oak in their Chardonnay nor will it trample on sensitive oak-averse palates as it’s done in stainless steel. The grapes come from Marlborough, New Zealand’s most important wine-growing region on the northeastern tip of the South Island. The wine undergoes a fair amount of malolactic fermentation, so acidity is tamed yet still presents enough to cleanse the palate and enable food pairing. This full-bodied fruit-driven Chardonnay exhibits a lovely straw color and a clean aroma and palate profile of crisp apple, tropical and ripe stone fruits. Complex and rich with a silky texture (thanks again to that malolactic fermentation), the wine finishes long, crisp and clean. Serve at moderately chilled temperatures, about 55F/13C. Suggested Food Pairings: Creamed crab on toast; pasta with creamy seafood sauce; baked flounder stuffed with crab meat; poached, chilled chicken breast with a creamy lightly curry-accented dressing; seafood and white meat chicken dishes with mild Asian flavors; terrific cheese wine with creamy mild cheeses (well-ripened Camembert). Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $17.00 2010 Peter Lehmann Layers Review Date - 5/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: A total fruit salad, this off-dry white wine blends classic citrus-laden Australian Semillon with Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. Showing a pale yellow color with greenish highlights, the blend yields myriad fruit characters, beginning with a delicate aroma of pear and just a hint of Gewurztraminer’s lichee nut. On the palate, the wine offers white stone fruit and citrus, leading to a clean, crisp finish. The fruit comes from Barossa Valley and the Adelaide Hills. Another advantage to the wine for party purposes is its moderate alcohol: 11.5%. Good acidity makes it able to pair with many foods. Serve in medium-sized tulip-shaped white-wine glasses at a temperature of abut 55F/13C. Not a keeper; drink now. Suggested Food Pairings: Especially good with seafood, pork or chicken dishes that bring Asian flavors into the picture: Mild curried chicken salad; crab cakes with mango salsa; grilled shrimp with remoulade sauce; grilled bacon-wrapped scallops; poached or baked salmon with Bearnaise sauce; smoked fish (not to heavily infused with smoke--smoked whitefish or trout); goat cheese. Distributors: Empire Distributing $13.00 2008 Landmark Grande Pinot Noir Grand Detour Review Date - 5/1/2011 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Sonoma Coast yields some of my favorite California Pinot Noirs. The reason is that they tend to be more savory, more elegant and less fruit-bomb-y than many of their brethren from elsewhere in the Golden State. This medium-bodied example blends fruit from a variety of Sonoma Coast vineyards. Exhibiting a medium-deep cherry red color, the wine offers aromas of dried herb, tea and black cherry. On the palate black cherry, tea and a slight touch of vanilla (from oak) are framed by soft tannins. Good acidity leads the fruit to a long, savory, delectable finish. A terrific wine for food, this is not inexpensive; yet, it’s a terrific value for what it delivers. Were this a Burgundy, its price would likely be a good bit higher. Serve at cool temperatures, about 65F/17C, in a proper Burgundy glass (round bowl). Ageworthy if well cellared for another 3-5 years. Perfect for that after-wedding private supper. Suggested Food Pairings: Duck or goose liver mousse; grilled salmon; lamb, duck or filet mignon (skip the bacon band); chicken teriyaki; roast chicken or duck; mushrooms; mild, ripe cheeses (Decimal Place Farm, Conley, GA, goat cheddar at room temperature). Distributors: National Distributing $40.00 2009 Wolf Mountain Vineyards Brut Rose Review Date - 5/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: This north Georgia winery adds a bit of one of its red blend wines (Claret) to the dosage for the Blanc de Blancs to produce a lovely light salmon pink hue in this dry sparkling wine. Wolf produces its sparklers in the traditional method, with secondary fermentation occurring in the bottle. Bottles are kept under the crown cap and are not cork finished, but the bottle is hand dipped in wax for a spectacular package. The infusion of red wine in the dosage affects more than the wine’s color: You’ll pick up the aroma of red berries and enhanced complexity on the palate. Delicate yet definitive, this brut rose is festive and delectable, with great eye appeal not only from the color, but also from the steady small bead and fine mousse. Serve in tulip-shaped flutes or tulip-shaped white wine glasses at about 55F/13C. Suggested Food Pairings: Roast ham with honey mustard sauce; fried chicken; baby back ribs; fresh corn soufflee; roast chicken; Country Captain (baked chicken with light curry tomato, currants and almonds); poached or baked salmon; grilled bacon-wrapped scallops. Winery suggests smoked duck breast. Distributors: From the winery $28.00 2008 Stangeland Pinot Noir Review Date - 5/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Pinot Noir is perhaps the most flexible of all red wine grapes when it comes to pairing wine and food. But it’s also among the most expensive, because the grape is difficult to grow. From Willamette Valley, this selection shows a lovely translucent garnet red. Aromas focus on savory characters, with a background of red berries. Tannins are soft, and embrace a cluster of ripe fruit, including black cherry and red raspberry. The finish is clean and delectably fruit-filled. Gathering fruit from several sites in the Willamette Valley, Oregon, this is a terrific value in Oregon Pinot Noir. Very important: Serve this wine cool, about 65F/17C, in round-bowl Burgundy glasses. It makes a difference when pairing with food. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled salmon; baked crumbed/herbed chicken breast with a touch of garlic; very mild curried chicken salad; grilled chicken salad; grilled lamb chop; duck breast; roast chicken; pasta with smoked mozzarella and shredded spinach; mild cheeses. Distributors: Artisan Vines $16.00 Gruet Winery Demi-Sec Sparkling Wine NV Review Date - 5/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: The classically built sparkling wines from New Mexico’s Gruet, a producer of French origins, include this slightly sweet bubbly that exhibits a lovely medium gold color and dellicate fruit aromas. The creamy texture and lively fruit flavors are mouth filling and delectable. Good acidity supports a long finish that promotes flavors of green apple and pear. The wine shows rich fruit and a clean, distinctive closure. The mousse is generous at the outset but doesn’t endure. Still, the flavors keep one close to the glass. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C in either tulip-shaped flutes or white wine glasses (increasingly preferred for sparkling wine and Champagne). Good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Really good with Hummingbird cake with cream cheese frosting (which would make a great wedding cake); dense yellow cake with white icing; poached chilled fruit with crème anglaise. At other times, it would be terrific with Asian dishes that had a bit of spice (but not wicked hot). Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $15.00 2008 Shingleback Red Knot Shiraz Review Date - 5/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: For tying the knot with a fine value selection when red meat is the order of the day, this is the wine of choice. Great for a large audience of various preferences, it shows ripe upfront fresh red and black fruits that compose interesting aroma and flavor profiles; although not particularly complex or challenging. Deep, well-extracted purple red in color, the medium-full-bodied wine is an ideal choice in red wines for a large audience. Tannins are easy, and the fruit runs the show. Both American and French oak have been used to mature this wine, yet neither dominates the sweet, juicy fruit. Well balanced from every perspective, it comes to this market from home base South Australia. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65F/17C, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Terrific value. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured country-style terrines; smoked pork ribs with a Memphis-style rub; steak; grilled lamb shoulder chop; meat-filled casseroles or meat pies; firm, aged cheeses; medium dark chocolate. Distributors: Empire Distributing $13.00 2008 Dominio de Eguren Protocolo Review Date - 4/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Tempranillo is Spain’s go-to red wine grape, and it’s well presented in this value-driven wine. Dark berries, floral characters and a dab of vanilla from American oak, which many Spanish winemakers have used traditionally especially with Tempranillo. On the palate, juicy dark fruit flavors are nicely framed by relatively soft tannins. Long in the finish, the wine shows a seductive juiciness and depth of flavor that are amazing at this price. Serve cool, about 67-8F/16-17C in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. While it’s terrific with grilled meats, it also does nicely with legumes or other hefty proteins. For this money, you’ll go a long way to find yourself a juicier mouthful. Great value. Suggested Food Pairings: Veggie fajitas or burritos; refried beans with melted American cheese; stewed okra and tomatoes; red beans and rice; Southwest-style black bean and corn stew with cumin; garbanzo bean stew; fabada (fava bean stew from Asturias made with sausages and ham); barbecued tofu, patatas bravas; eggplant fries. Distributors: Prestige Wine Wholesale $8.00 2008 Henry Fessy Morgon Crus du Beaujolais Review Date - 4/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: A lighter-bodied red wine can be a life-saver where vegetable dishes are concerned. Morgon offers the kind of cherry and plum characters with aromas and flavors that seem to draw strength from Burgundy. Soft and elegant, with some spice, the wine exhibits flavors that do not show excessive reliance on carbonic maceration, nor is the wine filtered. The Gamay variety shows its stuff throughout the wine, which shows a lovely crimson color. Properly corked and stored in the fridge, the wine keeps well over two-three nights, making it a terrific choice for solo sippers. Serve it cool (as with all Beaujolais) around 65F/17F, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. This is a winner. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled vegetable skewers; ratatouille; three pepper-topped bruschetta; roasted root vegetables; vegetable pies; legumes; moo shoo vegetables with Hoisin sauce; vegetable egg foo yung; lighter-bodied vegetable stews with tomato and okra; vegetable tagine; cous cous with vegetables; eggplant dishes; moo shoo vegetables; vegetable fried rice; mild cheeses. On meat nights, consider roast chicken or duck. Distributors: Empire Distributing $17.00 2008 Oliverhill Red Silk Shiraz Review Date - 4/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Often the red wines of South East Australia can be too high in alcohol to pair nicely with vegetable dishes, but Red Silk is an exception. In fact, Red Silk is exceptional on several fronts. Although the label would lead one to believe this were not a serious piece of work, it is in fact a seriously made wine. Full-bodied with rich dark fruit aromas and flavors, the wine opens a little monochromatically, but rewards patience. Soon, lovely blueberry characters join the dark and red fruits with which it opened, and adds notes of chocolate and suddenly is that a hint of black olive? Decanting perhaps an hour ahead of serving should reward with good complexity, but if you like to keep a bottle of wine in the fridge to savor it over several days, you will enjoy its evolution. Tannins are soft and supple. Plenty of personality, character and flavor propel this mouth-filling, delicious red wine from McLaren Vale to the front of the class. A potential near-term keeper for another year or so. Alcohol is a high 14.5%, but doesn’t read hot at all. Serve at cool room temperatures, 68F/17C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Robust root vegetable stews either vegetarian or with a bit of ham or pancetta for seasoning; vegetable pot pie; vegetatable lasagna or moussaka; veggie shepherd’s pie (with a topping of mashed potatoes); legume-based dishes. Then on a meat night spring it for a steak. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $17.00 2007 Foris Dry Gewurztraminer Review Date - 4/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Many consumers assume that Gewurztraminer and Riesling are by definition sweet. Well, they’re not. Dry Gewurztraminer, like dry Riesling, has a number of food-pairing uses that are different in some respects from their sweeter relatives. Dry Gewurztraminer and roast turkey are perhaps perfection. This example, which hails from southern Oregon, won’t do all that well with spicier dishes, as it’s a drier (or off-dry) style. The medium straw color with greenish tones appeals to the eye, while the aromatic characters present fairly delicate floral, ginger and spice notes that become more prominent on the palate. Soft, silky and well structured, this is a beautiful wine for myriad occasions, but don’t confuse it with dessert Gewurztraminer as it won’t handle anything too sweet. Serve moderately chilled, about 50F/10C, in medium-tall tulip-shaped glasses. Good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Vidalia onion pie in the Alsace manner; baked Vidalia onions stuffed with sweet potato or butternut squash puree; roasted fennel and white potatoes with garlic; roasted cabbage with roasted potatoes and onions; whole-grain mustard; baked okra, tomatoes and red bell pepper; Southwest stew of black beans and corn; Moroccan vegetable tagine (hold the harissa); curried mixed vegetables (not too hot); roasted cabbage and buttermilk garlic mashed potatoes, lightly curried vegetable wrap; whole grain mustard; creamy French Muenster cheese that’s moderately ripe. For splurging, try smoked pork chops (from The Butcher’s Market in Woodstock) with sauerkraut and mashed spuds. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $14.00 2007 Barnard Griffin Merlot Review Date - 4/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: In Washington State, they grow this thumb-thick asparagus that in its season is as cherished as the white spargel in Germany. In Washington, asparagus appears in every fashion imaginable, from pickled to grilled to steamed. Theoretically, asparagus (like artichokes) will defy wine pairing. Now here’s the surprise: Pair asparagus (the green one) with a Washington State Merlot. This example, a medium-bodied dry red wine, is mostly Merlot, with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot--all classic Bordeaux varieties. The youthful rose-edged purple color is opaque, and the aromas present lush dark and red fruits, with a bit of cocoa on the finish. Silky tannins and an appealing texture make it palate friendly, although I would like more complexity. Despite high-ish alcohol (13.5%), the wine does not come across hot. I tasted three Washington State Merlots and chose this one at least partly because the finish didn’t come across like a lit liquid match. The wine spends 18 months in “European oak,” which means (in all likelihood) mostly French, with perhaps some Slovenian and/or some Hungarian. Serve the wine cool, about 65-68F/17-18C, and use tall tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Vegetable fajitas; baked eggplant; grilled Japanese eggplant; vegetable pot pie; vegetable empanadas; veggie quesadillas; stewed okra, tomatoes and peppers; quiche with ham and mushrooms; and of course that asparagus. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $14.00 Alvear Fino Montilla-Moriles NV Review Date - 4/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Because wines from Montilla-Moriles, near Cordoba, are generally not fortified, their alcohol levels are just a notch lower than Sherries. This 100% Pedro Ximenez dry wine--usually you see that grape making super sweet wines--is just like a fino Sherry in color (very pale straw) and tangy, bracingly aromas that remind one of salt air. Technically, although you’ll see this wine referred to as a Sherry, it’s not for two reasons: First, it’s not made in the traditional Sherry zone, which lies substantially west of here and second, it’s not fortified. Thus, at 15% alcohol, it’s less alcoholic than a Sherry, which typically will come in at 17% alcohol or higher. Serve this wine very chilled, about 45F/7C, in small “copitas” or tulip-shaped glasses as an aperitif. This is not a dessert wine. Most consumers find a dry Sherry (or Montilla-Moriles) difficult to like at first blush, although I confess to having acquired a taste for it straight away. Serving it chilled and with the proper foods will make it easier for first-timers to like it. Suggested Food Pairings: Salted roasted almonds (the salt part is important); well-cured green olives; sauteed mushrooms in olive oil and garlic; eggplant fries (at The Iberian Pig with this wine); assorted semi-hard cheeses with some age, such as Manchego. When enjoying shellfish, serve with grilled or garlic-sauteed head-on shrimp in the shell. Distributors: Prestige Wine Wholesale $19.00 2008 Jankris Winery Divinity Review Date - 4/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: I confess to a fondness for blended wines, because I think the enhanced complexity always appeals to my taste for variety and surprise. This example, from a family-owned winery in Paso Robles, is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Sauvignon Blanc. Neither overwhelms the other, although the flavor of Sauvignon Blanc (gooseberry/herb) comes through on the palate and shapes the finish. Tropical fruit characters are contributed by the Chardonnay. There’s no oak on this wine, as all fermentation and aging has been done in stainless steel, then bottle. Brisk acidity keeps the palate ready for the next sip and fights palate fatigue; it also allows the wine to handle creamy, rich dishes. Serve chilled, but not too cold, about 55F/13C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Vegetable shepherd’s pie; creamy pasta salads with garlic and herbs; butternut squash-stuffed ravioli with butter/herb sauce; gnocchi with butter/cream sauce and fresh herbs; baked Vidalia onions stuffed with pureed sweet potatoes; onion pie; quiche; cornbread salad; creamy mild cheeses (fresh goat), fried green tomatoes with ranch dressing, vegetable cous cous and vegetable tagines (hold the harissa!); pasta salads with minced vegetables and oil/vinegar dressing (soft vinegars such as rice vinegar); butternut squash slaw; free-form lasagna with butternut squash filling. Creamy crab casserole might be a good pairing some day when splurging is on the calendar. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $18.00 2009 St. Supery Vineyards Dollarhide Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 4/1/2011 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Among the most food friendly wine grapes, Sauvignon Blanc expresses terroir like nobody’s business. You can immediately distinguish a South African Sauvignon Blanc from a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, for instance. This Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc very expressive of its origins. Its pale yellow color and its tantalizing aromas are just the beginning. On the nose, aromas of intense grapefruit identify the grape type straight away, as other citrus characters add to the complexity. The suggestion of oak is subtle, not overwhelming, but definitely present. Grapefruit characters continue on the palate, with good minerality and bracing acidity lending structure. While most was fermented in stainless steel, 14% was fermented in French oak, which substantially broadens the mid palate and rounds the edges. The long finish is crisp and clean, positively mouthwatering, ending with just a hint of tropical fruit (banana). Complex, smartly done and delicious. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Carpaccio of golden beet with frisee and creamy garlic dressing; beet and Asian pear apple salad with goat cheese and arugula; Vietnamese green papaya salad; tabbouleh; dishes with white beans (cannelini or white navy) either warm or cold; potatoes roasted with cippolini and fennel; Vidalia onions stuffed with greens or sweet potato and baked; spinach-stuffed tortellini with cream sauce; pasta salad with olives, sun-dried tomatoes and Italian parsley; all stir-fried veggies; vegetable sushi rolls; grilled zucchini and crookneck squash, olive oil and garlic. For splurges: stone crab claws with mustard sauce; cornmeal-fried oysters; soft-shell crab; lump crab cakes. Distributors: National Distributing $35.00 2010 Fincas Patagonicas Tapiz Rosado Review Date - 4/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: The versatility of rosé is not something I’m willing to part with over the cool months. Why wait until the Southern Hemisphere rose’s are gathering dust on the shelf to have one? Silly. I love rose’ of Malbec, and that’s what this is, from Valle de Uco, southwest of Mendoza, Argentina. The vines fthat produce this wine sit at 1350 meters above sea level, or about 4000 feet, and are farmed sustainably. Alcohol is high for a rose’, 14%, so the wine does not do well with a lot of spice/heat. The lovely deep rose color is singularly appealing, and heralds the aromas and flavors of red fruits: red raspberries and strawberries particularly. A bit of aromatic spice joins the profile as the wine opens in the glass. Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60F/13/15C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Southwestern bean stew with black beans and corn; stewed okra, caponata; tomatoes and peppers; baked beans (with or without meat); red beans and rice (which can be done meatless--see The Rendezvous in Memphis); orzo or melon-seed pasta with sun-dried tomatoes; vegetable pizza; vegetable tahine; escalivada (eggplant, tomato, garlic baked and served at room temperature); barbecued tofu (Burnt Fork in Decatur). Jess Jackson of Kendall-Jackson originally developed this amazing facility, but shortly sold it to other interests for much less than its value. Distributors: Ultimate Distributors $15.00 2009 Domaine Font Sarade Ventoux Review Date - 4/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Whether seasoned with meat or not, robust vegetable dishes, especially those that are legume based, require a robust wine, one that has structure, fruit, good tannins (but not aggressive or green) and good body. That’s what one finds in this Ventoux (Rhone) rouge, composed of Grenache and Syrah in equal parts. Full bodied, with a deep, dark ruby-edged inky color, the wine provides aromas of red and black fruits with touches of spice. Red and black fruits, from raspberry to plum, engage the palate. Alcohol is 14%, and the heat shows a little, so robust dishes with some fat are needed to temper the heat. The winery was established in the 1930s, and lies near Orange in the southern Rhone. To serve, cool to 66-68F/17-18C, which also tempers the heat, and use large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Shells stuffed with ricotta cheese, herbs and minced vegetables in tomato sauce; legume-based stews, such as fabada (which has sausage and ham in it); baked beans; and cassoulet (also contains meat); cumin-seasoned black bean and corn stew; eggplant dishes with tomato and garlic. Distributors: Unique World Wines $15.00 2010 Fairvalley Chenin Blanc Review Date - 4/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: The Fairvalley Farm Workers Association in Paarl, South Africa, dates to 1997. After fits and starts, with some input from legendary wine pioneer Fariview’s Charles Back beginning in 2007, today the association consists of 42 families who reside on Fairview Farm and are in the fulltime employ of the Fairview Trust. Three sites in the Western Cape are the sources for these grapes: One is in Darling, a bush vine vineyard planted in 2001; another in Paarl that’s 32 years old; and a third in Piekenierskloof. With a lovely greenish yellow color, the wine exhibits aromas of white melon with hints of tropical fruit and grapefruit zest; The flavor profile exhibits similar characters, as grapefruit and banana come to the forefront. The mouthfeel is round and silky, thanks partly to a smidge (.3) of residual sugar. Not enough to taste sweetness, but enough to buffer the acidity. The long, clean finish is rewarding. Serve moderately cool, about 55-60F/13-15C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Butternut squash or pumpkin ravioli with butter, olive oil, white pepper and fresh herbs; butternut squash and apple slaw (Whole Foods); especially good; baked Vidalia onion stuffed with pureed sweet potato or butternut squash; vegetable pot pie with a creamy gravy; vegetable samosas; Parmesan potato cakes (Whole Foods) also especially yummy; Indian mango potato salad; cornbread salad (crumbled toasted cornbread with assorted fresh vegetables, mayo-sour cream dressing, fresh herbs--can add some crumbled bacon). Another time try it with shrimp and grits and a cream sauce. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $12.00 2009 Demarie Roero Arneis Review Date - 4/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Arneis is a white Italian grape type that originated in the Italian Piedmonte. Historically, Arneis had been used to soften Nebbiolo, but as producers favored 100% Nebbiolo wines, the grape slowly receded in plantings. Revived in the early 1980s after nearly disappearing, the grape reached 1500 acres in 2006 in the Piedmont. As Arneis can be difficult to cultivate, its name means “little rascal,” but winemakers found better sites for planting it, so better grapes were the result. Some are vinified in oak, but I prefer those done in stainless steel. This example shows a lovely, clean, floral aroma, and a slightly greenish-toned straw color--very true to type. Flavors express white and yellow stone fruit, adding hints of almond (very Italian) near the close. The finish is dry and crisp. Don’t overchill this wine, or you’ll lose the flavors until it warms up in the glass. A lovely aperitif wine, it also works well with light dishes. Gentle alcohol: 12.5%. Serve slightly chilled, about 55F/13C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: This is one of several white Italian wines that will go with asparagus (others are Verdicchio and Vernaccia); cream cheese with minced herbs and raw vegetables; cream cheese-filled deep-fried zucchini blossoms; grilled zucchini with grated Parmigiano; aroncini (deep-fried rice balls stuffed with mozzarella); pasta with peas, cream and a bit of bacon, minced fresh herbs. Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $19.00 2009 Val de Salis Malbec Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Today, Malbec is most associated with Argentina, although the clone planted there is different from the one still found in France, where total land planted to the grape declines each year. In 2000, it amounted to 15,000 acres. Still, one finds the occasional 100% Malbec here and there, and this one comes from land in the Pay d”Oc in southern France from a family-owned outfit that’s been making wine for 100 years. “It’s nothing like an Argentinan Malbec,” said one taster. Nope, sure isn’t. It lacks, for instance, that aroma of violets and lilacs that one often finds in Argentinian Malbec. But this medium-bodied dry red wine does show a deep, inky dark purple red color that characterizes them all. The aroma presents a fresh black plum/black cherry character, and those fruit flavors continue on the palate which picks up a slight tobacco note in the finish. No oak. Serve at 60F/15C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Very fine value. Suggested Food Pairings: This wine likes texture, so terrines rather than pates; coarse-textured sausages; meatloaf; meat pies; shepherd’s pie; stews, both meat and root vegetable stews; well-aged, relatively firm, mild but rich cheeses, medium dark chocolate. Distributors: AllGood Wine & Spirits $13.00 2008 Novus Ordo Malbec Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: It’s in Argentina where Malbec’s fame has broadened to craft for that nation an iconic red wine. First introduced in the 19th century by provincial governor and later president Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, Malbec covers some 50,000 acres of vines as of 2003, with Mendoza leading in production. Clusters are tighter with smaller berries than found in French Malbec. Less tannic with juicy fruit and sometimes aromas of violets, Argentine Malbec retains the inky deep dark color one also finds in French Malbec. This example, from Mendoza, comes from 20-year-old vines grown at high altitudes. After fermentation in stainless steel, the wine was aged in second use American oak for six months. Fresh dark fruit characters shape the aromas and flavors, rich with blackberry and plum. Soft, juicy tannins lend support, and the finish is clean, with sweet fresh fruit picking up hints of brown spices toward the close. Cool serving temperatures (60-65F/15-18C) enhance the sensation of fruit and diminish any heat emanating from the substantial alcohol (nearly 14%). Be sure to decant several hours before serving . Cellaring potential: 7 years from vintage if well kept. Suggested Food Pairings: Assorted empanadas; terrines; grilled sweetbreads; roast turkey (dark meat best) with roasted assorted vegetables and sweet potatoes; grilled beef with chimichurri sauce; grilled duck, mildly spicy Italian sausage or lamb; roasted goat; barbecue; braised or smoked short ribs of beef; creamy mild cheeses or blue cheeses. I thought this would do well with dark chocolate, but it flattens out the wine. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $19.00 2006 Monastir S XII Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Spanish winemaking today often looks both forward and back, with some wines firmly planted in Old World styles while others, using new and old varieties, seem to look toward the New World. Such is the case with this wine, from Navarra in north central Spain. Merlot (60%), Tempranillo (30%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) shape the blend, and the barrels are both French and American oak in which the wine spends 14 months. With its deep, inky dark, purple red color, the wine is highly extracted, yet not over-the-top. Aromas suggest fragrant, intense red raspberry, while on the palate red and black fruits mingle and pick up notes of brown spices. Alcohol is high (14.5%), another aspect that points to New World style, yet the grapes carry it so the wine doesn‘t finish “hot.” Unfiltered and unfined, the wine does best after being decanted for about 30 minutes before being served at 60-65F/15-17C, and personally I preferred it on the cooler end of that scale. Suggested Food Pairings: Intensely flavored foods: Barbecued ribs; grilled lamb, hangar steak, or duck breast; legume-based dishes; blue cheese; high-cacao dark chocolate. Distributors: AllGood Wine & Spirits $22.00 2009 Martinborough Vineyards Russian Jack Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Sauvignon Blanc planted in New Zealand has often been associated with heavy grapefruit and tomato vine characters, but winemakers are tilting away from the more aggressive expressions of this profile. Located in Martinborough, on the southeast corner of the North Island, Martinborough Vineyards crafts a Sauvignon Blanc that expresses the passion fruit and gooseberry aromas and flavors also associated with “Down Under” Sauvignon Blanc. Full-bodied with a lovely greenish yellow color, the wine exhibits lively acidity that supports the fruit and enhances the finish. Low ph (3.20) and lively acidity (.7%) sustain the wine’s food friendliness and suggest its ability to be cellared for a brief period after harvest. For anyone who likes to have a glass, put the bottle away and sip on it for a few days, this one meets the criteria. Russian Jack, by the way, may have been Ukrainian, but in any event is thought to have been one of the “swaggers” who worked to clear the land and ready it for planting. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Tabbouleh; chilled vegetable salads (Russian salad--cooked chilled vegetables bound with a mayonnaise); grilled vegetables, including grilled okra (yes, grilled with olive oil and sea salt); mild fish baked with fresh herbs and olive oil; crab cakes with lemon aïoli; King crab legs with drawn lemon butter; Asian fare (green papaya salad with chicken or shrimp); fresh caught head-on steamed or sea salt boiled (just to the pink stage) Georgia white shrimp; creamy goat cheese (Leonora from Spain). Distributors: Prime Wine & Spirits $15.00 2008 J Vineyards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Russian River Valley in California’s Sonoma County holds allure as one of this country’s premiere Pinot Noir production zones. Characterized by bright, lively fruit, Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley is dear to the hearts of many a Pinot Noir enthusiast. Showing a lovely youthful purple red color that’barely translucent, this example presents distinctive and definite aromas of rose petal, accompanied by expressive red fruit flavors, including strawberry (the wild sort) and cherry. Supple tannins embrace layers of flavors, ranging from blackberries to cherry. Brown baking spices add another note throughout, becoming increasingly evident as the wine opens in the glass. The silky texture and juicy character make the wine singularly attractive. Classically American in style, this Pinot Noir exhibits little of the earthiness to be expected in an Old World example, and prefers to emphasize fruit over all else. Serve moderately cool, about 65F/17C, in medium-sized round-bowl glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Smooth liver pate (rather than coarse-textured terrines); slow-cooked rabbit; roast chicken; grilled or roast duck; roast pork tenderloin stuffed with chipped dried dark fruits and bread crumbs; selected Chinese dim suim, especially barbecued pork buns; anything with duck, roast turkey, medium dark chocolate (about 60% cacao). One of the advantages of American Pinot Noir is its ability to pair with medium dark chocolate. Distributors: National Distributing Co. $35.00 2008 Boschendal 1685 Series Shiraz Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Outside of its home in the Rhone Valley of France, Shiraz can express a variety of characters depending on the climate in which it’s planted. For instance, a hot climate Shiraz might be intense, full bodied, very extracted, and alcoholic, while a cool climate Shiraz might show aromas of white pepper and/or wet animal fur, be lower in alcohol and lighter in body. Some Old World Shiraz requires aging before it can be enjoyed while New World versions often are ready to drink when released, although they can deliver enhanced flavors if properly cellared for a few years after vintage. This example is a full-bodied dry red wine (just a smidge of residual sugar) exhibiting a deep, inky black purple red color. On the aromas, black fruits from plums to cherries and whiffs of white pepper lead to juicy black fruit flavors enhanced by supple tannin and good acidity. By leaving 20% of the wine in stainless steel to be blended with the 80% that did see some oak aging, the winemaker achieved a very fine balance of fruit and oak. The 1685 derives from the date of the winery’s founding in Stellenbosch, South Africa, in what has to be one of the most gorgeous settings anywhere on earth. Serve the wine at cool (65F/17C) in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Cured meats (especially finocchiona); coarse-textured terrines; grilled ham steak; grilled lamb chop with baked sweet potatoes; lamb sausage and lentils; braised beef dishes (try oxtails or short ribs cooked in Shiraz); roast duck or other feathered game; furred game, such as bison short ribs; firm, aged, rich cheeses; dark chocolate. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $18.00 2007 Domaine Rene Leclerc Bourgogne Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: By contrast, Old World Pinot Noir as produced in Burgundy, that thin slip of land that runs north to south in eastern France, ranges from expressing simply elegant and restrained fruit to wines that kick up the aromas of barnyard and forest floor. In this case, there’s very little of the latter. Instead, the aromas present a delicate herbal character in a wine that shows a lovely purple red translucent color. Flavors tap in to dark cherry with notes of blackberry and red currant. The clean finish, with supple tannins, hallmarks a wine that should have broad appeal and that pairs well with a wide variety of foods. There’s a definite elegance to this wine, an appealing simplicity and a clean fruit character that is both apparent and restrained. Serve cool, at about 65F/17C in medium-sized round-bowl glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Smooth-textured liver pate (not coarse-textured terrines); roast chicken, turkey or Cornish game hen; pork tenderloin; coq au vin made with this wine; smoked pork St. Louis-style ribs with a mild rub (very good); slow-cooked rabbit; Chinese pork and duck dishes; dim sum; mild semi-firm cheeses. Distributors: Con Vinum $28.00 2008 Ferraton Pere et Fils Crozes-Hermitage La Matiniere Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Among red wine grapes, perhaps Syrah expresses terroir more distinctively than any other. Cold climate vs. warm climate Syrah and Old World vs. New World. Old World Syrah, such as this example. Showing a lovely nearly opaque cherry red color, the wine exhibits a decided grace and elegance that immediately speaks to Old World wine styles. A floral quality shows in the aromas, along with juicy red fruits (red currants) and some brown spice. On the palate, juicy red fruit flavors are framed by supple, soft tannins. Made entirely from Syrah, the wine is aged in oak barrels and vats for 12 months, but you won’t find the first hint of obvious oak flavors. That, too, is a hallmark of Old World winemaking. A bit tight and closed when first opened, the wine benefits from about an hour’s decanting. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65F/17C, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Potential for cellaring over the next 5-6 years. Suggested Food Pairings: Creamy liver pate; roasted fish, such as sea bass or halibut; grilled swordfish; roast chicken; cassoulet (from Babette’s Café); other legume-based dishes; creamy goat-milk cheeses. Distributors: Con Vinum $22.00 2009 Douglas Green Steen Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: “Steen” is a traditional South African term for Chenin Blanc, a grape type that took root early in South Africa’s viticultural history as the result of the arrival in the early 17th century of Huguenots, or French Protestants, escaping religious persecution in France. . Among the grapes that went with the French to South Africa was Chenin Blanc, still today South Africa’s most widely planted grape. When called “Steen” the wine made from this grape most often is sweet, but this example, while it shows good fruit sweetness, finishes crisp and dry. The grapes for this wine came from Robertson and Wellington, both north and east of Cape Town. Showing a medium gold color, the wine exhibits aromas of melon and pear, some banana. On the palate, these same characters shape the flavor profile, buttressed by a soft and creamy texture. A small bit of Colombard, widely grown in South Africa, is blended in. Residual sugar is only about .4, a level at which most tasters won’t sense sweetness, but instead a rich, round mouthfeel. Serve this wine at cool, but not cold, temperatures, about 55-60F/13-15C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Very fine value. Suggested Food Pairings: Likes good spice, such as mild curries with chicken, tofu or seafood; Indian and Malaysian-inspired dishes, such as samosas and Malaysian curried fish (not too hot), fish ‘n’ chips; baked panko-dusted flounder; sushi; sosaties (grilled skewered foods); dim sum; shumai; rich, creamy cheeses such as St. Andre’.and similar triple cream cheeses. Distributors: National Distributing Company $10.00 2009 Clifford Bay Pinot Noir Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Located in the Awatere Valley of Marlboerough, on the northeast tip of New Zealand’s South Island, Clifford Bay was founded in is the country’s most prominent wine-growing region. Typically its Pinot Noirs, no matter where they’re from within the country, tend to be more savory than sweet, although when they‘re from Marlborough, as is this example, they‘ll tend to be more fruit-driven. Nonetheless, the aromas will likely capture a hint of mushroom cellar and composting vegetative matter that distinguishes Pinot Noir. Along with that in this example, with its classic Pinot Noir garnet color, there’s a hint of floral character--rather like violets--and the fruits are all about black cherries with suggestions of brown baking spices (from French oak). Supple tannins frame the flavors, which should develop further over the next two or three years. A terrific value, too. Serve at cool temperatures, about 65F/17C, in round-bowl Burgundy glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Creamy liver pate; Whole foods’ North African chicken (with cumin and other exotic spices); grilled duck; root vegetable gratin (from Sprig in Decatur); sausage-stuffed mushroom caps; smoked pork ribs with a spicy rub (Burnt Fork in Decatur--perfect); roast turkey; braised pork shank; roast or fried chicken; lamb stroganoff on penne pasta (Sprig); firm, aged, mild but nutty cheeses. Distributors: Georgia Crown $17.00 2008 Clos La Coutale Cahors Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: In Europe Malbec is most associated with southwestern France, and there still are plantings of it in Bordeaux, mostly in the Right Bank appellations (Blaye, Cotes de Bourg and Entre Deux Mers). Malbec remains, however, the foundation of the wines of Cahors, just east of Bordeaux, where it’s known as Cot or Auxerrois, and usually is blended with other varieties, often Tannat. Still another name for it is Pressac. The Cahors AOC requires a minimum 70% Malbec, in fact. This example is 80% Malbec, with the balance devoted to Merlot. In true Cahor fashion, the wine exhibits a deep, opaque, purple red color. Aromas capture a floral character, along with fresh dark fruits. Sweet, luscious, dark fruit flavors shape the palate, along with fine, sweet tannins. This wine is all about balance, so nothing is out of kilter. No obvious oak; no tough tannins; deep fruit but not a fruit bombe. Restraint rules. Serve at cool room temperature, about 68F?17C, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Terrines (coarse textured) rather than smooth pates; black olives; salamis; cassoulet and other legume-based dishes; stews; poulet chasseur (chicken hunter style); coq au vin made with Cahors; grilled lamb, duck or steak; meat pies; stews; robust cheeses; medium dark chocolate (about 60% cacao). Historic tidbit: Cahors was said to be the favorite wine late Robert Shaw (music director emeritus of the ASO), who had a house in Cahors and directed a music festival there. Don’t blame him; it’s pretty territory. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wines/NDC $19.00 2009 Chateau Moncontour Vouvray Sec Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: In Vouvray, which lies in the Loire Valley, Chenin Blanc is the white wine grape. This very versatile grape type works well from dry to sweet, and still to sparkling. Moreover, this is one white wine that can age. This example shows a lovely greenish yellow color. Luxuriously aromatic, the wine exhibits lifted aromas of yellow fruits--pear and exotic melon--with some herbal seed notes. On the palate, lively minerality and good acidity slice through the fruit, giving it extra interest and character. Round with a silky texture, the wine rewards with a long, mouthwatering finish that owes a good bit to the aforementioned acidity. This is one tasty piece of work. Alcohol is moderate, 12.5%. Serve at about 55-60F; 13-15C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked fish or shellfish (gentle smoke, not too strong), such as smoked whitefish spread (really tasty), chicken salad; shrimp salad with Thai seasonings (lemongrass, coconut); catfish or other mild fillet or sea scallops crusted in Japanese bread crumbs with curry powder and coconut and sauteed; shrimp and grits with a creamy garlic sauce; fried chicken with a little mild curry in the coating flour; pork tenderloin stuffed with dried yellow fruits and bread crumbs or croutons; mild creamy cheeses. Distributors: Grapefields $18.00 2009 Serge Dagueneau et Filles Les Pentes Pouilly-Fume Review Date - 3/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Yes, that’s right. And daughters. Florence and Valerie, specifically. Father and daughters advocate harvesting late in the season, a stance that produces, along with limited yields, a rich, highly textural wine that yields very ripe melon-slightly herbal characters with a decided vein of chalky minerality running through. But then the grapes are planted on marno-calcaire soil, so that is not surprising. The wine is, of course, 100% Sauvignon Blanc (only Tour in the Loire Valley may list grape types on labels). On the palate, this dry white wine presents flavors of white melon, a touch of caraway seed, and chalky minerality, with good acidity for structure and backbone. The long finish ends crisp, clean and dry. Moderate alcohol (12.7%) enables this wine to serve nicely as an aperitif. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Sauvignon Blanc is the white wine grape of several Loire Valley appellations, but perhaps nowhere is it more elegantly achieved than in Pouilly-Fumé. Suggested Food Pairings: Baked crabmeat-stuffed flounder; crab cakes with lemon aîoli; grilled chicken apple salad; fried chicken; King crab legs with drawn lemon butter; shrimp and grits with a garlic cream sauce; creamy goat cheese, such as a goat Camembert or Leonora from Spain (at Alon’s). Distributors: Unique World Wines $23.00 2007 Tamburlaine Full House Review Date - 2/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: On the label, a Picasso-esque painting by Swiss-born Dorothee Heibel is entitled “Wine Lovers.” She lives with her family and works in Australia’s Hunter Valley, in the northeast part of the country, north of Sydney. What could be more perfect for the month of romance? “Full House,” a poker term, here references the fact that all the Bordeaux red varietals are included in this blend: Cabernet Franc (25%); Malbec (25%); Cabernet Sauvignon (20%); Petit Verdot (20%); and Merlot 10%. Tamburlaine wines are organically grown. Despite substantial alcohol (14.8%), the wine does not read “hot.” Intense, deep, inky dark purple red makes a good visual introduction. Juicy black fruit (blackberry and black plum) shape the aromas and take hold of the palate, framed by fairly substantial, firm (but not aggressive) tannins). A blueberry note adds interest. Delectable work. Serve cool, about 60F/15C, in large tulip-shaped Bordeaux glasses. Good chance for development if well cellared over the near term, about five years. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled pork steak, lamb steak, duck breast, sausages; cured meats; roasted pork loin or fresh ham; roast chicken or duck; shepherd’s pie; meat pies of all sorts; stews; braised meats. Distributors: Continental Beverage $17.00 2008 Jardin Mellifera Noble Late Harvest Review Date - 2/1/2011 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Could there be a more romantic landscape than the one South Africa offers? I can’t imagine what it would be. Every turn of the road, every sunset, every view of the coast compels awe. Sip this delectable dessert wine and imagine yourself there--perhaps honeymooning at Bushman’s Kloof. South Africa produces some delicious Rieslings, but we don’t see many of them here. The Jardin label here is from Gary and Kathy Jordan, whose name graces their label in South Africa, but obviously can’t use that here. So they use Jardin instead. From Stellenbosch, this one is not at all syrupy, but instead shows a medium-bodied delicacy. A lovely reddish gold color and aromas of dried yellow stone fruits with a floral note offer immediate appeal. On the palate, clean, fruit-rich characters focus on fresh apricot with citrus (lime) notes. Crisp acidity and moderate alcohol (11%) provide a clean, long, mouthwatering finish. Serve cool, about 50F/10C, in small tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Foie gras or foie gras terrine; baked peach stuffed with crushed macaroons, crème anglaise; simple cookie (langues de chat, madeleines); custard; pound cake; bread pudding (not too sweet); creamy, mild cheeses. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $27.00 2009 Domaines Baron Rothschild (Lafite)/Nicolas Catena Bodegas Caro Amancaya Review Date - 2/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: These Rothschild folks are everywhere, including Argentina. The Andes Mountains make a most incredibly majestic sight as they lie placidly between Chile and Argentina. Fly into Santiago and get a car for the drive across the mountains (about four hours) or fly the short hop over the mountains and savor one of flying’s most magnificent views. Allow extra time if driving for extensive immigration clearances. On the Argentina side of the border, base out of Mendoza, a regional capital. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec is traditional. The wine’s deeply colored inky dark purple red introduces visually the intense wine the glass offers. Aromas of dark and red fruits introduce sweet dark fruits on the palate--plums, cassis, berries. The tannins are a bit firm, but they shouldn’t turn office the novice consumer.. Elegant, with a very fine texture. Should tolerate cellaring for another five or so years. Serve in large tulip-shaped glasses at about 60F/15C. Suggested Food Pairings: Lovely with coarse-textured terrines made with game or red meats; grilled steak and other red meats; cured meats (excellent with Pine Street Market’s Avondale), empanadas filled with meat; stews; braised red meats; medium dark chocolate. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $20.00 2005 Jankris Winery Crossfire Review Date - 2/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: I love Paso Robles, a region that takes its winemaking seriously but is thronged with real people who work at it every day and kick the cow poo off their boots when they come home at night. Paso Robles is good second (or first) honeymoon country for wine lovers, with excellent restaurants (love Bistro Laurent) and myriad wineries to visit. Crossfire is a full-bodied dry red wine with a deep, opaque, ruby red color. The aromas pick up a hint of caramel, showing possible use of American oak, but lovely with the panoply of fruits it also exhibits. On the palate, a note of iodine lends interest to red and dark fruit characters. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot (25%) and Syrah (25), Crossfire exhibits depth, with good mid-palate, and length, lingering nicely through to the close. Tannins are not aggressive. A solo sipper, Crossfire also plays nice with food. Serve at cool room temperatures, about 65F/17C, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured terrines rather than smooth pates; cured meats (wonderful with Pine Street Market’s Avondale); barbecued ribs; braised meats (lamb shank, beef short ribs, buffalo short ribs), legume-based dishes; roasted vegetables; game (furred or feathered); pastas with garlic and tomato-based or cream sauces; medium-dark chocolate (about 55-60% cacao); firm, mild cheeses (Stilton). Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $18.00 2009 Sawtooth Winery Riesling Review Date - 2/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Idaho got its first AVA in 2007, the Snake River Valley AVA, which follows the river in southwest Idaho and into adjacent Oregon. Today some 1800 acres, 46 vineyards, and 16 wineries lay claim to the prize, among them Sawtooth Winery. Made from grapes harvested from Sawtooth and Skyline vineyards, the wine shows a medium greenish yellow color, and is 95% Riesling and 5% Muscat Blanc, which lifts the aromas and contributes to its zesty citrus character. The palate is light and clean, with Asian pear apple, white melon and crisp apple characters. Good acidity (over 7%) keeps the fruit and residual sugar (2%) in balance, lends interest and contributes substantially to the long finish. .This is an excellent aperitif wine, but also goes well a wide variety of foods. Serve moderately cool, about 55F/13C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Superior value. Suggested Food Pairings: Light curried chicken salad; panko with curry and Thai flavors to coat shrimp or scallops before frying them; chicken breast, poached thick white fish fillets or pork steaks with mustard cream sauce; crab cakes; king crab legs with drawn lemon butter; Asian (especially Chinese) seafood or chicken dishes with mild spice; moo shu vegetables, dim sum, creamy, mild cheeses. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $12.00 Schramsberg Vineyards Mirabelle NV Review Date - 2/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: German-born Jacob Schram founded the winery in the 19th century, and after a series of sales it was purchased by Jamie and Jack Davies in 1965. One of America’s premier sparkling wine houses, Schramsberg has created in Mirabelle brut and brut rose’ a value-priced sparkling wine that retains the quality levels expected from this winery. The lovely rosy pink color of this sparkling wine fills the visual requirement perfectly. Blending Chardonnay (58%) and Pinot Noir (42%) from a variety of sites in cool zones [Napa Valley (40%), Mendocino (24%), Sonoma (27%) and Marin (1%)], the wine is constructed just like a traditional French nonvintage, with 15% of the blend coming from aged wine. Aromas show red fruits and a pleasing toasted nuttiness, while on the palate intense strawberry flavors predominate. Depth of flavor, mid-palate, and length all work to provide a top-flight experience. Serve moderately cool, about 55F/13C in either tulip-shaped flutes or white wine glasses. Save some for breakfast. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled salmon; teriyaki; lobster bisque; shumai with ponzu dipping sauce; grilled scallop, shrimp or mild fish with Creole remoulade (moderate heat ok); barbecued ribs, mild tomato-based sauce; salmon caviar on unsalted potato chip with creme fraiche, Mexican crema agria or Russian sour cream; mild curries; shrimp salad; roast chicken or Cornish hen; grilled whole red snapper. Distributors: National Distributing $25.00 Peter Lehmann Classic Muscat NV Review Date - 2/1/2011 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Australia’s (and New Zealand’s) winemaking begins with fortified wines such as this Classic (literally) Muscat, a nonvintage wine that is made from a red Muscat de Frontignac (Muscat a Petits Grains rouge) grape. Some of the vineyards are more than 100 years old. Full-bodied with a reddish brown hue, the wine exhibits aromas of toasted nuts, toffee and raisined fruit. On the palate, dried fruit, toffee and toasted nuts are accompanied by fine textural silkiness. The wine is fortified while still on the skins, then aged in old oak barrels. Wines for this fine “drop,” as the Aussies would say, are drawn from several well-matured vintages, thus the wine is non-vintage. With slightly more than 17% alcohol, the wine is best enjoyed served slightly cool (55F/13C) in small or medium tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Although I prefer dark chocolate, and the winery recommends dark chocolate, with these Aussie Muscats I prefer milk chocolate as I think more of the taste of the wine comes through--your call; toasted almonds; walnuts; pound cake; fruit cake; bread pudding; spiced pecans; American Grafutti “Almond Angels” (coconut-wrapped almonds--gluten- dairy- and chocolate-free--at Whole Foods), pralines. Distributors: Empire Distributors $25.00 2009 Le Rocche Malatestiane Baciami Albana di Romagna D. O. C. G. Review Date - 2/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: What could be more perfect for Valentine’s than a wine that demands “Kiss me,” unless it’s the companion red wine to this one (also slightly sweet) that says “Adesso,” meaning “Now.” Pronounce this all-BAH-nah dee roh-MAH-nyah. A sweet white wine based on the Albana grape, this wine is produced in Emilia Romagna on Italy’s eastern Adriatic coast. The producer of this example is a cooperative in Rimini that governs some 2000 acres of vines. With good acidity and a low ph, the wine seems very balanced against some substantial residual sugar. So it’s not sticky sweet. The medium deep golden color appeals to the eye, while the aromas suggest the scent of honey and fresh white and yellow stone fruit. On the palate, flavors of ripe white peach, white apricot and pear mingle with the taste (not sweetness) of honey. The finish is long, sweet and pleasing, but not cloying. Moderate alcohol (9%) means the evening may not end early. Albana is a grape that comes in a variety of styles, from dry to sweet and even sparkling. The award of D. O. C. G. status in 1986 was not without controversy, but because of the grape’s neutrality, the sweeter styles seem to have more character. Enjoy at cool temperatures, about 55F/13C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. And pretend you’re that Roman Empress centuries ago who declared that Albana di Romagna should only be drunk in golden cups. Drink young, as freshness is important. Suggested Food Pairings: Very nice with Asian fish, pork or chicken dishes that have some ginger and restrained spice; prosciutto and ripe pear; grilled chicken with fruit; mild curries; creamy mild cheeses. Distributors: Artisan Vines $13.00 2008 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Blason d’Aussieres Corbieres Review Date - 2/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Established in 1985, Corbieres is a large AOC in Languedoc-Roussillon, between Narbonne to the north and Perpignan to the south. This part of France is great honeymoon country, with good values in dining and lodging. And lovely, good value wines, such as this one, with a deep, dark ruby red color. After you’ve decanted the wine and allowed it to open for about an hour, you’ll be amazed at its evolution if you tasted it fresh out of the bottle (and you should). At first it’s shy and unyielding, but an hour later it exhibits aromas of leather and crushed wild herbs, while the palate bursts with brown spices and dark fruits. Soft tannins wrap themselves well around this elegant, medium-bodied wine. Grape types are Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Carignan, the region’s classics for red wine. This second label for Chateau d’Aussieres devotes 20% to oak-barrel aging for 10-12 months. Serve around 65-66F/16-18C in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Cured meats; game terrines or pates; rabbit or chicken chasseur; dark meat turkey with wild mushrooms; lamb tagine with cous cous; grilled duck breast rubbed with five-spice powder or duck confit; feathered and furred game; black olive tepanade; grilled steak or lamb; roasted rack of lamb with sweet potatoes; grilled rare tuna (might even do wild salmon); legume-based dishes; mild firm cheeses; dark chocolate. For some complex French recipes with this wine, see the web site: http://www.lafite.com/eng/Recipes/ Distributors: Georgia Crown $25.00 2009 Adega Vale d'Algares Guarda Rios Rose Review Date - 2/1/2011 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Blending Touriga Nacional (50%), one of the traditional Porto grapes; Syrah (30%); and Aragonez (20%), a local name for Tempranillo, the wine is from the Ribatejo (pronounced ree-bah-TEY-zhu) region in central Portugal. The word means “on the shores of the Tagus,” a river that crosses the region. Few countries are as romantic as Portugal, with its charming small towns and its impressive capital, Lisboa. Known for rose‘, Portugal first began producing the wine in the north, but its popularity has pushed vintners throughout the country to make rose’. This example showing a deep, reddish pink rose hue conveys the intensity of passion in its color. Aromas of strawberry and red raspberry herald a rich, layered, intense palate of multiple red fruits and brown spices. Balanced with good acidity, the wine exhibits some initial fruit sweetness, but finishes crisp and dry. Alc. 13.5%. The “Guarda Rios” is a bird, the kingfisher, whose image is screened onto the label. Serve this wine cool, about 55F/13C, in tall tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Cured meats (finocchiona, salumi), chicken baked in tomato sauce; red beans and rice and similar legume-based dishes; grilled ham steak, chicken or salmon; Portuguese tomato-seafood stew; barbecue; grilled sausages; Asian fare (moo shu pork); Mexican and Tex-Mex fare (fajitas; carnitas with a mild red sauce). Distributors: Artisan Vines $18.00 2007 Rotta Winery Giubbini Vineyard Zinfandel Port Review Date - 2/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Zinfandel makes a superb port, and this example, with its luscious raspberry, boysenberry, loganberry character, is an ideal companion to dark chocolate with high cacao content. From Paso Robles, CA, the wine was subjected to a double extraction process, enhancing its intensity, power and perfume. Silky in texture, it exhibits aromas that suggest cooked prunes as well as the aforementioned berry fruits, with notes of dark chocolate. Fortified, boosting its alcohol to 19% as is the case with most ports, this sweet dessert wine is full bodied with elegant, fine tannins and a rich, long finish that carries a good fruit impact through the close. Aged in French and American oak, but oak is not an overriding consideration. Mouthwatering and satisfying, it’s a fine conclusion to a meal and a good value. Serve it in small tulip-shaped glasses at 60-63F/15-17C. Easy does it, or you’ll be dozing on the sofa. Suggested Food Pairings: 70% cacao dark chocolate (BRIX); dark chocolate layer cake with sambuca mousse filling and dark chocolate icing (Maggiano‘s); cappuccino chocolate truffles; plain cheesecake (pour some on top); dark chocolate crème brulee; berry-filled dark chocolates. Distributors: AllGood Wine & Spirits $25.00 2009 Lenotti Rosso Passo I.G.T. Review Date - 2/1/2011 Score - 93 Tasting Note: When the whole is better than the sum of its parts, that’s the ticket--for couples and for wine. That’s what this wine represents, being 50% Merlot and 50% Sangiovese. Because these grapes are not sanctioned for being grown in the Veneto, where this wine originates, the wine is labeled Indicazione Geografica Tipica (I.G.T.), and not. D.O.C. This full-bodied dry red wine shows a deep, nearly opaque ruby red color. Aromas tilt toward blueberries and red raspberries, while the palate showcases a basket of berry characters, from raspberries to dark cherries. Tannins are soft and the texture is of pure velvet. Moderate alcohol: 12.5%. Could be cellared for 2-3 years. Vinified in stainless steel; no oak. Served at a cool temperature, about 60-62F/15-17C, in a large tulip-shaped glass, this wine appeals from the beginning, but opens and evolves in the glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Olive oil packed sun-dried tomatoes; pasta or risotto with braised meat; cured and dried meats (really good with Pine Street Market’s Avondale); smoked liverwurst or pate’, rabbit terrine; grilled peppered tuna; roasted breast of veal stufed with sausage and bread cubes; braised lamb shanks with barley; grilled duck breast rubbed with five spice powder, natural jus, or roast duck; duck legs with dark jam glaze; pork tenderloin; firm mild blue cheese; fair with dark chocolate. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $17.00 2009 Mohua Wines Pinot Gris Review Date - 1/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: A second label from Peregrine Wines, the Mohua wines are dedicated to the mohua, or yellow-headed bird, whose continued existence is threatened. The wine is produced chiefly in Central Otago, on the South Island, one of the coolest-climate zones anywhere for wine production. Some proceeds from the sale of these wines help fund efforts to foster the bird’s recovery on the South Island of New Zealand. This Pinot Gris is a classic example of the kind of aromatic wines one finds in New Zealand. Its bright greenish straw color and aromas of pear and white stone fruit lead to flavors that show restrained pink grapefruit characters and occasional notes of tropical fruit (banana). Elegant, fresh, zesty and clean, the wine exhibits no indication of any oak aging, yet brims with intense, sweet, pure fruit. Serve cool, about 55F/13C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: As an aperitif wine, with crab cakes; crab-filled shumai; cold sesame noodles; scallop carpaccio or lightly grilled, chilled scallops; shrimp in garlic olive oil, remoulade sauce; grilled chicken skewers with fruit or grilled chicken salad with fruit; composed salads; grilled, wild-caught mild fish; baked, crab-stuffed flounder; goat cheese. Absolutely awful with mussels. Distributors: Empire Distributors $20.00 2008 Hesketh Wines Scissor Hands Riesling Review Date - 1/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: This family-owned operation produces wines “with generous flavours and aromatics, which also retain a sense of place--wines which reflect the vineyards they are grown in.” Good thinking! This Riesling is from Clare Valley, Australia, but great Riesling areas include nearby Edna Valley--both about an hour north of Adelaide--and Margaret and Frankland Rivers in the southwest corner of the country. One of the sub-regions of Clare Valley that is most noted for Riesling is Polish Hill, named for the Polish immigrants who settled here in the 19th century. This example, from Polish Hill, shows a medium pale yellow color. The classic petrol characters of a properly aging Riesling define the aromas. Fruit focuses on lime zest, while minerality and acidity lend substance to the palate. A long, crisp, well-defined finish is the pay-off. Able to be cellared for several years, perhaps as long as 10 years if kept at 55F/13C, its proper serving temperature as well. Suggested Food Pairings: Goyza stuffed with pork, chicken or shrimp and soy-based dipping sauce; chicken salad; Asian-style noodle dishes, both warm (lo mein) and cold with peanut sauce and sesame seeds; fried chicken; pork chops or pork steaks with sauteed apples and onions; fish poached in beer with mustard sauce; rabbit or chicken in whole grain mustard sauce; herring salad with potatoes; baked oyster casserole; scallops or mild fish in parchment paper with slivered ginger, leeks and garlic; crab cakes; choucrute garnie; dim sum; ripe creamy cheeses (St. Andre). Distributors: Grapefields $25.00 2010 Robert Oatley Vineyards Rose of Sangiovese Review Date - 1/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: At Savannah’s Cha Bella, one of the state’s better restaurants, I tasted the 2009 vintage of this lovely rose’. From Mudgee in New South Wales, northwest of Sydney and a bit west of Hunter Valley, this rose’ is made as a rose’, that is, fermented at cool temperatures and kept in stainless steel to maintain freshness. But the 2009 now yields to the 2010, which soon should be in the market. Its bright reddish pink color is very eye-appealing, and the aromas focus on the red fruit spectrum, especially red raspberries and strawberries--more like wild ones than cultivated. The palate presents a fresh, dry (very puny residual sugar) red fruit profile that is buttressed by terrific acidity, enabling a long, clean, crisp finish that offers a little touch of dried herb at the end--a nice savory note. This work is simply delicious, and there’s nothing “candified” about it. Oatley claims to have planted Australia’s first Sangiovese and Barbera in Mudgee on the family estate. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. The 2009 vintage may still be found on shelves, but 2010 is due soon. Suggested Food Pairings: Wings; all kinds of Asian barbecue, Chinese and Korean; Cajun barbecued shrimp; fried chicken; chicken cooked in tomato sauce; roasted beets; crispy pork belly; egg rolls; pork filled dumplings, such as shumai with Ponzu dipping sauce; blackened salmon; goat cheese rolled in sweet (not hot) pepper flakes. Distributors: National Distributing $14.00 2009 Hope Estate Verdelho Review Date - 1/1/2011 Score - 92 Tasting Note: A descendant of early prisoners, Michael Hope made his money in the pharmacy business, then founded a winery. Located in Hunter Valley in New South Wales, in Australia’s northeast quadrant, Hope produces a wide variety of wines, including this Verdelho, often confused--even by people in the wine business--with Spain’s verdejo. Verdelho is a major component of Madeira, and in the Hunter Valley it was first used to make fortified wines as well. Besides Hunter Valley, the grape is planted in Langhorn Creek (on the Fleurieu Peninsula south of Adelaide) and Swan Valley (Western Australia). This example is classic: A full-bodied dry white wine, it shows a medium-deep yellow gold color. On the nose, an herbal note adds interest and character to the zesty lemony aromas. Flavors maintain the citrus/lemon character, retaining a crisp, clean, vibrant fruit profile, finishing with a hint of lime. Unoaked, the wine shows a natural richness while remaining refreshing. Serve cool, about 50-55F/10-13C, in medium to large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Asian fare and dishes that are Asian influenced with some spice (but watch the heat: Mild creamy curries with poultry, seafood or tofu; poached, chilled chicken breast sliced on greens with a tracing of curry-accented mayonnaise; crab cakes; King crab legs with garlic-accented drawn butter; samosas; Indian potato dishes (hold the heat); chicken breast with whole-grain mustard cream sauce; creamy cheeses, such as St. Andre. Distributors: Georgia Crown $20.00 2009 Mud House Wine Company Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 1/1/2011 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Sauvignon Blanc is New Zealand’s iconic white wine, and most of it is produced in Marlborough, on the northeast tip of the South Island. This one follows that model. While the 2010 is in current release at the winery, 2009 is the vintage presently available in Atlanta. This Sauvignon Blanc shows a lovely medium yellow color with greenish tones. On the nose, classic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc characters identify its origin: gooseberry and citrus (grapefruit). The palate also presents classic New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc characters: passion fruit and grapefruit. No oak influences mar the pure fruit flavors.. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: New Zealand green lip mussels with ginger and lemongrass; Vietnamese fare with seafood or chicken, such as green papaya salad or shrimp/chicken with lemongrass; salads with bell peppers, feta cheese and green olives; goat cheese rolled in minced chives and parsley; grilled garlic shrimp; seafood stews; vegetable dishes, such as zucchini-based vegetable stews with fresh herbs. Distributors: Empire Distributors $17.00 2008 Spy Valley Riesling Review Date - 1/1/2011 Score - 94 Tasting Note: As does Australia, New Zealand produces some absolutely awesome Rieslings. I’ve turned many a Riesling naysayer on his/her ear with this one, which comes from vineyards in Marlborough, on the country‘s South Island (northeastern tip). This wine is a gem. And the bit of age this vintage has acquired shows in the slight petrol character exhibited in the aroma. Riesling fanatics look for this opening note, but new wine enthusiasts may find it a bit off-putting. The medium pale greenish-yellow color also is spot on correct. The flavors hew to lime and lemon citrus characters--classic for New World Riesling--with an inspired tanginess, minerality and acidity. Very low ph (2.98) helps buttress the sense of acidity. Spice notes add further interest. Long, clean, zesty and full of fruit, the finish is something you want never to end. Anyone who has found Riesling to be simplistic, liquified lollipops needs to experience this one to see what Riesling can be. A terrific value too. Serve it cool, about 55F/13C in tall tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Riesling handles an amazing spectrum of foods. Chicken in mustard cream sauce; pork steaks with sauteed apples and onions; grilled apple sausage or pork sausage with braised cabbage; smoked pork chops (The Butcher’s Market in Woodstock has superior ones); fish or shellfish baked in parchment paper with Asian seasonings and julienned ginger; shrimp salad with lemongrass; would bet on it with Vietnamese green papaya salad; fish cooked in beer with a mustard Bechamel sauce; fried chicken; Chinese food with seafood, chicken or pork. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $17.00 2008 Craggy Range Te Kahu Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Review Date - 1/1/2011 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Craggy Range enjoys one of the most exquisite sites in New Zealand. Known for its Sauvignon Blanc, Craggy Range does superior red wines, many of which, like this blend, come from Gimblett Gravels, an 800-hectar site in Hawke’s Bay on the east coast of the North Island. A dry river bed, Gimblett Gravels is a fairly recently developed site that today supplies both red and white wines to a long list of New Zealand’s finest producers. “Te Kahu” means “the cloak“ in Maori (New Zealand’s native language), and references the morning mist that enshrouds the Craggy Range Giant winery in the Tuki Tuki Valley. This example is a Bordeaux-blend style wine, based chiefly on Merlot (64%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), Cabernet Franc (14%), and Malbec (7%) in the blend. Very deep dark nearly opaque purple red, the wine shows aromas and flavors of black fruit with some spice and fine tannins. The long finish winds up with fruit and tannins in nice harmony. Still young and tightly wound, this is a wine for cellaring, perhaps a half dozen or so years from vintage. To serve now, decant about an hour before enjoying at cool temperatures (about 65F/17C) in large-bowl tulip-shaped glasses. This is an excellent value. Suggested Food Pairings: Cured meats; terrines; grilled red meat; braised pork with soy-based dipping sauce; Korean barbecue; Japanese meat dishes; firm, aged cheeses (Robusto; aged Gouda, Manchego); dark chocolate. Distributors: National Distributing Company $20.00 2009 Martinborough Vineyards Russian Jack Pinot Noir Review Date - 1/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Pinot Noir grows in New Zealand in three principal zones: Marlborough; Martinborough (on the SE corner of the North Island), and Central Otago (center south, South Island). Martinborough Pinot Noir tends to be more savory rather than sweet, so much different from Marlborough typically--and that goes double for how different it will be from American Piont Noir. Beginning with its eye-pleasing ruby red color, this Pinot Noir expresses the essence of this region’s way with the grape. Bright red cherry fruit touched by a dried herbal note shape the aromas and the palate. Silky tannins lend structure and provide an elegant, soft mouthfeel. The finish is long and delectable, and the tannins stay with the fruit through the close. Balanced and well made, this is a wine to enjoy with a wide variety of foods. Excellent value. Serve in round-bowl Burgundy glasses at about 65F/17C. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken liver mousse; grilled wild salmon; roasted Cornish game hen; feathered game; venison chops; mushroom tart; baked mushrooms stuffed with bread crumbs; roast chicken; grilled lamb chops; roast or Chinese crispy duck; Asian barbecue. Distributors: Grapefields $18.00 2007 Betts & Scholl O.G. Grenache Review Date - 1/1/2011 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Wines from Barossa Valley, about an hour north of Adelaide in South Eastern Australia, can often be alcoholic, big, very extracted and sometimes rather clumsy. But when they’re right, they’re tasty and complex. Reds dominate this region, especially varieties originating in the Rhone Valley, France, such as Shiraz (Syrah in the Rhone). This Grenache made from really old vines--some hitting the century mark--is the work of Master Sommelier Richard Betts and Dennis Scholl, a collector of contemporary art and avid wine enthusiast. The pair works with growers in various parts of the planet to produce wines as they prefer them. In the case of Grenache, this medium-bodied dry red wine shows a medium deep red color. On the nose, a whiff of multiple red fruits--strawberry, raspberry--introduce a palate that meets those expectations, with red fruit flavors and supple tannins. The alcohol (14.5%) seems well balanced in this wine, but temper it by serving the wine cool, around 60F/15C, and pairing it with rich foods. Use large-bowl tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Cured meats, salumi (especially finocchiona); terrines; roast chicken or duck; feathered game; grilled lamb steak; teriyaki; fried chicken; roast pork loin or fresh ham with a spice rub; mild, triple cream cheeses (St. Andre). Distributors: Empire Distributors $26.00 R.L. Buller & Son Victoria Tawny NV Review Date - 1/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Australia is known for its “stickies,” as the sweet wines are called colloquially, including fortifieds. No longer able to use the term “Port” on any of its fortifieds, Australian producers have resorted to other as-yet un-trademarked terms to refer to their Port-style wines. This Tawny is an example. Showing a medium-deep garnet color with orange tones at the edge, the Victoria Tawny likely is so named because Rutherglen, where R.L. Buller &Son is located, is in Victoria in South Australia. Aromas seemed closed at first, but with a bit of air, developed dark cherry characters with an underlay of vanilla from the barrels. Fresh and dried fruit flavors in layers shape the long, rich, complex palate. Smooth and rich, this delectable and compelling fortified makes an excellent value for after dinner sipping on these cold, sometimes snowy evenings. Multiple grapes in this wine include Grenache, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. Serve cool, about 55F/13C, in small tulip-shaped glasses. 18% alcohol. Suggested Food Pairings: Spiced pecans; firm, aged cheeses such as Robusto or 8-month Manchego, cave-aged Gouda, dark chocolate truffles with medium cacao (about 55-60%); turtle cheesecake; pound cake; fruit cake. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale/NDC $16.00 2008 Peregrine Pinot Noir Review Date - 1/1/2011 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Central Otago on New Zealand’s South Island is the place for Pinot Noir, and that’s where this one originates. Medium-bodied and showing a medium garnet red, the wine exhibits an almost floral fragrance with black cherry notes and a hint of dried herb. This Pinot Noir continues the savory character that’s typical of New Zealand Pinot Noir, so on the palate, look for subdued black cherry flavors, dried herb and the merest hint of brown spice. Soft tannins and a sublime elegance put this wine on the top shelf. Serve at cool temperatures, about 65-68F/17-18C, and use a Burgundy glass--it does make a difference. Suggested Food Pairings: As one taster said: Anything, starting with Cheerios. Well, that’s a mite hyperbolic, but not by much as Pinot Noir can do so much. Creamy chicken liver mousse; all manner of Chinese food, including crispy duck with hoisin sauce; Asian barbecue; dim sum; pork with a variety of sauces; moo shu vegetables, pork or chicken; roast chicken; feathered game; roast pork tenderloin; grilled lamb steak or shoulder chop; roasted or grilled Cornish game hens; various cheeses, although we disagreed between a creamy blue (Cambozola) and Delice de Bourgogne (my preference). Distributors: Empire Distributors $31.00 2009 First Drop The Red One Review Date - 1/1/2011 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Composed of Cabernet Sauvignon (56%);,Shiraz (31|%), Barbera (5%),Trincadeira (5%), Tempranillo (2%) and Nebbiolo (1%), this medium-bodied dry red wine from South Australia shows moderate alcohol (13.5%), a deep ruby red color, and lively fruit characters. It seems mono-dimensional at first, but it requires breathing, so decant about 30 minutes before serving at 60F/1$C in large tulip-shaped glasses. The aromas pick up a leather note to add it to the red and black fruit scents it presents. On the palate, well-evolved black and red fruit characters with ample spites notes, a hint of tobacco and supple tannins. Good acidity prolongs the finish, although it emerges quite markedly at the end, suggesting possible acid has been added post-fermentation. Still, in all a good package (or as the Aussies would say “a nice drop”) that will go with a lot of “tucker” (food) and a fine value. Decant about 30 minutes ahead of serving as this wine exhibits substantial evolution as it breathes. Suggested Food Pairings: Terrines; cured meats (especially “Avondale,“ from Rusty Bowers’ Pine Street Market in Avondale Estates); burgers; meatloaf; Salisbury steak or country-fried steak with mushroom gravy; legume-based stews; grilled lamb; pork steaks with mildly spicy barbecue sauce; root vegetable stews with some ham or other seasoning meat; grilled or roast chicken; meat pot pie; shepherd’s or cottage pie; lamb stew. Distributors: Unique World Wines $10.00 2005 Niner Wine Estates Fog Catcher Red Wine 2005 Review Date - 12/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Pasto Robles, which sits just north of San Luis Obispo, Just a short drive west is San Simeon, where William Randolph Hearst built his famous castle on the Pacific Ocean. Despite its proximity to the Pacific, Paso Robles is a warm climate zone, and therefore is most famous for its reds, especially its red blends, although it also produces some very fine whites. Like most Paso Robles wines, this one is a big full-bodied wine that shows a deep purple-red color. It’s a blend--also what Paso Robles is known for--composed of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Aromas show a mingling of dark fresh fruits and brown spices, with a decided floral note. On the palate, layers of dark fruit and spice lead to a long, clean, acid-backed finish that’s crisp and clean. Intense, big and full-flavored yet elegant, the wine shows well defined yet supple tannins, and oak is restrained, not overwhelming the fruit flavors that set the wine apart from the “madding” crowd. Likely to do well over time if properly cellared, at least another five years. This is a good choice for someone who enjoys New World forward fruit but with some restraint. Serve cool, about 65F/17C in large tulip-shaped glasses. Savor it solo or with a wide variety of foods. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured terrine; cured meats; slow-roasted pork rib roast rubbed with seasoning mix and salt; roast duck rubbed with five spice powder; beef rib roast; grilled lamb steak; smoked beef ribs; barbecue; dark chocolate; firm, aged cheeses, such as aged Gouda, dark chocolate. Distributors: Prestige Wine Wholesale $58.00 2009 Neethlingshof Estate Chardonnay (Unwooded) Review Date - 12/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: The Neethlinshof Estate sits just outside Stellenbosch, South Africa, and is distinguished by an avenue of stone pines that form the foundation of its label design. Biodiversity is a hallmark of the estate’s farming practices, ensuring a balance between agriculture and the indigenous natural world of plants and animals. the wine is made from grapes grown on vines planted in 1999. Classic Chardonnay greenish gold in hue, the wine offers aromas of pear, Golden Delicious apple and citrus notes. On the palate, the same pear and apple flavors layer and tease, finally finishing in a clean, crisp aftertaste. Lively acidity adds balance to the rich fruit. This wine is not a good choice for anyone who likes buttery, oaky Chardonnay, as it’s the polar opposite of that profile. But it might intrigue someone whose benchmark Chardonnay is a steely Chablis. Being a devoted Chablisienne, I find it just my stuff. South Africa should be more well known for its Chardonnay than it is. A well-regarded Atlanta restaurant once did a display of Chardonnay-growing regions of the world, and left the country out altogether. Appalling oversight. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F/13C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Oysters!!! Raw with lemon, baked in a creamy sauce, chicken in a creamy sauce; baked mild fish, such as flounder with crabmeat stuffing; shrimp salad; mild curries with chicken or seafood/fish; fresh cod with Spanish style salsa verde (minced, fresh herbs and butter/olive oil); seafood terrine. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $15.00 2009 C.G. Di Arie Vineyard & Winery Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 12/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Turkish-born and Israeli-reared, winemaker Chaim Gur-Arieh holds a doctorate in food science and was on the team that produced “Cap’n Crunch,” the breakfast cereal. Although known chiefly for Zinfandel (see the October 2010 newsletter) and Syrah, C. G. diArie, located in the Sierra Foothills, produces distinctive white wines as well. While this Shenandoah Valley Sauvignon Blanc is excellent, the winery also does superb Verdelho and Roussanne (available by special order only from the winery). Fewer than 900 cases of this Sauvignon Blanc are made, and even fewer of the Verdelho and Roussanne. The Sauvignon Blanc is a medium-bodied dry white wine showing a medium-pale yellow color with greenish tones. Complexity rules from start to finish, beginning with aromatic characters that capture all manner of exotic fruits, from grapefruit to a touch of banana. It is, however, not the herbaceous style of Sauvignon Blanc. Instead, on the palate one enjoys crisp, mineral-rich yellow fruits, some passion fruit, banana and a touch of pineapple. Clean, crisp and lengthy, the finish is as impressive as the opening. Give the wine some time to open up; one might consider decanting it for maybe 15 minutes (yes, you can decant white wine). Then pour it into medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Serving temperature should not be too cold, about 55-60F/13-15C. This is a good choice for seafood lovers or for anyone who enjoys the myriad manifestations of this grape. Suggested Food Pairings: Crab cakes; salads; arugula and pistachio-crusted goat cheese, lightly sautéed; fried oysters, shrimp or scallops; spinach-stuffed tortellini; grilled or sautéed garlic shrimp; scallops dusted in panko and sautéed in olive oil; baked crab-stuffed flounder; fried or sautéed calamari with lemon aïoli; any mild fish baked, steamed, poached or pan-sauteed with tartar sauce, chicken salad with tarragon; mild triple cream cheeses (St. Andre’). Distributors: Prime $18.00 2006 Cave de Vouvray Tete de Cuvee Sparkling Vouvray Review Date - 12/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Champagne isn’t the only region in France that produces sparkling wine. In fact, it’s produced all over that country’s wine-growing regions, from Alsace to Burgundy and from Bordeaux to Limoux, in Languedoc. It’s also produced in the Loire Valley, in Saumur and in Vouvray, the latter located near the city of Tours. Here, sparkling wine is made from the Chenin Blanc grape, which underlies all Vouvray wines from still to sparkling, and from sweet to dry. The fresh, clean scent of this off-dry example shows how good a sparkling Vouvray can be. The grapes come from 45-year-old vines, and the second fermentation takes place in the bottle. Its pale yellow color shows a slight greenish tint, typical of the genre. The wine pours a fine mousse and maintains a delicate, steady bead. Aromas project a lovely nuttiness and fresh fruit character, focused on pears and Golden Delicious apples. This is a good choice on a budget for someone who likes to explore different genres of wines and wine regions. If well cellared, it could age another five to six years, developing complexity with time. The packaging is impressive, but be aware that some labels show black background instead of the taupe indicated here. Serve at cool temperatures, about 55F/13C in tall flutes or in white wine glasses, as some sparkling wine producers now prefer. Suggested Food Pairings: Creamy liver mousse; ramaki; spiced nuts; mild curries with chicken, fish or seafood; Asian fare (Vietnamese clay pot chicken to Chinese dim sum to Japanese goyza and shumai); creamy, mild cheeses. Don’t think about doing caviar or oysters with this one. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $25.00 Emilio Lustau Light Fino Jarana NV Review Date - 12/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Nothing is more bracing or more unique in flavor than a bone dry Spanish Sherry, either a fino from Jerez de la Frontera or a manzanilla from Sanlúcar de Barrameda. It is the quintessential aperitif, if you’re a fan. But it is an acquired taste. For someone who possesses worldly, experienced palate, this is a very fine gift. Make sure you get a fresh bottle, as freshness is very important in this type of wine. This example, from one of the best producers available in this market, is a classic. Its pale yellow color is a hallmark of freshness, and its aromas, suggesting nuttiness and clean ocean air, mark the genre. On the palate, flavors explode with chalky minerality, an expression of the white “albariza” soil in which these vines grow, and the finish deals the palate a dose of salty tang. This is 18% alcohol, so serve it in small “copitas,” or tulip-shaped glasses. A half dozen of those accompanying the bottle would be a very handsome gift. Grape type: Palomino fino. Taste it with tapas at Café Lily in Decatur. A dry Sherry should be served very cold, about 45F/7-9C, and keep it refrigerated until consumed. Once opened, the bottle should be enjoyed quickly as it loses its distinctive character rather quickly. Suggested Food Pairings: Salted, toasted almonds; green olives; well-aged Manchego cheese; head-on shrimp cooked in olive oil with lots of garlic; chorizo (Spanish style, such as the one being made by The Spotted Trotter in Decatur or by Sausage World in Lilburn); jamón serrano; assorted sashimi; shrimp paste; sushi rolls. Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $18.00 2009 Sheldrake Point Vineyard Late Harvest Riesling Review Date - 12/1/2010 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Sheldrake Point was founded in 1999 on Cayuga Lake the westernmost of the Finger Lakes, NY, and I got to visit it just as it opened. Since then, it has garnered an impressive array of medals from a wide variety of competitions, including having this one declared the “Best Sweet Riesling in the World” and “Best American Riesling” at the 2010 Canberra International Riesling Challenge. Impressed yet? Australia knows a thing or two about Riesling, and produces some pretty splendid examples. The key to sweet wines is acidity--balance, in other words. The sides of your mouth should water as you sip such an elixir, and that happens with this one. Pour it into the glass, and it tumbles out thick and viscous. Ir shows a medium yellow color, as you would expect of the genre. Aromas or at once earthy, spicy and rich with the taste of honey and dried apricots. On the palate, spice, baked apple, pear and orange zest work magic. But then there’s that crisp acidity to cleanse the palate, make the mouth water and push the finish into pleasurable length. This is a great choice for anyone who enjoys dessert wines, of course, but also for fans of the noble Riesling grape. Residual sugar is 11.5%. Serve moderately cool, about 55-60F/13-15C, and use the tulip-shaped Riesling ice wine glass from Riedel. It makes a huge difference. For this review, I tasted the wine in that glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Seared foie gras; liver mousse; lemon squares; apple-based desserts (tart, crostata, crumbed baked apple slices; tart tatin); custards; rice pudding; poached chilled pear with crème anglaise; almond crostata; mild, creamy cheeses, such as triple creams, St. Andre, Delice de Bourgogne. Distributors: From the winery (can ship to Georgia; www.sheldrakepoint.com). $25.00 2007 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Review Date - 12/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: For the collector and the passionate California wine enthusiast, especially one who follows certain nationally prominent reviewers, this wine is a showcase and a very special gift. In 2008 longtime Beringer winemaker Ed Sbragia announced his departure as head winemaker, leaving operations in the hands of his longtime colleague Laurie Hook. The pair had worked as a team for more than 20 years, but Sbragia has started his own family operation, Sbragia Family Vineyards, in Dry Creek Valley, the family’s home turf. So Hook pretty much ran this vintage, although Sbragia often acts as a consultant for Beringer. The Cabernet Sauvignon for this wine comes from a variety of vineyard sites around Napa Valley, and 3% Cabernet Franc is blended in. This is a big, full-bodied (alc.is 14.6%), powerful, extracted, concentrated wine that booms out a big black currant voice when first approached. Two hours after being opened, the wine began to exhibit some spice notes and a touch of vanilla, with a finish that showed its sweet black currant/blackberry fruit enhanced by a touch of cocoa. Silky, tasty tannins stand behind the substantial fruit. Oak doesn’t run roughshod over the fruit. If well cellared, this wine should endure and develop for the next half-decade or so. Meanwhile, be sure to decant well ahead of serving so that it has time to hit its stride. We tasted it over a four-hour period. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65-68F/17-18C, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Keep it simple to showcase the wine: Terrines; prime rib; grilled steak; furred game such as grilled or roasted elk or buffalo (stay away from fruit-based embellishments); creamy, mild blue cheeses, dark chocolate with a bit of sea salt. Distributors: United Distributors $115.00 J Vineyards Cuvee 20 Sparkling Wine NV Review Date - 12/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: An excellent value in sparkling wine, this robust, yeasty example comes from California’s Russian River Valley and is composed of the three classic Champagne varietals: Chardonnay (49%), Pinot Noir (49%) and Pinot Meunier (2%). Its color shows a classic greenish gold, reflecting the presence of Chardonnay. Complexity is the name of the game, beginning with yeasty aromas that offer notes of candied ginger, lemon zest and honey. On the palate, brisk acidity lends heft to crisp tart apple, citrus, and toasted brioche characters. The clean finish is long and rewarding, thanks to that lively acidity making its presence felt throughout the experience. Not being fond of over-chilled Champagne or sparkling wine (or any wine for that matter), I recommend cool room temperature, about 55-60F/13-15C for maximum enjoyment of this wine. Use either a flute (I like Riedel’s Vinum Extreme) or a white wine glass, which many Champagne producers now prefer. This is a winner. Suggested Food Pairings: This wine is capable of handling full-bodied, rich foods, such as empanadas; shrimp salad with lemongrass and cream; creamy chicken pot pie; gnocchi with cream and herbs; sweetbreads sauteed with spinach and pear, cream sauce; chicken in cream sauce or baked over onions, leeks and potatoes; rich Asian dishes, including dim sum, moo shu pork; tonkatsu and tempura; rich, full-flavored, triple cream cheeses. Distributors: National Distributing $20.00 2007 Vino del Sol Manos Negras Malbec 2007 Review Date - 12/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: The whole idea behind the label, meaning “black hands” in Spanish, is that real winemakers get their hands dirty. Three young men (two New Zealanders and one American) with matrimonial ties to Argentina have established this enterprise, and to my taste the Malbec (from 50-year-old vines planted in assorted Mendoza vineyard sites) is the most successful with the potential to turn the heads of even those who claim to dislike Argentine Malbec. Plus it’s just a stand-out Malbec. This medium-to-full-bodied example shows a deeply colored, dark ruby color, Aromas are total black fruit, black plums, black berries, with that floral (lilac) note that marks it as Malbec. Flavors recapitulate the intense, nicely extracted black fruit characters, given a lift by good acidity. The long, crisp finish is an added bonus. Supple tannins make this enjoyable as a young wine, while tannin and acid are likely to ensure good results from near-term careful cellaring. Serve at cellar temperature (55-60F/13-15C) in large tulip-shaped glasses. This is a good gift for anyone who doesn’t like harsh tannins and who does enjoy New World fruit-forward wines. Suggested Food Pairings: Beef or cheese-filled empanadas; all grilled red meats; stews; Argentine matahambre (rolled, stuffed flank steak served thinly sliced and cold), cured meats (chorizo), Cuban boliche (braised, chorizo-stuffed eye-round); firmed, aged cheeses, dark chocolate slightly warm with a bit of large grain gray salt on top. Distributors: Ultimate Distributing $17.00 2005 Philippe et Georges Vatan Chateau du Hureau Saumur-Champigny Review Date - 12/1/2010 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Saumur-Champigny is an Anjou-Saumur appellation that produces Cabernet Franc-based red wines typically aged in old oak or at least in neutral containers. The wines are good young but also may be aged, and are excellent with a wide variety of foods. Located in the town of Dampierre sur Loire, about four miles east of Saumur, Chateau du Hureau--an hureau is an old wild boar, the chateau’s icon image--is often described as a consistently good source of Saumur-Champigny wines. This example is from a splendid vintage, and shows the classic characters: a deep ruby red color with aromas of dried herbs overlaying black raspberry and blackberry fruit. The savory palate reprises the dried herb notes, which continue through the finish. Fruit and tannin are well stitched together. I know who I’m giving this to, but he already loves the wines of the Loire Valley. Otherwise, I would recommend it for anyone who might like to see a benchmark Cabernet Franc or who would like to get familiar with wines from parts of France they might not know well. The Loire is chateau country, so perhaps it might inspire someone to trek its 1000 mile course. Serve this wine slightly cool, about \65F/17C, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Pasta with wild boar sauce (singularly appropriate in this instance), wild boar chops (anybody out there who did some boar hunting this fall, this is your wine); lamb; roast chicken or duck; wine-braised short ribs of beef on mashed potatoes, grits or polenta;grilled sausages; roast pork loin; crispy pork belly; wild mushroom ravioli with butter and olive oil; meat casseroles; legume-based dishes; firm, aged cheeses. Distributors: Lynda Allison Selections $23.00 2007 Skalli Maison Bouachon Chateauneuf du Pape La Tiare du Pape Review Date - 12/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Chateauneuf du Pape lies in the southern Rhone Valley in southeastern France. Its major grapes are Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre, and this example follows that model, with the Grenache coming from 70-yaer-old vines and constituting 60% of the blend. The other two varieties take up the balance evenly divided between them. The minimum required is 50% Grenache, and AOC regulations require the wine to be aged a minimum of 12 months in oak before being blended, as is the case with this example. A deep ruby red color and aromas of dark fruits (blackberries and black plums) sets up the palate for the flavors of deep, rich, dark fruit on a frame of fruit-derived, round tannins. As the wine opens, brown spice characters emerge, adding complexity. Serving temperatures for this wine should be about 65F/17C, and it should be poured into large tulip-shaped glasses. This is a good choice for someone who enjoys Old World wines yet looks for a tilt toward the New World’s preference for rich fruit. As it’s a good candidate for cellaring if well stored, making this is a terrific choice for a collector. It should develop nicely over another 5-6 years, gaining complexity and tempering the forward fruit. Suggested Food Pairings: Rustic terrines or smooth pates; grilled calves’ liver with bacon; roast beef; braised meat dishes and stews; grilled lamb; roast duck; spice-rubbed pork rib roast; barbecue with a slightly hot/spicy tomato-based sauce (the not-too-hot “hot” version from Richard‘s Kitchen was perfect, 912-437-3379; $3.50/btl); furred game; wild mushroom ravioli; dark chocolate; firm, aged cheeses. Distributors: National Distributing $40.00 2005 Lenotti Amarone della Valpolicella D.O.C. Classico Review Date - 12/1/2010 Score - 95 Tasting Note: From north of Verona (the town of Romeo and Juliet), the Veneto Classico area of Valpolicella yields some of Italy’s most compelling wines. And most food flexible. Amarone is a word related to the Italian word for bitter (amaro), but there’s nothing bitter about this wine. Made from the traditional grapes--Corvina (70%), Rondinella (25%) and Molinara (5%)--that are left to dry in wooden cases until late winter, this full-bodied dry red wine shows a dark ruby red color with just the beginnings of brick tones around the edge. On the palate, deep, intense, rich dark fruits with a hint of apple and soft tannins craft a sensual experience. The broad mid palate and long finish are hallmarks of this wine. Long aging in wood gives its intense fruit character some spiciness. This is a great choice for someone who may be a collector, as this very limited production wine would become even more interesting with several more years of proper cellaring. Decant about an hour before serving at cool room temperature, about 65F/17C, and use large, tulip-shaped glasses. A great gift wine. Suggested Food Pairings: Rich, robust fare, such as braised red meats--osso buco over polenta; braised short ribs; pot roast--stews; furred game; mature cheeses; dark chocolate with sea salt. But this one easily does well as an after-dinner sipper all by glorious self. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $57.00 Rotta Winery Black Monukka NV Review Date - 11/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Black Monukka is a fairly rare grape, and rarely is it vinified. In fact, Rotta claims to be the only commercial winery in the U.S. that makes wine out of it. The juice is fermented, then fermentation is stopped by the addition of neutral grape spirits. But then the wine is left to bake in the sun in barrels for two years, a method used in such places as Montilla-Moriles (Cordoba, Spain), where the wines are not usually fortified. Like Sherry, it is produced in a solera system, with the oldest wine in the barrels on the bottom and the newest wine on top. So it’s non-vintage wine. This luscious elixir shows a reddish amber color, with aromas of toffee, caramel, vanilla (from French oak) and toasted nuts. The palate exhibits a seamless integration of flavors. Distinctive and delicious, this is a wine to sip and sip and sip. Good chilled, it’s also nice at room temperature. I go for chilled to about 60F/15C. Serve it in small tulip-shaped glasses. Alcohol is high, about 19%. This will keep well once opened for prolonged enjoyment, but keep it refrigerated. Suggested Food Pairings: Spiced pecans; pumpkin cheese cake with toasted nuts scattered on top; pumpkin roulade (spice cake with a pumpkin filling, rolled), whipped cream; pecan pie; pound cake; creamy mild cheeses (Delice de Bourgogne). Distributors: AllGood Wine & Spirits $25.00 2009 Estylo Puro Albariño Review Date - 11/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: From northwestern Spain, with its jagged coastline, comes this distinctive grape, also is grown on the Portuguese side of the Minho River (Miño in Spanish), as alvarinho in Vinho Verde. The fjords or “rias” of Rias Baixas in Galicia penetrate the land, bringing the cooling ocean air from the Atlantic; the terraced vineyards that resist mechanical harvesting are ideal for this highly perfumed grape. With its pale straw color, its citrus-kissed aromas, and its mineral-rich palate, this example is an excellent introduction to the grape. Good acidity brings the taste to a mouthwatering conclusion, preparing the palate for the next sip of wine or bite of food. Delicious chilled, to about 55F/13C, it seems even better to me when it warms up in the glass, becoming more complex and showing its stony mineral character. Use a tulip-shaped white wine glass. These are not wines for keeping, so don’t cellar. They’re ready to drink when released, and should be enjoyed young. Suggested Food Pairings: Most fish (sea bass and fresh cod) and shellfish, although I was disappointed in it with scallops, oddly, as that’s practically the regional dish of Galicia and usually does well with albariño; shrimp salad; gambas (shrimp) al ajillo (with garlic)--best done with head-on shrimp; crab cakes; fried catfish nuggets with homemade tartar sauce; goat cheese rolled in garlic and fresh herbs (particularly good--Coles Lake Dairy, Carrollton, GA); sauteed vegetables with chicken strips. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $15.00 2009 Rotta Winery Zinfandel Rose' Review Date - 11/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Now more than 100 years old, Rotta Winery was founded in San Louis Obispo County, just south of Paso Robles, by the Rotta family. Still governed by descendents of the founders, Rotta does a wide range of wines, including dessert wines. This deep pinkish red (fuschia0 rose is not a so-called blush wine, many of which are made from Zinfandel. Instead, this is a solid rose’, tending to dry (just a smidge over .1% residual sugar--nearly nothing) and with good acidity (.65 T.A.) and moderate alcohol (12.7%). A little Primitiveo, cousin of Zinfandel as they share the same ancestry, is blended in to lift the aromas. On the nose, aromas of red fruits especially strawberries and cherries, lead to a flavor profile that offers plenty of red fruit character, chiefly red raspberries and currants, with touches of spice. The long, fruit-driven finish is most rewarding, with a hint of watermelon in the close. Serve moderately chilled, about 55 F/13 C, in medium-tall tulip-shaped glasses. Riedel has done a glass especially for rose, complete with a pink stem. Lovely. Suggested Food Pairings: Roast turkey (either white or dark meat) with sausage stuffing (ok but not as good with roast chicken); deep-fried Cajun turkey; slow-roasted fresh ham or pork butt/shoulder rubbed with mild spices; roast ham; leftovers, including turkey wraps; turkey pot pie. Other turkey dishes: barbecued turkey thighs, turkey meatloaf with mushrooms, picadillo made with ground turkey or turkey chili (but not wicked hot spicy). Distributors: AllGood Wine & Spirits $11.00 2007 Weingut Villa Riesling Spatlese Review Date - 11/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Riesling is the dominant white wine of Germany, and plays an important role elsewhere as well, notably Alsace, France. This example is from the Mosel (known until 2007 as the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer as the region covers those three valleys). The Mosel’s Continental climate, its steeply sloped vineyards, and the slate-rich soils all contribute to the wine’s distinctive character. Medium-bodied with moderate alcohol (8%) and good acidity, this wine shows a medium greenish yellow color. Aromas exhibit the petrol or fusil oil character that Rieslings often acquire with aging, while on the palate pear and crisp ripe apple fruit characters pick up the pace. A burst of fruit flavor completes the finish. Spatlese denotes a wine that has been picked late in the harvest cycle, so is richer and more full-bodied than wines made from grapes picked earlier. Spatlese may also be made as a dry wine (trocken) or off-dry (halb-trocken), either being very satisfying and very balanced. Serve chilled, about 55-60F/13-15C in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Roast turkey with mashed potatoes, pan sauce and standard bread/celery stuffing; leftovers such as curried turkey over rice or pasta or curried turkey salad; stuffing-and-turkey pancakes with pan sauce Other foods: Chinese dishes (not sweet and sour) with pork, chicken or seafood; fish poached in beer with a mustard bechamel sauce; crab-stuffed flounder; sauteed pork steaks in mustard cream sauce; turkey wraps. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $16.00 2009 Crane Creek Vineyards Traminette Review Date - 11/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Traminette is a hybrid of Joannes Seyve 23.416 (closely related to Seyval Blanc), itself a hybrid, and Gewurztraminer, which is Vitis vinifera. H. C. Barrett at the University of Illinoi did the crossing in 1965, thinking it would produce a good table grape. He gave seed to the Cornell University Geneva Experiment Station for development, and from there it was released in 1996. It has made inroads in Virginia, North Carolina, Tennessee and north Georgia. This one is labeled “American” appellation as the grapes were grown both in North Georgia at Crane Creek and nearby in North Carolina. The grape produces aromas and flavors reminiscent of its vinifera parent, while being more cold hardy and disease resistant. .With its bright medium-pale slightly greenish yellow color, this light- medium-bodied example shows the classic Gewurztraminer aromas of lichee nut and honeysuckle. On the palate, lichee nut dominates. Serve chilled, about 50 F/10 C.in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: As an aperitif with grilled shrimp and mango salsa; crab cakes or crab legs; sauteed soft-shell crab with a little curry powder in the dusting flour; slightly spicy crab and cream cheese spread on crackers. Distributors: From the winery (Young Harris, GA) $18.00 2008 Erath Vineyards Pinot Gris Review Date - 11/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc do better than Chardonnay with white meat turkey. Oregon, which requires that all its Pinot Gris be so labeled and not labeled Pinot Grigio, turns out some of America’s best, following an Alsace lead. Capturing the aromas of honey (but not its sweetness) this example adds fragrant melon characters to the mix. Medium-bodied with a medium pale yellow color, this wine reveals flavors of melon and pear with a definite honey note on the palate. The grapes were gathered from more than a half dozen various vineyards around the state, and yielded a wine with high total acidity (.7%) and a low ph (3.20), which makes the perception of acidity even sharper. Done in stainless steel with no malolactic fermentation, which would have reduced acidity, the wine offers a clean, soft, rich palate with a long, satisfying finish. The little residual sugar (<.6) rounds out the texture. Very nice value, and a wine for many palates. Serve at about 55 degrees F/13 degrees C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Ravioli stuffed with pumpkin or butternut squash, brown butter, toasted pine nuts; grilled shrimp or scallops with remoulade sauce; roasted turkey breast (insert slivers of garlic throughout before roasting) with pan juices and butternut squash; simple bread stuffing with celery and onion; Other foods: Asian dishes with seafood, pork or chicken; some spice ok, roast pork; Vietnamese green papaya salad or Thai Yum Yai salad (good companions with turkey); mild Camembert-style cheeses (such as Georgia’s CalyRoad Creamery).. Not especially good with roast chicken. Distributors: United Distributors $14.00 2009 Domaine Hospice Lejeune Bourgogne 2009 Review Date - 11/1/2010 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Wines labeled “Bourgogne” come from grapes that may be grown anywhere in this long, narrow region of France whose wines have such a stellar reputation. These come from vines that by French standards are fairly young, 10-20 years old. Of course, the grape is Pinot Noir. Medium-bodied with a bright purple red color, this example of basic Burgundy shows a lovely vanilla-caressed red and dark fruit aroma, with a hint of brown spices. On the palate, a melange of red and dark cherries provides a pleasingly juicy experience with a decently long finish. Soft tannins give the fruit something to hang on eo, some structure. A potential keeper for 4-5 years if well cellared, this is a wine to be served cool, about 60 F/15C in medium-sized round-bowl glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Chinese duck with natural juices or roast duck with raisin bread stuffing, Japanese sweet potatoes; roast turkey (either white or dark meat, very good) with sausage stuffing (suggest rabbit/pork belly/fig sausage from The Spotted Trotter); smoked duck with figs (Rolling Bones); roast chicken with classic bread/celery stuffing or cornbread dressing; boneless turkey breast stuffed with ham then rolled and tied; roasted Cornish game hen, cous cous and dried dark fruits stuffing; feathered game. Leftovers: turkey and wild mushrooms, pan sauce, over stone-ground grits, mashed potatoes or pasta; duck salad. Mild cheeses. Distributors: Lynda Allison Selections $20.00 2009 Escarpment Over The Edge Pinot Noir Review Date - 11/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Wine enthusiasts today wax poetic over Pinot Noir from Central Otago, on New Zealand’s South Island. But there’s a little southeast corner of the North Island that turns out some pretty fine Pinot Noir work, too. Martinborough, in Wairarapa, ought to get more attention than it does. The town itself is worthy of a visit, with its antique shops and historic old hotel, the Peppers Martinborough Hotel. Perched at 40 degrees S, Martinborough produces Pinot Noirs that balance sweet and savory characters in a most appealing way. Elegance rules in this example of Martinborough Pinot Noir, a medium-bodied dry red wine with aromas of dried herb and red and dark fruits. On the palate, silky tannins frame red and dark fruit flavors but don’t think fruit juice as the fruit is tempered by that classic dried herb character. The wine was aged in French oak barriques, 30% new. Serve at cool temperatures, about 65F/17C in round-bowl shaped glasses. Great value. Suggested Food Pairings: Roast turkey with sage-influenced bread or sausage stuffing; roast duck with raisin bread stuffing; Chinese roast duck; roast Cornish hen with raisin bread stuffing; feathered game; roasted squab; quail. Other foods: chicken liver pâté; grilled chicken livers on rosemary skewers; grilled wild-caught salmon; braised rabbit or braised turkey thighs with wild mushrooms; mild creamy white rind cheeses. Distributors: Unique World Wines $15.00 2008 Cave des Vignerons de Saumur Reserve des Vignerons Review Date - 11/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Big full-bodied red wines aren’t all that much fun with roast turkey, but light- to medium-bodied red wines hit the mark. One example is this 100% Cabernet Franc wine from Saumur in the Loire Valley, France. It provides a deep purple eed color--darker than Cabernet Franc-based wines often are, especially from cooler climates. Aromas are a bit herbaceous, suggesting bell pepper, while red fruit characters and black currant lurk in the background and shape the palate, which picks up a lively spiciness. The supple tannins are elegant and rich, and the finish is long and graceful. Definitely warrants being slightly chilled; indeed the producer recommends 57F/14C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Could cellar for a couple of years, although it’s fine for right now. Suggested Food Pairings: Very versatile. All roasted poultry (go with sausage-bread stuffing or chestnut stuffing for turkey; raisin bread stuffing for duck or Cornish hen); smoked poultry (especially duck); slow-roasted fresh ham rubbed with aromatic spices; boneless turkey breast stuffed with minced dried dark fruits and bread crumbs, tolled up and tied; turkey meatloaf with mushrooms. Other foods: slow-roasted pork belly; turkey pot pie; turkey hash with mushrooms and Madeira over grits or polenta; goat cheese; smoked beef brisket; pulled pork. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $14.00 Capel Vale D'Lucio Vendimia Temprana Sparkling Rose NV Review Date - 11/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Nothing is more festive than sparkling wine, and now it comes in a variety of styles. True Champagne enthusiasts always go for brut rose’. But Australia does sparkling Shiraz (and other red wines) as does Argentina, and in the Loire Valley (Saumur notably) you’ll find sparkling Cabernet Franc. Rose’always pleases the eye as well as the palate. This example from Murcia, in eastern Spain, is not a cava as it’s not from any of the designated cava regions. The grapes were gathered early harvest (that’s what Vendimia Temprana means), so the sugars aren’t high, meaning the acidity will be high, and the alcohol relatively low. Sure enough, this one comes in at just 7%, so your guests won’t be rambunctious by the time they sit down to dinner. A lovely fuschia color appeals to the eye, while aromas present volumes of red raspberry characters. On the palate, red fruit flavors dominate, and continue through the clean, fruit sweet finish. Made from the Tempranillo grape, this off-dry sparkling rose’ is a full meal deal (except for dessert). Fine value. Serve at 50-55F/10-13C in flutes or in white wine glasses (now more recommended for sparkling wines as the aromas are more easily perceived). You might also use the Riedel rose’ glass with its pink stem--very pretty. Suggested Food Pairings: Chinese barbecued ribs; salt-and-pepper shrimp or squid; shrimp or crab with Creole-style remoulade sauce; crab and cream cheeses spread with crackers; crawfish salad; dim sum; Chinese barbecue buns; teriyaki skewers; chorizo (Spanish style). Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $12.00 2009 Meziat Pere et Fils Domaine de la Combe au Loup Chiroubles Review Date - 11/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Chiroubles is one of the 10 cru Beaujolais that constitute the apex of the region’s production, made from the Gamay noir a jus blanc grape. (White Beaujolais is made from Chardonnay among other varieties may also be used, but is always a Beaujolais-Villages wine, but never a cru.). There also is some quite tasty rose’, but it, too, will not be a cru. Gamay noir is a crossing of Pinot Noir and an ancient central European variety called Gouais that likely came to France with the Romans. One of my favorite parts of France, Beaujolais is an exciting wine experience from every point of view: food; lodging (love the many bed-and-breakfast inns, such as Domaine de la Grosse Pierre, also in Chiroubles and also a winery); landscape; lovely towns; friendliness; and of course the wine. This example shows classic Chiroubles characters, with a deep purple red color and soft tannins, and the burst of violet characters in the aromas--a major hallmark of Chiroubles. On the palate, a delectable red currant/red cherry profile is supported by soft tannins and a suggestion of brown spices. This elegant, medium-bodied wine is best served--and traditionally so--fairly cool, at about 60F/15C in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Chiroubles is the highest in altitude of the crus and indeed at the highest altitude in Beaujolais. Suggested Food Pairings: Chinese or roast duck; chicken; pheasant, Cornish game hen or turkey with sausage/chestnut stuffing; slow-roasted pork shoulder or fresh ham; roast pork tenderloin with prune-bread stuffing; coq au vin rouge; mild cheeses. Distributors: Lynda Allison Selections $20.00 2007 Niner Wine Estates Sangiovese Bootjack Ranch Review Date - 11/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Brought to California no doubt by Italian immigrants to the state, Sangiovese , the grape of Italy’s Chianti, is finding new turf in this country from California to Georgia. In this example, from Paso Robles in southern California, just a scosh of Cabernet Sauvignon (3%) boosts the body and intensity of a wine that typically is lighter in body and less intense in color than is this one. Clearly a New World approach to the grape, Niner’s version is more fruit-forward than one would find in a Chianti or Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. This example shows aromas of dark fresh fruits, with emphasis on dark berries and Tellicherry black pepper. On the palate, a decided dark chocolate character takes hold of the fruit characters. Tannins are soft, but alcohol is high (typical of Paso Robles thanks to its heat--14.5%), and you can feel it to some degree. Cool the wine down to 62 degrees F/16 degrees C, and you’ll temper the heat. Also give it rich foods to work with. Suggested Food Pairings: Roast chicken or turkey (sausage stuffing); smoked duck; duck lasagna; turkey pot pie; turkey shepherd’s pie; braised pork shoulder; slow-roasted fresh ham with spice rub; dark meat turkey with prunes and sun-dried tomatoes; braised lamb shanks or turkey legs with tomatoes, peppers and lotsa garlic. Distributors: Prestige Wine Wholesale $20.00 2004 Campos Góticos Pecunia Review Date - 10/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: This full-bodied dry red wine is made entirely from the Tempranillo grape. In Ribera del Duero, which lies north of Madrid, winemaking goes back some 2000 years, and produces mostly red wines. In this region, the local name for Tempranillo is “tinto fino.” These wines often are very expensive, so this example is extraordinarily well priced. Founded in 1998, these wines are biodynamically produced. The deep, inky dark purple color predicts a luscious experience, which begins with a heady, intense aroma of leather, dried figs, and some toffee. On the palate, supple tannins frame fresh dark fruit characters, made more complex by touches of soy and balsamic. The wine spent 12 months in new French oak, yet the fruit and oak are seamlessly integrated. Indigenous yeast. Still a young wine, with many years to go if properly cellared. At this point, best to decant for at least an hour before serving. At moderately cool room temperature (67ºF/17ºC) in medium-sized fulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Coarse-textured terrines rather than smooth-textured pâtés; steak with queso Cabrales (bleu cheese from Asturias) sauce; duck with figs; roast or smoked duck; lamb; sausages and salamis (morcilla--a blood sausage with rice--would be splendid with this--I’ve seen it at Buford Hwy. Farmers Market); game (elk); legume dishes (fabada Asturiana--wow!); rich, aged cheeses or creamy blues. Georgia Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $17.00 2008 Leo Hillinger Small Hill Red Review Date - 10/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: An intriguing cuvée made from Pinot Noir (25%), St. Laurent (25%), and Merlot, this wine expresses so well the sort of red wines one finds in Austria. Soft, supple and deeply colored, showing a violet-tinged deep, dark red, this medium-bodied dry red wine (just . 6 residual sugar) presents aromas and flavors of dark berries with just a hint of dark chocolate peeking through in the finish. St. Laurent is a grape grown in Austria in the Niederosterreich and Bergenland regions. This wine is from the latter region in Austria’s farthest east, bordering Hungary, Slovenia and Slovakia. Suggested Food Pairings: Best served slightly cool, about 65ºF/17ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses, it pairs will with a very wide range of foods: Substantial Chinese fare, such as pork pot stickers or dumplings with soy-based dipping sauce; Chinese barbecue-stuffed pork buns, other meat- and poultry-based dim sum; Chinese barbecue, Chinese roast duck; roast lamb; Hawaiian-style barbecued short ribs; soy-barbecued chicken; braised beef shanks, smoked pulled pork, smoked pork loin or smoked pork chops. Georgia Distributors: Hemispheres $23.00 2006 C.G. Di Arie Vineyard & Winery Zinfandel Review Date - 10/1/2010 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Let’s hear it for “Cap’n Crunch.” Turkish-born and Israeli-reared Chaim Gur-Arieh, Ph.D. developed foods for a fair number of major commercial food developers, always focusing on flavor--among them the cereal “Cap’n Crunch.” This Zinfandel is a blend of estate-grown Zinfandel and Gunther’s Vineyard, which is the older of the two properties. In fact, this is the first year that the C. G. d’Arie vineyard has produced grapes for this wine. In addition, estate-grown Petite Sirah (13%) and Syrah (1%) play roles in this wine. This is not the classic alcoholic (although the numbers read 14.5%), over-extracted, beastly feast kind of Zinfandel that’s become so widespread. Instead, this one actually reads more elegantly, with aromas of dried dark and red fruits and a whiff of cocoa, On the palate, find rich, enticing, complex focused on dark fruits, with the classic Zinfandel black pepper notes. While most Zinfandel defies solo sipping, this one won’t raise the devil if assigned that role. But it’s best with food. Serve slightly cool to temper the alcohol, about 65-67ºF/17-18ºC in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Riedel makes a glass for Zinfandel, and it’s a good all-purpose vessel as well. Suggested Food Pairings: Shepherd’s or cottage pie; braised beef with mashed potatoes; spice-rubbed (but not hot) ribs; root vegetable stew with country ham; coq au Zinfandel; smoked meats; roast duck with Asian five-spice powder or other rub; grilled sausages; roast lamb or grilled lamb chop; veal chop stuffed with ham and Fontina cheese. Georgia Distributors: Prime Distributors $25.00 2006 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre I.G.T. Review Date - 10/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: This wine is a “ripasso,” a process that became popular in the late 20th century for wines from around Verona. Two methods may be used: For one, leftover grape skins and seeds remaining from the fermentation of recioto wines (grapes are dried on straw mats before being pressed) and Amarone are added to the wine to boost the body, alcohol, glycerin and tannins. A second method adds partially dried grapes, a method that produces less harsh tannins. Both methods kick off a second fermentation, and produce compounds that enhance complexity. In this example, containing 70% Corvina veronese, 25% Rondinella, and 5% Sangiovese, 70% of the grapes were vinified when freshly picked, while 30% were left to dry until December. All were grown in the Palazzo della Torre vineyard. This full-bodied wine shows a deep purple-red color. Aromas are pure Italian, with hints of dried berries among the fresh berry fruit characters. Rich, intense and showing dark fruits and spice notes, the wine provides a clean, long finish and supple tannins. Still youthful, it would be good to decant about an hour before serving at 60-65ºF/15-17ºC in large tulip-shaped red wine glasses. With proper cellaring, this wine should develop well over the next decade. The 2007 vintage is due soon. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled sirloin steak with gremolata sauce (at Davio‘s); stews and braised meats; risotti with mushrooms; duck; lamb; roast turkey (great Thanksgiving wine); pasta with meat sauces; roast chicken; game (both feathered and furred; mild aged cheeses. Georgia Distributors: Empire Distributing $28.00 2006 Simonsig Redhill Pinotage Review Date - 10/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Pinotage, a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, got such a bad reputation that even some South African winemakers (although only a few) won’t go near it. We’ve all had it when it reeked of paint thinner, band-aid or medicine, or whatever you might want to call that off-putting scent. But modern South African winemakers have gotten a handle on it, although some enthusiasts lament the loss of the old style. (I fear I can’t join in, though.) Now one or two even make traditional method sparkling wine out of the grape, and it’s yummy. This example, from one of the Cape’s oldest (1688) immigrant families, earned the maximum five stars in the 2009 Platter guide. The wine shows Pinotage’s propensity for completely opaque inky dark purple red color, and aromas of dark berries and black plums. On the palate, you’ll taste gobs of juicy black fruit, a slight juniper character and the merest hint of dark chocolate. Round, rich, supple tannins enrobe the experience. As silky an experience as one could want in a wine, this Pinotage deserves its kudos. Serve it moderately cool, about 67ºF/17ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Simonsig was founded in 1971, and is a beautiful property to visit and schedule a meal at its restaurant. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken livers grilled on a rosemary skewer; oxtails braised in Pionotage (all over the country); bobotie (a layered ground meat dish with aromatic spices); grilled meats; cured meats; game; braised beef with mashed potatoes; slow-roasted pork belly; firm, aged cheeses, creamy blue cheeses. Oh, and kudu (an antelope) if only we could get it. Georgia Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $23.00 2008 Henry Estate Winery Müller-Thurgau Review Date - 10/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: A product of Germany’s Geisenheim institute in the late 19th century, Müller-Thurgau (MOO-ler TER-gow) is the work of one of the researchers, Dr. Hermann Müller who was from the Swiss canton of Thurgau. Harnessing the qualities of two vinifera grapes, he crossed Riesling with Madeleine Royal (although many erroneously thought it was Sylvaner), and there you have it. Whether you’ve heard of it before or not, the grape is widely planted, totally more than 100,000 acres worldwide from Germany to New Zealand and to the U.S., chiefly in Oregon, where some 15 producers regularly vinify it. Müller-Thurgau is ideally grown in the Willamette Valley, whose cool climate nurtures the grape. Light-bodied, with a bit of spritz and a slightly greenish straw color, this example is classic in its gentle floral scent. Light also in alcohol (10%), the wine exhibits gentle floral aromas, followed by sweet (but not cloying) ripe pear and pear/apple flavors. Sound more like summer fare? Perhaps, but if you’ll serve it cool, about 55ºF/13ºC, (not chilled) in tulip-shaped glasses it will accompany a number of dishes appropriate to this transition season, especially the spicy ones. Suggested Food Pairings: Hunan chicken, pork pot stickers with soy-based dipping sauce; slightly spicy cold noodle dishes, Szechuan seafood; Thai shrimp green curry; prosciutto or bresaola (air-dried beef) and pear. New Orleanians say it’s great with gumbo, but I haven’t tried that one. Georgia Distributors: Big Boat $14.00 2007 Aia Vecchia Lagone I.G.T. Review Date - 10/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: So-called “Super Tuscans” broke out from the D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. laws to allow Italian winemakers some measure of freedom in choosing non-traditional grape varieties for their wines. Now labeled. I.G.T., for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, such wines are creating a buzz in the American market for their “modernity” and their juicy fruit-forward character. When I first tasted this one, I thought it seemed very un-Italian, lacking the cedar, leather and cigar box notes I like in red Italian wines. But in a second tasting, I was won over when I saw how well it paired with specific sauces vs. the Sangiovese-based Allegrini (see below). This full-bodied wine is chiefly based on Merlot (60%), with Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). Its deep purple-red color shows youthfulness, while the attractive aromas exhibit some oak (a variety of oak is used) supporting the fresh, dark fruit characters. Supple tannins frame juicy dark and red fruit flavors that get additional interest from brown spice notes. Serve at about 67ºF;18ºC in large tulip-shaped glasses. Excellent value. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled steak with Port wine sauce or brandy peppercorn sauce; grilled butterflied boneless leg of lamb, bourbon-based marinade; smoked meats; roast duck rubbed with aromatic spices; game; firm, aged, mild cheeses. Georgia Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits $19.00 2008 Bernard Chamfort Domaine de Verquière Vacqueyras Review Date - 10/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Located near Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas, Vacqueyras obtained AOL status in 1990, making it a relative newcomer. Its wines represent some excellent values. The grapes that compose this wine are great for fall fare: Grenache (must be a minimum of 50% in this appellation; in this example it’s 70%); Syrah, 20% (minimum) and Cinsault, 10%. (maximum other grape types, such as Cinsault or Mourvèdre), This full-bodied (14% alc.) dry red wine presents a lovely purple red color and aromas that capture rose petals, black currant jam, black cherries. On the palate, sweet fruit-derived tannins lend structure to flavors of black fruits and brown aromatic spices. Round, dense and concentrated, this is a wine for cellaring another 10 years if kept at cool temperatures. Serve between 60-65ºF/15-17ºC in large tulip-shaped glasses. Terrific value. Suggested Food Pairings: Wraps; braised meats; game (both feathered and furred); meat pies; coarse-textured terrines; sausages (both fresh grilled and cured), legume-based dishes; rich, aged, mild cheeses (although I‘d bet on it with Fourme d‘Ambert, a blue from the Rhône that is widely available); quite good with barbecued chicken. Georgia Distributors: Lynda Allison Selections $20.00 2008 J Vineyards Chardonnay Review Date - 10/1/2010 Score - 87 Tasting Note: This is a California classic, so I must confess up front it’s not my style. But if you enjoy bright fruit affected fairly strongly by new (about 40%) French oak, you’re in business with this one. A year of bottle age before release means it’s had some time to integrate fruit and oak. As a white wine well suited to cooler weather foods, this Chardonnay has the power to handle substantial dishes. Full-bodied and showing a medium-deep yellow color, the wine exhibits a bouquet of oak-influenced characters, including caramel and toasted almonds overlaying lemon aromas (classic for Russian River Valley). On the palate, more oak with enhanced nuttiness, caramel and brown spices. The lemon characters have the final word. Hefty alcohol (although not by California standards) at 14% doesn’t show excessively Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Goat-cheese-stuffed baked chicken breasts; fish dishes such as a Moroccan fish tagine (not shellfish) or chicken with saffron or cumin; grilled chicken apple sausages with mashed potatoes and sautéed onions; roast chicken stuffed with dried yellow fruits. Not suggested with shellfish as the oak would overwhelm their delicate flavors. Georgia Distributors: National Distributing Co. $26.00 2008 Helfrich Gewürztraminer Review Date - 10/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Perhaps no other white wine does better with heftier fare than Gewürztraminer. Many consumers still think of this variety as producing only sweet wines, but that’s absolutely not so. While several U.S. producers turn out dry Gewürztraminer, Alsace is the point place for the genre. This one is classically styled, with minimal winemaker intervention, allowing the fruit to show its true character. Full-bodied and showing a slight greenish yellow color, this wine presents the grape’s typical characters of rose petal, lichee nut and spice. The same features shape the palate, there joined by a rich, mouthwatering liveliness of fruit, a strong, deep mid-palate and lingering finish. Complex and layered, this is a terrific value. Serve it moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Roast turkey with standard bread stuffing (no sage, please), fish poached in beer or baked and served with a whole-grain mustard béchamel sauce; mild curries made with seafood, chicken or pork; pork shoulder braised in sauerkraut with mashed potatoes; full-bodied Indian dishes (but not wicked hot); ripe, aged cheeses--especially French Münster. Georgia Distributors: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/National Distributing Co. $15.00 2008 Round Peak Vineyards Sangiovese Review Date - 10/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Sangiovese is becoming increasingly important to this region in both North Carolina and north Georgia. This winery, located nearly to the Virginia line, is under the winemaking governance of Sean McRitchie, who began the North Carolina segment of his winemaking life (he hails from Oregon) at Shelton Brothers, but now has his own eponymous winery and makes the wines for Round Peak. This Sangiovese has modest alcohol--12.5%--but comes out swinging with a full-bodied approach that is very appealing. The clean pure fresh juicy dark fruit aromas and flavors--plums especially--are held together by firm but fruit-derived tannins. While one might wish for more complexity, there’s no denying the delectable characters it offers. This is a good choice for a lot of different foods, and could convince white wine drinkers that there’s life on the other side of the divide. I like this one a mite cool, about 60ºF/15ºC, as it really pops the fruit. Use a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Duck both roasted rubbed with five-spice powder and smoked; pulled pork and smoked short ribs of beef; roast chicken or turkey, grilled mild Italian sausages; cured and dried meats; a proper muffaletta (E. 48th Street Market/Dunwoody); pasta with meat sauces; composed meat salads; legume-based dishes; mild goat cheese Looking ahead to next month, a perfect turkey wine with a turkey stuffed with sausage stuffing. Georgia Distributors: At the winery (shipping license in the works for GA) $18.00 2001 Bodegas Marqués de Arviza Reserva D. O. C. Review Date - 10/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Spending a minimum of 12 months in oak, this full-bodied dry red wine, made from Tempranillo, is a wine that speaks classic Rioja Spanish while offering the kind of deep fruit one finds typically in New World wines. The aromas make clear its Rioja origins, with the freshly tanned leather aromas that say “I’m Old World.” Then follows a rich, dark berry palate that’s deep and impressive without carrying on a fruit-driven temper tantrum. Keeping a handle on the Old World, the wine finishes long and clean with a union of New and Old World characters that make one sip demand another. Lovely work. Serve moderately cool, around 68ºF/18ºC in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Spanish-style cured meats (chorizo; lomo; jamón serrano); roast pork (would give anything for some cochinillo or cordero lechal with this); roast chicken; mildly seasoned sausages with onions, peppers and tomato; pulled pork with tomato-based not-too-sweet barbecue sauce; smoked ribs; feathered or furred game; well-aged Manchego and other aged Spanish cheeses. Georgia Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $23.00 2008 Surry Community College Chardonel Review Date - 9/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Late-ripening Chardonel is a cross between Seyval and Chardonnay first made in 1953. This vigorous, cold-resistant vine produces lots of grapes in large clusters, and yields a wine that shows none of the so-called “foxy” character often associated with native American grapes. The grape is grown from Missouri and Arkansas through the Midwest to North Carolina. Chardonel makes wines that are clean, crisp and often show very high acidity, sometimes so high one has to wait six months or so after bottling to be able to enjoy them. With a very pale yellow color, this medium-bodied slightly off-dry white wine exhibits a clean scent that captures banana and yellow stone fruits. In mid palate, a slight but pleasing bracing acidity carries the citus-kissed tropical fruit flavors into a long finish. I like this one served just below cool room temperature, so the flavors show, abt 55ºF/13ºC. Produced by the students and faculty of the Viticultural and Oenology Program of Surry Community College. The 2008 vintage, with a bit more residual sugar, was good with Asian food. Suggested Food Pairings: Seafood pâté, grilled seafood sausages, seafood salad, chicken salad, scallop carpaccio; raw or steamed oysters or clams with lemon; grilled shrimp with olive oil, garlic and sea salt; flounder stuffed with crab meat; deviled crab; crab cakes; fried catfish with tartar sauce; goat cheese. Distributors: Surry Community College, Dobson, NC (does not ship). $10.00 2009 Childress Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Review Date - 9/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Winston-Salem, NC, native and NASCAR veteran Richard Childress took a major shine to wine during his years on the circuit. Not only has he built one of the three “showcase” wineries in North Carolina (the other two being Biltmore and Shelton Brothers), but also he infused the entire operation with his own passionate spirit and is (like Shelton) encouraging other North Carolinians to consider grape growing. He brought in New York winemaker Mark Friszolowski, who already is having a major influence not only in his adopted state, but also here in Georgia. While the winery has a fine range of reds, the Yadkin, with its cool climate, does wonderful white wines. This Sauvignon Blanc shows a pale yellow color and on the nose, delicate aromas offering a little grapefruit, a little melon, and some citrus zest. In the mouth, the wine presents a rich, round texture--perhaps the merest residual sugar--with ample fruit characters, now adding a little gooseberry to the mix and finishing with a note of sweet, freshly cut grass.. Good acidity closes the deal. Serve at 55ºF/13ºC in white wine glasses. Superior value. Suggested Food Pairings: Plain goat cheese or herb-enhanced goat cheese; pasta tossed with garlic/herb Boursin; scallops or halibut piccata (with sautéed with lemon and capers); cod or sea bass in Spanish salsa verde (olive oil, garlic and minced fresh herbs); as an aperitif with a soft cheese/and/herb spreadable cheese and crackers; hummus. Distributors: At the winery and shipped (order on the web site) $12.00 2008 Grassy Creek Vineyard & Winery Pinot Gris Review Date - 9/1/2010 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Founed in 2003, Grassy Creek is the work of two families--Derill and Lori Rice and Jim and Cynthia Douthit--who crafted the winery on a site known as Klondike Farm. In addition, the winery owns another vineyard, Holloway Vineyard, I Troutman, NC. Mostly vinifera grapes are planted, in addition to Chambourcin, a French-American red hybrid of mysterious parentage. This Pinot Gris is very successfully done. With just 12.5% alcohol, the wine shows a medium greenish gold color. Aromatic with hints of yellow fruits and a suggestion of wet hay, the wine delivers on the palate, showing complex yellow tropical fruit characters and the merest hint of bitter almond, as it if were done in a more Italian manner than French. Best at about 55ºF/13ºC. Out of stock now, the Barbera is excellent, and so is the Chambourcin. Suggested Food Pairings: Aperitif wine with light appetizers, such as aroncini (deep-fried rice/cheese balls); grilled seafood skewers; chicken salad in pastry; lightly curry-accented chicken and seafood; grilled scallops with Creole-style rémoulade sauce; fried catfish; steamed mild fish tossed with lemongrass and light dressing; shrimp with lemongrass or with garlic, olive oil and white wine; crab cakes and soft-shell crab; king crab legs with lemon butter; pasta with herbs, lemon and toasted pine nuts; Asian seafood dishes (but not with sweet-and-sour sauces). Distributors: At the winery; shipping to Georgia available (web site). $14.00 2007 Grove Winery & Vineyards Cabernet Franc Review Date - 9/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Located about seven miles northeast of Greensboro, these vineyards were planted in 1993. Owner, with his wife, Denise, Max Lloyd escaped the business world and its family-separating travel requirements and today styles himself a “grape farmer,” a term he seems to relish as a title. In addition to the Haw River Valley vineyard, Lloyd also owns a vineyard across the state line near Smith Mountain, VA, where he grows Norton and Cabernet Sauvignon. In North Carolina he grows Merlot, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo and one white--Traminette, which holds much promise for this region. Warm Haw River Valley is red wine country. This medium-bodied edition of Cabernet Franc reminds one of the versions found in Chinon, in the Loire Valley, France. Showing a bright cherry red color, the wine exhibits aromas and flavors of cranberry with a delicious fruit-driven finish. Oak is completely integrated, and tannins are soft and supple. Evolves well in the glass, gathering character in mid-palate. Bronze medal at the 2009 NC State Wine Competition. Serve about 60-65ºF;15-17ºC in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Max Lloyd says barbecue, and he’s right. Smoked pulled pork with a tomato-based barbecue sauce (but not thick and ketchup-y), roast or barbecued chicken; turkey; barbecued salmon (wild-caught); vegetarian stews made with caramelized root vegetables; rabbit (brine it first) grilled with red currant or cranberry jelly brushed on; roasted Cornish hen. Distributors: At the winery. $15.00 2007 Shadow Springs Vineyard Meritage Review Date - 9/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Chuck and Jamey Johnson took the name of their operation from a spring-fed creek that courses through the vineyard. On the 47-acre farm, 10.5 acres are planted to a variety of grape types, both classic and hybrids. This Meritage (and the Johnsons say Shadow Springs is a member of Meritage) is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. The wine spends two years in barrels. Showing a deep, dark, opaque purple red color, this dry full-bodied wine exhibits excellent fruit. Aromas hit on fresh dark fruits--blackcurrants and blackberries--with hints of cocoa powder. The palate exhibits fresh dark fruit characters, subtle tannins, and no excess sense of oak whatsoever. Fruit, acidity, oak and tannin all are in balance. The long, fruit-filled finish is most rewarding. This is a big wine, but its juiciness and its restraint serve it well. Enjoy it at cool room temperature, 60-65ºF/15-17ºF, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Very fine value (as are all the wines at Shadow Springs.) Suggested Food Pairings: Liver mousse; filet mignon; tournedos Rossini, steak Diane; prime rib; roast duck; venison chops with blackcurrant sauce; creamy blue cheeses (Fourme d’Ambert, e.g.); dark chocolate. Distributors: At the winery (does not ship). $20.00 2006 Yonah Mountain Vineyards Genesis Review Date - 9/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Bill and Jane Miller launched Yonah Mountain to produce classic varieties. With their winemaker, Joe Smith, who also makes wine for his Serenity Cellars label, the Millers are determined to keep production to no more than 5000 cases a year. The winery’s logo, a classic Cherokee bear fetish with a heart line, reflects the meaning of the word “yonah” in that language--bear. This blended red is 51% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Mourvèdre, all Georgia grown. Richly deserving the silver medal it took this year at Indy International, this full-bodied deep purple red wine is a showcase of classic fruit, all balanced and well structured. The aromas exhibit dark plums and spice, while the on palate plenty of dark fruit--including a suggestion of dried fig--chocolate and spice produce layers of flavors. Oak and fruit are completely integrated, and tannins are resolved and silky. Serve cooled to about 65ºF/17ºC in tall large-bowl glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled or roasted lamb with a red wine-lamb stock reduction; roast duck; prime rib; silky liver pâté; slow-roasted fresh ham with a spicy (but not hot) aromatic rub; furred game (would love to try this with Georgia wild boar); dark chocolate; mild, aged, firm cheeses. Distributors: At the winery and selected retail shops. $36.00 2008 Montaluce Winery & Estates Centurio Reserve Merlot Review Date - 9/1/2010 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Near Dahlonega, Montaluce (pronounced Mon-tah-LOO-chay) is one of Georgia’s most recently founded wineries, It is the vision of Atlanta-based Beecham Buildings (father and sons), Greenway Development and Harrison Design Assoc. Continuing the Italian theme, the winemaker, Stefano Salvini, comes from Bertinoro, (Emilia-Romagna), Italy. Montaluce’s first estate-grown grapes were crushed in the 2008 vintage, which produced this full-bodied dry red wine. Some 35 acres are planted to classic varieties; however, until they are fully mature, grapes will be sourced elsewhere. The Merlot for this wine came from David Harris' BlackStock Vineyards. This reserve Merlot exhibit’s a dark purple red color. Showing good extraction, the wine wines aromas initially focus on very forward dark fruit characters, plum and dark cherries, but it acquires a hint of brown baking spices at it opens in the glass. Supple tannins frame a good mouthful of fruit, and the lingering, clean finish continues the ample fruit characters. Serve at 65ºF/17ºC in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked pork loin; hangar or flat-iron steak cooked on a ridged cast-iron pan to caramelize the surface, blue-cheese drizzle; coarse-textured terrine; roast duck or other feathered game; buffalo steak; braised red meat dishes (short ribs); smoked beef ribs; blue cheese; goat cheese; dark chocolate. Distributors: Quality Wine & Spirits and at the winery (can ship within Georgia). $36.00 2008 Habersham Vineyards Mossy Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Review Date - 9/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Habersham Winery dates to 1983, when brothers Tom and Chuck Slick founded the enterprise. Already established, Mossy Creek Vineyard occupies a stunning rolling hill site in north Georgia, and came under Habersham ownership in 1994. Its mature vines are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, an it produces about 25 tons of grapes on eight acres. The maturity of the vines shows in this fruit, which yields a wine with a deep purple-red color. Full-bodied and showing good extraction, this is an elegant wine that’s still young yet exhibits soft tannins and good drinkability for the present moment, but will gain depth and complexity if well stored. The aromas, although still a bit closed, show sweet, juicy dark plum characters, while on the palate sweet dark fruits (plum, some blackberry) lead to a long finish. Delicious. I like it on the cool side, about 60ºF/15ºC, but certainly no more than 65º/17ºC in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Hangar steak grilled on a cast-iron ridged pan (so the surface caramelizes a bit), with blue cheese drizzle; sautéed chicken livers with applewood-smoked bacon and Madeira; prime rib; roast leg of lamp; roast chicken or duck; grilled Cornish hen brushed with melted blackberry jam thinned with some of the wine; firm, mature cheeses or creamy blues; dark chocolate. Distributors: Prestige Wine Wholesale and Northeast Wholesale and at the winery. $18.00 Still Pond Vineyard Muscadine NV Review Date - 9/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Muscadine is part of Southern viticultural heritage. It is Vitis rotundifolia (round leaf), although technically it belongs to a separate subgenus, Muscadinia. The fruit grows in loose clusters rather than in bunches. Muscadine has been shown to have extraordinarily high levels of healthful compounds. In the last quarter of the 16th century Sir Walter Raleigh may have discovered the vine, and it’s believed that some of his companions may have planted the “Mother Vine,“ which still lives today in North Carolina. There are some 300 different kinds of Muscadine, all tasting somewhat different from each other while operating within the same flavor framework. This one is made from Fry, and shows a medium deep, bright golden color. The aromas are classic “grapey” Muscadine, like a fresh berry, bursting with natural sweetness. On the palate the sweet ripe grape flavors bloom, showing dried apricot characters, and the finish lingers nicely. Quite a treat. Alcohol is a moderate 11.5%, with sugars running at 15º Brix. The sweetness and ripe fruit are in synch, and balance each other very well. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC in small tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: As an aperitif with creamy liver pâté; as dessert with mild creamy cheeses (very ripe Sweet Grass Dairy’s Greenhill or a creamy bleu); sweet potato or pumpkin pie, flan, roulade or dessert soufflé (woof!); buttermilk chess pie; coconut cake with an apricot layer; pound cake; grilled angel food cake with poached, chilled yellow stone fruit or pear. Distributors: Savannah Distributing and at the winery, in Arlington, GA (Southwest). $15.00 2009 Wolf Mountain Vineyards Plénitude Review Date - 9/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Although Wolf Mountain is known for growing red wine grapes, this winner is made from Chardonnay and Viognier grown on neighboring sites. Crisp, clean, and juicy, with a lush texture, the dry white wine shows a pale yellow color and was made entirely in stainless steel, ensuring vivid fruit characters, from the aromas to the palate. Clean, fresh white fruit with citrus zest inform the aromas. Fruit sweetness underlies flavors of fresh pear, Golden Delicious apple and citrus zest. Lively acidity creates a mouthwatering experience, balanced against the ample fruit. This has been a consistent pleasure through recent vintages, and 2009 does not disappoint. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Limited production. Soon to be presented at a James Beard Dinner in New York produced by Food 101. Suggested Food Pairings: Goat cheese; Waldorf salad; smoked pork banh mi with spicy mayonnaise; Asian dishes with seafood and chicken; chicken croquetas; as an aperitif with cocktail crab cakes; scallop carpaccio; mild fish baked in parchment paper with Asian seasonings; ceviche of bay scallops in lemon, fresh herbs and olive oil; cornmeal-crusted fried oysters or calamari with lemon aïoli. Distributors: Empire Distributors and at the winery. $15.00 2008 Crane Creek Vineyards Villard Noir Rosé Review Date - 9/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: A crossing of two once-popular French hybrids (Chancellor and Le Subereux), Villard Noir used to be grown in southwestern France and a bit in Bordeaux. Forbidden in France since 1977, the grape is not very widely planted even in this country. But at Crane Creek it seems to have found a niche. This medium-bodied example, which was made by allowing only limited juice-skin contact, shows a somewhat floral aroma, with suggestions of red fruits. Slightly spritzy, the wine exhibit’s a broad palate displaying good red fruit characters, from hints of watermelon to red raspberries. Silky texture, and enough acidity to help it go nicely with food. While normally, one prefers rosé quite cold, this one shows more character as it warms in the glass. Bronze medal at the 2010 San Francisco Examiner Wine Competition. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken wings (even moderately hot ones0; fajitas; spice-rubbed oven-roasted chicken or pork tenderloin; grilled red snapper; teriyaki skewers; frued chicken with a hint of spice in the coating; lamb ribs; barbecue. Distributors: At the winery. $14.00 2008 Westbend Viognier Review Date - 9/1/2010 Score - 95 Tasting Note: Viognier is becoming a major player From Virginia to the North Carolina, north Georgia wine-growing region. This Yadkin Valley pioneer set out its first vineyards in 1972, as Jack Kroustalis believed in the valley as a place for classic varieties, although early on the winery also produced excellent Seyval and Chambourcin. Robert Parker gave this operation high marks, for both its Seyval and Chambourcin. With New York winemaker Mark Terry, Lillian Kroustalis continues her husband’s vision. This supremely elegant example of Viognier sees no oak (the right decision for the grape in my view). As a result, one gets pure fruit flavors. Medium-bodied, with a pale yellow color, the wine shows spot on aromas for the grape, with floral yellow stone fruit characters. On the palate, the wine delivers a silky texture with well-integrated citrus-pear flavors. Mouthwatering, with a long, crisp finish, it’s a superb example of what Viognier can do. Gold medal at the NC State Fair. Superior value. Suggested Food Pairings: Lightly curried chicken or shrimp salad; grilled chicken-mango salad; Asian dishes with seafood or poultry (spicy but not wicked hot); butter-baked crumbed scallops or sea bass; crab-stuffed baked flounder; grilled apple-chicken sausages; roast pork tenderloin stuffed with apples and croutons; soft-shell crab sautéed with a little touch of curry in the dusting flour. Don’t laugh, but Viognier is great with collard greens and I’ve seen it do well with Carolina-style barbecue, but watch out for the vinegar in the sauce. Distributors: At the winery (can ship to Georgia). $15.00 2008 Biltmore Estate Wine Co. Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: North Carolina is the source of 89% of the Cabernet Sauvignon in this quite delicious example, with the rest coming from Sonoma Valley, California, along with the little bits of Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Franc (2%), Dry Creek Valley Syrah (1%) and Monterey Malbec (1%) that are blended in. The inky dark-cherry red color shows good extraction, and on the nose dark fruit aromas (black currant) mingle with hints of caramel (from American oak barrels). On the palate, fresh dark fruits--black raspberries, black currants, blackberries--.carry the day, with suggestions of dried herb. All components are well integrated, and the tannins are soft and fruit-suggestive. This one really likes cool temperatures and absolutely does not show its best when too warm. 58-62ºF/14-16ºC is what the winery suggests, and I agree. Even cooler temperatures are not bad. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken livers with country ham and Madeira on toast; roast duck; smoked beef ribs; grilled lamb steak; smoked beef brisket; steak; standing rib; meat pies; braised beef or buffalo short ribs with mashed potatoes when the weather gets cooler, but still cool down the wine. Distributors: From the winery (www.biltmore.com)* *Biltmore Estate is at United Distributors, but only those wines made from California-grown grapes. The wines made from North Carolina-grown grapes must be obtained at or from the winery. $18.00 2008 Red Rock Winery Reserve Malbec Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: A Gallo-associated winery, Red Rock sources from various parcels across California. Although total acreage isn’t huge, Malbec is widely grown in the United States, literally from Georgia to Idaho, Washington State, New York State and on to California. Between 1995 and 2003 Malbec plantings grew from 1000 acres in California to more than 7000 acres. This example is juicy, fruit-forward and possessed of soft, supple tannins, typical of the grape. Inky purple red in color, also typical of the grape, it presents an easy-to-like fruit profile in the aromas, focused on blackberries, loganberries, and black currants. Hints of spice, probably from a few other varieties blended in, add interest. On the palate, the black fruit profile is enhanced by good acidity. When the wine warms up, the sensation of alcohol becomes enhanced, so keep it cool for maximum enjoyment. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled ham steak; Carolina-style barbecue; meaty corn-flecked Brunswick stew; smoked beef ribs with chimichurri sauce or tomato-based mildly spicy barbecue sauce; smoked pork, red beans and rice with andouille sausage; steak, beef-filled empanadas; chicken in Pipián (a mildly spicy Mexican dish); Argentine matahambre (a cold rolled beef dish), peppered goat cheese; okra or zucchini baked in tomato sauce (in fact anything in tomato sauce). Distributors: Empire Distributing $12.00 2008 Ken Forrester Petit Pinotage Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: A cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, Pinotage is South Africa’s icon grape, although now it’s also grown in California (Lodi and Mendocino, most notably). Possessed of a somewhat negative reputation, Pinotage in its old style can be off-putting and medicinal, while a more modern style emphasizes fresh fruit and soft tannins. That’s the case with this example, which iconic South African winemaker Ken Forrester calls the “Petit” Pinotage for its fruity style. On the aromas you’ll find whiffs of plum-studded bread pudding or cake, while the palate presents a lovely juiciness with notes of plums and other dark fruits. Slight residual sugar (.6%) helps offset its somewhat high alcohol (14.5%). Loves the cool temperatures, such as around 60-65ºF;15-18ºC. Use a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. No oak. Suggested Food Pairings: Barbecue with lightly spicy (not spicy hot) medium-bodied tomato-based sauce; a South African braaii (meats, vegetables and/or fish over an open flame); boboti (with its touch of curry); Asian meat dishes; barbecued lamb or duck. Distributors: United Distributors $12.00 2008 Domaine Gayda Grenache Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Thriving in hot, dry climates, Grenache tends to be light in color, lacking in acidity, tannin and often is blended with other grape types. Its high sugar levels allow it to be used to make sweet red wines, such as Banyuls. In Australia it’s called into service in fortified wines. This example is quite deeply colored, suggesting perhaps the presence of other varieties, such as perhaps Syrah. The aroma is earthy, with a saddle/barnyard character. (Brettanomyces perhaps?--I don’t find it off-putting, however, although some consider it a fault no matter how much is there while others find it contributing interest and complexity. I stand with the latter crowd.) Flavors pick up rich, dark fruits characters, with brown spice notes for added interest. A slight alcohol burn emerges as the wine warms in the glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken livers lightly floured and sautéed with balsamic vinegar; Carolina barbecue; Brunswick stew; barbecue with mild tomato-based sauce; grilled ham steak; cold, thinly sliced steak; Caly Road Creamery “Camembert,” grilled sausages, beef or lamb steaks, smoked beef ribs; duck. Distributors: Continental Beverage $12.00 2008 Italo Cescon Pinot Nero I.G.T. Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Although one tends not to look to Italy for Pinot Nero, or Pinot Noir, the grape is grown there. Italian examples of Pinot Noir tend never to present the earthiness one finds in Burgundy nor the savory character one finds in Central Otago, New Zealand. Instead, one finds fruit, but not the fruit bomb versions one often finds in California. Much more restrained in fruit, Italian Pinot Noir is not the cherry Kool-Aid one also sometimes gets out of American Pinot Noir. But as demonstrated in this example, Italian Pinot Noir does present a lot of cherry--red cherry to be exact--character, from its lovely cherry-red color to its aromas, where it picks up a little measure of brown spice notes. Lovely balance, with good body, and with acid and alcohol (12.5%) right where they need to be, this is a versatile wine from a food-pairing standpoint. As the wine warms in the glass--from its ideal 65ºF/17ºC temperature--one sees nothing of alcohol even at the warmer temperature. The long finish is smooth; and lovely fruit tannins contribute their portion to its structure. Elegant, with a nice delicacy, the wine shows the fundamental character of Pinot Noir. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken livers and pancetta, with Dry Marsala to deglaze the pan; cured meats; roast or smoked chicken or Rock Cornish hen; grilled wild salmon; grilled lamb; grilled assorted vegetables; mild creamy cheeses (Caly Road Creamery, Roopville, GA, “Camembert.” Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $15.00 2009 Daniel Bouland Chiroubles Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: One of the 10 Cru Beaujolais, Chiroubles (she-rube) is often touted as the lightest of the lot, only to be drunk young. Well, throw out all that, because it will need revision after you’ve tasted this one. This producer is not widely known in the U.S., and when he is known it’s mostly for his old-vine Morgon (another of the 10 Crus). Relative to much Chiroubles, this one is rich, deeply colored (a deep purple red) and full bodied. Initially a bit closed, it clearly will benefit from aging, so you might decant it a while before pouring. The intense dark fruit flavors and ripe tannins belie the genre’s reputation for lightness and forward fruitiness. Grape type: Gamay noir à jus blanc (Black Gamay of white juice). Cool slightly down to about 65ºF/17ºC. Suggested Food Pairings: Flour-dusted chicken livers sautéed with pancetta and finished with Marsala or Madeira (can also use country ham); smoked beef ribs (pretty awesome), fried chicken (REALLY good). In cooler weather, do it with boeuf bourgignone, coq au vin and similar hefty dishes, but still serve it cool. Distributors: Unique World Wines $18.00 2008 Camille Cayran Secret de Campane Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: The Principality of Orange is in Vaucluse, in southeastern France. As a Roman colony, Orange benefited by having built within its domain numerous important edifices, including a theater and an arch. The modern city is dotted throughout by enough Roman ruins warrant its being designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.. Then there’s the wine. This blend of Grenache Noir (60%), Carignan (20%), Cinsault (10%), and Merlot (10%) is a medium-bodied dry red wine with a lovely medium dark-cherry red color. Aromas focus on aromatic brown spices intermingled with lively red fruits. On the palate, soft tannins and red fruit characters entice. Perfect for chilling, a little cold takes the edge of the sensation of alcohol you get in this wine as it warms up in the glass. Ten percent undergoes carbonic ( whole berry) maceration to enhance the fruit. Delicious and very food friendly. Likes the chill, so take it down to about 55ºF/13ºC. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken liver mousse; rillettes; roast pork tenderloin; fried chicken; grilled or smoked Cornish hen; grilled sausages; roast or smoked turkey, ratatouille or escalivada, pasta salad with smoked mozzarella, goat cheese, smoked beef brisket. Distributors: Continental Beverage $12.00 Shannon Vineyards Poor Robin Semi-Sweet Red Muscadine NV Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Located in Southeast Georgia, near Sylvania, Shannon Vineyards is one of the state’s largest producers of Muscadine grapes. In late 2008 it launched a winery, and makes several different styles of red and white Muscadine-based wines. This one is a semi-sweet Muscadine with all the classic characters you’d expect in the grape on the aromas. On the palate, sweet red fruit flavors are enhanced nicely by a bit of chill, bringing out a peppery note. The finish is long, sweet and clean. This is perfect for folks who are looking for a red wine that isn’t dry yet has enough balance and robust flavor to pair well with food. Suggested Food Pairings: Okra baked with slivered jalapeño peppers in tomato sauce; smoked chicken, ribs, pork chop. But while it’s ok with a tomato-based Georgia-style barbecue sauce, it really comes alive with honey-glazed Chinese barbecued ribs; they are just amazing with this wine. Also pepper steak; teriyaki; “General Tsu’s” chicken or pork; moo shu pork or vegetables; Chinese roast duck. Incredible with dark chocolate, about 60% cacao. Would love to try this with mole poblano. Make sangría using this wine, with tonic or sparkling water, some cut peaches and oranges; and a squeeze of lime. (Note: In the interest of full disclosure, I have done staff training on wine basics for Shannon Vineyards. But I felt that I should bring this wine to readers’ attention. In this heat, we need all the fun we can muster.) Distributors: From the winery (www.shannonvineyards.com) and at its store in Savannah. (31 W. Congress St.). $10.00 2009 Jam Jar Sweet Shiraz Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 86 Tasting Note: When I first tasted this wine, I thought the sweetness a bit off-putting. Yet the wine was balanced (unlike a previous attempt at this sort of thing from the same importer). I’ve got several friends who prefer sweet reds, and had two of them try this wine. They loved it. So figuring there will be others out there who might find it just the ticket, I decided to include it. Besides, it’s a specifically chillable red. Syrah, or Shiraz as it’s known in South Africa and Australia, is a Rhône original in all likelihood (assertions about the Middle East notwithstanding). This has the deep, inky black red color you’d expect from a warm-climate Shiraz or Syrah, The nose is rather shy at first, revealing little of the fruit characters one might expect, but time in the glass gives them an opportunity to make an appearance, albeit a fleeting one, focused on sweet dark fruit characters. On the palate, there’s more happening: Sweet dark blackberry builds to a mid-palate crescendo that relies substantially on the sweetness for its impact. The finish holds on to the same dark fruit characters. A slight chill really is essential, around 65ºF;17ºC, Suggested Food Pairings: Brunswick stew; Asian fare; game with piquant sauces; Mexican pollo en pipián; dark chocolate. Another good bet with mole poblano. Distributors: National Distributing $13.00 2008 Lenotti Bardolino Classico D. O. C. Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 89 Tasting Note: From the hilly shores of eastern Lake Garda surrounding several towns, among them the pretty town of Bardolino (where I found the best chocolate gelato I’ve ever tasted). The grapes are Corvina (50%), Rondinella (40%) and Molinara (10%). This light-bodied dry red wine is one of the region’s delights, and you’ll find it in humble as well as refined circumstances. I remember in a truck stop just outside of Cremona on the Po River in northern Italy releasing some of it into my carafe at the end of a self-service line. Good, too. Bardolino (the wine) is meant to be drunk young and cool, so do not cellar even the best of them. This one has a light, aromatic presence, a little reminiscent of cinnamon hearts and rose petals. On the palate, it is similar light, with lovely red cherry characters and a charming delicacy. The long, clean finish sets up the palate for the next sip. Really loves to be cool, around 60ºF/15-16ºC. Suggested Food Pairings: Sautéed chicken livers, mild, creamy cheeses (I love this with the Caly Road Creamery “Camembert,” from Roopville, GA); burrata; risotto Mantecato (with caramelized onions and good Balsamic), smoked turkey, Cornish hen and chicken; ham salad; prosciutto; panini; wraps with ham or chicken; grilled veal chop. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $13.00 2007 La Mormoraia Chianti Colli Senesi D. O. C. G. Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: The Colli Senesi is the part of Tuscany around Siena, capital of the eponymous province. These Chiantis tend to be lighter in body than others and benefit from being lightly chilled. Made from Sangiovese and other permitted red grape varieties (such as Canaiolo and Colorino, perhaps, the latter for its color), This example shows a lovely ruby red color, Aromas broadcast fresh ripe tree fruits such as plums, a touch of red currant, and ample brown baking spices. On the palate, the wine shows soft tannins, a rich, ripe red fruit core, and good acidity. After I decided I liked it best at around 62ºF/16ºC, I noticed the back label advocated 16-18ºC, or 61-64./ Use a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked chicken; roast turkey; panini; Mexican tortas; muffaletta; grilled hangar steak and sausages; salamis and cured meats; grilled ham steak; roast pork loin or tenderloin; duck; pasta with meat sauces; pizza; mild, aged cheeses; grilled fish (if not too oily). Very versatile. Distributors: Vinifera $18.00 2008 Basico Rojo Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Ok, so we’ll forget that the correct term on this bottle ought to be “Tinto” for red wine. Yes, “rojo” does mean red, but when you’re referring to wine, “tinto” is the word to use to mean “red wine” specifically. Blended, bottled and imported by Paul Sapin, a French company with its US office in Atlanta, the wine is made from grapes grown in La Mancha, Spain’s largest winegrowing region, southeast of Madrid, Básico is a line of wines that represent value. The red is a 50-50 blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. Its deep, youthful purple red color appeals to the eye, while aromas engage with fresh dark fruits followed in a short while by a lovely rose petal note. Sweet dark fruits--plums, black currants--are forward on the palate, but not over-the-top. Clean, round, soft tannins, and possessed of a fine, clean, fruit-filled finish, Basico red is one of the best values seen in a long time. Suggested Food Pairings: Pastas with meat; meat salads; grilled lamb with tomato-based barbecue sauce that has some spice (but not heat); grilled spicy sausages, such as linguiça; grilled ham steak; burgers; slow-smoked pork country-style ribs; steak; bean (legume) dishes; mild, rich, slightly aged cheeses. Distributors: Prime $8.00 2008 Raffaldini Sangiovese Review Date - 8/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Sangiovese is an Italian grape associated with Chianti and its region, Tuscany. It produces light-colored, medium-bodied wines that are perfevt for chilling. Sangiovese responds to individiual terroirs and yields differently flavored wines depending on where it’s grown. For an interesting comparison, see the La Mormoraia Colli Senesi Chianti below. Dating to 1348 in Mantua, Lombardi, Italy, the Raffaldini family lives on a farm near Verona where the classical poet Virgil spent his young years. Choosing this part of North Carolina, they planted a range of varieties in the Swan Creek area of the Yadkin Valley (an AVA within an AVA). This light- to medium-bodied dry red wine presents a limpid garnet red color, Floral, plum and brown spice characters address the aromas, while on the palate red fruits--red cherry, red currant and plum--and spice linger well beyond the first sip. Suggested Food Pairings: Prosciutto, grilled veggies with olive oil and garlic, pasta salad with smoked mozzarella; roast or smoked turkey and dchicken; grilled fish, especially trout or striped bass; fried catfish; fried chicken; panini; wraps; chicken livers grilled on rosemary skewers. Great with fried chicken. Distributors: From the winery (www.raffaldinni.com). $15.00 Jacques Pelvas Brut Rosé NV Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Barbecue and bubbles? Oh you bet. The high acidity of sparkling wine goes a long way toward making this match work, especially if it’s a brut rosé. What makes this example especially appropriate, besides its phenomenal price, is the beautiful quality of the fruit, 100% Grenache. Medium-bodied, the wine shows a lovely pale pink color. The aromas are a pile of red fruits, but especially strawberries and raspberries. Refreshing acidity kick-starts the fruit and acts as a palate cleanser. The brisk, moderately intense good fruit flavors are focused on the red fruit profile. A lovely creamy mousse is quite persistent, You will want to sip it and sip it and sip it some more, its freshness is that delightful... Moderate alcohol, too, at 11.5%. And what a value. Serve well chilled, especially in this heat, around 45ºF/7ºC, and if you don’t want to use flutes, use a tulip-shaped white wine glass or the Riedel rosé glass, which is a little taller than a white wine glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked chicken, Cornish hen, or turkey; smoked pork ribs with a tomato-mustard-vinegar sauce; Carolina-style ‘cue with a tomato-vinegar-pepper sauce; ribs with a Zinfandel-based sauce glaze; Asian barbecues, barbecued salmon. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $12.00 2008 Seven Sisters Rosé of Pinotage “Tweena” Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: There are, literally, seven sisters in the Brutus family, whose members hail from a small fishing village on the western coast of South Africa. Although they have a baby brother, the sisters are the driving force behind this project. Each wine is named for one of them. This off-dry rosé is made entirely of Pinotage. Its beautiful bright pink color just begs for sipping. Medium-bodied and slightly off-dry, the wine reveals aromas of fresh red fruits, strawberry, red currants, raspberries. On the palate the same flavors inform the palate’s profile, and the finish is sweet but with good acidity, refreshing. Easy to drink, it’s much better than most white Zins or “blush” wines. Serve at cool temperatures, about 55ºF/13ºC in a tulip-shaped rosé wine glass or white wine glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked Cornish hen (tasted at Michon in College Park), smoked turkey, ribs, pulled pork. The key is well-seasoned meat, as this wine does not like most barbecue sauces. Also try with Asian barbecue, especially Chinese or Korean. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $13.00 2007 Cupcake Vineyards Merlot Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: CupCake Vineyard gathers its wines from sources around the world. For this full-bodied dry red wine with a deep purple-red color, the source is California’s Central Coast. Ripe, rich sweet fruit flavors--black currant and black raspberry--with touches of chocolate shape the aromas and dress out the palate. Intensely flavored but not over-the-top, the wine shows supple, juicy tannins and a good bit of acidity. Balance is key, and this one fits the mold. There’s a lovely roasted coffee note in the finish. Nice depth of flavor and all is well knit. A little heat in the finish would be tempered by controlling the serving temperature, about 60-65ºF;15-17ºC, so that it suppresses the sensation of alcohol. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked lamb barbecue (KC Pit, Sandy Springs) with a tempered tomato-based sauce, such as Gates’ from Kansas City; smoked pork or beef ribs; smoked chicken; Mexican barbacoa with black beans and tomatillo salsa; and we’d bet on it with smoked duck. Sauces should be mild tomato based; doesn’t like tamarind. Would skip heavy, thick, sweet tomato-based sauces (don’t like those much anyway, so nothing lost). Other stuff: Chili, baked beans with crumbly country sausage; quite dark chocolate. Distributors: National Distributing Co. $13.00 2008 Bodegas Atamisque Catalpa Malbec Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: We can’t deal with barbecue without mentioning the Argentine version of barbecue, the asado. Malbec is what you reach for to pair with beef-based barbecue, including the Texas stuff, as one might expect, given its country of origin. Deep purple red in color, this Malbec emits a violet-scented perfume, with hints of fresh and dried dark fruits. Full-bodied (but with soft tannins), the wine reads a mite hot in the finish, as one might expect with a 14.2% alcohol reading. Cooling it down to about 60-65ºF/15-17ºC makes a big difference. The grapes come from a 70-year-old vineyard that sits at more than 4,500 feet above sea level. Forty percent spends time in French oak, while the balance matures in stainless steel. This wine is available at J/s Beverage Depot in Roswell. To cook the beef ribs, use indirect heat and cook very slowly, leaving them medium rare. Suggested Food Pairings: Short-rib asado with chimichurri (olive oil, lemon juice or white wine vinegar, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper) is heavenly with this wine. Other sauces on beef: Community BBQ’s sweet sauce; KC Pit’s medium-bodied tomato-based sauce; barbecued meat loaf, smoked duck with fig sauce (Rolling Bones--yum!); smoked mild sausage; barbecued lamb ribs (KC Pit). Maybe grilled sweetbreads (a classic part of the asado). Would like to try this with Kentucky’s mutton barbecue. Distributors: New World Wines $13.00 2006 M'hudi Pinotage Stellenbosch Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: A crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault developed in South Africa about 100 years ago, Pintage is one a terrific choice with barbecue. This medium-bodied dry red wine shows a dark, almost inky purple red color. Aromatic with sexy, spicy dark fruit emerging from the glass, the wine’s dark fruit flavors exhibit hints of black cherry and brown spice notes. Very easy tannins support the fruit. Nothing of the medicinal or “band-aid” character often associated with Pinotage mars this experience. M’hudi derives from a Setswana word, mohudi, meaning harvester. The winery is owned by a black family who despite no culture of wine in their personal past, became winegrowers and wine makers. This Pinotage keeps well over a couple of days if kept cool, so should cellar well for another few years. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65ºF/17ºC. Suggested Food Pairings: Ribs with a full-bodied slightly sweet tomato-based sauce (to my surprise), tasted at Michon in College Park, smoked Cornish game hen, duck or chicken; smoked mild sausages; baked beans; or, to go all out South African, barbecued ox tails. Or do an authentic South African braai--meats and sausages--complete with pap (grits would be a good substitute), salads and sorbet for dessert. Distributors: Bacco Fine Wine $18.00 2006 Il Palagetto Chianti Colli Senesi D.O.C.G. Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Blending Sangiovese (90%) with Merlot (5%) and Colorino (5%), this medium-bodied dry red wine has a good affinity for smoked foods. Fresh, intense fruit focused on cherries defines the aromas, with suggestions of earth and just a hint of classic iodine. On the palate, fruit flavors pick up brown spice and hints of roasted coffee. Tannins are supple and refined, and the finish is clean and long. 14% alcohol. The wine is aged 12 months in oak barrels, and a further three months in bottle. Important to serve at 60-65ºF/15-17ºC in generous tulip-shaped glasses. Good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked beef or pork ribs; smoked chicken or Cornish game hen; smoked duck; smoked rack of lamb. Use a medium-bodied tomato-based sauce with restrained acidity, some pepper and no heat (The Butcher’s Market, Woodstock). Other stuff: grilled hangar steak; smoked mild sausages. Distributors: Grapefields $18.00 2008 Daniel Gehrs Gewürztraminer Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Gewürztraminer is a grape that may be difficult to pronounce but that is so easy to enjoy once you get a handle on it. This medium-bodied slightly off-dry example, with a medium-pale golden straw color, presents the floral and lichee nut characters in the aromas that one expects with this grape with added notes of orange marmalade as the wine opens in the glass. On the palate, the orange marmalade character continues, adding other citrus notes (kumquat) and just the slightest touch of the taste (but not the sweetness) of honey. Residual sugar is close to the dry threshold for most tasters, and the finish is dry and clean. The good acidity makes it a perfect food wine for many purposes. This wine has some aging potential, if well cellared, and should develop further with time. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in tulip-shaped white-wine glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Eastern Carolina-style barbecue, chopped with a vinegar-based sauce (Community BBQ or Maddy‘s--both in Decatur); barbecued chicken; smoked turkey. Other stuff: curried potato salad; curried chicken salad; grilled shellfish, Asian fare of all sorts, but especially Indian and Thai. Distributors: Prime Distributors $17.00 2007 Clos Lachance Buff-Bellied Zinfandel Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: “Zinfandel” is the pat answer for what wine to pair with Southern barbecue. But that’s a minefield. Much Zinfandel is high in alcohol, and that will bust it with the spices of barbecue, especially if there’s any heat to the rub. Instead, go for a more balanced example, such as this one with an alcohol of 13.5. This nicely balanced edition comes from 18-year-old vines. Typical of a cooler climate growing region, the wine is more elegant in style than most warm- or hot-climate Zins as the cooler climate allows for more hang time, slower development, better acidity and all that good stuff. Showing a lovely purple red, this medium-bodied dry red wine is outstanding with food Complexity is the name of this game, with aromas that suggest cocoa (also on the palate), aromatic brown spices (allspice), anise, and rich dark fruits. On the palate, dark fruits and a fine acid thread flow into a long, mouthwatering finish. The acidity may seem high to some, but it will come in handy for barbecue pairing. Mostly done in new and used American oak (but some French also), the wine doesn’t yield to the wood. Keep it cool to serve, around 60-65ºF/15-17ºC. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked chicken (Community BBQ), with either of its two sauces; spice-rubbed smoked pork ribs; chopped pork ok (Maddy’s), smoked duck or lamb; smoked turkey; game birds. Splendid with spicy (not hot) baked beans. Nix the Brunswick stew. Try with Santa Maria style beef (sirloin tip seasoned with salt, pepper and garlic salt) barbecue, complete with pinquito beans, salsa, grilled French bread and salad even if you can‘t get the traditional red oak over which it‘s typically cooked. Distributors: Prestige Wine Wholesale $18.00 2008 Peirano Estate Vineyards Rosé of Cabernet Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Rosé and barbecue are a classical pairing. But the more robust versions are what do best with barbecue, leaving the more delicate Tavels for another purpose. This example is perfect: The deep, almost light red color for some takes it out of the rosé department, as it gets closer to a light red wine. Aromas pick up red raspberries and brown spices, while on the palate, a lushness of texture and flavors of strawberries and red currants bring the whole package together. Beautiful, intense fruit flavors. Great solitary sipper, too, and a fine value. A balanced piece of work. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Chill to about 55ºF/13ºC and serve in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Chopped pork with a light tomato-vinegar sauce (Maddy’s); pulled pork with mild tomato-based sauce (Rolling Bones); baked beans; Brunswick stew (Rolling Bones) with tomatoes and corn, period; barbecue chicken (Community BBQ). Not good for thick, heavy tomato-based sauces, Midwest style. Distributors: Continental Beverage $11.00 2007 Oak Ridge Vineyards Robert Reynolds “Becky’s Block” Viognier Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Pure serendipity caused me to discover pairing Viognier--at least the more aromatic, exotic and flowery Ameican style--with Carolina-style barbecue. That happened at Horseradish Grill, which does a good job of Carolina ‘cue, during a visit with a representative from Jepson Winery. Carolina-style barbecue steers clear of thick, red, tomato-based sauces, and hews to a more fundamentalist line of light-bodied sauce with vinegar, perhaps some tomato and pepper on chopped pork. So to go with it you need a wine that has a lot of its own power and character. This example, with its medium gold color, is just slightly off dry, useful for balancing against the vinegar. Aromas capture the peach/lichee nut character of the grape, while on the palate, generous fruit flavors suggest peach and brown spices. Viognier likes exotic foods, so keep this one on file for Asian fare. Serve slightly chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in white wine glasses: Very fine value. Suggested Food Pairings: Carolina-style barbecue (chopped and served with a tomato-vinegar-pepper sauce--such as Maddy‘s in Decatur). Also barbecued chicken, smoked turkey, collard greens (believe me!). Doesn’t like a lot of char, so Carolina-style finely chopped pork is perfect. Distributors: Big Boat Wine Co. $13.00 2007 Heron Wines Sexto Red Wine Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Spanish wines generally are terrific choices for Southern barbecue, but especially beef. Think Texas cooking, with its bold flavors. From Heron Wines, this wine--its name means “sixth”--is a blend of six grapes, and the name is inspired by the discovery, according to winemaker Lely Heron, that the addition of a sixth grape made all the difference. That sixth grape, a cousin of Garnacha or Grenache, is known as Lledoner Pelut Noir or Garnacha Peludo (6%). The base is Garnacha (33%), Cariñena or Carignan (30%); Tempranillo (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (6%) and Syrah (5%). In addition, the Garnacha vines are 30 years old, while others are even more mature, some as much as 60 years old. Deep purple red in color, Sexto exhibits aromas of fresh dark fruits, some earthiness and a substantial brown spice impression, all of which carry through to the palate. Rich, spicy, complex and satisfying, the wine offers supple tannins that make this singularly consumer friendly. Serve at cool room temperature, about 60-65ºF/17ºC, in large tulip-shaped glasses. If you find the 2005 edition out there, that works well, too. Suggested Food Pairings: Slow-smoked beef ribs; brisket with Kansas City-style barbecue sauce; Argentine-style asado with short ribs; smoked pork chops. Other stuff: Baked beans; steak; braised short ribs; barbecued oxtails; braised shanks. Distributors: Grapefields $15.00 2004 Di Stefano Winery “Donna Maria” Red Wine Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Although typically it’s wise to avoid high-alcohol wines with barbecue, here comes an exception. Largely because it’s built on Syrah, which is a very barbecue-friendly grape, and shows good fruit and soft tannins, this wine does splendidly with barbecue. Full-bodied, with a deep opaque, inky dark red color, the wine shows aromas of rich, dark fresh and dried fruits. Inspired by traditional Rhône Valley winemaking, the wine benefits from some Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier, giving the nose and the palate plenty to enjoy. It exudes complexity, with layers of flavor running from vanilla and dark chocolate to dried fruits (fig) and the classic black pepper of Syrah. Decanting this wine is essential at this point, as despite its age, it’s still a youngster. Power, intensity and balance all intersect, never mind its 15.1% alcohol (numbers don’t tell the whole story). Not cheap, but who says barbecue doesn’t deserve the best? Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked duck with fig sauce, a preparation that hs ancient Roman roots, (Rolling Bones); pulled pork with mild tomato-vinegar sauce (Rolling Bones); lamb barbecue with mild tomato-based vinegar sauce; lamb barbecue (KC Pit in Sandy Springs); barbecued chicken; baked beans of all sorts. Distributors: Artisan Vines $24.00 2006 Argyros Atlantis Red Review Date - 7/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Not all Santorini is white. Here’s a red one! Founded in 1903, Argyros is at once an established operation yet one that looks to contemporary standards of quality as well. This delectable, full-bodied dry red wine with a deep purple red color is composed of Mandilaria (90%) and Mavrotragano (10%), both native varieties. Lively fruit shapes the aromas, capturing some red fruit characters but also black currant and black raspberry. A note of sweet, curing tobacco adds interest. On the palate, delectable black fruit flavors include black plums and a hint of licorice. A very long, fruit-driven finish holds interest and keeps the pleasure factor going. Supple, juicy tannins add structure. Moderate aging (6 months) in French oak, but the fruit runs this show. This is a terrific barbecue wine. Cool serving temperatures are very important. Also moderate alcohol: 12.5%. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked ribs (Community BBQ) with its slightly sweet tomato-based barbecue sauce; lamb barbecue; pulled pork. Didn’t care for it with smoked chicken. Other goodies: slightly spicy (but not hot) baked beans; moussaka; Brunswick stew; barbecued oxtails; barbecued meatloaf. Distributors: United Distributors $18.00 2008 Jankris Winery Ben Hogan Tribute Series Chardonnay Review Date - 6/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: With JanKris’ winemaker Australian Chris Cameron, Callaway Golf Company, which owns the Ben Hogan brand, developed this newcomer to the wine-cum-golf brands that now are associated with many still-living golf greats (such as Arnie Palmer, Ernie Els and David Frost, both from South Africa; and Greg Norman from Australia, among others). Now comes Ben Hogan, a great golf figure of the past. The Tribute Series--there’s the even more limited Collectors’ Series--focused on the basic varietals. Paso Robles may seem an unusually warm spot for Chardonnay, but I have seen some singular examples from the region. This is one of them, although its price is a bit steep, but only 300 cases are made. Plus, it’s delicious. The medium-bodied dry white wine shows a lovely medium straw color. Aromas of melon and tropical fruits--a touch of pineapple--greet the nose. The palate incorporates tropical fruits with just a touch of oak, which operates appropriately as a grace note, but still more apparent than in the above example. Fruit and oak are well integrated, and acidity is brisk. This took a silver medal at the 2009 Coastal Wine Competition, at which I judged. Serve at 55ºF/13ºC in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Foods: Not so much with shellfish (although un-sauced crab cakes were pretty good with it) as the oak doesn’t do well with shellfish. But fin fish with various treatments, yes. Smoked whitefish (the salt doesn’t bother this one as much as it does the Dr. Frank); fish pie; creamy fish dishes; baked chicken, seafood lasagna (made mostly with fish). Big Boat Wine Co. $27.00 2007 Eberle Sangiovese Review Date - 6/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Now take that same piece of mildly spicy pan-grilled Italian sausage we put with rosé above and bake it on a bed of tomato sauce. That rosé almost disappears in the presence of cooked tomato. It’s an acid issue. The tomato sauce has too much acid vis-à-vis the acidity (5.5) of the rosé, so the wonderful berry characters almost completely disappear in its company. Instead, go to a Sangiovese, in this case a Cal-Ital. Reds from Paso Robles tend to be very extracted, and this one is, too, but still maintains its balance. Although the alcohol is hefty at 15.5%, the heat is moderate and will be further tempered by serving the wine at cellar temperature. On the nose red cherry and spice delineate the wine’s character, while the palate enjoys concentrated, extracted, spicy red fruit flavors. Really good acidity (.71) lets the wine grapple with the acids in the cooked tomato and propels the flavors through the long, fruit-filled finish. Serve at 60ºF/15ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled mild Italian sausage or mild linguiça in tomato sauce with peppers and onions over pasta or as a sandwich; braised pork shanks with baked Japanese sweet potatoes; pizza with tomato sauce; roasted vegetables; grilled duck; grilled or roasted Cornish hen. Note: Didn’t like this with the gamy character of lamb. Distributors: Prime Distributors $25.00 2009 Kemblefield Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc "The Vista" Review Date - 6/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Having worked a lengthy tenure at Ravenswood, John Kemble is a Zinfandel specialist, so he brought cuttings with him to New Zealand when he decided to emigrate there. Although he does make Sauvignon Blanc from Hawke’s Bay, where the winery is located, this Sauvignon Blanc is from Marlborough, on the northeast tip of the South Island (Hawke’s Bay is on the southeast top of the North Island). Marlborough produces most of New Zealand’s Sauvignon Blanc. Medium-bodied and exhibiting a bright pale straw color, this dry white wine presents aromas of gooseberry and a hint of tomato vine--classic characters for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. On the palate, tropical fruit flavors--a medley of grapefruit, passion fruit, star fruit,--identify this Sauvignon Blanc as from New Zealand. Yet this example is not so aggressively grapefruity as some from New Zealand. Serve at cool temperatures, 55ºF/13ºC, to preserve the fruit flavors. Use a tall tulip-shaped white wine glass. At Total Wine. Foods: Steamed head-on shrimp (forget the cocktail sauce); oysters with lemon; grilled shrimp, scallops or mild, firm fish with grilled lemon; salt-and-pepper calamari or shrimp; pork- , chicken- or shrimp-filled dumplings with Ponzu dipping sauce; egg foo yung; peanut chicken. This is excellent with all manner of Asian fish, seafood and chicken dishes, especially peanut chicken, Thai and Vietnamese fare. Quality Wine & Spirits $10.00 2009 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s most widely planted grape type. Coming from Vouvray in the Loire Valley, France, Chenin Blanc produces age-worthy wines of great character. This off-dry white wine shows medium yellow color with greenish tones. A mélange of tropical and exotic fruit characters greets the nose, including pineapple, melon, and lime. The palate enjoys the same fruit flavors, with good acidity providing a mouthwatering experience and a long, clean finish. Brief oak contact enhances complexity, but doesn’t overwhelm fruit. A clever move: some late harvest Chenin Blanc was blended in, adding richness. Could use decanting, for about 20 minutes, before being served, as it really develops with exposure to air. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. The 2008 is still available in this market. Foods: Although the back label says “grilled fish,” I found it worked better with baked, poached or steamed fish. Steamed king crab legs with drawn butter and a squeeze of Meyer lemon (any lemon will do, but the unique taste of Meyer lemons is special); butter-baked bay scallops and mild fish such as fresh cod with garlic, herbs and lemon; baked flounder stuffed with crabmeat; crab cakes; steamed mussels in white wine, garlic and herbs; parchment-steamed fish with fresh herbs, olive oil and minced garlic. National Distributing $13.00 Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV Review Date - 6/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: The crisp, clean, high-acid character of a good Champagne or sparkling wine made in the traditional method is outstanding with dishes that offer either richness or substantial acidity. The acidity of Champagne/sparkling wine can cut through the richness of a dish, while the good acidity will refresh the palate if acid is a component of the dish. This example shows a lovely pale yellow color, pours a good mousse, then follows with good threads of tiny bubbles. Aromas suggest yeastiness, then fresh citrus and yellow stone fruits. Melon, pear and Asian pear apple set the tone for what the palate perceives. Crisp rather than rich; elegant, complex, with clean fresh-fruit characters, this is a terrific all-purpose Champagne. Serve Champagnes in either flutes or now the more preferred tulip-shaped white wine glasses at about 55ºF/13ºC. Foods: Great as an aperitif all by itself. Grill-seared sashimi-grade tuna sliced thin on cucumber rounds dressed with light sesame oil, soy, ginger and mirin; yakitori; pickled shrimp or stone crab claws; baked scallops with lemon aïoli; crab cakes; King crab claws with drawn lemon butter, raw or baked oysters with lemon; lobster, smoked salmon. National Distributing Co. $55.00 2008 Lucien Albrecht Riesling Reserve Review Date - 6/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Every so-called wine professional out there who continues to tell customers that all Riesling is sweet needs to taste this one. Got into this one big time with a woman at a tasting who told her companion the above falsehood and when challenged countered with how long she had been a bartender. Whatever. Still wrong. Here’s the proof. This bone-dry example shows a lovely pale straw color. The aromas suggest floral notes, rather like a perfumed warm evening, while the palate enjoys melon and white fruit flavors, great acidity, and abundant minerality. A clean, long, acid-backed finish is mouthwatering and delectable. So elegant. A classic, dry, Alsace Riesling, it’s best served slightly chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Riesling in the 19th century cost more than Bordeaux. How ‘bout that? Foods: All manner of shellfish and fish, including grilled fish with tartar sauce; butter-poached shellfish (scallops), fresh oysters or clams with lemon; baked mild white fish (fresh cod, halibut, sheepshead), fried catfish with tartar sauce; crab-stuffed flounder baked with butter; poached, chilled chicken with mustard mayonnaise; smoked pork chop grilled with whole-grain mustard; mild, rich, creamy cheeses. Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $19.00 2007 Dr. Konstantin Frank Chardonnay Barrel-Fermented Review Date - 6/1/2010 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Two Russians have contributed so much to American winemaking that statues ought to be raised in their honor in the public square. One, whose influence is largely in California, is André Tchelistcheff. The other, his influence chiefly on the east coast, was Dr. Konstantin Frank. Only a few years older, Frank had earned a doctorate in viticulture from the University of Odessa (Russia, not Texas), with a thesis on growing Vitis vinifera in cold climates. In the U.S. from 1951, he opposed hybrid grapes, preferring the classic varieties, and proved it could be done in cold New York. Among them Chardonnay. This example is one of the best barrel-fermented (albeit partly) American Chardonnays I’ve run across. Aromas of lime flowers and zest greet the nose, while on the palate fresh citrus flavors and fresh apricot meld gracefully with a hint of oaky nuttiness on the finish. Just delightful. Balanced with delectable acidity, this is the way Chardonnay works when it goes well with food. Moderate alcohol, just 12.5%. Serve at cool temperatures, but not over-chilled, such as 55ºF/13ºC, in a tulip-shaped white wine glass. Foods: Raw oysters with lemon; crab cakes, no sauce; crab-stuffed flounder baked in butter, fresh minced herbs; grilled shrimp with Creole-style rémoulade (doesn’t like tartar sauce very much); fish cakes or fritters; poached or baked mild fish, such as fresh cod, tilapia, flounder or hake, sautéed scallops. Bacco Fine Wine $16.00 2008 Domaine de la Perriere Sancerre Review Date - 6/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Grill the same mild fish and seafood that we baked above, and you’ll find Chenin Blanc can’t compete with the smoky taste of the grill that now imbues the seafood. But the flinty minerality of a Sancerre (made from Sauvignon Blanc) is a perfect match with that flavor. The wine’s bright medium-deep straw color pleases the eye while the aromas convey fine gooseberry characters. I know this isn’t a commonly found fruit these days, but they are in season from May to August, and most commonly in June. I have seen them in Atlanta in Publix and in specialty markets. One whiff will confirm the descriptor as being spot on. On the palate, fine, well-developed fruit flavors extend the bouquet. The texture is silky, also supporting the pairing with tender, silky-textured fish and seafood. Good acidity, cutting through any butter, and that fine, stony minerality make this a winner. Stainless steel. Serve at cool temperatures, about 55ºF/13ºC, in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Foods: Fish and seafood grilled over wood; chicken breast stuffed with herbed goat cheese and baked; roasted oysters, wood-roasted whole fish; grilled halloumi or queso fresco with olive oil, lemon and thyme; also good with goat cheese but don’t grill this one. Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $22.00 2006 Villa Medoro Montepulciano d'Abruzzo D.O.C. Review Date - 6/1/2010 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Montepulciano (the grape type) is associated with Abruzzo, a region of Italy that sits along the Adriatic, on Italy’s eastern coast. Do not confuse this with Vino Nobile di Mntepulciano, which is made from Sangiovese and other grape types, and is associated with a town named Montepulciano, not a grape. Closed, tight and unyielding when first opened, the wine absolutely must be decanted for about an hour. Then look out! It‘s also best served cool, about 60ºF/15ºC. Dark, opaque purple red, this dry red wine develops an aroma of plum, spice and earth. To sniff or to sip? Either is delightful. On the palate, red cherry, plums and spice vie for attention. The long fruit-filled finish adds to the pleasure. Tannins are bold but juicy, not aggressive. Use a tall, tapered glass with a generous opening to take advantage of this lovely, complex aroma. Hard to stop sipping this one. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked meats: Texas-style smoked beef brisket, smoked beef ribs; smoked spice-rubbed country-style pork ribs (3 Beer spice rub); grilled, roasted or fried chicken; smoked duck, grilled turkey or other feathered (or furred) game; lasagna; chicken or rabbit cacciatore (tomato and mushrooms); and don’t forget the dark chocolate. Yum. Distributors: Vinifera $20.00 2008 Domaine Virginie La Grange Viognier Review Date - 6/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: I’ve rarely liked Viognier that’s seen any oak. And new oak at that. Here is an exception, proving once again that a winemaker doesn’t have to kill the fruit flavors of a given wine just because it was vinified and aged in oak. And proving that great fruit will, with bottle age, meld with oak and produce a tightly integrated whole. Seamless. That’s what you get in this example. Somewhat closed at first, this dry white wine with a lovely golden straw color exhibit’s the floral (honeysuckle) aromas one expects in this grape. Unlike its often more voluptuous American cousins, this one is restrained in fruit and elegant, making it a likely companion with a broader range of dishes. The blend of yellow and white stone fruit characters one finds also suggested on the nose lead straight to the palate. The finish is long, clean, sturdy and satisfying. Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60ºF/13-15ºF. Foods: Grilled scallops and mild, firm fish; poached fish dishes, such as quenelles de brochet (poached pike dumplings--a French fish classic that may be made with any mild white fish); simple crab or lobster cake, no sauce; poached, chilled scallops, or carpaccio of scallop; steamed or lightly cooked shrimp with mango and bell peppers; very mild curries on fish or shrimp; sweet potato-stuffed baked Vidalia onion; lovely solo sipper. Bacco Fine Wine $15.00 2007 Side Yard Vineyards Gewürztraminer Review Date - 6/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Side Yard is a California winery that imports some wines from regions outside of California. In this case from Germany. Gewürztraminer can range from bone dry to very sweet dessert wine, and can even be found occasionally made into a sparkling wine. This slightly off-dry example shows a bright golden color. Quite closed at first, it opens and becomes more luscious as it warms in the glass. Then the classic Gewürztraminer characters emerge: lichee nut and blossoms. On the palate, pineapple and fresh lychee nuts craft a rich yet fresh experience. The silky texture, good acidity, long finish make this a good aperitif or food wine. More elegant than voluptuous, this is a good choice for a variety of spicier cuisines. Relatively skimpy alcohol: 10.5%. Serve moderately chilled, about 55°F/13°C, in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Terrific value. This wine opens so dramatically, you might consider decanting for about 20 minutes. Foods: Grilled shrimp with mango/pineapple salsa; grilled pork tenderloin with baked sweet potato; chicken or shrimp salad with mild curry, green pepper, currants or raisins; salt-and-pepper calamari or shrimp; steamed Chinese dumplings with Ponzu dipping sauce; peanut chicken; . Try this gently with Indian food, although as it doesn’t have much residual sugar, the dish needs to be mild, not hot, in seasoning. Prime Distributors $10.00 2009 Rietvallei “Juanita” Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon Review Date - 6/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: If you think of rosés as light, delicate, sweet things, you’re in for a surprise. Fuller-bodied than many, this delectable example from a fine South African producer is made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon. It shows a lovely reddish pink color, and the aromas burst with all manner of berry fruit, from the red range to blueberries. On the palate, the same berry flavors dominate, with good acidity and reasonable alcohol. A long, crisp, dry finish rewards the rosé enthusiast. If you aren’t already one, this will convince you. This is a serious rosé. Delicious. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Santa Maria-style barbecue (seasoned tri-tip or sirloin of beef grilled, served with salsa, pinquito beans and salad); spice-rubbed (but not hot--I used 3 Beer BBQ Rub from Alpharetta, GA) country-style pork ribs (the meatier ones); grilled mild Italian sausages or mildly seasoned linguiça (some can be wicked hot); fajitas (any filling); blackened catfish or chicken breast; moo shu pork (or chicken or shrimp or vegetables). Big Boat Wine Co. $18.00 Castell d'Or Francolí Brut Reserva Cava NV Review Date - 5/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: What else do we select for starting a celebration but bubbles? Value choices from Spain make cava, the term for traditional method sparkling wine when it’s made in Spain, a great choice. This one is a full-bodied dry sparkling wine that is made from two of the traditional Cava grapes: Parellada and Macabeo (a/k/a Viura) in equal parts. The wine has spent 18 months in cellar before release. Poured into a classical flute or tulip-shaped white wine glass, the wine shows a lovely, bright, medium pale yellow gold color with greenish highlights. A lively mousse sets immediately, followed by fine small bead threads that persist long after the wine is poured. On the nose, aromatic yeasty aromas suggest brioche accompanied by a the scent (but not the sweetness) of honey. The palate shows substantial fruit--ripe apple and pear--along with yeasty characters. Good acidity does a great palate-cleansing job. This is a terrific value; while more expensive than some popular brands of cava, it delivers way more flavor, complexity and power for the money. Moderate alcohol, 11.5%. Don’t compare in either cost or character with Champagne; these are two different wines that happen to be made using the same method, but not the same grapes nor do the grapes come from the same terroir. Serve quite cold: 45-50°F/6-8°C. Foods: All manner of tapas, such as cocktail size crab cakes; quiche; savory fritters; shumai; cold, creamy soups (served in espresso cups); raw oysters with mild mignonettes; raw clams with lemon; sushi; chilled pickled shrimp; satay with peanut sauce and cucumber salad. Quality Wine & Spirits $15.00 2009 Gianni Doglia Moscato D’Asti D. O. C. G. Review Date - 5/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Some people often tell me apologetically that they like Moscato because they like sweet wines. Hey, I like good Moscato, so whadya say we go shopping? I don’t want one with a steak, but I advocate drinking what you like, and I‘ve seen people (including he-man types) do that. However, but I also advocate expanding what you like. When it comes to Moscato d’Asti, good ones can do a lot of terrific food-and wine pairing duty. This one is a classic, very pale straw in color; light in body; low in alcohol (5%), and delightfully aromatic. You’ll enjoy its lovely pale yellow color and its frothy mousse. The aromas alone are worth the experience, with citrus zest--kumquat and orange--and pear characters throughout. The palate tastes of fresh white fruits--white peaches and pears--with repeated citrus notes (kumquat/orange zest). Clean, refreshing, long and delightful. Serve chilled in flutes or tulip-shaped white wine glasses: 45-50°F/6-8°C. Foods: poached white meat chicken and fruit composed salad; grilled chicken and fruits on greens; orange and onion salad with roast chicken; with desserts such as poached, chilled peaches or pears on crème anglaise; fruit tarts; grilled pound cake or angel food cake with fresh fruit (strawberries or peaches with just a bit of turbinado sugar); strawberries with turbinado sugar, chiffonade of fresh basil, a touch of balsamic vinegar and freshly ground black pepper; chilled, poached curried fruits; rice pudding. Big Boat Wine Co. $21.00 2008 Weingut Steininger Grüner Veltliner Review Date - 5/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Grüner Veltliner is a grape type that has come on strong in just a few years in the Atlanta market. Weingut Steininger even makes a sekt (sparkling wine) out of it! Social, a wine bar in Charleston, SC, on E. Bay St. (not the one in Atlanta by the same name), has an entire section of its wine list devoted to wines made from the grape. Heaven! This example, a dry white wine with its pretty medium yellow color, emits aromas of wet stone on a warm day (the wine's minerality is exquisite!) along with yellow stone fruit and apple. On the palate, a luxurious silky texture and flavors of stone fruit and apple meld with bright acidity and minerality. Beautiful work! Moderate alcohol, 13%. Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60ºF/13-15ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Steamed crab legs with drawn butter, sushi; oysters with lemon, grilled seafood or deep-fried calamari with lemon aïoli; deep-fried or sautéed soft-shell crabs with a little curry powder in the dusting flour; baked fresh cod with crumbs, lemon, capers and butter/olive oil; steamed mussels with coconut milk and lemongrass; baked crab-stuffed flounder, soft, creamy cheeses. Hemispheres $24.00 2008 Hannah Nicole Vineyards “Le Mélange” Rosé Review Date - 5/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Mélange indeed. Try Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Petite Verdot and Sangiovese--all in a single blend. My kinda stuff. The key to this wine is to allow free-run juice to “bleed” off before fermentation takes place; this is what the French call a “saignée,” meaning “bled.” Then fermentation at cool temperatures takes the wine to the dry state (.5 residual sugar--below the sweet threshhold for most people). To say this wine has a beautiful color is the depths of restraint. The lovely light red hue is an ideal introduction to this “chillable” red. The nose fairly revels in fresh red fruit, from strawberries to rhubarb, and the palate enjoys the same rich, red fruit flavors.. Fruit sweetness is there, yes. But the long, clean finish is crisp and dry. Silky textured, this “mélange” of red fruits leaves a lengthy impression. The merest hint of brown spice adds complexity. Delicious. Serve chilled, about 50-55°F/10-13ºC. Riedel’s rosé glass with the pink stem is lovely, and makes an impact together. Remember NOT to cellar rosés. Foods: Composed salads with grilled chicken and yellow stone fruits, duck and dried red fruits; turkey and dried cranberries, walnuts; medium-bodied poached chicken with bacon and tomato, Mexican barbacoa or carne asada in flat breads; veggie fajitas or fajitas with pork or chicken and veggies; grilled ham steak; barbecue, including Asian; teriyaki; Country Captain (old Southern chicken dish with curry, red and green peppers, currants and toasted almonds over rice); paella. Gusto Brands $10.00 2006 The Girls in the Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Review Date - 5/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Established in 2004, the Red Hills AVA has some 3000 planted acres in California’s North Coast (Lake County). At The Girls in the Vineyard--girls here being a metaphor for vines--sustainable agricultural practices go from the vine to the recyclable tin capsule. The wine’s lovely deep purple red color bodes well. Sweet dark fruit aromas lead to a palate that presents black plum and black currant characters, all knit together with a bit of dried herb. Nothing green, however, about this full-bodied Cab, so you won’t find it full of bell pepper as can happen. Round, juicy, silky tannins enfold the fruit flavors, and good acidity leaves a clean impression. High-ish alcohol producing a little heat is tempered in the presence of rich foods and by cooling the wine just a bit before serving. Serve at 60ºF/15ºC in large tulip-shaped glasses. Women who complain that Cabernet is “too thick” may well enjoy this one. Will keep if cellared well a few years more. Foods: Rich liver pâté; meat-filled empanadas; Cajun red beans and rice with some not-too-hot andouille; grilled steak, pork chop, lamb chop, duck breast, ham steak or Cornish hen; exotically seasoned dishes, such as Country Captain; rabbit or turkey thigh meat slow-cooked with black olives and slow-roasted tomatoes; prime rib; creamy mild blue cheeses; medium cacao dark chocolate (about 55-60%). Big Boat Wine Co. $18.00 2007 Big House "Prodigal Son" Petite Sirah Review Date - 5/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Petit Sirah, says winemaker Georgetta Dane, a native of Romania, is the “prodigal son,” coming home to California because it gets no respect in France, its home turf. But in California, it shows exemplary promise. I might add I’ve had some pretty good ones in Australia, specifically in Rutherglen, where it’s known by its original name, Durif. All that notwithstanding, this example is a classic, showing a lovely medium-deep, still translucent ruby red color. On the nose, there’s a lovely scent of fresh dark fruits--black currants, blackberries--and these continue on the palate, which is backed up by good acidity. Tannins are soft, making this useful for lots of dishes. Potential for development with proper cellaring if held a few more years. I like this served cool, about 60ºF/15ºC, or even closer to cellar temperature (55ºF/13ºC), to emphasize the fruit. American oak, which integrates very well with the fruit. Very good value. Food: Says the winery: sweet and spicy Hoisin barbecue beef, fajitas de carne, pescado al mojo de ajo, wild boar, shish kabob, Peking duck, ribs, mesquite grilled hanger steak. Now, not knowing these recommendations, I tasted it with a grilled hangar steak at Abattoir, along with other red wines in the line-up. Got to the Petite Sirah and said: Bang. That’s it! Also chicken liver pâté; charcuterie; grilled ham or lamb steak; grilled duck breast; feathered or furred game; mole poblano; chocolate pot de crème (awesome), creamy, mild blue cheeses. And I’d bet on it with other Asian meat dishes, so long as the seasoning wasn’t too hot. Empire Distributing $17.00 2008 Scherer Gewürztraminer Review Date - 5/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Gewürztraminer (geh-voorts-trah-mee-ner) is a grape type that many people think is sweet by definition. Well, it isn’t--necessarily. Vinified along a range from dry to off-dry to very sweet, the grape has many fans but most consumers don’t know what to do with it. Yet for the exotic foods we enjoy today, it’s often an ideal companion, especially when spice is present in a dish. This off-dry to dry example, showing a lovely greenish yellow color, and offers an exotic aroma that’s classic for the grape type: lichee nut; mandarin orange; honeysuckle; aromatic spice. On the palate, voluptuous fruit characters continue the lichee nut/mandarin orange flavors. (The grape and lichee nuts have common compounds.) Good acidity operates in harmony with the fruit, creating a mouthwatering experience. Lovely texture (this wine sees some neutral oak). Lush, full-bodied, and true to type, this is a classic example of the genre. Serve moderately chilled, about 50ºF/10ºC, in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Foods: Anything Thai, but hold the extreme heat: basil rolls dipped in peanut, hoisin, sambal sauce (extremely good); chicken satay with peanut sauce; Thai red curries; poached chicken breast on greens, tracing of curry mayonnaise; Country Captain (mild curried chicken with bell peppers, currants and toasted almonds over rice); roast pork tenderloin with sweet potato-stuffed baked Vidalia onions; fried chicken with honey mustard; creamy assertive cheeses such as French Münster; poached, chilled pears with crème anglaise. Unique World Wines $15.00 2008 Girardet Wine Cellars Baco Noir Review Date - 5/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Girardet Wine Cellars was founded by Philippe Girardet, a Swiss French, in 1971. His son, Marc, continues the paternal tradition. Originating in Bordeaux in the late 1800s, Baco Noir is a hybrid of Folle Blanche, found chiefly around Nantes in the Loire Valley, and Vitis riparia. While Baco Noir is a popular cultivar east of the Mississippi River, it’s rarely grown in the West, but was pioneered there in the 1970s by the senior Girardet. So the vines that produced this wine have a good bit of age on them. The very dark purple red color introduces a medium-bodied dry red wine that shows chocolate-cherry and blackberry aromas with rose petal notes. On the palate, lush, attractive dark fruit flavors come hints of vanilla, cocoa and roasted coffee. Supple tannins are sweet and juicy. I’ve tasted several Baco Noir wines from Canada to New York to Michigan. None so far hits this mark. Serve cool, about 60ºF/15ºC in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Roasted pork loin chop with sweet potato mash; grilled ham steak; smoked, well-seasoned beef ribs; smoked brisket, tomato-based barbecue sauce; grilled beef or ham steak; teriyaki; roast duck, chicken or Cornish hen; baked beans with bacon layer on top; Korean barbecue; roasted rack of lamb; dark chocolate; berry-filled dark chocolates. Artisan Vines $25.00 2008 L.A. Cetto Chenin Blanc Review Date - 5/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Chenin Blanc is a grape that deserves more attention than it gets; it’s one of the few white wine grapes that can age if properly cellared. And it will make every style, from still to sparkling, and from bone dry to very sweet. It’s planted in a wide range of terroirs, from France, its home base in the Loire Valley (Vouvray), to South Africa, where it’s the most widely planted grape; to California, both north and south of the border. This example comes from south of the border. Pale yellow and showing appealing citrus notes in the aromas, with touches of banana and mango, the wine develops these characters beautifully on the palate. The fruit sweetness (not residual sugar) is relieved by appropriate acidity. Moderate alcohol, 12%. Serve moderately chilled, about 50-55ºF/10-13ºC (and I prefer it on the warmer end of that range). Terrific value. Foods: Thai basil rolls, peanut/hoisin/sambal dipping sauce; Vietnamese green papaya salad with shrimp; Thai shrimp salad with a light green curry sauce; pad Thai with chicken, pork or shrimp (hold the heat); grilled chicken or shrimp with mango salsa; moo shoo pork or vegetables; fried soft-shell crab or calamari with sweet-and-sour sauce; deep-fried oysters with lemon aioli. Ultimate Distributors $12.00 2007 Praxis Cellars Lagrein Review Date - 5/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: “Lagrein?” you ask. Yes, it’s a grape type. Pronounce it “Lah-Grine.” Grown typically in northern Italy, where it makes very tannic wines unless blended with another grape type to soften it (although there are other ways of doing this). It makes robust red wines and delicious, fruit-dense rosés (Lageder, from Alto-Adige in northern Italy, makes a Lagrein rosé that sometimes is available in Atlanta and is just delicious.) Lagrein is a cross between Pinot Noir and another native Alto Adige grape, Teroldego. A very little bit of it is planted in California and some in the Umpqua Valley of Oregon. There are experimental plantings in Australia. This is an opportunity to taste a rarely seen grape in a wine that is very well executed. Medium-bodied, this dry red wine is gifted with a beautiful deep purple color. Floral notes and a hint of freshly cured tobacco enhance cherry fruit aromas, on the palate red cherry characters blend with some suggestions of cinnamon, followed by a sour cherry finish. The fleshy, sweet tannins are round and not aggressive. Serve at cool room temperatures (60ºF/15ºC) in large tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: chicken livers rubbed with five spice powder, sautéed, on toast; grilled duck breast (again five spice powder), with sweet potatoes or baked apple stuffed with sweet potato; grilled Cornish hen brushed with dark jam thinned with some of this wine; grilled sausages; penne pasta with smoked mozzarella and spinach, lots of garlic; beef carpaccio; speck; salumi of various sorts; dark chocolate. Artisan Vines $18.00 2008 Matua Valley Wines "Estate Series" Pinot Noir Review Date - 5/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Pinot Noir has found a definite home in Central Otago, on New Zealand’s South Island. Here Pinot Noir develops a distinctive savory character, rather than showing opulent, sometimes over-the-top, fruit a la Oregon. In this example, which shows a lovely purple/red color, one picks up aromas of fresh dark fruits, tempered with hints of herb and earth. On the palate wild herb and juniper notes join the dark fruits, and the good acidity sustains the flavors through the long finish. Absolutely excellent, and a great value. At this price, we can say: Drink more Pinot!!! And it speaks loudly the terroir language of Central Otago, so it knows its place in the sun. Serve slightly cool, about 55-60ºC;13-15ºC, in balloon-shaped glasses. Foods: Tasted with soy-braised pork belly and baby bok choy; duck confit with a teriyaki glaze; seven-spice beef; and can think of tons more Asian-influenced dishes it would go with: Vietnamese shaking beef; grilled five-spice duck breast. Also rack of lamb rubbed with ground chocolate and coffee and roasted; roast pork rubbed with aromatic spices; roast chicken or duck; grilled, split Cornish hen; wild mushroom risotto; game (both feathered and furred); rabbit or chicken chasseur; mild creamy cheeses. United Distributors $28.00 Borges Porto Branco NV Review Date - 5/1/2010 Score - 89 Tasting Note: White Porto? The concept comes still as a surprise--if not an outright shock--to many consumers. Being a long-term white Port maniac, I have savored and cooked with it for many decades. Like their red counterparts, white Portos are fortified, so alcohol is high, 19% in this case. Some 30 different varieties may be used to make white Porto, and in this one the blend is Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Donzelinho, and Viosinho. Most Porto houses do one, but they don’t all export them. Happily, we are seeing more brands in the Atlanta market, and I’m pleased to introduce this one. Medium deep amber gold in color, this version hits on the dry side. Aromas and flavors of dried white fruits with some brown baking spices on the palate make this one a worthy entry into the genre. The long finish shows good acidity and the expected heat of high alcohol. Serve moderately chilled, about 50-55°F/10-13°C. Or as is done in Portugal, on the rocks with a splash of tonic water (my preference) or club soda and a squeeze of lime (my choice) or lemon. A refreshing option for your opening gambit. Foods: As an aperitif, in the Portuguese manner, with slightly spicy cheese straws or coins (Georgia-made Geraldine’s Chipotle Cheddar Cheese Straws--tangy but not too hot); toasted, salted almonds; ham; green olives or green olive tepanade on sliced bread; crostini. New World Wines $15.00 2007 Henry Estate Winery Pinot Noir Umpqua Valley Review Date - 4/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: This medium-bodied dry red wine epitomizes the type of Pinot Noir that will go well with fish. The wine shows a medium translucent garnet red color, and the aromas present suggestions of cherry but with the added earthy nuances one looks for in Pinot Noir and just a touch of dried herb. On the palate, look for cherry to pick up complexity from black pepper notes, while the finish brings one back to the beginning with dried herb notes. Balanced, well-knit, with just a suggestion of oak, this well-made Pinot Noir is a terrific all-around food wine. Serve in a Burgundy glass at a cool room temperature, about 60-65ºF;15-17ºC. Very good value. Foods: seared, rare ahi tuna rolled in white and black sesame seeds, soy-based dipping sauce; tuna tataki; grilled salmon with teriyaki butter sauce; roasted sea bass with tomato butter; grilled swordfish; garlic-studded whole catfish rolled in seasoned rice flour, deep fried, with Ponzu dipping sauce; sautéed soft-shell crab rolled in curry powder-seasoned flour; oily fish sashimi (mackerel, wild-caught salmon; yellow fin); Korean barbecued eel Big Boat Wine Co. $20.00 2008 King Estate Pinot Gris Review Date - 4/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris are the same grape. Oregon produces some of the best Pinot Gris in the U.S., and most of the time, the wines produced in Oregon follow the Alsace model, showing nice roundness of texture rather than the crisp, steeliness or those produced in northern Italy. This example, from one of the state’s finest practitioners of Pinot Gris winemaking, comes from a blend of 41% estate-grown certified organic grapes with the balance from contracted sustainable growers. Five months of lees stirring adds markedly to the wine’s richness. King Estate takes the grape so seriously, it has even produced a cook book of recipes to go with this wine. Showing a bright golden straw color, the wine presents aromas of pear, citrus and fresh fruit blossoms, while on the palate, yellow stone fruit, citrus and the taste (but not the sweetness) of honey present a complex profile. Be careful not to get this one too cold: 55-60ºF.13-15ºC is plenty. Use a generous-bowled white wine glass, as this has a lot of aromatics to appreciate. Food: Asian-influenced and exotically seasoned fish and seafood: mild curried shrimp salad; mussels cooked with coconut milk, lemongrass and ginger; pud Thai with shrimp; green papaya salad with shrimp; salt-and-pepper squid or shrimp; poached or parchment cooked scallops with ginger scallion sauce; miso marinated grilled sea bass National Distributing $18.00 2007 Saracina Sauvignon Blanc Mendocino County Review Date - 4/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Sauvignon Blanc can present a wide variety of characters, from canned peas (South Africa) to tropical fruit (Australia/Chile), to herbaceous grassiness (Sancerre) and grapefruit (New Zealand). But there’s yet another profile, one that captures passion fruit and melon, plus a touch of fig. John Fetzer, formerly of Fetzer Vineyards, is the spirit behind this operation, which reprises his passion for growing organic grapes. Medium-bodied with great mouthfeel and character, this dry white wine shows exquisite balance between fruit and acid. Neutral French oak and tank lots are blended to craft a wine that initially presents zingy aromas of fresh cut herbs and fresh melon, while on the palate citrus-kissed tropical fruit (here’s the ripe passion fruit) takes over. Neutral French oak tames the palate, creating a seductive silky texture and rounding the edges of the substantial acidity. The tank-fermented lots keep the fresh fruit character vibrant. Serve moderately chilled, 50-55ºF;10-13ºC, in medium white wine glasses. Foods: raw, poached or steamed oysters with lemon; baked mild fish (halibut, fresh cod, lemon sole) with butter, fresh-cut herbs and capers; whole baked flounder with crab meat stuffing; crab cakes; steamed King or snow crab legs, drawn lemon butter; hake in Spanish-style salsa verde (butter, oil, herbs, capers, lemon); fried calamari (or shirmp or catfish) with good aioli. Additionally: Coles Lake Dairy Fiesta Goat Cheese, Carroll County, GA Hemispheres $23.00 2008 Zenato Lugana San Benedetto D.O.C. Review Date - 4/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Trebbiano is a widely planted grape type; in fact, some sources say it’s the second most widely planted grape in the world. By its other name, Ugni Blanc, it appear in Cognac and Armagnac. Off it went to Argentina with Italian immigrants. And it’s the grape made into balsamic vinegar. Probably 1/3 of it is planted it Italy. A high-yielding wine, it makes pleasant wine, although not one that has especially distinguished itself. Yet in Italy is has six D.O.C.s. This example, from vineyards in and around the village of San Benedetto just south of Lake Garda, is a good one, very pleasant to drink and showing more flavor than most. A pale yellow color with greenish tones introduces a wine whose aromas hit on white stone fruit and citrus. The palate is round and soft, and enjoys a good white fruit/acid balance. That characteristic slight bitter almond note--often appearing in white Italian wines--perks up the finish. Drink now. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Foods: Simply prepared fish and shellfish dishes: baked fish with lemon, butter, fresh herbs; poached or baked cod and clams with salsa verde (Spanish style--fresh peas/fresh snipped herbs) and white asparagus; baked crab-stuffed flounder; crab cakes with lemon aÏoli; grilled herb-stuffed trout with lemon Prestige Wine Wholesale $14.00 2006 Fattoria Paradiso Strabismo di Venere Bianco Forlì I.G.T. Review Date - 4/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Albana di Romagna is a grape type that’s not often seen in Atlanta. In Italy it is made in both dry and sweet styles, and some who appreciate the grape believe the sweet styles are the best. In this interesting example, the classic characters are there: This medium-bodied dry white wine shows a bright, medium-deep golden straw color. On the nose, a defining nuttiness enhances exotic aromas of yellow fruits and exotic spices. On the palate, well-evolved yellow stone fruit flavors meld with spice characters and good acidity. The round, silky texture is as much a part of the experience as the flavor. The finish is exotic, clean and very long. The wine has seen brief oak aging in tight-grained French oak, but not enough to affect flavor. Important not to get this too cold; 55-60ºF/13-15ºC will do the job. Foods: curried seafood salad or creamy seafood curry (not too hot); Southern-style fried fish and seafood with tartar sauce; fried calamari with lemon aïoli; Moroccan fish tagine (no harissa!); crab cakes with minced red bell pepper; soft-shell crab dusted with curry powder-infused flour and sautéed, finished with toasted almonds; swordfish or halibut piccata; salt cod fritters (very typical of this region); fish with Indian sauces if not too hot. Vinifera Imports $16.00 2008 Saxon Brown Cricket Creek Vineyard Semillon Review Date - 4/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Semillon is one grape that gets routinely overlooked in the pantheon of white wines, yet it plays second fiddle to Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux while Australia reverses that role, making Sauvignon Blanc either its co-equal or in second position to Semillon, which it also makes as a single-varietal wine. Capable of aging in some instances, Semillon deserves more respect. This example shows a medium-pale yellow color, and presents an aroma profile of flowers and tropical fruit (some banana/guava). On the palate, white stone fruit and ripe fig are mouth filling. Good acidity. No oak. This is a small operation with an owner-winemaker (Jeff Gaffney) making less than 400 cases of this wine and not much of anything else. These 25-year-old (or so) vines yield less than a couple tons per acre. Served moderately chilled (55ºF/13ºC), in white wine glasses. Foods: Oysters (raw or slightly steamed/roasted) with fresh lemon; Mild seafood curry salad; not-too-hot Indian fish dishes; grilled or baked halibut with mango salsa; crab or shrimp Louie; soft-shell crab dusted in curry-accented powder and sautéed; whipped mashed potatoes with baked lemon sole (or other mild fish) and butter/fresh herbs, capers; risotto with seafood and saffron; baked flounder stuffed with crab meat; Thai-style fish or seafood if not too hot (with lemongrass and coconut milk) Hemispheres $20.00 2008 Raffaldini Vermentino Review Date - 4/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Vermentino is a grape of Spanish origin that has spread its wings all along the Southern Med, including Corsica and Sardinina, arriving there in the late 19th century. Southern Italy’s premier white wine grape may well become Southern America’s premier white wine grape, under the leadership of the good Italian folks who developed and own this North Carolina vineyard. After searching some 60 sites worldwide, the Raffaldini family settled on this corner of North Carolina and planted some 30 varieties and clones of assorted grape types to see what would do best. Vermentino and Italian varieties generally took the limelight. This medium-bodied dry white wine shows a mellow golden color. Aromas focus on tropical fruits (some banana), citrus (lime), and provide a clean, appealing scent. On the palate, apple, Asian pear apple and lime characters are backed up by good acidity. That classic Italian honey note (the taste, not the sweetness) adds to the wine’s complexity. The North Carolina version is a bit richer than most Sardinian Vermentino, which tends to be steelier. This wine was included in President Obama’s official gift to the Italian president, Georgio Napolitano, leaving these folks absolutely breathless with delight. Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60ºF/13-15ºC. Foods: Grilled scallops on gingered sweet potato mash; seafood linguine with clams; baked seafood lasagna; shrimp and scallops on grits with a garlic cream gravy and tasso ham; mild seafood curries on rice; Moroccan fish tagine (hold the harissa!); red snapper baked with garlic, green peppers and sautéed Vidalia onions. Additionally: creamy mild cheeses (CalyRoad Creamery’s Camembert, Roopeville, GA); any of a raft of good North Carolina cheeses. From the winery (www.raffaldini.com); can be shipped to Georgia. $16.00 2008 Domaine les Aphillanthes Rose Review Date - 4/1/2010 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Any time is a good time to drink rosé in my view, and when you’re enjoying fish or seafood with assertive seasonings or tomato, it doesn’t matter if there’s a blizzard going on out there. Go for rosé! Let the food and mood drive your wine choices, not the weather. This rosé is a great example of what brings me back to the genre time after time: A beautiful reddish pink color pleases the eye. Aromas of wild strawberries on a warm day please the senses. Some strawberry and watermelon lurk in there, too. Fruit sweetness abounds. Then on the palate comes a sense of lively red fruits and brown spices, all well integrated and driving the very long, clean finish. Even if it is snowing outside, you’ll think summer while enjoying this delicious wine. Grapes: Cinsault (60%); Grenache (20%); Counoise (15%); Mourvèdre(5%). Serve it moderately chilled, about 50-55ºF/10-13ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Great with shrimp fajitas with sautéed onions and peppers, fresh salsa and Mexican crema agria; seafood paella; pad Thai with shrimp; fish baked in tomato sauce; grilled salmon; red snapper stuffed with crumbs and herbs and baked; blackened redfish (or other fish); jambalaya; crawfish étouffée (not too hot, please!); Jamaican fish dishes (not to hot either, please!) Unique World Wines $13.00 Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene Prosecco Val d’Oca Extra Dry NV Review Date - 4/1/2010 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Not all sparklers are made in the traditional method, and among those that are not, Prosecco offers consumers a well-priced alternative to more expensive Champagne. But it’s a different product. Prosecco, the grape type, is grown in the Veneto. Its flavors and mouthfeel are completely different from those of the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier used to make Champagne. So don’t compare the two wines. This extra dry (meaning it has more than 15 grams/liter of residual sugar) strikes a nice balance between acidity and sweetness. Showing a pale yellow color, the wine pours a really nice mousse and stays lively longer than do a lot of wines in the genre. On the aromas, floral and citrus notes are quite enticing, while the palate delivers pear, apple and white mlon flavors. Clean, crisp and long in the finish, this is a happy accompaniment to a lot of foods, and a great brunch wine for a large party at a good price. Moderate alcohol: 11%. Serve moderately chilled, about 50ºF/10ºC, in white wine glasses or flutes. Do not cellar; consume these wines fresh. Foods: Grilled and chilled scallops with pear or Asian pear mignonette or salsa; seafood sausages with beurre blanc and fresh snipped herbs; seafood terrine or mousse; sushi; smoked fish; raw or steamed chilled clams and lemon; scallop carpaccio Gusto Brands $14.00 2006 Rocca del Principe Fiano di Avellino D.O. C. G. Review Date - 4/1/2010 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Another of Italy’s old, established grape types, dating back more than 2,000 years; Fiano produces an intensely flavored dry white wine that is ideal for fish and seafood. Locals get to enjoy a semi-sweet sparkling version that doesn’t leave the region. The wine achieved D.O.C.G. status in 2003. (Greco di Tufo is the other D.O.C.G. white in Campania, which is the shin on Italy’s boot.) The medium-pale yellow color introduces a medium-bodied wine that starts with mineral (chalky; wet, hot stone) accents in the aromas, mineralty shapes the flavors that the palate enjoys. The wine almost seems tannic, it’s so dry. A long, crisp, clean finish rewards each sip. Absolutely delicious, but a very sophisticated taste. Drink these young, within 3-5 years of the vintage, and don’t over chill them: 55-60ºF/13-15ºC is sufficient, not more. A wonderful wine. Very worth the money. Foods: raw, steamed or roasted oysters with lemon; Southern-style fried fish and seafood with lemon, tartar sauce; mild white fish such as sea bass, flounder, sole, halibut with lemon, capers and minced parsley; fish or shrimp salad; scallops grilled or fried with lemon; swordfish picatta; fish picatta; grilled trout stuffed with fresh herbs; lemon; grilled fresh sardines or any grilled fresh white fish; crab fritters or beignets Vinifera Imports $20.00 2007 Hermitage de Combas Merlot Review Date - 4/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: This isn’t one of the boldest, biggest Merlots you’ll ever encounter, but for the purpose of pairing a red wine with fish, it’s spot on. In this example, a medium-bodied dry red wine shows a medium, translucent ruby color. Both dark and red fruits--blackberry with some red plum and red cherry notes--form the aromas and continue through to the palate. Fruit, oak and tannin are well integrated, and the wine shows fine balance. Soft tannins and good acidity complete the profile, both good attributes for pairing red wine with fish. Côtes de Thongue lies in Languedoc in southeastern France. Serve slightly cool, 60-65ºF/15-17ºC, in glasses with a generous tapered bowl. Quite good value, to say the least. Food: Make a beurre rouge, same as a beurre blanc but substituting red wine for white, and serve with grilled salmon, tuna, swordfish or halibut. Also good with teriyaki salmon; miso-glazed grilled sea bass or halibut; tomato-based fish and seafood stews; tuna tataki; sashimi Libiamo $10.00 2007 Weingut Villa Riesling Spätlese “Medium-Dry” Review Date - 4/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Riesling is a league leader when it comes to accompanying fish and shellfish, especially in dishes that enjoy a good bit of spice. With its beautiful, limpid, clear pale yellow color, this example is made from late-picked grapes, but is a halb-trocken or medium-dry. Aromas are classic Riesling, with fresh citrus-accented pear characters. White stone fruit--white peach/apricot--and good minerality define the palate. The slightest hint of dried herb adds an interesting note to the long, clean, dry finish. Lovely acidity. Positively mouthwatering. Moderate alcohol: 10.5%. Weingut Villa was founded by Vivi Hasse and Lars Dalgaard, who are Danish, in 2001, as a hobby enterprise. An architect, Vivi Hasse designed the winery, while Lars Dalgaard works with Deutsche Telekom. Serve moderately chilled, about 50-55ºF/10-13ºC. Use a tall, tulip-shaped glass. Foods: Shrimp curry whether as salad or as a hot dish with rice, slivered almonds; thick fillets of mild fish (fresh cod, halibut) cooked briefly in beer and served with a cream sauce spiked with whole-grain mustard; fresh smoked trout; pickled herring and herring salad; pad Thai with shrimp; halibut with sautéed apple; baked salmon with mango/ginger salsa; seafood-filled dumplings (gyoza or shumai) and Ponzu sauce for dipping; grilled scallops on gingered sweet potato purée or in parchment paper with juliénned vegetables, ginger, mirin and sesame oil. Big Boat Wine Co. $15.00 Loxarel Brut Rosat NV Review Date - 3/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Pinot Noir is the grape behind this beautiful dry sparkling wine with the bright translucent ruby red color. Aromas of red fruit accompany flavors that suggest wild red fruits--wild raspberries and strawberries--achieved by allowing 14 hours of skin contact followed by stainless steel fermentation at about 14ºC/59ºF. Clean, crisply finished and showing lively fresh fruit, this wine shows a different take on cava from what most consumers are accustomed to seeing as most are made from the native grapes (Macabeo-Parellada-Xarel.lo). The long finish is propelled by good acidity. Very elegant. This one likes to be chilled a good bit, perhaps as much as 45ºF/5ºC. The winery suggests this with oysters and pasta, but I can’t see oysters with it, unless they’re bacon-wrapped and grilled. Though that might work very nicely in fact. Foods: Chicken liver pâté; bacon-wrapped chicken livers, grilled; tiny biscuits with thinly sliced country ham; Catalan pa amb tomaqet (bread with tomato--think early pizza) with slices of chorizo or thinly sliced ham on top; grilled bacon-wrapped shrimp with mildly spice Rémoulade (Creole style); jambalaya; sushi; dim sum, Korean and Chinese barbecue Bacco Fine Wine $18.00 2008 Principe Silver Emotion Extra Dry Prosecco Review Date - 3/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Prosecco is grape type that in the Veneto is made as both a still and a sparkling wine, but in this country we usually see just the sparkling. It’s become a popular bubbly because of its price point; yet many consumers don’t like it because often the less expensive ones aren’t very appealing. This is not one of the cheap ones, although it’s still very well priced, and as a result is a completely different animal. While it’s an extra dry (meaning it has more residual sugar than a brut), it’s just over the line, and its balance is so good, it comes off dry on the palate and in the finish. The wine’s vibrant effervescence and very pale straw color are immediately appealing. Aromas develop notes of almond, then some white pepper, while sweet apple (think Gala or Braeburn) and pear follow on the palate. Clean, crisp and elegant, this is a very fine value. Excellent packaging supports the beauty of the wine. Foods: Appetizers such as cocktail size crab cakes, unsalted potato chips (Kettle at Whole Foods) with salmon caviar and Russian sour cream (New Odessa at Clairmont and Briarcliff rds.), cocktail-sized potatoes with sour cream and smoked salmon; grilled scallops with lemon aioli; dim sum, such as steamed seafood-filled dumplings; shumai Big Boat Wine Co. $22.00 Champagne Mandois Brut Origine NV Review Date - 3/1/2010 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Pierry, a first-growth village south of Epernay in Côte des Blancs, is home to Champagne Mandois, which owns 35 hectars/87.5 acres that meet 70% of its grape requirements. Established in 1735, Champagne Mandois sets house style in its Brut Origine, a classic blend of Chardonnay (40%), Pinot Noir (30%) and Pinot Meunière (30%). This is a full-bodied sparkling wine with a medium golden color and vigorous tiny bubbles rising in a constant thread. Yeasty, bready aromas lead to rich, deep, intense flavors that sustain a toasted brioche quality throughout from beginning through mid-palate to finish. Complex, layered and compelling, the wine is a full-meal sparkler capable of pairing well with a variety of full-bodied foods. Good acidity--again classic for Champagne--means the wine can pair well with dishes that are rich and creamy. Foods: Oysters Rockefeller (but omit the Pernod or anise in the spinach); shrimp and grits with a creamy sauce; filet mignon with red wine reduction sauce; roast chicken; chicken pot pie; classically prepared veal sweetbreads with sautéed pear and spinach Ultimate Distributors $45.00 Villa Rosa Moscato d’Asti D. O. C. G. NV Review Date - 3/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Sparkling Moscato is a delightful, freshly fruity, low-alcohol (<6%) sparkler that makes a perfect meal ender or afternoon sipper in warm weather. Like Prosecco, these are made in the charmat method. This example is classic: Small bubbles, the flowery perfume of sweet apples blossoms in warm weather; and a clear, bright, medium-pale yellow color. On the palate, sweet apple fruit flavors invite repeated sipping. The clean, long, fruit-driven finish is lip-smacking tasty. Moscato’s closure typically is a normal cork, and you open the bottle with the usual cork pull. To keep the freshness at the forefront, serve these a little cooler than advocated for Champagne, about 45ºF/5ºC in a tulip-shaped glass. Foods: Panna cotta with fresh fruit; summer fruit with turbinado sugar; simple cookies such as langue de chat, almond biscotti; creamy mild cheeses, including gorgonzola dolce; pound cake with fruit; puddings; zuppa inglese on chilled poached fruit; fruit tarts General Wholesale $14.00 Mas de Monistrol Estate MPX Cava NV Review Date - 3/1/2010 Score - 89 Tasting Note: In Catalán, “mas” means “estate. “Cava”is the term Spain chose to denote its traditional method sparkling wine once it could no longer use the term “champán“ or anything similar. Other regions are permitted to make Cava, but the most important one is the Penedès, in Cataluña. A variety of grape types may be used, but the traditional ones are Parellada, Macabeo (a/k/a Viura), Parellada and Xarel.lo--thus MPX. A blend of 70% native-to-Spain Monastrell (a/k/a Mourvèdre or Mataro) and Pinot Noir (30%), this example is a pink brut, meaning its dosage measured less than 15 grams per liter. The attractive reddish pink color has good eye appeal, and the bubbles area quite tiny and persistent. The aromas hint of raspberry and strawberry, and on the palate, crisp red fruits blend with good acidity to create a palate-cleansing sip. The long finish holds onto the fruit and acidity. Not complex, but clean, this is a good example of the type, and a very good value. In Spain, cava typically is served after a meal, but we’ll still pair it with foods as that’s the way most American consumers will use it. Foods: Sushi and sashimi; salmon and chicken teriyaki; chorizo al vino; ham croquetas; seafood soups; Chinese or Korean barbecue (not honeyed, though); chicken wings; dim sum; gyoza; salt-and-pepper shrimp or squid; fried chicken with a bit of spice (not hot) in the coating mix; grilled shrimp; fried catfish; Cajun and Creole dishes (if not too hot), such as jambalaya, étouffée; grits and grillades; also shrimp and grits with some tomato. National Distributing $10.00 Ferrari Brut Rosé Metodo Classico NV Review Date - 3/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: On Italian sparkling wines done in the “Champagne” method, you’ll find terms such as “metodo classico” and “metodo tradizionale”--both referencing secondary fermentation taking place in the bottle. This medium-bodied sparkling wine shows a lovely salmon pink color. On the nose, aromas of fresh red fruits are set off by sweet (not bitter) almond notes, almost as if you were in a bakery that was producing almond-apple tarts. The almond character emerges on the palate, which also enjoys a good expression of fresh red fruits--red currants and wild strawberries. Complex and long finished, with the sweet almond note carried through to the end, this is a sparkling wine for all sorts of purposes. And wonderful on its own. In this genre, it’s also a terrific value. Foods: Grilled chicken livers on rosemary skewers; chicken liver pâté; carpaccio; roasted Cornish hen brushed with melted red currant jam; grilled bacon-wrapped scallops or shrimp; chicken or salmon teriyaki; salt-and-pepper shrimp with soy-based dipping sauce (serious yummer); steamed or fried Chinese or Korean dumplings with dipping sauce; Asian barbecue (but not honey coated); roast chicken or spice-rubbed roast pork (loin or tenderloin). Georgia Crown $28.00 2007 Paringa Sparkling Shiraz Review Date - 3/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: The Aussies have garnered a reputation for sparkling reds, mostly made from Shiraz. This full-bodied example is a dry red wine with a bright dark cherry color. Rich, red fruit and spice (brown baking spices) aromas greet the nose, while the palate sees a clean, spare, dry red fruit character, with emphasis on black cherry and black currant, with a touch of mulberry. A very long, clean finish provokes a mouthwatering response. Delicious. Very fine value. Foods: The Aussies like these things with turkey at holiday times and at brunch with eggs scrambled with cream, chives and smoked salmon, bacon and well-buttered toast. I was a disbeliever, but it works. Also baked beans with some sweetness, chili, baked ham or grilled ham steak, roast duck with Asian five-spice powder, barbecue, tangy blue cheeses (I liked it with the Clemson blue), chili, mole poblano, medium-dark chocolate, about 60% cacao. Quality Wine & Spirits $13.00 2006 Schramsberg Vineyards Blanc de Blancs Review Date - 3/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: America and other New World regions have not developed a fancy schmansy marketing term for sparkling wines. But California sure has developed the technique. This, the wine that President Richard Nixon brought with him to China, is 100% Chardonnay from various cool North Coast sites. The full-bodied wine shows a lovely pale gold color. Aromas march through a range of sensations with its lively, clean scent showing accents of aromatic spices, such as freshly ground cardamom and coriander seed. On the palate, clean fresh white fruits--pear and Asian pear apple--meet exotic spices. Rich, with a deep mid-palate, the wine shows a long finish. Good acidity cleanses the palate, making it a good candidate for rich foods. Foods: caviar on an unsalted potato chip with Russian sour cream; chicken liver-based pâté or mousse, roasted pistachios; poached chicken in cream sauce; cocktail potatoes stuffed with smoked salmon and sour cream; shrimp grilled on a hot bed of gros sel in a black cast-iron frying pan, squeeze of lemon; chicken thighs baked on a bed of caramelized onions; quenelles of white fish, beurre blanc; crab cakes; chilled, grilled or sautéed scallops with garlic or lemon aïoli National Distributing Co. $35.00 Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem' Champagne NV Review Date - 3/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: This large cooperative does a splendid range of Champagnes, including a Kosher Champagne. The Brut Extrem’, which is an Extra Brut, meaning no dosage, is 100% Chardonnay. Time on the lees before being disgorged is 5 years, a process that enhances complexity. And this is indeed a full-bodied complex wine, one that opens with a yeasty, buttered toast aroma with some citrus notes. Rich, dense, complex fruit-and-toast fill the palate, as clean acidity keeps in step with the fruit. This is a big wine, perhaps best used as an aperitif. The winery suggests oysters, but we think that would result in the loss of the oysters, and that rich dishes would do better. Foods: Butternut squash or pumpkin ravioli or risotto; poached salmon with beurre blanc; tournedos Rossini; beef Wellington. United Distributors $35.00 Jankris Winery Sparkling Raspberry NV Review Date - 3/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: As I pointed out above, not all sparkling wines are made from grapes. Blueberries and red raspberries are among the fruits I’ve seen producing lovely sparkling wines, both using the traditional method. At JanKris Winery in Paso Robles, CA, a number of out-of-the-bos sparkling wines include almond and peach. Why not? If the fruit tastes true to type, the result can be lovely. That’s the case with the JanKris sparkling raspberry wine. With its delicate pink color, tiny persistent bead and true-to-type raspberry aromas, this is a wine for all seasons, but especially summer. The teasingly delicate prickle of the sparkle on the tongue and the luscious raspberry flavor combine for an uplifting taste sensation. Long in the finish, the wine begs to be slowly savored. Done in stainless steel, its fruit remains fresh and vibrant. Alcohol is a low 11%. Perhaps best savored all by itself as an aperitif. Foods: Surprisingly good with chili and baked beans, barbecue, barbecued sausage, roast duck or roast pork with a red fruit glaze, fruit salads, some Asian fare perhaps, pretty nice with milk chocolate. Big Boat $20.00 2008 Wolf Mountain Vineyards Blanc de Blancs Review Date - 3/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Sparkling wine from north Georgia? You bet. This is a delightful result, too. Made entirely from Chardonnay, and done in the methode traditionelle (says owner Karl Boegner), the wines show a lovely pale yellow color, creamy dense mousse, and persistent small bead. A very clean sweet apple-pear scent leads to a similar clean palate impression focused on crisp apple and pear characters. A little touch of lemon emerges on the finish. Delicate rather than powerful, this is a terrific contribution to Georgia winemaking. Makes a good introduction to a fine brunch. Bottled with a crown cap and sealed with wax, the package is very pretty. Foods: Unsalted potato chips (Kettle brand at Whole Foods) and old-fashioned French onion dip; crab cakes; mild fish dishes, such as grilled north Georgia trout with lemon; grilled or sautéed scallops; fried cornmeal-crusted oysters; crisp fried calamari with lemon aioli; fried chicken tenders with honey mustard; Avondale cured salami from Pine Street Market in Avondale Estates; CalyRoad Creamery’s white rind Camembert-style cheese, from Roopville, GA. I’d bet on this with the Georgia caviar from Walter’s Caviar in Darien on blini with a dab of crème fraîche from Atlanta Fresh Artisan Creamery in Norcross (at Whole Foods). Empire Distributing and at the winery $26.00 Ste. Chapelle Sparkling Riesling American NV Review Date - 3/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: The designation “American” references in this case the fact that the wine was made outside the state where the winery is located. In this instance, it’s the latter, with the grapes having been grown in Idaho but vinified in California. You first notice that the wine doesn’t seem very aromatic. Too cold, then, perhaps. As it opens and warms up, the classic petrol character of Riesling makes its debut, with aromas of green apple and tart peach underlying all. The palate focuses on ginger, spice and yellow stone fruit, and the good acidity brings out the pucker factor. Mouthwatering as a result. Showing clean, fresh fruit flavors with an acid thread in the fruit that’s just right and a long finish, this sparkler takes its rightful place in the “sekt” pantheon. Foods: Lots. Sautéed soft-shell crab with a little curry powder seasoning the flour, brown butter and toasted almonds; all Asian fare, such as cold noodles with peanuts and sesame oil; moo shu pork or vegetables; steamed Korean or Chinese dumplings with Ponzu dipping sauce; shumai (Japanese dumplings). Also chilled carrot/ginger soup (hot soup doesn’t work as well); crab cakes with tartar sauce; scallops or mild fish (sea bass, fresh cod) baked in parchment paper with julienned vegetables, ginger and mirin and soy sauce; mild creamy cheeses at room temperature. Georgia Crown $10.00 2007 Quady Winery Black Muscat California Elysium Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 95 Tasting Note: Many years ago, I judged port wines with a group of port fans, and a wine made from Black Muscat was included. The poor wine was sandbagged because only I and one other judge would vote for it. It was superb. Should have gotten a medal. But snobbery issues robbed the wine of its “just desserts.” But things change: Last year Elysium won Best of Show Dessert wine and Double Gold at the California State Fair. A cross of two vinifera grapes (Schiava Grossa or Trollinger and Muscat d’Alexandria), the grape produced a famous South African dessert wine back in the 17th century. Medium-bodied with a dark blue purple color, the wine shows aromas of rose petals and dark berry fruits, such as blackberry, boysenberry and loganberry. On the palate, sweet dark fruit sits lightly on the tongue, and good acidity keeps the wine from being cloying. Serve the wine slightly cool, about 55ºF/13ºC in small tulip-shaped glasses. Alcohol is 15%. The wine comes in half (375 ml.) bottles and 750 ml. bottles, but most retailers stock the half bottle. Chocolate: Molten lava dark chocolate cake (tasted at Atlanta Grill with the still-good 2005 vintage); flourless dark chocolate cake or chocolate terrine; deep dark chocolate brownie. Other foods; Creamy blue cheeses (Saga, Cambozola, Gorgonzola dolce), pour over vanilla ice cream, and my favorite for many years a cobbler made with blue and black fruits. Just be sure not to make it too sweet. Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $15.00 J Vineyards Brut Rose Russian River Valley NV Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: The usual suspects (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay) collaborate in this beautiful salmon-hued sparkling wine made in the traditional method; that is, with the second fermentation occurring in the bottle. The vigorous bubbling quickly settles into a persistent bead with fairly small bubbles throughout. Toasty biscuit and red fruit aromas greet the nose, while on the palate fresh, lively fruit--citrus, some tropical and hints of red fruits--is backed up by brisk acidity. A sensation of tannin adds interest. The long mouthwatering finish keeps the palate refreshed and ready for the next sip. Residual sugar is pretty low (1.35%), making this a very useful food wine. Serve slightly chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in either tall flutes or white wine glasses (the trend is away from flutes for sparkling wines and Champagnes). Chocolate: BRIX 40% cacao milk chocolate; milk chocolate with spices, both hot and aromatic (see Dagoba “Xocolatl” and Vosges “Red Fire Bar,” both at Whole Foods); and perhaps my favorite: Vosges’ “Mo’s Bacon Bar,” milk chocolate with apple wood-smoked bacon and alderwood-smoked salt; probably also good with milk-chocolate-dipped red fruits (cherries,strawberries). Other foods: Pistachios (salted and roasted); lobster, shrimp or crab bisque; chicken breast poached in white wine with cream sauce; poached or baked salmon; might even try it with filet mignon. National Distributing $35.00 2007 Vina Robles Winery Petite Syrah Jardine Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Big, forward fruit wines are needed to handle the big, bold flavors of higher cacao percentage chocolate. BRIX recommends Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux and Barolo. Fine, although I’m never quite happy with Cab and chocolate, but maybe just haven’t hit on the right Cab for chocolate. Or perhaps it’s my body chemistry that begs off the match. In any event, there are other choices. Petite Sirah, for example. This one from the warm Paso Robles region is high in alcohol (+15%) but doesn’t deliver heat to the nose or throat. Instead, this big, broad boomer with a deep, dark purple red color excites with aromas of dark plums and other black fruits; a light cedar note emerges, adding interest. Moderate acidity (<6.0) and juicy, fruit-filled tannins allow dark chocolate to play nice with the flavors. The finish goes on and on, and at no time does alcohol get in the way of the pleasure. I love Petite Sirah with a bit of age on it, and this one should, says the winery, endure to 2014. I bet it goes a bit longer than that if well cellared (at 55-60ºF/13-15ºC). Serving temperature, says the winery and I concur, should be about the same; use a large tulip-shaped glass. Chocolate: Both 60% and 70% (BRIX) cacao dark chocolate went well; dark chocolate with nuts (hazelnuts; almonds; peanuts); slightly melted dark chocolate with a few gains of gray sea,, smoked or rose salt. Other foods: smoked pork (including ribs); pork loin roast with the chocolate/cocoa/spice rub; meat stews and braises; stofat or rabbit braised with spices and chocolate; mole poblano; creamy, soft blue cheeses (Cambozola). Ultimate Distributing $26.00 2007 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Bourgogne Laforet Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Milk chocolate is terrific with light-bodied dry red wines. Young Beaujolais and Pinot Noirs make perfect milk chocolate companions. Savory rather than fruit sweet, as Pinot Noir from Oregon tends to be, this medium-bodied dry red wine shows a translucent cherry red color. Delicate red fruit aromas prepare for the palate’s enjoyment of red fruit. Tannins are soft. The wine is not complicated, and the acidity seems higher than in the 2006, giving the wine the sensation of a really tart apple. Serve at cool room temperatures, about 65ºF/17ºC in wide, round glasses. Chocolate: BRIX milk chocolate; Hershey’s Krackle (milk chocolate and rice); Hershey’s Heath Bar (milk chocolate-covered toffee). Other foods: creamy liver pâté; grilled vegetables, grilled salmon, roasted pork tenderloin (pink) with mushrooms; smoked pork; with tomato-based barbecue sauce (or not as you prefer) grilled chicken breast with black bean salsa; roast chicken; creamy cheeses (Délice de Bourgogne; Cambozola). The 2006 works well, too, maybe even better, and is still available in half bottles, $15. National Distributing/Atlanta Wholesale Wine $17.00 Blandy’s Madeira Malmsey 10 Year Old NV Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Highly favored in the 19th century--and used to toast the Declaration of Independence--Madeira had fallen from grace. It’s seen a bit of a comeback in recent years, but still suffers from some sense of being “old-fashioned.” That’s a pity, because on its own, it makes a beautiful after-dinner drink. But pair it with desserts and chocolate to enjoy it on another level. This full-bodied example shows the classical dark but translucent amber color, the result of its average of 10 years in wood. The aromas suggest molasses, caramel, dried dark fruits, brown baking spices and toffee. On the palate, a luscious, viscous texture accompanies flavors of toffee and toasted nuts. Good acidity helps balance the sweetness. Grape type: Malvasia (a/k/a Malmsey). Madeira is fortified, so alcohol is substantial: 19%. Serve either at cool room temperature or slightly chilled (especially in summer) in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses, large enough to capture the aromas. No need for decanting; keeps well after being opened. Chocolate: BRIX medium dark (60% cacao); 60-65% cacao chocolate with hazelnuts, Cognac-infused, peanut butter; dark chocolate-covered caramel with sea salt; Other desserts: pound cake; biscotti; chocolate macaroon; vanilla or chocolate pudding. Empire Distributing $40.00 Kopke Fine Ruby Porto NV Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Ruby Porto, is one of the best with chocolate, especially a dark chocolate macaroon. The pairing is absolutely sybaritic. And here’s the best part: It’s the least expensive!!! This is the porto young couples still swooning at the sight of each other may want to gather up in large quantities. Full-bodied with a deep, translucent purple red color, this one offers aromas of sweet dark fruits and nuts, while on the palate lush dark fruits, spice and the taste of toffee (not its sweetness) brings the experience to a close. Well balanced, with not too much heat from the high alcohol, this Ruby Porto shows how well a Ruby Porto can do with the right foods. Germans founded this, Portugal’s oldest extant Port house, in 1638; it is Porto’s first known shipper of record. Not widely distributed in this country, Kopke is a revered name among Porto aficionados. Serve at cool room temperature, about 60-65ºF/15ºC, in small, tulip-shaped glasses. Chocolate: milk chocolate slightly melted on a round of thinly sliced toasted French bread with large-grain sea salt on top; chocolate macaroons and brownies; American Gra-Frutti’s chocolate with ground nuts; chocolate with espresso centers (The Chocolate Bar); chocolate truffles. Peach State $14.00 Mario Giribaldi Brachetto d’Acqui D.O.C. NV Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Here’s the ideal wine with chocolate fondue, invented at a New York restaurant, Chalet Suisse, back in the mid 1960s. Brachetto is the grape type, and it produces, as in this example, a light-bodied sweet sparkling wine with a translucent dark cherry color. You’ll think “cherries” again when you whiff the aromas, along with strawberries (wild ones especially) and other red fruits. On the palate, rich, full, sweet dark fruits form a luscious taste experience. As with all Brachetto-based wines, this one is low in alcohol (6.5%) and invites sipping for either aperitif purposes or dessert. Especially on a warm summer day, it would make a splendid introduction to a meal that had a lot of fruit in it or with a cold fruit-based (cherry) soup. But it also does chocolate superbly when it’s involved with fruit. Serve the wine moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in tall flutes or white wine glasses. Brachetto is not a keeper; enjoy soon after vintage. Do not cellar. Chocolate: Strawberries, cherries, red raspberries dipped in melted dark (preferably) chocolate; chocolate panna cotta with crushed fresh red fruits; chocolate fondue; chocolate fountains with fresh fruits or pound cake, lady fingers or angel food cake. Bacco Fine Wines $20.00 Val d'Orbieu Muscat de St.-Jean-de-Minervois Petit Grains NV Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: This Muscat à Petits Grains (small grapes) is a vin doux naturel made in the traditional way, with added spirits stopping fermentation and achieving an alcohol level of 15%. With intense aromas of fresh apricot and nectarine, and a medium gold/yellow color, the wine offers a palate of intense yellow stone fruits. Accents of citrus and the taste (but not the sweetness) of honey enrich the flavors. A luscious, silky texture enhances the wine. Serve in small tulip-shaped glasses very cool room temperature, about 55-60ºF;13-15ºC. Chocolate: Milk chocolate with Amarula (a South African liqueur made from cream, sugar and the fruit of the Marula tree), best pairing (the result is somewhat orangish in flavor); milk chocolate with crystallized ginger (although the pairing somewhat drives the chocolate underground); dark chocolate with orange (Lindt). Other foods: Pound cake; coconut candies; chilled poached fruits with crème anglaise; Zuppa Inglese; vanilla flavored panna cotta with fresh crushed fruits. National Distributing/Atlanta Wholesale Wine $17.00 2007 Rocland Estate Chocolate Box Shiraz Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Some folks want a wine that has chocolate notes in it to go with chocolate. Target this one, and you’ll find plenty of chocolate notes in the flavors. This full-bodied red wine with a medium, translucent cherry red color invites familiarity with its aromas of dark raspberry fruits. On the palate, raspberry picks up dark chocolate characters, and the team of flavors, with vanilla, tobacco and coffee notes enhancing the package. Acid, fruit and silky tannin all march in lockstep. The alcohol (14.5%) shows a bit in the final moments, but keeping the wine at cool room temperature (60ºF/15ºC) attenuates it a bit. Aged in used French and American oak, so not oak-driven. Potential keeper if well cellared. Use a tall tulip-shaped glass. Chocolate: Medium dark chocolate, BRIX 60% cacao; Vosges milk chocolate with bacon; dark chocolate slightly softened with large-grain gray sea salt; chocolate-influenced barbecue sauce on smoked ribs; Other foods: roast pork tenderloin dusted with coffee, dark cacao, black pepper, sea salt and five spice powder (really good); grilled lamb chop treated to the same mix; roasted or grilled duck; mole poblano (but hold the heat). Big Boat Wine Co. $14.00 2006 Marqués de la Concordia Rioja “Signa” Crianza Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Dry red wines with soft tannins and good fruit are ably paired with chocolate, but as we recall that the wine must be sweeter than the chocolate, it follows that the chocolate should be less sweet. Thus, we want to aim for a dense milk to medium dark or dark chocolate with such a wine. I found that with this wine, 45-55% cacao was just about perfect, although higher (60%) also did pretty well. Deep purple with aromas of blackberries and black raspberries, the wine offers the forward fresh fruit that New World consumers enjoy while tannins are soft, juicy and supple. Not overwhelmed with oak, it spends judicious time (18 months) in American and French barrels. The long, juicy finish has enough acidity going for it to keep the palate refreshed, eagerly anticipating the next sip. Moderate alcohol--13.5%. Use a tapered, tulip-shaped glass with a generous bowl, and serve the wine at about 60ºF/15ºC. Chocolate: Brix 40% or 60% cacao chocolate, Heath bar by Hershey (very good), milk chocolate/espresso (The Chocolate Bar); Other foods: roast pork tenderloin, roasted rack or leg of lamb dusted with coffee/cocoa powder, black pepper, sea salt and five-spice powder; roast chicken; barbecue; (ribs); steak; creamy blue cheese (Point Reyes, Cambozola). Spanish dishes with chocolate, such as rabbit stew or “estofat,” a braised Catalan dish of meat and chocolate (always use the high-cacao chocolates in these dishes, not milk chocolate). Big Boat Wine Co. $14.00 Meinhardt Vineyards Lotts Creek Muscadine NV Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Muscadine fans will find an unusual interpretation of the grape in this wine, which sips rather like a sweet fortified wine (although it’s not). Looking for all the wild world like a tawny port, the wine shows a lovely, clear reddish amber color. The aromas quickly identify the grape type, with its sweet grape characters. On the palate, the Muscadine grape flavors add dried figs and sweet date notes. It’s Muscadine through and through, so you have to like that variety to enjoy this to the fullest. But it flat, slap adores being paired with really good chocolate. Serve it just slightly chilled in a proper tulip-shaped port glass. If you have a sense of adventure or if you will approach the wine with an open palate-mind, it may yield surprising pleasure. Chocolate: milk chocolate with peanut butter (Claude’s), Cognac-infused milk chocolate truffle; medium dark chocolate (about 60%) with sea salt, chocolate with hazelnuts; Heath bar; Other foods: fruit cake; pound cake; biscotti. Meinhardt Vineyards $18.00 2006 JC Cellars Viognier Late-Harvest Ripken Vineyard Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: White chocolate isn’t, in some folks minds, a true chocolate. It has the cocoa butter but not the cacao that adds color and complexity. Ivory colored when it’s the real thing, it also doesn’t have dark chocolate’s caffeine levels. And it is a favorite of a lot of chocolate lovers. Pairing it with a white wine is the best thing to do, and this one, tasted at Cellar 56 in Buckhead, does a good job of it. This rich, full-bodied white wine with a reddish gold hue presents an intense aroma of yellow stone fruits both fresh and dried, made more complex by hints of toasted nuts. On the palate, it’s pure lusciousness, continuing the yellow stone fruit characters, and adding some brown baking spice notes to the mix. One might not think of Lodi for Viognier, but being a warm climate zone, it induces rich intensity in the grape. Perfect, really, for vinifying it in this style. This one sees about a year in oak, which I normally don’t think appropriate for Viognier, but it works in this case as doing so adds the toasted nuttiness that enhances complexity. Serve it slightly chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC in small tulip-shaped glasses. Limited supply. Chocolate: White chocolate cake or bread pudding; white chocolate fudge, “blondies,” white chocolate macadamia nut cookies. Other foods: foie gras, liver mousses, creamy blue cheeses (Gorgonzola dolce, Cambozola), blue cheese soufflé. Prime Distributors $25.00 2006 Scott Harvey Wines One Last Kiss Review Date - 2/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Blending Zinfandel (76%), Syrah and Barbera, this full-bodied dry red wine with a bright purple red color exudes initial fresh red raspberry fruit, then settles into a raft of blackberry on the palate. As the finish closes, nuances of other dark fruits come about, such as sweet dark plum and dark raisins. The wine’s enjoyment is enhanced by soft tannins and moderate (13.5%) alcohol. An ideal chocolate wine, this is rich, and full-bodied, yet balanced and should prove widely appealing. Women who complain that some red wines are “too thick” will not find that objection here. Very important to serve this at cool temperatures, about 60ºF/15ºC in a generously sized tulip-shaped glass. Flick the switch on the hot tub and pour it forth! May this NOT be your last kiss. There’s also semi-dry white that may do very well with white chocolate. Chocolate: Brix medium dark chocolate (60%); Vosges bacon milk chocolate; medium dark chocolate with spice (both hot and savory); medium dark chocolate with red fruits or with espresso (The Chocolate Bar for the latter); Other foods: lamb shoulder chop generously dusted with coffee (Café Campesino), dark cacao (Ghirardelli) powder, black pepper, sea salt and five spice powder (just a hint)--really good; pork tenderloin and Muscovy duck breast given the same treatment. Also beef/pork terrine, liver mousse; grilled chicken livers on a rosemary skewer; roast chicken; creamy blue cheeses. Big Boat $15.00 2006 JC Cellars Iron Hill Vineyard Zinfandel Sonoma Valley Review Date - 1/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Zinfandel is perhaps the ideal cold weather red for so many reasons. The grape yields wines that are typically high in alcohol--15% in this instance--with big, forward, dark and wild berry fruit flavors. This example, showing an opaque, inky dark cherry red color, opened with an aroma of saddle leather that quickly vanished yielding a slightly herbal dark and red berry fruit character. Soon, the herbal notes also disappeared, leaving behind savory ripe dark fruit. Almost Rhônish, this Zinfandel is well balanced despite the alcohol number, and delivers a masterful blackberry and blueberry fruit profile framed by firm but not harsh tannins. A Rosenblum Cellars (Zinfandel specialist) alum, Jeff Cohen graduated from Johnson & Wales in the culinary arts, and holds a bachelor’s degree from Florida International in hospitality management, and a master’s degree focused on enology from Fresno State. What more do you need to make delicious wines? Ah, passion. He’s got that, too. In 2006 he left Rosenblum to focus on JC Cellars. A potential keeper for about 5 years if well cellared. This wine is best served a little cool (to keep that alcohol under control), about 60ºF/15ºC, in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Foods: Everything in the barbecue profile (Southern style, that is). Barbecue dry rub-coated hangar steak, rare (really good); barbecue sauced meatloaf; barbecued or smoked chicken; roast chicken with black beans seasoned with a little cumin (think also black bean fritters); roasted lamb or pork rubbed with coffee, cocoa and ground red pepper; pork/chorizo stew (use Mexican chorizo); roast duck rubbed with an aromatic spice blend (allspice, cardamom, coriander seed, juniper berry); grilled ham steak; braised beef brisket; legume-based stews. Most Zins do well with chocolate; not this one, because of the finely balance character of this example. Prime $35.00 2008 Weinhaus Schloss Koblenz St. Christopher Gewürztraminer QbA Review Date - 1/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Do you think Germans (or folks in Alsace for that matter?) put away their white wines in winter? Not hardly. Many German wines go well with robust dishes, and Gewürztraminer is especially likely to do them justice. Not all Gewürztraminer is sweet, and this full-bodied example shows ample lichee nut and spice fruit aromas and flavors with a hint of orange peel while finishing crisp and dry. Medium gold in color, this is a classic Gewürztraminer, slightly off-dry with low acidity, balanced luscious fruit and moderate alcohol (10.5%). While many writers recommend Gewürztraminer with spicy food, the residual sugar in a specific wine will determine its appropriateness for spicy food; this is the ideal grape for Indian food if the sweetness and spice heat are balanced. This one doesn’t have enough residual sugar to make it work with spice heat, but yes with the mild exotic spices. Serve this wine moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Lovely as an aperitif wine, too. Foods: butternut squash-stuffed ravioli with butter and toasted hazelnuts; roasted turkey (this grape is the ideal white wine grape with turkey) or goose with apple-bread stuffing; pork butt or shoulder braised with sauerkraut, apple and bratwurst/mashed potatoes; chicken, veal or pork cutlets Marsala; sauerbraten; Moo Shoo pork or veggies; Pad Thai; satay, teriyaki or baked ham with mashed sweet potatoes or a grilled ham steak; very ripe washed rind cheeses. Would love to try this wine with Canadian bacon/pineapple pizza--never thought I would like that until my then nine-year-old niece insisted I try it. Gusto Brands $11.00 2000 Excepción Gran Reserva La Mancha Review Date - 1/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: After spending two years in American oak and three in the bottle, this medium-bodied dry red wine shows a lovely garnet red color. Made entirely from the Tempranillo grape grown in Spain’s largest wine-growing region, located in the center-east, the wine shows well-evolved fruit hinting of slight cranberry character in the aromas and flavors. But as is typical of classical Spanish wine, fruit flavors are not obvious. Despite the long time in American oak, one picks up none of the typical American oak characters, so there’s no artificial vanilla or coconut, no caramel, no aggressive flavors. Well-integrated fruit and oak show proper winemaking attention. Tannins are silky and mature. Delicious and harmonious, this Gran Reserva should be enjoyed within the next year or two. Serve cool, about 60ºF/15ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses (Riedel’s Zinfandel glass would be perfect, although the company also makes a glass just for Tempranillo). Foods: Rustic, robust dishes, such as Pisto manchego--one of the region’s classics, similar to ratatouille; rabbit or dark meat turkey cooked with peppers, onions and garlic; roasted cabrito or lamb; veal or lamb cubes cooked with peppers, tomato, onion and garlic (salpicón); meatloaf with onions and tomato sauce; shepherd’s pie; legume-based stews, such as cassoulet or fabada (a bean, sausage and ham stew from Asturias in northwestern Spain); baked corkscrew pasta or spaghetti with ground beef and tomato; picadillo; grilled sausages; pizza with tomato and sausage or pepperoni; queso manchego. Quality Wine & Spirits $17.00 2003 Cantine Benincasa Sagrantino di Montefalco Umbria Review Date - 1/1/2010 Score - 97 Tasting Note: This grape, Sagrantino, may be obscure but is certainly worth knowing: Grown around the village of Montefalco in east-central Umbria (Italy’s only landlocked region), Sagrantino is a grape that makes rich, darkly colored, robust wines--just the sort of thing you want to drink when it’s freezing outside. It also makes an alcoholic dessert wine in the passito (dried fruit) style. Only about 250 acres of it are grown, and only some two dozen wineries vinify it. Thus it’s a bit costly, but worth it in my view. Plus, I’d put it up against some of these overpriced wines people chase to satisfy their egos, and tasted blind, it would likely win. Tannic and intense in both color and flavor, this wine presents a taste sensation that’s, well, just sensational. Big but balanced, it piques interest with aromas of blackberries and spice (cinnamon). On the palate, the big dark fruit flavors gather steam adding plums and black currants to the blackberry flavors. Talk about lingering on the palate! Big, firm but not aggressive tannins support the generous fruit. Definitely not for the faint of heart, this is a wine that will please both those who like big boy juice and those who appreciate a little finesse and balance. Keep it cool, about 65ºF/17ºC, and serve it in a large tulip-shaped glass. Share only with the dearest of friends. This vintage--2003--was the year of the heat in Europe, a condition separating the pros from the amateurs in winemaking. But I see no reason why this wine, if well cellared, shouldn’t last another half dozen years or so. Aged, it will change its current purple robe for one of garnet color. Hefty alcohol (15%) doesn’t show. Foods: Rough-textured terrines; tapenade of black olives, garlic and herbs with some feta cheese; cured meats (salamis, ham) and grilled sausages; braised beef; pasta with robust meat sauces (try oxtail meat with pappardelle); game (both feathered and furred--hare with marchand de vin sauce would be smashing if you could get any of the long-eared things); meat pies--empanadas to Quebecois tourtière; roast pork; lamb shank with barley “risotto”; leg of lamb cacciatore (hunter’s style), braised chunks of lamb with herbs and white wine or with truffles (classic Umbrian cooking); rich, aged cheeses, such as Pecorino (Umbrian). Ultimate Distributors $45.00 2007 Rocland Estate Ass Kisser Red South Australia Review Date - 1/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Here’s the kind of affordable Wednesday wine we all need for these cold nights. An unusual blend of Petit Verdot (40%); Grenache (29%), Syrah (29%), and Matarao (a/k/a Monastrell/Mourvèdre), this medium-bodied dry red wine was aged for two years in French oak. A hint of toasted marshmellow hits the aromas, its sugar-rich creaminess suggesting the use of medium toast French oak. Oak is handled gently in this wine, and the clean blackberry/black currant/black plum fruit characters integrate entirely with the supple tannins and the oak. A berry-rich, long finish with some cherry notes shows none of the heat one might expect from well above 14% alcohol. Cool serving temperatures are appropriate, about 60ºF.15ºF to showcase the fruit. The winery is located in Nuriootpa (aboriginal for “meeting place“), the largest commercial center in the Barossa Valley, about an hour’s drive north of Adelaide. Lovely food wine, perhaps reflecting the Italian roots of the winery’s heritage. Great value. Foods: Coarse-textured country-style pâtés or terrines; shepherd’s pie; braised beef brisket (beautiful); braised lamb; duck with figs; grilled sausages; ground meat casseroles with tomato; meatloaf; baked spaghetti with sausage, ground meat, and tomato; mole poblano; chicken cacciatore; barbecue (ribs) with mild Georgia-style tomato-based sauce (newly opened Community BBQ in Decatur), steak rubbed with barbecue seasoning; goat Gouda; dark chocolate. Big Boat Wine Co. $12.00 2006 Terre Gaia Maretima Nero d’Avola I.G.T. Review Date - 1/1/2010 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Nero d’Avola is a grape type that is chiefly associated with Sicily, the triangular-shaped island (the largest in the Mediterranean) that the toe of the Italian boot seems to be kicking. In fact, it’s Sicily’s most important red wine grape and is indigenous to that part of Italy. Avola is a commune on the southernmost tip of Sicily. The grape, often compared to Syrah, may make wines ranging from rosati (rosés) to hefty red wines. This example hits between the two extremes, as it is a medium-bodied dry red wine with a lovely cherry red translucent color. Aromas entice with red fruits and brown spices, some black pepper and a hint of dried fruit. Soft, juicy tannins enfold rather complex red and dark fruit flavors, a mix of fresh and dried fruit characters. The very long finish is fruit dense. Good acidity. This one likes to be served cool, around 60ºF/15ºC, in medium tulip-shaped glasses. A very happy value. Foods: Great for cold weather dining, Sicilian fare is hefty on vegetables, such as caponata, a relish of finely diced eggplant, tomato and capers (I like to add celery for crunch and green olives) served on toast rounds as an aperitif; eggplant Parmigiana; braciola (stuffed, rolled steak, braised in tomato sauce); stuffed, baked green bell peppers; sausage and peppers on pasta or as a sandwich; meatloaf with tomato sauce topping; grilled veal chop or veal scaloppini in tomato sauce with mozzarella cheese; pasta with vegetable sauces; root vegetable stew with ham (or without for vegetarians); lasagna. Big Boat Wine Co. $13.00 2008 Ferraton Pere et Fils Cotes du Rhone Samorens Review Date - 1/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: The white wines of the Rhône are infrequently explored by the American consumer, some of whom assume all Rhône wines are, indeed, red. Not so. Besides whites, some are pink, too. While this wine would be lovely in summer, its minerality and clean acidity make it a great candidate for pairing with creamy dishes that involve chicken or seafood. Its medium gold color has good eye appeal, but the clean scent of white blossoms also is attractive. On the palate, the well-evolved fruit is backed up by splendid minerality, the limestone in the soil revealing itself in the taste of the wine. As the finish lingers, that minerality stays with the flavors. No malolactic fermentation. White Grenache (60%) and Clairette (40%), two white grape staples of the Rhône Valley, are coupled in this blend. This is a terrific value. Serve moderately chilled, about 50ºF/10ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shape glasses. Foods: White bean dishes; poulet Bonne Femme or chicken and dumplings; creamy crab in pastry shells (vol au vent); hearty fish fare, such as fish fillets (red snapper, scamp or fresh cod) baked with potato slices in cream, white wine and fish fumet; flounder stuffed with crab meat; shrimp and grits with a garlic cream sauce; chicken or seafood pot pie; seafood sausages with beurre blanc and mashed potatoes Con Vinum $13.00 2008 Concannon Vineyard Righteously Rosé Livermore Valley Review Date - 1/1/2010 Score - 93 Tasting Note: So you think it’s off the charts to drink a rosé in winter? Depends on the rosé. The delicate Tavels are already gone, but the more robust Rhône rosés are absolutely winter-worthy. And what about all the Southern hemisphere rosés that now are ready to drink and are in the market? We should wait until they’re worn out and tired? Not moi. If we’re jiggy with drinking white wines in winter, why not rosés in winter? If the depth of offerings in the genre at the better wine stores is any indication, consumers are beginning to agree. I found this dry rosé at Vic’s on the River in Savannah just last month. Its deep, reddish fuchsia color heralds its robust character. The grapes blend Rhône varieties (Syrah, Cinsault, and Petit Sirah) along with Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. The aromas burst with red fruit characters enhanced by some brown spices, and on the palate the red fruit picks up additional brown spice--clove, cinnamon, allspice--and lingers a good full minute. This is a delight to sip all by itself, but don’t limit it. Terrific value. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: So many! Cioppino; bouillabaisse, all manner of warming soups, including Manhattan clam chowder (in tomato), hearty Chinese fare with pork, beef, duck, lamb or chicken; barbecue (including Korean and Chinese, but not Memphis dry rub style); Cajun fare; baked beans; red beans and rice with andouille (or without); smoked chicken, fajitas; chicken or rabbit cacciatore; rabbit or dark meat turkey with prunes and sun-dried tomatoes; beef or pork curry (not too spicy); meatloaf covered with tomato sauce; baked spaghetti with ground beef/pork and tomato; polenta with tomato sauce; couscous or tagine (hold the harissa!). So who cares if it’s sleeting out there? National Distributing $12.00 2008 Rodney Strong Chardonnay Sonoma County Review Date - 1/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: When I choose to extol a California Chardonnay, you know it’s got to be good. Not buttery. Not lacking acidity. Not oak juice. Once a dancer with George Balanchine having trained at the School of American Ballet, the late Rodney Strong and his wife Charlotte decided upon winegrowing in the 1950s when, as he told me, they were in Paris having come to grips with aching legs and feet and facing the realization they couldn’t dance much longer. Not a bad second act, huh? A full-bodied but well-balanced Chardonnay showing a medium pale yellow color, this example exhibits aromas of lemon drop and zesty apple, characters that continue on the palate. Lively acidity and fruit linger, engaging the palate for perhaps a full minute. Gentle hints of toasty oak enhance the fruit. Yet not so much that the palate becomes fatigued. Oak and fruit are beautifully integrated. This warrants solo sipping, yet will accompany a wide variety of foods. French and American oak barrels are at work here, but just 70% is done in oak and that briefly (5 months). The rest is kept in stainless steel. Only 70% went through malolactic fermentation, so acidity is kept lively. Serve it at cool temperatures, about 55ºF/13ºC, and I prefer a round Burgundy glass for big Chardonnays. You might even decant this one for about 30 minutes before serving, as it evolves nicely, becoming increasingly complex. Terrific value, too. Foods: chicken/pesto pizza with mozzarella cheese (Whole Foods); flounder stuffed with crab meat; baked scamp, fresh cod or similar thick fillet stuffed with shrimp or crab meat and crumbs; coquille St. Jacques with butter sauce and piped mashed potatoes; baked halibut with beurre blanc; pasta dishes with creamy seafood sauces, and perhaps a hit of saffron; risotto Milanese; chicken pot pie; vegetable ragoût with cumin; creamy goat cheese. This one actually might handle poulet à la crème. Empire Distributors $15.00 2008 Pellegrino Marsala Superior Dry Review Date - 1/1/2010 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Said to have been the favorite drink of the Duke of Wellington, Marsala has been damaged by bad products and the presence on American shelves of “cooking” Marsala. Well, news flash: It’s not just for cooking. And if you do use it for cooking (dry only, please), make sure it’s NOT the so-called “cooking” wine, which contains added salt and is not quality wine to begin with. The grapes are Catarratto (the second most widely planted white wine grape in Italy) and Grillo in equal proportions. The golden-edged amber color appeals to the eye as much as the warming toffee/nutty aromas entice the nose. Dried fruits dominate the palate--dried apricots, dates, figs. These same flavors guide the food pairing. Alcohol is high, about 18%, as this is a fortified wine. Serve at cool room temperature as an aperitif with nuts and mature, firm cheeses. As dessert, chill slightly. In either case serve in small tulip-shaped glasses. The best types are Superiore and Vergine, the latter not apparently available here. With dessert, choose a simple, not-too-sweet cookies, biscotti with almond and orange-peel flavors; American Gra-Frutti’s Almond Angels, coconut-enclosed almonds (these are gluten-free and vegan ok by the way) and “It‘s Not Fruit Cake* Berry Wonderful“; toasted (or not) pound cake; apple tart in an almond crust; marzipan, dried fruits/nuts/aged firm cheeses, and (gush) Heath bars. Might be nice with a rich, creamy seafood bisque. Don‘t forget to light the fire!!! By the way, you know why that old chestnut beef Wellington is so called? Because there’s Marsala in the sauce for the dish, a piece of tenderloin topped with duxelles of mushrooms and wrapped in puff pastry, then baked. Popular in the 70s, when I had it at now-closed Lutèce in New York, it’s fallen from grace. Pity, too. National Distributing Co. $18.00 2006 Vina Robles Winery Syrée Paso Robles Review Date - 1/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Paso Robles is home to big wines, the sort that requires cold weather to enjoy to the fullest. Big, robust and extracted, this dry red wine is a blend of Syrah (84%) and Petite Sirah (16%). The wine pleases the eye with a nearly opaque ruby red color. Still young and tight, Syrée shows aromas of blackberry and black cherry. On the palate, lovely, but firm, tannins enclose rich, dark fruits. Tannins will soften with time, as this is still a youngster. Decant a couple of hours ahead of serving, perhaps using a Vinturi to get it well evolved for current drinking. A little heat catches you in the lower throat., but it’s not excessive. Notes of dark bittersweet chocolate and spice enhance complexity. The wine is aged separately for 12 months in French oak, then is blended and spends another 6 months in oak before being bottled. Serve at cool temperatures, about 65ºF/17ºC in large tulip-shaped glassware. This is not a wine for delicate palates; yet, it’s rather well balanced as well as rich. Likely will keep if well cellared for a decade. Foods: meat pies; robust terrines; Catalan rabbit or pork with sherry, dark chocolate and cinnamon, served with potatoes and grilled butifarra sausages (substitute any white garlicky sausage or order from tienda.com); braised short ribs with garlic and red wine, mashed potatoes or root vegetable medley; smoked pork loin with dark chocolate-based barbecue sauce; pork and chorizo stew with tomato and garlic; mole poblano with turkey or rabbit; furred game; grilled bone-in steak; slightly softened bittersweet dark chocolate with gray salt on top (swoon!). Ultimate Distributors $40.00 2007 Peterson Winery Zero Manipulation Mendocino Review Date - 1/1/2010 Score - 90 Tasting Note: The term zero references the winery’s lack of manipulation of this wine. Old -vine Carignane (pronounced Cahr-eee-gnyan if you’re French; car-eh-gun-ANN if you’re one of those old-line California Italian vintners) forms the foundation of this very good value California red wine (82%) from the legendary Tollini Vineyard in Mendocino. Another 6% is Petite Sirah (what the old timers called “Pets”), also from the Tollini Vineyard in Mendocino‘s Redwood Valley. The balance is from Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley, evenly split between Zinfandel and Syrah. I do so love fruit salad, and this is lovely fruit salad. The blend is seamless, a full-bodied but balanced red wine with a nearly opaque inky purple red color. Lively plum and dark berry aromas with touches of vanilla and cinnamon introduce like flavors that finish in a burst of red fruit. Supple tannins, a delightful juiciness, and well-integrated oak and fruit (can’t believe this was partly done in American oak) are hallmarks of this excellent value. Moderate alcohol: 13.4%. Best when served slightly cool, about 65ºF/17ºC, in medium tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Well-seasoned dishes; slightly spicy grilled duck breast with sweet potato; pasta dishes with braised meats; legume-based dishes with or without meat; meat pies; braised short ribs with root vegetables; root vegetable stew with pancetta or ham (or vegetarian if you prefer); empandas or other meat-filled pies; posole (a Southwestern American stew); meatloaf with tomato sauce; shepherd’s or cottage pie; beef or chicken fajitas; rich, aged cheeses (Morbier; Manchego). Ultimate Distributors $15.00 Pol Roger Rich Champagne Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Pol Roger is the Champagne house that kept Sir Winston Churchill in fighting form throughout the difficult war years. He named a race horse “Pol Roger.” And in turn Pol Roger named a wine after Sir Winston following his death. This non-vintage “Rich” Champagne was not around when Sir Winston was singing the praises of this fine, old Champagne House. With 34 grams/liter of sugar in the dosage, this is not a Brut. Instead, it’s somewhere between a sec and a demi-sec. It’s deep golden color and vigorous, tiny bubbles invite investigating the aromas, which lean toward dried apricots and caramel,with a touch of toasted brioche. The flavors burst with rich intensity, and stay focused on dried yellow fruits, including hints of pineapple, mango and papaya. The sweetness is balanced by good acidity, so the palate is refreshed with each sip. The complexity all the way through to the conclusion is compelling; the finish is clean and mouth-watering. Serve chilled, about 45ºF/7-8ºC, in tall flutes (although I like mine a little warmer to show up the flavors). Grapes: Equal parts Pinot Noir; Chardonnay; Pinot Meunier. .Foods: Grilled seafood with spicy sauces, such as rémoulade; elegant Asian fare focused on seafood or chicken. Desserts (keep them simple): pound cake with sabayon sauce or crème anglais; poached chilled pears with crème anglaise, simple cookie; vanilla-scented puddings; crème brûlée (classical style with vanilla); soft triple-cream cheeses, such as Délice de Bourgogne or Saint André. Not a caviar wine whatsoever. Grapefields $70.00 2006 Konzelmann Estate Winery Pinot Blanc-Weissburgunder Off-Dry Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 89 Tasting Note: A winery that started out over 100 years ago near Stuttgart, Germany, in the 1980s found itself re-established on the shores of Lake Ontario, where the fourth generation of the family has continued the winemaking tradition. Other than ice wines, it’s rare to find a Canadian wine in these parts,, although I remember buying routinely the Inniskillin Chardonnay years back. The wine shows a medium pale gold color. Lively fruit aromas recall exotic apples (Fuji/Gala/Braeburn), a sensation that leads to the palate’s ripe, rich, juicy fruit character, dominated by pear and apple characters, and underpinned by good minerality and acidity. For the latter two reasons, the wine does not taste particularly sweet, despite the “off-dry” on the label. The finish lingers, keeping the fruit active on the palate and allowing the minerality to take over at the end., when a chalky earthiness emerges. Like biting into a crisp exotic apple. What residual sugar there may be contributes mostly to the roundness of the texture. Both 2006 and 2007 vintages are in stock. Serve not too cold, about 55-60ºF/14-15ºC. Foods: chicken fingers with honey-mustard sauce; lemon-pepper anything; pork with sautéed apples and onions; light curry chicken or shrimp salad; chicken thighs roasted on a bed of onions and garlic; roast turkey breast with apple stuffing (hold the sage); baked apple or Vidalia onion stuffed with sweet potato purée; ravioli stuffed with butternut squash or pumpkin, butter sauce, toasted pine nuts Ultimate Distributors $14.00 2005 Lava Cap Winery Petite Sirah El Dorado County Granite Hill Vineyard Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Petite Sirah, no kin to Syrah or Shiraz, is known as Durif in some parts of the world, notably Australia, where it’s grown (although in limited quantities) in Rutherglen, just north of Melbourne. A Rhône varietal, Petite Sirah has its enthusiastic advocates in California, whose old Italian vintners often called it “Pets.” Deep, dark, with spicy black fruits, it’s a long-lived varietal, with many examples easily clocking 10 years if well cellared. (And sometimes, as in my house, even when NOT well cellared.) This example easily has that potential. Its deep, delicious fruit and juicy tannins outline a tasty wine that, while still somewhat closed when first opened, has much to recommend it. An initial impression of raisined fruit and spice may indicate some Zinfandel blended in, although most of the spice would come from oak. Despite hefty alcohol (14.9%), the wine doesn’t register any heat. Ripe, rich and concentrated, but not clumsy, it would benefit from being decanted about a half hour before being served or consider using a Venturi aerator when pouring it into the decanter. Evolves quickly, acquiring some complexity and depth. Fruit, sweet oak, acidity, tannins are all nicely integrated. A frequent award winner in its genre. Serve moderately cool, about 65ºF/17ºC, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Coffee-and-chocolate-and-spice-coated lamb steak (good, too, on duck, pork loin, venison, elk); picadillo; rilletes made with pork or red meat; prime rib; mole poblano; braised red meat with some spice; mature cheeses; dark chocolate. Continental Beverage $35.00 Lucien Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace Brut Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: The term “crémant” once was applied to a particular style of sparkling wine. But as Champagne producers sought to govern Champagne producers’ protection of the term Champagne, crémant became the norm for traditionally made sparkling wine produced outside of Champagne--namely in Alsace, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and elsewhere. Here is a fine value sparkling wine that delivers a lot of value for the money. Made from Pinot Blanc and Pinot Auxerrois, the wine is a medium-bodied, pale gold sparkling wine with a fine bead. Delicate fruit aromas greet the nose, with fresh fruit accents of pear and light citrus. The bead is small and persistent. On the palate, the wine is elegant, refined and refreshing, with a long finish that shows good acidity. Fine balance. The grapes are entirely from Orschwihr in southern Alsace. Serve at 45-50ºF/7-10ºC. Previously reviewed here, the Lucien Albrecht brut rosé is stellar. Foods: Baked fish, seafood, light appetizers (tiny crab cakes; small savory tarts; walnut-sized potatoes stuffed with potato, sour cream and chive); cream soups; poulet à la crème. Not for caviar. Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $20.00 2007 Skouras Chardonnay Greece Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: In a world drowning in Chardonnay, why does Greece have to add to the mix? (A question I posed once to a Greek wine producer while attending VinExpo in Bordeaux.) Well, here’s one good reason: This example is distinctive, with clear minerality, a lovely stoniness, and very delicious fruit. For your Chardonnay maniac friends, this wine would provide a departure from the heavily oaked, buttery, acidless examples so many people think define Chardonnay, for good or for ill depending on the individual’s point of view. Dry with a medium yellow color, it shows intense aromas of tropical fruits (pineapple) and citrus. On the palate, the wine picks up complexity from that delightful stony minerality. This Chardonnay sees 70% stainless steel fermentation, with 30% fermented in new French oak on the lees (dead yeast cells). But oak contact is brief, just six months. So fruit and oak are well integrated. Very nicely done. Winemaker George Skouras is a graduate of the oenology program at Dijon, so knows a thing or two about making Chardonnay. Serve moderately chilled, 50-55ºF/10-13ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Ready to drink now; might decant about 20-30 minutes ahead of serving. Foods: Baked or raw oysters, calamari with lemon aioli, fried seafood with tartar sauce; Greek appetizers such as skordalia (a purée of potatoes, lemon juice and garlic); stuffed grape leaves; spanikopita; herb-and-olive oil-marinated feta cheese; saganaki (the flaming cheese dish). United Distributors $17.00 2007 Servin Chablis Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Someone I know years ago used to think of Chablis as sweet, ugly-tasting American plonk. I’ve always thought the Chablis producers had a real case to make in griping about how such products damaged their brand. She was proof. Well, that’s fixed. A few weeks ago, she bought an entire case of this Chablis! As prices shoot upward on Chablis, this is a major bargain and a great value. Medium- full-bodied with a bright pale yellow color. Aromas fairly leap out of the glass, bringing lime blossom and peel among other citrus characters. The flavors are just amazing, with citrus characters and a lovely stony minerality for added interest. Lively, with bright acidity, the wine was vinified in stainless steel. This is the polar opposite of fat, unctuous, buttery California Chardonnays, a style that turns off a fair number of consumers. You won’t even think it’s the same grape. Serve moderately cooled, about 50ºF/10ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Simply prepared seafood, grilled scallops with a white wine butter sauce; poached or steamed mild white fish (sole, flounder, tilapia), crab cakes (simple crab meat with a little bread crumb, no aggressive seasonings); seafood terrines on a creamy sauce with minced chives. Con Vinum $27.00 2007 Bodegas Garci Grande Verdejo Rueda Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: My one and only visit to this part of Spain was largely spent in a lab at the Consejo Regulador, which governs what wines may wear the appellation’s label. That day, tasting through a raft of white Rueda wine (they DO make some reds and even rosados), I came to understand what they were looking for in approving which wines would carry the D.O.’s label. This one comes with all the classic characters, using 50-50 Verdejo (vair-DAY-ho) and Viura (vee-UR-ah) grapes, the latter successfully tempering the hefty grapefruit character one often finds in 100% Verdejo wines. Dry, showing a medium pale straw color, with aromas that forecast the minerality to come, the wine presents well-evolved fruit and plenty of earthiness and mineral character in the palate. Don’t get this for folks who favor fruit bombes. It’s not going to work for them. Instead, drop this dime (well it’s not THAT cheap) on friends who tend to prefer European wines. The flinty/chalky minerality proves positively compelling sip after sip, and lingers through the long finish. Serve moderately chilled, about 50ºF/10ºC, in moderately sized tulip-shaped glasses. Great value. Foods: oysters with lemon; deep-fried seafood or fish with tartar sauce; grilled scallops; shrimp with garlic and olive oil; grill-cooked trout with fresh herbs in the belly cavity, goat cheese (awesome!); potato-parmesan cakes (great with fish and other morsels); chicken croquetas, chilled mussels with garlic mayonnaise; seafood skewers, crab cakes United Distributors $12.00 2008 Attems Cupra Ramato Pinot Grigioi Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Everybody’s wild about Pinot Grigio; however, this is a different animal within the genre. First of all, the better Pinot Grigio-based wines, like this one, come from northern climates, where cold weather keeps acid levels high. Pinot Grigio and Pinot Blanc both are mutations of Pinot Noir, but it’s Pinot Grigio that sometimes can produce wines with a slightly coppery color. This example, with a delicate pale salmon tinge, is a dry medium-bodied wine with aromas that suggest wild strawberries and other red fruits. On the palate, the red fruit profile acquires complexity, adding minerality and a slight bramble character. Thanks to good acidity--something you typically don’t find in Pinot Grigio from the Veneto--the long, clean finish is most gratifying. As the wine warms up, it seems to gather complexity and spice in the process. Serve moderately chilled, perhaps at 55ºF/13ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Light antipasti that are vegetable based, says the winery, but we would add foods with some spice, even mild heat, such as bacon-wrapped roasted turkey breast; slightly spicy andouille sausage, grilled; dry grilled wild-caught salmon; dry-grilled shrimp with rémoulade sauce; teriyaki (doesn’t matter what protein you use)--perhaps the best pairing of all. In fact, I would bet on it with a number of Japanese dishes, such as tonkatsu (deep-fried pork cutlet). Nothing with a sweet sauce though as the wine is dry. United Distributors $18.00 2006 Giant Wine Company Sinner's Punch Red Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Talk about a wine that has me scratching my head. Why? Because it’s striking me as over-extracted, high in alcohol (14.5%), and quite a bit of a fruit bomb. Perfect, now that I think of it, for the initiate wine enthusiast. This is a 21-something’s wine in a sense, as the deep, dark color, intense dark fruit perfume, and forward fruit leap out of the glass. Rather like a painting of bright colors and dazzling images, it seduces and demands attention. Is this my favorite kind of wine? No, not really. It’s big and powerful, but its tannins are restrained, supple and juicy. The problem? It doesn’t do all that well with food. As a cocktail wine, it’s quite nice, if that’s your notion of a cocktail. Get some air into the wine by decanting it before serving, about a half hour at least. At this point, the bottle has been open four hours, and it’s just now beginning to develop some interest. Serve cool, about 65ºF/17ºC, and use a large tulip-shaped glass. Foods: Spicy big dishes, even with some heat, such as mole poblano; Cajun deep-fried turkey; grilled andouille; grilled duck breast; coffee-and-cocoa rubbed grilled lamb steak or pork loin; very possibly pork barbecue with a tomato-based sauce Ultimate Distributors $20.00 2005 Château Martinat Côtes de Bourg Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: In Bordeaux, the other side of the river (the Gironde) shelters small(er) chateaux still occupied as homes by real people who make wine for a living, not corporations. Here Merlot rules, so at Château Martinat, it’s the major component (70%) with some Malbec and Cabernet Franc. This medium-bodied well-balanced dry red wine shows a nearly opaque purple red color. Initial aromas capture an appealing earthiness, a bit animal and another bit compost, that keep your nose firmly in the glass, then evolve, soon capturing cedar characters. As the wine opens, lovely, juicy fruit flavors grab the palate, led by red raspberry (it IS mostly Merlot, after all). Tannins are firm, but not harsh, and play very nice with the fruit. The long finish carries all these components--fruit, tannin, acid--to a most delicious conclusion. These quite tasty tannins linger through the finish, ensuring that the wine should keep a good half-dozen years more at least if well cellared. Meanwhile, decant before serving at cool temperatures, about 65ºF/17ºC, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Very fine value. Foods: Lots. When they say “barbecue” in Côtes de Bourg, they mean “grilling.” Agreed!. Grilled steak, ribs, duck, rack or leg of lamb, lamb steak rubbed with coffee and cocoa powder, some exotic spices, still pink, pork tenderloin; shepherd’s pie; prime rib with Parmesan mashed potatoes; teriyaki; rosemary-roasted chicken; roasted or grilled vegetables; rich meat-centered stews; grilled veal chop stuffed with ham and Fontina cheese; aged, full-flavored cheeses; quite dark chocolate. Hemispheres $38.00 2005 Stewart Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Looking for an impressive California Cabernet Sauvignon without reaching to triple digits? Here’s a serious piece of work (Paul Hobbs is the consulting winemaker) from a family-owned and -run operation. Odds are you might actually prefer it to some of the big name options if you tasted them side by side. While initially tight and quite closed, this opaque deep purple red wine soon yields a warming spice component that enhances intense dark fruit aromas. Sweet black fruit seems monochromatic at first, but yields coffee and dark chocolate characters. Even red raspberry emerges from the welter of black fruit flavors. Tannins are spot on. The long finish and fleshy grace of this intense, fruit-expressive wine would appeal to a wide audience. Mostly new French oak lends spice to the mixture. Grapes are a blend of fruit from three excellent vineyards: Stagecoach; Beckstoffer IV, and State Lane. Anybody out there remember those magnificent State Lane Cabs that Beringer used to produce back in the 1980s? You get the picture. Big but not clumsy. Serve at a slightly cool-to-the-touch temperature, about 65ºF/17ºC, so point up the fruit. And by all means decant several hours ahead of serving. This one is a good keeper if well cellared. Days after being opened, the wine still tasted true. Foods: Rich, dense liver pâté; filet mignon with a slice of pâté or poached beef marrow on top; prime rib with Parmesan whipped potatoes; grilled breast of duck rubbed with five-spice powder; roast duck; rack of lamb or lamb steak (cut from the leg) rubbed with cocoa powder and coffee, exotic spices; smoked beef brisket. Hemispheres $62.00 2005 Château de Cosse Sauternes Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 89 Tasting Note: This younger sibling to Château Riussec is an excellent value in the genre. While it doesn’t show the complexity nor will it cellar as long as the big brother, it’s a very fine Sauternes for the money. It spends less time in the barrel than the big brother, but enough: 18-20 months. And, of course, 2005 is an outstanding vintage. Grapes are Sémillon (70%), Muscadelle and Sauvignon Blanc--the usual blend for a Sauternes. Full-bodied with a bright medium gold color, the wine presents lovely aromas of dried apricots, which carry through the palate to the finish. Good acidity engages the palate and propels the finish, in addition to cleansing the palate between sips. Nothing cloying about this wine at all. Decant just before serving to allow flavors to develop, and serve at 50ºF;10ºC, in small tulip-shaped glasses. From Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite). Foods: Foie gras; bleu cheese soufflé. Simple desserts, poached pears with crème anglaise; sautéed pear with creamy blue cheese; simple cookie, pound cake. Try Marilyn Santulli’s Almond Angels (American Gra-Frutti), which are gluten free, organic, vegan ok, and sweetened with agave. Delightful pairing! Winery suggests breast or shoulder of veal with orange juice and star anise. Having done veal short ribs in orange juice (but no star anise), I’m eager to try this one. See the web site for a recipe: www.lafite.com. Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $24.00 Jacques Pelvas Blanc de Blancs Brut NV Review Date - 12/1/2009 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Tug along to a party that will serve robustly flavored foods a bottle (or perhaps a case--it’s affordable) of this sparkler from France. All done up in traditional dressing and closure, the wine shows a pale gold color. Aromas offer a tangle of aromatic fruits, some Asian pear apple, a hint of ginger, while on the palate, the wine presents a spicy golden fruit character. The finish is quite persistent, with fruit lingering on the palate a good full minute. Good acidity leaves the palate clean and promises good food companionability. Modest alcohol, about 11.5%. Bubbles are reasonably small, although the mousse is not especially enduring. Serve chilled, about 45ºF/7-8ºC, and use flutes, even if they’re cheap ones or (horrors) plastic. Well-seasoned foods: Asian fare, wings, cocktail taquitos, teriyaki chicken skewers; cocktail potatoes with sour cream, smoked salmon and chives; salt-and-pepper shrimp, dim sum; cold noodles with peanut sauce; spicy chicken or seafood dishes; shumai (Japanese dumplings) filled with pork, Ponzu dipping sauce; gyoza (Korean dumplings) filled with pork or chicken; Chinese barbecue; fried chicken fingers with honey mustard sauce Big Boat $11.00 2007 Chateau Roustan Costières de Nîmes Review Date - 11/1/2009 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Until recently (2004), this AOC region in southeastern France was part of the Languedoc-Roussillon, to which it belongs geographically. But its growers felt the wine styles they produced more appropriately resembled Rhône wines, so petitioned a change that was granted in 2004, and today are governed by the Rhône committee. Producing mostly reds, the region surrounds the old and intriguing city of Nîmes (which gave us denim--De Nîmes) and has been producing wines for more than 2,000 years. The rosés from this region are reliably delectable, because the reds are so good. In this example we see the typical red wine of the AOC: medium-bodied and dry, with a deep, nearly opaque purple red color. The aromas show intense floral and red fruit characters, while flavors pick up spice and licorice dimensions. Tannins are soft. Grapes: Syrah 50%; Grenache 30%; Mourvèdre 20%. Important: chill slightly to bring out the fruit flavors, about 60-65ºF;15-17ºC, and serve in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: creamy chicken liver mousse with black peppercorns; grilled duck breast (especially) or roast duck; game birds (dove, pheasant); roast turkey; roasted vegetable stew with pancetta; mild cheeses Big Boat $13.00 2008 Domaine Courtois Côtes du Rhône La Source Review Date - 11/1/2009 Score - 87 Tasting Note: The grapes of the Rhône Valley in France can produce big, dramatic wines that might be too much for turkey. But Côtes du Rhône supplies a little more gentleness, certainly not quite the dramatic fruit one might find in the higher AOCs, but not the dramatic prices either. Made from Grenache (80%) and Syrah (20%), this example is a winner in the price/value department. Medium-bodied, with a translucent dark cherry red color, the wine offers plenty of rich, dark cherry fruit, but not the primary character one finds in American wines. Here, much more restrained, evolved fruit flavors blend with some spice to yield a very useful wine with a wide variety of foods. Soft tannins, moderate alcohol (13%), and respectable mid-palate and finish lead this to the turkey list with considerable style. Especially for the money. Serve moderately cool, about 60-65ºF/15-17ºC, in large, tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Mushroom caps stuffed with crumbs and bits of ham, fresh herbs; roast turkey with sausage stuffing; grilled breast of duck or roast duck with Muscadine preserves or Muscadine glaze and raisin bread stuffing. Big Boat $11.00 2008 Chilensis Pinot Noir Maule Valley Review Date - 11/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: A Pinot Noir is a terrific pairing with turkey, although the style chosen needs to de-emphasize cherries in favor of more savory flavors and lean toward the earthy drama of the genre. That’s what happens with this one, from Maule Valley in Chile. Medium-bodied with a medium red cherry color, it shows aromas of dried herbs and delicate red cherry fruits, all of which carry over to the palate, where fairly supple tannins prevail. There’s no missing what genre of wine this is, and the price point will keep crowds of happy guests amazed at the quality. Yet the price won’t break the bank. Serving temperature, 60-65ºF/15-18ºC. Foods: Roast dark and white meat of turkey and a classic bread/celery dressing; roast duck or Cornish hen with raisin bread stuffing; game birds; pork tenderloin stuffed with a whole wheat dressing, celery and toasted nuts; also to begin, pâté, pork or duck rillets; leftovers: turkey croquets or turkey hash with sweet potatoes. Big Boat $13.00 2008 Lucien Albrecht Gewurztraminer Alsace Reserve Review Date - 11/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Gewürztraminer may well be the best white wine with turkey, whether with white or dark meat. The grape (pronounced geh-VURTS-trah-mee-ner) may be difficult to say and a bit of a challenge for novice consumers, but once you get the hang of it, you’ll love its food companionability. Alsace, in northeast France on the border with Germany and Switzerland, may well be the grape’s best natural terroir. This full-bodied white wine is dry yet presents the classic exotic aromas and flavors one expects in the type. Exuberant aromas of rose petals, spice and lichee nut introduce similar characters in the flavor profile. From time to time, some tropical notes seem to emerge, such as papaya. Compelling, complex and long on the palate, the wine is rich and flavorful, with a touch of the aroma and taste (but not the sweetness) of honey for added interest. To explore this grape in some depth, visit Café Alsace in Decatur. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/ 13ºC in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Smoked salmon; roast turkey, chicken or Cornish game hen with cous cous stuffing and dried fruits; smoked turkey (really yummy); pumpkin, sweet potato or butternut squash casserole with ginger and brown spices; well-aged French Münster (smashing!); creamy turkey over pasta or in pastry shells; curried turkey; composed turkey fruit salad. Other foods: Choucroute garni; grilled bratwurst with sauerkraut; braised pork shoulder with kraut and mashed potatoes, wild game; all the Indian food you can stand, provided it’s not too spicy hot. Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $22.00 2008 Potel-Aviron Beaujolais Villages Review Date - 11/1/2009 Score - 89 Tasting Note: So much fuss gets made over Beaujolais Nouveau, released each third Thursday in November, that the real McCoy seems to get lost in the shuffle. If you can find a Beaujolais Villages, a cut above a wine just labeled Beaujolais, so much the better as its grapes come from any of 30 villages. To be a proper Beaujolais enthusiast, you’ll get a cru Beaujolais, whose grapes come from 10 specific villages. But those can be tough to find, so let’s look at this Beaujolais Villages for a well-priced, fine-tasting piece of work. A joint project between Nicolas Potel and Stephane Aviron, this wine is a light-bodied dry red wine showing a lovely purple red color. The aromas immediately reveal the customary whole berry fermentation (a/ka carbonic maceration), with bright red raspberry fruit and hints of brown baking spices. On the palate, the fresh red fruit character is mouth filling and lingers on the palate. All red Beaujolais is made from the Gamay Noir à jus blanc grape, which isn’t very tannic. (Whites are mostly Chardonnay, and rosé is a growing category.) Only 500 cases of this one come to the U.S. Very important: Best served slightly chilled, about 55-58ºF/13-14ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses, it’s the stuff of French bars and bistros. Do not cellar. Foods: mild salamis such as rosette de Lyon, smoked turkey or chicken (singularly yummy); roasted Cornish hen; ok with duck, roast chicken or turkey with sausage dressing; composed salads; fried chicken Grapefields $15.00 2007 Chamisal Pinot Noir Edna Valley Review Date - 11/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Being fond of Central Coast Pinot Noir, I had an idea this one would do splendidly with all the birds I would fly at it. Boy was I right!!! Not being a fan of overly fruity, cherry-bombish Pinot Noir, I prefer a more savory approach to the wine. And this fills that bill perfectly. Medium-bodied, concentrated, but not over-the-top, this Pinot Noir shows all its feminine side while presenting aromas of black cherry, spice and that dried herb character that’s so elusive in American Pinot Noir. On the palate, black cherry fruit continues with added interest from brown baking spices. Backing up these characters are round tannins, a long finish and a definitive Pinot Noir character. One drawback: a bit of heat from alcohol (14.5%), but rich foods will balance against this and so will serving at the proper temperature, about 60-65ºF/15-17ºC. Use a medium-sized round-shaped glass. Foods: creamy live pâté; roast duck or grilled breast of duck with raisin bread stuffing, and Muscadine glaze or preserves in place of cranberry sauce; roast turkey also with Muscadine preserves; roast chicken; roasted or grilled Cornish hen glazed with Muscadine jam; chestnut purée, sweet potato gratin or savory pumpkin soufflé. Other foods: rabbit with tomato and dried fruits; grilled wild-caught salmon; root vegetable stew. Ultimate Distributors $38.00 2002 Chateau de Jau Grand Roussillon Review Date - 11/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: The fortified wines of France’s east coast are delicious treats, and many will do wonderfully with holiday desserts. This example, made entirely of Grenache Blanc, is a full-bodied sweet white wine with a bright reddish copper color. The aromas supply dried yellow fruit characters--apricot especially--and bitter orange (Seville orange) marmalade. Orange marmalade flavors also inform the palate, where the intensity and the fruit linger appreciably. Complex, well balanced, lingering, the wine has enough acidity to keep it from being cloying. This vineyard is located in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Alcohol is hefty, 16%, so pour lightly into small tulip-shaped glasses and serve slightly chilled, about 65ºF/17ºC. Foods: Aperitif with foie gras or creamy chicken liver mousse; goat cheese; Dessert: cheesecake; creamy blue cheeses; pumpkin desserts with ginger, cinnamon, allspice, etc.; pecan pie (kidding not); dark chocolate but cocoa no more than about 55-65% cacao; apple tart; simple cookie Atlanta Wholesale Foods/NDC $24.00 Mumm Napa Brut Rosé Review Date - 11/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Nothing begins a holiday meal better than bubbles. Being partial to brut rosé, I tend to seek them out as they enable pairings with so many different foods. This example is a crisp, medium-bodied dry sparkling wine with a lovely rosey gold color. Aromas invite with clean red fruit characters, a gathering of fragrant strawberry, red cherry and red plum. On the palate, clean, crisp red fruits present a robust flavor profile. The good acidity cleanses the palate, reading it for the next bite of food. Moderate alcohol: 12.5%. A fine balance of fruit and acid keeps the finish on the palate. Serve chilled, 45-50ºF/7-10ºC, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: duck or salmon rilletes; porchetta slices with cold tuna mayonnaise; raw tuna with Asian seasonings; beef or tuna tataki; Asian dumplings (shumai, Korean gyoza); sushi roll; chicken satay; smoked salmon; smoked trout salad with shaved onions and red radishes; smoked turkey on toast rounds with aioli. Winery says caviar, but that would depend on which sort. Ikura (salmon caviar) may do very well with this wine. United Distributors $20.00 2008 Valley of the Moon Winery Pinot Blanc Sonoma County Review Date - 11/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: As a Chardonnay alternative, little beats Pinot Blanc, especially when made in the Alsace style: delicately aromatic; round; with good fruit sweetness (some residual sugar) and a crisp finish. Alsace examples typically aren’t done in wood, nor are Italian versions, known as Pinot Bianco. (Germany calls this grape Weissburgunder.) But American versions often do use oak, as does this example. With its medium golden straw color, the wine offers fruit aromas that suggest guava, Fuji apple, pears, and Asian pear-apples; on the palate, a note of brown baking spices is added to this mix. Good acidity balances against some (.46) residual sugar. After stainless steel fermentation at cool temperatures--keeping the fruit flavors intact--portions were aged in French oak and Acacia wood, but wood is not a dominant character. Serve moderately chilled, about 50-55ºF/10-13ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: seafood; mild cheeses; onion tart; composed salads with white meats, fruit and some spice; Asian fare; rolled breast of turkey wrapped in bacon and roasted; roasted turkey breast with classic bread/celery stuffing, apple stuffing or oyster dressing (hold the dried herbs); smoked turkey breast; turkey pot pie. National Distributing $17.00 2008 Bonterra Rosé Mendocino County Review Date - 11/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Nothing brings so much light and liveliness to the table than a dry rosé, and especially on Thanksgiving. No matter how you cook that bird, a rosé offers the kind of food flexibility that enables it to pair well with turkey. This example shows a lovely bright pink-red rose color; intense aromas of assorted red fruits pour from the glass. You’ll find cherries, red raspberries, red currants, watermelon and just a hint of peach and brown spice notes. These same characters are echoed on the palate, which enjoys a refreshing touch of pink grapefruit, enhancing the lingering finish. Good acidity is a hallmark of good, dry rosé, and this one proves no exception. These grapes—Sangiovese, Zinfandel and Syrah--are organically grown (certified) in Mendocino and Amador (Sierra Foothills) counties. Bursting with flavor, this refreshing wine is a terrific value. Foods: Cajun-deep-fried turkey; smoked turkey (both light and dark meat); roast turkey with raisin bread stuffing; Grilled or roasted Cornish game hen; roast chicken; rolled boneless breast of turkey stuffed with sausage bread stuffing; barbecued turkey with a not-too-hot tomato-based barbecue sauce; Other foods: sopressata from E. 48th St. Market in Dunwoody or the house-made finochiona from Pine Street Market in Avondale Estates. Thai dishes, such as chicken or pork with massaman curry. National Distributing $13.00 2008 King Estate Pinot Gris Oregon Acrobat Review Date - 11/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: For many holiday meals, starting with a crisp white wine that can segue to the main event leads one to Pinot Gris. The same grape as Pinot Grigio when labeled Pinot Gris tends to produce a wine that is rounder, richer and crisper than most Pinot Grigio, following more of an Alsace model than an Italian one. In Oregon, all wine produced in that state and made from this grape must be labeled Pinot Gris, no matter its style. This example is one fantastic value, as it yields a medium-bodied wine that offers a lovely medium pale gold-straw color. The aromas entice with loads of fresh pear, crisp apple (Fuji/Gala), Asian pear-apple, and citrus characters. On the palate, good acidity balances against residual sugar to produce a crisp, mouthwatering experience, as the fruit characters introduced in the aromas continue in the mouth. Altogether a delicious experience, with modest claims on the wallet. Delectable. Serve moderately chilled, about 50-55ºF/10-13ºC in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Crab cakes; smoked trout salad; grilled shrimp; seafood-stuffed ravioli with citrus butter; seafood terrine; parchment envelopes filled with cooked scallops or mild fish; rolled breast of turkey with apple stuffing (no sage); roast bacon-wrapped breast of turkey with Cajun seasoning (mild); smoked breast of turkey; roast turkey with pear chutney. National Distributing Co. $13.00 2007 Standing Stone Vineyards Vidal Finger Lakes Dry Review Date - 11/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Vidal is a hybrid grape of Ugni Blanc (a/k/a Trebbiano, a V. vinifera) and Rayon d’Or (Seibel 4986), itself a hybrid. Vidal doesn’t get much respect from the wine geeks among us, to whom I respond, “Oh well, more for me!” The Seibel grapes, which are all numbered, are the work of Frenchman Albert Seibel (d. 1936). While the grapes have not found favor in France, they have done well in cold climates, such as Canada and the Eastern U.S, where Vidal is made in a range of styles from dry to sweet (including ice wine). This example shows a lovely pale straw color, and aromas that suggest a range of tropical fruit characters, including grapefruit and star fruit (carambola). These characters inform the palate as well, concluding in a long, crisp finish. Good acidity keeps the wine on an even keel with the fruit. Medium-bodied with lovely complexity, some minerality, and an appealing fruit profile, the wine is a terrific value for serving a large gathering. Another advantage: Moderate alcohol, about 11%. Serve moderately chilled, about 50-55ºF/10-13ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: seafood-based appetizers, such as tiny crab cakes, crab quiche, seafood sausages with beurre blanc, seafood terrines or mousses; scallops; goat cheese (singularly yummy); composed salads with white meats or seafood; roasted white meat turkey with apple/celery stuffing (no sage or dried herbs); Croque Monsieur made with smoked turkey; turkey croquets. Sommelier Direct $13.00 Bennett Family The Big Red Monster Review Date - 10/1/2009 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Substantial alcohol doesn’t get in the way of its balance, so this big, full-bodied red wine with a deep ruby red color brings forth aromas of plums and spice. Composed 50/50 of Syrah and Petit Sirah, this big but balanced red wine provides the palate with supple tannins, generous dark fruits—lots of blackberry, loganberry and black currant—with some coffee and cocoa notes. Mouthwatering, with good acidity and a fine, long, clean finish. Important: decant and serve cool. This big wine will stay in the fight for several days after being opened; just be sure to stash it in the fridge. Might cellar well for a couple of years, but mark when you bought it as it’s nonvintage. Really delicious, and a terrific value. Foods: Coarse-textured terrines (rather than smoother pâtés); pasta with meat sauces (duck and mushrooms for instance); pork loin brushed with dark fruit glaze; picadillo; meat pies, Asian beef dishes (Korean beef; Vietnamese “shaking” beef); meat casseroles and stews; well seasoned legume dishes; blue cheeses (creamy rather than sharp); dark chocolate (about 60% cacao). General Wholesale $12.00 2007 Chapoutier Banyuls Terra Vinya Review Date - 10/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: The region is located in the Roussillon, which used to be part of Catalonia. Municipal buildings still fly the Catalan flag, but, differently from Spanish Catalonia, most people no longer speak Catalan. Most consumers think of Ports as a red wine finish to a fine meal. But although there are some whites from Banyuls, most are made chiefly from Grenache noir and also are fortified, in this case with pure alcohol. Banyuls is a delicious and less costly alternative to Port, and offers somewhat less alcohol (16% for this one). Banyuls also may be used as an aperitif. This example, tasted at Paces 88, the new restaurant at the St. Regis, is a classic of the genre, produced from vines that are 50-70 years old. Full-bodied and aromatic, the wine shows a beautiful deep, dark garnet color. Pleasing aromas of dark dried fruits with Grenache’s peppery character showing proudly. On the palate, dried dark fruits and high-cacao chocolate lead the flavor parade. The delicious sweetness is satisfying without being cloying. These wines, like Ports, may age beautifully if well cellared. You’ll also find it by the glass at Bacchanalia. Serve cool, about 65ºF/17ºC. Foods: As an aperitif with foie gras and liver mousse. As dessert with blue cheeses; fruit cake; dried fruits, high-cacao dark chocolate, toasted nuts. Empire Distributors $27.00 2007 Carpineto Dogajolo Toscano I.G.T. Review Date - 10/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Tuscany’s icon red wine grape, Sangiovese (80%), blends with Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) to craft this modestly priced “Super Tuscan” style red wine. The grapes (which in some years may include other varieties besides these two) are vinified separately in small barrels and bottle in the spring after harvest. Alcohol is 13%. Medium-bodied, with an intense ruby red color, the wine exhibits aromas of rich dark fruits with spice. On the palate, easy tannins frame deep dark fruit flavors with spice and hints of vanilla from oak. As the wine unfolds, it develops further complexity and depth in the glass. Consider decanting for 10-20 minutes before serving. Winery suggest short-term cellaring only, and if older, serve slightly warmer than recommended above. I would still keep it quite cool. Foods: Dishes with rusticity, lots of garlic, plenty of seasoning: pasta with garlic, smoked mozzarella and a creamy sauce; ricotta-stuffed pastas in tomato sauce; grilled sausages; sausage with peppers and onions; beef or lamb steak; chicken cacciatore (hunter style with mushrooms, tomato and red wine); flavorful aged cheeses. General Wholesale $14.00 2008 Gaia Nókios Red Wine Nemea Review Date - 10/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Leon Karatsalos and Yiannis Paraskevopoulos (Ph.D.) founded the estate in 1994 especially to focus on the native Greek varieties for making wine. Both are classically trained in oenology. Grape type: Agiorgitiko. Fresh red fruit aromas emerge from this wine, which shows a lovely, intense dark red color. On the palate, soft tannins envelope red fruit flavors, which leave the palate with a bit of black pepper on the back. No oak, so what you see is what you get. Foods: Robustly flavored dishes: peppercorn-crusted creamy liver mousse; meat-filled grape leaves; black olives; pasta with well-seasoned meat sauces; braised meats or legumes in tomato sauce; grilled well-seasoned sausage; moussaka; lamb; duck; game; feta cheese in herbs and olive oil (very good) United Distributors $14.00 Mt Jagged Sparkling Red Southern Fleurieu Review Date - 10/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Sparkling red wines have so many uses and can be surprising in their food affinities. I remember a sparkling Merlot once from Australia that was beautiful with oysters Rockefeller. I sure wouldn’t have expected that. This one, with its opaque purple red color, expresses aromas full of space, sweet dark fruits and the scent of chocolate. But that sweet impression gives way to a dry red wine that offers intriguing, lingering, complex dark fruit flavors—plum, some dried fruit—that are more savory than sweet. Grape types: mostly Merlot, some Cabernet Sauvigon and Shiraz. The Southern Fleuriu is just south of McLaren Vale. Potential cellaring 5 years or more. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC. Foods: Indian meat and vegetarian dishes that aren’t too hot, such as lamb rogan josh; chili; roast turkey or even Cajun deep-fried turkey; mole poblano; Asian meat dishes; dark chocolate; coffee/cocoa-crusted lamb or venison chops; roast duck with five-spice powder seasoning; braised oxtails or short ribs with some savory but not hot seasoning Bacco Fine Wine $18.00 2003 L.A. Cetto Nebbiolo Reserva Valle del Guadalupe Review Date - 10/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Nebbiolo is a grape that originated in Italy but has found other homes across the planet. One of them is in Mexico, in its share of California, where L. A. Cetto was founded by people of Italian descent almost a century ago. This full-bodied interpretation of the grape shows a medium-deep purple red color. On the nose, a lively scent of dried dark and red fruits with brown spice notes introduces a palate packed with fresh dark fruits and robust tannins This clearly New World approach to Nebbiolo is refined and balanced., its fruit fresh and forward but not overplayed. Following 12 months in French oak, the wine ages in bottle for two years. The Bridge Gourmet Mexican Restaurant offered the wine as part of its first anniversary celebration this month. Foods: Robustly seasoned dishes: creamy liver pâté; pasta with sun-dried tomatoes and olives; grilled or roasted duck or Rock Cornish hen; braised meats (short ribs; veal shank) with mashed potatoes; dishes with tomato sauce; meat-based casseroles seasoned with cumin (comino), legumes; rich, aged cheeses. Ultimate Distributors $24.00 2006 Jose Maria Da Fonseca Periquita Terra do São Review Date - 10/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Portuguese red wines range from fairly light-bodied dry reds to full-bodied dry red wines as well as sweet Porto from the Duoro in the north. The grape for this little gem is Castelão, which comes from Southern Portugal. Aromas of berries and spice greet the nose, with some suggestion of lavender or something summery and floral. On the palate, supple tannins and great fresh dark berries and hints of dried dark fruits link to form a satisfying taste experience. A superb food wine with a wide variety of foods. First-class value. Foods: creamy chicken liver pâté with black pepper; penne pasta with sun-dried tomatoes and olives; roast chicken or Cornish hen; grilled duck breast with five-spice powder; roast pork loin or tenderloin; mild sausage and peppers, Portuguese-style chorizo and linguiça (if not too hot); legume dishes with good seasoning (but not hot); meat-based casseroles; aged firm cheeses, ripe Taleggio and soft, creamy blues. National Distributing $11.00 2007 Guardiola Solage Jumilla Review Date - 10/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: In this part of Spain, lying between La Mancha (Spain’s largest wine-growing region) just southeast of Madrid and Alicante on the Mediterranean, ancient vines are head prunded (not trellised). Monastrell (a/k/a Mourvèdre) is the icon grape here, and this example blends it with Spain’s other iconic grape, Tempranillo. The two unite 50/50 in this wine. In this stony soil and dry climate, the vines produce low yields and intensely flavored grapes. In this example, a full-bodied dry red wine, we find a lovely medium cherry red color. On the nose, aromas of red fruits—cherries and currants—precede a palate of similar characters. Tannins are very silky, subtle, soft, lending a sensuous texture to the wine. Fruit dominates the clean, moderately long finish. Acidity is moderate. This is a good solo sipper, if you enjoy red wines by themselves. But works best with food: Silky liver mousse with black pepper; grilled chicken livers wrapped in bacon; roast chicken; pasta with meat sauces or sun-dried tomato and olives; well-seasoned meat pies, stews and braises (loves cumin, or comino); roasted vegetables or a root vegetable stew; well-aged cheeses and creamy blues. Quality Wine & Spirits $16.00 2007 Familia Deicas Don Pascal Tannat Reserve Juanicó Review Date - 10/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Tannat is a grape whose name references tannin. In Uruguay, Argentina’s neighbor to the east and Brazil’s to the southeast, it’s the grape of choice for producers of red wine, having been introduced by Don Pascual Harriague. Hence, the name of this range of wines. Although other red varieties also are grown, Tannat has a claim on being the nation’s icon red wine grape. While in Madiran in southwestern France, the grape produces wines of considerable, hard, drying tannins, in Uruguay, as in this example, the tannins are soft and velvety. This full-bodied wine shows a deep, intense purple red color, while the aromas deliver the suggestion of fresh ripe figs and brown spices on a background of fresh dark fruits. On the palate, bright dark cherry and dark plum flavors meld. Foods: liver pâté; grilled duck breast seasoned with five-spice powder; meatballs in tomato sauce; steak with chimichurri sauce; braised meats; casseroles and stews; root vegetable stew with pancetta; grilled ham steak, sausages or lamb steak; firm, aged cheeses; 60% cocao dark chocolate (super yum!). New World Wines $13.00 2006 Felipe Rutini Malbec Mendoza Review Date - 10/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Malbec with its roots in Bordeaux and Cahors, France, may have found its true home in Argentina, although Chile does well with it, too. There’s also 30 acres planted in Idaho and even a tad in North Georgia. Founder (1880s) Felipe Rutini was an Italian immigrant from Le Marche. This dry, full-bodied example shows a lovely vinous aroma with black fruits in the lead. Sweet black fruit—black currant and black raspberry—flesh out the palate, with good, fruit-derived tannins for structure. The sweet fruit is most delectable, and with its touch of spice, handles spice in foods very nicely. Serve this one a bit warmer than others, about 65ºF/17ºF. Foods: Creamy liver pâté; pasta with hefty garlic and other assertive flavors; meat-filled empanadas and beef-filled Jamaican meat patties with mild but definite spice; grilled sausages; braised meats with mashed potatoes or polenta; mushroom ragout; root vegetable strew with or without pancetta or country ham; Asian beef and lamb dishes; barbecue; grilled steak with chimichurri sauce; matambre (an Argentine dish of cold, braised, stuffed flank steak); rich, aged Italian cheeses (Taleggio) and aged Manchego or Parano, dark chocolate National Distributing $18.00 2006 Matchbook Tinto Rey Review Date - 10/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: “Tinto Rey,” or “Red King,” is the proprietary term chosen for this blend by J. L. Guigiere and Crew Wine Co. Grapes are Syrah (43%), Tempranillo (40%); Malbec (7%); Petit Verdot (6%) and Graciano (4%). But it’s not a “meritage,” because some of the grapes included (Syrah, Tempranillo and Graciano) aren’t Bordeaux varieties. Dunnigan Hills is located in Yolo County, Sacramento Valley. This full-bodied dry red wine spares no pains to connect with the power of the grape. Deep and concentrated, it presents aromas that dip into the caramel character provided by American oak. Thereafter dark fruits take command of the palate, but aren’t jaw-breaking. The finish shows a little heat, but cooling the wine down will take care of that. Foods: Robust foods: steak with chimichurri sauce or creamy soft blue, braised meats with potatoes and root vegetables; meat pies; stews; grilled meats (lamb; duck); game; robust cheeses; dark chocolate. Quality Wine & Spirits $18.00 2006 JC Cellars Rockpile Vineyards Syrah Review Date - 10/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Syrah pitches two fundamentally different styles, depending on the climate in which it’s grown. In a cool climate, Syrah comes up with a lot of white pepper, sometimes a bit of gamy meatiness on the aromas, and an elegant, fruit-restrained style. In warmer climates, Syrah yields bold, intense, fruit-driven wines that are often high in alcohol and quite chewy in texture. Such is the case with this example. Established in 2002, Rockpile AVA is part of Sonoma County, and is known for big Zinfandels and Syrahs. This vineyard sits at 2,000 feet 25 miles west of Geyserville, and is chiefly known for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and some Syrah. (JC Cellars is located in Oakland, CA.) The wine is big, bold and alcoholic (15.5%) but the intense dark fruit balances off any sense of heat. Aromas of rich dark chocolate and assorted black berries prepare the palate for more of the same. Rather fine tannins frame a chewy texture. If you like bold, this is it! Serve in large-bowled glasses at the higher range of serving temperature, around 65-70ºF/.15-20ºC. Well-seasoned, full-bodied foods: Rough-textured terrines, cured meats; meat pies; braised beef brisket or chuck in tomato and beef stock; barbecued chicken; grilled lamb; meat or root vegetable stews; picadillo; grilled sausages; Jamaican meat patties (but not too hot); aged cheeses, dark chocolate. Prime Wine & Spirits $33.00 Savida Sangria White Review Date - 9/1/2009 Score - 86 Tasting Note: When it comes to warm, breezy days on the patio, nothing beats sangria. Although it’s easy to make, and usually winds up tasting better than any bottled version, this brand is quite acceptable and works well either neat and chilled or on the rocks with a splash of tonic or seltzer water and a wedge of lime. Both red and white are available, and both are nice work. Savida Sangria describes itself as the first sangria in a bottle, a statement that is absolutely not accurate, but it sure is the first I would be willing to drink. Served chilled, the sweet white wine shows flavors of citrus and tropical fruits, juices of which are blended into the wine. Its base is Sauvignon Blanc (from Silverado Winery) blended with tangerine and peach. Good acidity acts as a palate cleanser, and the finish is clean and long. Foods: Chilled, neat, with curried shrimp or chicken salad; assertively flavored cheeses (Manchego, feta), paella, calamari with a spicy aïoli, cold sliced roast chicken with spicy mayonnaise. On the rocks: Marcona almonds; cheese straws or coins; green olives; cured meats; skewers of poached, chilled shellfish; seafood mousse. National Distributing $12.00 2008 Terra Antiga Vinho Verde Review Date - 9/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Light, crisp, refreshing and slightly sprizty is the nature of Vinho Verde, produced in the largest wine-growing region of Portugal just south of the Minho River, its border with Galicia in northwestern Spain. Very pale straw, a refreshing citrus-rich aroma, and moderate alcohol (11%) are the hallmarks of this example. On the palate, lemon and lime characters are positively mouth puckering. Brisk acidity keeps the palate refreshed, and invigorates the long finish. Grapes: Alvarinho and Treixadura, the classic varieties of this region’s white wines. Serve chilled, 45-50ºF/7-10ºC. Excellent value. Foods: Bacalao (salt cod) fritters (available frozen at Portuguese grocery stores, such as Sabor Portugal on Roswell Rd. in Sandy Springs), simple grilled scallops, fish (halibut), shrimp; chicken quesadilla; chicken-filled empanadas; risotto fritters; unsalted almonds; creamy, rich light cheeses (try Serra d’Estrella) Ultimate Distributors $11.00 2006 Tenuta Merlassino Gavi Review Date - 9/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Made from the Cortese grape, Gavi is one of the classic white wines of Italy, where its cultivation and vinification date to the 17th century. Although there are plantings outside of the Piedmont (Piemonte), most Cortese is grown in that part of northwestern Italy. This particular example comes from Novi Ligure, a small town just north of Genoa. Light and delicate, the wine is fermented for about 20 days at very cool temperatures and then goes directly to bottle. No oak. So the result is a fresh, crisp, dry white wine that makes a great summer sipper. This example showcases a lovely pale straw color, and with its moderate acidity and crisp citrus-kissed fruit flavors, is refreshing and uplifting on the palate. Elegance, refinement and delicacy are the watchwords. Serve about 50-55ºF/10-13ºC. Foods (do as the Genovese do): as an aperitif with light appetizers, such as seafood mousse, creamy fresh cheese blended with minced chives, raw or steamed oysters with lemon; seafood sausages with beurre blanc; onion foccacia; crisp calamari with garlic aïoli. With mains of seafood and fish, grilled scallops, shrimp or fish with classic rémoulade; vegetable tarts, poached chicken with homemade mayonnaise. Ultimate Distributors $17.00 2007 Brigaldara Valpolicella Review Date - 9/1/2009 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Valpolicella is a viticultural zone within the province of Verona, whose capital city was the site of Romeo’s wooing of Juliet. The eponymous wine gathers its fruit from Rondinella, Molinara, and Corvina Veronese. This example adds Sangiovese to the mix. The zone ranks right after Chianti in total Italian D.O.C. production. Classic Valpolicella, the wine, is light- to medium-bodied, with a bright ruby red color. This example hits that mark beautifully. Fragrant with hints of baking spices and fresh red fruits in the aromas, the wine literally sings with ripe juiciness punctuated by notes of bitter almond. Super soft tannins add silkiness to the mouthfeel. Stainless steel vinification and aging (6 months) and minimal handling preserve beautiful fruit characters. The wine gains grace at a cool temperature so be sure to serve around 60ºF/15ºC in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses (such as the Riedel Zinfandel glass). Foods: cured meats (all kinds of salumi); grilled ham or pork steak, veal chop; grilled Cornish hen or chicken (roast, too); penne pasta with sun-dried tomato and black olives (can do as a cold salad, too), grilled sausages; bean dishes (including cold legume salads); grilled pink lamb with greens; intensely flavored cheeses (eg., Cascio di Roma), medium dark chocolate. Vinifera Distributing $17.00 Mont Marcal Brut Cava Gran Sarao Review Date - 9/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: For value in sparkling wine, most refreshing this time of year, look for a Cava, the correct term to use for Spanish sparkling wine. (Not Champagne.) This example shows a bright pale yellow straw color, and displays aromas of crisp apple with citrus notes, which carry through on the palate. Very tiny persistent bead (smaller than on most Cava) and a good mousse shape the experience, which is clean and refreshing, thanks to good acidity. Aged on the yeast Moderate alcohol: 11.5%. Grape types: Xarel.lo (40%); Macabeo (30%); Parellada (20%), Chardonnay (10%), which was approved for the D.O. in 1986. Vines average 30 years. Serve chilled, about 45ºF/7-8ºC in flutes. Excellent value. Foods: Chilled poached shellfish (especially scallops); cold, creamy soups; croquetas; creamy chicken liver mousse; watermelon salad; sliced, crispy pork belly; ceviche; medium-rare roast pork tenderloin; sashimi and sushi. Hemispheres $14.00 Burmester Vintage Port White Review Date - 9/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: White Port? Who ever heard of white Port? I’m still getting that question, but I’m also beginning to find it on shelves and in restaurants. Carpe Diem in Decatur pours one, for example. This one exhibits a deep golden color, and exudes exotic dried yellow fruit aromas. Its silky texture encases the palate in sensuousness, while the good acidity cleanses it. Dried yellow fruits jam the palate, and a pleasant warmth spreads after the last sip. Well balanced and luscious, it’s a great aperitif or final touch. Grape types: Malvasia; Codega; Donzelinho; Esgana Cão. High alcohol, about 20%, so pours should be small (about 2 ounces). As an aperitif, do as in Portugal: pour 2 ounces or so on the rocks, splash with tonic water or club soda, and squeeze a slice of lime or lemon. With this serve roasted almonds; assorted olives, cheese straws or coins, grilled shrimp, thinly sliced Serrano ham or prosciutto, unsalted or lightly salted potato chips, hummus and pita points. As a chilled (60ºF/15ºF in small tulip-shaped glasses) neat drink, serve with foie gras or liver mousse. As an after dinner, serve chilled with pound cake, blonde fruit cake, nuts and cheeses, New York-style cheesecake. Ultimate Distributors $19.00 2008 Persimmon Creek Seyval Blanc Georgia Review Date - 9/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Seyval is a grape produced in the 19th century, a hybrid. It is planted from Québec all the way south to North Georgia, and can produce light- to medium-bodied white wines that do best (in my view) in stainless steel, although Wagner in the Finger Lakes, NY, ferments it in barrel to interesting effect. Kept in stainless, the wine retains crispness and bright fruit. This off-dry example shows a lovely pale straw color, and captures clean, fresh citrus-kissed white fruit characters. Moderate alcohol, 11%. I like this edition so much better than 2007, which did get some oak while this one was vinified in stainless steel. Good acidity and low ph balance the residual sugar. Serve moderately chilled, about 50-55ºF/10-13ºC. Foods: Simple grilled fish, seafood, especially scallops and shrimp either grilled or poached or cooked in parchment paper—skip sauces; oysters; poached chicken with curry-accented (light!) homemade mayonnaise; goat cheese. Persimmon Creek Winery $23.00 2008 Amador Foothill Winery Rosato di Sangiovese Amador County Review Date - 9/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: The gorgeous deep, bright reddish pink color of this dry rosé, made entirely of Sangiovese, almost marks it as a light red. Planted on a Tuscan rootstock designed to control vigor, these vines produce grapes with intense red fruit aromas and flavors. The wine was vinified entirely in stainless steel, with 10% of the juice saignée (bled) off the fruit. The rest saw some skin contact. Only a touch of residual sugar (.32) graces this beautiful wine, but that smidgen lets it pair with some interesting foods. The fruits flavors it expresses embrace a wide range, from pink grapefruit to watermelon to strawberry. And was that a touch of rhubarb that seemed to emerge from time to time? Could be, for this is a complex and lively wine. Please do not overchill, keeping its serving temperature at cellar cool: 55ºF/13ºC. Foods: Cajun and Creole fare, such as étouffé, jambalaya, red beans and rice, shrimp sautéed with tasso ham. Also paella, red snapper with peppers and onions; grilled ham steak; barbecue; grilled wild-caught salmon (such as Copper River); Asian fare with lots of garlic and ginger, Korean or Chinese barbecue. Sommelier Direct $13.00 2008 Attems Pinot Grigio Collio Review Date - 9/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Pinot Grigio is rapidly becoming an American favorite—almost a Chardonnay replacement. Much of what we see here comes from the Veneto, but I find many of them flabby, uncommonly dull and lacking character. Not so those from northern Italy, such as from this example. Aromas and flavors of pears and Asian pear apples with a characteristic almond note in both the aromas and the finish define this wine. The luscious texture—the result of very brief oak exposure--and good acidity make this not only a great solo sipper but also a fine food companion. Minimal handling pays off in the preservation of exquisite fruit. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC. Foods: fried calamari with lemon aïoli; mussels or clams steamed in wine, garlic and cream; pasta with creamy sauces (such as cream, peas and ham); creamy pasta salads with garlic and smoked mozzarella; wood-roasted whole fish (not oily); creamy, mild cheeses United Distributors $20.00 2006 Bodegas del Rosario Las Reñas Rosado Bullas Review Date - 9/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Part of Murcia, Bullas is a D.O. in eastern central Spain with high altitudes and Mediterranean climate and exposure. Although this is a 2006 rosado, it’s still showing lovely, lively fruit and a fine reddish pink color. This dry, medium-bodied rosé wine shows plenty of evolved red fruit and brown baking spices, with a broad and deep mid palate and clean finish. Intense red fruit characters, including cranberry and raspberry, shape the flavor profile from start to finish. Grape type: Monastrell, a/k/a Mourvèdre/also a/k/a Mataro. Serve moderately chilled, around 55ºF/13ºC. Foods: smoked wings; barbecue; barbecued chicken; grilled shrimp; grilled veggies with red peppers; cured meats; grilled chicken with red pepper pesto; escalivada (a dish of eggplant, tomatoes, garlic, peppers, served at room temperature); grilled ham steak; grilled shrimp. Liquid Brands $11.00 Habersham Vineyards Signet Review Date - 9/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Look around our own state for wines that make good patio sipping: A blend of Seyval (a French-American hybrid grown from Canada to North Georgia) and Chardonnay, this non-vintage, slightly off-dry (just .6 residual sugar) wine shows a bright, very pale straw color. Crisp, with clean, white fruit character, light on the palate, the wine shows the classic Seyval citrus mineral characters and a respectable finish. Illegal in the E.U. (except for England), Seyval can make anything from still to sparkling and from dry to sweet. The label sports a trout on the label, as if suggesting that as a pairing. Serve it moderately chilled, about 45-50ºF/8-10ºC. Good as a solo sipper, Signet does nicely with light foods: hummus with pita points; chilled poached shellfish with lemon vinaigrette; grilled trout stuffed with fresh herbs; fried catfish; pasta and potato salads; goat cheese; stuffed cocktail potatoes with sour cream and chives; unsalted potato chips with French onion dip. Prestige Wine Wholesale $12.00 2008 J Lohr Winery Valdiguie Monterey Wildflower Review Date - 9/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Known as Gros Auxxerois in the Languedoc-Roussillon, France, the grape we now call Valdiguié used to be known as Napa Gamay. But since 1999, that term has been banned from U.S. labels as DNA typing determined it was not Gamay, the grape of Beaujolais. Valdiguié is the last name of three men associated historically with its propagation, thus giving Americans another difficult-to-pronounce wine term (val-dee-ghee-ai). The grape produces light- to medium-bodied wines that, as in Beaujolais, are often produced using whole berry fermentation (also known as carbonic maceration), which enhances fruit characters. The lovely purple red color and forward dark and red berry aromas lead to flavors of sweet juicy dark fruits with a touch of blueberry and raspberry in the mix. Super soft tannins frame the fruit. Carbonic maceration is obvious in the ample fruitiness. Juicy and uncomplicated, it shares billing with Petit Verdot and White Riesling, which take up about 10% of the whole. Serve chilled (about 55ºF/13ºC), as Muss & Turner in Atlanta insists on doing correctly. Makes a fine aperitif: grilled chicken livers on a rosemary sprig; Chinese or Korean barbecue; rough-textured terrines; cured meats. With dinner: meatloaf; grilled, fried or roast chicken; roast duck; pork loin; barbecue. Empire Distributing (Atlanta); National Distributing (Savannah) $10.00 2007 Aveleda Douro Charamba Review Date - 8/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Back in the mid-1980s, the wine producers of the Douro, where Porto is made, began to have the right to make table wine from the same varieties, namely Tinta Roriz (a/k/a Tempranillo); Touiriga nacional; Tinta Cão, Touriga francesa as the principal varieties. That’s what you have in this medium-bodied dry red wine with a dark ruby red color. Aromas and flavors focus on sweet dark fruits, with black cherries and black berries leading the pack. Supple tannins enfold the fruit, yielding a wine that demands a cool serving temperature. This is an excellent value, sold in some stores as low as $8. You will keep quite a crowd happy for very little money at your next barbecue. Foods: Cured meats; grilled ham steak; lamb; pork country-style ribs rubbed with dry seasoning; barbecued chicken; tomato-baked meatloaf; grilled eggplant, peppers and zucchini; ground lamb casserole under a layer of mashed potatoes; cold roast beef or cold, sliced grilled steak; legume dishes with or without meat; well-seasoned red beans and rice with andouille (or without); classic Southern barbecue; Brunswick stew; chili, mild cheeses, dark chocolate. Quality Wine & Spirits $10.00 2006 Amador Foothill Winery Katie’s Cote 2006 Review Date - 8/1/2009 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Winemaker Katie Quinn is delighted that her winemaker spouse, Ben Zeitman, named this delightful wine for her. It’s a terrific barbecue wine, medium- to full-bodied, and showing a deep dark cherry-red color. From start to finish, the generous fruit, focused on black plums, black raspberries and spice in both aromas and flavors, with a tiny hint of licorice, brings to bear all that’s needed for pairing with barbecue. The minute I tasted it with the team at the winery, I knew this would work, and tasting it with Rolling Bones barbecue shows that it does (more below). Soft but persistent tannins wrap the mouth with a gentle silkiness and lend structure. This is a potential near-term keeper if well cellared. Foods: Cured meats; grilled red meats, Southern barbecue (richly smoked with medium-bodied tomato-based cumin-accented sauce); game; barbecued chicken; legume-based dishes; aged cheeses; dark chocolate Sommelier Direct $18.00 Segura Viudas Aria Sparkling Pinot Noir Review Date - 8/1/2009 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Why not start with a sparkling red? If the notion surprises you, or if you think only the Aussies do this sort of thing, you’re in for a delightful surprise. This fruit-focused, berry-rich dry sparkler shows a lovely deep rosé (or light red) color. Aromas entice with fine dark and red fruit characters, including a hint of strawberry, and complex dark/red fruit flavors follow with hints of spice leading to a fine palate-cleansing finish. Based entirely on Pinot Noir, this full-bodied sparkling wine barely makes brut at 14 grams/liter residual sugar under the limitation for brut (which is 15 g/l), but the extremely low ph (3.01) and moderate acidity (.37) aid the sensation of dryness on the palate. Alcohol also is a low 11%, another advantage for summer quaffing. Fermented in stainless steel, the wine was aged on the yeast for a year for additional complexity and to enhance the mousse. Chill as you would any sparkling wine, to 45-50ºF/7-10ºC, and serve in tulip-shaped flutes. Taste by the glass (make it tulip-shaped) at the Shed at Glenwood. Fantastic value. Foods: popcorn (no joke); barbecue ribs (delightful); mole poblano; grilled bacon-wrapped chicken livers (do them on rosemary skewers); roast duck, Cornish game hen or roast pork tenderloin with blueberry fruit; even tomato with balsamic dressing; chocolate-covered peanuts. National Distributing $12.00 2007 La Planeta Sicilia La Segreta Rosso Review Date - 8/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: A lively blend of local (Nero d’Avola) and “international” (Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc) grapes, this medium- full-bodied dry red wine exhibits a lovely purple-red color. It shows a delicious dark fruit profile in the aromas with red fruit accents, while the flavors focus on dark fruits punctuated by some spice and dried fruit characters. Supple tannins well integrated with the fruit make this an all-around crowd pleaser. The 2008 vintage is in release, but 2007 is what’s in this market. Cellar for no more than a year or two more. Great value. Very food friendly. Foods: Smoked meats, smoked duck with figs, smoked chicken, ribs—all with a cumin-accented tomato-based sauce; wood-roasted chicken or rabbit; chicken cacciatore; muffaletta, assorted panini; grilled red meats (lamb especially); legume-based dishes; dark chocolate. National Distributing $13.00 2007 Chapoutier Cotes du Rhone Belleruche Rouge Review Date - 8/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: There’s a reason why Rhône-style wines and their grape types are coming on so strong: They please the palate and work with food—a double whammy. This well-structured, great value wine, made from Syrah and Grenache, is medium-bodied, and shows a medium cherry red color. In the aromas, a hint of iodine adds a grace note to the dark fruit characters. Sweet tannins, supple and fruit-derived, encase the delectable black fruits, which are considerably enhanced by cooler temperatures. Tasty, long-finished and juicy. Foods: chicken livers with bacon; terrines, Vidalia onion tarte, perhaps with chorizo; Memphis-style rubbed chicken, smoked; smoked duck; muffaletta; assorted panini; grilled sausages; smoked duck with figs (Rolling Bones); smoked sausage; smoked or wood-roasted chicken; pulled pork; pork butt slow-cooked; mild tomato-based barbecue sauce; legume-based sausage-seasoned dishes; cured meats (especially saucisson sec), aged cheeses. Atlanta Wholesale Wines/National Distributing $13.00 2007 Persimmon Creek Cabernet Franc Georgia Review Date - 8/1/2009 Score - 87 Tasting Note: I have long advocated for Cabernet Franc as likely is the best vinifera red for the East coast, especially cool climate areas. It does well in a wide variety of terroirs, among them North Georgia. At Persimmon Creek, which sits at a little more than 2000 feet above sea level, the Cabernet Franc vines were planted in 2000, so they are still quite young, but with each vintage their fruit characters become deeper and more rewarding. The 2007 edition shows a medium-deep garnet red color and highlights the black tea character one finds in the aromas of this grape type. Flavors pick up dark fruits, but a slight bitter note in the finish seems to vanish as the wine opens. The style is very much like Cabernet Franc found in the Loire Valley, France, specifically Chinon. Lighter than many versions, this wine has myriad food-companion options: Smoked country-style pork ribs rubbed with Hans Rueffert’s “Honey Buzz” or other dry rub seasoning mix; creamy chicken liver mousse on toast; garlicky pasta dishes with cream (Whole Foods’ smoked mozzarella pasta is awesome with this, and the creaminess dims that bitter note); pasta with sun-dried tomato; meat balls in a light tomato sauce; smoked meats; fried chicken. Persimmon Creek Winery (self-distributor) $23.00 2007 Skouras St. George Agiorghitiko Nemea Review Date - 8/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: This ancient grape goes back some 3000 years, and may be an ancestor of Sangiovese. Its fruit profile focuses on dark cherry and plum, amply represented in both the aromas and flavors. Velvety tannins enrobe the flavors, and a year spent in one-year-old French oak (Burgundian) softens tannins and helps integrate them into the fruit without leaving a strong perception of oak. These 25-year-old vines are planted at 2100-2500 feet above sea level in volcanic red rock soil. They are dry farmed in a sustainable and organic viticultural program. Taste by the glass at Kyma, and hats off to that restaurant and to Buckhead Life Restaurant Group for establishing Greek wines in this market. Foods: barbecue ribs; roast chicken; legume-based dishes; meat-filled pies; pasta with light meat sauces and tomato; pork tenderloin; lamb lollipops; even mild white fish dusted with seasoned flour and sautéed. United Distributors $14.00 2007 Fairview Pinotage Coastal Region Review Date - 8/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: From a winery established in 1693 comes this delicious Pinotage. Lacking all evidence of the unpleasant medicinal character often associated with the grape, which is a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, this Pinotage shows a deep dark purple color. Aromas and flavors focus on black fruits, especially blackberries and plums, with notes of spice and vanilla. Ten months in used French and American oak softened the tannins, which now are well integrated with the fruit, which, in turn, leads the flavor parade. A bit of residual sugar (3 g/l) balances well against the total acidity and moderate ph. Perfect pitch. Some of these bush vines are more than 25 years old. Foods: Classic South African dishes, including meat or vegetable curries; braai (barbecue); and bobootie (ground meats with cinnamon and spices under a baked custard layer); and roti; also Southern barbecue (Memphis-style and lamb barbecue especially); chicken baked under a barbecue sauce that’s got some spice-heat; cabrito; legume dishes; dark chocolate. Empire Distributors $16.00 2007 La Monica Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Review Date - 8/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Montepulciano is a grape type that until recent years used to produce pretty dull wines in Abruzzo, which lies in eastern Italy on the Adriatic Sea. Typical of the type, this medium-bodied fruity dry red wine shows a deep purple red color. Dark fruits—from plums to dark cherries—inform the aromas and flavors, and the tannins are soft and supple. Designed to be enjoyed young, most Montepulciano-based wines represent extremely good values, and this one is no exception. (Note: Do not confuse with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which is from Tuscany, is largely made from Sangiovese, and is more expensive.) Excellent value. Being Italian, the wine is a great food companion: cured and dried meats, especially saucisson sec, sorpressata, coppo and the like; muffaletta and panini; smoked chicken and other smoked meats; grilled ham; salads made from cannelini beans and other legumes; pasta dishes (including salads) with salami, peppers, sun-dried tomatoes and black olives; barecued chicken. Ultimate Distributors $9.00 2007 Jean-Francois Merieau Le Bois Jacou Review Date - 8/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Here is one of the ideal wines for summer sipping: Made entirely from the Gamay grape form 40-60-year-old vines in a single vineyard named “Le Bois Jacou,” the wine is medium-bodied with a translucent cherry red color. The wine’s aromas and initial flavors suggest subtle wild strawberry. Fermented and aged for eight months in tank, the grapes are hand harvested. Beautifully balanced and ideally weighted for serving slightly chilled, the wine presents soft tannins, delicious well-evolved fruit, and moderate acidity. Don’t worry about alcohol either. Like Alsace, Tour allows the indication of the grape variety on the front label. Excellent value. Foods: grilled chicken livers wrapped in bacon; rilletes (potted cooked meat); wood-roasted duck, chicken, grilled sausages; wood-roasted chicken; Memphis dry rub on chicken or Cornish game hen, then wood smoked; wings; baby back ribs with a mild tomato-based sauce; wood-roasted pork loin; lamb lollipops. Quality Wine & Spirits $14.00 2007 Villa di Azzano Villa di Azzano Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso D.O.C. Review Date - 8/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Likely an indigenous Italian grape, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso is an ancient subvariety of Refosco. It gets the latter part of its name from its characteristic red stems (Peduncolo Rosso). Slightly translucent purple red in color, this full-bodied dry red wine shows aromas and flavors of fresh black fruits with a subtle almond note that adds interest and complexity. The enduring flavors, good acid backbone, and supple tannins make for a delicious, fruit-intense wine that comes alive when served cool. Just a pleasure. Foods: cured meats; dry-rubbed slow-smoked pork ribs; chicken in pipián (mild); pasta with sun-dried tomatoes and black olives (either cold as a salad or warm); fried chicken (add a bit of spice in the flour); legume dishes (really good with ole Boston baked beans) and legume salads; eggplant Parmesan; meatballs in light tomato sauce; duck with figs Bacco Fine Wine $17.00 Ariola Lambrusco Grand Cru I.G.T. Review Date - 8/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Have you scorned ever drinking a Lambrusco? Thought it simple quaff for old ladies at bridge? Lambrusco like this you may never have savored. If you’re thinking “wine cooler,” flip a switch. Throughout the 1970s and ‘80s, Lambrusco was the largest selling imported wine in the U.S., but those slightly spritzy wines belie their potential. This is a deep, dark ruby red dry wine that froths quickly then settles down in the tulip to a rim of tiny bubbles at the outer edge of the glass. Rich fresh dark fruit aromas lead to rich fruit flavors focused on black currant and blackberry. Delicious, and just 10.5% alcohol. Grape types: Lambrusco maestri (90%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). Lambrusco maestri is one of some 60 clones of Lambrusco planted around Italy. The wine is made in the Charmat (tank) method. Foods: cured meats (amazing), such as saucisson sec, chorizo, assorted salumi, ham, coppo, country-style ribs rubbed with a Memphis-style dry rub; Gorgonzola dolce, and by extension, steak with Gorgonzola cream sauce; smoked or roast duck with figs; roast Cornish hen brushed with melted black currant jam; dark chocolate with a peanut layer. Ultimate Distributors $18.00 2006 Daniel Reverdy Sancerre Rosé Review Date - 7/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Rare it is to find a rosé from Sancerre, whose reds are based on Pinot Noir. Known chiefly for whites crafted from Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre has more to offer, and rosé is one of its gems. Even though it’s almost three harvests away from vintage, the wine shows beautiful ripe red fruits, starting with a strong aroma of intense wild strawberries. Red raspberries add a note to the palate, which is crisp and clean, not sweet. Mid palate shows a nice deep red fruit character, and the long finish continues to convey red fruit notes. Deeply delicious. This keeps quite well in the fridge once it’s opened. Grape type: Pinot Noir. Foods: wings; buffalo shrimp; salmon salad; grilled salmon; smoked or roast chicken; paella; grilled sausages; barbecue; barbecued shrimp; Peach State $20.00 2007 Milbrandt Vineyards Riesling Columbia Valley Traditions Review Date - 7/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Brothers Butch and Jerry Milbrandt farm about 1600 acres of vines in eastern Washington. Evergreen, Pheasant and Wahluke Slope contribute to this luscious Riesling, all lying within the Columbia Valley. Eastern Washington is nearly a desert, with five inches of annual precipitation or less. Its cool climate lends itself ideally to Riesling. Some grapes for the famous Chateau Ste. Michelle “Eroica” Riesling come from what these two siblings produce. Newly arrived in the Atlanta market, the wine shows a lovely yellow gold color, and presents luscious classical yellow stone fruit characters, peach and apricot. A tiny bit of Muscat Canelli lifts the aromas. Well balanced (1.5% residual sugar); .77 total acidity; and way low 3.05 ph), the wine offers an off-dry lusciousness that is, like the aromas, focused on yellow stone fruits. Good acidity makes it absolutely mouthwatering. Foods: All sorts of Asian fare, from spicy seafood, fish and chicken dishes to vegetarian fare; Chinese spicy pork (but not wicked hot) and vegetarian fare; Thai lemongrass seafood and chicken; Korean crab pancakes and steamed dumplings with Ponzu dipping sauce; shumai; chicken apple sausages; chicken breasts baked atop thinly sliced onions and minced garlic; dishes with mustard and chicken or pork cutlets Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $18.00 Wegeler Riesling Review Date - 7/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Traditional methods of making sparkling wine are applied to the Riesling grape produced in three different regions of Germany: The Pfalz, the Mosel and the Rheingau. Residual sugar is .5%, well below the threshold for brut (.15). A lovely gold color appeals to the eye, while the aromas reveal a little of the diesel character often associated with Riesling, followed by rich fruit suggesting pineapple, pear and yellow stone fruits. A fine mousse and refined yeastiness enhance the experience. On the palate, the expressive rich fruit is well evolved, and the excellent acidity cuts through, making this a great companion for rich and creamy foods. The Wegeler estate dates to the early 20th century, and owns large holdings in all three growing regions, including acreage in the famous Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard. Foods: mousse of duck or goose liver; foie gras; grilled chicken livers on rosemary skewers; chilled ginger/carrot soup; dim sum, creamy baked oysters, smoked salmon/cream cheese/minced scallion lavosh roll-ups; lemongrass Thai shrimp salad; mild triple cream cheeses (e.g., Brillat-Savarin). Ultimate Distributors $23.00 2007 Ad Hoc Wallflower Riesling Frankland River Western Australia Review Date - 7/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Down Under does some excellent Riesling, from Tasmania to Clare and Eden valleys north of Adelaide, Australia, Western Australia, and New Zealand. South Africa turns in a few good examples, too, and Chile is beginning to pay attention to the variety. But Australia is the champion, with some 10,000 acres planted to the variety. From Western Australia, Frankland River, to be exact, comes this lovely example, its aromas just slightly caressed with Riesling’s classic diesel-like scent. Very pale straw in color, this full-bodied dry Riesling presents a fleshy palate of ripe fruit—some apple; some white stone fruits—with gorgeous juiciness and citrus accents on aromas and flavors. Stony minerality adds interest and complexity. A clean, crisp, dry finish wraps the package. Truly a superb example of the type, it is versatile with food: Baked salmon; pork roast if seasoned; chicken; veal; pork cutlets in mustard cream sauce; fish baked in beer and served with a mustard cream sauce; crab-stuffed flounder; pork with ginger; Chinese fare; large-pearl barley with peas, vegetables and curry, cornmeal-crusted catfish with tartar sauce; Thai coconut chicken; creamy mild triple cream cheeses (e.g., Brillat-Savarin) Ultimate Distributors $17.00 2008 Domados Wines Rosillo Rosé de Malbec Mendoza Review Date - 7/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Owner Fernando Spigatin says that to make a good wine is like breaking in (domar in Spanish) a good horse, thus the name of the winery. The Malbec grape lends itself beautifully to the making of full-bodied rosés, such as this one. The color is a deep dark red/pink. The aromas and palate revel in red fruits, from wild strawberry, which explodes in mid –palate, to the clean, fruit-filled finish Subtle rather than robust spice notes complement the red fruit mid palate that develops fresh red cherry notes. Foods: spicy shrimp/crab dip, salsa romesco with grilled chicken or pork tenderloin; pulled pork with Johnny’s Pride (perhaps the best we tasted with this wine) or other tomato-based barbecue sauce; empanadas filled with beef, chicken or pork; picadillo; grilled ham steak, sausages, chicken, pork tenderloin; pork belly braised in sorghum syrup and apple juice with Vidalia onions stuffed with sweet potato; fried chicken; fried cornmeal-crusted catfish with Cajun-style Rémoulade sauce, blackened dishes from the Cajun culinary tradition, especially Cajun-style deep-fried turkey Ultimate Distributors $15.00 2008 Carol Shelton Rendezvous Rosé “Cox Vineyard” Mendocino County Review Date - 7/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Carol Shelton is well known for her work with Zinfandel, for which she has garnered many awards. In 2000 she launched her own brand, also focused on Zinfandel. But a few non-Zin varieties enter the mix. Showing a gorgeous rose-reddish pink, this dry rosé is made from certified organically grown Carignane. Srawberry-rich in both aromas and flavors, the wine is produced by the saignée method for which juice is bled off the Carignane grapes soon after they’re crushed. With good minerality, a silky texture, an appealing juiciness, the wine shows evolving red fruit flavors that, as the wine opens, presents hints of other red fruits. Very low residual sugar (.3), the wine will taste dry to most palates. A balance of fruit and moderate acidity makes a good food wine: spicy shrimp/lobster dip; not-too-hot chorizo; turkey burgers; pork barbecue with mildly spicy tomato-based barbecue sauce; chicken or rabbit cacciatoria; wings; mildly seasoned legume-based Persian dishes; buffalo shrimp (but not wicked hot); Asian fare with beef or pork. The winery suggests salmon, but I found the fruit flavors very counter-indicated for oily salmon. On the web site is a recipe for a salad with fruits (including strawberries) and raspberry vinegar, and that pairing makes a great deal of sense to me. Can’t wait to try it! Prime Wine & Spirits $16.00 Lucien Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace Review Date - 7/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: French sparkling wines from areas outside of Champagne now may be designated “crémant,” including those from Burgundy, Bordeaux and Alsace. This example from Alsace is made entirely of Pinot Noir (yes, it’s grown in Alsace) and presents a delicate pink that in certain lights fades to reddish pale gold. A delicate scent of red fruits introduces a palate that is light, crisp and refreshing. Fresh and clean from start to finish, this is an excellent value. Lucien Albrecht also does a sparkling Riesling and a Chardonnay. Foods: Asian dumplings with soy-based dipping sauce; Szechwan eggplant; artichoke, tomato and black olive salad; dim sum; Chinese fish with black bean sauce; shrimp and crab dip; crab cakes; grilled chicken skewers; savory cocktail pies; shrimp skewers; scallops wrapped in coppa and grilled; parchment-cooked seafood with mild seasonings Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC 2007 Mönchhof Riesling Spätlese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Erdener Treppchen Prädikatswein Review Date - 7/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Dating to the 12th century Mönchhof Estate presents a wide range of Riesling types, making Mönchhof a good brand to use to explore Riesling’s expressiveness and food companionability. This one, a spätlese (pronounced schpAYT-lay-zeh), meaning “late picked,” is a moderately sweet (62 g/l residual sugar) full-bodied white wine with a lovely pale straw color. Soft acidity keeps the sweetness from seeming cloying, and promotes the long, fruit-filled finish. Fruit sweetness dominates, while flavors of pear, apple and Asian pear/apple, citrus notes, pineapple—a veritable fruit basket. Luscious, deep and lingering. Don’t fear a sweet Riesling, if the acidity and complexity support the wine, as is the case in this instance. The soils of these vineyards are famous for their blue slate, to which the lovely natural acidity is attributed. Very low alcohol: 8%. Foods: mousse of goose or duck liver; white asparagus with homemade mayonnaise; grilled veal chop; dishes with mild curry (especially chicken, tofu or seafood); Thai chicken coconut curry (Whole Foods—really good); mild triple cream cheeses (Brillat-Savarin); creamy blue cheeses (Cambozola) Prestige Wine Wholesale $25.00 2006 Fritz-Josef Schwibinger Riesling Kabinett feinherb Niersteiner Auflangen (Red Slope) Rheinhessen Review Date - 7/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Germany is, of course, Riesling’s native turf, along with Alsace, France, which once was part of Germany. Planted on hills of red stone, these grapes yield a wine that reflects the distinct minerality of the soil. Riesling shows its classic self, presenting a pale straw color, and aromas and flavors that allude most discretely to the traditional yellow stone fruit characters. Low residual sugar (23 g/l or .23), brisk acidity (6.9 g/l or .69) and that intruiging minerality combine to craft a refreshing, mouthwatering wine with moderate alcohol (10%). This estate or weingut goes back to the 17th century. Note on feinherb: The term is being resurrected to replace halbtrocken, or off-dry. Trocken or dry Rieslings can often be mouth-searing, their acidity is so high, creating an opportunity for these well-balanced wines denoted by the term “feinherb.” They are gaining in popularity. The balance in this wine is what makes it especially splendid with or without food: cornmeal-crusted fried catfish with tartar sauce; fried oysters; smoked fish; smoked salmon with cream cheese wrapped in lavosh; fried chicken; roast pork; roast turkey; baked or roasted whole white fish, such as snapper, striped bass, flounder; crab; schnitzel; späzle; vegetarian dishes such as baked sweet potato-stuffed Vidalia onions; potato-focused dishes; nutty aged cheeses, such as German Hirtenkäse. I would also try this with salads and very lean beef. Bacco Fine Wine $22.00 2008 Eberle Syrah Rosé Paso Robles Steinbeck Vineyard Review Date - 7/1/2009 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Long involved with Eberle, Steinbeck Vineyards, which I have just visited, supplies both Syrah and Viognier to the winery , and has just released its own line of wines available only at the vineyard. (No, there’s no connection to the author; I asked, of course.) This long has been one of my favorite rosés. Full-bodied, this dry wine expresses all I enjoy in a rosé, and would suit happily red wine enthusiasts who typically wouldn’t care a thing for a pink wine. The color is a deep reddish pink, and the aromas and flavors capture fine red fruits without being overtly fruity. Hints of strawberry, baking spices, red cherry and red raspberry are well welded, and good acidity keeps the long finish in focus. This one you can sip all day and not tire your palate at the end of the meal. Foods: Spicy lobster/crab dip or shrimp dip; romesco sauce with grilled chicken or pork tenderloin; smoked salmon; baked or grilled salmon; chorizo (but not too hot); salamis and other cured meats; coppo- or prosciutto-wrapped chicken tenders; shrimp or scallops; roast or fried chicken; chicken cacciatore, grilled ham steak, lamb chops rubbed with a mild Moroccan seasoning; grilled sausages, especially lamb; vegetarian Persian dishes based on legumes, especially lentils; baked beans (not too sweet); Cajun-seasoned turkey. It’s really quite endless. Prime Wine & Spirits $17.00 2006 Ste. Chapelle Riesling Idaho Review Date - 7/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: With its first AVA (Snake River) firmly under its belt, Idaho now is well position to emerge as a player in the wine world of the Pacific Northwest. Focusing on Riesling makes sense for any winemaker in the state as its cool climate provides the perfect circumstance for the grape, which Ste. Chapelle makes in both a dry and a sweet style, and makes as sparkling Riesling and as ice wine. This is the sweeter of the two still dinner wines, and its numbers tell the story of what makes this an exciting wine. With residual sugar at 2.89 g/l, a wicked low ph of 3.0, and high TA (.81 g/l), this is a study in how a sweet wine can have balance and complexity. From aromas to palate, the yellow stone fruit characters explode and captivate with their intensity and complexity. The light golden yellow color gives the wine lovely eye appeal as well. Amazing value. Foods: duck or goose liver mousse; spicy Asian fare; curried chicken or seafood dishes; dishes with ginger; roast pork rubbed with ginger, cardamom, and turbinado sugar (try Hans Rueffert’s “Sugar Baby” seasoning rub); baked ginger salmon with cucumber Asian salsa; dishes with whole-grain mustard and cream (on pork or chicken cutlets); very ripe triple cream cheeses (Pierre Robert—unbelievable!) or aged, nutty cheeses (German Hirtenkäse). Georgia Crown $9.00 2008 Hendry Ranch Rosé Napa Valley Review Date - 7/1/2009 Score - 89 Tasting Note: A symphony of red wine grapes—Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Malbec and Primitivo—the Hendry rosé is a saignée, a term that denotes being made from juices that run freely off the freshly picked grapes. Then the wine is fermented at cool temperatures as if it were a white wine. As a result, it presents a range of vibrant red fruit aromas, from strawberry to red raspberry, red cherry, and do we detect a mite of rhubarb in the whole business? Fermented dry, it’s nonetheless juicy and refreshing, exhibiting good fruit sweetness with a long, dry finish. Winemaker George Hendry calls it “a porch wine.” Porch. Pool. Back yard. Dining room. Kitchen. Anywhere. Foods: The winery says try it with fish tacos. We think that’s a smart idea, but wouldn’t turn it down with chicken or pork-filled tacos either. Or fajitas. Also slightly spicy shrimp dip; prosciutto-wrapped shrimp fried or grilled; smoked shrimp; spice-rubbed pork tenderloin; Cajun deep-fried turkey; grilled not-too-hot spicy sausages, such as linguiça; chorizo, paella; Asian beef or pork dishes with some spice Prestige Wine Wholesale $18.00 2007 Argyros Santorini Review Date - 6/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: The remains of a monstrous volcanic explosion that consumed an earlier small island, Santorini is an archipelago of volcanic soil that sits in the southern Aegean Sea, about 120 miles southeast of the Greek mainland. Viewed from a satellite, the archipelago lies in a circular formation. The volcanic soil contributes extraordinary minerality to the wines that its grapes produce, yielding wines of amazing freshness when young but that have some aging potential as well. While there are examples of barrel-fermented white Santorini wines, those done in stainless steel seem to be the most satisfying, but then they’re not the long-term keepers the barrel-fermented ones may be. This example is composed of traditional grapes: Assyrtico (90%); Aidani (5%) and Athiri (5%). Its very pale straw color, citrusy aromas with some aromatic spice introduce a generous palate of acid-threaded pear-citrus fruit. The long, clean, crisp finish respects the palate, preparing it for another sip. Mouthwatering and inviting, it’s the ideal introduction to Greek white wines. Foods: Greek appetizers, including stuffed grape leaves; taramosalata on unsalted potato chips; spinach pie (spanikopita); Greek potatoes with tzaziki sauce; calamari with lemon or a lemon aïoli; hummus and pita bread; cubes of feta cheese with olive oil and herbs; saganaki; Santorini pizza (with artichokes, olives, peppers, spinach and feta—at Athens Pizza); roast chicken with lemon; all manner of mild fish (try with red snapper brushed with olive oil, herbs and grilled over charcoal). United Distributors $17.00 2007 Roberto Anselmi Bianco San Vincenzo I.G.T. Review Date - 6/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Known for his single-vineyard Soaves, Roberto Anselmi takes his Soave seriously and keeps yields limited so the wines are intensely aromatic and show great fruit. But for this wine, he blends the traditional Soave grape, Garganega (80%), with Chardonnay (15%) and Soave Trebbiano (5%). That’s why it’s labeled “Bianco” (white), and I.G.T. rather than D.O.C. so that Anselmi may step outside the box to blend grape types that aren’t D.O.C. for Soave. Medium-bodied with a medium golden straw color, this dry white wine suggests pear and white melon in the aromas, set off by a subtle nuttiness. Minerality joins the fruit flavors on the palate, which blends notes of pear, melon and citrus. The flavors linger, giving at least a full minute of finish. Very good value. Foods: all the shellfish and mild white fish, grilled red snapper; baked flounder stuffed with crabmeat; crab cakes; soft-shell crabs; mild curry in seafood or chicken salads; calamari with lemon or aïoli; slightly spicy shrimp/lobster dip; white pizza (try thinly sliced potato, Vidalia onion, mozzarella di bufala and arugula); guacamole; pasta salad with Parmesan cheese, garlic and smoked mozzarella cheese (Whole Foods); soft cheese and herb dip; Parmesan potato cakes; croquetas (chicken or fish); stuffed cocktail potatoes. Georgia Crown $15.00 2007 Skouras Moscofilero Peleponnese Review Date - 6/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: As we move into warm weather, light white wines are what we crave for light foods. Think about Greece for some of these wines, especially those based on the native Greek varieties, such as this one. Moscofilero (mow-skow-FEE-lair-oh), sometimes spelled Moscophilero, is one of those grapes that makes a refreshing, zingy summer sipper. This one shows a slight spritziness and a pale yellow color, and opens with a fresh pear/melon scent. On the palate, a fruit-sweet melon/pear flavor gets additional interest and complexity from an almost chalky minerality. Clean with sweet fruit but a dry finish, this is a terrific aperitif and seafood wine. Foods: taramosalata; stuffed grape leaves; spanikopita, stuffed cocktail-size potatoes; crab cakes; shrimp or chicken with Thai green curry cream; goat cheese; baked oysters with cream and lemon; grilled Vidalia onion pork bratwurst; pan-fried crumbed catfish with tartar sauce; crab-stuffed flounder; grilled or crumbed fried scallops; calamari with lemon aïoli; chicken or fish piccatta, with lemon and capers. United Distributors $17.00 2005 Kuehn Gewüztraminer Sonnerberg Vineyard Alsace Review Date - 6/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Alsace is famous for its Germanic grape varieties, including Riesling and Gewürztraminer. The latter is a grape that most consumers have a difficult time with, as its exotic character can be challenging. From a family that is known for its dry wines produced from several vineyards, this example is classic in its exotic character, with aromas of litchi nuts and assorted blossoms The palate presents an elegance that makes the wine particularly food friendly, although not with the spicy Indian fare we often thing to use with it. Asian pear apple, litchi nut and ripe fruit characters shape the palate. The lingering dry finish, good acidity, and voluptuous mouthfeel make this a winner with a wide variety of foods that are more traditionally Alsace/German. Foods: Alsace onion tart (Café Alsace in Decatur); grilled veal sausages with caramelized onions and Dijon mustard; braised pork shoulder with sauerkraut (rinse it well before putting it on the meat for further cooking); Alsace choucroute garnie; roast pork loin with garlic mashed potatoes; slow-roasted breast of veal; goat brie; French Münster. Peach State $22.00 2005 Georg Gustav Huff Riesling Spätlese Trocken Neirsteiner Hipping Rheinhessen Review Date - 6/1/2009 Score - 96 Tasting Note: The best of all possible worlds when it comes to German Riesling has to be Spätlese Trocken. The ripe fruit character combined with the dry finish makes for one of the most satisfying combinations in a bottle of wine. Taste one of these, and all memory of liquefied lollipops masquerading as Riesling will be banished from your brain. This is a classic example, showing a lovely golden color and a tangerine/kumquat aroma, with just a hint of the diesel character that Rieslings often acquire with time. Complexity defines the palate, which shows volumes of exotic fruit, minerality and acidity, all stitched together in a fine balancing act. The vineyard’s red slate soil is credited with imparting to the wine its substantial mineraltiy. Mouthwatering, compelling, delicious, and nearly impossible to stop sipping. Great value. Foods: cold Asian noodles, with peanut sauce and sesame seeds; spicy tangerine chicken, almost any not too spicy Asian pork or seafood dish; although Asian style lamb and beef dishes would be good, too, if prepared with ginger and mild spice; roast pork; sautéed pork steaks or chicken breasts with whole-grain mustard cream sauce; grilled sausages and caramelized onions; sauerbraten; venison with dark gingersnap sauce. Bacco Fine Wine $18.00 2007 Zapadorado Verdejo Rueda Review Date - 6/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Sitting just north of Madrid about an hour’s drive, Rueda, which extends over both Segovia and Valladolid provinces, is all about white wine, although there are some reds from the region as well. Interestingly, when I visited the region back on the mid 90s, I asked about reds and was told at the Consejo that they were not of interest. Rubbish. But Verdejo is the major white wine grape of Rueda, along with Sauvignon Blanc. Some Palomino Fino (the same grape that makes Sherry) also is grown. Verdejo (pronounced vair-DAY-ho) rocks. In general, the wines exhibit serious fruit intensity, often suggesting grapefruit (especially if there’s some Sauvignon Blanc blended in). Landlocked Rueda is about as dry as it gets, with rocky, stony soil on land that gets no higher than rolling. This example is 100% Verdejo, a full-bodied dry white wine with an intriguing aniseed-accented yellow-stone fruit aroma. Forget the grapefruit. Gold-straw in color, the wine offers a fruit-rich palate that suggests a wide range of yellow fruits, including pineapple. A long, crisp finish and well-integrated fruit-acidity craft a “compleat” wine. As the wine opens, it becomes increasingly complex, with a solid core of minerality. I adore that slightly bitter/chalky edge that surfaces in the finish. As the wine unfolds, a bit of grapefruit peel emerges. Foods: Mildly seasoned white foods, no matter what they are. So, simple grilled, baked, roasted or poached white fish; (halibut with garlic, salt and pepper—period); grilled crab-stuffed shrimp wrapped in prosciutto; Parmesan potato cakes; simple paella made with saffron, seafood, chicken; roast chicken; roasted breast of veal; grilled Vidalia onion bratwurst; grilled trout stuffed with bacon and fresh herbs Quality Wine & Spirits $15.00 2007 Martínez Serrantes Alba Rosa Albariño Rías Baixes Review Date - 6/1/2009 Score - 89 Tasting Note: The Val do Salnés in the heart of Rías Baixas is said to be the ancestral home of the grape albariño. Early spring rains affected flowering followed by an attack of mildew reduced the yield for the 2007 vintage by about half. The remaining harvest yielded intense, aromatic, fruit-driven wines. This example shows a pale greenish straw color, with aromas of white and yellow stone fruits. There’s a citrus note as well. The good acid on the palate supports a fine fruit profile, adding strength to the long, fruit-filled finish. The term “albariño” could mean “little white” one or “white from the Rhine,” as some have thought it may have come from Germany with the monastic movement going to Santiago de Comostela in Galicia. Others insist the grape is native to Galicia. Either way, it seems obvious the grape and scallops were created with each other in mind. My view is this grape should never see oak. No way; no how. Its freshness and classic fruit flavors would be impaired if it were to see oak. Foods: raw or roasted oysters with lemon; seafood mousses; scallops dusted in seasoned flour and sautéed, tartar sauce or lemon wedges; mild white fish with salsa verde (that is olive oil and mixed minced fresh herbs); bacalao (salted cod) fritters; pan-fried catfish; flounder stuffed with crab meat United Distributors $18.00 2007 Borie de Noaillan Bordeaux Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Bordeaux produces more than some of the world’s foremost red wines. There are white wines, some produced by the renowned red wine houses. And, yes, there are dry rosés, too. As with all dry Bordeaux whites, this one is produced from the classic Bordeaux varieties: Sauvignon Blanc (33%); Semillon (33%); and Muscadelle (33%). Medium-bodied with a medium pale greenish straw color, the wine presents a fresh, clean scent, but not of primary fruit. On the palate, clean, fresh slightly minerally flavors craft a wine that works well as a solo sipper, never tiring the palate. Nothing grassy or overly herbaceous.This is a great value. Foods: Light appetizers, such as cocktail quiches; croquetas; goat cheese; crumbed, raw oysters with lemon; lightly fried shellfish (scallops, oysters, shrimp) or mild fish (catfish, flounder) with tartar sauce; seafood mousse; seafood salads; crab cakes; fried or sautéed soft-shell crab Bacco Fine Wine $14.00 2007 JM Fonseca Twin Vines Vinho Verde Review Date - 6/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Fresh, zingy, slightly spritzy and showing lively fruit, this classic Portuguese white wine takes its name from the country’s largest winegrowing region. Lying just south of the Minho River, the region shares with its neighbor to the north, Galicia, the cultivation of the white grape albariño/alvarinho, one of the components of the white wines of Vinho Verde. The specific composition of this example is 35% Loureiro, 23% Trajadura, 22% Pedernã, 20% Alvarinho, all traditional Portuguese grape types. Light-bodied and showing a pale greenish straw color, this example reveals aromas of fresh summer fruits, including white melon, citrus and crisp apple. On the palate these fruit flavors and a definite spritziness that is characteristic of the genre make for the ideal aperitif and summer wine. Gentle alcohol: 10%. The 2008 vintage should be on the shelf soon, but the 2007 is still drinking nicely. These are not keepers, so do no cellar. The 2008 vintage should be shipped shortly, but the 2007 is still drinking well. Foods: seafood mousse; non-oily sashimi (i.e., NOT mackerel, salmon, etc.); goat cheese; bacalão (salted cod) fritters; stuffed cocktail-sized potatoes; shellfish; delicate fin fish (sole, flounder, perch). National Distributing Co. $18.00 2007 Sella & Mosca La Cala Vermentino Sardinia Review Date - 6/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: A Mediterranean varietal also known as Rolle in France, Vermentino even grows in North Carolina (see Raffaldini, in the Swan Creek Valley). It makes the perfect seafood wine, but it has other uses as well. Vermentino is the icon white wine grape of Sardinia (Sardegna in Italian), an island between France and Italy. This medium-bodied dry white wine shows a pale straw with greenish glints and presents floral aromas with hints of lime blossom. On the palate, fruit and minerality march in lockstep crafting a mouthwatering mid palate and leading to a long, satisfying, crisp finish. And glass after glass, the palate never tires thanks to the wine’s fresh vibrancy. Superb value. Very flexible with food: Calamari with lemon aïoli; beef carpaccio (no kiddin’); seafood mousses and salads; crumbed, fried seafood from scallops to shrimp to catfish; fish ‘n’ chips; mussels; Greek-style pizza; mild creamy cheeses; grilled snapper or fresh anchovies. Georgia Crown $13.00 2008 Cantina Peppucci Grechetto di Todi Montorsolo D.O.C. Review Date - 6/1/2009 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Talk about a wine the fairly breathes seafood, makes you feel an ocean breeze and takes you on a walk on the beach after a seafood supper. A sense of place is rarely this palpable in a bottle of wine, but this interpretation of the Grechetto grape does all that. A medium-bodied dry white wine with a greenish yellow straw color, the wine introduces the nose to a refined fruit aroma that promises lively fruit flavors. The palate comes alive with the evolved fruit flavors laced with a stony minerality and backed up by firm acidity. Freshness and a clean, long finish keep one coming back for more. Serve moderately cool as excessive cold will kill the fruit flavors, around 50-55ºF/10-13ºC, and use medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Did we say seafood? And more seafood. Oysters with lemon (not cocktail sauce); grilled head-on shrimp with garlic, olive oil, sea salt and a splash or two of the wine or lemon; mussels steamed with garlic, herbs and white wine or beer; scallop ceviche with tomato and fresh herbs; crab legs with drawn butter; sautéed soft-shell crabs; not bad either with a chicken breast roasted atop a bed of sliced onions and garlic. Bacco Fine Wine $15.00 2005 Daniel Reverdy Sancerre Review Date - 6/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Put off by the aggressive grapefruit of some of the Down Under examples of Sauvignon Blanc? Don’t like the in-your-face grassiness of some American examples? Here’s your answer: The Sauvignon Blanc of the Loire Valley, produced in Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé and Menetou-Salon, captures the core minerality of the region and shows expressive fruit, but does so with elegance and restraint compared with other regions of the wine-growing world. Showing a pale straw color, this example is clearly Sauvignon Blanc, with a fresh slight white grapefruit fresh herb aroma. On the palate, the chalky minerality blends well with the white citrus fruit character. Finely tuned, the Sauvignon Blanc characters are clear but not obsessively aggressive. Elegance is the operating imperative. The 2005 vintage is one of Europe’s best in decades, but don’t cellar this wine. Foods: Seafood mousse; raw or roasted oysters with lemon; oysters Rockefeller; spinach quiche; goat brie (oooooh); garlic shrimp; simple baked white fish (flounder, sole, striped bass, trout); salmon cakes; Parmesan potato cake; grilled or roasted vegetables; oven-roasted potatoes with tzaziki sauce; slow-roasted chicken on a bed of onions with garlic cloves tucked under the skin, lemon splash. Peach State $23.00 2002 Spiropoulos Ode Panos Review Date - 5/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Do we think of Greece as a producer of sparkling wine? Well, think again, because it is. Greek law doesn’t allow vintage or appellation to be applied to sparkling wines, so don’t be concerned about that. Moscofilero, a crisp, light white wine grape, is the grape type used to produce this crisp sparkler whose second fermentation occurred in a tank (Charmat method). These grapes are grown organically at Domaine Spiropoulos, founded in 1879. This medium-bodied dry white sparkling wine shows a very pale yellow color and a moderately persistent fine bead. Delicate aromas of citrus and quince prepare the palate for the same characters. There’s a good mid-palate and the flavors continue through a moderate finish. Residual sugar (.9) keeps it within the “brut” range. Foods: Classic French onion dip and unsalted potato chips (doesn’t like the salted ones); taramosalata (excellent); smooth liver mousses; calamari with lemon aioli; fried cheeses-stuffed zucchini blossoms; stuffed vine leaves (dolmades); deep-fried Greek potato balls; vegetable croquettes; raw oysters with lemon and other lightly cooked seafood. OK with salmon caviar, but not exciting. Georgia Distributor: United Distributors $19.00 Conde de Subirats Brut Rose Cava Review Date - 5/1/2009 Score - 89 Tasting Note: From the very birthplace of Cava itself, this wine brings the joy of bubbles to causal fare while being light on the wallet. It’s a treat for the eye as well with its medium-deep reddish pink color. A brut, its 10 grams of residual sugar are well within the limits for brut. Prepare for a trip back in time to childhood, as this medium-bodied dry sparkling wine puts forth aromas of candied apple and cinnamon hearts. The palate amasses a bouquet of red fruits, from pomegranate to raspberry to red currant. The crisp, clean finish makes it lovely for a wide variety of foods. This is an exciting value. Grapes: Trepat (90%); Pinot Noir (10%). Foods: five-spice powder dusted slow-roasted pork belly with apple juice; barbecued ribs or chicken; mildly seasoned chili or Brunswick stew; roast ham or grilled ham steak; pork or duck rilletes; Mongolian beef and other Asian meat and chicken dishes with spice, Serrano ham, paella. Georgia Distributor: Avant Partir $15.00 Villa Granda Prosecco I.G.T. Frizzante Review Date - 5/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Prosecco is a grape type from which Italy makes its classic, light-bodied, crisp Italian sparkling wine, made in the Charmat method. This is usually a very well priced category of wines ($15-25), and provides a lovely opportunity to enjoy sparkling wine at a beach picnic or at brunch. You’ll have to open this one with a corkscrew. The wine shows a pale yellow color and a fine, rather persistent bead. A slight almond note in the aromas introduces a well-balanced off-dry sparkling white wine with a pale yellow color. The wine’s delicate scent hints of citrus and flowers, while on the palate crisp, clean white fruit flavors including a bit of white peach make this a wine useable in many circumstances. Great value. Foods: petizers: aroncini (deep-fried rice balls); taramosalata; calamari with lemon aioli; grilled scallops with classic rémoulade (not Creole); raw or roasted oysters with lemon; Main dishes: delicate poached or baked seafood and fish with delicate sauces, pasta or potatoes; pasta with pesto and shrimp; shrimp salad; spaghetti squash or cappellini with fresh basil and Manchego cheese, olive oil; sautéed soft-shell crab with a little curry powder in the dusting flour. Georgia Distributor: United Distributors $11.00 1 + 1 = 3 Cava Brut Review Date - 5/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Cava is the term Spain uses to denote sparkling wines made in the traditional method; that is, with the second fermentation taking place in the specific bottle you hold in your hands. This one is a medium-bodied dry sparkling wine that exhibits a lovely pale straw color and zippy small-bead bubbles. On the nose, initial citrus-focused aromas develop into more focused lemon curd aromas. The palate shows a lovely spice-centered core, with a hint of ginger, restrained fruit and a clean, crisp, long finish. Moderate alcohol (11.5%), allows one to enjoy multiple glasses of this well-priced sparkler. Grapes: 45% Xarel.lo, 35% Parellada, 25% Macabeo. In Spain, cava often is offered after a meal, but it makes a lovely aperitif as well. Foods: Greek taramosalata on a sea-salted potato chip (hard to stop tasting this one!); salmon caviar on a salted potato chip with a dab of Mexican crema agria; pistachios; potato-based nibbles, such as tiny potatoes stuffed with sour cream, chives, and either a bit of salmon caviar or some smoked salmon; dim sum; Korean egg-and-crab pancakes; shrimp-based dips or salad; calamari with lemon aioli; sushi. Georgia Distributor: United Distributors $22.00 2005 Jean Pierre Dirler Crémant d’Alsace Review Date - 5/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Outside of Champagne, regions making sparkling wine need to use the word “Crémant,” not to be confused with Cramant, one of Champagne’s grand cru villages. So a sparkling wine from Alsace, Burgundy, the Loire, Bordeaux will all be designated “Crémant.” Alsace’s major white wine grapes play roles in this example: Pinot Noir (30%); Pinot Gris (35%); Auxxerois (35%). This wine displays a medium gold color, an ample mousse, and in the aromas, hints of ginger, flowers and exotic spice. On the palate, look for a sublime richness and complexity, with well-evolved yellow fruit flavors and a silky texture. The long dry finish hangs on to the fruit. There is no dosage (the sugar-adjusting liqueur usually but electively inserted into the wine at the end of sparkling wine process). The vineyards are biodynamic. Foods: Rich foods, such as slow-roasted spice-rubbed pork belly or roast pork loin; chicken thighs braised on a bed or caramelized onions; roast chicken; all manner of Asian dishes (even egg foo yung, Mongolian beef, pepper steak); rich creamy cheeses (goat brie, Delice de Bourgogne). Georgia Distributor: Avant Partir $15.00 Domaine des Aubuisieres Vouvray Brut Review Date - 5/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Bernard Fouquet is esteemed as one of the principal winemakers of Vouvray, in the Loire Valley, enclosing France’s longest river. Vouvray is all about the Chenin Blanc grape, a grape that often gets no respect in America. But if the naysayers could just taste these wines! This sparkling wine is medium-bodied with persistent tiny bubbles and a medium pale yellow straw color. On the nose, the aroma of honey and white fruits provides a fine introduction to the wine. Fleshy, ripe fruit flavors with slight ginger and exotic spice notes in the finish govern the palate, and good, crisp acidity lends substantial backbone to this well-balanced wine. The mousse seems to continue in the mouth, as the pétillance (sparkle) has a good bit of verve and spirit. Pure delight and a great value. Foods: boiled peanuts; Ikura (salmon caviar) on lightly salted potato chips and Mexican cream; sushi; dim sum; taramosalata; sweetwater fish delicately prepared and lightly sauced; baked scallops with a creamy sauce and mashed potatoes; chicken breast roasted atop a bed of thinly sliced onions and garlic; Asian poultry and seafood dishes; chicken salad; sautéed soft-shell crab; crab cakes; king crab legs with drawn butter, creamy full-flavored cheeses (goat brie). Georgia Distributor: Unique World Wines $15.00 2003 Bruno Giacosa Spumante Brut Review Date - 5/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Pinot Noir is one of the three classical grapes of Champagne. It can be used alone and made into a white sparkling wine simply by not allowing any juice-skin contact. This is a “Blanc de Noir” or white made from black grapes. And that’s what we have here in this Italian spumante or sparkling wine, which is entirely made from Pinot Noir (or, in Italian, pinot nero). This medium-bodied dry white wine shows a medium pale straw yellow color. Done in the traditional method (that is, fermented in the bottle you hold), the wine presents a strong, persistent bead. On the nose, toasty aromas with ripe fruit characters introduce a dry, generous, distinctive palate with just a hint of butterscotch. With just three grams of residual sugar, it falls into the “extra brut” category. Very dry. The crisp, clean finish and moderate acidity (just 5.5g/l) make it an excellent food wine with rich fare. Offered by the glass at Eno. Foods: terrines; spiced pork belly; roast chicken; grilled duck breast rubbed with Chinese five-spice powder; grilled or roasted Cornish hen; meat pies; as an aperitif with meat-filled empanadas; lamb lollipops; or meat-focused dim sum. Georgia Distributor: Empire Distributing $35.00 Baumard Crémant de Loire Review Date - 5/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: In Anjou, a rosé, whether still or sparkling, will be made from one of the Cabernets, most likely Cabernet Franc. That’s the case with this delightful sparkling wine, made entirely from Cabernet Franc, thus is a “blanc de noir.” With a visually enticing delicate pale pink color, this medium-bodied dry sparkling wine shows a fine persistent bead. The aromas announce an elegant wine, with delicate red fruit characters and some herbal notes. On the palate, Cabernet Franc’s character shows, with a suggestion of cold tea in mid palate. A slight, pleasant malt note closes the crisp finish. Good acidity. Foods: spiced pecans; liver mousses; marcona almonds drizzled with honey; caprino (creamy goat cheese); grilled shrimp with sun-dried tomato aioli; shrimp paste or pickled shrimp with tomato; rillettes; pork roast; roast chicken. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wines/NDC Billecart-Salmon Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve Review Date - 5/1/2009 Score - 95 Tasting Note: I was in South Africa when I first tasted Billecart-Salmon. It was the rosé, and I went into instant high swoon. On the spot. Derived from the early 19th century marriage of Nicolas François Billecart and Elizabeth Salmon who founded the house in 1818, Champagne Billecart-Salmon is operated today by the fifth generation successors. Full-bodied and showing a medium straw color, with persistent bead, the wine is a brut (dry). What aromas! Toasty, but with brilliant pear-and-melon-like fruit, cushaw or golden watermelon. Elegant and refined. On the palate, brioche and ripe fruit vie for attention, as the complex yet elegant flavors conclude in a mouthwatering acid-backed finale. Well cellared, it should keep about a decade from when first disgorged. Grapes are the usual: Pinot Noir; Chardonnay; Pinot Meunier, but percentages vary slightly from year to year. All grapes are from the Marne department. Foods: Pistachios; eggs Benedict and similar brunch egg-based dishes; crab Benedict; eggs Sardou; chicken liver mousse on small toasts; kura caviar with Mexican cream on a baked, low-salt potato chip; taramosalata; French onion dip; poulet à la crème; lobster; King crab legs with drawn butter; crab casserole; roast chicken; prime rib; and, yes, my friend’s lightly salted “boil’” peanuts. Delicious, in fact. Georgia Distributor: Avant Partir $55.00 2007 Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé Stellenbosch Review Date - 5/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: South Africa’s answer to the need to rename its sparkling wine in deference to Champagne “Cap Classique,” a term that denotes the traditional method of making sparkling wine with the second fermentation occurring in the bottle you hold. Normally, this wine also has a bit of Pinot Meunier, but not the 2007 vintage as a heat wave caught the Pinot Meunier harvest unawares and rendered it unbalanced. So, this example is 90% Pinotage (a cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault), with 10% Pinot Noir. It shows an intense reddish pink color, and pours a fine mousse and a steady pinpoint bead. Intense berry aromas greet the nose, while on the palate fresh red berries yield a rich, rewarding experience. A long, crisp, clean finish invites another sip. Residual sugar levels of just 6 grams/liter take it to the bottom of the brut scale, which, combined with good acidity (6.6 g/l), yield a wine that handles a wide variety of foods. Foods: Think spice: spice-rubbed pork roast, duck; lamb; South African specialties, such as bobotie; biltong; roti (South African Malaysian fare); mushroom salad with red onion and herbs; Southern barbecue with tomato-based sauce; barbecued chicken; smoked meats; smoked or cured salmon; grilled salmon; lamb lollipops; Asian meat dishes with exotic but not hot spices; goat brie (stunning!), red fruit desserts that aren’t too sweet; dark chocolate-covered red fruits. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $25.00 2004 Iron Horse Brut Sonoma County Green Valley Classic Vintage Review Date - 5/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Iron Horse is practically synonymous with American sparkling wine, certainly more so than any other winery. Its Russian Cuvée crafted especially for the Reagan-Gorbachev summit is a bit sweeter and creamier in texture than this one. Grape types: Pinot Noir (68%) and Chardonnay (32%). Full-bodied and dry, with a pale gold color, the wine offers positively heady red cherry/apple aromas, while the palate presents tangy lemon and Fuji or Braeburn apple characters that precede a long, crisp, clean finish. Aged three years on the yeast lees, the wine shows a lovely creaminess and complexity. Foods: Winery says comfort foods, and I agree: French onion dip and lightly salted potato chips; classic mac ‘n’ cheese; fries and aioli; deep-fried catfish (or other seafood) with tartar sauce; lightly salted pistachios; oysters (raw or cornmeal fried) with lemon; creamy soups; deviled crab; chicken pie. Georgia Distributor: National Distributing $30.00 J Vineyards Brut Cuvée 20 Russian River Valley Review Date - 5/1/2009 Score - 94 Tasting Note: This is one of the most all-purpose sparkling wines, with an ability to pair with food that is frankly uncommon. Cool-climate vineyard sites in this sparkling wine-focused AVA yield a blend of classic grapes, the same blend that Champagne uses to make its icon wines: Chardonnay (49%); Pinot Noir (49%); and Pinot Meunier (2%). Some 25% of the wines were oak cask finished, contributing substantially to the wine’s richness, along with extended sur lie aging. This is a delicious piece of work, whose residual sugar just barely crawls over the “brut” line, at 1.65%. The wine is disgorged (readied for market) after three years of bottle age. The very pale silvery yellow color invites the eye, and the lively bead keeps the palate engaged. Crisp, clean, and rich, this full-bodied sparkling wine shows a lively lemon-kissed aroma, with rich, complex lemon, baked apple, nuts, and toast flavors. As it warms and opens in the flute, it becomes even richer. Foods: pistachios; raw or roasted oysters with lemon or mignonette; ikura (salmon roe) with Mexican cream on a low-salt potato chip or blini. Asian dumplings with ponzu sauce for dipping; cornmeal-crusted calamari with lemon aioli, creamy liver pâtés; creamy seafood or other bisques, lobster with melted butter and lemon, crab cakes; sautéed soft-shell crabs; baked fish; roast chicken; grilled steak with horseradish sauce; grilled scallops with Creole-style rëmoulade or lemon aioli; mild triple-cream cheeses (St. André; Explorateur). Georgia Distributor: National Distributing $35.00 2006 Principi di Porcia Villa di Azzano Tocai Italico DOC Friuli Review Date - 4/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: A full-bodied dry white wine, this wine will soon have to be produced without the use of the word “Tocai” as the Hungarian wine producers have successfully gotten the European Union to reserve that term for its superb legendary sweet wine. The grape will be called simply “Friulano” in the future, as it’s grown in the northeastern provinces of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia. As this wine matures in the bottle, its color deepens to a medium gold, and its fruit becomes a medley of yellow stone fruits that have been allowed to dry and deepen in flavor. On the nose, aromas of dried yellow stone fruits—apricots especially—pick up a hint of wet straw and spice. A complex, deeply flavored palate of yellow fruits adds a certain stony minerality. Serve just moderately cool, about 60ºF/15ºC, in tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: potato gnocchi with garlic, herbs and cream sauce; pasta with smoked mozzarella, garlic and olive oil; chicken salad with yellow fruits; sautéed full-bodied fish (fresh cod, halibut) with olive oil and garlic; baked scallops with piped mashed potatoes; rich but mild semi-firm cheeses, such as Caccio di Roma. Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $15.00 2007 Donnafugata Sicilia Anthilia Review Date - 4/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Exploring the wines of Sicily takes one down a different path in terms of the grapes one encounters in wines and in terms of the foods one might pair with them. This example shows an intense, floral, aromatic character with a slight scent of honey on the nose, and on the palate displays evolved fruit focused on peach/pear/plum characters. A chalky minerality infuses the wine, adding to its complexity. A Sicilian classic, Anthìlia blends taste and an appealing mouthfeel. The bottle’s image references the flight of a woman, the meaning of the title “donna fugata.” Grapes: Ansonica 50% and Catarratto 50%. Sometimes other grapes play a role, according to the vintage. Very nice value. Serve moderately cool, about 55-60ºF/13-15ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods; crab and red pepper pâté; smoked trout pâté (and probably other smoked fish as well); halibut with mustard bread crumbs; baccalà salad; dishes with saffron (such as risotto ai frutti di mare, or seafood risotto) Georgia Distributor: United Distributors $14.00 2007 Mario Giribaldi Gavi di Gavi Piemonte Review Date - 4/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Aromatic and medium-full-bodied, this dry white wine shows a medium straw color. On the nose, the scent of wet stone (suggesting the minerals to come) and a hint of anise make a fine introduction. The palate takes over with evolved fruit, minerals, fresh herbs, and a hint of bitter almond. Complex and beautifully structured, with luscious acidity that pushes the fruit through the finish, this is a classic. Grape type: Cortese. Enjoy now. Don’t let this get too cold, about 60ºF/15ºC in medium-sized tulip-shaped white-wine glasses. Foods: Oh my, where do I start? Rich dishes. Crab-and-red pepper pâté with plain crackers; pasta with shrimp and creamy basil sauce; baked shellfish with butter and herbs; crumbed simple fish (flounder, cod) baked with butter and garlic; poached chicken in cream sauce; sautéed soft-shell crab; gnocchi with butter, herbs and freshly grated Parmesan; baccalà fritters; braised veal cheeks with cream; chicken breasts or thighs baked with caramelized onions; creamy, mild cheeses Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $22.00 2004 Icardi Brachetto Suri Vigin Piemonte Review Date - 4/1/2009 Score - 94 Tasting Note: One of the most delightful Italian wines is a low-alcohol, light-bodied sparkling wine with expressive, vibrant fruit and a moderate sweetness, Brachetto. Grown in the Piedmont, it displays a bright, translucent, ruby red color and a light effervescence. In this example, alcohol hits only 6.5%. Rose petals and raspberries define the aromas, while on the palate sweet red raspberry fruit completes the experience. Straightforward and uncomplicated, it’s meant to be enjoyed rather easily without much discussion, and may serve as an aperitif wine or as a dessert wine. The finish is clean, long and sweet. These are meant to be drunk fresh and young, so do not cellar. Serve chilled, about 50ºF/10ºC, in tall flutes. Foods: Creamy, mild cheeses (gorgonzola dolce); burrata with ham; strawberries, red raspberries and red cherries, fresh or dipped in dark chocolate; dark chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Vinifera $20.00 2006 Piero Costantini Villa dei Preti Frascati Superiore D. O. C. Review Date - 4/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Frascati is a wine made in the vicinity of Rome, in the province of Lazio (or Latium), where a town named Frascati dates to perhaps the seventh century. It’s home to Europe’s first free public school, founded in 1616, and home to numerous villas that were built by Roman nobility. The wine that bears its name is often thought of as insipid and uninteresting, but many years ago at VinItaly, I attended a dinner that featured Frascati, and confronted a yards-long table covered with sundry examples from a wide variety of producers. The flavor profile of Frascati is narrow, but these wines showed amazing variety within that narrow profile, and the dinner proved their wide-ranging food companionability. This example is a medium-bodied dry white wine with a medium gold color. The aromas reveal intense evolved yellow stone fruit, with a touch of almond. On the palate, intense well-developed yellow fruit flavors are mouth filling and provocative, with minerals and a delectable almond note that adds interest and character. Grape types: Malvasia di Candia 40%, Malvasia del Lazio 40%, Bombino Cacchione Trebbiano Grechetto 20%. The Villa de Preti is a small (two hectares) estate. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: potato gnocchi with cream sauce and fresh herbs; pasta with garlic and smoked mozzarella; shrimp sautéed with garlic, butter and white wine; breast of chicken gremolata (lemon zest and garlic) with mashed potatoes; bacalao fritters; aroncini (deep-fried rice balls); deep-fried calamari with lemon aioli; baked fish with garlic, olive oil and bread crumbs, sushi or sashimi, fresh cheeses. Georgia Distributor: Vinifera $21.00 2003 Veglio Barolo Piemont Review Date - 4/1/2009 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Made from the Nebbiolo grape, Barolo is the king of Italian noble red wines. Yet it’s not a blockbuster” in the California Cabernet sense. Instead, it’s gentle tannins, medium body and intriguing dusty dried-cherry aromas, spices and flavors compel one to enjoy a meal. This medium-bodied wine shows a limpid, translucent garnet red color, while the palate follows through with well-evolved dark and red fruits hinting at dried cranberries. Well-composed, well-knit, beautifully structured, and altogether gorgeous in the glass, the wine is classically Italian. Fruit is restrained, not forward. One would never mistake it for a California red wine. Veglio Michelino & Figlio is a small, family-owned and –operated vineyard in Piemonte. Serve moderately cool, about 65ºF/17ºC, in large tulip-shaped glasses. A keeper if well cellared, this one could go on for another decade. This is an astounding value in an expensive genre. One of the most food-companionable wines, it deserves pairing with uncomplicated dishes so that dining focuses on the wine: black olives; terrines; rosemary brochette of chicken livers; roast chicken; pasta dishes with meat sauces; game; duck; grilled pork chop; veal roast, roast turkey; roasted vegetable medley; eggplant dishes; firm, aged cheeses (Piave Nudo Stravecchio, for instance). Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $32.00 2005 Catarina Zardini Catarina Zardini Valpolicella Classico Superiore Verona Review Date - 4/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Valpolicella ranks second after Chianti in total DOC wine production. But typically it’s a light, quaffable pleasant wine. So if you’re accustomed to Valpolicella or the ordinary sort, we have an alternative for you! This full-bodied deep purple red dry wine is a handsome piece of work. Still young and tightly wound, it shows luscious fruits and a hint of graham cracker and spice in the nose. Supple tannins and rich, red fruits occupy the palate’s attention as good acidity keeps the fruit pushing through a long, mouth-watering close with a bang of cherry at the end. Here’s a keeper, likely for the next five years if well cellared, depending on how much age you like on your wines. Valpolicella is an agricultural zone surrounding Verona. Grapes: Corvina and Corrinone Veronese, 60%; Rondinella 40%. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65ºF/17ºC, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Textured terrines; pastas with garlic and rich cheeses or with game meat sauces or with oxtail meat; cured meats; braised red meat; grilled pork chop with sweet potatoes; grilled ham steak; roast or grilled duck with dark red fruits; roasted vegetables; semi-firm rich cheeses, such as Caccio di Roma; dark chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Unique World Wines $25.00 2005 Cantina Pappucci Alter Ego IGT Umbria Review Date - 4/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: It’s such a delight to watch the aromas emerge and develop in the glass with this wine, which comes from Umbria, a region in central Italy with its capital at Perugia. This full-bodied dry red wine shows an intense, deep, dark color, and presents aromas of spice and fresh dark fruits, especially plum with a hint of cinnamon. On the palate, the dark fruits are framed by serious tannins, assuring the wine’s usefulness with rich foods. Fruit, acidity and tannins are beautifully balanced, and the long finish is clean and tannic. Grape type: Sagranto, which is a very tannic grape native to Umbria, and a dab of Merlot. For that reason, the wine is I.G.T. (D.O.C.G. designation would require 100% Sagranto, which used to be made as a dessert wine.) A handsome wine. Serve around 65ºF/17ºC in tulip-shaped glasses. Begin in stainless steel, the wine then is aged in French oak. A good candidate for cellaring 5-8 years from vintage. Foods: smooth foie gras mousse or pâté rather than coarser terrines; gamier meats such as lamb or duck breast seasoned with five spice powder and sauced with dried cherries or other dried dark fruits and caramelized onions; Cornish hen grilled and brushed with dark fruit glaze; aged firm cheeses; dark chocolate (hubba!) Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $45.00 2006 Enzo di Sette Rue Nero d’Avola I.G.T. Silcilia Review Date - 4/1/2009 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Nero d’Avola means “black of Avola,” which is a small town in southeastern Sicily. It may well be Sicily’s most popular red wine grape. Some are made as big, full-bodied wines that have some aging potential, while others are made in a more youthful style designed for near-term consumption. This example follows that latter pattern, as it’s a medium-bodied, deeply colored red wine that offers aromas of sweet dark fruits and spice. The finish picks up a bit of vanilla, from the Slovenian oak in which its aged. Sweet fruit tannins and an easy-on-the-palate texture make for a wine that’s a good introduction for anyone approaching red wines for the first time. That fruit sweetness allows the wine to pair well with spice. Grape type: Nero d’Avola. Serve moderately cool, about 60ºF/15ºC, to enhance the fruit, and enjoy in large tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Peppered dry salami; meat terrines; red meats, whether roasted or grilled; pastas with vegetable or meat sauces; vegetable dishes, dark (64% cacao) chocolate (very nice). Georgia Distributor: Ultimate Distributors 2005 Tenuta I Quaranta Asia Barbera d’Asti Peimonte Review Date - 4/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: This is a full-bodied Barbera, with a deep ruby-red color, a spicy dark fruit aroma, and a lively, tangy acid core, typical of the grape, that runs right through the fruit, ensuring a long finish and a delicious fruit-filled close. As the wine opens, the aromas develop a cinnamon candy-candied apple nose. Silky, smooth tannins frame the fruit. Grape type: Barbera. Excellent, really, and a supremely fine value. Serve somewhat cool, about 60ºF/15ºC, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Likes earthy, full-flavored, somewhat rustic dishes, such as pasta salad with smoked mozzarella, garlic and cream; rough-textured terrines (rather than smooth pâtés); smoked meats and chicken; white beans (cannelini) with tomato and garlic; meatballs with mushrooms and tomato; chicken cacciatore; creamy blue cheese (gorgonzola dolce); dark chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Ultimate Distributing $17.00 2004 Fattoria Fibbiano Ceppatella IGT Tuscany Review Date - 4/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: A full-bodied dry red wine with an opaque, garnet-toned, dark ruby red color, this is unmistakably a classic Italian wine. Aromas start with plenty of spice—cinnamon and clove—and dark fruits, all of which carry through on the palate. The tannins are firm, fruit-sourced and likely to integrate well with the wine as it’s aired in a decanter or given more time in the bottle. Grape type: Sangiovese 90%; Colorino 10%. . An excellent food wine, it should be served cool, about 60-65ºF/15-17ºC, in generous tulip-shaped red-wine glasses. Definitely cellar material, for at least another half dozen years if well cellared. Foods galore: terrine of duck/pork; cured meats; game meats; salamis; smoked liverwurst; roast pork loin or tenderloin with mushrooms; braised pork belly, lamb; grilled or roast duck; stews, mature rich cheeses. Georgia Distributor: Choice Brands $40.00 2006 Castel Sole Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico D.O.C. Le Marche Review Date - 4/1/2009 Score - 89 Tasting Note: The Marshes, or Marche, are one of Italy’s 20 regions. East of Umbria, the Marche lie on the Adriatic and north of Abruzzo. Verdicchio, meaning a little green, denotes the greenish gold color that’s typical of the grape, including this example. Verdicchio grapes also may be used for sparkling and straw wine (passito), and when well structured can age a decade. This example shows the characteristic good acidity and nuttiness associatead with the grape. On the nose, the nuttiness and fruit characters meld seamlessly, while the palate shows fresh yellow fruits with a slight bitter almond note in the end. Medium- full-bodied, the wine has a clean, mouthwatering acid vein that runs from start to long finish. The palate holds on to the flavors for several minutes. If you plan to cellar some of this, do so at very cool temperatures, about 50-55ºF/10-13ºC, which also is its best serving temperature. Use a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Lots of foods will pair well with this wine: light antipasti; creamy pastas with pesto and seafood; risotto with seafood and saffron; chicken braised with onions and stock; butternut squash ravioli with butter and fresh herbs; grilled chicken apple sausage; veal or chicken stew; chicken salad with yellow fruits. Georgia Distributor: Wines to Treasure $14.00 2007 Cantine Del Borgo Reale Pinot Grigio Veneto Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 86 Tasting Note: With a large gathering, you have many taste preferences to consider. This light-bodied slightly spritzy white wine is made from the Pinot Grigio grape. It shows a very pale straw color and aromas of fresh fruit with a slight bitter almond character, typical of the type. Fruit sweetness informs the palate with fairly simple white fruit flavors. As with most white wines from the Veneto, its acidity is only moderate. This is a clean but simple quaff that will have good general appeal. Serve it moderately chilled, as too much cold will kill its flavors: 50-55ºF/10-13ºC. Kosher, Kosher for Passover and Mevushal. Foods: appetizers; fish simply prepared with lemon; bacalao fritters; miniature knishes, fish-based seviche with olive oil, herbs and lemon juice; fried chicken strips with honey mustard sauce. Georgia Distributor: La Fayette Selections $18.00 2007 Tait The Wild Ride Shiraz Southern Finders Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Here’s one that needs decanting for several hours before dinner. I’ve kept watch over it now for several days, and it only gets better and better. In fact, I wasn’t sure I liked it at all when I first opened it because I thought the effect of American oak was too obvious, with that talcum powder character it sometimes acquires. But as the days wore on, this full-bodied dark ruby red dry wine integrated the oak and fruit, until the wood characters finally yielded to the fruit. Finally, some white pepper emerged in the aromas, surging ahead of the oak. Dark fruit runs all over this wine, from boysenberry to black raspberry. While the coconut notes are still there in the mid-palate and in the finish, the balance between these two is quite lovely. Serves this wine at cool room temperature, about 60-65ºF/15-17ºC. Tait Wines is located at the southern end of the Barossa Valley, in Lyndoch, South Australia. The Tait family patriarch, Giovanni Tait, emigrated to Australia from Italy in 1957. Having learned cooperage from his father and grandfather before migrating to Australia, he went to work for B. Seppelt & Sons, then established his winery. Foods: smoked meats; pork steak with mustard sauce; legume-based dishes; prime rib; roast duck brushed with a dark jam glaze; grilled Argentine-style short ribs with sautéed mushrooms, leg of lamb, roasted fresh ham, mild cheeses, dark chocolate (ohmy!) Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $33.00 2006 Yarden Galilee Mount Hermon Red Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 87 Tasting Note: More proof that Kosher wines are not by definition sweet: This dry red wine is a testament to what the Golan Heights, lying in northern Israel, can produce. It’s a f ull-bodied dry wine with a medium-deep ruby red color. Aromas convey the scent of sweet dark fruit, later delivered on the palate: Black currant, black raspberry, and plum open for similar dark fruit flavors that capture a bit of dried fig in the finish. Very easy tannins conduct the fruit flavors through the wine’s long finish. Best served at cool room temperatures, 55-60ºF/13-15ºC, in large, tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Barbecued chicken; curried beef, braised lamb, grilled red meats; roast duck brushed with melted jam glaze; roast chicken; red meat casseroles. Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Co. $14.00 2004 Recanati Barbera Galilee Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Yup, Barbera. And you thought such a grape type couldn’t be Kosher? But Italy produces all manner of Italian grape types as Kosher wines. This example is a medium-bodied dry red wine with a purple-red color; it offers aromas that suggest dried dark fruits with a hint of black pepper, followed by flavors that blend dried and fresh dark fruits—plums, cherries, black currants, dark Muscat raisins. Barbera’s characteristic tartness is softened in this example, and the tannins and acidity are well integrated with the fruit. Mid palate thins out a bit. The oak aging occurs in one- and two-year-old French oak barrels. Integration of fruit and oak is spot on. Kosher and Kosher for Passover, but not Mevushal. Serve cool, about 60-65°F/15-17°C, in large tulip-shaped red-wine glasses. The name Recanati comes from a small 12th-century hill town jn the Marche on the Adriatic coast that was home to poets and painters. Foods: Chicken or veal gremolata (osso buco), braised lamb shank, grilled lamb sausages, cured meats, grilled meats, picadillo, lasagna, pasta with well-seasoned meat sauces. Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Co. $18.00 2007 Dominio de Eguren Vino de la Tierra de Castilla Rosado Protocolo Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Dry rosé takes us from one dish to another with grace and sophistication. It’s especially useful for buffets as it pairs well with myriad dishes, making it especially useful for Easter brunches. I drink rosé all year long, so I may indulge outhern hemisphere examples while they’re still fresh as they come into the market ahead of the European and American ones. This one, from Spain, shows a lovely deep pink color. Medium-bodied, it offers aromas and flavors of pomegranate, red currant, and strawberry, with a touch of spice coming into the picture as the wine finishes. Grape type: tempranillo. A superb value, as is the entire line. Serve moderately cool, about 60ºF/15ºC, in medium-sized tulip-shaped wine glasses. Foods: exotically seasoned (but not mouth-searing hot) foods; crawfish salad; shrimp and grits with tasso ham or prosciutto; paella; barbecued chicken; chicken breast Italiano (crumbs and Parmesan cheese); Indonesian chicken or fish; grilled lamb sausages; roast pork loin; baked ham. Georgia Distributor: Prestige Wine Wholesale $8.00 2006 Galil Mountain Winery Chardonnay Galilee Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: As a result of the Yom Kippur War of 1973, Israel obtained governance of the Golan Heights in the north, abutting Syria. That’s where you’ll find altitudes sufficient to yield a cool climate and volcanic soils conducive to grape growing, and where Chardonnay does well. This medium-bodied, medium-gold dry white wine shows an oak-affected aroma that is not so strong it doesn’t admit the fruit characters, with a slight hint of butterscotch, all suggesting ripe yellow fruits, from papaya to mango, with hints of golden raisins. On the palate, fruit and oak are decently integrated, with notes of crème caramel. If you’re at all averse to obvious oak, this might be too much for you. On the other hand, if you like oak-influenced wine, you’re in business. While I’m not partial to the latter, I can still drink this one. Decant for 30 minutes or so to let the wine become more graceful. (Yes, I know it’s a white wine, but you can—and often should—decant those, too.) Serve moderately cool, about 55°F/13°C, in tulip-shaped white-wine glasses. Kosher and Kosher for Passover, but not Mevushal. Foods: Robust fish and chicken dishes with distinctive seasonings, such as saffron and cumin. Chicken gremolata (with garlic, lemon zest, and parsley), grilled chicken/apple sausage; lemon-pepper roast chicken; veal stew. Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Co. $17.00 2007 Pio Cesare Dolcetto d'Alba Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Few red grape types yield more generally useful wines than does Dolcetto, a grape type grown primarily in Italy’s Piedmont region (northwest). This supple medium-bodied dry red wine sees no oak, and minimal handling all around allows its beautiful ruby-tinged purple color to set the stage for ample blueberry and red fruit aromas. Aged in stainless steel, the wine showcases a tasty palate of juicy fruits with no oak interference. Tannins are a study in silk, and the delicious, long finish provides worthy payoff. Alcohol is moderate: 13.5%. Serve this at cool room temperatures, 65°F/17°C, in tall tulip-shaped glasses for red wine. Foods: Appetizers of aged Parmesan cheese cubes drizzled with olive oil; grilled eggplant; cured meats and salamis; meat-stuffed mushrooms; lamb lollipops. Main dishes: pasta with substantial meat sauces, such as papardelle with oxtail meat or braised beef cheek meat; or with tiny lamb meatballs and reduced lamb stock; grilled veal chop; veal scaloppini with tomato and wild mushrooms; aged firm cheeses; very dark chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Empire Distributing $35.00 2007 Schloss Saarstein Riesling Qualitätswein Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: An ideal aperitif wine, Riesling can nonetheless go from the beginning of the meal through to its conclusion. This example is an off-dry white wine that offers a delicate pale yellow color and aromas that present fine yellow fruit characters, from melon to pineapple, and just a hint of caraway. On the palate, myriad taste sensations range from peach and melon to ripe Fuji apple. Lovely acidity adds balance and prolongs the clean, crisp finish. Delicious. Potential keeper for near-term enjoyment, over say the next four or five years if well cellared. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in small tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Crab cakes, shrimp salad with creamy lemongrass dressing; green papaya salad with grilled shrimp; dim sum; anything Asian with seafood or chicken, roast turkey, parchment-cooked seafood with Asian seasonings, teriyaki. Actually, any excuse to drink this wine will do. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $14.00 Domaine Carneros Cuvee de la Pompadour Brut Rose Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: French Champagne producers have been active in California—and elsewhere (Gruet, New Mexico)—in the United States producing sparkling wine in the traditional manner since the 1970s. That’s when the Champagne Taittanger house began looking for land in California for the purpose of making an American sparkling wine. The winery was established in 1987. This lovely example of what traditional methods can do with California fruit shows aromas of wild strawberry, rose petal and a touch of the scent of honey. On the palate you’ll find crisp, clean, lively red fruit flavors. The deep red salmon color appeals to the eye, as does the generous mousse, which lasts a good while in the glass and is followed by threads of persistent small bead. Alc. 12%. Brut denotes sparkling wines of less than 15 g/l of residual sugar. Grapes: Pinot Noir (58%) and Chardonnay (42%). Serve at 50ºF/10ºC in tulip-shaped flutes. Foods: creamy seafood bisque; pasta salad with poached shrimp and a lemon-juice/mild oil dressing (scant); roast chicken; even steak; mild triple cream cheeses Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Co. $36.00 2007 Backsberg Estate Pinotage Paarl Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Jews in South Africa date to at least the 1820s, with its first congregation established in 1 841 in Cape Town. Today, a museum of Jewish culture in Cape Town chronicles their history in the country over the course of the following two centuries. The Backs arrived in the early 20th century from Lithuania as political and religious refugees, and have flourished in South Africa. Four generations later, and after shedding other agricultural-related enterprises to focus on wines, the winery produces a wide range of wines, including organic, fortified and kosher. The winery indicates both kosher and mevushal for their wines. This wine is made from South Africa’s icon red grape: Pinotage. The wine is a medium-bodied red wine showing a medium-deep red color. Aromas focus on fresh dark berries, which continue into the palate. The fresh fruit flavors are lively and clean. Tannins are soft and well integrated. A fruit-sweetness enrobes the fruit toward the end. Grape type: Pinotage, a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault. A Chardonnay ($15) also is available. Serve cool, about 60ºF/15ºC in large tulip-shaped glasses. Kosher and Mevushal, but not Kosher for Passover. Foods: Smoked liverwurst; braised lamb shank; veal or chicken scaloppini with tomato-wild mushroom sauce (very good); turkey or veal meatballs in a mushroom demi-glace; smoked brisket; roast chicken or duck; grilled or roasted eggplant; dark chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Grapefields $17.00 Lolonis Winery Ladybug White Medocino Old Vines Cuvee III Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Celebrate Greek Easter with a wine from one of America’s Greek heritage wineries, such as Lolonis, which also is dedicated to organic farming methods. The ladybug, which it uses to control pests, is its symbol. This white wine with just a notch of residual sugar blends several grape types: French Colombard; Chenin Blanc; Sémillon and Chardonnay. Tilting to floral, the delicate, aromatic aromas show citrus peel notes. Fresh, clean, apple/pear/citrus fruit informs the palate, which finishes with a pleasing crispness. It’s a good crowd pleaser for beginning a meal. Co-fermented in stainless steel, so all the fruit is kept fresh and unmuddled. This is a simple, easy quaffing wine that should appeal to a wide range of palates. Don’t let it get too cold, or you’ll kill the delicate flavors: 55-60ºF/13-15ºC. Use medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: baked fish dishes; calamari with lemon aïoli; lemon chicken; deep-fried chicken tenders with honey mustard; skordalia (garlic/potato purée) with deep-fried cod fish (very traditional); assorted savory phyllo pastries Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Co. $13.00 2007 Casa Nuestra Chenin Blanc Napa Valley Dry Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: The voluptuous fruit and aromatic character of Chenin Blanc makes this misunderstood grape a perfect aperitif and dinner wine. Originating in the Loire Valley, one of the most romantic and history-rich spots on the planet, Chenin Blanc is gifted with high natural acidity. If over-cropped or if the vine’s natural vigor isn’t controlled, the resulting wines can be very boring, a condition that has given the grape a bad rap. But when it’s good, it’s a delight, and that’s the case with this example, made from grapes grown on nearly 50-year-old vines. Full-bodied with a bright medium-gold color, this dry white wine displays intense aromas and flavors of melon and golden apple with exotic spice notes. The texture is voluptuous, creamy and silky. Good acidity refreshes the -palate, and makes the wine not only good with food but likely to endure. The winery’s estimate of 20 years is not without the realm of possibility, as good Chenin Blanc from the Loire will cellar well. Vinfied 30% briefly (5 months) in French oak; 70% in stainless steel. Serve cool, about 55ºF/13ºC, in tulip-shaped white-wine glasses; over-chilling will dim these lovely aromas and flavors. Foods: Dishes with aromatic Asian seasoning; tandoori chicken or chicken with gremolata (minced garlic, lemon zest and parsley); Caesar or chopped salad; composed salads with poultry or seafood and fruit; sauced poultry or seafood dishes; pastas with creamy sauces. Georgia Distributor: From the winery; Georgia license #327 $24.00 2006 Beckett's Flat Five Stones Shiraz Margaret River Review Date - 3/1/2009 Score - 89 Tasting Note: This outfit puts out some of the finest Kosher wine I’ve ever tasted, but beyond that, the wines are absolutely excellent wines, and not only are they Kosher and Kosher for Passover, they’re Mevushal. I used the Chardonnay in a class on Kosher wines last year, and it was the group favorite (92 pts.; $25). Mine, too, and, as readers know, I’m not a Chardonnay-a-holic. This medium-bodied Shiraz does show its American oak at the outset, but it’s fairly subtle. The aromas launch with good fruit and a touch of vanilla, but then a bit of toastiness emerges. Plum, dark cherry and oak inform the palate. Tannins are round and silky, and the long finish is fruit-focused. The wine ages in a combination of French and American oak, although in my view it would benefit by ditching the latter. Overall, though, this is one of the best Kosher red wines I’ve ever tasted. Serve in tall, tulip-shaped glasses at about 65ºF/17ºC. Foods: chicken liver pâté with black peppercorns; black olives; exotically spiced braised chicken or lamb; roast, braised or barbecued beef short ribs; turkey or veal meatballs with mushrooms; braised lamb shank or roast lamb; roast duck; barbecue seasoning-rubbed steak; dishes with mushrooms; rich, aged cheeses. Georgia Distributor: La Fayette Selections $25.00 2006 Tagaris Winery Mourvèdre Columbia Valley Alice Vineyard Review Date - 2/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Washington State’s red wines are hardly wussy; there’s plenty of tannin and structure, with ample, delicious fruit, and good acidity. But they’re also not so big and bold that they overwhelm food. Winemaker Frank Roth’s approach to Mourvédre presents a full-bodied red wine with a deep dark red color. Aromas and flavors lean toward dark fruits with a slight whiff of black pepper among the spices. The tannins are soft thanks to some of Roth’s methodology. There is a very slight burst of acid at the end, suggesting acid adjustment. Native yeasts and used oak mean the fruit is highlighted. This one still tastes lovely several days after being opened, boding well for some cellaring. Serve at cool room temperatures, 60-65ºF/15-17ºC. Foods: Well-seasoned braised meats; truffle (or mushroom) risotto (this was awesome!); mushroom-stuffed ravioli or mushroom lasagna; barbecue or any smoked meats; roast chicken with black-bean salsa; pole poblano, dark chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Sommelier Direct $30.00 2007 Borsao Rosado Review Date - 2/1/2009 Score - 86 Tasting Note: Spain virtually resonates with romance, and the color pink suggests love all around. Combine the two in this medium-bodied dry rosé from Spain, made entirely of Garnacha (Grenache), which originated in Spain. The lovely pink color, the aromas of red fruits and roses, the delicious fruit character on the palate, a hint of spice, and a long, dry finish make a serious wine. (Sorry wine geeks, but I think rosés are serious wines when well made.) Serve moderately chilled, not icy cold, about 50ºF/10ºC, in tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: pickled shrimp with some tomato (see the recipe in “From Black Tie to Blackeyed Peas,” from Savannah, but ditch the mushrooms), grilled wild salmon; legume-based salads with cherry tomatoes; pork barbecue with creamy tomato-based barbecue sauce; pasta with sun-dried tomatoes; grilled red snapper; wings; barbecued chicken; grilled ham steak. Georgia Distributor: Prestige Wine Wholesale $10.00 2007 Justin Vineyard Obtuse Paso Robles Review Date - 2/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: What is Valentine’s Day without chocolate? Classically, wine authorities advised against serving wine with chocolate, but we say “Not so fast!” Red wines and chocolate can be—depending what kind of chocolate and on the wine’s tannins—delightful combinations. This fortified Cabernet Sauvignon is an ideal wine for the darkest possible chocolate. With its inky dark ruby color, this full-bodied sweet red wine exudes enticing red fruit and dark chocolate aromas, with a palate pay-off of rich red and dark fruits that get added complexity from decided chocolate notes. The wine is high in alcohol, so it should be served at cool room temperature in small tulip-shaped glasses. This wine can be cellared, but as it’s unfined and unfiltered, it should be decanted before being served at that point. After being opened, if kept corked and cool, the wine should last up to six months, but will evolve and become tawny-like toward the end of that period. So the type of chocolate you choose depends on where the wine is in its evolution. When the bottle is first opened, go with wicked dark chocolate, whether cake, truffles, or dark chocolate ganache-filled chocolates. Creamy blue cheeses should do well, too. As the wine becomes more tawny-like, go with milk chocolate, including caramel-filled, nut-filled, or milk chocolate ganache-filled chocolates. For cheeses, go with a nutty, firm aged cheese, such as Parano, cave-aged Gruyère or well-aged Spanish Manchego. Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Co. $25.00 Domaine Chandon Brut Rose California Review Date - 2/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: In 1973, Moët et Chandon bought land in California and launched its American brand, Domaine Chandon, and released its first sparkling wine in 1976. The exuberant California style is reflected in this medium-bodied brut rosé sparkling wine. The color captures a delicate pale pink, and the wine pours with a nice, dense mousse. Aromas reveal toasty brioche and intense red fruits including watermelon and strawberry. On the palate, the vibrant fruit continues and offers a suggestion of candied apple in mid-palate. The slightest hint of the taste (not the sweetness) of honey comes in at the end. Serve chilled, about 45ºF/7ºC, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: exuberantly flavored seafood, chicken, pork, especially dishes reflecting Asian, Latin American, Spanish, Creole, Cajun or other robustly seasoned dishes: Creole barbequed shrimp; crawfish or crab cakes; pickled shrimp Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Co. $20.00 2005 Selbach-Oster Liebfraumilch Qualitätswein Rhinehessen Review Date - 2/1/2009 Score - 86 Tasting Note: Wine snobs look down on Liebfraumilch, originally Libfrauenmilch, and indeed the famous ones are some of the least interesting. The word means something like “beloved lady’s milk,” perhaps because the wine originally comes from the vineyards owned by the Liebfrauenkirche, a church in Worms, and goes back to the Renaissance. The grapes are typically a blend of four: Müller-Thurgau, Sylvaner, Kerner and Riesling of QbA quality from the Rheinhessen and the Pfalz. Residual sugar is at least 1.8%, and alcohol is typically low. This example is 10%. Quality varies widely from frankly boring to delightful, if never complicated. I’ve tasted this one twice, and was very surprised at how delightful it was. Aromas and flavors key on white melon and white peach. The sweetness is tempered by acidity, and the finish is clean if not especially long. It’s a fine value, and perfect for young romance on a budget. Serve moderately cool, about 50ºF/10ºC. Foods: Bring home anything Chinese; Thai lemongrass shrimp salad (VERY nice); mild curried chicken salad; shrimp on sugar cane; grilled pancetta-wrapped scallops with mustard mayonnaise; quiche; red chili sauced pork tenderloin; pork steak or beer-poached fish with mustard cream sauce; tandoori chicken. Georgia Distributor: Northeast Wholesale $8.00 Ruinart Brut Rose Champagne Review Date - 2/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: You know how to tell a real Champagne enthusiast from a poseur? The real one loves brut rosé. And a real one would love this medium-bodied brut rosé, a most elegant wine with a deep pink color, ample mousse and a fresh, zesty aroma of red fruits, especially strawberry. On the palate the sensation is simultaneously elegant and clean, with good red fruit character and a suggestion of aromatic brown spices. Grapes: Pinot Noir 55%; Chardonnay 45% from Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. Serve chilled, about 45ºF/7ºC. Ruinart is the oldest Champagne house, having been founded in 1729. Among its first U.S. customers was none other than Old Hickory himself, President Andrew Jackson. Foods: chilled poached salmon topped with beluga caviar; crab cakes with not-too-spicy Louisiana-style Rémoulade sauce or crab- or crawfish-filled crêpes; spicy (but not hot) pickled shrimp with some tomato; lobster; filet of veal, tart of red fruits (not too sweet). Georgia Distributor: Empire Distributing $70.00 2003 Caledonia Australis Pinot Noir Gippsland Review Date - 2/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Pinot Noir is the feminine red, making it an ideal pick for Valentine’s Day dining. This example comes from Gippsland in southeastern Victoria (east of Melbourne), a zone that’s gathering reputation for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. A medium-bodied dry red wine; the wine shows a bright cherry red color with a slight pink rim. The aromas detail dried herb characters, with a graham note that emerges as the wine opens. The palate adds a dried red cherry character to the herbal foundation. Tannins are resolved, and fruit and oak are completely integrated. The lingering finish hangs onto the fruit. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65ºF/17ºC. Great value, IF you like savory-style Pinot Noir (as opposed to cherry-bomb California Pinot Noir), and a likely good keeper for a few more years. Foods: duck terrine with pistachios and orange liqueur; creamy liver mousse; mushroom-stuffed ravioli with olive oil and fresh minced herbs; grilled pork chop; roast pork loin, chicken; duck or Cornish hen brushed with dark fruit jam; grilled tuna; roast turkey with an herb crust; legume dishes with ham or other smoked meat; eggplant with pine nut crust; creamy (even moderately ripe ones) cheeses. Dark chocolate ok, but American Pinot Noir does better. Georgia Distributor: Continental Beverage $21.00 2008 Azienda Agricola Saracco Moscato d’Asti Piemonte Review Date - 2/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: For your sweetheart, something a little sweet to conclude the meal, although one might also make an aperitif out of a sparkling Moscato. The genre typically comes of just sweet, with little complexity or interest. Not this one. Light-bodied, pale yellow in color, and slightly spritzy, this example exudes the perfume of fresh yellow fruits and summer flowers. On the palate, sweet fruits are refreshing, not cloying, with a delightful pink grapefruit note. The flavors never dull out, thanks to nice acidity, but instead continue to tingle and refresh the palate. The genre also offers relatively low alcohol, 5.5% in this case, a definite plus. These are not wines to be kept, although a year or two after vintage is usually fine. Serve this one moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: as an aperitif with Asian-style appetizers, such as shumai; crab cakes; chicken salad with yellow fruits; fruit salad; for dessert, creamy mild cheeses (e.g., mascarpone); custards; fruit-based desserts, such as a fruit tart; cheesecake; mel i mato (make it with drained whole-milk ricotta, honey and toasted walnuts crushed over all) Georgia Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $15.00 2005 Denis Race Chablis 1er cru Mont de milieu Review Date - 2/1/2009 Score - 92 Tasting Note: The romance of France comes to mind for Valentine’s Day, and nothing says it better than a good Chablis. Chablis—the real deal—is grown in northern Burgundy, chiefly from the Chardonnay grape. The resulting wines could not be more different from their California counterparts. First, the soils in Chablis contain lots of limestone, much of it derived from fossilized seashells, and that contributes Chablis’ minerality. Second, typically the wines are done in either neutral oak or stainless steel, so you don’t get “big, buttery, oaky” (yucky) Chardonnay. Drink a Chablis, and see what Chardonnay is supposed to taste like. This example is a full-bodied dry white wine with a medium yellow color. Its aromas hint of anise, a character that becomes even stronger as the wine opens, while on the palate well-developed fruit repeats the spice. Good acidity—another marker for Chablis—keeps the finish running long and clean. Elegant; sublime. Good Chablis is a keeper; I’ve drunk them nearly as old as I am, and they were lovely. Decant (no joke) and don’t over-chill, or the flavors will get lost in the cold; 55-60ºF/13-15ºC should get it, and use medium-sized tulip-shaped white-wine glasses. Foods: Raw briny, salty, cold-water oysters; grilled scallops; sautéed fresh cod with tartar sauce; poached seafood sausages with beurre blanc; seafood terrine; mild fish (flounder, cod) with creamy sauces; quenelles (poached mild fish dumplings) with a cream sauce. King crab legs; crab cakes, creamy goat cheese (Chèvre). Georgia Distributor: Peach State Wine & Spirits $30.00 2007 Cantina di Casteggio Barbera Oltrepò Pavese Review Date - 2/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Another spot for romance, Italy extends a siren song to all lovers to come to Italy. There, in these hills along the Po River (Oltrepò means “beyond the Po”) in northern Italy just south of Milan but still in Lombardy, you’ll find the vineyards that produce this Barbera. This medium-bodied dry red wine shows lovely extraction, with a deep, violet-edged ruby color. Done in stainless steel, the wine shows lovely fresh dark fruits, Ripe tannins lend structure, and the acidity is mouthwatering and palate-cleansing. The long fruit-filled finish is most appealing. Lovely value, too. The best serving temperature for this wine is 60ºF/15ºC, to be enjoyed in a medium tulip-shaped glass. This wine is produced by a huge cooperative of some 350 members, but the quality of this good-value red is indisputable. Foods: mildly seasoned salamis and sausages; both cured and fresh; ham steak or baked ham; braised meats; roast chicken; legume dishes, eggplant with tomato; dishes with sun-dried tomatoes; mild firm cheeses (Caccio di Roma—yum!); medium dark chocolate, about 55%, with toffee or nuts. Georgia Distributor: Liquid Brands $10.00 2005 Campos Góticos Tempranillo Ribera del Duero Review Date - 2/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Who doesn’t think of Spain without thinking of Romance? A full-bodied, deeply colored red wine is just the ticket for alluding to the romance of Spain, with its varied landscape, myriad sub-cultures and concomitant fabulously varied cuisine. This deeply dark colored dry red wine comes from one of the wine regions where red wines rule: Ribera del Duero, just north of Madrid, where the famous ruined castle of Peñafiel and the wines of Vega Sicilia are iconic. Full-bodied, the wine presents aromas of dark fruits—plums especially—while fresh dark fruits fill the palate. Six months in oak have left the fresh fruit unencumbered by extraneous flavors. Mouth-filling and easy to enjoy, the wine offers lovely fruit-derived tannins. Producer is 100% biodynamic. Grape type: Tempranillo. Serve cool, 65ºF/17ºC, in generous tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: meat terrines or meat pies; cured sausages and salami; chorizo; fabada (a legume-based dish with ham and sausage); roast game; lamb; stews both with meaet and legume-based vegetarian dishes; sausage lasagna; salad with faro, feta cheese, tomato and olive oil; black olives and dishes containing them; grilled pork chop or roast pork loin; aged Manchego cheese. Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $19.00 2007 R Wines Shiraz Luchador South Australia Review Date - 2/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: “Luchador” means “fighter” in Spanish, and while we don’t want to start anything untoward for Valentine’s Day, we would recommend this wine as a fine way to launch the evening. While many Shiraz-based wines from South Australia can come across a little brutal, this one has smoothness going for it all the way. Full-bodied, it presents a deep, opaque ruby red color, and lovely aromas of black fruits, especially blackberries, and just a hint of pie spice, as if you had a cobbler in the oven. Think ripe, ripe, ripe. The palate displays a sweet black fruit character, soft tannins, and lingering fruit. The finish is long, and although it gets a little heat going (alc. is 14.5%) at the end, doesn’t crowd out the fruit. Each bottle bears the masked image of one of four different characters, a bit unfriendly looking, but if you decant it, your intended won’t see it, and that’s not a bad idea anyway. Best served cool, about 60ºF/15ºC, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Smoked meats; terrines; meat pies; braised beef, steak or prime rib; mole poblano; root vegetable stew with country ham; Stilton cheese; very dark chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $21.00 2006 Rocland Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley Kilroy was Here! Review Date - 1/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: So who was Kilroy? Answer that, and you’ll be well-rewarded with this Cabernet Sauvignon from Rocland Estate. Fleshy and full-bodied, this wine shows a deep, opaque well-extracted purple color. Aromas and flavors focus on all the Cabernet Sauvignon characters, including blackberry, cassis (black currant), and blueberry. French and American oak were used, but none of American oak’s typical aggressiveness is here, and the oak is beautifully integrated with the fruit. Tannins are supple and derived from fruit (rather than stems or barrels). Sweet fruit is intense but not over-the-top, and although alcohol is hefty (14.5%), the wine shows good balance. Serve cool to the touch in Bordeaux style glasses (tall tulip-shaped). Lots of foods go with this one: roast Cornish hen glazed with dark jam and some of the wine; prime rib; grilled or smoked meats; legume dishes with assertive flavors; bleu cheeses; dark chocolate. Suggested Food Pairings: Atlanta Distributor: Distributor: Big Boat Wine Co. $24.00 2006 Rocland Estate Shiraz Barossa Valley Lot 147 Review Date - 1/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Warm Barossa Valley lies just a short distance—about 35 miles--north of Adelaide. The name, meaning “red earth,” was given the region in 1837 by Col. William Light, an English officer who had fought in the Battle of Barrosa (sic) in 1811, near Cádiz, Spain. Evidently seeing some similarities between the two lands, he was inspired to borrow the word to name the area. While other grapes are grown in the valley, the region is chiefly known for Shiraz. Hot days at the end of the growing season produce intense, rich flavors. This Shiraz shows that very character. Alcohol is high (15%), but the wine doesn’t read hot. Full-bodied, with a deep, dark purple red color, this Shiraz offers intense aromas of fresh and dried dark fruits. On the palate, equally intense dark fruits are big and somewhat jammy, but still balanced and not port-like. They provide great cover for intensely flavored dishes. Decant for several hours; two days after being opened, it still tasted great. Serve it cool, about 65ºF/17ºC, in tall tulip-shaped glasses with apricot-curry glazed grilled pork or chicken (singularly yummy), barbecue with a sauce that’s not sweet, legume dishes with tomato and lots of garlic, Indian lamb dishes that are spicy and aromatic but not too hot, grilled vegetables with olive oil. Dark chocolate is ok. Atlanta Distributor: Big Boat Wine Co. $34.00 2008 R Wines Permutations Pinot Noir Victoria Review Date - 1/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Reminding one how Pinot Noir is the feminine red wine grape, this juicy, aromatic Pinot Noir presents a savory approach to the classic red cherry characters many people enjoy in the grape. Typical of good Pinot Noir, the wine shows a translucent dark cherry color. Clean, pure fruit aromas tag team with a hint of dried herb as one might expect from a Pinot Noir out of Victoria. On the palate, sweet fruit leads the herbal notes to a moderately long, mostly pleasing finish that shows just a bit of acid overreach in the end. Moderate alcohol (13.5%). A good value for both Pinot Noir lovers and anyone looking for a reasonably priced introduction to the genre. Serve cool, about 65ºF/17ºC, with delicate foods. Best choices are a chicken liver mousse or mousse of foie gras, roast chicken or mild game birds (Cornish hen, quail), pizza or flat bread with prosciutto, figs and mild cheese; roast pork or lamb tenderloin, grilled salmon. Note: There are 24 different labels for this wine, but the key word to look for is “Permutations,” common to all of them. Atlanta Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits 2006 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz-Viognier Western Victoria Review Date - 1/1/2009 Score - 94 Tasting Note: It’s classic to blend into Shiraz (or Syrah) some Viognier to lift the aromas and give the wine balance, so that’s it’s not so “thick” as it might otherwise be and much friendly with food. This collaboration between one of France’s (the Rhône Valley) most admired producers and one of Napa Valley’s most regarded wine authorities. The aromas suggest a hint of animal fur (classic in Shiraz/Syrah) along with fresh dark fruits, on the palate, delicious dark fruits, some black fig, and pleasing fruit-derived tannins craft a superb food wine experience. The finish just goes on and on. There’s nothing “motor oil” like about this wine; it’s elegant, balanced and delicious, with a definite French hand in the making. Done in stainless steel. Yeah! Enjoy this (big time!) at cool room temperature, about 65ºF/17ºC, in tall tulip-shaped red-wine glasses. Decant a couple of hours ahead of serving. Foods to pair with it include anything smoked, smoked liverwurst; roast pork loin; pork belly braised in pork stock and herbs; hefty pasta dishes with juicy meat sauces; game; roast duck, lamb; creamy, rich, well-flavored cheeses. Atlanta Distributor: Empire Distributing $22.00 2006 Tir na N’Og Grenache McLaren Vale Review Date - 1/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Not a bunch of Aussie motor oil, nor “too thick,” this rich, abundant Old Vines Grenache supplies plenty of fruit and power but with the added benefit of balance, so that it can take up the cause of well-seasoned foods. Celtic for “Land of the Eternally Young,” “Tir na N’Og is a full-bodied Old Vines Grenache that shows abundant dark fruits on the aromas, followed by firm-tannin-framed rich dark fruits. A burst of spice and dark fruits shapes the lingering finish. Make sure not to serve this too warm, as the alcohol is substantial, but doesn’t show if the tasting temperature is cool, about 65ºF/15ºC. Serve in tall tulip-shaped large red wine glasses with these foods: Smoked meats; rich stews and braised meats; roasted vegetables with garlic and olive oil; well-seasoned legume dishes with tomato and garlic; grilled or braised veal steak with mushrooms and veal jus; grilled or stewed lamb; roasted Cornish hen brushed with melted dark fruit jam and some of the wine; roast duck; grilled ham steak or roast ham. Atlanta Distributor: Northeast Wholesale $25.00 2006 Tscharke Only Son Tempranillo Graciano Barossa Valley Review Date - 1/1/2009 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Damien Tscharke, having just notched his 30th birthday, is taking Australian wines in a new direction, planting many Spanish varietals and even Zinfandel (although Kangarilla Road in McLaren Vale and Nepenthe also produce good Zinfandel). He also plants Montepulciano. But the Spanish varieties (which include Albariño) are very unusual in Australia, and this one is highly allocated and hard to find. But I thought it was worth telling you about anyway. Deeply colored with an opaque black-purple hue, this full-bodied dry red wine blends Tempranillo and Graciano. The alcohol is high (15.5%), yet the balance is there. Bold dark fruit flavors with plenty of extraction, plum and blackberry fruit, are framed by fruit-sourced tannins and lead to a long fruit-filled conclusion.You’ll never take it for a Spanish wine, however, as the approach is entirely what one would expect of Barossa. Bold wines require boldly flavored foods, and I would love to sample this one with a good fabada (bean, blood sausage and ham stew from Asturias, Spain). Failing that, it stood up well to legumes with tomato and garlic, black-eyed peas with ham, mildly seasoned Indian dishes with lamb (or goat), smoked meats, lamb sausage, pasta dishes with substantial meat sauces, meat pies, stews, mild bleu and firm aged cheeses, and, as one might expect, was smashing with dark chocolate. Serving temperature should be cool to the touch. Atlanta Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $24.00 2008 Fonty's Pool Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Pemberton Review Date - 1/1/2009 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Pemberton, located in Western Australia, is another of the country’s up-and-coming cool-climate zones situated about 200 miles south of Perth. Fruit expressiveness, consequently, is intense and pure. In this wine, a medium-bodied dry white wine with a pale greenish yellow color, aromas of tropical fruit—star fruit or carambola—announce the presence of Sauvignon Blanc, which constitutes 50% of the blend along with Semillon (45%) and Chardonnay (5%). Fresh cut herbs, lime and lemon make a refreshing palate impression, while good acidity keeps the flavors crisp and lively through the long finish. Gentle alcohol, 12%. A portioni of each grape type spent some time in oak, but the fruit comes booming through. This is not a keeper wine, but one to be enjoyed young at cool temperatures, about 55ºF/13ºF. Serve with seafood: crab cakes, poached, chilled scallops; shrimp salad or steamed mussels with lemon grass, baked mild fish with cream and fresh herbs; also cocktail potatoes stuffed with cream cheese and fresh herbs; goat cheese. Atlanta Distributor: Continental Beverage $13.00 2007 Printhie Wines Chardonnay Orange Review Date - 1/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Some wine enthusiasts—and retailers—think of Australia as entirely warm climate. That’s quite off the mark. Orange, which is a high-altitude zone that lies between Cowra and Mudgee in New South Wales north of Sydney, is known for its Sauvignon Blanc, but also produces aromatic, exuberant Chardonnay, such as the Printhie example. This full-bodied dry white wine shows lovely stone fruit aromas—peach/apricot—with a well-developed mid-palate and crisp, acid-rich long finish. The use of French oak is subtle, just broadening the mid-palate without overwhelming the fruit. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC in small tulip-shaped glasses. Richly seasoned foods that pair well with this wine include apple/bread-stuffed chicken or pork loin; grilled chicken/apple sausage; baked chicken with gremolata (minced lemon zest, garlic and parsley); mild curries with chicken or pork; Chinese food. Atlanta Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $14.00 2008 The Gatekeeper Chardonnay Barossa Valley Review Date - 1/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: One tends to think of Barossa as being a total warm climate zones. But here and there it has spots of cool. This unoaked Chardonnay, which requires a cooler climate, comes from a variety of older vine Barossa Valley sites, and keeping it in stainless steel guards against loss of fruit characters. This medium-bodied white wine shows a medium yellow color. Chardonnay fans will love the clean Asian pear apple and white melon aromas flavors made complex with citrus notes. Although my bet is that the wine has been acid adjusted, the acidity seems well integrated. Fresh, clean, zingy and pure in fruit characters, this wine offers an appeal that might snare even the Chardonnay averse. Serve cool, about 55ºF/13ºC, in tulip-shaped white-wine glasses. For food pairings, consider chicken with fruit, such as mango, Asian pear-apple or pear (chicken breast with a whiskey-cream sauce and sautéed pear slices, for instance); mild (not hot) curries; paella with saffron rather than the alternative paprika (pimentón); mildly flavored creamy cheeses. Atlanta Distributor: Unique World Wines $14.00 2007 Frankland Riesling Frankland River Isolation Ridge Vineyard Review Date - 1/1/2009 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Sitting at some 924 feet above sea level, the Isolation Ridge Vineyard was planted in 1988, a maturing vineyard. About 216 miles south of Perth, the viticultural region formed around the long Frankland River began in 1969 as a fine grape producer, and today is one of Australia’s rising stars. Its cool climate yields elegantly styled Shiraz as well as good Riesling. Aromas on this example show the classic petrol characters often found in Rieslings over time. Medium-bodied, this is a dry white wine with a pale straw color. The delicious classic Riesling flavors nip at a wide variety of fruit characters, suggesting green apple, mango, lime peel and white apricot, and conclude in a long, dry finish. Gifted with outstanding complexity, this is one yummy Riesling. Savor it slightly cooled, about 55ºF/13ºC, in tall tulip-shaped glasses with any kind of smoked foods, especially smoked salmon wrapped around herbed cream cheese, smoked white fish, smoked liver pâté, smoked pork chops, cured salmon with mustard/dill sauce; fish baked in beer and served with a mustard white sauce; pork steaks with mustard cream sauce; apple-stuffed pork loin, veal or chicken in cream sauce, creamy cheeses. Atlanta Distributor: Northeast Wholesale $23.00 2006 Massoni Sauvignon Blanc Mornington Peninsula Review Date - 1/1/2009 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Despite being an older vintage, 2006 is current release for export, and it’s worth having. That’s why cool climates and dry growing seasons (such as the 2006 in Victoria) make great wines. Keeper wines, too. This one is still fresh and vibrant, and shows a very pale—surprisingly so—straw color. While it may have been more intense upon first release, it sure isn’t shy at the moment, showing lovely aromas of passion fruit and gooseberry that follow through into the palate. The crisp, clean, pure fruit finish is a big draw, as is the lingering true-to-type finish. Very tasty work. This one really doesn’t like to be overchilled, so hold the ice and just get it to cool room temperature, about 60ºF/15ºC, in tulip-shaped white-wine glasses. Exotically flavored seafoods are lovely with this: shrimp-and-pork shumai (Chinese dumplings) with Ponzu dipping sauce; baked oysters with herb butter (Rockefeller too, probably); fried catfish and tartar sauce; mild fish baked with butter and herbs (Spanish salsa verde); bacalà salad with artichokes (probably also bacalà fritters and other salted cod dishes); grilled scallops or halibut with mustard cream sauce; steamed mussels or shrimp with creamy lemongrass sauce; mild creamy cheeses (herbed is nice). Atlanta Distributor: Continental Beverage $13.00 2008 First Drop The Red One Review Date - 1/1/2009 Score - 88 Tasting Note: South Australia is experimenting with Italian varieties, including Barbera and Sangiovese, and some of it will turn up in blends. In this example, blending Shiraz (55%); Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) and Barbera (5%) from a variety of vineyard sites crafts a well-made easy-drinking wine that benefits from being slightly cooled, say to about 60ºF/15ºC. Medium-bodied with a deep violet purple hue, this dry red wine (it’s got just .27 RS) shows ripe plumy fruit aromas and flavors. Soft tannins and generous fruit make it an good red for anyone transitioning into more serious wines. And for the serious red wine drinker, it’s a wine that will go with lots of foods. We tasted it at D’Vine Wine Bar in Dunwoody with lamb chop lollipops, but it would also do well with barbecue, smoked meats, mild cheeses, and perhaps even dark chocolate. Atlanta Distributor: Unique World Wines 2004 Olssens Pinot Noir Central Otago Jackson Barry Review Date - 12/1/2008 Score - 95 Tasting Note: Pinot Noir maniacs tend to fall into two groups: Those who like the forward red/black cherry fruit dominant Pinot Noir and those who prefer a more Burgundian style, more savory, with some mushroom cellar character, some forest floor. I confess to being a partisan of the latter camp. That stated, my fondness for this wine is understandable. In fact, I generally find to my liking Pinot Noir from not only Central Otago, but also Nelson and Martinborough (NZ) and Yarra Valley (AU). Why? They go with more foods. They’re more interesting on their own than the cherry-dominant sort. Nothing’s wrong with the other style; it’s strictly a matter of taste. This medium-bodied dry red wine introduces its singular character in aromas laden with dark fruits and fresh crushed herb, plus a mushroom note. Beautifully balanced, the palate integrates spicy oak, dark fruits and supple tannins. Extraordinary stuff in my view; but remember what my view is!!! Foods: liver pâtés; calves liver and onions; smoked pork chop; roast pork loin or tenderloin; grilled salmon; roast chicken, duck, turkey or Cornish hen; lamb. Georgia Distributor: Grapefields $34.00 2004 Fort Ross Pinotage Sonoma Coast Review Date - 12/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Pinotage is a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault accomplished in South Africa little more than 100 years ago. Now Pinotage is gaining ground elsewhere. At least three producers in California come to mind: Vino Con Brío (Lodi); Saint Gregory (Mendocino), and Fort Ross (Sonoma Coast). The noxious “band-aide” characters often associated with the grape are not inevitable, however, and modern South African winemakers work to minimize these characters, notably with long, cool fermentation. The judicious use of oak helps, too. This medium-bodied example from grapes grown at high altitudes shows a lovely opaque deep purple red color. Underlying its aromas and flavors is a fine blend of red fruits, such as red currant, sour cherry and elderberry. Its silky texture, supple tannins, well-integrated oak (French, mostly used), and long, fruit-filled finish are quite satisfying. Unfined and unfiltered, this one’s scarce as only 175 cases were made. Foods: This one loves to be paired with spice, such as gamy meats (especially lamb, duck) brushed with a spicy (but not wicked hot) dark fruit-based glaze, or even chicken wings with a mild Jamaican finish, smoked meats; mild, creamy, slightly aged brie, dark chocolate. I’d take a chance on it with a mild lamb or goat curry. And why not biltong and bobotie? Georgia Distributor: Avant Partir $29.00 2003 Lagrezette Malbec Cahors Zette Review Date - 12/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Now associated by many consumers with Argentina, Malbec, originally a Bordeaux grape, is one of the major grapes of Cahors, which lies east of Bordeaux in some of France’s prettiest landscape. This Malbec is from that zone. A medium- full-bodied red wine with inky deep color, “Zette” is exclusively produced for the American market, and indeed could be taken for a so-called “New World” wine. Its upfront lush fruit showcases very ripe dark fruit characters—blackberry and black plum. Ripe, soft tannins frame a well-integrated fruit-oak profile. Fermentation is in steel tank; then the wine ages for 12 months in French oak. This is not designed for long-term cellaring, as are most Cahors wines. Nice value. The domaine dates at least to the turn of the 16th century. Foods: grilled beef or lamb steak, veal chop, roast duck, game (feathered and furred), dark chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Grapefields $15.00 1973 Vina Valoria Gran Reserva Rioja Alta Review Date - 12/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Are there wines that in the middle of this economic meltdown still warrant brushing off one’s savings to spare extra dollars for a real winner? Absolutely. Older Riojas that have been properly cellared can return so much pleasure that when one has the opportunity to snag one this good, one should jump at it. The grape are Tempranillo (80%), Graciano (10%) and Mazuelo (10%), all traditional Riojano grapes. Medium-bodied, the wine shows a bright cherry color that still exudes youth, and the aromas belie the wine;s age, with fresh, ripe dark and red fruits showing throughout. On the palate, well-resolved tannins embrace the fruit, leaving a beautifully integrated sensation. Foods: Let the wine showcase here, and keep foods simple, focusing on leg of lamb, prime rib, duck, game (both feathered and furred), and roast pork. Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $95.00 2004 Yangarra Estate Cadenzia McLaren Vale Review Date - 12/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: GSM—that’s how Australia describes wines that blend the Rhône varieties Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Vinified mostly in French oak, this full-bodied dry red wine shows a medium-deep dark cherry red color. On the nose, there’s an initial scent of candied apple, but it evolves into vanilla, followed by spice and fresh dark fruits, especially plums. The alcohol is high (15%), so the finish is a little warm, but the generous fruit goes far to balancing it out. There’s a slight note of caramel on the nose and in the finish, indicating some use of American oak. But all is in balance. Serve cool, about 60ºF/15ºC, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: aspic-covered liver pâté; roast turkey; grilled lamb shoulder steak; grilled hangar steak; shepherd’s pie or pot pie made with ground beef; picadillo; mild, aged cheeses; dark chocolate, which should bode well for mole poblano. Georgia Distributor: United Distributing $24.00 2004 Ribera Del Duero Urban Oak Review Date - 12/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Full-bodied red wines don’t have to be jawbreakers. They can conserve elegance, finesse and be champions of food. Full-bodied Spanish red wines are especially gifted at this balance of weight and finesse, as this wine exemplifies. Its deep, dark, opaque purple red color portends a substantial palate, and this is no exception. There’s a fair sensation of heat from at least mid-palate forward, but the fruit is substantial and overcomes the alcohol. Aromas begin with plums, some fresh fig and rich dark fruits, suggestions of spicy, fleshy dark fruits, not unlike baked pastry would. Fresh dark fruits inform the palate with a generosity and richness that enables serious enjoyment. Plenty of oak, but it’s so well integrated, I can’t complain. Tannins are firm but far from aggressive. Grape type: Tempranillo, or, as it’s called in Ribera del Duero, tinta del país. Great value. Foods: Prime rib; grilled steak or lamb; roast pork loin; roast chicken, duck or Cornish hen; smoked meats; furred and feathered game; sautéed mushrooms, firm, aged cheeses. Georgia Distributor: Prestige Wine Wholesale $15.00 2005 Hauck Cellars Sonoma Cuvee Review Date - 12/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: You wouldn’t bake a cake or make any dish with a single ingredient, so why be held to that standard when it comes to “cooking up” a wine? Here we have a blend that leads with Petite Sirah, one of the early Cal-Ital winemakers’ favorites (they called it “Pets.”) After the Petite Sirah (48%) come Syrah (28%), Cabernet Franc (18%) and Zinfandel (6%). This medium- full-bodied red wine shows a deep, nearly opaque dark cherry red color. I love these aromas, which broadcast spice, black plum and black cherry. On the palate, these same characters pick up some cola notes in mid palate, and chocolate/cocoa notes in the finish. High alcohol, 15%, but the heat factor is well controlled. The finish is long and engaging. Proprietors are Greg and Jennifer Houck, Atlantans. So the only way you can get this wine is either at the winery or here. Nice work; good value. Foods: Smoked meats; lavish meat pies, dark meat turkey; rabbit or duck with prunes; broad pasta (pappardelle) with game, oxtail meat or lapin; prime rib; leg of lamb; grilled red meats; aged, firm, rich cheeses; dark chocolate (and therefore probably mole poblano). Georgia Distributor: Metro Premium Wines $26.00 2005 Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape Review Date - 12/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Deriving its name from the “new” papal palace in Avignon (1309-1377), Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the southern Rhône, is heir to the papacy’s fostering of viticulture in the area. The appellation produces full-bodied red wines from a blend of 13 permitted grape types, but Grenache leads the pack. The reds are long-lived wines, enduring typically a pair of decades if well cellared. Although known for their longevity, these reds also are delicious in their youth. That’s the case with this one, which comes from a property that goes back to the 16th century. Château La Nerthe’s 225 organically farmed acres are planted to vines that average 40 years. From the spectacular 2005 vintage, this wine shows a deep purple red color. Its aromas display spice, dark fruits—ranging from blueberry to black plum—and a slight hint of sweet tobacco. On the palate, supple tannins support a rich avalanche of dark fruits and spice. The superb balance and integration of fruit and other elements make this enjoyable in its youth, even as it promises pleasure in the future. Besides Grenache, other grapes include Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and others. Foods: Avoid strong spice or hot seasonings. Liver pâtés and rougher-textured terrines; gamy meats, rather than beef, such as lamb, dark meat turkey, smoked pork, game; root vegetable stews seasoned with country ham or pancetta; mild, but rich, firm, aged cheeses (splendid with cave-aged Gruyère). Georgia Distributor: Empire Distributing $50.00 2004 Edmeades Estate Zinfandel Mendocino Alden Ranch Vineyards Late Harvest Review Date - 12/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Zinfandel is popular as a dry table wine, but it also can make exquisite dessert wines, or late harvest wines. Not fortified, late harvest wines are made from grapes picked, as the term indicates, late in the growing season when the grapes will yield high brix (sugar content measured at harvest), and thus are naturally high in alcohol. This example exceeds the 16% mark. While high in alcohol, the wine does not read “hot.” Aromas focus on spice, dried dark fruits and black cherries, while the palate enjoys raisins, plums and dark berry fruits. Spice notes (cinnamon, clove), resolved tannins, and a lingering pleasure-filled finish complete the experience. This medium-bodied dessert wine is just delicious. Serve small pours, about 2 ounces, in small tulip-shaped glasses. Cool room temperature is best. Foods: Dark chocolate cake with pecans (the one from JCT Kitchen especially); blue cheeses, nuts, fig-centered pastries, such as torta de higos, fruit cake, simple cookie. Georgia Distributor: United Distributors $15.00 2004 Beaucanon Cabernet Franc Napa Valley Review Date - 12/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: What is Cabernet Franc? Besides being a parent (with Sauvignon Blanc) to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc is a Bordeaux variety used typically as part of the blend, although it plays a major role in some (notably Château Cheval Blanc and Château Ausone, St. Emilion’s two Premier Grand Cru Classés). Interestingly, the folks behind Beaucanon Estate, the de Coninck family, also hail from St. Emilion, in Bordeaux. This wine is a medium-bodied red wine with a lovely purple/red color. Initial aromas heap black fruits and a hint of raisin, which lead to a similar palate experience. Emerging in the finish is a hint of coconut, sure sign of American oak. Mellow tannins frame the substantial fruit, and good acidity keeps the wines fruit fresh tasting through the finish. Fruit, oak and tannin are very well integrated. Foods: well-seasoned terrines; smoked meats; meat casseroles or pies (shepherd’s pie, meat pies such as empanadas, tourtière), well-seasoned lamb sausage (mergez, at DeKalb Farmers Market), dark meat turkey, veal meatloaf with mushrooms, caramelized onions and sun-dried tomatoes; duck; cave-aged Gruyère (wow!) and even dark chocolate, which admits the possibility of mole poblano. Georgia Distributor: Empire Distributing $25.00 2005 Buoncristiani OPC Claret Napa Valley Review Date - 12/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Deriving its name from the “new” papal palace in Avignon (1309-1377), Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the southern Rhône, is heir to the papacy’s fostering of viticulture in the area. The appellation produces full-bodied red wines from a blend of 13 permitted grape types, but Grenache leads the pack. The reds are long-lived wines, enduring typically a pair of decades if well cellared. Although known for their longevity, these reds also are delicious in their youth. That’s the case with this one, which comes from a property that goes back to the 16th century. Château La Nerthe’s 225 organically farmed acres are planted to vines that average 40 years. From the spectacular 2005 vintage, this wine shows a deep purple red color. Its aromas display spice, dark fruits—ranging from blueberry to black plum—and a slight hint of sweet tobacco. On the palate, supple tannins support a rich avalanche of dark fruits and spice. The superb balance and integration of fruit and other elements make this enjoyable in its youth, even as it promises pleasure in the future. Besides Grenache, other grapes include Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and others. Foods: Avoid strong spice or hot seasonings. Liver pâtés and rougher-textured terrines; gamy meats, rather than beef, such as lamb, dark meat turkey, smoked pork, game; root vegetable stews seasoned with country ham or pancetta; mild, but rich, firm, aged cheeses (splendid with cave-aged Gruyère). Georgia Distributor: Empire Distributing $40.00 2005 Kluge Estate New World Red Albemarle County Review Date - 12/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: What a shame Jefferson’s not alive for this one!!! Kluge Estate in northern Virginia blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc to craft a wine that could qualify as a Meritage if Kluge Estate chose to join the organization. This full-bodied, deeply colored dry red wine exhibits a bit of dill/herb on the aromas and flavors. There’s also a fair amount of toast and caramel on the oak-influenced aromas (toasty, caramel). On the palate are deep, dark fruit flavors—black currant, spice, chocolate and vanilla. Aging is done entirely in French oak, says the winery.. At the moment, the wine is young, tight and still in need of time to develop. We’d suggest cellaring for 2-5 years. If enjoying now, you’ll find it likes foods that showcase spice and smoke: Smoked liverwurst; peppered salami; chorizo, grilled ham steak; smoked pork with a mild tomato-based barbecue sauce (such as the one from Bobby & June’s Kountry Kitchen on 14th St.), smoked beef roast; pork chop with chili glaze; mild aged, firm cheeses; dark chocolate with some spice (chipotle pepper for instance). Georgia Distributor: Georgia Crown $25.00 2004 Kluge Estate Blanc de Blanc Monticello Review Date - 11/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Since Thanksgiving is a singularly American holiday, why not pour a really good American sparkler. I mean REALLY good, and no, it’s not from California. This Virginia sparkler made entirely of Chardonnay is among the best this country produces. Pale yellow in color and medium-bodied, it is clean in its aromas, and shows a persistent if not especially small bead and good mousse. Aged on the lees for 22 months, the wine shows good complexity. Thanks to good acidity, the palate is crisp, tastes of crisp white fruit, and finishes clean and long. There’s a French hand on these levers, and it shows. Serve it chilled (about 45ºF/7ºC) in tulip-shaped flutes. This is perfect with smoked salmon, smoked salmon mousse, sushi, grilled scallops wrapped in bacon, crab cakes, tiny tartlets (savory); cream soups (fill demitasse cups with creamy corn soup for instance); and it’s steely enough so it might do caviar, especially ikura (salmon) caviar. I’d bet on it with chicken in cream sauce for the meal. Georgia Distributor: Georgia Crown $27.00 2007 Bodegas Godeval Valdeorras Vina Godeval Review Date - 11/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Deep within the landscape of Spain’s northwestern Galicia region lies an ancient monastery, San Miguel de Xagoaza, whose restored walls and vine-planted lands recall the historic links between church and vine. Ruins when the winery was established in 1987, the buildings today showcase adaptive re-use and restoration. This medium-bodied dry white wine, made from the native Galician Godello grape, shows slight greenish highlights. Produced in slate-rich soils, it’s aromatic with floral and white peach notes. Ripe white fruit flavors with plenty of minerals—a decided slate-y character—structure the palate. Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60ºF/13-15ºC in medium-sized tulip-shaped white-wine glasses. Think grilled shellfish, especially scallops wrapped in bacon, shrimp, crab, crab cakes, mussels, seafood salads, baked oyster dishes, clams, calamari with garlic aioli. Georgia Distributor: Prestige Wine Wholesale $20.00 2006 Mas de Bazan Rosado Utiel-Requena Review Date - 11/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: A contrast with the above rosé in many ways, this full-bodied dry wine is based on Bobal (a red Spanish grape that is signature to this appellation), Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. A light red color with a pinkish rim introduces a wine that, due to the depth of color, might strike some rosé purists more as a light red than as a rosé, but it works well in either vein. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry, watermelon and spice prepare the palate for more of the same. Rich, layered red fruits offer complexity and juiciness, while the finish is completely dry. The packaging is a little wild, quite 19th-century exotic, so interesting on its own. Serve this wine slightly chilled, about 50-55ºF/10-13ºC, in a tall tulip-shaped white-wine glass. (Riedel has pink-stemmed glasses made especially for rosé.) Enjoy this with a grilled ham steak, roast chicken, barbecue, grilled shrimp, light vegetable dishes with eggplant and tomato (escalivada), paella, and not-too-sweet Asian dishes. It’s a dry rosé, so it’s ability to pair with spicy food is limited. Terrific value. In Valenciano, a dialect of Catalán, “mas” means “estate.” Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $13.00 2005 Spy Valley Riesling Marlborough Review Date - 11/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Riesling is one of the greatest of the noble varieties. In the 19th century, it cost more to drink a Riesling than a Bordeaux. Several wars later, Riesling is on a comeback. Winemakers love Riesling. The grape will do anything from dry to sweet, luscious dessert wines and from still to sparkling. Dry Riesling is a revelation to wine enthusiasts who hold to the notion that Riesling only is sweet. 'Trocken" and "halb-trocken" Rieslings, dry and half-dry as they're designated in German,.are extraordinary food wines, capable of pairing even with some meat dishes. Down Under can do lovely Riesling, and New Zealand is no exception. This one is exciting and complex from nose to finish. It opens with considerable "wow" factor and complex, mineral-rich aromas backed up by nectarine and lime. Petrol notes emerge in the aromas, then the palate delivers citrus/lime/nectarine fruit leading to a dry, long finish. Serve cool, about 65ºF/17ºC in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Food pairings are legion: Asian dishes that don't have hefty spice (remember this one is dry); chicken-fried pork cutlet; pork steak with mustard cream sauce, apples and onions sautéed; fish fillets oven baked in beer, mustard-influenced Béchamel (white) sauce; chicken in cream sauce; crab cakes; soft-shell crab tempura style; grilled chicken-apple sausage, roast turkey or Cornish hen with apple/cornbread stuffing. Georgia Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $16.00 2007 Chateau de Campuget Rosé Costières de Nîmes Review Date - 11/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Dry rosé is a revelation for consumers who think "if it's pink, it's sweet.) And if it's pink, it must be drunk in the summer. We'll, no to both assumptions. If a dish is appropriate with a rosé, and there's a blizzard on outside, why should I change my wine? Rosés are ideal with so many foods, it's a shame to suspend enjoyment of them until it's warm again outside. So, for friends who are looking for new ideas, give them a surprise with a dry rosé. This one, from France, shows an elegant and less boldly fruity character than some rosés, especially New World rosés that often evidence a bolder style. It's not a matter of which is better, but which you prefer and which goes with a given dish. So this rosé shows restrained, elegant strawberry/raspberry fruit aromas and flavors that go seamlessly from aroma to palate. It's made from Grenache noir (30%) and Syrah (70%), so it's got .plenty of body and a lovely deep pink color. Dry from start to finish, it keeps the palate interested. Good acidity is palate cleansing. Serve just cool (55°F/13°C) in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Makes a lovely aperitif wine with grilled bacon-wrapped scallops; smoked salmon mousse; slightly spicy shrimp dip, crab-and-lobster red pepper dip or mousse; pimento cheeses and bacon on a grits timbale; escalivada (eggplant, tomatoes, peppers and garlic baked and served at room temperature), grilled fish or shellfish with salsa romesco. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $15.00 2007 Mitolo Cabernet Sauvigon McLaren Vale Jester Review Date - 11/1/2008 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Cabernet Sauvignon often leaves me cold, frankly, when it's the only player on the stage. I think the grape needs buddies, a lick of Merlot or Petit Verdot or maybe Cabernet Franc to lend interest and complexity. This example, however, has an intriguing element not often seen in Cabernet Sauvignon, namely, the addition of grapes that have been allowed to dry on the vine before being pressed. The trick gives lends a soupçon of extra aromatics to the red berry fruit on the nose of this medium-bodied dry red wine, but has a more impressive presence on the palate, which shows complex red and dark fruit flavors. The exuberant, but not over-the-top fruit; soft, elegant tannins; and very long attractive finish; indicate a lot of structure that should enable this wine to be a near-term keeper if well cellared. Literally lip-smacking, this is a wine to enjoy with smoked liverwurst; prime rib; steak; duck; goose; game; jerk-influenced grilled lamb chops;, and vegetarian dishes based on black beans or other legumes. It's smashing with firm, aged cheeses and not half bad with blues either. Dark chocolate is lovely. In other words, a full meal deal. Serve it at cool room temperature, about 65ºF/13ºC in tall tulip-shaped glasses, and consider decanting perhaps 30 minutes before serving. Georgia Distributor Prestige Wine Wholesale $22.00 2008 Valdivieso Cabernet Franc Central Valley Single Vineyard Reserve Review Date - 11/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: One may not think of Chile as a spot for Cabernet Franc, but this example from Valdivieso shows that perhaps more thought should be given to this hardy noble variety. Full-bodied, with a deep purple red color, this wine shows lovely dark fruit aromas. Smooth with silky tannins and a fine texture, the wine shows good extraction and tasty dark fruit flavors. Fruit and oak are well integrated. When I visited Valdivieso a few years ago, I was impressed with everything I tasted. (Even the Chardonnay is good!) The winery's Kiwi winemaker, xxxx yyyy), has a gentle hand with grape handling, and it shows. Serve at cool room temperature, about 6ºF/15ºC in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Founded in 1879, the winery is well--established in Chile's viticultural history. The wine pairs nicely with a wide variety of foods, smoked liverwurst; peppered salami or liver pâté; chicken livers; calves' liver and onions; stews; steak; lamb; legume-based dishes; bleu cheeses. Georgia Distributor: New World Wines $20.00 2008 Mollydooker Winery Verdelho Barossa Valley The Violinist Review Date - 11/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: All manner of exotic aromas exude from this full-bodied white wine, known chiefly for its role in Madeira. But in Australia it’s found a second home. A slight earthiness, lime and honeysuckle mark the aromas, and on the palate intense, rich exotic fruits such as pineapple and star fruit fill the mouth. Thirty percent of the wine is barrel fermented in new French (10%) and American oak (20%). Left on lees, it’s stirred daily for 30 days then blended back to the balance of the wine that’s been fermented at cole temperatures in stainless steel. Alcohol is a bit high (15.5%) and shows slightly, but the rich, luscious texture helps to offset the alcoholic heat. As this wine ages it acquires an intense honeysuckle character. Bottled in screwcap, it’s a good keeper for folks who don’t want to finish a bottle at a single sitting. Serve it slightly chilled, about 55-60ºF/13-15ºC, so as not to dim its flavors. Pair this wine with exotically flavored foods, Chinese, curries, Thai poultry and noodle dishes, Indonesian fare with chicken or pork, Indian vegetarian fare that’s not wicked hot. By the way, a Molly Dooker in Australia is what we would call a South Paw (a left hander). Georgia Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $24.00 2003 Barón del Ley Rioja Reserva Review Date - 11/1/2008 Score - 94 Tasting Note: This 90-acre estate occupies the grounds of a 16th-century monastery on the left bank of the Ebro River, and harvests grapes almost exclusively from its own estate. For wine enthusiasts who enjoy big wines, this is a study in “big but balanced” winemaking. Made entirely of Tempranillo, Spain’s flagship red wine grape, the wine is full-bodied with a deep purple red color. Intense aromas of red and dark fruits emerge from the glass, and on the palate, super supple tannins enclose lovely dark fruit and spice characters. Power meets elegance. As a result, the wine goes with food. Novel, huh? The wine was aged 20 months in American and French oak, but American oak does not dominate. Tempranillo is one grape that does well with American oak. Then the wine aged in bottle for 24 months. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65ºF/17ºC, in tall tulip-shaped red-wine glasses. Smoked meats, especially smoked liverwurst, smoked pork loin, smoked prime rib, herb-roasted (including sage) turkey, grilled poultry, such as duck or game birds, prime rib; steak; lamb; firm, aged cheeses. Georgia Distributor: Grapefields $30.00 2007 R. Stuart and Co. Pinot Gris Oregon Vin Tardive Temperance Hill Review Date - 11/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Not uncommon in Alsace, Pinot Gris often finds its way into sweet wines. Oregon may produce a sweet Pinot Gris as well, such as this one. But while it’s sweet, it’s balanced by good acidity that leaves the palate absolutely watering for more. Medium-bodied and showing a pale yellow color, the wine presents aromas of honey, straw and flowers, while the palate surprises with crisp pear/apple fruit. The finish seems dry, as the acidity (8.2%) sets in, makes the mouth water, and takes the edge out of the perception of sweetness, residual sugar 3.45%. The finish is amazingly long, thanks again to that bright acidity. Serve it moderately chilled, about 55-60ºF/13-15ºC, in tulip-shaped white-wine glasses. It’s just 10.65% alcohol, so a decent pour won’t make your legs wobble. Enjoy it with triple cream cheeses, foie gras, savory custards or a savory (onion) custard tart or a savory clafoutis, shellfish, and just maybe a pumpkin dessert if it’s not too sweet (such as a pumpkin roulade with ginger). Georgia Distributor: Georgia Crown 2006 Rippon Hotere White Wine Osteiner Central Otago Review Date - 11/1/2008 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Sweet wines have an appropriate use with a wide variety of cuisines. When I say "sweet," I'm not talking about rich, unctuous dessert wines. I mean wines that have several grams per liter of residual sugar. This unusual variety, Osteiner, is a Riesling-based crossing. It finishes decidedly on the sweet side (RS 1.1), which makes it ideal for anyone looking for that feature in a wine, yet it's clean, not lollipop-ish, has terrific acidity (11.6%), minerality and a luscious texture. Low ph (<3) and low alcohol (11.6%) also means it will work well with food. Rippon claims to be the exclusive cultivators of this variety in New Zealand. The aromas suggest all manner of tropical and exotic fruit, from kiwi to carambola (star fruit). On the palate, pear and white melon flavors linger. The finish is mouthwatering, thanks to good acidity, and fruit-defined. Best served just moderately chilled, cool really, about 60ºF/15ºC. Choose medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Serve with Asian seafood and chicken, chicken salad with curry and fruit, composed salads with fruit and poultry, seafood and white melon with a citrus vinaigrette, roast white meat turkey, smoked turkey breast, roast pork loin. Needless to say, it likes spice (but not heat). Georgia Distributor: Avant Partir $18.00 2005 Churchill Estates Vintage Port Douro Review Date - 11/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Churchill's is the youngster on the block when it comes to Porto, as it was founded in 1981, so it's centuries younger than many of the traditional houses. In 1986 or so, Portugal began to allow its Port6o producers to make table wine using the traditional grape types. This wine, produced in the hot, dry 2005 vintage, especially favorable for the Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (a/k/a Tempranillo) and Touriga Francesa, which are among the varieties vinified for this wine. (Tinta Barroca and Tinta Cão also play roles). is just the second This elegant, full-bodied dry wine shows a beautiful deep purple red color. Aromas suggest dark fruits with some black pepper notes, and on the palate, red fruits come into play with spice and good acidity. Oak--the wine was aged 12 months in new and used French oak--is in perfect balance. Elegant, fruit-derived, supple tannins leave a soft finish on the palate. Good aging potential could keep this wine going at least another 10 years. Suggest decanting before serving at cool room temperature, about 60ºF/15ºC in large-bowled tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Hearty dishs, such as braised beef with assertive seasonings; grilled meats, sautéed pork steaks with mild barbecue sauce; firm, aged cheeses; bleu cheeses; prime rib; roast tenderloin; rack of lamb; roast duck, pastas with dark meat sauces, such as pappardelle (broad noodles) with braised oxtail meat. Georgia Distributor: Grapefields $28.00 2006 CARM Douro Grande Reserva Review Date - 10/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: A few decades ago, Portuguese white wines were a mess. A national program swung into action to correct conditions that produced gallons and gallons of wines that were tired, flat and dull tasting upon release. Now, they're alive with fresh, bright fruit. This is just such a wine. Medium-bodied with a medium yellow color, this dry white wine exhibits exotic aromas of pineapple and mango with an alluring nuttiness from oak just as a grace note. On the palate, sweet fruit characters vie for attention with just a hint of oak, all nicely balanced and elegant. Nice yellow stone fruit character semerge in the finish as the wine develops in the glass. Potential for near term cellaring. Traditional grape types: Verdelho, Siria, Rabigato and other Portuguese varieties from vineyards older than 60 years. Serve moderately chilled, 50-55ºF/10-13ºC). CARM = Casa Agrícola Roboredo Madeira. Foods: Seafood, such as shrimp/lobster terrine; shrimp paste; butternut squash- or pumpkin-stuffed ravioli with toasted pine nuts or crushed hazelnuts and fresh parsley; roasted turkey breast; curried turkey salad or curried turkey over rice. Georgia Distributor: Ultimate Distributors $28.00 2006 Bodegas Alma Negra Brut Rosé Mendoza Review Date - 10/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: The advantage to sparkling wines is that they are able to operate as palate cleansers, no matter what goes on the table. The high acidity--grapes are usually picked at low degrees brix, ensuring high acidity--and refreshing character enable them to accompany a wide range of foods. And if they're pink, so much the better. The Alma Negra Brut Rosé is a medium-bodied sparkling wine based on the Malbec grape, Argentina's icon varietal. Fine eye appeal is thanks to a bright salmon pink color. Lovely, lively, clean aromas of red fruits, especially strawberry and other red fruits, with a whiff of toastiness. Flavors capture strawberry and a hint of aromatic brown spice. Lingering in the finish, this well-balanced wine can see dinner through from start to turkey, although we'd not suggest it for dessert as it's too dry. This one is done in the traditional method, in stainless steel, with 12 months bottle age before release. Serve well chilled, about 45°F/7°C in tulip-shaped Champagne flutes. Start the meal with some crawfish cakes or grilled bacon-wrapped scallops with rémoulade sauce; crab or shrimp Louie; roast turkey with sausage stuffing; Cajun deep-fried turkey; roast duck or Cornish hen. Honestly, go lazy and pick up some Picadilly roast turkey with cornbread dressing, standard yellow turkey gravy, standard cranberry sauce, that wonderful carrot soufflé they turn out, and watch this go with every bite--as I just did. The 2007 vintage is released and in the warehouse. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $22.00 2006 Adegas d'Altamira Albariño Rias Baixas Brandal Review Date - 10/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: For the seafood warm-ups many people enjoy as first courses at Thanksgiving, an albariño goes a long way toward providing the kind of wine that appeals to a wide collection of palates. This one is a light- to medium-bodied wine with a medium-pale yellow color. Aromas focus on white fruits, and there's a hint of stony minerality that's also picked up on the palate. A tangy saltiness ness influences the citrus-highlighted fruit in the Grape type: Albariño. finish. Serve moderately chilled, 50-55ºF/10-13ºC). in a medium-sized tulip-shaped glass. Anything coming out of the sea works with this wine, including crab legs with drawn lemon butter, crab-stuffed flounder, simply grilled sea scallops (vieiras in this part of the world, where it's nearly the national dish) with French-style herbed tartar sauce (Delouis Fils) or Colman's tartar sauce; smoked salmon terrine or mouuse; smoked trout, crab cakes. But also roast chicken breas and has enough body to handle white meat turkey. Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $15.00 2004 Vinoptima Gewürztraminer New Zealand Ormond Review Date - 10/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Dry wines aren't exclusively the best choice with turkey. One may use a well-balanced sweeter wine as well, but it must have some acidity to cleanse the palate and enliven the food. Just such a wine is this Gewürztraminer from New Zealand, which does superb ines with that grape. Showing a lovely medium gold color, t.This one is full-bodied and voluptuous, but neither as sweet nor as rich as a dessert version. Yet it could carry the meal. The aromas target the classic characters of the grape: spice; lychee nut, and less of the rose petal--with flavors that grab a mouthful of sweet yellow and white stone fruits. Clean acidity allows the palate to stay alert. Serve moderately chilled, about 55°F/13°C in tall tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Foods: pumpkin ravioli with aromatic spices in the filling, butter and toasted pine nuts; shrimp/crab ravioli with a curry cream sauce; roast turkey breast with mashed sweet potatoes seasoned with nutmeg and cinnamon; stuffing with some curry accents; strong creamy cheeses, such as French Münster, ginger snaps or ginger-influenced desserts that aren't too sweet, such as a pumpkin roulade. Georgia Distributor: United Distributors $50.00 2007 Bodegas Agustin Cubero Calatayud Stylo Rosado Review Date - 10/1/2008 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Never mind that it's fall. A lovely rosé (or rosado or rosato) is an excellent aperitif or first course wine for Thanksgiving dinner, never mind that it will also happily accompany some turkey preparations. Made from Garnacha (Grenache), this full-bodied dry rosé shows a vibrant strawberry pink color. It's aromas embrace candied apple and red fruits, and on the palate, flavors of red fruits--red raspberries and red cherries--lead to a cry finish. Serve moderately chilled, about 60°F/15°C, or even a notch warmer, to capture this lovely fruit. Use a medium tulip-shaped glass. While I thought it would go better with dry salami than it did (and it still wasn't bad), it really liked spicy seafood fare, such as bacon-wrapped shrimp or scallops with rémoulade sauce; a spicy shrimp dip, crab, red pepper and lobster mousse; Creole barbecued shrimp; and amazingly sage-rubbed turkey breast with pan juices, smoked turkey breast, roast chicken.. It could be a winner with Cajun deep-fried turkey. Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $15.00 2006 Balleto Vineyards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Estate Bottled Review Date - 10/1/2008 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Pinot Noir may well be the ideal red wine with turkey. Not heavy, its classic flavors, especially those from Russian River Valley, focus on red cherries and other red fruits. Some, in my view, can be over the top, when a little restraint would go a long way to making them more useful with food. This example doesn't make you go "wow"; it's quiet and restrained. Savory rather than sweet. The aromas are fairly closed still, and there's no earthiness, but the flavors contribute nicely to the red fruit reputation of Russian River Valley Pinots. As a result, the wine dos very well with sage-and-herb-crusted roast turkey--both white and dark meat, as well as duck, roast chicken, and roast Cornish hen. It will do nicely, too, with pre-meal nibbles, such as smoked liverwurst (Patak), creamy liver mousses, or grilled chicken livers w finished with a touch of Madeira. Also consider the Pinot Gris and Zinfandel with your turkey.; just keep that sage away from the Pinot Gris. Georgia Distributor: Empire Distributing $24.00 2003 Monteoliveto Dolcetto d'Alba Review Date - 10/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Italian red wines are great with turkey, as well as with other fowl. You could almost throw a dart and pick something that would work, as they're rather like heat-seeking missiles, knowing exactly what the target is and where it is. Try this medium- full-bodied dry red wine with a medium deep ruby red color, for example. The complex aromas emit scents of dried dark fruits, wet straw, and earth. Just sniffing it is compelling enough, but do go on to savor the palate, where the dried dark fruits take up the cause and complete the experience. A lingering finish with sweet fruits and a hint of almonds closes the show Grape type: Dolcetto. Serve cool, about 65°F/17°C in large tulip-shaped glasses. Bring on the feathered (and furred) game: roast duck; squab; roast turkey with sausage stuffing; grilled duck breast with fig vinegar glaze; soft cheeses; dark chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $22.00 2004 Viña Estampa Carmenère-Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Colchagua Valley Gold Assemblage Review Date - 10/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Not everybody goes for fowl for Thanksgiving. IN some households, a standing rib is the order of the day for both Thanksgiving and Christmas. The richness of such a meal requires a full-bodied red wine, but one that still has good balance. This one works well with beef, but also doesn't disrespect roast turkey, smoked turkey or chicken. And it's very nice with duck. A blend of five Bordeaux varietals--thus, it could be a Meritage were the producers members of that group--this full-bodied red wine shows a lovely almost opaque deep ruby red color. The grapes are Carmenère (a Bordeaux original), Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Its aromas present fresh red fruits, with none of the herbaceousness typically associated with the dominant Carmenère. Flavors continue red fruits with an additional hint of soy. The long finish ends with a bit of heat, which is tempered by reducing the serving temperature closer to that of the cellar, around 60°F/15°C. Serve in large-bowled tulipp-shaped glasses. Besides prime rib, it still tasted good with roast turkey, duck, and even chicken, and would probably do very nicely with squab (obtainable at the Asian markets in Atlanta). Firm, aged cheeses and dark chocolate would make nice meal-enders with this wine. Georgia Distributor: New World Wine $20.00 2005 Schlumberger Wein und Sektkellerei AG Brut Rosé Burgenland Review Date - 10/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Brut rosé goes with so many foods, it's almost impossible to mess up a pairing (only cheese might be tricky). This one originates in Austria, thus is pronounced with a hard "g" and not, as with the Alsace Schlumberger, with a soft "g." Grape type: Pinot Noir, here known as Blauer Burgunder, the wine presents a lovely delicate pink hue. Delicacy aalso marks the soft red fruit aromas, while the full-bodied mousse settles down to a fine, pinpoint persistent bead. Elegant, fresh red fruit characters and good acidity to refresh the palate keep one coming for more sips. Just 8 grams per liter of residual sugar, making it well below the brut threshold (15 g/l). Serve chilled, about 45-50ºF/7-10ºC in tall tulip-shaped Champagne flutes. Enjoy with light appetizers: tiny Asian dumplings with Ponzu dipping sauce; skewered grilled shrimp; small crab cakes with rémoulade; crawfish salad; grilled tiny ribs with mild barbecue sauce. Georgia Distributor: Peach State Wine & Spirits $20.00 2006 Catena Alamos Bonarda Review Date - 10/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Bonarda is a grape type associated with California's Charbono and more likely originating in the Savoie, France, on its eastern border with Switzerland, rather than in Italy. The grape produces lush, ruby-red, dark-colored, aromatic red berry-flavored wines with soft tannins. This one hews classically to the type, with its lovely ruby red nearly opaque color, full body and tasty red berry fruit permeating both aromas and flavors. Tannins are ripe and graceful, so won't interfere with anyone's enjoyment. Finish is moderately long, clean. Good value. Serve cool, about 60°F/15°C in large-bowled tulip-shaped glasses. Foods: Salamis and other cured meats; lasagna; roast turkey with sage; roast or grilled duck (try raisin bread stuffing if roasted whole); Cornish hen split and grilled, basted with some of the wine and red currant jam, melted. Georgia Distributor: Georgia Crown $10.00 Rey Fernando de Castillo Pedro Ximenez Antique Review Date - 10/1/2008 Score - 95 Tasting Note: To end a holiday meal on a nearly sybaritic note, reach for the unctuous richness of a Pedro Ximénez. This is the grape that is the foundation of one of Spain's most luxurious wines. The grapes for the wine are dried on straw mats for more than a month, reducing their water content and concentrating their sugars. This one hews closely to the classical model; a full-bodied wine, with substantial alcohol (15%) and a rich, deep opaque, amber brown color. The aromas offer rich, dried fruits with touches of caramel, toffee3 and brown aromatic spices. On the palate, the wine's pleasure comes as much from is texture as from its taste. Luxuriously rich, with serious concentration and intense flavors, it's a dessert all by itself served at cool temperatures, about 60-65°F/15-17°C. in small "copitas" or Port glasses, tulip-shaped and slightly closing at the top. With the high alcohol, you don't want to overpour. But its richness alone limits how much you can drink of this sensuous libation. Food pairings are somewhat limited, but nonetheless satisfying: toasted, lightly salted almonds; torta de higos; rich, aged firm cheeses, such as a curado Manchego; pound cake; simple ginger-molasses cookie; pecan tart that's not too sweet (if making your own, cut the sweetness with a little lemon juice). Georgia Distributor: Georgia Crown $60.00 Three Sisters Vineyards Dahlonega Gold Review Date - 10/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Thanksgiving desserts typically focus on fall's bounty, meaning they're based on pumpkin or apple, both of which Georgia produces in abundance. Georgia also produces a very worthy choice for Thanksgiving desserts and cheeses at Three Sisters Vineyards and Winery near Dahlonega. Dahlonega Gold is a nonvintage medium- full-bodied wine with a medium pale yellow color. While silky and viscous on the palate, the wine shows lovely balance. Pear and sweet white melon dominate the fruit in both the aromas and the flavors, and the finish is long and luxurious. This late harvest white wine is made from Vidal Blanc, a French-American hybrid grape that makes lovely dry wines as well as tasty dessert wines. Serve moderately chilled, about 55°F/13°C in small tulip-shaped glasses. Enjoy with foie gras, chicken liver mousse with Porto for openers and with not-too-sweet desserts such as pumpkin mousse; creamy blue cheeses (awesome Cambozola),and sautéed pears, pear tart, apple-almond tart, pumpkin roulade. Georgia Distributor: Three Sisters Vineyards $30.00 2004 Three Sisters Vineyards Pinot Blanc Lumpkin County Review Date - 9/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: A mutation of Pinot Gris, and thus of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Blanc is most often associated with Alsace in France, although its origins are Burgundian. Today, little remains of it in Burgundy. But the north Georgia mountains lay claim to some. This example is a medium-bodied white wine with a pale straw color. True to the grape type, the aromas are not intense or immediate, but subtle tones of pear and white melon make their way through the Pinot Blanc cloud. On the palate, flavors--still pear and white melon-- are elegant and refined, while the texture is silky and round. A slight note of the taste (not the sweetness) of honey finds its way into the sensations. Serve at 50-55ºF/10-13ºC. Foods: mild fish and white meat dishes with cream; chicken thighs braised on a bed of caramelized onions, with mashed potatoes mild, creamy cheeses. Georgia Distributor: Three Sisters Winery self distributes $18.00 2007 Terra Andina Carmenere Central Valley Review Date - 9/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Carmenére is a Bordeaux variety that nearly (but not entirely) disappeared post-phylloxera in Bordeaux, but made its way with French emigrants to Chile. There, for a long time, it was confused with Merlot, but now the truth is out and Carmenère it is for now and ever more. Quite a bit of "Cabernet Franc" in northern Italy Carmenère (you'll also see Carménère) shows a tendency to become herbaceous and typically is quite dark in color. The former is not true of this example, but the latter is. This Carmenère shows a lovely dark violet red color and an aroma of luscious dark fruits from black currants to blackberries. The same fruit flavors continue to the palate, and the tannins are supple and fruit-derived. Moderate acidity and just a bit of residual sugar finish the profile. It tastes best consumed around 60-65ºF/15-17ºC in a Bordeaux glass (large tulip-shaped). It is, after all, a Bordeaux variety. This is a first-class value. Foods: meat-filled empanadas; hamburgers; well-marinated steaks or steak with chimichurri sauce; smoked chicken; grilled sausages and red peppers, Southern barbecue; roast duck, grilled lamb steaks. Georgia Distributor: New World Wines $8.00 2006 Valdivieso Rosé Cabernet Sauvignon Central Valley Review Date - 9/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: This weather begs for rosé, but not the simple sweet stuff that characters yesterday's pink wines. This example is exactly what we need more of: medium-bodied with a gorgeous, bright orange-rimmed fuchsia color. Aromas and flavors bring up thoughts of candied apples, strawberries, watermelon and red raspberries. This fresh and fruity-focused rosé wine shows lovely acidity is unpretentious and easy to enjoy. It invites sitting on the deck until the tree frogs start their nightly symphony talking with friends (or with no one), and NOT waxing snobbish about the wine. The grape is Cabernet Sauvignon. Serve in medium-sized, tulip-shaped glasses at about 55ºF/17ºC. Here's a test: as it warms up in the glass, it still tastes good. Foods to have handy include spicy shrimp spreads; smoked salmon mousse; shrimp and grits with saut/éed strips of sweet bell peppers and maybe a little tasso ham (a la Horseradish Grill); slightly spicy grilled sausages; Korean barbecue or good old-fashioned Southern barbecued chicken; Creole barbecued shrimp. Georgia Distributor: New World Wines $9.00 2007 Roberto Anselmi Veneto San Vincenzo IGT Review Date - 9/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: The ideal warm weather wine sees no oak, preferring to rest in stainless steel and bottle before being released. Moderate alcohol is another key, along with crispness, good acidity, and complexity. Just such a wine is this lovely, complex wine from a master Soave producer. If you've grown accustomed to thinking of Soave as bland and characterless, you're in for a revelation. The aromas jump out of the glass with a variety of sensations at hand, including white fruits and minerals. On the palate, the silky texture and depth of flavor from start through mid-palate and long finish focuses on the same white fruits and enhanced minerality. Some writers describe this wine as "simple." Rubbish. It's wonderfully complex. Grape types: Garganega 80%, Chardonnay (15%) and Trebbiano di Soave (a'k/a Verdicchio) (5%). Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/113ºC in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Enjoy the day you open it; loses its bloom the next day. Foods: pasta salads with creamy dressings; grilled scallops or mild fish with tartar sauce; chicken salad; herbed creamy soft cheese with vegetables for dipping; potato salad with oil and vinegar and cumin seed; shrimp salad; crab cakes, white or margherita pizza. Winery says smoked fish, but I tried two and found both dreadful with the wine. Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Co. $15.00 2007 Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Rosado Review Date - 9/1/2008 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Consistently a winner vintage after vintage, this dry, full-bodied rosé shows a lovely deep reddish pink. Aromas take on the scent of strawberries, raspberries, with the slightest suggestion of tangerine zest. The red fruit characters continue on the palate, gathering subtle spice nuances The long finish is crisp and clean. Very compelling, and an excellent value. Grape types: Tempranillo 80%; Garnacha 20%. Serve moderately chilled, 50-55ºF/10-13foC. A great value. Foods: Oh, so many1! Shrimp, crab and red pepper spread; grilled seafood with rémoulade sauce; chicken wings; fried chicken; grilled sausage with roasted red peppers; faro salad with grape tomatoes, black olives and feta cheese (DeKalb Farmers Market); barbecue; paella smoked or roast chicken; pork chop or roast pork loin or tenderloin; even decent with collard greens. Georgia Distributor: Empire Distributing $8.00 2007 Meinklang Blauburgunder Weissgepresst Rosé Frizzante Review Date - 9/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Any afternoon spent on the patio or deck needs to start with bubbles. One of the most rewarding and unusual sparklers I've seen this summer is a dry rosé of Pinot Noir from Austria. This outfit, which also raises Angus cattle, does a wide spectrum of wines, from dry to sweet, including dessert wines from the Bouvier grape, which I fell hard for about a decade ago. This organically/biodynamically grown wine shows a gorgeous delicate pink color. Just looking at it gives you a lift. Then comes the wonderful, slightly floral, delicate scent that leads to a rush of red fruits on the palate: Strawberry and raspberry flavors show a freshness that wakes up the mouth most delightfully. With just 11% alcohol, this wine will revive you, not knock you out. Serve chilled at 45-50ºF/7-10ºC in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Use a corkscrew for this one as the stopper is not a classic Champagne-style cork. A great value in this genre. Foods: Delicate summer fare, such as potted shrimp, crab/lobster terrine or dip with red pepper; crawfish salad, Thai-style seafood dishes (not too hot), spring rolls, dim sum, such as potstickers or steamed dumplings, chicken or ham croquetas. Hemispheres Georgia Distributor: Hemispheres $17.00 2005 M'hudi Pinotage Stellenbosch Review Date - 9/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Pinotage--the grape achieved in the early 20th century by crossing Pinot Noir and Cinsault--is South Africa's icon grape. Its unfortunate reputation for medicinal "band-aid" aromas frequently keeps consumers from enjoying it. But new young producers are finding ways of eliminating those troublesome aromas, although its fans in South Africa often yearn for "old style" Pinotage. Most of us don't. This one shows a deep, lovely purple plum color, and reveals lots of fresh dark fruit in the aromas and flavors. Not a whiff of band-aid. Easy tannins. Foods: braised oxtails rr short ribs of beef cooked in Pinotage; cold steak salad; Derived from the Setswana word, “mohudi” meaning “harvester, ”. M'Hudi also is the heroine of an African story in which she flees her war-ravaged village crossing dangerous terrain and ultimately finding a new beginning. She is symbolic of the relentless pursuit of one’s dreams and aspirations. Former ad agency copywriter Tseliso Rangaka, owner, and his sister Lebogang, marketing, are guided by folks from Villiera, which produces amazing wines. Try also the Sauvignon Blanc, ideal for summer sipping. Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $17.00 2004 Vinedos y Bodegas Pablo Menguante Garnacha Cariñena Review Date - 9/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: This medium-full-bodied dry red wine is the perfect red wine for warm weather, to go with grilled meats, barbecue, and roasted or grilled vegetables. Although it has hefty alcohol--14?%--it's still a fine, fruit-filled wine that can be enjoyed with many foods. Or even by itself. First, enjoy the bright, deep ruby red color and good extraction. Vines that are 80 years old provide intensely flavored, small berries. The aromas focus on fine dark berries, and firm but friendly tannins frame the sweet dark fruit, a tumble of blackberry, blueberry and black currant flavors. The hint of caramel comes from the likely use of American oak, but in this case it's not aggressive. Silky textured and long in the finish, with a note of dried dark fruits in the close, this is a wine for lots of purposes, from rustic to fancy. It's also a potential short-term keeper if well cellared. Foods: Smoked liverwurst; steak with blue cheese sauce; grilled duck breast; eggplant-based vegetarian dishes;, such as escalivada; cured meats; grilled ham steak; barbecue; pasty-wrapped sausages with mustard; blue and firm aged cheeses. Georgia Distributor: Metro Premium Wines $19.00 2006 Monteporzio Catone Frascati Superiore Il Frascati Review Date - 9/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Few wines have as long a history as this one, associated as it is with the town of Frascati about 15 miles from Rome. It's reported that in the middle 15th century, the small town (today about 20,000) had more than 1,000 taverns! It's chief claim to fame, besides its charm and historic character, is this light-bodied dry aromatic wine with a pale yellow color. Jjust right for warm-weather al fresco dining, it opens with the distinct aroma of roasted almonds, and slips easily into flavors that carry forward the almond extract character into fine white fruits, melon and pear. The silky texture and almon-tinged long finish are characteristic. The grapes are Malvasia and Trebbiano. The Romans drink Frascati with everything. Amazing flexibility with food and amazing subtle differences among various examples of the genre. Serve chilled, (45-50ºF/4-8/ºC) in small tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Foods: sautéed chicken livers seasoned with five spice powder, all manner of seafood; parchment cooked white fish with green vegetables; pasta with pesto and toasted pine nuts; clams and/or oysters with lemon. Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $11.00 2007 Schloss Wallhausen Riesling Nahe Two Princes Review Date - 9/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: With typically moderate alcohol, Riesling makes a perfect choice for sipping out on the patio. This example shows a very pale straw color and some sweetness. But the zingy acidity keeps the sweetness in balance, staying its hand and not allowing it to become cloying. A delicate scent of citrus flowers provides initial interest, while the palate is framed by flavors of nectarine and kumquat. Minerality contributes its portion to the wine's complexity. Mouthwatering to the very last of the finish, the endgame is clean, crisp and compels another sip. Serve not too chilled, about 55-60ºF/13-15ºC. Foods: smoked salmon terrine; grilled ham steakwith mustard sauce; fish poached in beer, mustard cream sauce; light curries, such as lightly curried chicken salad; grilled chicken with yellow fruits and a curried mayonnaise; chicken thighs braised on a bed of caramelized onions; anything Asian exotic but not too hot in seasoning. Great little value. The Prince zu Salm-Salm and his son are the "two princes" of the label, and represent respectively the 31st and 32nd generation of winemakers at this estate. Interesting Atlanta connection: Felix Constantin Alexander Johann Nepomuk Prinz zu Salm-Salm, a Federal officer, was briefly the military and civilian governor of North Georgia after the U.S. Civil War. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $13.00 2006 Zolo Malbec Mendoza Review Date - 9/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Although it may have originated in Hungary, Malbec came to Argentina from Bordeaux, but today, Malbec is the backbone of Cahors, which lies east of Bordeaux. In Cahors, where it's also known as Côt, AOC regulations require the grape to constitute 70% of the blend. With its depth of color, it makes splendid rosés (Melipal, Unique World Wine, $13, and Susana Balbó, Quality, $12, both from Argentina). Typical of the grape, the color in this example is a nearly opaque purple red with violet tones. Its aromas tend toward intense black fruits with some red fruit characters accompanying them on the palate--notably a touch of red raspberry in the finish. Big but not jammy, the flavors are framed by supple tannins, and supported by a touch of oak--just three months in French oak. Alcohol is moderately high, at 13.8%, but shows when it's tasted at higher room temperature, unless served with rich foods. It does better cooler, at about 65ºFF/17ºC.. Lots of foods: Peppered liver pâté or salamis (especially when served cool), smoked liverwurst (Patak/DeKalb Farmers Market); all manner of cured meats and salumi; empanadas and matambre (a rolled, stuffed, flank steak served sliced and cold), roasted rack of lamb, balaco with tomato, vegetable terrines, ratatouille, barbecue, roast duck. Georgia Distributor Unique World Wines $13.00 2007 Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon Margaret River Review Date - 9/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Warm weather calls for light- to medium-bodied wines that are enhanced by being chilled, show lively fruit and good, crisp acidity. This is just such a wine. With hits pale greenish straw color, its aromas of lemongrass, citrus (grapefruit) zest, and a hint of white pepper, this is an ideal warm-weather wine. As it opens in the glass, it acquires a suggestion of white stone fruits, and its mid palate is broad and fruit-laden, especially suggesting passion fruit and carabola (star fruit) . Good acidity keeps the long finish crisp, while the texture is creamy. A portion is barrel fermented. There might be just a bit of residual sugar here, but not above .2-.3. The ratios are 53% Sauvignon Blanc and 47% Semillon--the classic white Bordeaux blend. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF/13ºC in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Drink young; not a keeper. Foods: feta cheese-stuffed green olives; feta or goat cheese; pasta with pesto; fresh oysters with lemon or baked with cream sauce and fresh herbs, very likely also Rockefeller; cheese-filled ravioli or tortellini with pesto; simple grilled fish or scallops; seafood our white-meat poultry with Asian accents. Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Co. $17.00 2006 Domaine de la Batardiere Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Review Date - 8/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Sultry days like these need wines that are uplifting to the palate, with fresh, zingy acidity and clean fruit. Doesn't hurt if there's a bit of minerality to the composition, either. Such as wine is this Muscadet. Light- medium-bodied, with a lovely straw color, the wine opens with a medley of citrus aromas and flavors. As it evolves, it shows increasing complexity, and the minerality starts to intersect the fruit flavors. The grape type is Melon de Bourgogne, a variety often confused in California with Pinoc Blanc. It's ideal with summer foods: briny raw oysters with lemon; oysters Rockefeller; smoked salmon mousse or terrine; quiche with caramelized onions; shrimp or other shellfish with rémoulade sauce; king crab legs with lemon butter; chicken croquetas; walnut-sized potatoes stuffed with Boursin cheese or with sour cream and chives. This is an awesome value that simply tastes way better than its price would suggest. Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Company $8.00 2004 Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Review Date - 8/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: This is a lot of wine for the money, pure and simple. With its deep purple red color, this medium-bodied dry red wine shows somewhat shy aromas of dark fruit and spice, but the flavors aren't shy in the slightest. A cooler temperature, about 60-65ºF/15-17ºC., brings out the spice character. Tannins are graceful and fruit derived,assuring the likelihood of some further longevity if well cellared. Prices vary widely on this one, but it can be found below the $7 mark, making it a superb choice for outdoor grilling with a gang of friends. One taster guessed it cost $20!! After tasting this wine many times over the years, I admire its consistency vintage after vintage. Foods: peppered liver pàté; cured meats; braised short-ribs of beef over mashed potatoes, soft polenta or grits; slow-smoked pork butt; all grilled red meats, including duck and sausages; grilled chicken; blue and firm aged cheeses. Georgia Distributor: General Wholesale $8.00 Rotari Brut Rosé Trento Review Date - 8/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: With 25% Chardonnay and 75% Pinot Noir, this classical method (meaning the second fermentation takes place in the bottle, as is done in Champagne) Italian sparkling wine offers extraordinary value for the money. Its lovely medium pale pink color and lifted red fruit aromas introduce a rich, elegant palate. The finish is clean, dry and crisp; the bead is small and persistent. Treat it like a Champagne, and serve chilled, 45ºF/7-8ºC in tall tulip-shaped flutes. Kept on the lees for 24 months. Steam sea bass in parchment paper along with sun-dried tomatoes, fresh herbs and vegetables. Very good with smoked pork butt and a sweet-spicy full-bodied barbecue sauce. All manner of Asian fare, such as sushi, dim sum, shumai with Ponzu dipping sauce, teriyaki, rumaki, similar appetizers. Sunday brunch with curried fruit, smoked salmon. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $12.00 2004 Bodega Hinojosa Tempranillo Mendoza Don Silvestre Review Date - 8/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: While the aromas on this finely crafted wine aren't as generous as one might wish, the flavor profile certainly makes up for it. Spice and dark fruits--plum, dark cherry,--blend on the palate, making it difficult to stop sipping this one. Silky tannins and good acidity boost the finish, which is substantial for a wine this inexpensive or one that costs a lot more. Tempranillo, meaning the early little one because of its size and its tendency to flower early, is an important grape in Argentina, not just Spain. Powerful lot of flavor for the money. Foods: beef-filled empanadas;salamis and other cured meats; roast dark meat turkey; grilled beef and other red meats; roast duck; leg of lamb; mole poblano; blue and firm aged cheeses; dark chocolate (interesting with the Dagoba Xocolatl, an organic dark chocolate and chili nibs--available at Whole Foods and DeKalb Farmers Market). Serve slightly cool, about 65ºF/17ºC in large tulip-shaped glasses. Georgia Distributor: New World Wines $5.00 2006 Clos Otto Boxhead Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley Review Date - 8/1/2008 Score - 89 Tasting Note: The world seems full of Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvigon blends, most of them--especially the less expensive ones--drilling dull. Here's an exception: This full-bodied dry red wine shows a lovely purple red color, and opens with aromas the suggestion of freshly cured tobacco and rich dark and red fruits, which come through full force on the palate. Rich fruit and round tannins make a perfectly lovely marriage. The alcohol is hefty, as is often the case with these, 14.5%, but rich foods and a reduced serving temperature (go for about 65ºF/18Cº.) temper it. Three different lots were blended from Barossa, Langhorne Creek, and Victoria contributed the fruit, which is 72% Shiraz and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. Foods: barbecue (as Southerners mean the term); grilled meats, too; chicken baked under a blanket of rich tomato sauce; roast pork tenderloin with chipotle glaze; grilled fairly spicily seasoned sausages; grilled ham steak, tomato-baked meatloaf. Very fine value. Georgia Distributor: Unique World Wines $10.00 2006 Bodegas Agustin Cubero Stylo Review Date - 8/1/2008 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Achiving DO status in 1990, Calatayud is loated in western Aragón, the kingdom associated with famed Ferdinand. This full-bodied dry red wine is 100% old-vine Grenache, and shows a dark violet-tinged red color. Aromas are a little shy, but what's there is clean, fresh and fruit- Very fruit forward, the wine shows plums and dark fruits, while tannins are round and very well integrated. The palate is not especially complex, but certainly pleasing, and the finish is long and fruit-filled. "Cubero" is Spanish for “cooper” although these wines are unoaked. The bodega founded in 1881 on the edge of the town of Calatayud, features a state-of-the art facilitym with the best of technology and traditional family methods, Serve cool, about 65ºF/17ºC to showcase the fruit characters. Very fine value. Foods; really good with smoked purk butt and a slightly sweet/spicy tomato-based barbecue sauce (Johnny's Pride), pepper liver pàté; herb-crusted salami; grilled meats; roast duck; Korean or Chinese barbecue. Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $12.00 2007 Bodegas Y Viñedos Tornero Jazz-Min Review Date - 8/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Fine fruit aromas and flavors bring focus to this medium-bodied dry white wine. With its medium golden color, it leads one to anticipate a more voluptuous fruit character. Not that there isn't good fruit here; there is. But what's startling is the minerality, the chalky thread that runs through it, adding unexpected complexity. The texture shows a certain fleshinss that counterweights the stony minerals. The grapes are native to Spain: 60% Macabeo (a/k/a Viura); and 40% Airén, the latter Spain's most widely planted grape and the foundation of its fortified coñac or brandy. Serve it at a cool temperature, around 50ºF/10ºC: Foods with assertive seasoning dishes with saffron; curried chicken or fish (not too hot); garlic shrimp or chicken; paella; firm aged cheeses. Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $16.00 2006 Henri Bourgeois Sauvignon Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France Petit Bourgeois Review Date - 8/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: A Sauvignon Blanc for anyone skittish about the grape comes in the form of this fruit-centered version that, while Old World and therefore restrained, nonetheless provides clearly varietal fruit. Medium-bodied, moderate in alcohol (12.5%), and pale straw I color, it opens with a refreshing, classic scent of grapefruit zest. Good acidity makes its mouthwatering presence on the palate last a long while, even as it keeps a good handle on the grapefruit zest-kissed flavors. Very good depth of flavor clearly belongs to the grape type: Sauvignon Blanc. Yet this is a vin de pays. M. Bourgeois supposedly entered the wine in a Sancerre competition, which it won and got its producer into a pack of trouble. Savor it on one of these hot days at about 50 ºF/10ºC in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Goodness gracious, what a value! Foods: roasted or baked oysters with butter, lemon, white wine and fresh herbs; pistachio- or herb-crusted goat cheese lightly sautéed on mixed greens, lemon herb vinaigrette; garlic shrimp with rémoulade or tartar sauce; poached or baked white fish with herb butter/garlic/olive oil sauce; poached quenelles of pike or other firm white fish with beurre blanc (or anything with beurre blanc, really). Georgia Distributor: Medto Premium Wines $14.00 2003 Greysac Medoc Review Date - 8/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: In this tight economy, are you avoiding Bordeaux wines? Of course, the classified growths cost a t sum that would challenge your mortgage. But there are lesser known Bordeaux that can bring the tastes of the region to your table, even on a Wednesday, at a reasonable price. The château's 95 hectares/234 acres of vineyards are distributed among the classic Bordeaux varieties roughly as follows: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. Vines age average 30 years, as much replanting followed its acquisition by new owners in 1972. This medium- full-bodied red wine, with a solid ruby red color, shows a classic Bordeaux nose, with notes of cedar and tobacco along with wild dark berries. On the palate, these same characters march in harmony along with elegant, fruit-expressive tannins through to a persistent finish. I've savored this château's work for several years, liking it some vintages and not in others. This is one of the best I've seen from this producer. The 2003 vintage--the hot one--produced rich, ripe fruit, but the winemaker did not let it escape into overripe jamminess. Drink now in large tulip-shaped glasses at about 60ºF/15ºC. Very fine value. Foods: terrines; meat pies; game; grilled and roasted red meat; duck; firm, aged cheeses. Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Company $19.00 2006 Frogtown Cellars Vineaux Blanc Review Date - 8/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Hand a glass of this North Georgia wine to anyone who considers him- herself a wine "connoisseur," and they'll be pleased but stumped as to white it is. They'll agonize over familiar grape types. Is it Chardonnay? (no). A Sauvignon Blanc? (no, despite lots of citrus). With its bright yellow color, this delightful medium-bodied dry white wine offers a range of flavors along with minerality and complexity. Who would guess Seyval and Vidal? These two French-American hybrids grapes can make tasty wines if properly vinified--that is at cold temperatures and with limited oak contact to maintain fresh fruit flavors. There's also some Viognier here, which lifts the aromas and adds some voluptuousness. You'll find Vineaux Blanc on the wine list at the new Spice Market, where it pairs very well with any shellfish dish, especially the tempura soft-shell crab. Seafood salads, poached chicken breast with light curry mayonnaise, and classic chicken salad also would be good. Georgia Distributor: Frogtown Cellars (Georgia wines may self-distribute) $14.00 2006 Willamette Valley Riesling Oregon Review Date - 8/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: This medium-bodied semi-sweet white wine shows a lovely pale yellow color. But this is not to be confused with simple, cloying-sweet Rieslings. This is no liquified lollipop. Instead, it opens with a complex, lifted, sweet fruit aroma that offers a touch of the scent of honey mingled with white fruits--white peaches, nectarines, pears and melon. The palate picks up these same characters, and adds a touch of citrus zest, crisp apple, and honey taste to the mix. A fine backbone of acidity keeps the sweetness from sliding off the tracks. The finish is super long, and the impression of luxurious deliciousness and the acidity hang in there to the close. In style, it clearly nods toward Germanic wines, with its voluptuous but balanced sweetness. Serve at 50-55ºF/10-13ºC). A really fine value in this genre from one of Oregon's better recent vintages. Foods: light curries (curried chicken salad with apples); pork chops with sautéed onions and apples; Asian dishes with poultry, seafood or pork; smoked pork chops with apple/jícama slaw; pork steaks or boneless chicken breasts with whole-grain mustard cream, spaetzle with ham and cream; grilled chicken apple sausages with caramelized onions. Georgia Distributor: General Wholesale $12.00 2006 A to Z Rosé Oregon Review Date - 8/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: "Aristocratic wines at democratic prices," announces the winery's motto, and this example alone sets for a major piece of the evidence. What a value. Out of the bottle comes a wine of deep, but translucent, red color. The red fruit profile dominates the aromas--strawberry, red cherry, watermelon, red raspberry. The same flavors move to give character to the palate, with enjoys ample, fleshy fruit textures as well as intense fruit flavors. The grape is Sangiovese grown close to the California border. Of course, all was done in stainless steel to preserve that lovely fruit freshness. The crisp, snappy finish reflects that bright acidity that makes it a good food wine. Very fine value. I'd drink this in the middle of a blizzard, but it is the perfect wine for this crazy heat. Try it with grilled chicken, grilled ham steak, roasted duck, salamis and charcuterie, wings, fried chicken, muffalettas and other hearty meat-filled sandwiches with good bread. Be sure to serve cool, around 55ºF/17ºC. Georgia Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $13.00 2006 Maryhill Winery Rose of Sangiovese Columbia Valley Review Date - 7/1/2008 Score - 96 Tasting Note: Full-bodied very slightly off dry (1.1 RS) rosé; lovely raspberry pink color. Intense aromas of spice and ripe, red fruits, especially strawberry and raspberry. On the palate, a fleshy texture backs up rich, sweet red fruits and propels the wine to a long, fine, fruit-filled finish with a light citrus note in the close. This is awesome work. These grapes were selected specifically to make rosé, macerated briefly, then pressed and cold fermented. Grape: Sangiovese. Heavy-duty award winner, and no wonder. Great value. Suggested Food Pairings: Sooo many foods: farro (a grain) salad with grape tomatoes, feta cheese and olive oil (DeKalb Farmers Market); slightly spice cured Spanish-style chorizo; spicy shrimp dip; crab-and-red pepper spread; pimento cheese; grilled ham steak; vegetable-stuffed stromboli or calzone; red snapper baked in spicy tomato or vegetable juice with sautéed bell peppers; rotisserie or fried chicken; eggplant casseroles; grilled sausage with sun-dried tomatoes and feta cheese; roast pork loin with sweet chipotle pepper sauce, barbecued ribs with light tomato-based sauce. Georgia Distributor: Metro Premium Wines $12.00 2007 Angove's Rosé Nine Vines South Australia Review Date - 7/1/2008 Score - 86 Tasting Note: Medium- full-bodied dry rosé wine; very pretty medium-deep reddish pink Rich with red fruit aromas, a touch of candied apple; clean, sweet red fruits frame the fairly simple palate. Good acidity but the burst of acid at the end suggests post-fermentation acid adjustment. (When acid's adjusted pre-fermentation, it's better integrated.) Grape: Grenache (70%;) Syrah (30%). Moderate alcohol: 12.5%. Angove's was established in Adelaide in 1886. Suggested Food Pairings: Particularly good with Asian food, Chinese dishes (salt-and-pepper shrimp or squid; sesame chicken; chicken balls; barbecued pork buns; dim sum); smoked salmon mousse with dill; Carolina-style barbecue (pulled pork with vinegar-based sauce); farro (a grain) with grape tomatoes, feta cheese, Niçoise olives and olive oil (DeKalb Farmers Market); tomatoes stuffed with shrimp salad; fried chicken. Georgia Distributor: United Distributors $12.00 2005 Sawyer Cellars Rose of Merlot Rutherford Review Date - 7/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied slightly off-dry rosé wine; medium reddish pink. Aromas of fresh red fruits, especially strawberries and raspberries, with plenty of acidity. Despite its distance from harvest, it retains good fruit character, and lasts nicely when open over the course of a couple of days if kept chilled.. Luscious, silky texture, with an appealing mouth-watering finish. Suggested Food Pairings: Classic Mexican dishes with mild tomato-based salsas; roast pork tenderloin with chipotle/honey glaze; grilled mildly spicy sausages; barbecued chicken; barbecued shrimp, baby back ribs with mild tomato-based sauce (Fox Bros); grilled ham steak; eggplant with pine nuts and a bread-crumb crust; teriyaki; fried chicken with a little curry powder in the flour, chicken Biryani or similar mildly seasoned Indian chicken dishes, grilled or roasted vegetables. Georgia Distributor: Peach State Wine & Spirits $20.00 Laetitia Brut Rose Arroyo Grande Valley Review Date - 7/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry rosé wine; lovely, bright salmon pink. Aromas of fresh delicate flowers and red . fruits--strawberry especially. On the palate, fresh, lively red berry flavors are delicate and nuanced. Good acidity, a persistent small bead, and moderate alcohol. Grape: Pinot Noir. Good value in the genre. Suggested Food Pairings: Very useful for a wide variety of foods. Smoked salmon mousse; crab-and-red pepper dip; slightly spicy shrimp dip; soft-shell crabs coated in curry-accented flour and sautéed; Asian-inspired (but not too spicy) dim sum; sautéed crab cakes, grilled shrimp or scallops with spicy rémoulade. Georgia Distributor: Empire Distributing $25.00 Louis Picamelot Crémant de Bourgogne Review Date - 7/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied off-dry sparkling rosé; very pretty medium salmon pink. Slight candied apple aroma, with hints of citrus zest; on the palate a sweet red fruit character--red cherry, strawberry-- with good acidity balancing the sweetness. Finish is long, clean and crisp, with fruit and acidity marching in lockstep to the close. Small, persistent bubbles. Winery is located in Rully, in France's Burgundy region, but owns only a single hectare of vines. Grapes: Pinot Noir and Gamay noir à jus blanc. Suggested Food Pairings: Perfect for slightly spicy fare: spicy shrimp dip; crab and red pepper spread; grilled pancetta- or prosciutto-wrapped scallops or shrimp with spicy rémoulade sauce; dim sum; teriyaki skewers; smoked or cured salmon; chicken and mango salad; ham croquetas; taquitos; mild jerked chicken; blackened dishes. No caviar with this one, please. Georgia Distributor: Gusto Brands $28.00 2006 Ramón Ramos Monte Toro Rosado Review Date - 7/1/2008 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry rosé wine with a bright, pink-edged light red color. A rather shy but clean aroma suggests spicy candled apple with a touch of cinnamon; sweet red fruits fill out the palate, which culminates in a long, clean dry but fruit-driven finish. Very satisfying from start to end. Grape type: 100% Garnacha. In 1994 when I first visited Toro, nobody wanted to talk about or show their rosados, even though they had them. Today, it's another story. Moderate alcohol: 12.5%. Nice value. Suggested Food Pairings: Spicy fare: Spanish serrano ham; pepper-crusted salamis and other cured meats; cured salmon or lox; grilled ham and cheese sandwiches with mustard; vegetable-stuffed stromboli or double-crust pizza; grilled spicy sausages (such as linguiça); chicken salad with mango and red pepper, blackened anything (salmon's nice); muffaletta; chicken baked in tomato sauce. Georgia Distributor: LaFayette Selections $12.00 2006 Casita Mami Rosado Navarra Review Date - 7/1/2008 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Full-bodied very slightly off-dry rosé wine; deep reddish pink. Rather shy aromas suggest red fruits, but a more robust palate bring fleshy raspberry and strawberry characters into focus with some spice. With some time in the glass, the wine evolves a fine, complex character. The importer, Grape type: Garnacha. Navarra is part of the Basque country in north central Spain.The imorter, Romery & Miller, has created this brand, Casita Mami, for use in the U.S. Suggested Food Pairings: Likes spice: Slightly spicy chicken wings; barbecue (ribs); smoked meats; Serrano ham; grilled ham steak; spicy grilled sausages (linguiça or andouille); pasta salads with creamy garlicky dressing (Whole Foods); fried or roast chicken; chicken baked in tomato sauce; teriyaki. Probably also good with paella. Georgia Distributor: LaFayette Selections $13.00 2007 Weingut Tegernseerhof Tegernseerhof Rose Zweigelt Review Date - 7/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry rosé wine; lovely red salmon color. Delicate aromas of red fruits with a slightly earthy/smoky note. More intense red fruit flavors, with good acidity, slight rhubarb note, leading to a dry, persistent finish. Rich, complex mid-palate. Opens beautifully in the glass. Mouthwatering. Just 12% alc. Grape: Zwigelt, a crossing of Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. Done as a saignée. Winery is historic property with a long, family-connected history. Suggested Food Pairings: For food pairing, treat like a white wine, and serve with delicate fare (avoid the spice): crab-red pepper spread; rotisserie-cooked or roast chicken; grilled fish; roast pork tenderloin; shrimp-stuffed tomatoes; light hors d'oeuvres such as chicken or ham croquetas; taquitos; mildly seasoned Asian fare (teriyaki skewers; dim sum). Georgia Distributor: Hemispheres $15.00 Montelvini Monvin Regandino Review Date - 7/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Light-bodied dry rosé wine (just .1 RS), with a lovely deep rose color. Aromas go to the red fruits--strawberry, red raspberry and watermelon--with similar flavors on the palate. Decent acidity (5.3) and moderate alcohol (11.5%), making it ideal for summer's heat. Surprising complexity, with the tiniest hint of candied apple, a long finish, lovely fruit. Slight pétillance. Grape types: Merlot (30%) and Prosecco (70%). Armando Serena established the winery in 1969. 30 ha (about (about 74 acres) are organically farmed and so certified. Seems to open in the glass as the wine warms just a bit, developing a lovely roundness. Suggested Food Pairings: An ideal appetizer wine: smoked salmon terrine; seafood fritters or croquets; pimento cheese; grilled mildly spicy sausages (linguiça, for instance); salami and deli meats; grilled ham-and-cheese sandwiches, wraps, red beans and rice with andouille, Carolina perloo with sausage; muffaletta, panini. Georgia Distributor: Peach State Wine & Spirits $17.00 2005 McClean Vineyards Rosé of Syrah Paso Robles Review Date - 7/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry rosé; medium deep translucent red. Aromas of fresh crushed berrie6 and red cherries; on the palate, red and black currants, some spice, and a long fruit-filled finish. Delicious, fruit-filled mid palate. Intense, although somewhat monochromatic. Silky, sensuous texture. Still lively despite being three years out of vintage. Fairly full-bodied, rich foods. Smoked liverwurst and other smoked meats; spicy shrimp dip; grilled ham steak; roast or grilled duck; lamb chop lollipops; composed meat salads; beef or pork kabobs; barbecued pork ribs with mild, medium-bodied tomato-based sauce; pulled pork barbecue. Gusto Brands $20.00 2006 Colonial Estate Barossa Valley Grenache Rosé Enchanteur Review Date - 7/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: A medium-bodied dry ros/; medium, translucent reddish pink. Lovely aromas of red fruits with a a hint of lead pencil. On the palate, fresh red fruit flavors lead with a silky texture, a suggestion of tannin and a long finish. High alcohol (14%) shows just a notch. Wine opens nicely in about a half hour, rapidly gaining depth and complexity. .Grape: 100% Grenache. Saignée made during the initial maceration prior to fermentation to concentrate a red wine (Emigré) the winery produces...Grapes are handpicked, and the juice is fermented with a Beaujolais yeast. Suggested Food Pairings: Delicately seasoned foods (skip the spice); Smoked salmon terrine; lox or other cured salmon; salad of farro (a grain), feta cheese; grape tomatoes, Niçoise olives; chicken and mango salad; vegetable-filled stromboli (singularly good); roast or rotisserie chicken; seafood dishes, such as ;crawfish cakes; pancetta-wrapped grilled shrimp or scallops. Georgia Distibutor: Northeast Wholesale $20.00 2007 Chateau Mourgues du Gres Costieres de Nimes Les Galets Roses Review Date - 7/1/2008 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry rosé wine; lively lovely medium reddish pink. Intense aromas of red fruits and fresh apricots, while on the palate, red fruits and spice meld and acquire a touch of candied apple in the finish. Simply, one of the most delicious rosés anywhere, and a longtime personal favorite. Intense. Hard to find a rosé more complex, more delicious or more compelling. Good acidity, balance and length. Grapes: Basically Syrah, with some Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre. Costières de Nîmes was formerly part of Languedoc-Roussillon declared A.O.C. in 1986 and changed name in 1989. Attached to the Rhône by growers' petition (1998) in 2004. Suggested Food Pairings: Spicy shrimp dip; lox or other cured salmon, chicken wings; Country Captain; chicken baked in tomato sauce; grilled spicy sausages (linguia); red beans and rice with andouille; crawfish salad or étouffé (not too hot spicy); paella; grilled, rotisserie or fried chicken; shrimp-stuffed tomatoes. Georgia Distributor: Unique World Wines $17.00 2007 Marchesi di Gresy Moscato d'Asti La Serra Review Date - 6/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied slightly sweet white wine; very pale straw. Refreshing light floral perfume, with hints of citrus blossoms. Fresh fruits of all sorts on the palate, namely pear, pear apple, with a clean, crisp finish. Sweet in a fresh fruit manner but not at all cloying. Refreshing, palate awakening, and lively. Slightly spritzy. La Serra is a vineyard planted chiefly to Moscato. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF (13ºC) in small tulip-shaped flutes or glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Fresh fruits, especially strawberries and other seasonal berries; cheesecake; egg custard, custard pie, fruit tarts, soft, mild cheeses (Mascarpone), banana cream pie, simple cookies, all by itself as dessert. Atlanta Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $15.00 2005 Schloss Schonborn Riesling Kabinett Rheingau Erbacher Marcobrunn Review Date - 6/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied slightly off-dry white wine; pale lemon yellow with greenish highlights. Intense aromas of citrus peel (kumquat, tangerine) with a palate focused on fleshy pear, green apple and nectarine. Complex and juicy, with a long, crisp finish and a note of sweet Fuji or Gala apple in the close. Beautiful solo sipper, and beautiful with food. Alcohol: 10%. Owned by the von Schönborn family since 1349, the operation controls more than 185 acres, making it the largest privately held estate in the Rheingau. Located in Hattenheim, its vineyards are planted with more than 85% Riesling. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF (13ºC) in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: What versatility! Smoked salmon and smoked salmon mousse; smoked whitefish; grilled sausages and sauerkraut; braised pork or roast pork loin, roast veal, dishes such as veal chops or chicken breast with cream sauce, sautéed pork steaks with cream and mustard; sockeye salmon steak, grilled halibut with mustard and crumbs or poached in beer and served with a mustard Béchamel sauce. Also all manner of Asian food. Atlanta Distributor: Northeast Wholesale $25.00 2006 Yangarra Estate Grenache McLaren Vale Old Vine Review Date - 6/1/2008 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; translucent dark cherry red color. Aromas of spice and dark fruits, with supremely complex flavors that reprise the spice and dark fruit aromas, but adding a slight dried fruits character. Complex, persistently interesting. Elegant, with easy fruit-focused tannins. Amazing given the alcohol (15%), proving again you can't go by the numbers. Best to cool slightly, to about 60-65ºF (15-18ºC). Suggested Food Pairings: Loves food: Smoked liverwurst; grilled chicken kabobs with onions and peppers; grilled chicken/apple sausages; Asian-influenced meat dishes; barbecue; braised pork (brine first) with caramelized onions; grilled lamb or ham steak; roasted vegetables with goat cheese; grilled, Bourbon marinated butterflied boneless leg of lamb, roasted or grilled duck with a sprinkling of five-spice powder. Atlanta Distributor: United Distributors $25.00 2004 Mischa Estate Shiraz Wellington Review Date - 6/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; opaque dark purple red. Aromas of red fruits with some spice, but on the palate the red fruits bloom, with good acidity and richness, yet nothing is over the top. Supple tannins, evident but not aggressive, making the wine perfect with rich foods. Lovely integration of all components. Balanced, sure-footed and restrained. Delicious. A John Platter four star in the 2007 guide. Serve at cool temperatures, about 65ºF (17ºC0 in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Pasta with mushrooms; rough-textured terrines; her- or pepper-coated salamis; smoked chicken (Fox Bros. BBQ) with (or may be best without) white barbecue sauce; braised chuck roast of beef cooked in beef stock and seasonings; sausage lasagne; big beef rib smoked with medium-bodied, not-too-tomato-y sauce. Do a South African braai for this one. Not a good cheese wine, but wonderful with moderately high cacao (about 55%) dark chocolate. Atlanta Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $25.00 2004 Clos Troteligotte Cahors CQFD Review Date - 6/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; opaque inky ruby red. Beautiful, complex, and ever-evolving aromas of aromatic brown spices initially, then fresh cured tobacco, dark fruits, a hint of soy. Deep, sweet dark fruit flavors, with soft tannins. In French oak 12 months, but the oak doesn't run (or ruin) the fruit. Beautifully balanced. Just 13% alcohol. Grape: Malbec 100%. One of the classic Bordeaux grapes, Malbec also is a mainstay for Cahors, which offers some of France's loveliest scenery in addition to interesting wines. The late music director and conductor emeritus of the Atlanta Symphony Orchestra, Robert Shaw, was said to have been a serious fan of Cahors (the region and the wine). Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst and other smoked meats; coarse-textured meat terrines (pàté forrestier with mushrooms); meat-filled raviolis with butter and grated Parmesan cheese; oven- or wood-roasted spice-rubbed pork sirloin; wood-roasted dark meat turkey or duck; aged semi-soft cheeses, such as Zamorano. Atlanta Distributor: Peach State Wine & Spirits $42.00 2004 Prevail West Face Alexander Valley Review Date - 6/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Big, full-bodied but balanced dry red wine; medium deep purple ry red. Aromas and flavors focus on forward fruit, with black currant (cassis) and black plum leading. Aromas pick up a scent of flowers, and flavors focus on the delicious fruit without adding much to the mix. Fairly straightforward. A "guy wine" that even the gals will like for its balance, so they probably won't complain that it's "too thick," (that's "girl" speak for over-the-top, alcoholic, over-extracted powerhouse wines that lack finesse). Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon & Syrah. Serve cool, about 60-65F (15-18ºC) as the alcohol is a bit high, although the finish isn't "hot." Use large tulip-shaped Bordeaux-style glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Likes braised meats rather than grilled, so pork butt (brine first) braised with caramelized onions and garlic; roast leg of lamb; steak with blue cheese sauce; roast duck; grilled lamb steak, creamy blue cheeses (melt some to go on a steak, too), and dark chocolate. Atlanta Distributor: Georgia Crown $65.00 2004 Domaine des Creisses Les Brunes Review Date - 6/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; inky dark ruby red. Aromas of dark chocolate and dark fruits; on the palate, plums and black currants are supported by firm but fruit-sweet tannins. Texture reveals lack of filtration. Hefty alcohol, 14.5%, but only a little heat in the finish, which rich foods will round off. .Substantial, with plenty of heft, but not overwhelming. Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) and Syrah (20%). Serve cool, about 60ºF (15 ºC) in generous-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Rough-textured terrines coated with aspic; herb-coated salamis and other cured meats pasta filled with veal and sage and topped with melted butter and grated Parmesan cheese, grilled meats, leg of lamb (skip the mint thing and leave it just pink); barbecued Bourbon-marinated leg of lamb, firm aged cheeses. Atlanta Distributor: Peach State Wine & Spirits $52.00 2005 Silver Webs Merlot Adelaide Hills Review Date - 6/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; fairly deep inky red. Aromas of white pepper (curiously), but then red fruits emerge, and you get a whiff of strawberry and red raspberry. Dark fruits (plums) dominate flavors with a finish reminiscent of malted milk balls. Nice balance. Very silky, fruit-derived tannins. Just a smidge of heat in the finish, but not much; certainly nothing rich foods can’t handle. A bit dumb when first opened; so decant several hours ahead of serving at cool, room temperature [65ºF (18ºC)] in large tulip-shaped glasses. A potential long-term keeper. Still tasty several days after being opened. Just south of the city of Adelaide, the Adelaide Hills produces excellent wines. This is a Merlot specialist. Miles would like this one. Owners Jan and John Smeaton live in Athens, GA, but fly home each season to work the harvest. Suggested Food Pairings: Roast duck or Cornish hen with black currant red wine glaze; smoked pork, grilled lamb chop or lamb steak; roast pork tenderloin with dark dried fruit and Vidalia onion stuffing; mild curries, Roaring ‘40s blue (King Island, Australia) or creamy blues, caramel-filled milk chocolate or medium-high (about 55%) dark chocolate. Atlanta Distributor: Linda Allison Selections $20.00 2004 Thomas Fogarty Winery Lexington Meritage Santa Cruz Mountains Review Date - 6/1/2008 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep dark purple red. Aromas of sweet, cured tobacco; flavors kick in with black currant and other sweet dark fruits. Compelling, complex, rich. Firm fruit tannins. Very long finish. Grapes: Merlot; Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Lasts like crazy after being opened. Very likely a long-term keeper. Suggest decanting several hours before serving at cool room temperature, about 65ºF (18ºC), in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Spicy salami; smoked liverwurst; roasted duck or Cornish hen brushed with black currant jam thinned with some of the wine; braised and grilled meats; firm, aged cheeses, dark chocolate. Atlanta Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $45.00 2002 Alpha Domus The Navigator Hawkes Bay Review Date - 6/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; garnet red. .Aromatics favor an almost Bordeaux character, with leather and sweet tobacco notes emerging from the dark fruit characters. On the palate, dark plum and black currant flavors. Very silky tannins. Bordeaux-like--fruit flavors quite evolved. Alcohol: 13.5%. A classic Bordeaux blend: Merlot (43%), Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Cabernet Franc (11%) and Malbec (10%.). Varieties were fermented and aged separately for 12 months in mostly French oak Then blended and matured another six months in oak. Winery suggests it will cellar well until 2010. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65ºF (18ºC ), and use a tall tulip-shaped Bordeaux glass. Suggested Food Pairings: Rough-textured liver and mushroom terrines; smoked baby back ribs, beef ribs, beef brisket, chicken with either mildly tangy tomato-based sauce or slightly spicy white barbecues sauce; grilled meats; sausage. Not good with sausage Doesn't seem to like either cheeses or chocolate. Atlanta Distributor: Grapefields $24.00 2006 Vina Robles Winery Red 4 Huerhuero Paso Robles Review Date - 6/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep but translucent dark ruby red. Aromas start off with a slight caramel oak, suggesting the use of some American oak. On the palate, big chocolate-coated cherries lead to dark fruit flavors--plums especially--and black cherry. Fruit is sweet and tannins are soft. A clean, long finish ends with another suggestion of dark chocolate cherry. Grape types: Petite Sirah 53%; Syrah 38%; Tannat 7% and Touriga 2%. Alcohol (14.2%) shows just a mite, so be very sure to serve cool, about 65ºF (17ºC), in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Very fine value. Suggested Food Pairings: Southern pork barbecue with mildly spicy tomato-based, medium-bodied sauce; smoked chicken with white barbecue sauce; smoked beef brisket with either sauce (all from Fox Bros BBQ), roast duck game, grilled red meats, grilled chicken with black bean salsa; blue cheese, dark chocolate (mole poblano?) Atlanta Distributor: Ultimate Distributors $16.00 2006 J Vineyards Pinot Gris Russian River Valley Review Date - 6/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied slightly off-dry white wine (but showing luscious fruit sweetness); medium gold. Aromatic white fruit characters, pear, Asian pear/apple, exotic apples (Fuji, Gala, Golden Delicious), with flavors that move seamlessly from the aromas. Lemon drop and honey notes in the finish. Just delicious. Stainless steel, but still voluptuous as opposed to edgy or racy. Serve moderately cool, roughly 50ºF (10ºC) in tall tulip-shaped glassware. Note: The coming 2007 vintage is completely different: pale straw; lean; complex; racy acidity; less residual sugar--score 93--and would go with completely different foods with less exotic seasoning. Suggested Food Pairings: Needs spice and exotic flavors: chicken on rice or noodles with a a creamy curry-sauce; curried chicken salad with raisins; Country Captain (but leave out the tomato); Chinese dishes with seafood, chicken or pork; brined and braised pork butt with caramelized onions; grilled chicken 0aooke sausage with caramelized onions and mashed potatoes; grilled chicken salad with mango and other fresh fruits; grilled bacon-wrapped scallops with mustard mayonnaise; honey-ginger pork kabobs. Atlanta Distributor: National Distributing Co. $25.00 2006 Buoncristiani Rosato Napa Valley Review Date - 5/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Medium- to full-bodied dry rosé; lovely deep reddish pink color. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry and red cherry; sweet fruit flavors with good spice, a bit of bramble and a long, fruit-filled finish. Bone dry, but stuffed with plenty of fruit.. Grape type: Syrah. Fermentation 40% in stainless steel; 60% in neutral French oak. This operation is the work of four brothers, and this is their fourth season of producing this rosato. Suggested Food Pairings: Salmon with vodka cream sauce; salmon cake with sweet red pepper; blackened salmon; grilled salmon steak with red fruit chutney; tamarind-glazed salmon; barbecued salmon (or chicken or ribs for that matter). Other stuff: crab mousse with red pepper. Georgia Distributor Hemispheres $20.00 2005 Brandborg Pinot Gris Umpqua Valley Review Date - 5/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium pale yellow. Gentle aromas of peach and yellow stone fruits; peach, nectarine, and even a touch of strawberry in the fruit profile on the palate. Altogether a delightful wine. Long, fruit-filled finish. A bit of heat emerges in the finish, but rich foods diminish that sensation. Suggested Food Pairings: Baked salmon with a peach/pear chutney; tequila-cured herbed salmon with crème fraîche; baked salmon stuffed with crabmeat; baked or grilled salmon with mango chutney or salsa; tamarind-glazed grilled salmon. Other stuff: chilled green garlic soup. Georgia Distributor Sommelier Direct $16.00 1999 Schramsberg Vineyards J. Schram Napa-Monterey-Mendocino Counties Review Date - 5/1/2008 Score - 96 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry sparkling white wine; medium gold. Yeasty, rich, bready aromas are followed by rich, complex, white-fruit flavors. Long, crisp finish. Good acidity. On the lees for six years yields richness and complexity. Grape type: Chardonnay. Harvested from Napa Valley and the Central Coast. Serve at about 50 degrees (some might like it colder, but no more than 45 degrees) in tulip-shaped flutes. Suggested Food Pairings: Salmon (or other seafood) bisque topped with crème fraîche and a dab of ikura (salmon caviar); salmon caviar on lightly salted potato chips, water crackers or half-dollar sized blini, optional crème fraîche and minced chives; cocktail-sized potatoes stuffed with smoked salmon and chives; tequila-and-herb cured wild sockeye salmon; California rolls with salmon; salmon and herb (or other seafood) mousses; sushi and sashimi. Also mild creamy cheeses, such as Délice de Bourgogne, Mascarpone. Georgia Distributor Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $95.00 2005 Hugel Pinot Blanc Alsace Cuvee Les Amours Review Date - 5/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; very pale yellow. Aromas of yellow stone fruits with a hint of fennel seed, a character that extends to the dynamic fruit flavors, which offer pear and melon. Citrus notes. Rich, silky textured yet fresh tasting and zingy with good acidity. Pinot Blanc is a major grape type for Alsace. The 2005 vintage throughout Europe is one of the best in decades. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked salmon mousse; gently smoked salmon; fresh salmon baked with lemon, herbs and butter; tequila-cured salmon, crab-stuffed salmon pinwheels; cold poached salmon with homemade mayonnaise; butter-baked Atlantic salmon, medium rare. Other stuff: scallops; roast pork, crab mousse; frogs' legse, oysters, mascarpone; Délice de Bourgogne; or other mild, creamy cheese. Georgia Distributor National Distributing Co. $19.00 2007 Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco Alto Adige Review Date - 5/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Light- medium-bodied dry white wine; very pale straw. Fresh aromas of green apple, slight hint of crushed aromatic seed spices (fennel seed, coriander); crisp green apple flavors and the same aromatic characters. Silky mouthfeel yet bracing acidity. Long, crisp finish. Mouthwatering. Suggested Food Pairings: Moderately chilled, about 55ºF (17ºC) in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Great value. Tequila-and-herb-cured salmon (really good); Caesar salad with grilled salmon; poached salmon and seafood sausages with beurre blanc, salmon crêpes; poached chilled salmon with herbed mayonnaise; baked crab-stuffed salmon. Other stuff: warm green garlic cream soup; crab cakes. Georgia Distributor Quality Wine & Spirits $13.00 2006 Shaky Bridge Shaky Bridge Pinot Gris Cental Otago Review Date - 5/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry white wine; medium pale copper. Aromas of white stone fruits and white melon; peach-melon-nectarine flavors are rich, round and mouth-filling, with complexity and a lively, acid-backed finish. Silky texture. Just so delicious, you want to drink it forever. This one really doesn’t like being over-chilled. Pinot Blanc from New Zealand is a scarce commodity, so it's nice to have another one from there as in my humble view it does really well in Kiwi land. Enjoy this as the 2007 is sold out already at the winery. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked salmon-dill mousse; baked salmon with lemon-herb butter; chilled poached salmon with a mild curry aioli; salmon crêpes; herbed salmon burgers; salmon in vodka cream tomato sauce on linguini; smoked trout; salmon cooked in parchment with bok choy, minced fresh ginger, sesame oil and mirin. Georgia Distributor Avant Partir $20.00 2004 Bush Bike Riesling Western Australia Review Date - 5/1/2008 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium pale greenish straw. Aromas and flavors of lime, lemongrass and that characteristic fusil-oil note frequent in Riesling. Touch of the taste of honey in the finish. Silky texture. Fruit balanced by good acidity. Rich finish. Develops slowly in the glass. Alc.: 12.5% All stainless steel. These Riesling grapes come from vineyards near the Munda Biddi trail. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked salmon mousse with herbs; salmon cooked in parchment paper with bok choy, minced fresh ginger, sesame oil and mirin; salmon baked with bread crumbs and whole-grain mustard, cold poached (or baked) medium rare salmon with mustard cream; wild sockeye salmon salad (Whole Foods). Georgia Distributor All American Distributing (f/k/a Bibb Distributing) $15.00 2004 Guyot Côtes du Rhône Villages Blanc L'Envol Review Date - 5/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry white wine; medium gold. Aromas of crushed aromatic seeds—fennel; cardamom, coriander—with sweet, fleshy white fruits on the palate. Rich yet elegant. Given the bottle aging its gotten since release, it’s acquired depth and complexity. Intriguing. Not an aperitif wine; best with serious food. Silky textured. Grapes: Viognier 80%; Roussanne 20%. Suggested Food Pairings: Keep the chill factor to a minimum, about 55ºF (17ºC).Sushi; salmon or lobster chowder; tequila-cured salmon with fresh herbs (really good); barbecued trout; baked trout coated in pecan breadcrumb crust; salmon with vodka cream sauce on linguine; poached chilled salmon with cucumber salsa (Whole Foods); baked or grilled salmon with sorrel sauce (smashing!) Georgia Distributor La Fayette Selections $22.00 2005 Staete Landt Pinot Noir Marlborough Review Date - 5/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium dark cherry red. Initial smoky aromas segue into aromas of dried herb and dark cherry, wonderfully integrated. On the palate, dried herb-infused dark fruits. Suggestion of dried cranberry. Soft tannins, well integrated with fruit. Finish concludes with sweet fruit and dried herb. Beautifully balanced. Staete Landt was the name Abel Tasman, a Dutch explorer, gave to New Zealand. Suggested Food Pairings: Simple grilled salmon; barbecued salmon; blackened salmon; grilled or baked salmon with beurre rouge; blackened salmon.. Other stuff: roast chicken, Cornish hen or turkey; mild, creamy cheeses, such as Delice de Bourgogne, creamy mild blue cheeses such as Fourme d’Ambert. Georgia Distributor Grapefields $25.00 2007 Pewsey Vale Riesling Eden Valley Review Date - 5/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium-pale yellow. Aromas capture citrus peel and sweet white fruits; delectable white melon and pear fruit with aromatic sweet spices grace the palate. Silky texture and a crisp, long finish. Alc.: 13%. The Pewsey Vale vineyard has clocked more than a century and a half in Eden Valley. Winery suggests it will cellar through 2012, but to do so keep it at a constant 55ºF (12ºF). Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked salmon; salmon-focused sushi and California rolls; pecan-crusted trout; barbecued trout; ginger with salmon and cucumber salsa (Whole Foods); pizza with smoked salmon, cream cheese and thinly sliced sweet red onion; salmon cooked in parchment paper with Asian seasonings and julienned vegetables. Georgia Distributor Empire Distributing $20.00 2005 Groote Post Chardonnay Darling Unwooded Review Date - 5/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied very slightly off-dry white wine; very pale yellow. Clean, enticing aromas of pear and white melon; tiny note of canned peas; flavors capture some sweet aromatic spices, blending them into the lovely white fruits. Silky texture and crisp finish. So who says unwooded Chardonnay's can't last a few years? I can think of some oaked ones that didn't make it this long. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked salmon mousse with dill; salmon with vodka cream sauce on pasta; grilled medium rare salmon with sorrel sauce (really good); baked wild sockeye salmon with minced fresh green garlic and fresh tarragon; chilled poached (or baked) salmon with cucumber salsa (Whole Foods); wild salmon salad (Whole Foods). Georgia Distributor National Distributing Co. $14.00 2007 Grosset Riesling Clare Valley Polish Hill Review Date - 5/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; very pale yellow. Aromas are classic Riesling without the fusil-oil character: On the nose and palate, pear and sweet yellow apple with a crisp conclusion. Lime and lime leaf characters. Well structured. Minerals galore. Finish nearly never quits. This was a tough vintage in Australia, beginning with bad spring frosts and suffering high temperatures in summer. But winemaker Jeffrey Grosset is a master of the grape. Suggested Food Pairings: Salmon-centered sushi; tequila-cured salmon with herbs; salmon tartare with soy, ginger, sesame oil dressing; pecan-crusted baked rainbow trout or steelhead trout; baked salmon baked with mustard-cream sauce; wild sockeye salmon baked with butter, olive oil and a mix fresh green garlic and fresh tarragon. Georgia Distributor Northeast Wholesale $40.00 2007 Frankland Dry Riesling Frankland River Rocky Gully Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; very pale straw. Slightly diesel-y aromatics, with touches of apple and pear; peachy on the palate. Crisp, dry finish. Stellar work. Initially tight and scrawny, so needs time to open in the glass. Then it blooms. Likely good near-term keeper if well cellared. Be careful not to overchill, keeping it at about 55ºF (12ºC), and serve in a tall tulip-shaped glass. Due in market this month. Suggested Food Pairings: Thai coconut chicken (Whole Foods); New Zealand green lip mussels or any mild fish in a light Thai curry; Carolina-style barbecue; chicken pot pie; roast herbed turkey breast; Asian chicken and seafood dishes (but not too spicy); bacon-wrapped grilled shrimp or garlic grilled shrimp; pecan-crusted baked flounder or sole; cous cous salad with dates and chickpeas and fennel apple salad, (DeKalb Farmers Market) Georgia Distributor: Northeast Wholesale Distributing $15.00 2007 Bremerton Verdelho Langhorne Creek Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; bright very pale straw. Delicate scent of citrus blossoms, hint of grapefruit; palate of a basket of tropical fruits, from grapefruit to banana. Rather rich, mineral-influenced mid palate; silky texture. Well balanced. A pleasure by itself or with food. Serve at about 50ºF (10ºC). Suggested Food Pairings: She-crab soup, green olive-flecked goat cheese; lightly curried chicken salad; tarragon chicken or shrimp salad; French poulet â l’estragon; Thai-style coconut chicken (Whole Foods); bacon-wrapped grilled scallops with mustard mayonnaise;.pecan-crusted flounder or sole. The surprise: salmon caviar (ikura) with a dab of crème fraîche or crema agria on a lightly salted potato chip. Georgia Distributor: Hemispheres $18.00 2005 Pike's Red Mullet Clare Valley Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; dark cherry red. Complex aromas of spice, dark fruits; slight dried herb emerges after an hour or so. On the palate, sweet dark fruits (plums and black berries). Very soft tannins. Long, clean finish. A virtual fruit salad: Shiraz (76%); Mourvèdre (9%); Tempranillo (8%); Grenache (7%).Most rewarding if served at cool room temperatures, 60-65ºF (15-1ºC) in medium-sized tall tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Curried (mild) legumes; smoked meats; simple pizza; wraps and sandwiches; muffaletta; grilled Italian sausage; chicken thighs baked in tomato sauce; roast turkey; roast pork tenderloin; roast chicken with garlic and rosemary. Georgia Distributor: Northeast Wholesale $16.00 2006 Oakridge Sauvignon Blanc Yarra Valley Over The Shoulder Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; very pale straw. Lovely citrus fresh herbal scent, with passion fruit, gooseberry and other exotic fruits on the palate. A flinty, lively minerality informs the mid-palate and finish. Good acidity, with a long, crisp, clean finish. Moderate alcohol, 13%, helps its ability to pair with a wide range of foods. Spends seven months in French oak. Serve moderately chilled, about 50ºF (10ºC). Great value. Suggested Food Pairings: Cornmeal-fried oysters with (or without) tartar sauce; apple-fennel salad; ravioli stuffed with feta cheese and lives, and sauced with unsalted butter and Parmesan cheese; cous cous salad with dates; tortellini salad with mozzarella; Thai shrimp salad with lemongrass; Vietnamese green papaya salad with shrimp or chicken; simple grilled scallops o sautéed flounder with herbed tartar sauce; garlic shrimp; Carolina barbecue with vinegar-based sauce. Georgia Distributor: United Distributors $14.00 2004 Koltz GSM McLaren Vale Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; medium dark ruby red. Aromas show the classic peppermint patty mintiness of many Australian reds--perhaps thanks to the presence of the nearly ubiquitous sweet gum tree--then luscious, sweet dark berry fruit. Alcohol is 14.5, but doesn't show much heat, just a tiny bit at the very end of the finish. Grapes: Grenache, 50%; Shiraz 40%; Mourvèdre, 10%. So, a GSM. Founded in 1996, Koltz is a small, artisan producer specializing in Shiraz and Shiraz blends from McLaren Vale. Wines are hand crafted, fermented in open vats then, when dry, basket pressed and put into barrel. Serve moderately cool, about 60ºF (15ºC). Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked liverwurst pâté; smoked pork ribs (no sweet barbecue sauces, though, or any other sweet finishes); grilled center-cut pork chop with red pepper relish; grilled lamb, grilled steak or lamb, Roaring '40s blue (from Australia; at Whole Foods); fairly dark chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Georgia Crown $25.00 2004 Colonial Estate Shiraz Barossa Valley Explorateur Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; medium deep dark purple red. Beautiful aromatics, with an initial hit of musky animal character, identifying it clearly as Shiraz. Then very Rhône-style flavors with balanced fruit, tannin and acid. Deep, rich, powerful but elegant. An excellent intersection of “Old” and “New” World characters. Be sure to decant this one several hours ahead of serving at cool room temperatures, about 60-65ºF or 15-1ºC. Suggested Food Pairings: Spicy hard salamis; smoked liverwurst (Patak); roast duck brushed with black currant jam thinned with some of the wine; roast pork with chipotle honey glaze; curried chickepeas or other legumes and vegetables; other mild curries; grilled Italian sausage and other grilled meats, Roaring ‘40s blue cheese (King Island, Australia); chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Northeast Wholesale $26.00 2005 Schild Semillon Barossa Unwooded Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; very pale straw. Very clean, pure fruit scent, with pear and a touch of fresh herbs. Clean, lemongrass-accented fruit flavors with nice minerality—a lovely stony chalkiness. Crisp, acid-backed, long finish. No oak. Classic. Serve moderately chilled, about 50ºF (10ºC). Suggested Food Pairings: Crispy cornmeal-fried oysters with rémoulade sauce; feta cheese-olive-stuffed ravioli with butter and Parmesan cheese; green olives; goat cheese; baked pistachio-crusted sea bass or other mild fish; curried chickpeas; tarragon chicken or tarragon chicken salad. Georgia Distributor: Ultimate Distributors $16.00 2007 Stanley Lambert Wines Chardonnay Barossa Valley A Thousand Words Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; very pale slightly greenish straw. Tropical fruit aromas, a bit of pineapple, slight touch of tangerine peel; complex, clean and vibrant. Lively acidity. On the lees eight weeks; following six weeks of cold fermentation. Very gentle Limousn (French) oak. Lovely. Serve moderately cold, about 50ºF (10ºF) in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken pot pie; grilled bacon-wrapped scallops or shrimp; cream- or butter-sauced pastas; herbed roasted turkey breast; tarragon chicken or tarragon chicken/almond salad; green olive tepanade; herbed roast chicken; apple-and-herb (but not sage) stuffed roast pork loin or pork tenderloin. Not a good fin fish wine. Georgia Distributor: All American (a/k/a Bibb Distributing) $17.00 2004 Fonty's Pool Pinot Noir Pemberton Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; limpid medium cherry red color. Slight aromatic spice, leather, dried herb; savory flavors sport some red cherry then dried herb closes the long finish. Easy tannins. Classic Down Under style of Pinot Noir. It's good to have an opportunity to taste this one with a little bottle age on it and having had it well cellared as it shows a delightful complexity. Serve moderately cool, about 60ºF (15ºC) in Burgundy glasses (large round or bowl-shaped). Suggested Food Pairings: Pâté of foie gras; roast duck with black currant/red wine glaze; grilled Italian sausage or lamb steak; feathered game; any roasted light meat, such as chicken, pork tenderloin or pork loin; wraps or sandwiches with deli meats, such as salami and ham;; caramel-filled milk chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Ultimate Distributors $19.00 Rutherglen Estates Muscat Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 95 Tasting Note: Full-bodied sweet red wine; light mahogany red color. Complex aromas of toffee, roasted nuts, dried fruits, caramel. Sweet flavors back up the toffee and dried fruit characters Residual sugar: 22.5g/l; alc. 17%. As the Aussies like to say, “A nice drop.” Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF (12ºC) in small tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Fig torta, creamy blue cheeses; cheese cake with white chocolate and an Oreo-cookie base (The Clubhouse); turtle cheesecake; strawberries with crème anglaise or sabayon; caramel-filled milk chocolate or plain milk chocolate; firm, aged cheeses. Georgia Distributor: Northeast Wholesale $25.00 Taltarni Brut Victoria-Tasmania Taché NV Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Full bodied dry sparkling wine; medium pale pink salmon color. Aromas of raspberries and cherries, crisp, clean fruit flavors, with some red fruit notes. A certain creaminess, but with good acidity for a crisp finish. Seems to open and develop in the glass. "Taché" means "stained" in French, alluding to the method of adding red wine liqueur to the tirage when the wine is disgorged. Fermented in the bottle and matured for 18 months minimum. Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Serve well-chilled, about 45ºF (7ºC), in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Excellent value. Keeps well. The last glasses enjoyed a week after initial opening were just as lively as when the bottle was first opened. Suggested Food Pairings: Salmon caviar on lightly salted potato chips or enfolded into blini (no sour cream); pâté of foie gras; Savannah-style (lighter bodied) she-crab soup; not-too-spicy gumbo with seafood and chicken; steak tartare; crisp cornmeal-fried oysters with rémoulade sauce, Asian-influenced cuisine. Georgia Distributor: Empire Distributing $22.00 2006 Yering Station Chardonnay Yarra Valley Nell Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 86 Tasting Note: Light- to medium-bodied dry white wine; very pale straw. Very clean, delicate scent of apple blossoms; palate shows crisp apple with good acidity and a clean, steely finish. A good sipping Chardonnay. No oak. Drink now. Not a keeper. Serve moderately chilled--overchilled really kills its aromas and flavors--about 55ºF (12ºC)--in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Bacon-wrapped grilled scallops with mustard mayonnaise; grilled garlic shrimp; pecan-crusted sautéed flounder or sole; crab cake or soft-shell crab; cornmeal-dusted fried oysters with either herbed tartar sauce or rémoulade sauce. Georgia Distributor: Unique World Wines $14.00 2007 Torbreck Woodcutters Semillon Review Date - 4/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry white wine; pale straw. Immediate aromas of oak, then with time in the glass white fruit aromas emerge. Flavors again focus on oak, with exotic fruit flavors and in the background pear and melon.. Substantial acidity--perhaps acid-adjusted? The name derives from winemaker David Powell's days in Scotland as a lumberjack in the Torbreck Forest. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF (12ºC), in large tulip-shaped glasses as this is a pretty big wine. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled bacon-wrapped shrimp with or without rémoulade; apple/fennel salad; tortellini salad with mozzarella and olives; pistachio-crusted sea bass; grilled scallops with honey-mustard mayonnaise; curried chickpeas; dishes with assertive seasoning, such as saffron and cumin, so try with paella made with either saffron or pimentón (paprika). Georgia Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $17.00 2004 Wolf Blass Cabernet Sauvignon Langhorne Creek Grey Label Review Date - 3/1/2008 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; very deep inky black purple red. Classic Langhorne Creek aromas of dark fruit touched by a slight eucalyptus/mint character, which intensifies as the wine opens. Deep berry flavors behind the eucalyptus. How much you’ll like this wine will depend on how much you like eucalyptus, but it’s for sure correct Langhorne Creek Cab. Suggested Food Pairings: Collard greens with country ham and roast pork; rice and dried fruits-stuffed pork chop, gamier New Zealand lamb chop; pulled pork barbecue with mild slightly spice sauce (Fox Bros.) firm, rich, aged cheeses; such as year-old sheep’s milk Manchego; cave-aged Gruyère. Georgia Distributor: United Distributors $32.00 2004 Catena Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza Review Date - 3/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium-deep purple red. Somewhat shy initial aromas hint at black currants and black raspberries, then rich, ripe black fruit flavors enhanced by refined, fruit-derived tannins and a silky texture. Vibrant fruit and a hint of spice lead to a long fruit-filled finish. Very well balanced. Nice work. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Complexity comes from 20 months in oak, 80% French; of which 30% was new oak, and 20% new American oak, but the latter does not overwhelm the fruit as it so often can. SErve at cool room temperatures, 60-65ºF (15-1ºC) in large tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Port and gorgonzola-stuffed ravioli with walnuts, butter and chive sauce; peppered liver pâté; roasted pork rib chop or smoked pork ribs; roast chicken, duck or Cornish hen; steak with blue cheese sauce; lamb steak with herbed lamb jus; sweetbreads or kidneys and mushrooms “a la parrilla” (on the grill); rich, creamy blue cheeses (Fourme d’Ambert, for instance). Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wines/NDC $20.00 2005 Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc Sonoma County Review Date - 3/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Medium- full-bodied dry white wine; pale yellow. Delicate, clean scent of fresh white flowers, a little note of citrus peel. Clean, delicious white fruits—melon and a touch of grapefruit—unite in a rich flavor experience. Long, clean, crisp, mouth-watering finish. Wine just loves food, but also drinks very nicely on its own. One of the consistent leaders in the genre. Very gentle oak. Serve just nicely cool, about 60ºF (15ºC); in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Goat cheese; pistachio-herb encrusted scallops, sautéed in olive oil; shrimp sautéed in olive oil, butter and white wine (hold the garlic); frito misto or fried calamari with lemon or herbed aioli (tasted at Medici); tarragon chicken or shrimp salad (a real winner!); veal scaloppini with lemon and very rich buttery mashed potatoes; Thai or Vietnamese-style salads with green papaya, green mango, cilantro and a light Asian-style dressing; crab cakes; King crab legs with lemon butter. Georgia Distributor: Georgia Crown $16.00 2004 Bookwalter Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Review Date - 3/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; medium deep dark cherry red. Initial aromas seem shy, and the wine is tight and closed, but two days later (no kidding) it yields warm aromatic brown spices and intense dark fruits with a raspberry and black currant emphasis. The flavors segue straight into this profile, and the finish, while showing a little heat, is long and satisfying. The texture suggests it has not been filtered. Fruit-derived tannins. This is a must decant for several hours ahead of serving. Like all of our red wines, our 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon is aged exclusively in hand selected, small French oak barrels that are meticulously chosen for their richness and suitability for a particular variety of wine. Aged for 20 months in oak. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled meats, especially lamb; braised meats, such as slow-cooked garlic-studded chuck roast; oxtails or lamb shanks cooked in red wine; roast duck; Thai-style beef salad (make sure its dressing is not too hot); legume dishes with pork; some firm aged cheeses, such as year-old Manchego. Georgia Distributor: Grapefields $32.00 2007 Vina Robles Winery Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles Jardine Review Date - 3/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium- full-bodied dry white wine; pale straw. Aromatic, delicate and delicious scent of almond and melon, with a fairly insistent banana note that emerges as the wine opens. Favors pick up stone fruits (peach and apricot) and white melon. Think honeydew. Ripe, clean, refreshing. Done entirely in stainless steel. Long, crisp finish. More residual sugar than I would have thought (.6); but balanced by good acidity and dead on in the middle ph (3.45). Highish alcohol, but it doesn't disturb the pleasure. Very important not to overchill, so keep it around 50-55ºF (10-15ºC). Suggested Food Pairings: Delicate and simple foods: seafood mousses; oysters with lemon; baked crab-stuffed flounder, or tilapia crab cakes; grilled or sautéed garlic shrimp; creamy tarragon chicken salad (Publix); grilled scallops with rémoulade sauce; fresh clams linguine with fresh herbs; linguine with pesto; fried catfish with tartar sauce. Georgia Distributor: Ultimate Distributors $18.00 2005 Gravitas Wines Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Review Date - 3/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium pale lemon yellow. Aromas are classic NZ: gooseberry; lime zest; flavors hit heavily on tropical fruits (again gooseberry, some passion fruit). Finish is long and fruit-dominated, and good acidity makes for a mouthwatering experience. Silky, round texture likely due to a bit of residual sugar (maybe .2). Slowly, a fine richness emerges. Clearly Kiwi, but not overblown. Stainless steel fermentation at moderate temperatures; then on lees for 3-4 months. In screw cap. Don't overchill, about 55-60 degrees, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Chicken salad with mango; seafood cooked in parchment with mild Asian seasonings (mirin, sesame oil, Ponzu sauce) and julienned vegetables; butternut squash salad with red onion; chicken with lemon and olives; crab cakes; Vietnamese-style spring rolls; seafood or chicken with lemongrass. Hold the heat on Asian dishes; not enough residual sugar for that. Skip oysters. Georgia Distributor: All American (f/k/a Bibb Distributing) $19.00 2006 1 + 1 = 3 Cabernet Sauvignon Rose Penedes Review Date - 3/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry rosé wine; deeply colored but light red. Aromas of red fruits (strawberries, red cherries, currants and raspberries), rose petal note; complex, ripe, red fruit flavors. Some spice adds interest. Has some tannin. Well-structured wine. Alcohol is a bit obvious, but give it rich foods and you won’t mind. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Don’t overchill, so keep at about 50ºF (10ºC). Suggested Food Pairings: Piquillo peppers stuffed with chorizo and served with a garlicky cream sauce (tasted at Cuerno in Midtown); pork ribs or pulled pork with a slightly spicy light-bodied barbecue sauce (Fox Bros.); fajitas de carnitas (Los Bravos); Thai steak salad (STATS); chicken breast baked with full-bodied tomato sauce (I used DeKalb Farmers Market’s tomato sauce); chicken salad with mango (Publix). Georgia Distributor: United Distributors $15.00 2004 Niner Wine Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles Boot Jack Ranch Review Date - 3/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Medium- full-bodied dry red wine; medium-deep dark garnet red. Aromas of brown spice and dark fruits. Flavors blend perfectly, seamlessly fresh dark fruits with fruit-derived elegant tannins. Aromatic brown spices (especially clove) add interest. Exquisitely balanced, with tannins, fruit, acidity all in synch. Substantial alcohol, leaving a bit of heat in the finish, but the fruit throws its weight against the alcohol, and the texture is silky. Has 15% Cabernet Franc. Terrific value. Late-arriving news: Alpharetta resident Mike Musso is Niner's president and general manager. Suggested Food Pairings: Potpie of braised beef short ribs; Thai-style beef salad (both STATS); fajitas de carnitas with sautéed onions and bell peppers (Los Bravos); stews including root vegetable stew with pancetta or country ham; smoked pork rib; grilled Cornish hen brushed with black currant jam glaze; grilled ham, beef or lamb steak; well-aged creamy bleu cheese (Fourme d’Ambert, for example). Georgia Distributor: Prestige Wine Wholesale $25.00 2005 Roth Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Estate Review Date - 3/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep purple red. Aromatic brown spice blends with fresh read fruit characters fruit. Pretty firm tannins, but fruit derived; alcohol shows a bit in the finish. This one benefits substantially from being decanted, as it's quite tight when first opened. Jammy red fruit flavors seem simple initially, but acquire depth with decanting, and the quite firm tannins perform beautifully as they integrate with the fruit. Tasted over four days, and it was best on the last one. Unfiltered. 15% Merlot. In French oak for 18 months. Suggested Food Pairings: Peppered liver pâté; gently smoked meats; Patak's smoked liverwurst; roast pork loin with fruited stuffing; prime rib with gentle horseradish sauce; roast rack of lamb or leg of lamb, mildly spicy salami such as Rosette de Lyon, braised meats with garlic, caramelized onions and natural juices. Georgia Distributor: Ultimate Distributors $40.00 2004 Château La Bardonne Bourdeaux Superieur Moelleux Review Date - 3/1/2008 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied sweet white wine; medium pale yellow. Delicate but complex clean aromas of candied citrus peel and exotic spice (a suggestion of ginger) and a slight spearmint note. Sweet citrus-tinged fruits on the palate, with a clean, long, fruit-focused finish. Lemon drop joins gentle grapefruit notes throughout. Could use a little more acidity. Not as viscous as a Sauternes, but that's not a flaw as this is what it is. In fact, the lighter body may appeal to many consumers who don't care for rich sweet wines. Grape: Sauvignon Blanc. The wine shows the grape's versatility to perfection. Serve moderately chilled, around 50-55ºF in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Lovely value. Serve in tulip-shaped white wine glasses at about 50ºF (10ºC). Suggested Food Pairings: Seafood-stuffed "Beggars purses" with curry sauce from Eurasia Bistro in Decatur; similar slightly spicy Asian fare with chicken or seafood; wine can handle medium but not excessive heat; creamy blue cheeses; pears stuffed with creamy bleu cheese; lemon crème cookies (ooooooooh!); plain cheesecake; simple cookie; biscoti with lemon, lemon squares, mousse of foie gras. Georgia Distributor Bacco Fine Wine $22.00 2004 Eventide Cellar Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Wellington Review Date - 3/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; deep, opaque purple red. Fine aromas of black currant, with rich, deep black currant flavors. In about three hours, a lovely smokiness emerges. A certain richness fills the mouth, and the tannins are sweet and soft. The finish reads high alcohol, although it’s just 14 %. Still a bit tight, so decant two to three hours or so before serving. In tight-grained French oak for 12 months. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Nice value. Suggested Food Pairings: Patak’s smoked liverwurst; Port wine and gorgonzola-stuffed ravioli with nuts, butter and minced chives; roasted veal; ok with grilled duck breast, American lamb, standing rib; barbecue (ribs or pulled pork with medium-bodied not-too-spicy barbecue sauce, Fox Bros.); rich, aged cheeses, such as year-old sheep’s milk Manchego. Do a South Afriacan braai (barbecue) with this one. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $19.00 2005 Fattori Sauvignon bianco delle Venezie I. G. T. Review Date - 3/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; pale gold. Aromas blend almond and fruit, then it morphs into flowers and finally grapefruit, while flavors pick up minerals (a rich chalky character) with the fruit and (a citrus note) and good acidity. Clean, brisk, and very long finish, which ends with a touch of grapefruit. Silky texture. The very soul of balance. This is one you could sip poolside, hang the food. But in true Italian style, it sure does like food. Italy calls its version just Sauvignon. Suggested Food Pairings: Simple foods: Creamy fresh goat cheese with minced green olive, crab cakes; grilled scallops with lemon and capers; vitello al limone (veal scaloppini with lemon); pasta with fresh herbs and a crumbly fresh cheese (like Boursin); cocktail potatoes stuffed with Boursin; fish bakead with butter and garlic, then minced fresh herbs on top; chicken with lemon and olives (Whole Foods); creamy chicken-tarragon salad (Publix). No raw oysters, please. Georgia Distributor: Ultimate Distributors $18.00 Marques de Monistrol Brut Rosé Cava MPX Mas de Monistrol NV Review Date - 2/1/2008 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry sparkling wine; bright fuchsia-pink. Soft red cherry and strawberry aromas, with a slight hint of aromatic spice; plenty of sweet red berry fruits on the palate. Clean, crisp finish. Creamy texture. Good mousse and bead. Just 9 g/k residual sugar, so well under brut maximum of 15 g/l. Grapes: Monastrell (a/k/a Mourvèdre) and Pinot Noir). The word "Mas" means "estate" in Catalan, the language of this part of Spain. Excellent value. Suggested Food Pairings: All manner of dishes: Moroccan fare (cous cous, b'stella; tagines); Asian fare (egg rolls, Chinese or Korean barbecue; teriyaki; salt-and-pepper seafood); Italian: calamari with marinara sauce; caponata; chicken cacciatore; seafood in tomato sauce. American: smoked Alaskan salmon; grilled chicken or seafood with pico de gallo; shrimp fajitas; Spanish fare: paella; escalivada(eggplant with peppers and tomato) Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $11.00 2005 Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage Review Date - 2/1/2008 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Full-bodied moderately sweet red wine; medium-deep dark cherry red. Very shy aromas, somewhat slow to open, but what’s there speaks of blackberry fruit. Good plum and well-focused dark fruit flavors. Not the intense, bold sort of Banyuls; lighter and not as sweet as some, so may appeal especially to anyone who doesn’t care for really sweet dessert wines. Alc. 16%. Grape: Grenache. Serve moderately cool, about 65 degrees, in small tulip-shaped glasses. Suggested Food Pairings: Turtle cake; pan amb chocolat (grilled thinly sliced buttered crusty bread with dabs of melted dark chocolate and a few large grains of gray or other sea salt on top of the chocolate); chocolate truffles; strawberries with basil, turbinado sugar and balsamic vinegar; strawberries or other fruits dipped in chocolate; dark chocolates infused or filled with red fruits; chocolate fondue. Winery also suggests blue cheese; foie gras. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $25.00 Pierre Peters Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Cuvée de Réserve NV Review Date - 2/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry sparkling wine; pale slightly greenish straw. Lovely, lively aromas of fresh cut straw, yeasty aromas; on the palate, fresh fruit--classic green apple and pear-- with a creamy texture. Crisp acidity. Steady, tiny bead. Grapes: 100% Chardonnay. Mesnil-sur-Oger is located in the Marne départment. The Peters family, coming to France from Luxembourg 100 years ago, owns about 40 acres in Champagne. Suggested Food Pairings: Lightly salted potato chips with French onion dip; creamy soups such as oyster stew; pistachios; salmon and other seafood mousses; grilled scallops with creamy sauces; soft smoked salmon (gorgeous!); soft-shell crabs or steamed king-crab legs with lemon butter; seafood and chicken dim sum. Georgia Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $50.00 Italo Cescon Prosecco Marca Trevigiana V.S.A.Q Extra Brut Spumante NV Review Date - 2/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied slightly off-dry white slightly sparkling wine; medium pale straw color. Aromas of fresh fruit and flowers, with ear/golden apple flavors that capture a slight butterscotch note in mid palate. Fruit--focused long finish. Very slightly sparkling, with small bubbles. Grape type: Prosecco, hand harvested. Second fermentation in pressure tank, as is typical of Prosecco. Enjoy for its own merits; and don't compare to Champagne or any other sparkling wine. Suggested Food Pairings: Smoked salmon mousse; seafood; Asian fare and anything slightly spicy: grilled bacon-wrapped scallops with honey-mustard or Rémoulade sauce; salt-and-pepper calamari, shrimp or mussels; teriyaki; sweet-and-sour dishes; egg rolls. Vegetable first courses, such as spaghetti squash salad with shaved Reggiano and fresh herbs; and simple baked fish. Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $17.00 St. Lucas Brut Mendoza NV Review Date - 2/1/2008 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry white sparkling wine; medium gold. Aromas capture gentle spice and quince, hint of orange zest. Pear/quince/apple fruit on the palate. Soft, fruit-driven, moderate acidity. Clean, crisp finish. Ok bead. Grapes: Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Winery dates to the late 19th century. Made by the Charmat method, in which the second fermentation takes place in the tank, rather in the bottle as is done in Champagne. Nice work, and a good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Cornmeal-fried oysters with tartar sauce; crab dishes; lobster; creamy shrimp and grits with tasso or country ham. Asian fare (teriyaki; honey barbecued Chinese spare ribs, salt-and-pepper seafood, egg fu yung); pork kabobs with vegetables; seafood mousse. Georgia Distributor: All American (f/k/a Bibb Distributing) $9.00 Domaine Barth Rene Brut Crémant d'Alsace NV Review Date - 2/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry (brut) sparkling wine; light lemon yellow. Aromas of white fruits, a touch of ginger, precede a palate expressing white peach and cherimoya. Good mousse and persistent small bead. Clean, crisp acidity very palate-cleansing. As the wine opens in the glass, an almond note emerges. Grape types: Pinot Blanc; Riesling; Pinot Gris. Barth René is a highly regarded producer of Alsace wines, especially crémant (sparkling). Suggested Food Pairings: Creamy soups, creamy composed salads such as Thai-influenced (with lemongrass) shrimp or chicken salad; chicken salad with mango and red peppers; ham salad with pickle relish and mayonnaise; ikura (salmon caviar) with Mexican cream or crème fraîche; mildly seasoned Asian hors d'oeuvres (dim sum) with seafood or chicken. Georgia Distributor: Linda Allison Selections $18.00 2004 Sàniger Cava Brut Review Date - 2/1/2008 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry sparkling wine; medium pale lemon yellow. Clean, crisp aromas of fresh apple and gentle aromatic spice, with apple-focused flavors. Crisp finish. Persistent, small bead. Like biting into a crisp, tart apple. Long, clean finish. Grapes: Xarel-lo (45%), Macabeo (40%), Parellada (15% ). Grappa dosage; aged for 20-30 months. Suggested Food Pairings: Duck liver mousse with Port wine aspic; seafood mousse; grilled scallops; soft-shell crabs dusted with curry-accented flour and sautéed in butter and olive oil; seafood or creamy soups, assorted shellfish cooked in white wine and garlic; grilled shrimp; after a meal all by itself, as is done in Spain with cavas. Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $16.00 Jean Pierre Lalouelle Champagne NV Review Date - 2/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium/full-bodied dry sparkling wine; pale straw with a slight rose caste. Yeasty, fresh fruit aromas; flavors pick up yeast, pear/apple, peach note. Complex and intriguing. Good acidity yielding a clean, elegant, crisp finish. Grapes: 70% Pinot Meunier (it shows), 30% Chardonnay. This is a small-production "grower" Champagne. Suggested Food Pairings: Terrific for food: Creamy soups, such as oyster, fresh oysters with lemon, duck liver mousse with Porto, seafood mousses; Thai-style seafood with lemongrass; green papaya salad with shrimp or chicken; crab cakes; crab legs; stone crab claws with mustard mayonnaise, sautéed soft-shell crabs, lobster; chicken salad with mango or other yellow stone fruit; spicy crawfish salad, braised or grilled veal steak with mashed potatoes, chicken Cordon Bleu. Ok with salmon caviar (ikura). Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $45.00 2003 Peteroa Central Valley Late Harvest Reserve Review Date - 2/1/2008 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Full-bodied sweet white wine; medium gold. Aromas of dried apricot and a suggestion of wet, warm straw. Flavors pick up dried apricot, peaches and pears. Good acidity provides balance and a crisp, lingering finish. Viscous, silky texture. Grapes: Gewürztraminer and Sémillon. Average alcohol: 12.5%. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF, in small tulip-shaped glasses. Good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Creamy blue cheeses (Saga, Cambozola); foie gras or creamy liver mousse; simple, not-too-sweet white cookies; madeleines, pound cake; toasted almonds or hazelnuts; pumpkin roulade; sweet potato-based desserts; even chocolate brownie pudding pie. Georgia Distributor: New World Wines $10.00 1999 Fritz-Josef Schwibinger Pinot Gris Rheinhessen Auslese Review Date - 2/1/2008 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Full-bodied sweet white wine; medium pale yellow. Luscious, lively aromas of dried apricots, with a flavor profile that picks up fresh apricot, peach and nectarine. Impressive well-integrated acid/fruit balance, leaving a clean, vibrant finish that lets the palate welcome the next sip and/or bite of food. Moderate alcohol: 11%. Grape type: Pinot Gris. Serve moderately chilled, about 55ºF, in small white-wine glasses. Awesome good work. Suggested Food Pairings: Foie gras, creamy liver mousse with Porto aspic (or similar); creamy blue cheeses (Saga, Cambozola, Gorgonzola dolce), fresh pear slices sautéed in unsalted butter with turbinado sugar and a slice of creamy blue on the side, slightly sweet puff pastry or other simple cookies; creamy rice pudding; butter cookies; apricot-filled tarts or cookies; anything with crème anglaise. Georgia Distributor: Bacco Fine Wine $22.00 1979 Bodegas Toro Albala Pedro Ximenez Montilla-Moriles Don Review Date - 2/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Full-bodied, sweet dessert wine; deep dark (like stout) brown. Aromas of blackstrap molasses, treacle, caramel lead to dried dark fruit flavors (fig, date) with a hint of honey and vanilla. Smooth, unctuous, silky texture. Balanced; not cloying. Grape: Pedro Ximénez. Grapes are sun-dried before being pressed. Not fortified. 17% alc. Serve small amounts (about 2 ounces) moderately chilled, about 50-60ºF, in "copitas," or small tulip-shaped glasses that close slightly at the top. Suggested Food Pairings: Serve as dessert or with blue and firm, aged, ripe cheeses, accompanied by a bit of honey, quince paste (membrillo), or dates; spiced nuts; bread with melted dark chocolate and a few grains of sea salt (superb!), chocolate turtle cake with caramel sauce; heath bar-type desserts. Georgia Distributor: Grapefields $51.00 Hildago - La Gitana Oloroso Jerez Especial NV Review Date - 2/1/2008 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry Sherry; medium-deep gold-tinged amber color. Aromas capture toffee, toasted nuts and caramel, while flavors suggest dried figs, toasted nuts and orange zest. Viscous texture, rich and complex. Hefty alcohol--18%--supplies a warming sensation while the fruit intrigues the palate. The merest hint of fruit sweetness caresses the finish. Grape: Palomino. Founded 1792. Serve small amounts (about 2 ounces) moderately chilled, about 50-60ºF, in "copitas," or small tulip-shaped glasses that close slightly at the top. Do NOT allow servers to chill by pouring on the rocks and draining off; the water ruins the wine. Chill the glass instead, and don't fill it entirely so you can enjoy the aromas. Being re-packaged as “Faraón” (meaning “pharaoh”). Suggested Food Pairings: Go savory: Serrano ham; Marcona almonds; creamy seafood soups; firm, aged cheeses accompanied by quince paste (membrillo) or a dab of good honey; brochettes of chorizo and dates wrapped in bacon and grilled, bleu cheese on top (tasted at Eclipse di Luna Park Place, which serves this by the glass); torta de higos (fig cake). Good if you don't care for really sweet wines, but then don't pair with sweet desserts. Georgia Distributor: Grapefields $26.00 2005 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium dark cherry red color. Aromas start with a warm earthiness backed up by fresh dark cherry fruit; but more savory than sweet. Elegant, silky tannins wrap the whole package. Hint of crushed wild herb in the finish. Grapes (Pommard and Dijon clones for 2/3 of the blend) are from southern Wairau Valley. Cloudy Bay made its reputation on Sauvignon Blanc, but the Pinot Noir is excellent. Quite good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Truffled liver pâté, roast chicken breast with wild rice stuffing, roast quail, grilled tuna or salmon with soy-based dipping sauce (teriyaki; ponzu; etc.), pork loin with sage-caressed bread stuffing; grilled chicken breast with sun-dried tomatoes and capers; grilled veal chop; creamy mild cheeses: mushroom brie; creamy bleu; brie de Meaux. Georgia Distributor: Empire Distributors $30.00 2005 Savannah-Chanelle Vineyards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Armagh Vineyard Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; dusty garnet red. Aromas of dried herbs and fresh berries; flavors follow the same profile, with well-integrated fruit/herb characters. Very long fruit-driven finish, but shows a mite of heat (alcohol is high, 14. 7%). Complex, the wine evolves quickly in the glass, deepening the fruit flavors. Savannah-Chanelle is mainly about Pinot Noir. Founded by Pierre Pourroy, a Frenchman, in 1892, the winery was purchased in 1996 by Michael and Kellie Ballard, who named it for their daughters. Suggested Food Pairings: Truffled liver mousse; grilled bacon-wrapped scallops (skip the Rémoulade with this one); braised veal shank or breast; grilled chicken, shrimp or salmon (skip grilled tuna with this one); teriyaki; roast duck; hanger steak with mac ‘n’ cheese; braised veal or hangar steak, creamy or semi-soft blue (bleu cheese sauce on steak); soft, creamy cheeses (such as Délice de Bourgogne or Explorateur). Georgia Distributor: Grapefields $41.00 2005 Foley Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Santa Maria Hills Vineyard Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; bright red cherry color. Aromas of dark berries and spice (brown aromatics, such as cinnamon and allspice); complex, with well-integrated flavors and silky tannins. Most pleasing on the palate. Located in Santa Barbara County, Santa Rita Hills AVA (2001) is a small cool-climate zone with about 1700 planted acres. After some conflict with Chilean vintners who alleged brand dilution, an agreement was reached in 2006 to rename the AVA officially Sta. Rita Hills. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled scallops wrapped in bacon; roast Cornish hen, duck and turkey (other game birds probably too); really good with mac ‘n’ cheese (but not the boxed stuff) and grilled hangar steak roast rack or leg of lamb. Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Co. $40.00 2005 Lynmar Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; medium dark cherry red color. Sweet dark fruit aromas, focused on dark cherry, leading into dark cherry flavors—typical of Russian River—with a slight caramel note in the finish. Soft tannins. Nice length with plenty of sweet fruit all the way to the finish and good acid balance. Elegant. Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is all about fruit, and this one is no exception. 2005 was a very cool vintage, a condition Pinot Noir likes. Can enjoy over a few years with proper cellaring. Suggested Food Pairings: Roast duck, grilled mild Italian sausage; roast turkey (especially the dark meat) with sausage dressing; grilled lamb steaks or chops, roast lamb, grilled chicken with sun-dried tomatoes and capers; sage-dressing-stuffed pork loin; creamy blues (Fourme d’Ambert, Cambazola) and other creamy mild cheeses, such as mushroom brie. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $36.00 2006 Aresti Pinot Noir Curicó Valley Estate Selection Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium deep dark cherry color. Aromas of dark and red berries, with flavors that blend berry flavors with vanilla and gentle spice, specifically hints of anise and cinnamon. Complex and delicious, with soft tannins and a long finish. Delivers a lot of flavor for the money. Terrific value selection. Suggested Food Pairings: Truffled liver mousse, pork loin stuffed with stage dressing; roast veal, grilled mild Italian sausage, not bad with roast turkey; crumbed chicken breast with wild rice bacon stuffing, chicken breast with sun-dried tomatoes and capers. Idea: Make boeuf bourgignon or cog au vin rouge with this one and enjoy the dish with any of the following. Also good for making oeufs en Meurette, eggs poached in Pinot Noir. Georgia Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $13.00 2006 Craggy Range Pinot Noir Martinborough Te Muna Road Vineyard Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; bright garnet red. Aromas balance dark and red fruits with that characteristic scent of dried herb; flavors supply balanced fruit/herb characters. Finish is long; tannins elegant; the whole package splendid. Alcohol is 14%, but balance is excellent. Martinborough Pinots are scarce here, but very worth searching out. They tend to be more savory rather than over-the-top fruit. Not at all Burgundian; definitely Kiwi. And that's just fine. Suggested Food Pairings: All pâtés and terrines; smoked meats, grilled quail, roast chicken, turkey, duck or pheasant; game birds, braised meats with caramelized onions; pork loin with sage dressing; chicken, pork or veal saltimbocca; grilled veal chop stuffed with Fontina cheese and prosciutto; rack of lamb; ham steak, soft, mild cheeses (Délice de Bourgogne). Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Co. $54.00 2005 Morgan Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Garys' Vineyard Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; medium dark cherry red. Aromatic mushroom-accented dark fruits; sweet dark cherry fruit on the palate, with a tobacco note in the finish. Very easy tannins. Long finish is a bit hot solo, as alcohol is 14.2%, but rich foods ameliorate the heat. Seems to be evolving nicely, and has a good road trip ahead of it. Suggested Food Pairings: Truffled liver mouse, mushroom ravioli with butter and grated Reggiano, crumbed chicken breast stuffed with wild rice and bacon; sage-dressing-stuffed pork loin; creamy mild cheeses, such as Delice de Bourgogne or creamy blues such as Fourme d’Ambert, mushroom brie. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $55.00 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Whole Cluster Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium dark cherry red. Aromatic cherry aromas, definite whole cluster character in the nose; flavors hit on red cherry with spice and bit of red raspberry in the finish. About a decade ago, it tasted rather like raspberry bubble gum, but now it’s quite grown up, yet still a good choice for the beginning Pinot Noir fan. Tannins are easy, and the finish is long and rewarding. As one taster said: “Boy, wouldn’t that be great chilled at a picnic.” You bet. Suggested Food Pairings: Rather surprising with mushroom and red onion salad; truffled liver mousse; mushroom-stuffed pastas with butter, minced fresh herbs and Parmesan cheese; grilled salmon; grilled pancetta-wrapped scallops with rémoulade sauce; grilled veal chop; fried chicken; wraps and other sandwiches with cured meats; creamy blue cheeses, such as Cambozola or Fourme d’Ambert, triple cream cheeses (Délice de Bourgogne). Georgia Distributor: General Wholesale $18.00 2004 Campion Wines Pinot Noir Los Carneros Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium dark cherry red. Somewhat shy aromas of dark cherry fruit, but flavors deliver generous dark cherry with a touch of vanilla. Not especially complex, but very elegant. “Los Carneros,” meaning “the rams” in Spanish, is a major cool-climate region that curves around the San Pablo Bay just north of San Francisco. Larry Brooks established Campion in 2000, but while the label is a relative newcomer, the winemaker is not new to the subject of Pinot Noir. Suggested Food Pairings: Wild mushroom salad with red onions (Whole Foods), mushroom-stuffed ravioli with butter and fresh minced parsley or chives; grilled lamb, pork chops or steaks; roast lamb; Vietnamese shaking beef; roast turkey; ham, feathered and furred game. Georgia Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $32.00 2002 Hopler Pinot Noir Qualitatswein Trocken Burgenland Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; dusty garnet red. Delicate fragrance of dark berries with dark berry flavors. Moderate alcohol (13%) and silky tannins create a fine frame for these flavors. Moderate acidity. Clean, sweet fruit finish. Grapes are grown on the eastern slopes of the Leitha mountain range. Long famous for its wine, Burgenland, the seventh largest of Austria's nine Bundesländer (states or provinces), lies in the east and borders on Hungary, Slovenia and Slovakia. Originally Hungarian, it became part of Austria in 1921. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled bacon-wrapped scallops with Rémoulade; grilled chicken, shrimp, salmon or tuna; teriyaki; roast duck, chicken or turkey; grilled or roast pork; braised veal breast or shank; hanger steak with mac ‘n’ cheese (from Relish); roast rack of lamb; creamy bleu cheeses, such as Cambozola (Germany). Georgia Distributor: Grapefields $22.00 2006 Green Point Pinot Noir Rose Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry rosé wine, bright reddish pink color. Lively fresh red fruit aromas—strawberry and red raspberry, with red fruit flavors developing nicely on the palate and adding a brown aromatic spice note for complexity. Very long finish, with a lovely, crisp close. This is the sort of rosé that would make any rosé-phobe come to his/her palate senses, absent of course a totally closed mind on the subject. Just delicious. Serve moderately chilled, about 55 degrees or so. Established by Moët et Chandon in 1986 in Australia's Yarra Valley, just north of Melbourne. Suggested Food Pairings: Pancetta-wrapped grilled scallops or chicken tenders with mustard mayonnaise or rémoulade sauce; wild smoked salmon spread on crackers; simple grilled salmon, roast turkey, grilled or roast ham; roast chicken or quail, roast pork loin; grilled chicken breast with sun-dried tomatoes and capers. Georgia Distributor: National Distributing Co. $15.99 2006 Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; medium dark purple red. Beautiful aromatic, compelling, complex aromas hint at spices (cardamom) and dried wild herbs; flavors blend dark fruit, dark plums and aromatic spices in a wonderfully complex experience that sets the whole glass a-glow. Alcohol is high (14.5%) but the wine is very well balanced, with moderate ph and good acidity. Suggested Food Pairings: Truffled liver mousse; mushroom salad with red onions and red wine vinegar dressing; mushroom-stuffed ravioli with butter, fresh herbs and Parmesan cheese; grilled salmon or tuna; Vietnamese “shaking” beef; roast turkey; feathered and furred game; grilled pork or veal chop, roast pork loin; creamy blue cheeses, triple cream cheeses, such as Délice de Bourgogne. Georgia Distributor: Prestige Wine Wholesale $43.00 2004 Haderburg Hausmannhof Blauburgunder D.O.C. Review Date - 1/1/2008 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium dark-cherry red. Spice and dark fruit aromas, including some dried fruit characters; suggestion of clove and allspice; flavors knit brown spices and dark fruits (blackberries and dark cherries). Suggestion of fruit cake and steamed plum pudding. Moderate alcohol, 13.5%, so finish is smooth, silky. Balanced. Easy tannin. Tasted open, so might be good idea to decant for a little while before serving. In a Bordeaux-style bottle. Does all that German from an Italian wine confuse you? Until WWI, this turf was part of Austria. Suggested Food Pairings: Amazing with grilled pancetta-wrapped shrimp and scallops with mustard mayonnaise; roast chicken or turkey (especially dark meat); grilled tuna or salmon with ponzu, teriyaki or soy dipping sauces; crumbed chicken breast with wild rice-bacon stuffing (Whole Foods); grilled or roasted Cornish game hen, veal roast, grilled veal chop; creamy bleu cheese (Fourme d’Ambert); mushroom brie). Georgia Distributor: Vinifera $28.00 2004 Mas Champart St.-Chinian Causse du Bousquet Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; opaque purple red. Initial suggestion of tar in aromas, then baked dark fruits, such as plum, and finally hints of chocolate. Chocolate notes also on the palate, along with aromatic dark spices and dark fruits, both fresh and dried. Silky but well-defined tannins that lend substance to the mouthfeel without being aggressive. Grapes: Syrah (65%), Grenache, Carignan and a little Mourvèdre, a portion of which sees some time in oak. A sense of alcohol in the long finish, but not excessive. Serve cool, about 60ºF, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. First reds vintage done in1996. See causse definied above. Suggested Food Pairings: Meat- or cheese-filled ravioli with tomato sauce, Parmesan cheese; roast duck; barbecued meatloaf or chicken, Southern-style pulled pork or smoked ribs with tomato-based barbecue sauce; braised red meats with mashed potatoes, polenta or noodles, firm aged cheeses. Dark chocolate hazelnut terrine. Maybe mole poblano? Georgia Distributor: Northeast Wholesale $20.00 2004 Richard Hamilton Colton's GSM McLaren Vale Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; intense deep purple red. Spicy aromas with white pepper and cocoa notes reveal the Grenache and Shiraz elements in this rich, intense blend. Fresh, sweet black fruits (rather than dried) and substantial but not aggressive tannins suggest this could be a short-term keeper if correctly cellared. Flavors offer blackberry and black raspberry, with hints of chocolate. The long, lush finish captures an extra measure of richness. Grape types: Grenache (47%); Shiraz (42%); Mourvèdre (11%). With a Mediterranean climate, McLaren Vale has hosted viticulture since 1838; it sits in the Fleurieu Peninsula about 35 mi. south of Adelaide. Suggested Food Pairings: Peppered liver pâté; coarse-textured terrines; peanut-crusted rack of lamb; roasted chicken with a Southeast Asian barbecue sauce (lemon grass, honey, ginger, keffir lime--from Roy's), smoked meats and liverwurst, baked sweet onion stuffed with sweet potato; creamy, mild bleu cheeses; dark chocolate (so possibly a good match with mole poblano). Georgia Distributor: Hemispheres $18.00 2005 Santa Maria la Palma Cannonau di Sardegna Le Bombarde Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; bright medium-deep garnet. Aromas of spice, dried dark fruits, hint of licorice, On the palate, silky tannins and moderate acidity embellish fresh red fruits. Finish, while not especially long, is full of fruit and spice. Grape type: Cannonau, a/k/a Grenache. Sardinia, or Sardegna in Italian, is an island off the coast of Italy in the Mediterranean. Human habitation on the island goes back thousands of years, and recently discovered desiccated grapes were DNA tested and date to 1200 BC, leading some to wonder if Cannonau, or Grenache, could be the mother of all European wine grapes. This is one of Sardinia's oldest wineries. Suggested Food Pairings: Creamy-textured liver mousse; chicken thighs braised with caramelized onions and tomato; pasta stuffed with feta cheese and black olives, tomato sauce; pizza; braised pork butt; grilled lamb steak or chop; grilled duck breast; rich red meat stews; pastas with braised meats; grilled ham steak; braised veal breast, meatloaf with barbecue sauce. Georgia Distributor: Grape Expectations $15.00 2006 Viñedos El Sequé EL SEQUÉ Alicante Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep, nearly opaque inky purple red. Rather "meaty" aromas at first, then aromatic, with heady dark fruit characters, flavors that bring up fresh dark fruits--especially plum--Very easy tannins. Nice balance. Grape type: Monastrell (80%) a/k/a Mourvèdre, from very old vines. Western Alicante begins to develop a Continental climate with very hot summers and dry winds. Grapes are super stressed, being planted in dry otherwise infertile soils and at high (600 meters plus) altitudes. Good value. Suggested Food Pairings: Peppered liver pâté; barbecue; grilled lamb steak or chop; lamb stew; roast duck or Cornish hen; grilled ham steak; braised red meats; steak with bleu cheese sauce; braised chicken thigh with caramelized onions and tomatoes; braised veal; barbecued meatloaf; dark chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $11.00 2005 Bilton Matt Black Stellenbosch Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep inky garnet red. Soft aromas of cured tobacco overlaying ripe dark fruits--black cherries and black raspberries--with a palate that echoes the fruit and adds notes of dark chocolate. Very long finish has a little heat but not enough to disturb the pleasure. Mellow tannins and dark berries round out the pleasure factor, with enough acidity to cut through any richness. Big and juicy. Grapes: Merlot (35%); Shiraz (25%); Cabernet Sauvignon (25%); Petit Verdot (15%). Maturation in French (90%) and Hungarian oak. Matt Black, incidentally, was a famous pirate. Sitting at about 33ºS, Stellenbosch has a Mediterranean climate. Suggested Food Pairings: Peppered liver pâté, pork shoulder or belly braised in sorghum and apple juice; furred game; braised short ribs or oxtails in full-bodied red wine; wide-ribbon pasta with game sauces or braised meat sauces; steak with bleu cheese sauce; burger with all the trimmings, creamy bleu cheeses; dark chocolate (loves the stuff). Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $18.00 2004 Lorgerin Pennautier Lorgerin Pennautier La Combe des Oliviers Corbières Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; opaque purple red. Aromas of spice and dried herb initially, later a dried flower note emerges. On the palate one tastes fig followed by ripe red fruits. Tannins are silky, and wine's pleasure is as much from mouthfeel as it is flavor. Vibrant finish. Suggest decanting 1-2 hours ahead, then serve cool, about 60ºF in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Grapes: Mourvèdre (70%); Grenache (15%), Syrah (15%). Vineyard is just 9 miles from Carcassine, the ancient walled Medieval city, and benefit both from the Med sun and heat and the Atlantic Ocean's moisture-bearing winds. Planted on slopes of very rocky soil. Terrific value. Suggested Food Pairings: Very fine food wine: Salamis and other cured meats grilled sausages; liver pârés and mousses, black olives; braised meats; roast or fried chicken, Cornish hen or duck; chili-rubbed pork loin; lightly curried chick peas, pulled pork barbecue with tomato-based sauce; meatloaf, pork butt braised in sorghum and apple juice with caramelized onions, braised chicken or turkey thighs with caramelized onions and tomato sauce. Not a good chocolate red. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $13.00 2004 La Cave de l'Abbé Rous Cornet & Cie Banyuls Rimage Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full -bodied sweet red wine; very dark purple red. Aromas of dark fruits and dark chocolate; flavors focus on black plums, some dried dark fruits. Clean finish. Good acidity, so not at all cloying. Substantial alcohol 15.5%, but you don’t notice it. Soft tannins. “Rimage” designates a particularly successful year. Alcohol is added while must is still on the skins. Barrel aged. Very important: Serve cool, about 60ºF, in small tulip-shaped glasses. Warmer temperatures emphasize the alcohol and suppress the fruit. So be severe about this serving temperature for maximum enjoyment. The 2005 vintage is currently available. Suggested Food Pairings: Dark chocolate; dark fruit cake, steamed puddings, bleu cheeses; red fruits (try with strawberries, chiffonade of fresh basil, raw sugar and a little bit of good balsamic vinegar, marinated for about two hours) —and perhaps also savory dishes with some spice from an exotic cuisine, such as duck with Massaman curry if not too hot. Georgia Distributor: Avant Partir $16.00 2005 Domaine des Causses St. Chinian Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium dark ruby red. Aromas capture a hint of vanilla infusing the red berry characters, while flavors suggest cranberry and currant. A touch of dried herb emerges here and there. Easy tannins and good acidity. Moderate alcohol, just 13%. Very palate-caressing. Grapes: Syrah (60%); Grenache (20%--old vine) and Mourvèdre (20%. The appellation also does a rosé out of the same grapes. A village in the départment of Herault that dates to the 9th century, St. Chinian was once known for making cloth, but the Revolution ended that, so the village turned to viticulture. St. Chinian acquired AOC status in 1982, and includes some 20 comunes. Its vines are planted on steep hillside slopes facing the Med. A causse is a group of limestone plateaus cut by large river gorges within France's massif central. Suggested Food Pairings: Prosciutto-wrapped figs; pasta with ham and cream (such as Carbonara), grilled ham steak, roast duck, braised lamb shank with caramelized onion and mashed ptoatoes; lamb casserole with nutmeg-scented mashed potatoes and tomato; chicken roulade with feta cheese, herbs and sun-dried tomatoes; roasted and fried chicken; roasted veal or pork tenderloin; chicken roulade stuffed with feta cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $17.00 2004 Alpha Estate Red Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Full-bodied deeply colored dry red wine; deep, translucent purple red. Aromatic, with abundant red and dark fruits. On the palate, firm but not aggressive tannins frame luscious dark fruit flavors, focused on blackberry and black currant (cassis). Mouth-filling and -pleasing, with a suggestion of cinnamon in the long finish. Handsome work altogether. Decant Grape types: Syrah (60%); Xinomavro (20%); Merlot (20%). The Greek Macedonia arches along the Aegean, which is part of the Mediterranean, and borders on Albania, the Republic of Macedonia, and Bulgaria. Its climate is both Alpine (in the mountainous west) and Mediterranean (central and east). Thus, it has cold, damp winters and hot, dry summers. Its cuisine blends Mediterranean cooking with Asian elements. Suggested Food Pairings: Black olives, dishes with feta cheese, smoked meats, including smoked liverwurst, roast chicken with Southeast Asian barbecue sauce (see above), rack of lamb coated in crushed peanuts, deeply flavored smoked meats; grilled meats; mild semi-soft cheeses, including blues. Georgia Distributor: United Distributors $40.00 2002 Sangenis I Vaque Priorat Dara Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 85 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium red cherry color. Aromas of vanilla and dark fruits, with definite cola notes; toasty characters punctuate dark fruit flavors, and finish with a soft vanilla note. Soft tannins and a fair hit of oak. Grape types: Garnacha; Cariñena; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. As required to be a "crianza," the wine spends six months in French and American oak (and the latter is fairly evident). It's then further aged 12 months in bottle. Suggested Food Pairings: Black olives, quite wonderful with pulled pork barbecue with medium-bodied, not-too-hot, and not sweet tomato-based sauce; fried chicken; roast pork loin. Not a good cheese wine, and especially not with bleus. Atlanta Distributor: Ultimate Distributors $22.00 2004 Abbaye de Tholomies Minervois Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine. Aromas of black currant, black plum and dark cherry with just a whiff of malted milk. On the palate, the same flavors pick up a touch of spice and keep the chocolate notes. Velvety tannins. Well-structured. Good acidity. Long finish. Needs time to open up, so suggest decanting 30 minutes to an hour. Grape types: Syrah (60%); Grenache (30%), Mourvèdre (10%). Produced without chemicals. Owner Lucien Rogé. is a dental surgeon and former French national rugby star. 2004 was a very good vintage in the region. Suggested Food Pairings: Grilled and roasted meats; especially prime rib, crown roast of pork; hangar steak with Gorgonzola or other bleu cheese sauce; casseroled chicken or other fowl; roast duck; barbecued meat loaf or chicken, mild curried legumes, such as chick peas; firm, aged cheeses. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $16.00 2006 Morgan Cotes du Crow's Monterey Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium dark cherry red. Aromas of dark cherry and spice (white pepper), flavors suggest a touch of cola, adding a complex note to the spice and fresh dark fruits. Nicely integrated fruit, spice and soft tannin. Juicy, berry-filled long finish. Rich, spicy yet elegant; structured and supple. Grapes: Syrah (55%); Grenache (45%). Serve cool, about 60ºF, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses Climate: Monterey's average temperatures--winter hits 53ºF. spring is 56 ºF; summer 60ºF; and fall of 61ºF--is a classic temperate Med climate pattern. Suggested Food Pairings: Tremendous food versatility: Braised lamb shanks, mashed potatoes or polenta, pan sauce and grilled vegetables; braised pork belly (fresh bacon) with caramelized onions, sorghum and apple juice; hangar steak with blue cheese sauce; grilled lamb steaks or chips, Korean barbecue, mild, rich, semi-soft cheeses; dark chocolate. Georgia Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wines/NDC $18.00 2005 La Planeta Sicilia La Segreta Red Review Date - 12/1/2007 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium garnet A slight rose petal note lends some interest to the otherwise clean but unremarkable aromas. Flavors do better, with red and dark fruits and aromatic brown spices filling the palate. Moderate acidity. Finish is clean and long, and tannins are silky and refined. Grape types: Nero d'Avola (50%); Merlot (25%); Syrah (20%), Cabernet Franc (5%). The 2006 vintage is due soon. Suggested Food Pairings: Casual foods: Very good with salamis and other cured meats; anything cooked in tomato sauce, such as chicken thighs or rabbit; pizza, pasta with tomato sauce; sandwiches and roll-ups; meatloaf,meatballs or meatballs in tomato sauce; vegetable stews; firm, aged cheeses. Georgia Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $16.00 2004 Trimbach Pinot Blanc Alsace Review Date - 11/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium gold. Aromas and flavors of pear, white melon and honey, with good acid backbone and a long finish. Silky texture, indicating perhaps some residual sugar (.2-.3), but the finish is dry and explodes at the end with another burst of fruit. Delicious from stem to stern. Winery established in 1626. Serve moderately chilled, about 60 degrees, in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Exotic flavors: As an aperitif with crab and red pepper mousse; butter-poached oysters on toast; grilled bacon-wrapped scallops with mustard mayonnaise; crab cakes with Remoulade sauce; crab-stuffed Cornish game hen; spatzle with cream; chicken and yellow fruit salad. Roast turkey with apple bread stuffing. Atlanta Wholesale Wine/National Distributing Co. $17.00 2004 Bouchard Pere et Fils Beaune du Chateau Premier Cru Review Date - 11/1/2007 Score - 95 Tasting Note: Medium- bodied dry red wine; ruby red. Classic Burgundian aromas of compost and truffles, the sexy earthy character one looks for ideally in Burgundy. Palate follows with juicy ripe fruits with black and sour cherries. Gorgeous balance. Good length. Velvety tannins. Brisk acidity. 13% alc. Serve cool, about 65F in large round-bowl glasses. Flat out one of the finest values in Burgundy, but especially for a premier cru. Potential near-term keeper, but sure does drink fine right now. Simple cuisine to let the wine lead: mushroom ragoût, tart, ravioli, lasagna or risotto; roast chicken, lamb, turkey, duck; feathered game; crown roast of veal with bread stuffing, soft mild cheeses. A friend reports success pairing it with classic American-style lasagna. Atlanta Distributor: Atlanta Wholesale Wine/NDC $28.00 2005 Quinta do Portal Moscatel Douro Review Date - 11/1/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Full-bodied sweet white wine; medium deep gold. Floral aromas with slight suggestion of wet, warm hay; rich, fresh fruit flavors made complex by ample minerality. Moderately viscous texture, and a crisp, clean finish. Grape: Moscatel. Quinta do Portal [keen-tah dew por-tahl] has been in business since 1715. Serve moderately chilled, about 65F, in small, tulip-shaped glasses or on the rocks with a splash of tonic water and a squeeze of fresh lime. Aperitif: chilled straight with foie gras or liver mousse or on the rocks, with tonic water and lime, and slightly spicy cheese straws or squares (see Chinaberry Foods, Thomson, GA), almonds and olives. Dessert: fruit tarts; plain cheesecake; aged Manchego cheese with membrillo; rice pudding with quince compote (tasted at Beleza). Atlanta Distributor: United Distributors $15.00 2003 Oakville Ranch Robert's Blend Napa Valley Review Date - 11/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; medium ruby red. Initial shy aromas develop red fruits (raspberry) and spice. Flavors pick up the trail of the red fruits and evolve, acquiring spice notes and a touch of dried herb, all leading to a long finish. Tannins are silky; alcohol shows a bit in the finish. Not overrun with oak (57% new oak barrels). Very tight when first opened, needs lots of time to breathe--a couple of hours would not be inappropriate. Then come cedar, black fruits, black pepper, currants, dried fruits. Decanting really needed. Grapes: Cabernet Franc (65%); Cabernet Sauvignon (35%); Suggested serving temperature about 60-65F; large tulip-shaped glasses. Ideal for folks who enjoy the big California-style red wines, yet has more food friendliness than many. Potential keeper if well cellared, about Impressive gift. Lovely package. Rich foods: Sausage-stuffed ravioli with tomato; pork (chops, belly or shoulder roast) slow-braised in sorghum and apple juice, served on mashed potatoes, polenta or creamy grits; chili-rubbed roast pork loin (Whole Foods); roasted leg or rack of lamb; rib roast;, roast duck; leg of lamb; mild bleu cheeses; dark chocolate truffle Atlanta Distributor: Hemispheres $75.00 2005 Domaine Rosier Blanquette de Limoux Brut Review Date - 11/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white sparkling wine; pale yellow with greenish highlights. Aromas of fruit (green apple from the Chardonnay) and flowers, a honey note. On the palate, creamy and rich, with a decided crisp apple note--almost Pepin. Elegant and refreshing. Good mousse with steady thread. Grape type: Mauzac (pronounced mow-zhak) [a/k/a Blanquette--pronounced blawn-ket] (60%), Chardonnay (20%), and Chenin Blanc (20%). 12% alc. Very fine value. Sparkling wines of Limoux date to 1531, thus claims to be France’s oldest bubbly. Mauzac must dominate. Domaine founded in 1982. Serve chilled, about 45F, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Very fine value. Good crowd-pleasing sparkler. Suggested Food Pairings: Apple-cheese-caramelized onion tart; sweet-potato- or winter squashed-stuffed baked sweet onion; squash-stuffed ravioli with brown butter, sauteed apple, toasted pine nuts and fresh herbs (not sage); chicken breasts with creamy pan sauce; veal in cream; pork steaks with sautéed apples and onions, creamy mustard sauce, mild creamy almost sweet cheeses (e.g., Explorateur); Don't go near caviar with this one. Georgia Distributor: Avant Partir $14.00 2006 Bodegas Pedro Escudero Valdelainos Verdejo Review Date - 11/1/2007 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Light-bodied dry white wine; very pale straw. Herbaceous aromas with citrus notes, with vigorous minerality and fresh herbaceousness. Firm, focused and juicy, with precise citrus and mineral flavors, Long, clean, zingy finish. Grapes: Verdejo (96%) [pronounce vair-DAY-ho]; Viura (4%) [pronounce vee-UR-ah]. Terrific value. Serve moderately chilled about 55ºF. Hand harvested during the first week of October with strict selection of the grapes. Detail shows. Serve moderately chilled, about 50-55F in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Extraordinary quality in the genre. Tapas and appetizers: salt cod fritters; brandade morue; garlic shrimp; crab-stuffed piquillo peppers; croquetas; crab cakes; grilled scallops; cocktail-sized potatoes stuffed with sour cream and chives; fried oysters with caper Remoulade, a wide range of seafood and fish dishes with slight Asian characters. Atlanta Distributor: Avant Partir $11.00 2005 Bodegas Alto Almansa Este Vino de Mesa Review Date - 11/1/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium deep dark cherry red. Fresh and dried dark and red fruits--red and black currants, cranberries--with a slight intriguing and not at all unpleasant note of dried bitter herb. Sweet fruit on the palate doubles back to that slight bitter character in the close. Easy tannins and a long finish. Monastrell: (60%); Tempranillo: (10%); Garnacha: (10%); Cabernet Sauvignon: (7%); Syrah: (7%); Merlot: (6%)--a veritable fruit salad. Vines from nine to 40 years old, dry farmed. Six months in French and American oak. Lovely value and a great party red. Serve at cool room temperatures, about 60 degrees, in glasses with generous tulip-shaped bowls. A great party red. Casual fare. Burgers with bleu cheeses; hangar steak with brie or bleu cheese drizzle; beef fajitas, sandwiches (roll-ups, wraps, Cubans--such as the classic medianoche), pizza, casseroles, grilled sausages, cured meats; grilled meats; furred or feathered game; lasagna; pot pie; stews Atlanta Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $8.00 2005 Jorge Ordonez Malaga No. 1 Review Date - 11/1/2007 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Full-bodied sweet wine; intense, brilliant golden color. Moderately intense nose, with floral notes of orange blossom, orange peel, jasmine and rose. Some mineral notes and a hint of spice cake. On the palate, well balanced between sweetness and acidity. Lightly sweet long finish. From a more than 50-year-old at 1800 feet above sea level. Moscatel de Alexandria grapes slowly, evenly dried on roof of building. Not fortified: Fermentation stopped by lowering temperature. Stainless steel fermented. Substantial residual sugar 120 grams/liter. Scarce: 200 cases/12 bottle packs. Serve moderately chilled, about 60F, in small tulip-shaped glasses. Great gift. Aperitif or dessert. Aperitif with pate, foie gras, almonds and semi-soft cheeses. Dessert: milk chocolate, fig cake (Spanish torta de higos); membrillo and aged Manchego; fruit cake; simple cookie, steamed fig pudding, pound cake, rice pudding with dried golden fruits Atlanta Distributor: Prestige Wine Wholesale $22.00 2005 The Rare Wine Co. New York Malmsey Madeira Special Reserve Review Date - 11/1/2007 Score - 95 Tasting Note: Full-bodied medium sweet wine; medium reddish amber. Aromas of caramel and toffee, flavors wrap toffee, aromatic brown spices, and dried fruits, a lively acidity, and lead to a very long finish. Rich, complex, beautifully balanced. Substantial alcohol (19%), so serve (lightly cool) after dinner in small tulip-shaped glasses. Madeira was the toast of the Declaration of Independence, and a favorite of the Founding Fathers. Malmsey is the English notion of Malvasia, the grape from which it's made. Very good value in the genre. Fabulous gift. Date and espresso cake (tasted at Eno); fruit cake; pound cake; toasted candied nuts; simple not-too-sweet cookie; milk chocolate, fig pudding or other steamed pudding Atlanta Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $50.00 2006 Hayman & Hill Interchange Reserve White Blend Santa Barbara Review Date - 11/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied “very-slightly off-dry” white wine; very pale straw. Aromatic with touches of citrus, lichee nut, floral notes and spice. Luscious fleshy fruit flavors, picking up pear and keeping the citrus, lichee nut and spice notes. Crisp, clean conclusion with a long finish. Virtual fruit salad: Chardonnay (47%); Sauvignon Blanc (34%); Muscat Canelli (7%); Malvasia Bianca (5%); and Gewurztraminer (3%)--a virtual fruit salad. Inspired by Conundrum, perhaps, but is more elegant and less aggressively forward. Thus more food friendly. Serve moderately cool, about 60-65F in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Great for a buffet of varied foods: Cold poached salmon with mild curried homemade mayonnaise; mild white fish (such as halibut) salad; ham with relish spread; chicken salad with mango; roast chicken stuffed with cous cous and dried yellow fruits; orange honey glaze; light curries; Asian fare with chicken or seafood; dim sum; chili-rubbed pork loin (Whole Foods); grilled chicken apple sausages Atlanta Distributor: National Distributing Co. $10.00 2005 Gaston Chiquet Champagne Tradition Review Date - 11/1/2007 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry sparkling white wine; medium gold. Aromas of almond and rising bread dough, classic yeastiness, with red fruits on the palate--red cherries and raspberries--and a long, clean crisp classical finish. Good acidity and correct alcohol (12.5%) Small bead in persistent thread. Good consistency: Tasted several times. Disgorged 3/31/06. Grapes: Pinot Meunier; Pinot Noir; Chardonnay. Serve chilled, about 45-50F in tall flutes. Very good value for Champagne. Rich hors d'oeuvres and first courses: Crispy fried oysters with celeriac puree and caper Remoulade (tasted at Eno); bacon-wrapped scallops with mustard mayonnaise; creamy winter squash soup or seafood bisque; seafood mousses or terrines, creamy risotto. Rich main dishes: roast chicken with cream-enriched pan sauce; veal chop; prime rib. Not austere, so not suitable for caviar. Atlanta Distributor: Quality Wine & Spirits $40.00 2003 Chateau du Pintey Bordeaux Superieur Review Date - 11/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep purple red. Aromas and flavors of plums, black currants, aromatic spices, some black pepper notes. Red apple notes. Tart and juicy. From a very hot vintage, so cellaring should be short term. Located at the confluence of two streams on the foothills of the Pomerol plateau. Merlot (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Cabernet Franc (15%). Serve cool, about 60F, in tulip-shaped large-bowled glasses. Very enjoyable, and an excellent value. On the list at Bern’s Steak House in Tampa. Hearty fare: Braised pork chops with caramelized onions; prime rib; meat pies; stews; cassoulet; grilled chicken; maybe barbecue? And steak, of course. Some mild aged cheeses; bleu cheese. Atlanta Distributor: Prestige Wine Wholesale $15.00 2006 Harveys Fino Review Date - 10/1/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; very pale straw. Aromas of bracing salty air and warm chalky earth; salty, tangy, classic fino Sherry flavors. Good minerality, with the characteristic chalky earthiness. Less robustly flavored than some (thus the term "light"), but completely correct and perhaps more likely to appeal to a broad audience. Perks up the palate with its brisk, clean finish. Substantial alcohol, 15%, so serve small pours, very well chilled, about 45 degrees in small tulip-shaped glasses. Aperitif wine. Manchego cheese, almonds (Marconas or slated and roasted), garlic shrimp, green olives, cheese straws or coins, chicken croquetas, sliced Spanish chorizo (cured) or Mexican chorizo cooked in Sherry and sliced. National Distributing Co. $19.00 2006 J. Esteve Nadal Avinoy Cava Brut Review Date - 10/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white sparkling wine; very pale yellow. Aromas of apple, pear, and fresh bread with, creamy textures and fresh fruit flavors, as well as the faintest hint of cinnamon. Fun, flavorful and easy to drink. Crisp, clean finish that lingers tantalizingly. Acid well in balance. Serve chilled (about 45-50 degrees) in tulip-shaped glasses. Very fine value. All manner of light appetizers. grilled seafood; creamy rich light-textured cheeses, chicken croquetas, small grilled ribs brushed with a wine-based glaze, sushi. In Spain, Cava is more likely to be enjoyed after dinner, but certainly does perform well with food. Try it with not-too-sweet tiny fruit tarts or plain, thin vanilla cookies. Grapefields Distributor $18.00 2004 Luigi Righetti Valpolicella Classico Superiore Campolieti Ripasso Review Date - 10/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied red wine; medium purple red with violet touches. Aromas of spice and sour cherry, with distinctive sour cherry flavors with amble aromatic spice notes. Easy tannins, and long fruit-filled finish. Aromas seem faint at first, but given about 30 minutes, develop substantially, so decant ahead of serving at cool temperatures in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Valpolichella (val-pole-eee-CHEL-ah) is a Greek/Latin hybrid word meaning valley (val) of many (poli--the Greek part)--cellars (cella). Campolieti means "happy fields." Grape types: Corvina. Rondinella and Molinara, the three red mainstays for the region. "Ripasso" means the wine has had a second fermentation on the pressings of the Amarone grapes. Appetizers: stuffed mushrooms; salamis; p?tes and terrines; mushroom lasagna or mushroom-stuffed ravioli with butter and fresh herbs; turkey breast rolled around prosciutto and Fontina cheese and roasted; roast duck or Cornish hen with raisin bread stuffing; well-aged semi-soft cheeses; Loves dark chocolate. Leftovers: turkey mole poblano. National Distributing Company $16.00 2004 Poet's Leap Riesling Columbia Valley Review Date - 10/1/2007 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied off-dry white wine; medium yellow. Aromas of melon, pear, with a slight diesel aroma characteristic of Riesling with some age. Lush, clean flavors reprise the pear and melon character, but add a hint of ginger and the taste of honey to the finish. Sweetness is counterweighted by good acidity, leaving a mouthwatering finish. The palate is eager for the next sip, and flavors don't let up even as the wine warms in the glass. Some of the vineyards for these grapes are among the state's oldest. Serve moderately chilled (about 60F) in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Could keep another couple of years if well cellared. Cornmeal-dusted deep-fried oysters with Remoulade sauce; smoked salmon dill mousse, parchment booked sea scallops with Asian seasonings, roast turkey with bread/celery stuffing (no sage), turkey gravy, bok choy raw carrot salad with sesame oil and ginger; pear stuffed with Cambazola (a German blue cheese) or other mild creamy blue cheese. Leftovers: turkey salad with mild curry, currants and toasted almonds; turkey Country Captain over rice. Quality Wine & Spirits Distributor $22.00 2005 Daniel Bouland Vieilles Vignes Morgon Review Date - 10/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-full-bodied dry red wine; deep dark cherry red color. Lifted aromas of flowers (violets) and crushed ripe black and red fruits; fruit-focused but not heavy with typical carbonic maceration aromas. . Long finish, but shows a bit of heat in the end. Grape type: Gamay noir ? jus blancr. Beaujolais lies in southern Burgundy, and Morgon is one of the cru Beaujolais. Serve cool, which will temper the heat, at about 60F, in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Chicken liver mousse; peppered liver pate; rabbit and prunes terrine; roast duck with raisin bread stuffing or a dried cherry/dried cranberry stuffing, duck cooked with figs (great Catalan dish); roasted Cornish hen with fruited stuffing. Leftovers: turkey salad with dried cranberries and toasted walnuts or pecans. Unique World Wines $16.00 2006 Wyndham Estate Sparkling Shiraz South Eastern Australia Bin 555 Review Date - 10/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Full-bodied sparkling red wine; very deep dark purple. Rich berry aromas, just a hint of sweet tobacco; spicy dark and red berry flavors, especially red and black raspberry. Silky texture and soft tannins. Very subtle oak, showing touches of vanilla. Good mousse. Refreshing acidity. Serve at 45 degress like any sparkling wine in tall flutes. Very good value. Roast (esp. dark meat) turkey with raisin bread or sausage stuffing; roast duck with sausage stuffing; furred and feathered game, Asian-influenced dishes with duck or game fowl. Dark chocolate. Leftovers: turkey mole poblano. Get this: Aussies love these with scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, bacon and well buttered toast. And ya know? The mates are right!!! Make a little turkey hash with mushrooms to go with out of the leftovers. Should work. Atlanta Wholesale Wine/National Distributing Co. $18.00 2004 Vietti Barbera d'Asti Tre Vigne Review Date - 10/1/2007 Score - 95 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; bright medium deep purple red. Exquisite aromas of dark fruits with lots of spice notes; flavors capture the intensity of wild dark berries (blackberries, loganberries, boysenberries) and add the aromatic brown spice component. Silky tannins. Silky tannins lends structure to a fine juiciness. Good acidity keeps the palate refreshed. Warming and delicious. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65F, in generous tulip-shaped glasses. Outstanding with roast turkey (especially the dark meat) and sausage stuffing. Start with a rich terrine of pork and/or rabbit; prosciutto and figs; a mushroom lasagna. Also roast duck with raisin bread stuffing; pecan-crusted chicken. Leftovers: turkey dark meat reheated with chopped sun-dried tomatoes and prunes and mashed potatoes. National Distributing Co. $22.00 2006 Three Rivers Gewurztraminer Walla Walla Valley Late Harvest Biscuit Ridge Vineyard Review Date - 10/1/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied sweet white wine; medium golden straw. Aromas of spice and lichee nut, with a slight earthy note. The palate embraces all the classic characters for this varietal: spice, pear, lichee nut. A silky texture and good acidity provide balance, while the moderate alcohol will be a welcome change-of-pace after all that turkey. Picked at just 26 degrees BRIX, the grapes were allowed to stay on the vine and dehydrate. Residual sugar is 7.5%. Serve chilled, about 55 degrees in small tulip-shaped glasses. Very good value. As an aperitif with foie gras and sauteed pear or with chicken/duck liver mousse. As dessert with rich cheeses, such as German Cambazola, a creamy bleu, and saut?ed pear; not-too-sweet desserts, such as sweet potato or pumpkin pie; apple-almond tarts; lemon-ginger pound cake; pumpkin roulade.with ginger cream La Fayette Selections $15.00 2006 Bodegas Julian Chivite Navarra Rosado Gran Feudo Review Date - 10/1/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry ros? wine; medium deep bright reddish pink. Aromas of wild strawberry, candied apple and red raspberry lead to similar flavors but adding notes of aromatic brown spices. Delicious, distinctive fruit well balanced with acidity, moderate alcohol. Some complexity. Fresh, vibrant and clean, with a long finish. No barrel. Grape type: Garnacha tinta (Grenache noir). Moderately chilled, about 55F , in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Tapas, cured and dried meats, such as jam?n serrano, salamis, chorizo; ham croquetas; crab and red pepper mousse. Also crawfish on pasta; seafood Remoulade; crab Louie, paella; Cajun-style deep-fried turkey. Leftovers: turkey and chorizo tetrazzini Atlanta Wholesale Wine/National Distributing Co. $13.00 2004 Gundlach-Bundschu Gewurztraminer Sonoma Valley Rhinefarm Vineyards Review Date - 10/1/2007 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied very slightly off-dry white wine; medium pale straw. Classic varietally correct aromas of lichee nut, orange blossom and spice, with spicy ripe melon/pear/lichee nut flavors with hints of citrus (tangerine and kumquat). Alsace is the benchmark for this classic beauty. Delectable long finish. Silky texture. Serve moderately chilled, about 55F , in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Absolutely stunning with roast turkey, both white and dark meat, and a simple celery-onion stuffing, perhaps the best pairing of all. Should also do well with roast ham, in case you seek a non-feathered alternative. Other foods: butternut squash with butter, pinenuts and fresh herbs (not sage) or pumpkin-filled ravioli with Italian mustard fruits; squash- or crab-stuffed beggars purses with curry a?oli. Leftovers: turkey treated to any sort of Indian, Thai or Chinese adornment. Atlanta Wholesale Wine/National Distributing Co. $19.00 2006 Rosenblum Cellars Château La Paws Côte du Bone Blanc Review Date - 10/1/2007 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied very slightly off-dry white wine; medium reddish gold. Aromas of lush ripe fruits, among them melon, quince, honeysuckle and peach; the flavors capture the same fresh peach and pear and the lightest touch of lime zest and the taste of honey in the finish. Long, lush and clean. A most pleasing drop, well balanced. And able to deal well with food. Elegant and restrained, but not shy. Grape types: Viognier (32%), Chardonnay (32%), Sauvignon Blanc (31%), Roussanne (3%); Marsanne (2%). Mostly in stainless steel. Hefty alcohol (14.6%) but it really doesn't show. Serve moderately cool, about 55-60 F, in tulip-shaped white-wine glasses. Owner Kent Rosenblum is a veterinarian, thus the critter connection. Creamy chicken liver mousse, butternus squash- or pumpkin-stuffed ravioli with brown butter, toasted pine nuts and fresh herbs; deep-fried calamari with apricot-based dipping sauce and just a wee touch of spice; Cornish hens stuffed with crab meat (see recipe in True Grie, by the Atlanta Junior League), roast turkey breast with plain bread stuffing or cornbread dressing. Leftovers: turkey breast and mango salad, lightly curried turkey. Atlanta Wholesale Wine/National Distributing Company $14.00 2003 Trimbach Pinot Gris Alsace Reserve Review Date - 10/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium coppery gold color (showing its kinship with Pinot Noir). Aromas of ripe figs, a hint of peach and cantaloupe are followed by a rich, fresh fruit palate profile. Lovely richness yet fundamentally delicate and with a silky texture bordering on voluptuous. Plenty of fruit sweetness balanced by good acidity. Long, crisp finish. Serve just moderately chilled, about 60F, in medium-to-large tulip-shaped glasses. Creamy chicken liver mousses or foie gras; smoked salmon mousse; poached or baked salmon with beurre blanc; roast white meat turkey with natural gravy and a fruit-tinged partly whole-wheat stuffing; Cornish hens with a cous cous stuffing with pecans and dried fruits. Leftovers: turkey pot pie; curried turkey over rice pilaf; curried turkey salad. National Distributing Co. $18.00 2005 The Royal Tokaji Wine Company Furmint Review Date - 9/1/2007 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; Aromas of freshly cut hay, ripe apples, with flavors that capture ripe apples, yellow stone fruits, some lemon and rich minerals. Complex. Brisk but well-integrated acidity (essential if the wine is to go with food or last). Intense but balanced. A real pleasing sipper, also good with food. Grape type: Furmint, a yellowish green Hungarian grape, is the main ingredient of sweet Tokaji Aszu. No oak. Serve chilled, about 50-55 degrees, in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. All manner of Asian fare, shrimp fritters with a fruited dipping sauce; egg rolls; crab Rangoon (wonton wrappers stuffed with cream cheese and crab); egg foo yung; peanut chicken. Caribbean fare that's not too hot, such as coconut shrimp with mango or bitter orange dipping sauce or chutney. Fried chicken strips with honey mustard, lentil salad with orange and onion. Skip the oysters, though. $16.00 2006 Standing Stone Vineyards Gewurztraminer Finger Lakes Review Date - 9/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium/full-bodied very slightly off-dry (just .6 RS) white wine; pale straw. Classic Gewurztraminer floral (rose petal) aromas, with spice on spice--exotic and aromatic--notes. Flavor focus on lichee nut and pear. Restrained exuberance, superbly balanced; Alsace style, elegant and refined. Good acidity. Serve in tulip-shaped white wine glasses, at about 55 degrees. Located on Seneca Lake, Standing Stone has made Gewurztraminer its own since first planting it in 1994. Named for their long, narrow shapes, these lakes were pre-glacial streams; as later glacial ice retreated, it deposited material that dammed up valleys and entrapped water. The Finger Lakes moderate temperatures for the surrounding vineyards. Seneca and Cayuga are the two deepest, with bottoms actually below sea level. We also tasted a 1997 Pinnacle, the winery's blended red wine, still in good shape. Soft-shell crabs lightly dusted in curry powder scented flour and saut?ed in butter (a superb pairing!), any lightly curried dish; roast turkey; grilled apple chicken sausages with caramelized onions and whole-grain mustard; grilled pork steaks with sauteed apples and onions; assertive creamy cheeses (French Munster from Alsace) $19.00 2004 Malibu Family Wines Syrah "Semler" Review Date - 9/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Big, powerful, full-bodied dry red wine; deep dark purple red. Deep, concentrated, compelling aromas focused on dark fruits with gentle white pepper notes. A big mouthful of ripe dark fruits with firm but fruit-defined tannins. Rich and complex. Definitely a guy wine. Finish shows a little heat, but fruit is so zesty, you won't care. Designated in 2006, Saddle Rock-Malibu AVA lies north of Los Angeles, and holds some 2,100 acres. Serve in large tulip-shaped glasses at cool room temperature, about 65 degrees. Rich pates and terrines; rich, full-bodied meat stews; braised garlic-studded short ribs of beef cooked in Syrah, roast duck; leg of lamb with garlic and parsley, buffalo and other furred game; firm, steak with peppercorn cognac sauce or blue cheese sauce; aged cheeses, dark chocolate. Would love to try with mole poblano. $20.00 2006 Familia Schroeder Torrontes Patagonia Deseado Review Date - 9/1/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied sweet white sparkling wine; very pale yellow. Aromatic with touches of orange blossoms and other floral characters; flavors pick up orange zest and a suggestion of cardamom. Exotic, sweet but refreshing, very long finish. Sweet but balanced. Persistent bead. Grape type: Torrontes, Argentina's icon white wine grape. Patagonia is quickly opening up as a region for cool wine grapes, especially Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. But Torrontes does well, too. Charmat method, like Prosecco. Serve chilled, about 45-50 degrees, in tulip-shaped sparkling wine flutes. Outstanding with Asian fare that has a sweet-and-sour aspect to it, Chinese honey barbecue ribs; honey-glazed chicken, sesame chicken. With creamy desserts, custards, panna cotta with crushed fresh fruit; fruit tart with mascarpone cheese; zuppa inglese; trifle $17.00 2004 Alan McCorkindale Riesling Waipara Review Date - 9/1/2007 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied slightly sweet white wine; medium straw. Intense aromas showcase the classic diesel-y characters often associated with Riesling. Citrus peel and oils grace the aromas as well, especially tangerine and kumquat. A luscious mouthful of ripe fruits comes forth, with pear, melon and peach all playing melodies. Clean, brisk acidity leaves the palate refreshed. Delightful food wine. Serve moderately chilled, about 55 degrees, in tulip-shaped white-wine glasses. Home to intense Rieslings as well as other fine white wines, Waipara is located on the South Island in the so-called Alpine Pacific Triangle along the island's east coast. Perhaps 40 mi. north of Christchurch. If whale watching is on your list of must-dos, you'll find it handy on the nearby Kaikoura Coast. Crab and red pepper mousse; myriad Asian-influenced seafood, noodle and chicken dishes; chicken salad with mango, grilled chicken apple sausages, braised veal steak or pork steaks with caramelized onions and whole-grain mustard; grilled shrimp with mango salsa; beer-poached mild white fish (halibut or sea bass) with mustard-influenced Bechamel sauce, coq au Riesling (coq au vin made with Riesling) $22.00 2006 Eventide Cellar Winery Viognier Review Date - 9/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium pale yellow. Floral and white peach aromas are characteristic of the grape. Luscious white peach flavors keep up a virtual dance on the palate, abetted by good acidity, and provide a long, clean, dry finish. The finish closes with a slight butter note (not unpleasant, however!), perhaps suggesting grapefruit zest. Serve moderately chilled, about 50 degrees, in tulp-shaped white wine glasses. Agricultural with an emphasis on fruit growing, Wellington is slightly north of Paarl, itself just slightly north of Stellenbosch. Chicken salad with mango or other yellow stone fruits; Chinese shrimp fritters; coconut shrimp with mango or bitter orange dipping sauce; light curries with seafood or chicken, grilled chicken apple sausage with caramelized onions, fried chicken with honey mustard dipping sauce, sotly smoked chicken, seafood or chicken with exotic but not aggressive spices (not hot ones). $15.00 2006 Bodegas Castaco Monastrell Rosado Review Date - 9/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medim-bodied dry rose wine; medium pink-toned light red. Aromas capture a wide assortment of red fruits, from watermelon to strawberry and raspberry, with brown spice notes for accent. Delicious red fruit flavors with good acidity propel the flavors to a broad mid-palate experience and a clean, crisp, long, fruit-rich finish. Moderately chilled, about 55 degrees, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Yecla is located in the province of Murcia, east of Madrid and west of Cartagena, which is on the Mediterranean. Lots of golf resorts there. Grape type: Monastrell, a/k/a (in France) Mourvedre and (in California) Mataro, is the main red wine grape type in this region and in adjoining Jumilla and nearby Bullas. Very fine value. Buttermilk-fried chicken fingers with honey mustard dipping sauce (splendid!), smoked liverwurst; grilled wild salmon steak; ham salad, croquetas or grilled ham steak; grilled chicken apple sausages with spicy mustard; grilled pimento cheese sandwiches; croque Monsueir or Madame (grilled ham and cheese sandwiches); honey-glazed Chinese barbecued pork, paella. $12.00 2005 Oberbergen Pinot Noir Select Estate Bottled Review Date - 9/1/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium, translucent cherry red. Aromas of sweet and sour red cherries, cherry flavors mold the palate, which is full and lingering. Length is amazing, in fact. Flavors are straightforward, not complicated, and consistent with Pinot Noir. Tannins are elegant, and alcohol is a reasonable 13.5%. Serve at a cool temperature, about 65 degrees, in round Burgundy glasses. Pinot Noir is the grape of Germany's Spatburgunder. Baden is in southwest Germany, and nearly one-quarter of its vineyards are planted to Pinot Noir. Grilled duck breast with reduced red wine/blackberry vinegar sauce; sauteed chicken livers with country ham or speck and Madeira; roast pork tenderloin; mushroom ravioli with butter and cracked black pepper; roast chicken; feathered game; Cornish hen (roasted or grilled); pheasant. $24.00 2003 Merricks Creek Pinot Noir Mornington Peninsula "Close Planted" Review Date - 9/1/2007 Score - 95 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium translucent cherry. Intense varietal aromas tilt more to savory than to fleshy fruit, with a lovely earthy/animal notes. The nose knows instantly what the palate is in for! While there are plenty of stuff to the fruit profile, the savory character (no cherry fruit bomb this) and easy fruit tannins providing structure make it of the best Pinot Noirs I've seen in a long time. Very Burgundian, and I don't toss that around loosely. Outrageous good value, too, for the genre. Do not miss this one. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65 degrees, and get out the good glasses. The Mornington Peninsula is a glorious piece of landscape jutting out into the bay south of Melbourne. With its cool climate, it's perfect for this grape. Merricks Creek only does Pinot Noir. As the Aussies would say: It's a great "drop." Pates and terrines, mushroom rago?t or mushroom-filled ravioli with butter and cheese; chicken livers sauteed with country ham and Madeira; roast chicken, duck or Cornish game hen; feathered or furred game; boeuf Bourgignone; Peging duck or grilled duck breast with dark fruit glaze; grilled or roast lamb; mixed legume dishes; creamy mild blue cheeses. $35.00 2005 Printhie Wines Shiraz Viognier Orange Review Date - 9/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium deep cherry red. Aromas of currents mingled with white pepper notes mark the fragrance, which virtually leaps out of the glass. Deep berry flavors, with more white pepper accents, compose the palate. Lingering fruit finish comes up with a little heat, (despite reasonable alcohol at 13.3%) but rich foods ease that sensation, and this one loves to be with food. Silky texture and juicy tannins. Grape types are two Rhone varieties: Shiraz and Viognier. Blending a bit of Viognier (5%) into the Shiraz to lighten it and lift its aromas is a classic. technique. Serve moderately cool (also helps temper the alcohol) in large tulip-shaped glasses. Excellent value. Cool-climate, high-altitude Orange les west and slightly north of Sydney. Viticulture is on the slopes of Mount Canobolas, an extinct volcano, which has produced rich basalt-based soils. Roast pork loin; roast duck, Peking duck, or grilled duck breast with black currant vinegar/red wine reduction sauce; roast lamb; steak with blue cheese sauce; Chinese pepper steak; beef tataki, braised short ribs; grilled veal rib chopped stuffed with prosciutto and Fontina cheese, very dark chocolate. $16.00 2004 Lincoln Semillon Ice Wine Review Date - 9/1/2007 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Full-bodied sweet white wine; deep reddish gold. Aromas of dried and sweet peaches and apricots, with delectable sweet fruit flavors enhanced by honey and passion fruit characters. Touch of citrus. Unctuous texture. Acidity breaks the sweet grip on the palate, and provides a clean finish. 2004 was a good vintage for Gisborne, located on the East Coast of the North Island. Grape type: Semillon (70%). Alcohol is just 11%. Residual sugar is 13% Will drink well in its youth, cellar a few bottles to watch it evolve over the next 10 years. Serve in small tulip-shaped glasses, such as a Port glass, at very cool room temperatures, about 55 degrees. Angel food or pound cake with fresh fruits; panna cotta with crushed fresh fruits; pear or other fruit tart with a Mascarpone cheese base; creamy custards and creamy custard-based pies; zabaglione, zuppa inglese or trifle (or any of its variants) $24.00 2006 Chateau de Lancyre Coteaux du Languedoc Pic St.-Loup Rose Review Date - 9/1/2007 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry rose wine; lovely rose-pink color. Spicy, cinnamon hearts aromas; flavors knit brown spices, red fruits and glide easily into a long, crisp, dry finish. Mouthwatering. Lovely balance. Grapes: 60% Grenache; 40% Syrah. Methodology: saignee. Serve at about 50 degrees, or moderately cool, in tall, medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses, such as the Riedel rose glass. Surrounding the eponymous mountain peak, Pic Saint Loup embraces 12 communes north of Montpellier, where there is a fine school of enology. Rosette de Lyon or other cured spicy sausage; grilled shrimp with remoulade sauce; tomato stuffed with shrimp or crab salad; well-spiced smoked chicken; smoked pulled pork with spicy tomato-based barbecue sauce; deep fried calamari or other seafood with sweet tomato dipping sauce; sandwiches (also po' boys, tortas, gyros, wraps); tacos; Chinese honey barbecue ribs. And that ain't all. It's a long list. $15.00 2005 Laurent Mabileau St.-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil "Les Rouilleres" Review Date - 7/30/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-full-bodied dry red wine; inky deep purple red. Raspberry aromas, with the merest hint of lead pencil, burst forth from the glass, literally perfuming the surrounding air. A deep, rich core of black fruit and suggestion of brown spices fills the palate. Finish is a little alcoholic, so be sure to serve with richer foods and slightly cooled, and serve in a generous-bowled glass. Mostly Cabernet Franc, with some Cabernet Sauvignon likely blended with it. Bourgueil is an appellation in the western part of the Touraine district (department [like a state] of Indre-et-Loire, named for the two rivers whose intersection shapes it) of the Loire Valley. St.-Nicolas de Bourgueuil is a small village just west of Bourgueil; its wines are usually lighter than Bourgueil and mature more quickly, but this example offers substantial weight and extraction. Its silky texture (soft tannins) and rich fruit appeal for outdoor barbecues. Serve cool, about 65 degrees, in tulip-shaped glasses. New in market. Smoked liverwurst (Patak); wood-grilled lamb shoulder chops (give them just a bit of char) marinated in olive oil, red wine vinegar, garlic and herbs; grilled sausages, hanger steak, assorted grilled vegetables, Southern style barbecue (pulled or chopped with a mild tomato-based sauce), barbecued chicken with the same style sauce, even Chinese-style barbecued spareribs. $16.00 2005 Windshaker Ridge Verdelho Western Australia Swan District Review Date - 7/30/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; pale greenish gold. Effusive aromas of tropical fruits, especially passion fruit and star fruit (carambola), cherimoya and similar exotic fruits. Flavors are complex, with these characters plus honeydew melon, citrus and substantial minerality. Follow-through is excellent, with flavors lasting long on the palate. Silky texture, with good acidity, although a burst of acidity at the end suggests acid adjustment post fermentation. No oak. Very fine value. Verdelho is a grape making its presence felt now in Australia. Serve moderately chilled, about 60 degrees, to keep the fruit flavors dynamic. Use tall tulip-shaped glasses. Raw or roasted oysters with fresh lemon; deep-fried oysters or calamari with lemon aoli, fresh vegetable salads, such as pea with tarragon and Dijon mustard; Caesar salad with anchovies, chicken salad-stuffed avocado, creamy shrimp salad with lemongrass, mild curried salads (chicken or tofu with curry), seafood or chicken with Asian flavors., steamed crab legs or lobster with drawn lemon butter. $11.00 2005 Domaine des Trois Valets Beaujolais Review Date - 7/30/2007 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium-deep purple red. Aromas of fresh red cherries, dark fruits emerge shortly; delicious berry flavors shape the palate. Rich core of sweet dark fruits, with good acidity and a long, clean finish. Soft tannins. Classic Beaujolais, but lacks that distinctive bubble gum character that make consumers disavow the genre. Grape: Gamay Noir jus blanc. Serve moderately chilled, about 60 degrees, in tulip-shaped glasses to capture the lovely fruit. Grilled hanger steak with mushroom sauce and grilled vegetables; grilled, roasted or fried chicken; Cajun deep-fried or roasted turkey; grilled sausages with bacon-laced baked beans, roast pork tenderloin, Santa Maria-style barbecue (tritip with dry spiced rub), mild cheeses. $13.00 2002 Weingut Erich Braun & Sohn Huxelrebe & Ortega Auslese Review Date - 7/30/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied sweet white dessert wine; slightly reddish golden color. Sweet aromatic scent focused on golden fruits--apricot and peach--with flavors that capture the same fruits. Silky textured, viscous and long finished. Sweet but not cloying, despite low acidity. Grapes: 67% Huxelrebe, first cultivated in the 1950s, and 43% Ortega, a crossing of Muller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe, named for Spanish philosopher Jose Ortega y Gasset. Also grown also in British Columbia and to some extent in eastern Canada. Both are known for low acidity, but these example seems to be well balanced. Perhaps it was acid adjusted. Alc.10%. Extraordinary value. Serve in small tulip-shaped glasses at about 55 degrees. Fresh peaches or poached peaches and vanilla creme anglaise; peach fried pie; not-too-sweet cookie; shortbread; langues de chat; vanilla cookie. Creamy blue cheeses: sauteed pears with Cambozola. Also as an aperitif with foie gras, foie gras terrines and mousses. $18.00 2005 Morgan Cotes du Crow's Monterey Review Date - 7/30/2007 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; deep purple red. Intense aromas of blackberries with hints of rhubarb and strawberry. Palate picks up the same characters and, framed by soft tannins, continues through a long, delectable finish. Touches of vanilla throughout, but not overwhelming. Gentle use of French oak, just 20% new. Just plain delicious. Grapes: 50-50 Grenache and Syrah from San Lucas appellation in southern Monterey. At cooler temperature, about 60 degrees, the fruit really pops. Use a tall medium-bowl tulip-shaped glass. This is seriously tasty work. Country-style salamis, grilled sausages, rough-textured terrines, roast duck, grilled lamb, grilled Cornish hens brushed with blackberry jam thinned with some of the wine; Asian barbecued pork spareribs, classic Southern pulled pork or ribs with tomato-based slightly spicy (but not wicked hot) sauce or vinegar-tomato-pepper sauce, bacon-baked beans. $18.00 2005 Bodegas Frutos Villar Vina Morejona Review Date - 7/30/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; pale gold. Very delicate, indeed somewhat shy, aromas focused on tropical fruit (suggestion of pineapple) and wet hay; flavors are pleasant but simple a the outset. Suddenly, a decisive mineral note emerges. Finish is long, lively and mineral-rich. Good acidity. Clean, crisp conclusion. Grape type: Verdejo. Blended in are Viura and a bit of Palomino. Serve moderately chilled, about 55-60 degrees, as delicate flavors are easily dimmed by excess cold. Use a tulip-shaped glass. Very light appetizers: Smoked salmon mousse with dill (excellent); fried chicken with (or without) honey mustard, cocktail-sized potatoes stuffed with sour cream, smoked salmon and dill; Spanish chicken croquetas, fried fish with tartar sauce, crab cakes or deep-fried calamari with lemon aoli $10.00 2006 Paul Jaboulet Aine Cotes du Rhone Rose Parallele 45 Review Date - 7/30/2007 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry rose wine; lovely salmon pink. Captivating aromas of fresh red fruits, from cherries to a hint of pomegranate; flavors drill into red fruits and pick up complexity from spice notes. Acidity, minerality and tannins all contribute to raising this wine above the level most people expect in something pink. Saignee method--that is free-run juice is pumped off red grapes. Aged briefly in temperature-controlled tanks. It's real wine, Folks. Grapes: 50% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 10% Syrah. Moderately chilled, about 55-60 degrees, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Phenomenal value. Salamis and cured meats, grilled ham steak, roll-up sandwiches with ham and turkey, grilled vegetables, composed salads, wraps, burritos with chicken and black beans, fajitas, barbecue, barbecued chicken, grilled chicken or grilled shrimp with salsa Romesco, escalivada or any eggplant dish with tomato, caponata, ratatouille. $19.00 2005 Clos Lachance Chardonnay California Hummingbird Series "Glittering-Throated Emerald" (unoaked) Review Date - 7/30/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Light/medium-bodied dry white wine; pale golden straw. Tropical fruit aromas begin with grapefruit then slide into pineapple and banana as the wine opens. Crisp citrus flavors follow on the palate, with citrus-tinged acidity that leaves a mouthwatering and very long finish. Well-integrated pineapple and banana flavors are the hallmark from beginning to end. Grape: Chardonnay. Serve chilled, about 55 degrees, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. New in Atlanta. Cracked cold crab legs with garlic mayonnaise, creamy composed salads (Thai lemongrass shrimp, creamy mild curried chicken or tofu salad with chopped tart apples), cold oysters with lemon (raw or roasted), fried oysters, bacon-wrapped grilled shrimp, grilled scallops with mustard mayonnaise, wood-grilled mild fish (snapper, wild striped bass) with mango relish or salsa. $15.00 2006 El Coto de Rioja Rioja Rosado Review Date - 7/30/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry rose wine; translucent reddish pink. Aromas of strawberry and red raspberry; with fresh red fruit flavors that capture a hint of candied apple, spice and the suggestion of cinnamon hearts. Skin and juice maceration for 48 hours, then stainless steel fermentation at cold temperatures. Grapes: 50% Tempranillo, 50% Garnacha, grown in Rioja Alavesa. Serve moderately chilled, about 55 degrees, in tulip-shaped glasses. Pimento cheese, "Bolito" (ham, pickle, from Publix), smoked salmon mousse, antipasti, composed salads, shellfish or crab cakes with Remoulade sauce (not too spicy), fried or barbecued chicken, smoked meats, grilled sausages, grilled shrimp in the shell, roll-up sandwiches and wraps, grilled ham steak, bacon-laced baked beans. $9.00 2006 Dow Fine White Porto Review Date - 7/30/2007 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Full-bodied somewhat sweet white wine; medium golden color. Intense aromas of fresh golden fruits, with hints of apricots; palate shows a complex nutty character. Finish is long and clean. Grapes: Malvasia Fina and Gouveio (a/k/a Verdelho). Fermented at moderately cool temperatures. Some aged in wood, so it acquires that golden color and nuttiness, and the rest is not in wood so it retains fresh fruit characters. The blend is downright lovely, and nearly a miracle at this price. Serve chilled in small glasses or, as in Portugal, on the rocks with tonic water (a splash!) and lime wedges. Most refreshing! Aperitif: salted almonds; cheese straws or cheese biscuits; grilled cocktail-sized sausages; green olives, liver pate on unsalted crackers. Cooking tip: Sautee pork medallions or chicken breasts, de-glaze the pan with some of the wine, add cream and reduce, and dinner's ready. $11.00 2004 Broman Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Review Date - 7/30/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry (about .2 RS) white wine; very pale straw. Aromas blend honeydew melon and lemon (winemaker says Meyer lemon especially, but that's a California specific variety). Lemongrass and honeydew fill the palate, which is lingering, clean and crisp. Luscious, creamy texture (there's that .2 RS). No barrel aging--all stainless steel. And no malolactic fermentation, so wine remains crisp. Very good food wine. Serve moderately cool, about 55-60 degrees, to maximize flavors, and use tall tulip-shaped glasses. Green olives, goat cheese with green olives and fresh herbs, raw oysters with lemon or roasted oysters with lemon butter (Apalachacolas are still tasty at this time of year); bacon-wrapped grilled scallops with mustard mayonnaise; chicken salad with tarragon and almonds, pea salad with scallions and green bell pepper; ensaladilla rusa (assorted vegetables, tiny shrimp, mayonnaise). $16.00 2005 Mosby Pinot Grigio Santa Barbara County Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Light-medium-bodied dry white wine; pale straw. Gentle aromas of peach, pear, apple and minerals; well-integrated white fruit flavors with a touch of vanilla in the close. Silky mouthfeel. Finish is dry, crisp and elegant, with a lively citrus note in the close. Very well crafted wine, with acidity, minerality, fruit in synch. Mosby is completely devoted to producing wines from Italian varietals. Crab cake Benedict with mustard Hollandaise sauce, grilled bacon-wrapped scallops with honey mustard sauce, cold Asian noodle dishes, chicken salad with yellow fruits, baked mild fish with mustard B?chamel; squash-stuffed ravioli with brown butter; chicken fettuccine, pork, chicken or seafood dishes with mild exotic seasonings. $14.00 2000 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Alsace Cuvee des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 94 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry white wine; medium golden straw. Aromas of rose petal, lychee nut and spice, classic for this varietal, with lychee nut and spice flavors, also classical. Made only in certain years, the wine is rich yet elegant, its seeming sweetness entirely derived from fruit. Round and viscous, it fairly blooms in the mouth. Voluptuous, with spice and lychee nuts continue through the close. Winery is based in Ribeauville, Alsace, since 1626. Save for the most elegant purposes: as an aperitif with foie gras, creamy goose or chicken liver mousse, roasted or smoked pork loin with fruit chutney or whole-grain mustard; fried pork chops with sauteed red onion, mild curried chicken salad with green bell peppers, mild Indian dishes with chicken or fish; very rich, ripe assertive cheeses, such as creamy 2004 Pierre Sparr Riesling Alsace Reserve Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium gold. Suggestion of diesel, a classic Riesling character, in the aromas, with quince, pear and exotic fruit flavors on the palate. Good acidity lends structure, and the finish is long and consistent with the palate, but just a mite hot. Mouthfeel is silky and round, suggesting the presence of a bit of residual sugar, perhaps .04, but the finish is dry. Roast turkey breast, roast chicken, coq au Riesling (just like coq au vin but made with Riesling), lightly curried dishes, baked or oven-fried crumbed fish with tartar sauce; creamy chicken or seafood dishes, choucroute garni with whole grain mustard, sp?zle with cream and ham. $18.00 2005 Henschke Pinot Gris Australia Little Hampton Innes Vineyard Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry white wine; medium straw with a very slight coppery cast.(as Pinot Gris can do). Aromas of white fruits with slight note of wet, warm stone. Flavors advance distinctive richness on top of white fruit characters. Clearly follows Alsace models, with its rich, concentrated, intense fruit character. Complex and rewarding, with lively ripe, exuberant, mostly stone fruit character. Fleshy texture. Not a keeper, so drink now. Baked, poached or steamed wild salmon (with Hollandaise sauce); grilled bacon-wrapped scallops with honey-mustard sauce; crab cakes; roast pork tenderloin with pear chutney; Asian fare, especially seafood or chicken with slightly exotic seasonings; chicken pot pie. $30.00 2005 Alsace Willm Gewurztraminer Alsace Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium gold. Classic true-to-varietal aromas of quince, lichee nut , and flowers. Flavors kick in with more exotic characters, including lichee nut and fresh quince, spice and Asian pear apple. Balanced and with a broad palate, the wine finishes at great length with clean fruit characters that remain true to the type. Excellent value in the genre. Sauerkraut cooked in wine with a variety of sausages (Alsace choucrute garnie), exotically flavored foods, such as anything with a Thai curry (if not too hot), or Indian curry (sometimes cooled with raita), rich, aged cheeses such as authentic Alsace Munster, pork steaks with creamy whole grain mustard sauce; roast turkey. $15.00 2005 Domaine Albert Boxler Alsace Edelzwicker Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry blended white wine; medium greenish straw. Aromas of lychee nut and rose petal make it clear that Gew?rztraminer is part of the blend. The flavors hit on target with spice and lychee nut. Balance is key, with good acidity pushing the frout through to a long, satisfying finish. Albert Boxler is a 300-year-old family winery in Niedermorschwihr, now run by Jean Boxler, a graduate of the viticulture program at the University of Montpellier. Jean made his first vintage in 1995. "Edelzwicker" like "Gentil," is a term that denotes a blend of several varieties. Roast turkey breast with lemon and thyme (outstanding!), roast pork loin, sp?tzle with ham and cream, baked Vidalia onion stuffed with sweet potato, chicken thighs baked with caramelized onions, gently seasoned Indian food, especially such dishes as a cold curried creamy chicken soup. Curried chicken salad, poached chicken breast sliced across greens with a curried mayonnaise drizzle. $18.00 2004 Albert Mann Pinot Blanc Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry white wine; medium golden straw. Aromas of intense pear, touch of mango and minerals. Very sweet (fruit sweet) fleshy fruit informs the palate, emphasizing pear, mango. Good acidity refreshes the palate. Delightful peachiness in mid palate. Moderate alcohol: 12.5%. Calamari with lemon a?oli; grilled or sauteed paillard of wild salmon with lemon Hollandaise; grilled or saut?ed scallops; mild delicate smoked white fish, roasted turkey breast; crab cakes with lemon Hollandaise, salt-and-pepper shrimp; coq au vin blanc (made with some of this wine); chicken pot pie. $20.00 2005 Dopff & Irion Riesling Alsace Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; pale greenish straw. Delicate aromas of Meyer lemon, fragrant citrus blossoms, the merest suggestion of diesel (classic in Riesling), flavors capture citrus and pear, and good acidity bolsters the mid-palate, giving it breadth. Long, clean, crisp finish. Delicate, satisfying, crisp, dry flavors. Very food useful wine, and perfect for summer. All manner of appetizers: tiny crab cakes, grilled scallops or shrimp, mildly flavored creamy Thai shrimp salad with lemongrass; lightly curried chicken salad, Asian dim sum, shrimp-filled shumai with Ponzu dipping sauce. Also baked mild fish (halibut, tilapia, flounder, sole) stuffed with crab, mildly seasoned seafood sausages with beurre blanc. Keep it away from anything with dill or fennel. $16.00 2005 Heron Wines Pinot Noir Vin de Pays d’OC Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium deep dark cherry red. Aromas of red and dark cherries with exuberant spice notes. The palate shows relatively simple cherry fruit flavors true to the grape type, with good acidity, and moderate alcohol. Elegant, clean, simple and pure. Vines are relatively young, just 15 years old, and are planted in a zone of Limoux, France, influenced by the distant Atlantic Ocean. Very good value. Smooth-textured p?tes; mild salamis and other cured meats, mushroom rago?t, braised veal with mushrooms, grilled lean pork tenderloin, Asian barbecued beef and Chinese honey barbecued pork, roast duck or Cornish game hen, chicken thighs braised with Vidalia onions, grilled chicken breast with sun-dried tomato/caper relish, barbecued Asian steaks, mild aged cheeses, dark chocolate. 1990 Domaine Saint Gregory / Monte Volpe Vineyards Pinot Meunier Mendocino Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Medium- full-bodied dry red wine; medium garnet red. Fruit-rich aromas grape a bowlful of red cherries and spice, with an initial earthy note that seems to fade as the wine opens. Dark cherry flavors are the follow-up, again with spice notes, a hint of vanilla from toasted oak, and a touch of intriguing bitterness at the end.. Elegant, soft tannins and clean finished with a long fruit-filled wrap-up. Balanced and silky textured. Another wine from Greg Graziano. Pinot Meunier is a native of Burgundy that serves as one of the three mainstays of Champagne. White hairs on the back of the leaf look like flour, hence its name, which means "miller" in French. Smooth pates or chicken liver mousse; beef and mushroom pot pie; moussaka; roast duck and pork loin (some dark or dried fruit-based embellishments, sauces or chutneys would add a good dimension), roast Cornish hen brushed with a melted dark fruit jam glaze; ground lamb casserole with aromatic brown spices and a bechamel-tomato topping. $14.00 2005 Etude Pinot Noir Carneros Rose Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry rose wine; medium salmon pink. All the red fruits play in the aromas, from watermelon to strawberries to red raspberries. Flavors reach deeply into the red and black berry characters, with a touch of aromatic brown spice. Long, clean, crisp finish. Terrific acidity completes the profile. Aromas and flavors develop in the glass, about 15-20 minutes after the wine is poured. Consider decanting. Barrel fermented four months in used barrels. So many dishes: vegetable quesadillas or fajitas; roast pork tenderloin; smoked meats with medium-bodied tomato-based barbecue sauce. $20.00 2005 Lamont Wines Pinot Noir Central Otago Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; medium, translucent dark cherry red. Aromas typical of a Central Otago Pinot Noir, with an emphasis on dried herbs rather than cherry fruit. Raspberries, a touch of wild strawberry, and cherries do, however, inform the palate. The rich fruit character is buoyed by supple tannins and good acidity. Classy package. The winery's 30 acres were planted in 2000, and include Pinot Gris and Riesling. If this is the quality that they can get off these young fines, the future holds much promise. Potential keeper 5-6 years. Creamy, smooth-textured liver pates (especially yummy), peppered grilled tuna steaks, roasted or grilled pork tenderloin, roast chicken or braised chicken with caramelized Vidalia onions, warm lamb salad, roasted Cornish hen and duck, beef pot pie, dark chocolate. $38.00 2005 Italo Cescon Pinot Grigio Grave del Friuli Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 92 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium pale straw. Classic Pinot Grigio aromas of yellow stone fruit and minerals, with flavors that expand that profile and add a fleshy dimension in mid palate. Minerality lends texture and complexity to the clean fruit flavors. Good acidity (typical of Pinot Grigio from northern Italy). Wine seems a bit dull initially, but opens and develops delectable fruit flavors within about 15 minutes in the glass. Be careful not to serve too cold. Blue-cheese-stuffed green olives, crab mousse, grilled garlic shrimp, shellfish with mild r?moulade sauce, fish and seafood with mild Thai seasonings (lemongrass), calamari with lemon aoli, baked crab-stuffed flounder or other mild fish, soft-shell crabs either sauteed or fried, crab cakes, poached or baked salmon with lemon Hollandaise or sabayon, chicken baked with caramelized onions, roast breast of turkey. $14.00 2005 Scherer Pinot Blanc Alsace Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium straw. Aromas of pear and minerals, with flavors that pick up on those notes and add a crisp tart apple character at the end. This wine is all about minerality, and what sweetness is there is derived from fruit. Just a lovely piece of work, and an excellent value. Fleshy fruit character, with attractive crispness in the finish, made more intriguing by an emerging note of citrus peel. Herbed goat cheese, baked white fish, classic Alsatian tarte ? l oignion; stone-ground grits with scallops, shrimp and tasso ham; pork tenderloin with apple chutney; any dish with caramelized onions and (including (but not limited to) flounder, cod, halibut filet, skate wing, chicken tarragon. $15.00 2005 J.-B. Adam Pinot Blanc Alsace Reserve Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied slightly off-dry white wine; medium straw. Aromas and flavors of honey-caressed pear and Asian pear apple, with stony minerlity to add complexity and good acidity. Rich, supple mouthfeel.with a silky texture. Lingering finish, with a decided crisp apple charter at the end. Wine opens substantially after being allowed to breathe briefly. Jean-Baptiste Adam founded the winery in 1614. Roasted turkey breast, grilled scallops with honey mustard or R?moulade sauce, anything with caramelized onions, such as classic Alsatian onion-bacon tart, chicken thighs braised with caramelized onions, chicken tarragon or chicken tarragon salad, Vidalia onions stuffed with sweet potato pur?e and baked, crab cakes with saffron aioli . $14.00 2004 Joseph Riefle & Fils Pinot Gris Alsace Classique Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Full-bodied off-dry white wine; medium gold. Aromas of sweet apricot and other yellow stone fruits, with lush fruit flavors and good acidity building a fine tasting experience. Texture is round and silky, a reflection of the residual sugar. But the acid backbone that runs through it keeps it from becoming cloying. Dating to the early 17th century, Riefle is another long-established Alsace vintner. Lightly spicy creamy Thai shrimp dishes with lemongrass, mild curries, e.g., poached chicken breast with a lightly curried mayonnaise traced across it, roast turkey breast, creamy dishes, foie gras or creamy liver mousses and pates. $19.00 2005 Monte Volpe Pinot Grigio Mendocino Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium straw. Aromas of peach blossom and peach, minerals as it opens, with flavors that continue this style of PG through to the long, tasty and crisp close. A touch of the taste of honey joins the final flavors. This New World Pinot Grigio shares the minerality of an Old World PG, but has more voluptuous mouth feel, thanks partly to its being barrel fermented. "Monte Volpe" means "Mountain of the Fox" in Italian, and owner Greg Graziano acknowledges his heritage with a variety of Italian grape types, including Arneis. Crab cakes with Hollandaise sauce, grilled scallops with honey-mustard mayonnaise; garlic shrimp, baked or grilled mild fish, Chinese-American dishes, such as sesame chicken or sweet-and-sour dishes, noodle dishes; pork, seafood or chicken dishes with exotic spices (but not hot). $15.00 2002 Charles Schleret Riesling Alsace Herrenweg Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; medium gold. Classic Riesling aromas focused on pear and quince, with flavors that follow the same path. Unified from stem to stern, the aromas set up what the palate finds and continue through the very long finish to the crisp, dry close. Somewhat steely texture with a slight, but pleasing, butter note, as from citrus zest, in the close. Singular stuff. Grilled scallops with mild Remoulade sauce or tartar sauce; choucroute garni with whole-grain mustard, fish baked with cream or pan-poached in beer then served with a mustard B?chamel sauce; coq au Riesling (coq au vin made with Riesling); roast turkey breast, light appetizers if served as an aperitif. $22.00 2002 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru Kitterle Review Date - 6/1/2007 Score - 96 Tasting Note: Full-bodied sweet white wine; medium-deep golden straw. Rich aromas of sweet ripe white fruits, with flavors that repeat these characters and keep them fresh and vibrant through the broad mid -palate and finish. Rich, sweet but balanced with good acidity, and voluptuous in texture. Residual sugar is about 5%. Nice to get this with a little age on it, deepening the flavors. The Kitterle vineyard was first commented on in the early 17th century. As an aperitif with foie gras or creamy liver mousses; blue cheese souffle. Creamy exotically flavored (such as with lemongrass) and very slightly spicy Asian seafood or chicken dishes; pork or chicken with caramelized onions and a touch of whole-grain mustard. As dessert with fruit tarts, creamy blue cheese or simply not-too-sweet cookie. $40.00 2004 Parri Estate Pinot Noir Southern Fleurieu Peninsula Review Date - 5/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Light/medium-bodied dry red wine; translucent medium dark cherry color. Aromas suggest brown aromatic spices, dark cherry, a hint of composted earthiness. Flavors pick up the spice factor, but don't overplay it, leaving a savory sensation. First impression seems a bit understated, but blooms in the glass, so be patient with it. Supple tannins. Long, elegant, savory finish. Likely just settled on the lees, not filtered, some sediment, but decant for formal serving (be sure to stand upright for a day or so before decanting.) The Fleurieu Peninsula runs south of Adelaide and thus enjoys constant maritime influences, which cool the climate. Creamy-liver pate, mildly smoked light meats, smoked liverwurst, grilled salmon or tuna, salmon sashimi, some sushi (eel rolls), light meats, braised chicken thighs with caramelized onions, chicken or veal saltimbocca, mushroom risotto or mushroom-stuffed ravioli, ravioli filled with veal and sage, grilled sweetbreads, well-seasoned ground beef pie, hangar steak with Gorgonzola cream 2004 Chalone Pinot Noir Chalone Vineyard Review Date - 5/1/2007 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; translucent medium dark ruby red. Somewhat subdued aromas hint at dark cherries, while elegant flavors pull up sensations of dark cherry and a touch of raspberry followed by good fruit tannins and a sensation of alcohol. Firm but supple tannins lend structure and weight to the mouthfeel. A classic of the California style but with tempered fruit, so it's not a cherry bombe. Creamy liver pates and mousses, sauteed foie gras, rabbit or chicken marchand de vin sauce, coq au vin made with a good but less expensive Pinot Noir, well-seasoned with aromatic spices ground beef pie, fairly firm aged cheeses (but not sharp or too ripe), creamy blue cheeses, hanger steak with bleu cheese drizzle, furred or feathered game, roast duck. Very nice with dark chocolate. $35.00 2005 Dancing Coyote Wines Albarino Clarksburg Review Date - 4/1/2007 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry white wine; very pale straw. Aromas of fresh yellow stone fruits, spring flowers, sweet talcum powder (a hint). Flavors suggest peach, a touch of honey (its taste, not sweetness). Lovely, round texture with good acidity, some chalky minerality. Very nicely done, especially considering the low cost. Serve moderately cool, in tulip-shaped glasses of moderate size. Captures the flavors of Albarino perfectly. Moderately chilled, about 50 degrees, in tulip-shaped white wine glasses. Potato salad with fresh herbs; dill-accented shrimp salad; baked tilapia , flounder, sole or other mild fish with crab meat, grilled bacon- or pancetta-wrapped scallops with Remoulade sauce; herbed turkey breast, roasted; curried chicken or shrimp salad; collard greens with garlic and tomato. Winery suggests with spicy Asian and Indian cuisine (but hold the heat), mild white cheeses and fruit salads. 2005 Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Western Cape Review Date - 4/1/2007 Score - 88 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; black-red color. Aromatic with lots of berry character, and notes of spice, bacon and oak. Smooth, smoky bacon and spice flavors overlay mellow blackberry and black cherry fruit. Finishes with rich cassis (black currant) notes. Silky mouthfeel. Good structure. Soft tannins. Grapes: Syrah (65%), Cinsault (19%), Mourvedre (11%)and Viognier (5%). Example of blended reds from South Africa but many cost a lot more than this one. Drink now. Winery founded in 1776. Name references pioneers who set traps for wolves 250 years ago, but none was every found in the valley. Serve at cool room temperature (about 60-65 degrees) in large tulip-shaped glasses. P?tes and teerrines, Patak's smoked liverwurst, salamis and similar cured meats, grilled red meata, roast duck, pork tenderloin brushed with a dark fruit glaze, roasted or grilled Cornish hen, root vegetable stew with pancetta or country ham. $15.00 2004 Dona Paula Cabernet Sauvignon Lujan de Cuyo Review Date - 4/1/2007 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep purple red. A mix of sensations: Aromas suggest dark berries, but still are closed, even after substantial exposure to air. Rich berry fruit, however, delights the palate, but hefty acidity, perhaps a bit too much, isn't real well integrated. Good mid palate, but finish is a bit abrupt. Silky texture, supple tannins. Cool room temperature is best, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Rich foods: Smoked liverwurst and other smoked and cured meats, osette de Lyon and similar saucisson or salami; empanadas; grilled steak; cold roast beef with garlic mayonnaise; braised short ribs; Chinese barbecue; game (especially buffalo), blue-veined cheeses, dark chocolate (very nice). $15.00 2003 Swartland Serengeti Shiraz Swartland Review Date - 4/1/2007 Score - 91 Tasting Note: Medium-/full-bodied dry red wine; medium deep ruby red. Very appealing fruit-filled aromas, focused on red a blend of red and black fruits, with a hint of white pepper; flavors gather these same characters and meld them perfectly. Silky texture and tannins. All elements well integrated for a seamless presentation. Long, fruit-packed finish. Balanced. Have tasted many times over the years, and am impressed with the consistency. Excellent value. Serve moderately cool, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Antipasti: salamis; cured and dried meats; smoked liverwurst and other smoked meats; peppered chicken liver pate; ravioli stuffed with feta and black olives and sauced with melted butter, olive oil and cracked black pepper; legume-based stews, such as cassoulet (lovely); grilled sausages; grilled meats, veal chop stuffed with prosciutto and Fontina cheese, aged semi-firm cheeses, such as Spanish romero (encased in rosemary). Wish I had some kudu to go with this one. 2003 Chateau Guillotin Puisseguin-St. Emilion Review Date - 3/1/2007 Score - 87 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep dark purple red. Aromatic red raspberry; Very pleasant rich red and dark fruits; mid palate a bit shallow, although finish lasts well, but isn't especially deep. Tannins are supple. Quite good value. Decant about an hour ahead of serving at 60 degrees in tall, tulip-shaped glasses. Vineyards established 1730. Size: 5.5 ha/ 13.6 acres; vines 25-30 years old. Grape types: Merlot (75%); Cabernet Sauvignon (25%); Cabernet Franc (5%). Vinified in stainless steel, then concrete, and finally oak. Puisseguin-St. Emilion is one of the sattellite appellations of St.-Emilion. Well-flavored foods: Peppered liver pate; peppered tuna; salamies and cured meats, such as Rosette de Lyon; slow-cooked braised pork or veal; ravioli with pancetta, salami and ham, olive oil and Parmesan cheese; rabbit or other furred game; baked Vidalia onions stuffed with sweet potatoes and/or greens; well-flavored cheeses. $20.00 2003 Tofanelli Family Vineyard Charbono Napa Valley Review Date - 3/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Full-bodied, very big dry red wine; inky opaque dark. Aromas of chocolate (malted milk balls), exotic spices (white pepper/cardamom) and dark berries, highly extracted. Exuberant, voluptuous, expressive dark berry fruit, with soft tannins but a good bit of alcohol. Sweet, intense fruit; firm fruit-derived tannins; some heat from alcohol. Lingering, fruit-rich finish. Not filtered perhaps? Organic vineyards. Mostly 2-4-year-old French oak barrels. Dry farmed, and it shows in the intensity, 26 acres, head pruned.. Grape type: Charbono, which ampilography has shown to be the nearly vanished Corbeau from the French Alps, and not Dolcetto as was once thought. Serve at cool temperatures to emphasize the fruit and get a handle on the alcohol, and use generous-bowled tulip-shaped glasses. Well-seasoned dishes with a creamy texture: creamy liver mousse; roast beef with French-style or homemade mayonnaise; tournedos Rossini (filet with foie gras or a slice of liver pate) and demi-glace sauce; braised veal with caramelized onions and mashed potatoes; meat dishes with mild curry. $35.00 2001 Xavier Clua Mil.llennium Terra Alta Review Date - 3/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; very inky dark purple. Aromas still a bit closed, but air it out enough, and here come blackberry, black raspberry and spice, which also fill out the palate. Still tight. Will open further with additional bottle age. Elegant, very "Old World" style. Cellared properly, should last another 20 years. Grape types: Garnatxa Negre (65%), Cabernet.Sauvignon (20%), Syrah (15%), Ull de Llebre a/k/a Tempranillo & Pinot Noir (combined). Vines range in age from 10 to 40 years. Spent 12 months in French oak barrels (50% new, 50% second year), and in the bottle thereafter until release. Decant several hours ahead of serving at cool room temperatures in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Creamy, rich cheeses, mild curried lamb with currants, lamb and duck dishes, pork with a dark fruit chutney or relish, braised veal with caramelized onions, legume dishes, stews and ragouts, game, dark chocolate. $45.00 2005 Beyerskloof Pinotage Stellenbosch Review Date - 3/1/2007 Score - 93 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry (very small RS) red wine; deep inky purple red. Aromas of blackberry and black currant, with touch of fruitcake. Sweet jam-rich black fruits. Lingering fruit-filled finish. Satisfying, with very silky tannins. Very slight typical Pinotage medicinal note on the aromas, but not on the finish. (Some Pinotage enthusiasts lament losing the old style, but I don't.) Grape: Pinotage--a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault. Excellent example of the type, and terrific value. Serve at very cool room temperature, about 60-65 degrees. Winery says with curry, and that's likely, because it loves spice and bold flavors. Smoked liverwurst (Patak), salamis and well-seasoned cured deli meats, Texas-style barbecued beef ribs with a mild medium-bodied tomato-based barbecue sauce (awesome, really), braised breast of veal with caramelized onions and mashed potatoes, grilled mildly spicy sausages; roast duck with aromatic spices or Chinese five spice seasoning, grilled steak with brie or blue-cheese drizzle, rich cheeses, oxtails cooked with Pinotage (a South African classic). Possibly peppered tuna? $13.00 2004 Apaltagua Carmenere Colchagua Valley Review Date - 3/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; deep almost black purple red. Initial aromas focus on dark, rich berries, plums and spice, although a little green bell pepper emerges as the wine opens in the glass. Rich, dark berry fruits start with spice but acquire a bit of bell pepper as the wine opens. Supple tannins well integrated with the fruit, clean long finish, and nice acidity. Pretty work. The herbaceousness, characteristic of the grape (Carmenere), is pretty well integrated in this example. Carmenere nearly disappeared from Bordeaux after phylloxera in the 19th century. Its new home is Chile, although more than 6,000 acres of it found in northern Italy once were thought to be Cabernet Franc. Chile thought its Carmenere was Merlot, a confusion cleared up in 1994 by a French ampilographer. Great value. Serve at cool room temperature, about 65 degrees. Beef-stuffed empanadas; meat-filled raviolis with olive oil and fresh herbs, grilled steak with chimichurri sauce (ok, so the sauce is from Argentina, but the combo is really good), grilled lamb steak, grilled well-seasoned sausages, salamis and other cured well-seasoned meats, Latin American-style sandwiches, such as Mexican tortas, well-seasoned legume dishes. $11.00 2005 Artezin Zinfandel California Review Date - 3/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Medium/full-bodied dry red wine; medium ruby red. Aromas and flavors of red raspberries and black pepper, with good acidity and supple, fruit-centered tannins. Balanced, elegant, delicious. Firm but fruit-derived tannins. Not heavily alcoholic, thus capable of good food pairings. Very elegant style. Grapes: 100% Zinfandel from Mendocino (39%); Amador (36%); Sonoma (25%). Just released January 2007. Cool room temperature (about 65 degrees) in medium-sized tulip-shaped glasses. Riedel makes a glass specifically for Zinfandel. My kinda Zin, 'cuz you can sip it and sip it and sip it, and it goes with food. Spicy dishes: Barbecue with mild tomato-based spicy sauce; barbecued beef ribs; chicken, smoked chicken or pork ribs; smoked liverwurst (Patak); grilled ham steak; salamis; pastas with meats or garlic and cream, mild blue cheese, dark chocolate (so good it nearly hurts!). $18.00 2003 Aleph Malbec Mendoza Review Date - 3/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; very dark, inky black opaque color. Aromas of caramel with a slight earthy note that eventually disappears, to be replaced by the scent of sweet cured tobacco. On the palate distinctive black fruits, core flavors recalling fruitcake and plum pudding. Silky tannins and well-integrated oak. Fruit-filled long finish, with a slight caramel note at the end, perhaps from American oak. Malbec is a Bordeaux variety also planted widely in Cahors (east of Bordeaux); its second home is Argentina. Cool room temperature, about 65 degrees, in tall tulip-shaped glasses. Good value. Beef-filled empanadas, salamis and other cured meats, raviolis stuffed with ground sausage, beef and pancetta, sauced with olive oil and fresh herbs; braised veal breast with caramelized onions and mashed potatoes; Texas-style smoked beef ribs with a mild tomato-based sauce; steak with chimichurri sauce, grilled lam, roast duck, dark chocolate (awesome!) $20.00 2004 Vina Robles Winery Signature Paso Robles Review Date - 3/1/2007 Score - 90 Tasting Note: Full-bodied dry red wine; inky dark, nearly opaque ruby red. Initially tight, with little coming forward in aromas, but in about 30 minutes, it blooms, with voluptuous dark fruit aromas with hints of sweet cured tobacco. Fleshy tannins frame dark fruit flavors, all aimed at a clean, crisp, fruit-filled conclusion that lingers long on the palate. Alcohol is substantial (above 14%), but doesn't add any heat to this big fruit. Grape types: Petit Verdot (72%) (which accounts for the deep color) and Syrah (28%). Decant about 30 minutes ahead of serving, then erve cool (about 60 degrees) in large tulip-shaped glasses. Should cellar well for another half dozen years or so. Braised rather than roasted, grilled or smoked meats. Braised pork with Asian seasonings; braised lamb with aromatic spices; breast of veal with caramelized onions and mashed potatoes, au jus. Also black olives, creamy garlicky pasta, Cajun turkey, mousse of liver with aspic (rather than a coarser-textured terrine); mild blue cheeses or other rich-flavored creamy cheeses. $30.00 2002 Morgenster Estate Stellenbosch Summer House Red Review Date - 3/1/2007 Score - 89 Tasting Note: Medium-bodied dry red wine; garnet red. Aromas still tight, but show evolved, subtle red fruits, also picked up on the palate. Seamless transition from aromas to flavors. Tannins are firm, but fruit-sourced, and should continue to ease with time. A slight bitterness hits the finish just as it's about to close, but it's not unpleasant. Notes of brown aromatic spices,and gentle toasty oak all play their roles. Grapes: Merlot (53%); Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), Cabernet Franc (13%; Petit Verdot (7%). Serve cool, about 60 degrees, in large tulip-shaped glasses. Originally part of Willem Adriaan van der Stel's Vergelegen, Morgenster is one of the oldest vineyard properties in the Cape. Creamy pates, not-too-salty cured meats (Rosette de Lyon is perfect); duck ham, grilled hanger steak with blue cheese drizzle (particularly good), roast duck, chicken or Cornish hen; roast stuffed pork loin, bean dishes with or without meat, feathered game, creamy blue cheeses, such as Fourme d'Ambert. $20.00